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Varanasi, India – Fall/Academic Year 2012-13 The Varanasi program is offered by International Academic Programs (IAP) at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. This IAP Program Handbook supplements handbook(s) or materials you receive from the program as well as the IAP Study Abroad Handbook and provides you with the most up-to-date information and advice available at the time of printing. Changes may occur before your departure or while you are abroad. This handbook, in conjunction with orientation will help you prepare for - and enjoy – your time in India. Questions about your program abroad (housing options, facilities abroad, etc.) as well as questions relating to academics (e.g., course credit and equivalents, etc.) should be directed to International Academic Programs at UW-Madison.

Contents

CONTACT INFORMATION .................................................................................................................... 2

PROGRAM DATES ................................................................................................................................... 3

TRAVEL AND ARRIVAL ARRANGEMENTS ..................................................................................... 3

ACADEMIC PROGRAM .......................................................................................................................... 5

HOUSING .................................................................................................................................................. 10

PROGRAM HOUSE AND STAFF ......................................................................................................... 11

PREPARING FOR VARANASI ............................................................................................................. 16

CUSTOMS, EXPECTATIONS AND CULTURAL INTEGRATION................................................. 23

HEALTH AND SAFETY ......................................................................................................................... 27

WHAT TO DO AND GETTING AROUND .......................................................................................... 29

COMMUNICATION ................................................................................................................................ 33

RESOURCES ............................................................................................................................................ 34

STUDENT TESTIMONIALS .................................................................................................................. 35

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CONTACT INFORMATION On-Site Program Information Program Director 17, Kaivalyadham Colony Dr. V.A.Vidya ("Vidya") Durga Kund Road Email: varanasi1011uw@gmail.com

Varanasi 221 005 Cell phone: +91 94431 64048 or +91 095549 53475 Uttar Pradesh, India Tel: 011-91-542-231-1009 Fax:call and ask respondent to switch on fax. Available only at night (U.S. time) UW-Madison Information International Academic Programs (IAP) University of Wisconsin-Madison 106 Red Gym, 716 Langdon Street Madison, WI 53706 Phone: 608-265-6329; Fax: 608-262-6998 Web: www.studyabroad.wisc.edu Kate Hamoonga IAP Student Study Abroad Advisor Phone: (608)-265-6296 E-mail: hamoonga@studyabroad.wisc.edu Emergency Contact Information In case of an emergency, call the main IAP number (608) 265-6329 between 7:45 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; after-hours or on weekends call the IAP staff on call at (608) 516-9440. Embassy Registration All program participants who are U.S. citizens must register at the U.S. Embassy before departure as this will help in case of a lost passport or other mishap. You can register on-line at <https://travelregistration.state.gov>. If you are not a U.S. citizen, register at your home country’s embassy or consulate. The closest U.S. Embassy in India is in New Delhi. American Citizen Services Unit U.S. Embassy Shanti Path Chanakya Puri New Delhi 110 021 Email: acsnd@state.gov

http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov/

Telephone: 011-91-11-2419-8000, ext. 4249 or 8562 or 4040 or 4032

If calling outside of normal business hours and there is an emergency involving a U.S. citizen, ask the

embassy operator to connect you to the “duty officer.”

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PROGRAM DATES Fall Semester August 20 Arrive in India August 21 Morning orientation at AIIS; lunch @ AIIS; afternoon tour of AIIS facilities August 22 Afternoon departure for Mussouri for Hindi Language Retreat August 23-27 Hindi Language Retreat August 28 Return to New Delhi August 29 Depart for Varanasi August 30 – September 2 Varanasi Orientation September 3 First day of classes December 14 Last day of classes December 15* First day you can depart from Varanasi (fall students) Spring Semester January 6 - 9 Spring orientation January 10 First day of classes April 27* First day you can depart from Varanasi **This is the final date of the program, and you are expected to stay on site until this date to address any last minute questions about coursework or tutorial papers. Travel during the fall and spring semester should be limited to breaks, holidays and weekends. All students must inform the on-site staff and their home stay family or apartment landlords of their travel plans. Students must also complete the Varanasi Program Travel Form before traveling. Students should also spend time educating themselves about the political and social situations of a place they want to visit (city or country) prior to making travel arrangements.

TRAVEL AND ARRIVAL ARRANGEMENTS Immigration Documents Passport A passport is needed to travel to India and to obtain your student visa. Apply immediately for a passport if you do not already have one. Passport information and application forms can be found on the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport). If you already have your passport, make sure it will be valid for at least 6 months beyond the length of your stay abroad and must have at least two blank visa pages (the last two amendment pages do not count) as the Indian Consulate requires this to affix your student visa to your passport. Visas/Residence Permits During orientation, IAP will provide you with information about how to apply for your Indian student visa. Students are responsible for applying for the student visa but will be given instructions on the Indian student visa application process and needed documentation from the American Institute for Indian Studies that is required for the student visa application. When you receive your visa, be sure to check the dates carefully to ensure that you received a visa for the correct duration. Follow up with Travisa immediately if you find a mistake in your visa. Foreigners Regional Registration Office (FRRO) Registration in India

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Upon arrival in Varanasi, the on-site staff will help you register at the FRRO in Varanasi. This will give you temporary residence in India for the duration of the program. You will receive the documentation for this once you arrive in India. You will need to bring your passport, 10 copies of your Passport ID page and Visa page, and 10 passport photographs to this registration. A staff member will escort you to the FRRO and help you get registered. Travel You are responsible for making your own travel arrangements to and from New Delhi. The program will provide transportation from Delhi to the language retreat, and then to Varanasi. Arriving in India When you arrive in New Delhi, the program staff will meet you at the airport. You must make sure to submit your flight itinerary through your MyStudyAbroad account by the requested deadline so that the program staff knows of your arrival time. You will have a hotel room in New Delhi for the night of August 20. All participants must arrive by the program arrival date and no later than 1:00 AM (August 21st) if they want to use the program airport pick-up service. On the arrival day, program staff will meet students at New Delhi International Airport. Staff will arrive by 10 PM and will be waiting outside the exit of the international arrivals area with a “UW-Varanasi” sign. Students who arrive early are advised to remain in the international arrivals area until program staff arrive or they can make their own travel arrangements to the hotel in New Delhi. Students that arrive outside of this day and time will need to make their own arrival arrangements and will be provided with the address of the hotel in New Delhi. New Delhi Orientation On August 21st, there will be a 2-3 hour orientation at the American Institute for Indian Studies (AIIS), New Delhi (http://www.indiastudies.org/). During the orientation, you will learn about AIIS and the services that they provide to the UW-Madison program as well as learn about their other activities that include extensive archiving of Indian art and archaeology and ethnomusicology. AIIS will also provide an important overview of health and safety issues that you will need to be aware of while living in India. After this orientation, you will travel to Mussoorie for your language retreat (see below). Varanasi Orientation Following the conclusion of the language retreat, you will travel by train, along with program staff, to Varanasi. The trip will transit through New Delhi, where you will spend one night, before continuing the journey to the final destination of Varanasi. The train from New Delhi to Varanasi is approximately 11 hours. The train will depart New Delhi mid afternoon, and travel overnight to Varanasi, arriving early morning. You will be assigned seats in a sleeper car so that you will be able to rest and travel comfortably to Varanasi. Upon arrival to Varanasi, you will check-in to a hotel for the 3-day orientation. The 3-day orientation will be divided into sessions that orient you both to living and studying in India, and also introduce you to Varanasi, including learning about various housing options. You will be provided with an exact schedule of the 3-day orientation upon arrival to India.

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ACADEMIC PROGRAM Hindi Language Retreat The fall Hindi language retreat will take place in the mountain town of Mussoorie. Mussoorie is a city in the Dehradun District of the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand.

