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TRANSCRIPT
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Vegetable GardeningSheriden Hansen
Horticulture Assistant Professor
Davis County Extension
Utah State University
Vegetable Considerations
• Annuals (seed to seed in 1 year)• Beans• Radish• Corn
• Biennials (1st year vegetative – 2nd year flower)• Onion• Carrot• Celery
• Perennials (Grow each year from the same root system)• Asparagus• Artichoke• Rhubarb
Cool Season Crops
• Peas
• Onions
• Beets
• Salad Crops
Lettuce Spinach
Swiss Chard Kale
Cabbage Kohlrabi
Broccoli Cauliflower
Radishes Carrots
Warm Season Crops
• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Corn
• Potatoes
• Beans
• Squash
• Melons
• Cucumbers
Choosing a Garden Site
• Full sun• 6-8 hours
• Soil • Well-draining
• Most vegetables root in the top 6-8”
• Good amount of organic matter
• Add 2-3” of good compost each year
• Access to quality water
Planning the Garden
• Measure your space and sketch it out on paper
• If starting seeds, pay attention to timing for sowing
• Tall crops placed on the north side of the garden to prevent shading
• Perennials placed where they won’t be disturbed
• Plan the garden for spring, summer, and fall • Interplanting and succession planting can maximize garden
space
• Plan appropriate space for plants to become full sized
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Row Planting
• Done to facilitate furrow watering
• Allows for equipment between rows
• Not always the most attractive or efficient for the home garden
• Works well for large spaces
Hill Planting
• Provides space for • Melons
• Squash
• Cucumbers
• Large plants
Alternative Planting
• Square-Foot Gardening
• Raised beds
• Interplanting in flower beds
Soil Preparation
• Good soil is built by adding organic matter and continually building the soil
• Soil Tests• Determine texture
• Organic matter levels
• Fertilizer needs
• Done BEFORE you plant
• Soil testing go to: • http://usual.usu.edu/index.html
Tilling
• Never till soil that is too wet
• Hand squeeze test• Crumbles easily, can be tilled
• Good time to incorporate organic matter
Fertilizers
• N-P-K• Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium
• Nitrogen – greening, pushes vegetative growth
• Phosphorus – supports fruit and flower formation
• Potassium – supports root growth
• Based on USU Soil Analysis• Complete Fertilizer 10-10-10, 15-7-7• Incomplete Fertilizer
• 21-0-0 (Ammonium Sulfate)• 43-0-0 (Urea)
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Applying Fertilizers• Broadcast – evenly distributed on
surface before planting• Weeds get fed too
• Banding – applied in a narrow band at the time of seeding or planting (or even later)
• Side dressing – supplemental fertilizer applied during the season• Plants that require high nitrogen• Plant deficiencies
Fertilizer Requirements For Vegetables• Low use: 1-2 lbs. N/1,000 ft2
• 1/4 cup 21-0-0 per 10 foot row• Peas and beans
• Moderate Use: 2-3 lbs. N/1,000 ft2
• 1/3 cup 21-0-0 per 10 foot row• Beets, carrots, radishes, lettuce, melons, squash, tomatoes,
peppers, cucumbers, broccoli, cauliflower
• High Use: 4-6 lbs N/1,000 ft2
• ½ cup 21-0-0 per 10 foot row• Corn, onion, potatoes
***Split the total N requirement into a few applications*** Never apply more than 1 ½ lbs. of N/1,000 ft2 at one time
Fertilizing in General• At Time of Seeding
• Make a 3-inch deep trench• ¼ to ½ cup fertilizer per 10 ft. row• Band fertilizer 2-inches deeper and 2-inches to the
side
• Using Transplants• 2-3 Tbsp fertilizer per plant• Place fertilizer 4 to 6-inches deeper and 2 to 3-
inches to the side
• Hill Planting• ¼ cup 3 to 4-inches deep and to the side
**Rates are based on 16-16-16 or 21-0-0**
Organic Material and Manures
• Good way to add nutrients to the soil
• Takes time for organic material to break down
