vated christchurch & canterbury - new zealand · produced by fairfax traveller ... attractions,...
TRANSCRIPT
MARCH 8, 2014
IN ASSOCIATION WITH TOURISM NEW ZEALAND AND CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY TOURISM
Christchurch & Canterbury
Be
ca
pti
va
ted
Every day a diff erent storyUrban attractionsCanterbury journeysOutdoor adventuresNature experiencesIndulgence & rejuvenationFood & wine delights
Akaroa
Greymouth
Picton
CANTERBURY
Christchurch
KaikouraHanmer Springs
MountCook
BANKS PENINSULA
Oamaru
Four Peaks
Arthur’s Pass
NEW ZEALAND
CANTERBURY
START HERE
SOUTHERN ALPS
MOUNT COOK
TASMAN GLACIER
BANKS PENINSULA
CHRISTCHURCH
AKAROA
THE CANTERBURY REGION YOUR GUIDE
KAIKOURA
HANMER SPRINGS
3
URBAN 4
JOURNEYS 6
OUTDOORS 8
NATURE 10
INDULGENCE 12
FOOD & WINE 14
Produced by Fairfax Traveller [email protected]
National Travel Editor Anthony Dennis
National Travel Projects Editor Lynne Whiley
Writer Mark Chipperfield
Designer Emma Duval
Maps Paul Johnston; Monique Westermann
Production editor Patricia Sheahan
Advertising Loren Marlin (02) 9282 1153,
Published by Fairfax Media, ABN 35 009 896 146 in
association with Tourism New Zealand and Christchurch
& Canterbury Tourism. Christchurch and Canterbury is
free with The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age and
should not be sold separately. The prices and currency
conversions in this magazine were correct at the time of
going to press.
Cover: Awe-inspiring
alpine landscapes
give a leisurely
cycling trip in
the spectacular
Mackenzie district
extra wow factor.
Co
nte
nts
MAKE IT HAPPEN
GETTING THERE
Christchurch is a three-hour
fl ight from Australia’s east
coast. Book with: Air New
Zealand airnewzealand.com.
au; Jetstar jetstar.com; Qantas
qantas.com.au; Virgin Australia
virginaustralia.com;
Emirates emirates.com/au
GETTING AROUND
Car hire is at Christchurch
International Airport.
Budget budget.co.nz
Avis avis.co.nz
WHILE THERE
Christchurch i-SITE Visitor
Centre has a free booking service
for accommodation, activities
and transport throughout
Christchurch, Canterbury and
New Zealand. The centre is in
the Botanic Gardens, Rolleston
Avenue (next to the Canterbury
Museum), open seven days from
8.30am to 7pm.
A Cathedral Square i-SITE Kiosk is
also open seven days, 9.30am to
5pm (until 31 March 2014).
See christchurchnz.com
of Christchurch, set among more of Canterbury’s jaw-dropping landscapes, host cellar doors, farmers’ markets, cafes, restaurants and accommodation for every budget. Kaikoura, north of Christchurch, is renowned for its eco-tourism, whale-watching and hospitality. To the north-west, Hanmer Springs combines rejuvenating spa stays with outdoor adventure. In the centre of Canterbury, Aoraki Mount Cook-Mackenzie’s palette includes mountain biking, four-wheel-drive tours, scenic fl ights, kayaking and walks, while Lake Tekapo, at the foot of the Southern Alps, is home to the Mount John Observatory and the world’s largest Dark Sky Reserve.
Akaroa Harbour, south of Christchurch, is where visitors come to swim with small, rare Hector’s dolphins while the nearby Banks Pensinsula hosts keen kayakers.
Christchurch is a three-hour fl ight from Australia’s east coast and the Canterbury region’s towns and villages are ready-made for day trips from the city. However, the landscapes and experiences of Canterbury are too bold and pretty to rush past. Best you linger, then.
LYNNE WHILEY, NATIONAL TRAVEL PROJECTS EDITOR
Traveller’s editors and senior writers are frequent visitors to New Zealand’s Canterbury region and its gateway city,
Christchurch. The region’s wealth of new experiences, backed by its natural attractions, is a key drawcard for independent travellers keen to explore and relax in equal measure.
From its creative shipping container shops to new bars, cafes and restaurants, Christchurch is brimming with energy. More hotels and many of the city’s iconic attractions are open, urban spaces are undergoing rejuvenation and a diverse calendar of events showcasing Canterbury life, culture and arts is attracting travellers from around the world.
We have had the pleasure of seeing Christchurch and Canterbury expand its abundance of urban, outdoor and adventure travel experiences, while its immersive havens are providing travellers with pristine places to rest and rejuvenate.
The stunning Waipara Valley north of Christchurch is home to award-winning pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc vineyards. The newly completed Waipara Valley Vineyard Trail is a superb way for cyclists and walkers as well as drivers to taste their way around north Canterbury.
Delicious and diverse food and wine trails to the west and south
Christchurch and Canterbury, transformed
4
Dynamic Christ ch urch
has new hotels, cafes, bars and
rest aurants.
A“pop-up” city with energy and verve where fi ve-star dining, new hotels and a welcoming sensibility are not in short
supply, Christchurch is re-inventing and rebuilding itself as a forward-thinking, vibrant place in which to live and visit.
Rated No. 2 on The New York Times’ 52 Places to Go in 2014, the city that greets visitors today is an energetic place that is open for business and packed with creativity.
It’s an optimistic place to visit and the Christchurch community has embraced change with a spirit of adventure and stoicism in the wake of the 2010-2011 earthquakes.
“We lost our business and 16 years of hard work in a mere 60 seconds,” says Sam Crofskey, the owner of C1 Espresso, one of the city’s liveliest cafes.
“We just had to dust ourselves down and get on with it – there was no alternative.”