The train ride from New Delhi to Dehradum is approximately 6 hours. The remainder of the trip is by van to Mussoorie, about a 1 hour trip. You will stay at a hotel in Mussorie and all language classes will be conducted in classroom space at the hotel. Program staff will accompany you on your entire journey from New Delhi to Mussoorie. Objectives The language retreat creates a learning environment to focus exclusively on the study of Hindi language. You will have class 4 hours a day for the 5 days of the retreat. Upon arrival, your Hindi language level will be assessed and you will be placed, accordingly, based upon your proficiency level into one of three sections:

Beginning Hindi Intermediate Hindi Advanced Hindi

The learning objectives of the Hindi retreat are:

a. To provide a structured environment for you to exclusively study Hindi language b. To improve oral and listening conversation skills so that you become more comfortable with

the language c. To expand upon your Hindi vocabulary specific to your proficiency level d. To begin to understand and/or broaden your understanding of Hindi grammatical rules and

structures

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In addition to the 4 hours of Hindi language instruction, you are expected to use your time to work on course assignments and to practice your spoken Hindi with program staff, instructors, other students, and community members in Mussoori. While the language retreat is meant to focus on the study of Hindi language, program staff will also integrate a series of orientation sessions that will address a number of issues and concerns related to living in and studying in India. Program Curriculum

Semester Students:

Academic Year Students:

1) HINDI Language Course – 4 credits

Elementary Hindi

Intermediate Hindi

Advanced Tutorial

2) India Culture & Society – 3 credits

3) Tutorials

Language: Sanskrit, Urdu, Hindi, etc. - 4 credits

Arts - 3 credits

4) Field Methods and Ethics - 3 credits

5) Independent Study Paper - 3 credits

FALL 1) HINDI Language Course – 4 credits

Elementary Hindi

Intermediate Hindi

Advanced Tutorial 2) India Culture & Society – 3 credits 3) Tutorials – 3 credits each optional

Language: Sanskrit, Urdu, Hindi, etc. - 4 credits

Arts - 3 credits 4) Field Methods and Ethics - 3 credits 5) Independent Study Proposal – 3 credits SPRING 1) HINDI Language Course – 4 credits

Elementary Hindi

Intermediate Hindi

Advanced Tutorial 2) India Culture & Society Seminar - 3 credits 3) Tutorials (max 2 allowed)

Language: Sanskrit, Urdu, Hindi, etc. -4 credits

Arts - 3 credits 4) Independent Study Paper - 3 credits

COURSE DESCRIPTIONS Hindi Language – 4 credits (Elementary, Intermediate or Advanced level) Hindi classes are composed of 3 levels:

Beginning Intermediate Advanced

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The course combines the Hindi language retreat along with regular weekly classes taught in Varanasi. Note: Year-long students will participate in the fall Hindi language retreat but not the spring retreat for the spring semester students.

Indian Culture and Society Seminar – 3 credits This course is intended to introduce students to various elements of Indian culture and society. Instructors from Banaras Hindu University teach the course. In addition to classroom instruction, this course integrates various program excursions and field trips that are required for the course. For Academic year students, an additional Indian Culture and Society seminar will be offered for the spring semester.

Tutorial (language) – 4 credits OR Tutorial (Performing or Visual art) – 3 credits

PERFORMANCE OR VISUAL ART TUTORIAL The cultural arts tutorials explore various Indian performing & fine arts. Students receive performance training in music, dance, or art, directly under the tutelage of an expert in the field. The tutorial is complemented by a weekly series of discussions, where students explore the intersection of learning in a cross-cultural context. Sample arts tutorials include, but may not be limited to the following:

a. Rajasthani Painting b. Classical Indian Dance (e.g. Kathak, Bharatnatyam) c. Classical Indian Music (e.g. sitar, tabla, violin, sarod, santoor, vocal performance) d. Jewelry making e. Clay pot making f. Stone Carving g. Miniature painting

LANGUAGE TUTORIAL A study of an Indian Language such as Sanskrit, Urdu, Persian, Arabic, Bhojpui. Students wishing to create an intensive Hindi course of study for the semester can choose to add a Hindi tutorial to their regular Hindi language semester course.

Field methods and Ethics – 3 credits This course introduces topics related to gathering data using various research methods techniques, like interviews, participant observation, surveys, etc. The ethical implications for gathering data will also be reviewed. Students will explore these topics in general, but also specific to their particular research interests as it relates to the independent study research project. Independent Study – 3 credits The independent study is an opportunity for students to explore a topic of interest where they are able to employ basic research gathering techniques learned from the Research Methods and Ethics course, while taking advantage of their physical presence in Varanasi to explore a topic of interest. It is expected that students will choose a topic that can be explored in detail, using research gathering techniques, while in Varanasi. The point is for students to take advantage of the opportunity of studying in Varanasi, India and to explore and write about a topic that uniquely takes advantage of the study abroad experience. In other words, students should not simply do a “traditional” research paper, using texts

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and readings, that could otherwise be done anywhere in the world. Students should take advantage of the unique opportunity and vast resources that the program makes available to explore a topic of interest. Note: Year-long students Those students who will study on the program for the entire year are expected to write one independent study paper, but that will be explored in greater detail, given the addition time to both gather information and construct the paper. In the fall semester, students will be expected to write an introduction/proposal that will explain in detail the independent research topic and how and what will be explored. In the spring semester, students will be expected to use their time in conducting their research and writing their final paper. Selecting Your Independent Study Topic

1) You will select your independent study paper topic during the Research Methods and Ethics course. As you begin to learn about the means to conduct your research you will need to begin to finalize your topic choice. In addition to working with the Research Methods course instructor you are also advised to consider the following when choosing a topic:

a. Review previous research papers completed by students available for review at the Program House in Varanasi – a list of previous topics are available upon request from UW-Madison.

b. Present your ideas to program staff for feedback on feasibility, available resources, and appropriateness of topic – note that all topics must be approved by UW-Madison.

c. Consider your own academic and personal interests and how the topic could be explored in the context of Varanasi, India – note that the purpose of the independent study paper is to take advantage of your time in Varanasi, and thus should be a topic that can be explored through various research data gathering techniques while there and not be a research paper derived solely from a review of literature.

d. Consult with program alumni/, UW-Madison program Faculty Liaisons, other faculty members – an alumni list is available upon request from UW-Madison.

Excursions related to your Academic coursework Each year the program provides local excursions to historical and cultural locations within Varanasi as well as in the surrounding cities and towns. Some of these excursions are required participation for your coursework, others are optional but good opportunities to share joint experiences with other program participants. The program house occasionally hosts lectures, performances, and holiday celebrations for students. More information about these excursions and program as well as confirmed dates will be provided upon arrival in Varanasi. You must complete all your academic work for the program and have it graded before you leave India by the end of the program. Any academic work that has not been submitted and graded by this date will receive the corresponding number of credits of “F” on your UW-Madison transcript. Class attendance is required and unexcused absences will affect your final grade.

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Equivalents and Course Equivalent Request Process (CER) Each course you take abroad must be assigned a UW-Madison “equivalent” course in order for your grades and credits to be recorded on your UW-Madison transcript. In order to establish UW-Madison course equivalents for your study abroad courses, you will submit Course Equivalent Requests through your My Study Abroad account. Detailed information on the UW course equivalent process that you will use through your My Study Abroad account is available in the IAP Study Abroad Handbook. For course equivalent requests for tutorials and independent study projects, students must show the parallels between the requested course description and the work in India by submitting a detailed syllabus outlining specific course objectives, content, methodology, bibliography, weekly contact hours, and evaluation procedures (exams, papers, homework, etc.). This should be completed on a Syllabus form and NOT a Directed Study form. Prior to departure, speak with your major advisor(s) to get all the information you need concerning graduation and degree/major requirements. This information will guide the focus of your tutorials and independent study project so that you can make the best possible effort to fulfill these requirements. It is important to get a head start on this process before your departure. Transcripts, Credits and Grades UW-Madison students: Once all of your course equivalents have been processed and your grades received from the Varanasi program staff, you be sent a grade report for review through your MyStudyAbroad account. Once you sign off on your grade report, IAP will post your credits and grades to your student record at UW-Madison. Non-UW students: Make sure you understand how the credit transfer process operates at your home campus. After you return from study abroad, most campuses will require you to submit syllabi and written work completed abroad before they are able to process course equivalent requests. It is your responsibility to retain all copies of these documents even though copies have been submitted to our office for the course equivalent process. It is most likely that the final steps of this process can be carried out only after you return to your home campus after you have come back from your study abroad site, although preliminary authorization is often needed. You will receive a UW-Madison transcript for the India program. After IAP receives grades from India and all of your course equivalent requests have been processed, IAP will send you an initial grade report through your MyStudyAbroad account for review. You should review the courses you took, the grades you received and the UW-Madison equivalents granted to the courses you took; if you agree with what is posted on your grade report you will need to approve the grade report in order for us to report your grades officially to the UW-Madison Registrar’s Office. It takes 5-10 business days to post the grades to your UW-Madison record once the Registrar’s Office receives notification from IAP. After the courses and grades have been posted to your student record, you will need to follow the instructions on the UW-Madison Office of Registrar’s website in order to request a transcript from the UW-Madison. http://ordertranscript.wisc.edu/ IAP cannot request UW-Madison transcripts for students; it is the students’ responsibility to request that the transcript be sent to their home university. Grade reports will also be sent to the Smith College study abroad office for Smith students; but if needed, Smith students are still responsible for ordering their own transcripts to be sent to Smith.

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AESOP (students participating on this program from sponsoring Big Ten schools): You will not receive a UW-Madison transcript. A grade report will be forwarded to your home institution’s study abroad office and they will post your credits and grades to your home institution’s transcript.