• Green manures (cover crops)• Kill the cover crop before tilling under
• Decomposition of the matter provides nutrients
• Caution should be taken when incorporating animal manures into the soil. • Should be done with soil testing
• Can create weed problems
• “Hot” fertilizer
Planting Vegetables
From Seed• Seeding depth
• (3x rule)
• Seeding dates vary• Cool crops 55-75⁰F
• Warm crops 70-90⁰F
• Soil crusting• Add organic matter
Difficult to Establish Seeds
• Slow germination • Onions, beets, carrots
• Cannot allow soil to dry or crust
• Can improve success by soaking before sowing
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Planting Vegetables
From Transplants
• Plant Size• Dark green color• 50% rule• 4-6 leaflets
• Water Management• Young plants = frequent
watering• Frequency depends on
soil type and temperature
Planting Depth
• Depth varies with the variety• Tomatoes and plants that develop
adventitious roots on stems can be planted deeper• Can plant up to 10-inches deep
• Plant slightly deeper than the root ball to keep plants from drying out
Transplant Advantages
• Advantages to transplants• Better establishment
• Earlier plant growth and harvest
• More intensive production • Easier to space for intense production
and rotation
• Better uniformity
• Higher yields
Transplant Disadvantages
• Increased labor and time caring for plants
• Higher cost
• Delays in establishment, growth, and yield if plants struggle to establish
Difficult to Transplant Plants
• Root crops• Carrots
• Radish
• Parsnips
• Beets
• Turnips
• Potatoes
• Damages tap roots or deforms the plant
When to Plant in the Garden
• Cool Season Crops (55-75⁰F)• As soon as you can work the soil (mid-March to May)
• Warm Season Crops (70-90⁰F)• After the danger of frost is gone (May)
• General rule for frost dates for the Wasatch Front:• May 10th (Mother’s Day Weekend) – Last frost
• October 5th – First frost
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Irrigation
• Water needs depend on:• The type of vegetable
• The stage of growth
• Plant size
• The application method
• Irrigation frequency depends on:• Available water in the root zone
• Water use rate (Tied to temp.)
• Different Methods: • Furrow, sprinkler, drip
Raised Beds
• Raised Beds• Modify soil
• Improve drainage
• Easy to amend soils
• Soil should be amended with vermiculite, peat moss, perlite, compost to create a loose, fluffy, humus rich soil
Raised Beds
• Beds should be 3 to 4-feet wide • Work from sides of beds to reduce compaction
• Beds should be 8-inches deep
• Use decay resistant material for structure
• Pros:• Look good• Easy to keep clean • Vary the height to suit needs
• Cons:• Added expense
Vertical Gardening
• Uses trellises, nets, strings, cages, or poles to support plants
• Increases production in small gardens by maximizing space
• Some plants will twine onto supports where others need to be tied
• Works well for: Vining cucumbers Peas Tomatoes
Melons Pole beans Gourds
Vertical Gardening
• Vertical planting captures sun well
• Can also cast shadows• Be aware how close plants are on the North side• Plant vertical plants on the north side of the garden
• Strong materials should be used:
• Plants are more exposed when vertical• May need to be watered more frequently• Check often
Fencing material Lattice String
Cattle panels Rebar Bamboo
Succession Planting
• Schedule plantings• Early vegetable is harvested
• New crop is planted right after harvest
• Peas followed by corn
• Early cabbage followed by fall radishes or lettuce
• Keeps weeds from growing
• Maximizes space
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Container Gardening
• Great for small spaces or poor soils
• Need at least 8 hours of sun
• Works well with root and leaf crops
• Plants designed specifically for containers:• Tomatoes: Patio Princess, Mexican Midget,