Crofskey salvaged what he could and moved into a beautiful 19th century building nearby. Now it’s hard to get a lunchtime table at C1 Espresso, which has a small cinema and rooftop garden in addition to great food.
The earthquakes tested the spirit of Christchurch; its people were forced to embrace radical ideas and solutions. The city’s Re:START Mall, which uses a collection of shipping containers, is an enterprising mix of shops, cafes and outdoor performance space.
Each January, Christchurch hosts the World Buskers Festival and Re:START buzzes with street players, jugglers and clowns. Year-round, a youthful energy pulses through the place and some locals would like to see the temporary container hub remain a permanent part of the cityscape.
As it turns out, the CBD has become a backdrop for creativity of all types in which art galleries, whisky bars, cafes and bistros seem to sprout.
On Madras Street is the funky new brew pub CBD Bar & Pizzeria, a place with gleaming surfaces, handsome beer pumps and a wood-fi red oven.
The new Rydges Latimer Christchurch is a stylish 138-room hotel near the city’s iconic Cardboard Cathedral, itself a soaring, light-fi lled structure designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban.
The Copthorne Hotel Commodore and The George Hotel have undergone major refurbishments and some 800 new rooms have been opened in the past few years.
“New Zealand has long been a fertile place for bright, ambitious people,” says Crofskey, “and the earthquakes have accelerated that process.”
The Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority (CERA) says the new-look Christchurch that is emerging will have “anchor projects”, such as a performing arts precinct and an impressive $NZ260 million ($240 million) sports centre, and will become a showcase for high-tech urban design.
“Christchurch is now the most studied small city in the world. We’re
From top: The Cardboard
Cathedral, Christchurch’s
transitional cathedral
– the city’s original
centre of worship was
substantially damaged
in the 2010-2011
earthquakes; Giant
puppets at Free Theatre’s
Canterbury Tales, the
major event
at 2013’s Festa, or
Festival of Transitional
Architecture, held
in Christchurch
each October.
ART IN THE
STREETS
Urb
an
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Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 5
PUNTING ON AVON RIVER
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Christchurch
like a glorious laboratory,” says CERA spokesman Baden Ewart. “The engineering solutions we’re coming up with are truly inspirational. In the future people will visit Christchurch to see these incredible new buildings.”
Echoes of the older Christchurch remain, among them its genteel municipal gardens, university quadrangle, suburban villas and key heritage buildings. The city’s much-loved trams have been spruced up and returned to service – they now loop the city centre – and people are again jogging in manicured parks and punting on the Avon River.
Long known for its live music culture, Christchurch is attracting an increasing number of performance artists, painters, sculptors and a wealth of creative minds from around the world. The Canterbury region’s arts calendar has never seemed more packed.
Such an infl ux of youth and talent fuels the city’s restaurant and bar scene. Pop-up bars are in shipping containers and disused shops alike, while smart new eateries such as the St Asaph Street Kitchen, Harlequin Public House, Tequila Mockingbird and Bloody Mary’s (part of the new Rydges hotel) are putting down permanent roots.
While few people underestimate the challenges facing this resilient part of New Zealand, there is every sign that the city reborn is a place of enormous creativity, focus and hope. This is Canterbury’s precious window into the future. Come and see.
From top: Artwork
in Cathedral Square;
Re:START Mall,
a collection of
shipping containers
repurposed for
retail; Performers at
the World Buskers
Festival, held in
Christchurch in
January; Punting on
the Avon River which
meanders through
Christchurch Botanic
Gardens; Historic
trams take visitors on
city tours.
BE
VAN
TR
IEB
ELS
CITY TRAM
ART IN CATHEDRAL SQUARE
RE:START MALL
Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 5
MAKE IT HAPPEN
STAYING THERE
1. COPTHORNE HOTEL
COMMODORE
This 157-room hotel is an oasis
of calm surrounded by gardens.
Facilities include an indoor pool,
gym, sauna and tennis court.
From NZ$320 a night.
See commodore.net.nz.
2. RYDGES LATIMER
CHRISTCHURCH
The city’s newest hotel has
excellent in-house dining at
Bloody Mary’s and is within
walking distance of city
attractions. Rooms from $NZ249
a night. See rydges.co.nz
WHILE THERE
3. RE:START MALL
Book stores, cafes, boutiques
and banks are just some of the
businesses operating from this
collection of funky shipping
containers. See restart.org.nz
4. C1 ESPRESSO
A rebuilt food and coff ee icon with
a devoted following, the cafe is
housed in a heritage building on
High Street. Open daily 7am to
10pm. See c1espresso.co.nz
5. CARDBOARD CATHEDRAL
Made from cardboard tubes,
timber, steel and concrete, the
cathedral has panels from the
original stained glass window
of Christchurch’s cathedral. See
cardboardcathedral.org.nz
GETTING AROUND
6. BY TRAM
Red-and-cream trams loop the
inner city on a route that takes in
Cathedral Square, the Arts Centre
and Canterbury Museum. Tickets
$NZ10 adult. Children under 15
travel free. See tram.co.nz
7. BY SEGWAY
Helmet and instruction given
for two-hour tours at 10.30am or
1.30pm. See urbanwheels.co.nz
8. BY BICYCLE
See a part of central Christchurch
that has been “off -limits” for more
than two-years on a two-hour
Christchurch Rebuild Bike Tour.
See chchbiketours.co.nz
9. BY TOUR BUS
The city’s past and future are
discussed as part of Rebuild
Tours’ informative journeys.
See redbus.co.nz
KEY EVENTEach October
Festa – Festival of Transitional Architecture – celebrates Christchurch’s
burgeoning cityscape with performance and
other events. festa.org.nz
WORLD BUSKERS FESTIVAL
MARCH 8, 2014 Christchurch & Canterbury6
Jo
urn
ey
sTake to the road, the rails or bicycl e track s for natu re’s fi nest show on earth.