HOUSING Permanent Housing You will be given the opportunity to choose your housing option after arrival to Varanasi, and during the 3 day orientation. You will have the opportunity to visit various options so that you can see the physical space and supplies provided in the room and meet with the owners of the property. By the end of the 3rd day of the orientation, you will need to have made your choice for housing. Program staff will then assist you with moving into your accommodations, by making arrangements for transportation and assisting with shopping for various items that you may need for your specific housing arrangement. While choosing between a home stay or an apartment there are some key points to keep in mind. Home Stay: While living in a home with an Indian family there are certain rules you must follow as well as expectations that the family will have of you. Your family will expect you to be home by curfew, which is between 8:30 and 9:00 pm, and to eat evening and weekend meals with them. Choosing to live with a host family will provide you with a much deeper understanding of the culture and provide many opportunities for improving your language skills. Also realize that since the host family is providing you with all meals during the weekend and dinner during the week, this option is more expensive. Apartments: The concept of an apartment in India is completely different from that of the United States. The landlord is usually a family member who lives in the building who also has expectations of you as a tenant. There is a curfew, which is 10 pm and you are not permitted to have visitors, save other program participants. Standard apartments typically have one bedroom with a private bathroom. Landlords do still feel a sense of responsibility to the students, so it may seem like a home stay. Unlike a homestay, you may not be expected to tell your landlord what you are doing when you leave, and when you will return. An apartment may also provide the opportunity to eat meals and spend time with local Banarsis of a difference class or caste (who may not be welcome in your apartment). If the family has agreed to call the room you are renting an “apartment,” this must say something about their expectations of you within their home. In either case, the best and most effective remedy for confusion about your and your landlord’s expectations is communication. If you feel this isn’t working, you can always contact the Program Director. Cost of Housing The homestay and apartment costs range anywhere from 4,500 – 6,500 rupees. Depending on your arrangement, you may set up a plan which will include a certain amount of meals per week, or laundry service, etc. This should not add significantly to the cost of your homestay. Whichever method you choose, it is important to know that any alcohol or late night parties are not permitted. Students must pay rent at the beginning of each month. In early summer, students will be given a housing preference form to complete and return to IAP. This form will be given to the Program Director.

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Rules and recommendations regarding electricity use in your homestay/apartment The Indian electrical system requires that homeowners pay charges to the government dependent on the amount of electricity used. Appliances designed for the US electrical system (hair dryers, lamps, cameras, laptops, etc) increase electricity consumption significantly for the family. If consumption of electricity exceeds a certain limit, your landlord may ask you to pay additional charges for usage. Many electrical gadgets are not suitable for Indian electrical sockets and if the proper adapter is not used, it blows a fuse in the lamp post and the family has to pay a fine to the electrical department. During power cuts, most of the families use batteries which cannot be used to charge your electronics. Nitish Dave, the administrative Assistant will facilitate a thorough discussion about this with your landlord before you move in. If needed, Nitish will arrange for you to consult with the local electricians or professionals for advice.

PROGRAM HOUSE AND STAFF Program House The primary purpose of the University of Wisconsin Program House is to meet the needs of current program participants. Not only is the Program House a learning environment, it is also an office and a place for business. All classes and some tutorial meetings are held at the Program House. The Program House has the office, library and computer rooms, student's lounge/resource room and the kitchen. Throughout the academic year, mail is delivered to the Program House. Breakfast and lunch are also served here and safe drinking water is available from the kitchen. Responsibility for matters pertaining to the Program House rests with the Program Director.

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Program House Rules

1. The Program House is common space for all students. Please be respectful of everyone. We would like to maintain a formal atmosphere, since this is also the place business associates are invited.

2. Please dress appropriately in the Program House and anywhere you go in Varanasi. The dress code recommended for women are Salwar Kameez, long formal pants and Kurtas or shirts, and long skirts with long tops with sleeves. For men, formal pants and shirts. Please do not wear clothing apparels such as torn jeans, colourful lungis, unbuttoned shirts, low hip pants (showing part of under garments), tank tops, short sleeveless shirts and t-shirts anywhere in Varanasi. If you do not like the Indian clothing, you can buy good cotton fabric and design pants and shirts that cover you well and are modest enough for Varanasi standards. Observing formal dress code gives you the biggest advantage of building up rapport with Varanasi residents.

3. Please keep the dining area clean. If you are eating a snack or drinking, please clean up after yourself.

4. Please take responsibility for whatever articles you bring into the program house.

5. Cooperate with the cooks in keeping the program house clean and tidy.

6. Inform the office staff if you are not coming for one or two program meals. This will help the cooks to avoid wastages.

7. Alcohol is not allowed in the Program House. Use of narcotics and marijuana or other substances is prohibited. It is a serious offense, as per the local law to be found in possession of these substances, or to be found using those.

8. Please do not smoke inside the building, not even on the Program House roof.

9. You are financially responsible for any program furniture or equipment both in the program house or the furniture and equipments loaned to you. Please handle them all carefully.

Program Ground Rules

Extended absences away from the program are not allowed and are grounds for termination from the program. You must inform the Program Director of any extended travel plans, even during vacation days. An unexcused absence from the program when classes are in session is grounds for dismissal from the program.

Owning and/or operating a scooter/motorbike is not allowed and is grounds for termination from the program.

Mutual respect between students, Program Director, instructors/advisors, staff and UW-Madison faculty liaisons.

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Respect for individual differences, including religion, ethnic background, race, national background, sexual orientation, political views, age, and gender.

Take responsibility for yourself, your learning, your actions, your belongings, and for your impact on local culture. Do not do things that inhibit the learning or experiences of others. Strive for long-lasting, positive and appropriate relationships and always consider the consequences of your actions before carrying them out.

Feel empowered to contribute your ideas even if you think they’re not popular. It is from diversity of thought that learning occurs.

Speak only for yourself unless you have permission to speak for someone else.

Strive to maintain open communication with the group, program faculty and staff, home-stay families, and community contacts. Talk about issues/concerns early, before they get out of hand.

Consideration for others and common courtesy are required in all program situations.

Personal health and safety are of primary importance. Do not do anything to put yourself or anyone else at unnecessary risk.

The burden of adaptation lies with you; living just as you would at home is not acceptable here. Don’t put your desires before the desires of your homestay family or landlord. Although communication can be difficult, it is the most important tool in avoiding misunderstandings and ensuring a rewarding experience for everyone.

Feel free to discuss any concern, with the Program Director. In case of emergency never hesitate to contact the program director or any staff on the mobile, 24X7.

- Adapted from SIT India Orientation Packet

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Program Staff Dr. V.A.Vidya ("Vidya"), Program Director

The Program Director works with the UW-Madison faculty liaisons on the academic components of the program (works with students to identify independent study topics and advisors, arranges tutorial instructors for students, and coordinates the Hindi Retreat), manages the program budget and facilitates communication between the site and the International Academic Programs in Madison. She also work closely with students in selecting their housing in Varanasi, arranges group outings, concerts and lectures for the program, sets up program excursions, conducts orientations, serves as a cultural liaison to the students about daily life and adjusting to life in India.

Virendra-ji Singh Hindi Instructor

Virendra-ji is a Hindi language instructor. He has been working for the program since the 1970s.

Vimal-ji Mehra Hindi Instructor

Vimal-ji is a Hindi language instructor. He has been working with the program since 1997.

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Nitish Dave Administrative Assistant

Nitish Dave works closely with the Program Director. He handles the FRRO registration, finding houses for the students, maintains the library, classroom resources, and the computers. Under the supervision of Program Director, he takes care of all the other student related services.

Sharda-ji and Champa-ji Program Cooks

Sharda-ji and Champa-ji have been with the program for many years. Sharda-ji is the head cook. Both cooks prepare the menu and meals for the program house, serve tea and clean and maintain the program house.

Pandit-ji Office Assistant

Pandit-ji has worked with the Program for several years in the capacity of Office Assistant. He buys food for the program house, takes care of the incoming and outgoing mail and maintains the program house bicycles.

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Banaras Hindu University (BHU) BHU ranks among the top in the country in the field of academic and research output. The university has two campuses, three institutes, sixteen facilities, 140 departments, four advanced centers and four interdisciplinary schools. BHU has nearly 20,000 students including 2500 research scholars and 650 foreign students from thirty-four nations. Indian nationalists established the University in 1916 as an alternative to such British-founded universities as those in Calcutta, Bombay and Madras. The program often looks to BHU for tutors, music, painting, or dance, and advisors.