Bushsteak, Sweetheart of the Patio, Marglobe, Baxter’s Bush Cherry, Sweet Baby Girl, Balcony, Stupice, Tumbling Tom Yellow
Container Gardening
• Larger plants need larger pots
• Large plants can be staked in pots (tomatoes)
• Many colorful plants that can contribute to the look of your patio (Bright Lights Chard, Lettuces, Beets, Lettuces, Herbs)
Watering
• Watering is critical for container gardening• Soil volume is small
• May require daily or twice daily watering
• Temperature
• Wind
• Clay pots allow for further water evaporation from the sides of the pot
• BUT… container plants are susceptible to root rot if overwatered
• Grouping containers can help shade and slow soil drying
• Automatic drip irrigation system
Fertilizing
• Artificial soil mixes have no nutrients in them
• Water-soluble or slow-release fertilizer
• Fertilize as often as needed
• Be careful not to over-fertilize
Weather
• Container plants are mobile
• Can move in extreme weather (hail, wind, freezes)
• Dolly is helpful
Season Extenders
• Hot Caps/Cloches
• Walls of water
• Row covers
• Mulches
• Floating Row Covers
• Low Tunnels
• Cold Frames/Hot Beds
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Wall of Water• Use water to absorb heat
throughout the day
• Temperature drops at night
• Water releases heat to keep plants warmer than surrounding environment
• Also help with wind
Row Covers
• Shelter plants from winds and cold air
• Keeps temperatures warmer by a few degrees
• Different materials to give different results
• Trap solar radiation and moisture
• Clear or opaque plastic covered tunnels
• Fiberglass or polyester panels bent over rows
Cold Frames and Hot Beds
• Can use old windows, heavy plastic, or plexi-glass
• Warm the soil, trap moisture and alter humidity
• Vent, check temperature on warm days
• Hot beds incorporate a layer of hot decomposing manure under the soil
Fall Vegetable Gardening
• Second or late planting of many vegetables for a fall harvest • Many cool season crops• Spinach • Turnips• Carrots• Broccoli• Cabbage• Cauliflower• Cole crops
• Can withstand cooler temperatures and often taste better when ripened in cool conditions
Fall Vegetable Gardening
• Count back from the last frost date –Wasatch Front is October 5th
• Determine number of days needed to harvest and add two weeks• Cool weather will slow plant development
• Choose early maturing varieties
• Use season extension as necessary
Pest Management
• Several approaches:• Cultural
• Mechanical
• Biological
• Chemical
• Best control information is found at: www.utahpests.usu.edu
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Cultural Controls
• Healthy plants
• Altering planting dates
• Early harvest
• Crop rotation
• Resistant varieties • Tomatoes
Resistant Tomatoes
• V Verticillium Wilt
• F Fusarium Wilt
• N Nematodes
• A Alternaria
• T Tobacco Mosaic Virus
• St Stemphylium (Gray leaf spot)
• TSWV Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
Mechanical Controls
• Removal of diseased plants
• Cleaning up beds – removing material that promotes disease
• Hand removal of insects and eggs
• Barriers
• Traps
• Screens
• Row covers
Biological Control
• Beneficial insects control pests • Vidalia beetle and cottony cushion
scale
• Ladybeetles and aphids
• Beneficial nematodes and grubs
• Parasitic wasps and other predatory insects
• Poultry can help control insects
Chemical Controls
• Should be used carefully
• Always follow the label
• If possible use less toxic solutions• Insecticidal soaps
Weed Control
• Exclusion/Suppression• Mulches
• Mechanical control is best in a home garden setting• Hoeing • Pulling
• As a general rule• Avoid pre-emergent herbicides in the garden• 2,4-D has a 2-3 week residual
• Volatilization (vaporizes) at 85-degrees• Glyphosate is inert when it hits the soil
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One year’s weed, seven years seed!