The prospect of a 223-kilometre journey traversing the beautiful Southern Alps from the comfort of a custom-designed train
carriage with panoramic viewing windows and ample space to stretch your legs is delicious.
The TranzAlpine, which links Christchurch with Greymouth on the wild West Coast, has a wealth of scenery. Soon after leaving the placid Canterbury Plains – we stop to pick up freshly baked muffi ns in Springfi eld – the robust train forges steep ravines, crosses fast-fl owing glacial rivers and glides through dense beech forests. Each train has an open-sided viewing carriage which brings these sights and smells closer.
With its constantly changing landscapes, compact size, snow-capped mountains and quaint stations, the Canterbury region is a marvel for rail lovers. Passengers can hop on and off en route or spend a few days exploring the West Coast – a popular option – before completing the return trip across the Alps to Christchurch.
KiwiRail also operates the Coastal Pacifi c service between Picton and
Christchurch. As the name suggests, this journey showcases dramatic coastal scenery, with stopovers possible in the Marlborough Sounds, the whale-watching centre of Kaikoura and two of the country’s famous wine districts, Marlborough and Waipara. In summer, the Coastal Pacifi c service connects with the Interislander ferry from Wellington.
Exploring the Canterbury region by car is an equally captivating way to enjoy constantly changing vistas, and the absence of motorways means you tend to linger rather than rush.
From Christchurch, the drive north to Kaikoura provides a gentle introduction to Canterbury, crossing the pastures of the Canterbury Plains and the wine-rich Waipara region before tackling rugged coastline between Oaro and the Kaikoura Peninsula.
The 183-kilometre drive can easily be completed in about two and a half hours, but most travellers stop at cafes in Cheviot and Domett or enjoy a relaxed vineyard lunch in the Waipara Valley, home to 80 cool-climate wineries.
Afterwards, venture inland to Hanmer Springs, an alpine spa resort
From top: Views from
the Banks Peninsula,
which has an abundance
of tracks for keen
walkers; Vineyard in the
Waipara Valley.
BANKS PENINSULA
WAIPARA
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Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 7
Akaroa
Greymouth
Picton
CANTERBURY
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Christchurch
Kaikoura
MountCook
Oamaru
Four Peaks
which dates to the Victorian era, for its thermal baths and spa retreats. Visitors often spend at least one night here before rejoining the inland route to Kaikoura via Mount Lyford.
The shorter route, a 75-kilometre drive from Christchurch to the Francophile coastal settlement of Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula, is equally rewarding. Locals have long enjoyed this beautiful stretch of water (Akaroa means ‘‘Long Harbour’’) where they sail, kayak, snorkel and swim with Hector’s dolphins – the smallest dolphin, found only in New Zealand – and New Zealand fur seals. Now the rest of the world has discovered this idyllic place of weatherboard B&Bs and chic cafes.
Stop to admire the harbour, once the crater of an active volcano, from the hills above Akaroa which was claimed, unsuccessfully, by French settlers in 1838.
For many New Zealanders a great view should be earned and although tramping, or bushwalking, continues to be a national pastime, Kiwis are increasingly hopping on their bicycles to explore. With its alpine scenery, fast-fl owing rivers and a coastal plain that resembles a billiard table, the
MAKE IT HAPPENSTAYING THERE
1. HAPUKU LODGE, KAIKOURAA modern lodge with ocean and alpine views, Hapuku has rooms from $NZ805 ($746) a night; funky treehouses from $NZ1093 a night. See hapukulodge.com
2. BEAUFORT HOUSE, AKAROAA slice of colonial gentility, Beaufort House overlooks the ocean. Doubles from $NZ350 a night, including breakfast. See beauforthouse.co.nz
TOURING THERE
3. BY RAILThe TranzAlpine service from Christchurch to Greymouth runs daily; adult one-way fares $NZ198. The Coastal Pacifi c service hugs the coastline between Picton and Christchurch; adult one-way fares $NZ159. Passengers can combine journeys and have stopovers. See kiwirailscenic.co.nz
4. BY CAR TO AKAROAAkaroa, a village on the stunning Banks Peninsula, has French heritage, a lively dining scene, eco-adventures and plenty of boutique accommodation. See akaroa.com
5. BY CAR TO KAIKOURADrive north of Christchurch via the Canterbury Plains and Waipara vineyards. Kaikoura has outdoor activities and cultural tours. See kaikoura.co.nz.
WHILE THERE
6. ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAILThe 300-kilometre trail from Mount Cook to Oamaru can be completed in six days. Cyclists carry food and gear and there is accommodation en route. See alps2ocean.com
7. FOUR PEAKS HIGH COUNTRY TRACKMountain bikers and walkers explore South Canterbury high country and stay in musterers’ huts. Experienced riders can complete the 60-kilometre track in three days; walkers tackle a shorter, 40-kilometre circuit. See walkfourpeaks.co.nz
GARDEN CITY HELICOPTERSThis operation off ers a 90-minute fl ight over the Canterbury Plains, the Waimak River Gorge and Arthur’s Pass National Park. Flights to Canterbury’s wine region, including lunch, are also available. See helicopters.net.nz
COASTAL
PACIFIC
Canterbury region is ideal for cycling. The 300-kilometre Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail is becoming New Zealand’s most popular two-wheel adventure. Despite starting in the Southern Alps, the terrain is fairly gentle and suits riders of all abilities.
From Mount Cook, the trail descends about 600 metres to Twizel and then to the coast via Lake Ohau, Omarama, Kurow and Duntroon. Along the way, riders experience varied terrain, from glacial lakes to tussock and rolling vineyards. The trail ends at the historic city of Oamaru, the childhood home of celebrated author Janet Frame.