PREPARING FOR VARANASI Varanasi is the ancient holy city of India. Because it is located on the banks of the Ganga (Ganges) river, which according to legend flows from the hair of Lord Shiva, it is the sacred city of the Hindus who come from near and far to bathe and to die here. It is said that bathing in the Ganga frees one of one’s sins, and having one’s ashes immersed into its waters can release one from the cycle of reincarnation.

Buddhists come here to visit nearby Sarnath where Buddha preached his first sermon. Sarnath is located about 12 km or 7 miles from the Wisconsin Program House. Here are five temples, Burmese,

Varanasi

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Japanese, and Indian, dedicated to Buddha, along with a Jain temple and a museum containing the lion capital of the Asokan Pillar, which is now the symbol of the Indian government. Also, there are remains of monasteries and stupas and a deer park. Pre-departure Refer to the Pre-Departure Checklist on pages four and five of the IAP Study Abroad Handbook for essential information. Health

Immunization Information Please work with your healthcare provider to determine what immunizations are needed for your study abroad time in India. Information can also be found at the Center for Disease Control’s (CDC) website www.cdc.gov The UW-Madison University Health Services (UHS) also has a travel clinic. To schedule an appointment at UHS, call 265-5600 between 8:30am and 5pm, Monday through Friday. You must be a registered student at UW-Madison to be seen at UHS. If you are enrolled in SASLI summer language courses at UW-Madison and are not a UW-Madison degree-seeking student, your eligibility at UHS will begin in May. UHS asks that you bring a complete copy of your immunization records to your scheduled appointment. The appointment can take up to an hour and a half. You should check with your health insurance to see what coverage you have for immunizations, as they can be expensive. Not all insurances will cover immunizations at UHS.

Medicines Students should discuss with their healthcare provider what medication they should take with them to India. If you do need a prescription drug or take a specific type of vitamin, you may need to take with you a full year's supply, since you cannot count on getting it in India. Do not pack all your prescription drugs in one bag but spread them around among your bags and take some in your carry-on in case something happens to your luggage. Carry a written prescription with you so you can produce it on demand. The prescription drug industry in India is large; so the chances are quite good that you will be able to get any common medicine you need--and that it will be much cheaper in India. This includes cold medicine, allergy medicine, antibiotic ointment, band-aids, aspirin, cough medicine and Lomotil or Immodium (for diarrhea). The availability of Meflaquine and Malarone (for malaria) varies from year to year. Though birth control pills are becoming widely available in India, women should be reminded that they might not be able to find the same pill that they are currently taking. If this might be an issue, women should plan on bringing a year’s supply of their birth control pill, or any other items you need to maintain sexual health.

Glasses If you wear glasses, bring a copy of your prescription. Good, sometimes great glasses are available for 1000 – 2000 rupees (roughly 20-40 dollars). Contact lenses are okay, but keeping them dust-free can be a problem. Daily contact lenses are the best option if they are available for your prescription.

Personal Supplies The following are not available or are not very good in India:

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o Stick deodorant o Good sunscreen o Nail files o Tampax tampons o Bug repellant with DEET o Contact lens solution o And if allergic to aspirin, you will need to bring Ibuprofen, though there is an

international brand of Ibuprofen that is available in some stores.

The following are readily available in India as there are many stores that have western brand products available – Krishna Trading Company in Lanka (10 minutes walk from Program House) or Srinivas & Sons in Assi (10 minutes walk from Program House) are both good options for these supplies.

o Contact lens solution o Chap stick o Bathroom toiletries (shampoo and conditioner, toilet paper, soap, toothpaste, shaving

cream, razors, facial cleansers, moisturizer, toothbrushes, Q-tips (or “buds” as they are called in South Asia)

o Handkerchiefs o Bug repellants (coils and mats for the house and a good repellant for the body called

Odomos) o Household disinfectants and abrasive cleaners.

Personal Supplies for Women Sanitary napkins are now widely available in India, and not just the bulky maxi-pads. Many different brands and varieties are available. However tampons in India are in limited variety, there are OB Tampons (limited) but Tampax tampons are not available. What is important to remember is that sanitary supplies will not flush down Indian toilets. Despite their increasingly common use, these products are not flushed but rather they can be seen lying around trash piles (or in the middle of the street.) Many women carry around their waste materials in a paper or plastic container until they find a discreet place to dispose of them. So a plastic tote bag is handy for carrying around a few extras (and used) products. While this may seem strange here, when you get to India it will make perfect sense.

Packing The question of what to take and not to take to India is a difficult one. Avoid taking things to India you would be heartbroken to lose. Thefts do occur, and things get lost. This list should help you to decide which things you want to bring and which you want to buy in India by giving you an idea of what's available in India and what is not. The program provides a bed, mattress, sheets, blanket, pillow, pillowcase, towel, and a mosquito net for each student. These are program property and need to remain with the program upon your departure. If you lose one of these items you will need to replace it. Luggage A quantity of, at least, three bags are suggested: 1) One large bag or suitcase for the majority of clothing and items, which will remain in Varanasi and be used for international travel between the United States and India.

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2) One traveling backpack with a back frame and waist strap for long treks or travel between semesters or after the program ends. 3) One smaller backpack for day trips-(about the size of a school bag/Jansport bag). If you plan to go trekking, a daypack, bungee cords, and a lightweight plastic parka (it rains much more in the mountains than on the plains) are all useful. **Women may also want to bring a cross-body bag as a purse as they are most convenient and are a safe way to carry about personal belongings. Clothing In South Asia, dress is an important social marker. A neat appearance is very important to South Asians, and, unless people are completely destitute, they will bathe and wash and iron their clothes daily. In this context, it is understandable that people will take offense at an American who cannot be bothered to bathe or wear clean or un-ripped clothing (but can afford to travel to the other side of the world for college credit). Dressing in Indian clothing can be appropriate in most circumstances. If you dress in Western clothes, you will often be taken for a tourist. If you choose to wear Indian clothes, wear them properly so you do not make a spectacle of yourself or offend your hosts. For women this means not wearing a petticoat and sari blouse without a sari. While it might look like an outfit in the United States, it is underwear in India! People will usually be impressed and flattered that you are wearing their style of clothing. Both Indian and Western dress are appropriate, a student should not feel like s/he must wear Indian clothing to be accepted. Wear what is comfortable, as long as cultural modesty is kept in mind. For example, stomachs, shoulders, backs, and thighs, should be covered at all times. Shopping in bazaars for clothing can be the source of many days and nights of entertainment. Shops are usually open late. Shopping offers a great chance to interact with society and to use growing language skills. When you make male or female friends, a great thing to do is to ask them where they buy their clothes or what tailor they use and to ask for their help. Wearing the style of clothing that college students wear can both mark your respect for the culture and become a shared experience opening doors to contacts and friendships. However, the most important factor is that you are comfortable in what you wear. You should not feel forced to wear anything you do not like or feel comfortable in, which may change. There are plenty of college-age women in India who wear jeans and t-shirts daily, however this is seldom seen in Varanasi. What you wear may or may not make you feel more or less accepted - it differs from person to person. The key is to try different styles of clothing and see what feels right to you. It is also important to dress according to the occasion. Just as your verbal formality changes, so should your appearance. For example, do not wear shorts or jeans when going to meet with an instructor/advisor. Students will be taken clothes shopping upon arrival in Delhi and again in Varanasi. A basic outfit for a female student will cost about Rs. 600 for the material and stitching while a basic outfit for a male student will cost about Rs. 700 for the material and stitching. It is advisable for female students to have about five Indian style outfits to start out with. People will vary a great deal in what they want/need to bring with them for their stay in India. Here is a minimal packing list and some ideas of what to bring (and what you can buy in India). But just

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remember: there are over 1,000,000,000 people living in India right now who are writing letters, bathing, shaving, getting haircuts, washing their clothes, riding bicycles, carrying umbrellas, taking pictures, and dressing up for formal occasions without bringing anything from the United States. Women

2 pair jeans or long skirt 2 long cotton shirts 2 T-shirts 1 flannel shirt, sweatshirt or lightweight sweater 1 sweater or fleece coat 1 nice outfit (for evenings out in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata) Cotton underwear, bras, and socks (stressed - BRING LOTS) Sleepwear – 1 pair of sleeping shorts and a T-shirt Sandals (readily available in India, but possibly not in the biggest sizes) 1 pair sneakers Hiking boots (if you plan to do serious hiking) 1 Bathing suit For women, it is also important to dress appropriately when attending festivals or performances or on an outing with their host family. For these types of events traditional clothing is highly recommended. Men 2 pair jeans/khaki pants 2 long button-down or cotton shirts 1 pair of shorts 2 T-shirts 1 flannel shirt, sweatshirt or lightweight sweater 1 sweater or fleece coat Cotton underwear and socks (Bring LOTS of these) Sleepwear – 1 pair of sleeping shorts and a T-shirt Sandals (readily available in India, but possibly not in the biggest sizes) 1 pair sneakers Hiking boots (if you plan to do serious hiking) 1 Bathing suit

Comfortable cotton clothes are readily available everywhere in India. And what you cannot buy ready-made, you can have stitched for ½ the price! Tailors are cheap and highly skilled at copying garments or making things from pictures. If you have a favorite dress, skirts, or pants that you would like copied, definitely bring it. It is recommended that you start slow, having one thing made at a time until you learn more about the clothing and tailoring (you do not want to get eight shirts made at once to find out later that they are all too small or a style you really do not like). It is also okay to tell a tailor that you want the outfit they made changed.