The Families “Simplified”
Salad Crops
Fruiting Crops
Legume Crops
Grass Crops
Salad Crops
• Lettuce, chard, spinach, kale, cabbage• Cool season:
• Hot weather makes them bitter
• “Bolting”
• Seed: shallow
• Transplant: 4-6 leaf
• Shallow rooted• Cannot handle water stress
• Harvest anytime
butter red oak leaf
cos or romaine
mixes
speckled
heirlooms
Salad “Toppers”
• Cauliflower, broccoli, radishes, cabbage, carrots• Cool season:
• Avoid hot weather
• Seed: shallow
• Better to transplant (cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower)
• Shallow rooted• Cannot handle water stress
• Harvest when head is full size
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Onions & Garlic
• Cool season:• Good growth up to 90 degrees
• Seed: • Onion – shallow• Garlic – 3” deep (plant in fall) (5-9” apart)
• Transplant onions 6-8 leaves• Onions are shallow rooted (don’t drought
stress)• Harvest anytime
• Garlic – bottom few leaves start to turn yellow• Cure in shady, dry, and protected location
• Seed onions store better than sets
Hardneck: RocambolePurple stripesPorcelainAsiatic/Turban
Softneck:ArtichokeSilverskinCreole (but can bolt like a
hardneck)
Bunching onions
Shallots
Fruiting Crops
• Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant• Warm season:
• Avoid COLD weather (below 50 degrees)
• Seed or transplants• Sensitive to irregular watering
(tomatoes)• Cracked shoulder • Blossom end rot
• Split set when HOT (+95 degrees)• Fertilizer
• None after flower clusters form (July)
• Harvest when mature green to ripe
Blossom End Rot
• Calcium deficiency
• Calcium is immobile, will see symptoms on NEW growth
• Even watering will usually fix the problem, can add calcium nitrate
• Can occur with other vegetables
Tomato Terms
• Determinate varieties bear heavily once – usually paste tomatoes
• Indeterminate varieties bear continually – all purpose
• Too much nitrogen will force vegetative growth at the expense of the fruit.
HybridsBig Beef, Early Girl, Beefmaster, San Vincente, Better Bush, Big Brandy, Patio Princess, Celebrity, Celebration, etc.
HeirloomsUsually a variety that is 50-years-old or older. Some are hybridized.
Mortgage Lifter, Brandywine, Green Zebra, Oxheart, Pink
German, Costuloto Genovese, San Marzano, etc. (Find in catalogs)
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Potatoes
• Cool season:• Avoid VERY COLD weather
• Seed potatoes• Large seed pieces (2 eyes)• Cut and allow to dry overnight
• Uniform water• Vegetative before July/tuber formation
after• “Hill” in the plant as it grows• NO fertilizer after July
• Harvest the plant after it starts to flower• “New” potatoes
Vine Crops
• Squash, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins• Warm season
• Avoid COLD weather planting
• Always use transplants
• Overwatering:• Cracks – pithy poor flavor
• Flavor is best when slightly drought stressed (melons and squash)
• Hot weather = bitter cucumbers
• Harvesting tips for melons…
cucamelon
Legume Crops
• Peas and Beans • Cool and Warm season
• PEAS:• Soak seeds before planting
• BEANS: • Bush or vine types
• Water is crucial when flowering
• Harvest pods when young OR leave pods to dry the seeds
• Fix their own nitrogen, require little to no fertilizer
Grass Crops
• Sweet Corn• WARM season • Always plant from seed• Kernel quality related to type
• su – sweet corn• se – sugar enhanced• sh2 – super sweet • Heirloom varieties
• Less sweet gene is dominant• Cross-pollination with field corn
• Water is critical at pollination• Don’t plant a single row
• Ear mature (15-25 days from silk)• Fertilizer: High nitrogen user
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Perennials - Asparagus
• Plant early – Watch your location• Trenches 8 inches deep: Cover with 2” soil
(repeat, until level)• 1-2 years to get plants established
• Water: Doesn’t like it wet• 1st after harvest • 1 x per month after
• Fertilizer: After harvest
• Mow fern in spring; mulch for weeds
• Harvest: Year 2 3 4 5
Weeks 2 4 6 8
Perennials - Rhubarb
• Ancient plant• 1-2 years to get plants established• Transplants / Divisions:
• Cover crown with 1-2” soil• Early spring
• Water: depends on soil• Don’t like it wet
• Fertilizer: After harvestHarvest: none the first year• 2 weeks the second year• 3 years on (only remove 1/3 of the stalks)
• Leaves are poisonous• Divide every 5 years
A Word About Rotation…
• Don’t try rotating perennials• Reduces pest and disease build-up• Most rotations are in 3-4 year increments• Rotate vegetables according to families…
Salad CropsFruit Crops
Legume CropsGrass Crops
Garden Rotation
Fruit Crop Grass Crop Legume Crop Salad CropTomatoes Corn Peas LettucePeppers Beans RadishesPotatoes Carrots
Squash / Melons Onions
More information:
garden.usu.edu
Questions?