Mountain bikers can fi nd plenty of challenges in Canterbury. The Four Peaks High Country Track provides a gruelling off -road experience for both hikers and mountain bikers. Cyclists carry a day-pack with food and water, while the host company provides comfortable lodgings in shepherd’s huts and transports your gear.
Whether your defi nition of a great journey involves pedal power, rail or a hire car, you are bound to fi nd transport that fi ts the bill, so slow down and enjoy the experience.
ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL
CANTERBURY PLAINS
KAIKOURA
KE
VIN
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KEY EVENT
Le Race, on March 29, is a 100-kilometre community
bike ride from Christchurch to Akaroa. It’s open to cyclists of all abilities.
lerace.co.nz
HOOKER VALLEY
From top: With views
like this it’s well worth
the eff ort to ride the
300-kilometre Alps
2 Ocean Cycle Trail;
Fresh seafood in
Kaikoura; KiwiRail’s
Coastal Pacific
service winds its way
along the Kaikoura
coast line; Swing
bridge at Mount
Hooker; Summer on
the Canterbury
Plains with a view to
Mount Hutt.
8
Get a tast e for adventu re or simply gaze at the st ars in Aoraki Mount Co ok-Mack enzie.
From top: Swing
bridge on the Hooker
Valley track in Aoraki
Mount Cook National
Park; The Sir Edmund
Hillary Alpine Centre
includes a popular
cafe and bar; Cycling
in the Mackenzie
district.
Ou
tdo
or
s
Hang on and keep walking,” says the guide as we cross a bridge high above an ice-cold river. “Don’t worry. This bridge
won’t blow away. Why? Because it was built by New Zealanders!”
A day’s walk in the Aoraki Mount Cook National Park isn’t going exactly to plan. Apart from the stiff breeze which rattles the swing bridge, there’s a rain shower moving down the valley.
Luckily, the trek leader is Phurenje Sherpa, a highly experienced and cheerful Nepalese guide. Having climbed both Mount Everest (twice) and Mount Cook, Phurenje isn’t going to let a few drops of rain ruin things. “I grew up in the Himalayas, so this feels like home to me,” he says. “I love it.”
Phurenje, who speaks English and Japanese fl uently, has a special relationship with the Aoraki Mount Cook National Park – the place where legendary mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary trained for his assault on Everest in 1953. Not only did he attend a Nepalese school built by Sir Edmund, but the great man was instrumental in Phurenje’s decision to immigrate to New Zealand with his family 17 years ago. “I am proud to have been associated with Sir Edmund,” he says. “That’s why I named my son after him.”
As a hardened climber Phurenje must fi nd our gentle 8 kilometre hike into
the Hooker Valley a doddle, but tackles the job with steely professionalism. “Spending time in the mountains is always special,” he says.
With no fewer than four epic ski fi elds, the Aoraki Mount Cook-Mackenzie region is best known for its winter sports, but its outdoor adventure palette includes mountain biking, four-wheel-drive tours, scenic fl ights, kayaking and, of course, day walks. The Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre includes a cinema and a small museum celebrating the life of the adventurer.
The Aoraki Mount Cook National Park is a four-hour drive from Christchurch and its alpine village has every creature comfort, with The Hermitage Hotel complex providing the ideal base camp from which to explore the region. Guest rooms in the main tower have picture perfect views of Mount Cook; most rooms have a pair of binoculars.
Mount Cook Village has many dining options, including the atmospheric Old Mountaineers Cafe Bar and Restaurant and the award-winning Panorama Room.
New Zealanders have a robust appreciation of their country’s natural wonders which may help explain the roaring success of the adventure operator Glacier Explorers. The Mount Cook-based company uses high-powered bright-yellow boats to take passengers
MOUNT COOK
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WestlandNational
Park 13
4 2
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Lake Pukaki
LakeTekapo
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6
Akaroa
Christchurch
MOUNT COOK
on the Tasman Lake, home to a glacier, icebergs, scree slopes, moraines and other geological marvels.
“All I ask of you guys is please, no swimming,” says our guide Martin. “The water temperature is around four degrees today and if you go in the drink, I have to jump in to get you.”
While the sight of the giant Tasman Glacier, the longest glacier to fl ow into the Mackenzie Basin, is impressive, the chance to touch an iceberg and learn about its 300-year voyage makes a deeper impression. Rather than being a huge mass of ice, a glacier consists of millions of crystals, air pockets, stone and dirt which it has collected on its journey. “We call glaciers rivers of ice,” says Martin. “But they move 100,000 times slower than a normal river.”
Not only has glacial activity over aeons helped to shape the topography of Canterbury, as they melt these frozen rivers continue to infl uence the landscape; for example, tiny particles of rock suspended in the meltwater gives the rivers and lakes their intense, often garish, blue tinge.
While visiting Mackenzie district, a vast area of majestic upland and grazing country, will certainly toughen your calves, expect your grey matter to get a work out, too. Stop at Lake Tekapo, about three hours’ drive from Christchurch, and discover a community which relishes darkness. Thanks to the light-reducing measures adopted by the town, the region is a Dark Sky Reserve, so in addition to enjoying Lake Tekapo’s hot springs, alpine trekking and golf, make the time to visit the Mount John Observatory.
Watching the observatory’s giant telescope swing into action can kick off discussions about black holes, Magellan clouds and galactic bulges.
Guests who take the excellent Earth & Sky night time tour also get a practical astronomy lesson using a telescope to observe Venus, Jupiter, the Milky Way and the surface of the moon. The night sky has never looked closer, brighter or more intense.
MACKENZIE DISTRICT
From top: The only
way is up in the
Mackenzie district’s
Dark Sky Reserve;
Church of the Good
Shepherd, Lake
Tekapo; Mount
Cook lillies beside a
walking track in the
Hooker Valley;
Boating on the
Tasman Glacier.
Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 9
MAKE IT HAPPEN
STAYING THERE
1. THE HERMITAGE
This is much more than a hotel.
For visitors it’s also the Aoraki
Mount Cook Alpine Village nerve-
centre for booking guided hikes,
glacier tours, stargazing and more.
Standard rooms from $NZ215
($198). See hermitage.co.nz
2. PEPPERS BLUEWATER
RESORT
A comfortable base from which
to explore Lake Tekapo. Rooms
and villas have mountain or lake
views, the restaurant is superb,
there’s a small bar and tour
booking service. One-bedroom
view suites from $NZ240.
See peppers.co.nz/bluewater
TOURING AND HIKING THERE
3. GLACIER EXPLORERS
Expert skippers transport
passengers to the 27 kilometre
Tasman Glacier. From mid-
September to late May. $NZ145
adult; $NZ70 child. See
glacierexplorers.com
4. AIR SAFARIS
These fl ights provide a bird’s
eye view of mountains, glaciers,
rivers and lakes. Highlights
include Aoraki Mount Cook, the
Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers
and the Mackenzie basin. Also
see high country sheep stations,
fast-fl owing rivers and dramatic
ravines. A fl eet of modern aircraft
means that every passenger has a
window seat. See airsafaris.co.nz.
1. HIKING MOUNT COOK
Although Aoraki Mount Cook
is a climbing destination, many
come here to walk. Because of the
changeable weather it’s advisable
to hire an experienced guide.
Day walks (8 kilometres) take you
deep into the Hooker Valley. Cost:
$NZ110 adult; NZ$69 child. See
hermitage.co.nz
WHILE THERE
5. OLD MOUNTAINEERS CAFE
BAR & RESTAURANT The
perfect spot for a meal, coff ee or
a glass of Speights Summit beer.
Try the Mountaineer’s Breakfast
served until 1pm. See mtcook.com
6. EARTH & SKY, MOUNT JOHN
Watch a multi-million dollar
observatory at work then
experience star gazing using
high-powered telescopes.
Cost: $NZ135 adult, $NZ80 child.
See earthandsky.co.nz
TASMAN LAKE
KEY EVENT
Aoraki Mount Cook Marathon This inaugural 10km road race at Aoraki
Mount Cook Village on April 13 will take runners into
spectacular alpine scenery. See
activeqt.co.nz
LAKE TEKAPO
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ture
Feel the exhilarati on of getti ng cl ose to whales, dolphins, seals and penguins in Akaroa and Kaikoura.
dolphins. The water is wonderfully exhilarating.
Akaroa, a fi shing village about 90 minutes’ drive from Christchurch on the Banks Peninsula, is a showcase of the South Island at play.
On sunny days the harbour buzzes with sailboats and dinghies, kayaks and vessels taking passengers to explore nearby bays. Fishing and scuba diving charters also operate from the wharf.
In Flea Bay, a pristine marine sanctuary on the tip of the peninsula, Pohatu Penguins hosts small-group kayaking to see colonies of New Zealand fur seals, exploring rock stacks, cliff s and caves along the way.
The bay is also home to white-fl ippered penguins and penguin tours are available.
Kayakers launch from a deserted beach and no matter how rusty your paddling skills, it doesn’t take long to fi nd a natural rhythm.
Later, back on land, a few weary paddlers head to a nearby stream to wash off the salt water. One kayaker, a Norwegian called Sebastian, stands in the stream, grinning. “Now this is really living,” he says.
Sustainable tourism is not confi ned to the peninsula. Kaikoura, to the north of Christchurch, is a globally
AKAROA HARBOUR
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All sleek, black with distinctive white markings, they move quickly as our catamaran approaches, one leaping
high above the waves. Once called killer whales because of their ferocity and size, these orcas are a rare sight in Akaroa Harbour and seem to have scared off the Hector’s dolphins we’re hoping to swim with.
New Zealand has an uncanny ability to steer even the most dedicated city slicker into the arms of mother nature. The stress melts away as they discover the pristine ocean depths, or feel the wind in their hair while marvelling at yet another incredible vista.
Blame it on the pure air, the infectious enthusiasm of locals or the clear blue skies, but something odd happens the moment you step off a plane in Christchurch. It’s the call of the wild, Kiwi-style.
Small groups – today it’s Brazilians, Singaporeans and Brits – head to Akaroa Harbour, a magnifi cent waterway fl anked by steep volcanic hills, where the aim is to swim among the world’s smallest dolphins, which measure just 1.4 metres.
We plunge into the ocean from the catamaran, surface, grin at each other and tread water while waiting for the
From top: Several
species of whales
live in waters off
the coastal town of
Kaikoura; Swimming
with friendly Hector’s
dolphins in Akaroa
Harbour; Fur seal.
Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 11
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CANTERBURY
1Christchurch
Kaikoura
Akaroa
6KAIKOURA
recognised hub for environmental tourism and cultural relevance – as well as hospitality.
“Visitors are known as waewae tapu or ‘sacred feet’,” says Maurice Manawatu, from Maori Tours Kaikoura. “Part of our belief is that your ancestors walk with you, so we are giving respect not only to you but your ancestors. That’s why a Maori greeting can take so long – we have a lot of ancestors.”
Maori Tours hosts tours in Kaikoura’s Puhi Puhi Valley, where visitors explore native bush and learn how to identify ancient rimu and totara trees and fragrant bushes such as manuka and kanuka, both used by Maori people.
Kaikoura also has horse riding, hiking and mountain biking holidays, but most visitors are drawn to the area’s rugged shoreline.
Whale Watch Kaikoura, a Maori-owned and international award-winning eco-tourism business, uses custom-designed catamarans and sophisticated underwater radar to track the giant sperm whales which live and breed in a deep trench known as the Kaikoura Canyon.