There are a plethora of shawls and scarves in every shop. Do not pack any.

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Sandals are readily available, including dressy leather ones and rubber flip-flops that most people wear. But if your feet are very large, you may have to bring your size from the United States. You will be wearing sandals most of the time; so one pair of walking shoes should be enough. But if your feet require arch supports, buy a good pair of sandals before you leave. Hiking boots are unnecessary unless you are actually going for a serious trek in the mountains. Most places where people trek have trails for which athletic shoes are fine.

The 24-hour temperatures in Varanasi range from 85-120º in May to 40-70ºF in January. Since you will not be there during monsoon season, it rarely/if ever rains in Varanasi from August to April. Therefore, to save space, it is a good idea to buy umbrellas and rain gear when you arrive in India (if needed). For a brief period of 7-8 weeks from the 3rd week of December to 3rd week of February, you may need heavy sweaters, woolen socks and some warm clothing.

Students will have the opportunity to have their laundry washed by Dhobis, washers, daily or bi-daily for only a few rupees. Bringing your laundry to the Dhobis is a great way to get involved in the community, practice Hindi, and learn about life in India. It is suggested that women wash their own undergarments.

Miscellaneous Sleeping Bag: useful in the winter as a blanket and when traveling on trains or in the mountains. Nothing as light and compact as a sleeping bag is available there. Many students have made a sleeping bag from two sheets; this is easy to travel with and ideal for train travels in the summer. Water Bottle: high quality plastic bottle (Nalgene) or a canteen has the advantage that you can pour boiled water into it before cooling it. Both are hard to find in India and are necessary for travel. Waterproof Sandals (water-rafting sandals): students have found waterproof sandals to be comfortable and easy to wear in monsoon weather and for hiking, since they are a good inch from the ground. Movies: Be sure to bring LOTS of your favorite DVDs. English films are not commonly sold in Varanasi and since there is not much to do after it gets dark it is common to spend nights in, dinner and a movie-style. Movies are also a great way to improve your language skills so consider buying Indian films as well. Musical Instruments: consider carefully the weight and hassle of bringing an instrument versus its importance to you. If you bring an instrument, you should also bring any necessary accessories like sheet music, strings, capos, etc. Household Supplies: most people will be living in apartments either independently or shared. There are a few things you might be glad to have: can opener, zip-lock plastic bags (bring several sizes), 1 or 2 number-combination locks, and a Swiss Army-style knife. Books: The program maintains its own library which has hundreds of books in all Indian subjects. It is a fantastic resource. Consult with the Varanasi Program Staff and your fellow participants before buying any books to take to India with you. If you choose to purchase additional books related to your tutorial or independent study project to take with you to India, you may request the program to buy these

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books from you at the end of your program. Depending on library needs and budget, as well as program discretion, the program may be willing to buy certain books from you. Recording Equipment: Most electronic and photographic equipment of high international quality is available in India. However, digital voice recorders are not that common or easy to buy in India. A tape recorder is an important tool for research. A rechargeable unit is a big advantage. But, if you bring any electrical appliance, remember that the local power supply is 220 volts (50 cycles); so you should bring a small step-down transformer (sometimes called a converter). Another option that has worked for students in the past is the recorder attachment for the ipod. This can be purchased in States and is small and easy to pack. Since many students already bring their ipods, this attachment is seen as very useful. Computers in India Many things can go wrong with computers when traveling abroad including electrical, software, hardware damage etc. There is always the possibility of theft and, even more possible, breakage. Computer maintenance facilities for IBMs are available in India. However, this is not the case with Macintoshes. WIFI is also available at the Program House when the internet is functioning. There are computers at the program house and the program house is open Monday- Friday until 5 p.m. Students can usually access the internet from the program house computers. If you are bringing a computer, consider the following:

1. Before you leave the United States, call your computer dealer to verify the latest conventional wisdom regarding traveling with a computer.

2. A flash drive to backup and save all work. 3. Take a copy of your installation software. In case you need to do a system restore.

If you own a Mac, consider purchasing a program for the Mac called PC Exchange (this now comes with new Macs). This program will allow you to format disks in IBM format. Options in many Mac word processors allow you to save in a format that MAY be understood by IBM software. For example, Microsoft Word allows you to save in a format designed for different versions of Word. Complex formatting (footnotes, styles, etc.) can be lost in conversion. CAUTION: take care when preparing to return to the United States, as some programs may not easily convert. You will want travel insurance for your computer (preferably for both theft and breakage). Filing proper police forms for the in-India theft of your computer and explaining to the customs officials why you are leaving India without the computer you entered with may be a difficult matter. You will also want to make sure that your computer is under warranty (most companies sell extended warranties for their machines when the purchase warranty runs out). While you may not be able to get your computer serviced in India under the warranty, you will be able to get your computer serviced when you return to the United States. Verify that your computer can function on 220 volts (India's voltage). Many computers can work on both 110v and 220v, (where the power-supply self-adjusts to the voltage level), and all you will need is a plug-adapter and a CVT. If your computer does not self-adjust to the voltage level, you will need a converter. It’s also a good idea to pay attention to the heat of your computer and your adapter.

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Money The best way to travel around India is with an ATM card. There are ATMs in every city. When in Varanasi, students should only go to the ATM during hours when they know there will be electricity and no power cuts. Students in the past have said that the best way to manage money in India is to take out money once a month because ATM fees in India and then with your banks at home can add up. Students should take out enough money to pay rent as well as for personal purchases. Students should be advised not to carry large amounts of Rupees with them, but at least 500 Rupees for emergencies. Varanasi’s Weather Arriving in Varanasi in late August, one hits the tail end of the summer monsoons. By this time, the rains are a week or two apart; the temperature rises slightly with the consequent clearing of skies. After the middle of October, the temperature gradually falls, but the cool breeze of the winter monsoon is not felt before November. Relief from mosquitoes continues from November to the end of February. The cold weather (when the temperature varies from 40-70 degrees F) extends from the middle of December to the middle of February. The temperature drops below 40 degrees F at night. From March on, the temperature rises very rapidly, reaching a peak in April / May when the range is from 85-120 degrees F.

CUSTOMS, EXPECTATIONS AND CULTURAL INTEGRATION Some Guidelines for living in an Indian environment A successful study abroad experience is based on courtesy, compromise and adaptation. You will be living in a foreign community with markedly different values from your own. As a result, it is your responsibility to compromise and adapt in order to live harmoniously in this new culture. If you take initiative and maintain open communication, you may find that your friends and host family will be more than willing to meet you halfway. Remember, your actions reflect not only on yourself, but on the entire program as well! Male/ Female Interactions Know the appropriate boundaries. In India it is not appropriate for a man to touch a woman in public or to talk to a woman he doesn't know (i.e. ask for friendship, a walk, a movie, etc.) and vice versa. Be wary of receiving and making inappropriate advances; the same rules of courtesy applicable to American culture are not valid in India. Try not to let members of the opposite sex enter your room unsupervised. Likewise, don’t make someone else uncomfortable by putting them in the reverse position. Keep the door open, or meet them in a public part of the house. Otherwise what might simply be a friendly encounter might be construed as promiscuity, which is not the type of reputation you wish to accrue in India. For women students in particular, such behavior can only increase the harassment they might encounter. Female students should not be observed drinking in place where people from their neighborhood can observe them. Drinking is associated with promiscuity and may incite harassment. Moreover, female students MUST be aware of the implications in accepting alcohol from a male, whether he is a total stranger or not. While you may feel inclined to accept drinks socially, as one would in America, such

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behavior may open the door to awkward misunderstandings and inappropriate flirtatious advances. Where students are offered a drink within the family home by host fathers or mothers, there is no cause for alarm, however it is still best avoided. Romantic relationships with members of the local community should be avoided!!! Our concept of dating is not synonymous with the Indian concept of dating, especially in a small-ish city like Varanasi, and can have drastic consequences for both partners. Unfortunately, women are frequently harassed both verbally and physically in India, where verbal harassment, called ‘Eve teasing,’ is rampant and moderately socially acceptable. Women - if you are ever harassed or groped in public while in the company of other women, make your complaint as vociferous and loud as possible. Attracting the attention of people in the crowd can lead to public embarrassment for the perpetrator, which may make him think twice before he harasses someone again. Both men and women in the crowd can often be very supportive, since the majority of people on the streets do not support such behavior and almost all have sisters or daughters of their own. Courtesy, Cleanliness, and Customs of Courteous Behavior Common rules of courtesy apply to any situation, but you might want to keep the following tips in mind for your stay in India. You will find that many actions associated with courteous behavior and cleanliness in the U.S. does not have the same meaning in India, and vice versa. Here is a short list of do's and don'ts for you to add to over the course of the year:

Please do your best to be respectful to the people associated with the program in culturally appropriate ways. The future of the program and its continued good relationship with its surrounding community depend on this.

When at someone's house, sit cross-legged or with your feet folded underneath you - you want to make sure that you don't point your feet at anyone, since this will be construed as an insult. If a chair is offered however, avoid tucking your feet up on the chair as this is too casual.

Try not to hand anything (i.e. money, a gift, etc.) to anyone with your left hand - use your right hand whenever possible. The left hand is considered your ‘soiled’ hand, because it is the one designated for the toilet.

Always eat with your right hand (never with your left). It is perfectly acceptable, however, to use your left hand to pick up your glass, etc., if your right hand is soiled with food.

Don't share food off of your plate while eating a meal. Once you've started your meal, the food will be considered JhuuThaa (unclean/used/not fit for consumption by others).

Water washes away all. It is the universal purifier. Those of you who are encountering the "Indian toilet" for the first time may find it difficult to accept. However, it is considered by many to be much cleaner than our paper-heavy system, since paper does nothing more than move the impurity from one place to another, while water has the ability to purify all. Some people find it immensely funny (and simply disgusting) that people in the West use toilet paper. Everything is a frame of mind.

The use of courtesy formulas such as thank you, please or the use of giving and accepting compliments is very different in India. The verbalization of such formulaic expressions is very limited. Though verbalization of gratitude is appreciated, it is not always expected.

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Indian society enjoys its hierarchical social structure. People in the younger age group are expected to initiate greetings. So please, when you encounter an elder, offer them the appropriate, “Namaskar”.’

When addressing or talking about others who are in the older age group or are socially senior (e.g., older brother’s wife, teacher) it is appropriate not to address them or talk about them by their first name. Some socially appropriate honorific prefix or suffix or the use of a kinship term is often needed. Do not blow your nose into a napkin or a handkerchief in the company of others. The best way to do it is to go aside and do it.

Student-Teacher Relationship Student-teacher relationships in India and the United States are noticeably different. You do not address your teacher by first name, even if your teacher is younger than you! Some honorific linguistic device (e.g., ji after the first name) is expected. Students in India do not challenge their teachers’ authority and knowledge. One listens to one’s teachers with respect and reverence. There is a belief that one needs respect and reverence for one’s teacher to receive knowledge. It should go without saying that demonstrating respect for your teachers means not slouching, sleeping, gum chewing, note passing, and talking amongst yourselves. The UW-Madison instructors likewise receive orientation about their students’ needs and are therefore better equipped to meet them halfway. They are friendly and, unlike many other Indian teachers, encourage their students to ask questions and engage them in interactive dialogues. Your cooperation with them in the maintenance of a good learning environment is important. Also, if there is a problem we encourage you not to hesitate to let the appropriate authority know about it. When studying an art form in a traditional teacher/student set-up, part of the learning process is learning how to navigate the teacher/ student dynamic. In most situations any comparison with a Western model, in which you pay a teacher a fee and in return you get a one-hour lesson, does not apply. The teacher will probably welcome you into his/her family and home, with attendant expectations. Often you will come for class and find that the teacher is not there or has other plans than teaching you. You may be expected to do minor chores (like stringing an instrument if you know how to) or accompany the teacher on outings. If you feel uncomfortable with demands that you do not consider part of your teaching "contract" then do please talk to the program director. You should never do anything that takes you well out of your comfort zone. However, joining in with family activities and the like may not be what you had in mind when you signed up for sitar lessons (for example), but it will give you a valuable glimpse into how in traditional India knowledge is disseminated. Make your observations on the teacher/student dynamic part of your journal and part of your overall learning process. Home-stay Guidelines Following are a few home-stay guidelines based on feedback from other students and families. Always remember, we are all here to help you and hope that you will feel comfortable coming to us with any questions or concerns during the course of the semester.

The most important thing you can do for a successful homestay experience is to keep the channels of communication open. If you are not sure how, what or when to do something, ask! No question is a stupid question, and speaking up can save embarrassing or awkward moments.

The burden of adaptation lies with you. Discuss potential differences and confusing points so that everyone is satisfied. Although communication can be difficult, it is the most important tool

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in avoiding misunderstandings and assuring a rewarding experience for everyone. Bottling-up emotions is unhealthy and unproductive. If you are in a delicate situation that you are unable to understand, discuss it with the Program Director immediately.

Remember that in any situation with new roommates there are both smooth and awkward moments. Give everyone, including yourself, time to get used to new personalities, schedules, habits, etc.

Although you will be treated like a member of the family, don’t forget your manners! Eating all the food in the fridge, being a slob, or demonstrating rude behavior won’t leave a good impression. At the end of the home-stay, you may leave a thank-you note and/or a small token of your appreciation for your host family and for staff with whom you feel this is appropriate.

In India, it is unusual and unacceptable that elders are called casually by their first names. India maintains strong hierarchical structures, and the ideals of respect are a predominant part of the culture. We recommend that you maintain the respectful cultural norms when you make initial introductions and continue this throughout your stay in the host country.

Your home-stay families expect you to return home by a certain agreed time in the evening. If you are late and don’t inform them, they will be worried about your safety. If you are going to be late, call your family and let them know your plans. This simple courtesy could save you endless grief!

This is a rigorous program academically and, at times, physically. On top of this, your family may want you to participate in all family activities, and they will definitely want to “show you off” to their family and friends. While this can be great fun, it should not interfere with your homework time. Keep your family posted about your workload as the semester progresses, and don’t be afraid to turn down an invitation so that you can complete your work or have some down-time.

Indians are very hospitable. Bear in mind that most Indians won’t say “no” when you ask their permission. If you have any doubts about the appropriateness of your request or their offer, check with program staff beforehand.

Using the family’s telephone, computer and internet on a regular basis is not a good idea. Your family probably won’t say “no” when you ask their permission, but they may end-up quite frustrated paying extra bills and/or limiting their own access to these facilities.

If you're female, you might want to keep some distance between yourself and male family members. They may be your host relatives, but they are not your blood relatives.

If there are items that you don't want people to see, keep them in a locked cupboard, trunk or bag. This is not considered at all offensive to your host family – in fact many may recommend that you do so. Our concept of privacy in the U.S. is not the same as that which you will encounter in India.

No one in your home-stay family, including household servants, should ask you for money. If this happens, please let the Program Director know immediately.

In the case of a conflict (i.e. disagreement about curfew, boundaries of privacy, or even harassment) with your host family, try to work through the program before tackling the issue on your own.

Some of you may have young brothers and sisters in the house. While they can be great fun, they can also be pesky. If you find this is a problem, don’t be afraid to tell them “no!”

Don’t feel obligated to eat or drink anything that you don’t want to, or that may make you sick. You can always bow out of it by blaming your sensitive foreign tummy.

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Don’t be afraid to say “no” to second helpings at dinner. Indian hospitality can be overabundant. While a day of uncomfortable overeating happens to all of us from time to time, months of it will only make you miserable

There will be both happy and awkward times with your family. This is natural and normal for people living together in any circumstance. Just remember that we all have good intentions, and the most important way to avoid problems is to keep open lines of communication!

- Home stay Guidelines were adapted from SIT India Orientation Packet

Avoid Discussing Sensitive Topics with Local People Politics and religious conflict are two sensitive topics and people can get at times emotional about their viewpoints. In such cases, it is best to listen to others and not to get involved in any argument. Alternatively, Indians are more liberal in sharing personal information. Don’t be surprised or offended if Indians ask you what your salary is or if you’re married within the first five minutes of conversation! If you are uncomfortable, try to gently steer the conversation in another direction. Participation in the Public Sphere Certain kinds of behavior may be considered normal in many academic and/or professional situations in the US and in many cosmopolitan parts of India. In other parts of India, however, such behavior might be seen as inviting unwelcome sexual attention. This kind of attention can interfere with carrying out research. Most people, for example, recommend that female students not smoke in public, especially not in the company of males or by sharing the same cigarette. The same goes for public drinking of liquor. Likewise, male students should try to avoid being the cause for Indian women to end up in places, situations, or sections of town, or at times of day that might gain them disrepute. Furthermore, male students should ensure that their behavior towards women is not misunderstood. These guidelines need not be hard and fast rules (depending upon region and class), but you should be aware of, and whenever possible avoid transgressing, the norms of people with whom one is dealing.