Sperm whales can weigh up to 40 tonne and reach lengths of 20 metres. Despite their bulk they are astonishingly fast divers, descending at 180 metres a minute. Tracking them is a delicate, skilled operation, but one that Whale Watch Kaikoura does with aplomb – and great care.
The fertile waters around Kaikoura also teem with fur seals, dusky dolphins and pelagic seabirds including several species of terns, shearwaters and albatross. Encounter Kaikoura hosts specialist albatross tours and takes people to swim with dusky dolphins.
For such a small town (population 3600), Kaikoura has a very big heart. Don’t be surprised if you hear quite a few non-Kiwi accents here as many visitors simply cannot bear to leave.
From top: White-
flippered penguins at
Flea Bay; Volcanic hills
surround Kaikoura;
Dazzling acrobatic
feats of dusky dolphins;
The serenity of Akaroa
Harbour on the Banks
Peninsula.
MAKE IT HAPPENON THE WATER, AKAROA
1. BLACK CAT CRUISESSwimming with dolphins takes place from September to May. Wetsuits, booties, masks and snorkels supplied. From NZ$145 ($133) adult, $NZ120 child. Daily, narrated two-hour Akaroa Harbour Nature Cruises are also available and take passengers to see sea caves, volcanic cliff s and the Lucas Bay salmon farm alongside other highlights. From NZ$72 adult, N$30 child. See blackcat.co.nz
2. POHATU PENGUINSNature-based adventures on Banks Peninsula includes kayaking to protected colonies of fur seals and penguins. No kayaking experience required. From $NZ90 adult; $NZ65 child. Includes transport from Akaroa. See pohatu.co.nz
1. ARAKOA JET ADVENTURESFast journeys in the harbour are available aboard a 20-seat, twin V8 600 horsepower jet boat. Book at the Akaroa Wharf’s information centre. From N$70 adult, NZ$35 child. Seeakaroajet.co.nz
ON THE WATER, KAIKOURA
3. WHALE WATCH KAIKOURASee giant sperm whales in action with this Maori-owned company. Tours take place year round. From $NZ145 adult $NZ60 child. See whalewatch.co.nz
4. ENCOUNTER KAIKOURA Swimming with dolphins, albatross-watching tours and other nature-based adventure are available. A four-hour albatross encounter from $NZ125. See encounterkaikoura.co.nz
5. MAORI TOURS KAIKOURA Join Maurice Manawatu and his team for one of the South Island’s most informative half-day cultural tours. Twice daily, year round. From $NZ134 adult; $NZ74 child. See maoritours.co.nz
6. KAIKOURA KAYAKSSpot fur seals, blue penguins and dusky dolphins on guided sea kayak tours. Suitable for new and experienced kayakers. Tours operate daily, year round. From $NZ95 adult; $NZ70 child. See kaikourakayaks.co.nz.
AKAROA
HARBOUR
KAIKOURA
KAIKOURA
KEY EVENT
Kaikoura Seafest Crayfish, paua and mussels from locals
waters are the stars of this annual event, along with craft beers, ciders, wines, gourmet
cheeses and cooking demonstrations.
October 4. See seafest.co.nz
12
Ind
ulg
en
ce Lovers of luxury
and soothing cures are spoilt for ch oice at Canterbury’s healing havens.
When the network of thermal pools at Hanmer Springs was in use in the mid-19th century, Victorian
morality called for segregated nude bathing. Trousers or skirts were hoist up a pole to indicate the gender of bathers using the hot pools.
The pools soon became a popular alpine destination and a sanatorium and hotel were built. Fast forward to the 21st-century and Hanmer Springs, about a 90-minute drive north-west of Christchurch, is an outstanding destination. Facilities include a massage and beauty centre, waterslide and children’s play area and a luxurious day spa, The Spa at Hanmer Springs.
The Springs’ centrepiece is 12 open-air pools fed by geothermal water drawn from a nearby bore. Each pool ranges in temperature from 33- to 42 degrees. Guests also have access to three sulphur pools, six private indoor thermal pools, a sauna and a freshwater, heated swimming pool.
Hardly surprising, then, that the muscle-weary Wallabies rugby squad based themselves at Hanmer Springs for several days during their 2011 World Cup campaign.
Hanmer Springs Village accommodation includes luxe apartments and boutique hotels, B&Bs and holiday parks. A popular ski destination, the Springs region also hosts hiking, kayaking and mountain biking in the warmer months, so travellers can combine outdoor adventure with pampering.
About a 10-minute drive from the village is Select Braemer Lodge and Spa, which started life as a hunting and fi shing lodge but has since cemented its place in the wellness stakes, off ering spacious suites, world-class facilities and impeccable mountain views.
South of Christchurch, Tekapo Springs has a purpose-built adventure complex with hot pools, a winter ice-skating rink, snow tube, giant water slide, cafe and day spa.
It’s a perfect place to stop en route to Aoraki Mount Cook, but Tekapo Springs is also fast becoming a destination in its own right with year-round outdoor adventure options, excellent dining and – supported by the region’s Dark Sky Reserve status – the nearby Mount John Observatory.
Spas, meditation centres and spiritual retreats feature across the Canterbury
TEKAPO SPRINGS
ANNANDALE HOMESTEAD
From top: Thermal pools
at Tekapo Springs; The
Annandale Homestead;
The Shepherd’s Cottage at
Annandale Homestead, a
restored farming property.
ANNANDALE
SHEPHERD’S
COTTAGE
1HERSA1 0013
Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 13
Akaroa
Greymouth
Picton
CANTERBURY1
6 4
5 3
Christchurch
Kaikoura
Mount Cook
Oamaru
2 Arthur’s PassNational Park
region. In the coastal town of Akaroa, the Lumière Well-Being Centre has established a reputation for its beauty therapies and infra-red sauna sessions; try the invigorating kelp and salt exfoliation and massage.