- Some Guidelines for Living In An Indian Environment were adapted from SIT India Orientation Packet

HEALTH AND SAFETY Prevention Prevention is the name of the game. It is not fun to be sick and feeling lousy when you are in Asia. Although taking precautions may require a little extra time and forethought, they are well worth taking if they keep you healthy. As you read through this health information, please pay close attention to all the suggestions for preventing illness. Where adequate water-treatment and sewage disposal are not maintained, animal and human feces can readily contaminate water and food either directly or indirectly by flies and other insects. In markets, foods are often exposed to a variety of flies and other filth-bearing insects and are handled by numerous individuals who may be unacquainted with hygienic principles. In addition, such foods are frequently freshened by being sprinkled with contaminated water. Just because something "looks safe" to eat or drink does not mean that it IS safe to eat and drink. It is recommended that you only eat fruits that can be peeled.

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Water The water you are given at the Program House to drink is safe. Bottled water is also safe to purchase and drink. Do not drink tap water. Bottled water can be purchased from any shop. Go only for sealed bottled water marketed by coca cola or pepsi. They are called aqua fina or bisleri. You may also treat the water to make it drinkable; there are many ways of disinfecting water available at most camping supply stores. Students have used everything from iodine solutions to water-soluble iodine tablets. When you purchase a water purifier, you want to make sure that it is potent enough for the water in India. It is a good idea to check out your options with the CDC (Center for Disease Control) http://www.cdc.gov and your health care provider. Foods In most rural sections of Asia, meat inspection procedures are not maintained. Locally obtained meat must be thoroughly cooked in order to avoid tapeworm, trichinosis, and toxoplasmosis. In hot weather, even cooked meats can quickly spoil and become dangerous. It is virtually impossible to wash away all microorganisms from vegetables with many tiny cracks and crevices such as lettuce, celery and cabbage. It is, therefore, unwise to use these items for salads. On the other hand, tomatoes, cucumbers and onions with smooth skins, are easily washed and can be peeled. If you choose to eat salads, it is wise to restrict your salads to these items. Fruits and vegetables should be thoroughly washed with detergent and tap water to remove dirt and other extraneous materials. They should then be soaked in a disinfectant solution. Iodine in the form of Lugol's Solution, or Potassium Permanganate crystals obtained at the local chemist's, may be added to water until you have a solution the color of weak tea. You can then soak your fruits and vegetables in this solution for about 20 minutes and then rinse them thoroughly with boiled water if you want to wash away the disinfectant taste. Do not eat foods bought on the street because you do not know the water source used in preparation. Dairy Products Milk purchased from the local dairy, unless it has been approved by local health authorities, should be boiled before use. Avoid ice-cream unless you are certain of maintenance of minimum standards in its making. Packet milk such as “Amul Tazza” (a national brand) is safe to drink. You can eat ice-cream (ie, drumsticks, packaged ice-cream cones) if it is wrapped. Be sure that you are the one to open the wrapper. Air Quality The air in Varanasi is very dusty and polluted and can sometimes trigger reactions in students with Asthma or other breathing difficulties. This is worse in the early months of the fall semester and spring semester. Students are advised to speak with their doctor about suggestions for minimizing the impact of the inhalation of polluted air. Masks can be purchased in Varanasi but it is recommended that students with Asthma pack a mask in their luggage.

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WHAT TO DO AND GETTING AROUND Places of Interest in Varanasi Temples: Bharatmata Mandir, Durga Temple, Sankatamochan (Hanuman’s) Temple, Viswanath Temple (Golden Temple) and Nepali Temple. Ghats and Manamandir (Singh) observatory: The most interesting way to see most of this is by boat. You can take a large party down to Panchagana ghat (where mythically four rivers join the Ganga underground), then stop at the Nepali temple, Singh observatory, Aurangzeb’s mosque, Manikarnika ghat, Jalsain (burning) ghat, then get off at Dashseshwamedh ghat and go to the Golden Temple. Rates vary with the number of people in the party more than distance. Ramnagar Palace is directly across the Ganga from the University ghats and can be viewed from the Varanasi side, for a closer look go by rickshaw or boat. There is also a Durga Temple on the other side, as well as a large flatland where the Ramlila drama is reenacted during several weeks in October. Rajghat is a mound, which represents the ancient site of the city when it was situated on the Varuna and Ganga Rivers. Archaeological excavations undertaken by the Indology College have revealed signs of a city as far back as 1000 B.C.E. One day, Rajghat will represent an open history book through which students will walk through habitation levels from 1000 B.C.E. to the present. Also located at the Rajghat are the Sarva Seva Sangh(SSS) Prahashan and the Gandhian Institute of Studies (GIS). The SSS is the executive organ of the Gandhian Sarvodaya Movement. The SSS coordinates the gramdan programs in India and publishes a great deal of material on philosophy, economics, and social organization. The GIS undertakes research projects in community development and is the site for regular seminars, drawing many of India’s top economists. There is a good library at the GIS, and it is one of the only places with current periodicals. Also at Rajghat is located the Foundation for New Education, an experimental school designed to implement the ideas of philosopher, J. Krishnamurti. Annie Besant College for Women is also at Rajghat. Sarnath is a beautiful place for an all-day picnic. Come by auto rickshaw or bicycle, climb to the top of the stupa, see the museum and monastery, the pipal tree, the deer park under the shade of bamboo trees, relax, then see the little town, the Mahabodi society, the library, and stay for evening puja. The Sri Lankan monks perform their evening worship at about dusk in the Ceylonese (Sri Lankan) Temple. It is well worth staying to see; you sit on the rug before the golden Buddha as they chant. Then a boy carries the lantern, and the monks go out and do a brief puja before the stupa. The Cultural Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies is also located in Sarnath on a small, attractive campus. Favorite Shops The most successful way to get to know the shops is to explore. Going with an Indian friend who knows the prices can be helpful. Another point, which needs reemphasis, is the use of Hindi as an essential tool for making those contacts. After a few trips into the gullies, the shopkeepers will begin to recognize you and most are delighted to talk with you in Hindi. Even in the more westernized touristy shops, the use of Hindi is useful in getting fair prices.

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Shopping Areas The core of commercial activity conforms, more or less, with the heart of the city, the Chowk. This area is hemmed in between the Dasashwamedh-Godowlia road and Maidagin-Kabirchaura road. Gullies 1) Kachauri Gully- which begins on top of the hill in the center of Chowk, famous for sweetmeats, colored paper and for being one of the dirtiest gullies…it eventually runs onto 2) Vishwanath Gully-which is the main market for religious articles, brass, wooden toys and feminine commodities, jewelry, bindis, etc. 3) Kunji Gully- which runs from Chowk eastwards to Rajghat on the Ganga and is noted for the famous silk fabrics of Varanasi. It possesses the chief wholesale cloth market of the city. 4) Lohar Gully-(means blacksmith), which runs north of and parallel to the Kunji Gully has been the main shopping area for brass and copper wares since ancient times. Other areas Bisheswargani grain market, with its narrow cobblestone street, is an interesting place to visit; it is the oldest market in the city. Lanka is at the University gate ready to fulfill your immediate needs for a bit more money. The Sardar store is the closest thing to our dime stores. Malls There are also two malls in Varanasi, IP mall and JHV mall. Both have movie theaters, food courts, sunglass shops, high end Indian clothing stores, music and dvd stores. IP Mall has a Domino’s and both of the malls have a McDonalds. Transportation Forms of transportation within India vary. Auto rickshaws: a three-wheeled device powered by a motorcycle engine with a driver up front and seats for two (sometimes more) passengers behind. Most lack doors and have a canvas top over the part where passengers sit. They are also known as tuk-tuks. They are generally about half the price of a taxi; fares should be agreed upon in advance. Bicycle rickshaws: effectively a three-wheeled bicycle with a seat for two passengers behind the driver. Fares should be agreed upon in advance. Bicycle rickshaws are a common form of transportation that students take and do not cost that much. Taxis: Most towns have taxis (and in most major cities they are metered). Before getting into a taxi, you should have an idea of what the taxi ride should cost. You can also ask friends or the program director what the cost of your taxi should be. Trains: Some Indian cities have suburban train networks. The Indian Railways website is www.indianrailways.gov.in. For comprehensive online information about the Indian railway system look at www.seat61.com/India.htm; you can also find pictures of the different train classes on this website. Shatabdi express trains are same-day services between major and regional cities. These are the fastest and most expensive trains, with only two classes: AC executive chair and AC chair.