Annandale Homestead, a restored farming property on the nearby Banks Peninsula, has a heated swimming pool, spa pool, fully-equipped gym and an all-weather tennis court.
Annandale’s chef, Bradley Hornby, creates menus to suit the needs of guests using ingredients sourced from the homestead and nearby.
New Zealand excels at providing luxury and elegance in the wilderness, with a national portfolio of luxury lodges now famous across the world.
Otahuna Lodge, at Tai Tapu, a 20-minute drive from Christchurch, is a magnifi cent two-storey Queen Anne house fi lled with antiques and paintings and surrounded by 115-year old gardens. Facilities include a swimming pool, spa pool, gym, tennis court and massage centre. Wellness extends to Otahuna’s hands-on cooking lessons, too, in which guests join executive chef Jimmy McIntyre to discuss the lodge’s food and wine philosophies, choose ingredients from the organic working gardens and learn the arts of the kitchen fi rst-hand.
Grasmere Lodge, a historic retreat in the Southern Alps near Arthur’s Pass, combines luxury, adventure and exclusivity in equal measure. All Grasmere guestrooms have a jacuzzi and original artworks. The tariff includes pre-dinner drinks, canapes and a four-course meal with wine pairings. There’s also a superb wine cellar, swimming pool and stables. After a day spent hiking, fl y fi shing, clay bird shooting or horse riding, guests retreat to the lodge’s Mountain Spa for hot stone massages and treatments. For the less active, the lodge lawn hosts petanque and croquet, and of course, there’s the library and billiard table should the weather keep guests indoors.
Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 13
MAKE IT HAPPEN
STAYING THERE
1. OTAHUNA LODGE, TAI TAPU
Grounds include 12 hectares of
gardens and lakes. There is a
swimming pool, spa pool, gym
and tennis court. Golf, horse
riding and fl y-fi shing are available.
From $NZ1200 ($1100) a night
(low season). See otahuna.co.nz
2. GRASMERE LODGE
An escape with every luxury
deep in the Southern Alps.
Outdoor activities are available
in nearby Arthur’s Pass National
Park. The lodge’s Mountain Spa
off ers treatments in an alpine
setting. Rooms from $NZ1244
a night. See grasmere.co.nz
3. SELECT BRAEMAR
LODGE & SPA
A great option for those extending
a visit to nearby Hanmer
Springs. Relax in the spa, play
golf or go whitewater raft ing.
Rooms from $NZ255 a night. See
selectbraemarlodge.com
INDULGING THERE
4. LUMIÈRE WELL-BEING
CENTRE, AKAROA
Set in a delightful garden, Lumière
has massage and refl exology
therapies, signature treatments,
and an infra-red sauna for easing
muscle tension, and improving
circulation and skin. See
lumièrewellbeingcentre.com
5. HANMER SPRINGS
THERMAL POOLS AND SPA
Ninety minutes from downtown
Christchurch, Hanmer has an
astonishing range of boutique and
family-friendly activities. There
are six indoor thermal pools and
a day spa for treatments, while
family fun includes water slides
and a heated swimming pool with
“resort style” walk-in beach access
and a “Lazy River”. Ice-skating is
also popular in winter. Thermal
pools are open 10am to 9pm daily
and entry is $NZ50 family, $NZ20
adult, $NZ10 child. In the Hanmer
region, visitors white-water raft ,
mountain bike and bungee jump
in warmer months and ski in
winter. See hanmersprings.co.nz
6. TEKAPO SPRINGS
HOT POOLS AND SPA
This lakeside adventure park has
hot pools, a water slide, year-
round tubing and spa treatments,
all with stunning views of Lake
Tekapo. Entry to hot pools is
$NZ20 adult; $NZ12 child. See
tekaposprings.co.nz
GRASMERE LODGE
OTAHUNA
LODGE
HANMER
SPRINGS
KEY EVENT
Great Kiwi Beer Festival More than 100 local and international brews are served in Christchurch
on March 29. See greatkiwibeerfestival.
co.nz
SELECT
BRAEMAR
LODGE & SPA
From top left: Enjoying
the good life at Select
Braemar Lodge & Spa,
Hanmer Springs, Akaroa;
Massage treatment at
Lumière; The warm and
welcoming Otahuna
Lodge lobby at Tai Tapu
is filled with antiques;
Relaxing at Hanmer
Springs; Grasmere Lodge
in the Southern Alps.
14
Fo
od
& w
ine
Treat yourself to the superb dishes and cellars the rest of the world raves about.
Deboned poached quail, loin of venison and a slice of Black Forest roulade to fi nish, all enjoyed while gazing at the
towering peaks of Mount Cook, are synonymous with fi ne dining at the Panorama Room in Aoraki Mount Cook Village. Its regional produce and robust fl avours has made this restaurant an institution in Canterbury.
The restaurant’s wine list is equally impressive, with NZ pinot noirs, cabernets, rieslings, chardonnays and gewurztraminers, including key drops from the Waipara Valley and other wine-growing regions north of Christchurch.
Waipara’s reputation for distinctive cool-climate wine is growing apace, with established wineries including Pegasus Bay, Waipara Hills and Mountford Estate being joined by new players such as Black Estate and Fancrest Estate.
At Black Estate, varieties of chenin blanc and cabernet franc are being planted, joining the vineyard’s award-winning line-up of pinot noirs, chardonnays and rieslings. Its Waipara Valley estate also includes a restaurant serving fresh baked ciabatta, goat’s cheese tarts, venison tataki and sweet delights such as orange pana cotta with cherry jelly. When you visit, prepare to settle in.
Given New Zealand’s hunting and fi shing heritage, visitors can expect to see plenty of venison, salmon, mussels, scallops and paua, a popular abalone, during their travels.
Motor or cycle south of Christchurch to Akaroa and you will fi nd a determination to use the freshest local ingredients, including Akaroa salmon, in modern twists on classic European-style dishes. A small seaside village, Akaroa has several smart restaurants, including The Little Bistro, as well as a popular cooking school.
The fertile Canterbury Plains are one of the world’s largest producers of milk, butter and cheese as well as an astonishing variety of vegetables. The region is also famous for its grass-fed lamb and organic beef. Even small country cafes prefer to serve sustainable, locally sourced produce.
A sustainable sensibility is part of the fabric of life here and the results are tasty. The C1 Espresso cafe in Christchurch, for example, has its own
From top: Pegasus
Bay winery in Waipara
Valley, the cool-climate
wine growing region
north of Christchurch;
Local and international
brews feature at the
Great Kiwi Beer Festival
in Christchurch; A dish
inspired by the cuisines
of the Caribbean and
South America at
Tequila Mockingbird in
Christchurch.
WAIPARA VALLEY
CHRISTCHURCH
DININGGREAT KIWI BEER FESTIVAL
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Christchurch & Canterbury MARCH 8, 2014 15
From top: The
Hermitage, Mount
Cook; C1 Esspresso,
Christchurch; 50 Bistro
@ the George in
Christchurch; 42-hour-
cooked Wakanui
beef-flank steak
served at 50 Bistro,
the flagship restaurant
at Christchurch’s The
George; Harlequin’s
bottled cocktails.
dairy herd, vegetable garden and an organic rooftop apiary. ‘‘We’ve always done things a little diff erently and I think that’s what people like about C1,’’ says owner Sam Crofskey.
Since the earthquakes of 2010 and 2011, a suite of cafes, restaurants and gastro pubs have opened or reopened in Christchurch.
Some, such as the food court at Re:START, central Christchurch’s shipping-container retail centre, enjoy a cult following, but the edgy culinary revolution does not stop there.
New restaurants such as Tequila Mockingbird and the Harlequin Public House serve great nosh and channel a vibrant youthful enthusiasm. CBD Bar & Pizzeria, a new gastro pub in Madras Street, is a perfect example of how Christchurch has managed to make the extraordinary seem normal.
As you sip a pint of pilsner, IPA, Best Bitter or Milk Stout – all brewed in Canterbury by Cassels & Sons – you will see rubble, empty sites and boarded-up buildings nearby.
Beer afi cionados should visit Cassels & Sons brewery in Woolston for its cask-conditioned ales and lagers. The brewery also houses cafes, boutiques and other businesses left homeless after the earthquakes.
New laneway bars, hole-in-the-wall eateries and more elaborate dining will soon open in Christchurch, while old favourites beckon, including the studied elegance of 50 Bistro, the fl agship restaurant at The George, the city’s most exclusive small hotel.
50 Bistro executive chef Andrew Brown and his team turn the indulgence dial to 11 by giving classic dishes a distinctive New Zealand elan. Don’t miss the 42-hour-cooked Wakanui beef-fl ank steak served with watercress and radish salad. The aged, grass-fed beef fi llets and rib-eyes are equally tempting, and the desserts, including rhubarb compote, are delectable.
HERMITAGE
MOUNT COOK
MAKE IT HAPPENWINE AND DINE
1. THE PANORAMA ROOMNo prize for guessing why this elegant space at The Hermitage,
Mount Cook Village, with its front row view of Mount Cook, is called
the Panorama Room, but the restaurant does not rely on views
alone. See hermitage.co.nz2. THE LITTLE BISTROEnjoy seafood, including Akaroa
salmon, monkfi sh, scallops and smoked eel, at this cute French
accented eatery in Akaroa. See thelittlebistro.co.nz
3. BLACK ESTATE WINERYThis boutique, family-run winery is part of the new guard emerging
from the Waipara region, north of Christchurch. The cellar door
is open Wednesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm. See blackestate.co.nz 3. PEGASUS BAY WINERYThis established winery, has
an award-winning restaurant and hosts concerts in its natural
amphitheatre. Cellar door and restaurant open seven days.
See pegasusbay.com
CHRISTCHURCH4. THE GEORGEThe 53-room hotel is superb and
has two great dining experiences: Pescatore and 50 Bistro. Executive
rooms from $NZ405 ($373). See thegeorge.com
5. TEQUILA MOCKINGBIRDA fresh, contemporary Latin-fusion style bar and restaurant
in Victoria Street where the dining is relaxed and communal. Open until late. See tequilamockingbird.co.nz
6. HARLEQUIN PUBLIC HOUSEThis beautifully restored Victorian villa on Salisbury Street
is now one of the coolest places to hang out in Christchurch. It
serves bistro meals, great oysters, boutique wines and craft beers.
See hphchch.com
7. CBD BAR & PIZZERIALike a gastronomic phoenix, this handsome, modern building has
risen on Madras Street. Enjoy a pint of Cassels & Sons craft beer
and the best wood-fi red pizza in Canterbury. Open until late.
See cbdbar.co.nz
CITY GRAZING
CHRISTCHURCH DINING
CANTERBURY
Christchurch 2Akaroa
3 Waipara
MountCook
CHRISTCHURCHRCH
ChristchurchBotanicGardens
ChristchurchBotanicGardens
ChristchurchBotanicGardens
South Hagley
Park
South Hagley
Park
MOORHOUSE AVE
MA
DR
AS
ST
FIT
ZG
ER
AL
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VE
BEALEY AVE
SAINT ASAPH ST
7
5
64
1
KEY EVENT
Farmers’ Market Stock up on fresh produce every Saturday at Christchurch’s
Riccarton House. christchurchfarmers
market.co.nz
TOMORROW STORIES WILL BE FROZEN IN TIME.GLACIER EXPLORERS4 hours drive from Christchurch.
Christchurch EVERY DAY A DIFFERENT STORY newzealand.com