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Rajdhani express trains are long-distance express services between Delhi and state capitals, and offer AC 1st class, two-tier AC, three-tier AC, and 2nd class. Two-tier means that there are two levels of bunks in each compartment. Other express and mail trains have two-tier AC coaches, chair car, non-AC sleeper, non AC 2nd class and finally there’s unreserved tickers. Air: There are several low-cost domestic airlines within India. Air India www.airindia.com Kingfisher Airlines www.flykingfisher.com Jet Airways www.jetairways.com Indian Airlines www.indian-airlines.nic.in http://www.makemytrip.com This website is a great resource for finding cheap flights throughout India and South/South East Asia. Bicycles: The program will provide each student with a bicycle which must be returned at the end of the program. Students will have to pay a deposit of Rs 1000 to the Office Assistant to check out a bike. Upon return of the bike, the deposit will be refunded to the student. The student is responsible for paying an additional Rs1000 in the case of damage, lost, or stolen bicycles. Riding around is a great way to get to know the city, for free. Auto rickshaws and bicycle rickshaws are a common form of transportation that students take and do not cost that much. Books The bookstores of Varanasi have a very limited selection. In Chowk locality (by cycle rickshaw about 30 minutes from the Program House) Motilal Banarsi Das- is good for Indology books. Chowkambha Book Store - is good for Indology books. In Raj Ghat locality (by auto rickshaw about 1 hours from the Program House) Gandhian Institute - good for books on Gandhi and Vinoba. In Lanka locality (10 minute walk from Program House) People’s Book Stall Indica books- have an extensive collection and can order anything they do not have in stock. One part of the book store is in Assi Ghat (10 minute walk from the Program House) and another part of the bookstore is in Godolia locality (by cycle rickshaw about 20 minutes from the Program House). In Assi Ghat locality (10 minute walk from the Program House) Harmony Books - has the feel of an America bookstore. The owner also gives Wisconsin students a discount and can order anything he does not carry. Modern Indian literature in English, Modern Indian fiction, philosophy and many religious texts. Also has a good collection of anthropological books In Godolia locality (by cycle rickshaw about 20 minutes from the Program House).

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Universal Bookstore – good for Indiology, modern Indian history, modern Indian literature in English, Modern Indian fictions, philosophy, and many religious texts. They also have a good collection of anthropological books. In Durga Temple locality (10 minute walk from the Program House) Pilgrim Books – Good for religious books and music as well as modern Indian history. In Gurubagh locality (by cycle rickshaw about 20 minutes from the Program House) Oddysy - Good for religious books and music as well as modern Indian history. In Nichigagh (by cycle rickshaw about 30 minutes from the Program House) Sasta Sahitya – Good religious books and children’s stories. Delhi is the best place to buy books, especially on Modern India. For government publications, economics, law, sociology, etc., see Jain Book Agency, 69 Connaught Place. Allahabad and Lucknow also have a few good bookstores. Eating Out Assi Area: Haifa – good Middle Eastern tali and their Haifa special breakfast comes with hot chocolate. Karki’s – handmade pasta dishes are great. Yafah – also good Middle Eastern food and delicious pita bread. Open Hand – their mocha lattes and cheese cake are amongst our favorites. It operates as a shop with a café and is a great place to study with free wireless access. Om Cafe– open for breakfast and lunch. It is a vegan restaurant with delicious breakfast burritos. It has free wireless access. Hayat- known for its Middle Eastern food, with tasty lafahs and pizza. It also has hookah, but it is a pricier choice for food. The Pizzeria- located on Assi ghat. It has great apple pie and pizza. Godowlia: Phulwari- has a great ambience and comfortable sofas with great Middle Eastern food. Bread of Life- on the way to Godowalia, it has cookies, cakes, good German bread, omelettes, American pancakes, and bagels. Bengali Tola Shiva Cafe/German Bakery– one of the few places where pad thai and red and green curries are served. This German Bakery has a rooftop table with a great view of the surrounding gullies. Vishwanath German Bakery Gali- has fondue, homemade breads, and a great selection of cheeses. Sweet shops Jayshree- on the left just before Godowlia crossing. The shop on the right as you enter Vishwanath Gully from the Godowlia end has the best gulab jaman in town. Ksheer Sagar- on the way to Godowlia, is also famous in the city for its sweets.

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Raj Bhog- on the main road from Godowlia to Lanka, is a favorite of musicians. Vaishali – in Lanka Exercise There are no adequate gyms or swimming pool memberships in Varanasi. However, Benares Hindu University is a great location for morning workouts. Even at 6 AM the campus is in use (and very safe) with Indian men, mostly, on their morning walks. Students frequently go there for a run around the campus and track. Women are advised to run with another person as they may be harassed if they are running alone. There are four large fields complete with a track, tennis courts, and basketball courts. Bring your own sporting equipment. Also, there are swimming pools in some of the hotels such as Hotel Taz, Radisson, Hotel Suieya, and Hotel Clarkes.

COMMUNICATION When making calls, keep in mind time zone differences (www.timeanddate.com/worldclock). To make an international call to the United States, dial the access code for the country from which you are calling plus the United States country code (always “1”) followed by the appropriate U.S. area code and local number. To call internationally from the United States, dial “011”, the country code, city access code (if necessary) and the phone number . Country and city codes can be found online (www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/dialing.html). Some of above steps can vary if you are using a calling card. Cell Phones During orientation, the staff will take you to purchase a cell phone. It is recommended that you purchase this phone in India, rather than bringing your US phone. Phones are inexpensive and range from Rs1500 – Rs5000. You can add minutes to your phone by purchasing “Top up cards” at various points around Varanasi. Local calls cost less than Rs1 and international calls cost around Rs3/minute. It is much cheaper to call the US from your Indian cell phone than for someone in the US to call you in India. In the case of losing your phone, you can lock the number with the service provider in India, but the phone numbers saved on your SIM card may not be able to be recovered. It is advised that you keep a written list of important numbers. Skype Skype is a free, downloadable software application that allows users to make live video and voice calls over the internet. Skype users can also add money to their account and can then use the service to call land lines and cell phones internationally at very low rates. Additionally, Skype also provides an instant messaging function as well as file sharing. To create a Skype account, users must download the application from www.skype.com and create a user name and password. Once the application is installed onto their computer, they can search for friends either by first and last name or using their friends' Skype usernames. Once a friend is added to a users contact list, they will be able to see whether that person is available to chat. If two users both have web-enabled video cameras for their computers, they will be able to chat face to face. For users without a web cam, a microphone is all that’s required for calls to another computer.

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Postal Mail Generally letters to or from India arrive within two weeks. Padded envelopes are the most reliable way to send small or medium packages. Boxes are much more likely to be opened by the customs officers in India and rummaged through. Be sure to register every package or box you send to or from India. The post office will provide you a registration number with which you can track the package or box. You may also want to pay for a return-receipt. You will receive the return-receipt after your package or box has been signed for at the other end. Courier service (such as DHL) is very reliable to India, as is International Express Mail (at the Post Office), but cash, check or money orders should not be enclosed. It is not advisable to send a package to and from India to the United States (sending things like chocolate/cheese/or other food items especially as they may melt in transit or may be taken out of the package completely).

RESOURCES Films on Northern India at UW-Madison Videos (including but not limited to the ones below) are available in Learning Support Services (LSS) in Room 259 Van Hise, open 11am-5pm Monday through Friday. They are listed under their AS (Asian Studies) call number.

“An Appointment with the Astrologer” (AS 2.002) (Four Astrologers in Varanasi)

“Banaras Muharram and the Coals of Karbala” (AS 2.054) (A Shi’ite mourning celebration in Varanasi)

“Being Muslim in India” (AS 2.017) (A Sunni family in Lucknow, North India)

“Dadi and Her Family: A Rural Mother-in-law in North India” (AS2.011)

“The Fourth Stage: A Hindu’s Quest for Release” (AS2.024) (scenes filmed in Varanasi)

“Holy Hey: A Festival of Color, Love and Life” (AS2.047) (filmed in Varanasi)

“Modern Brides: Arranged Marriage in South India” (AS 2.019)

“A Musical Tradition in Banaras” (AS 2.037) (A tabla-player’s life in Varanasi)

“Tulsidas and the Fire of the Veda” (AS 2.050) (Vedic and contemporary Hindu devotions in Varanasi)

“Wages of Action: Religion in a Hindu Village” (AS 2.009) (Religious observances in a village outside Varanasi)

Varanasi Websites: Art and Music www.varanasionline.com/index.htm Banaras Hindu University www.bhu.ac.in/ Photopage www.redtailcanyon.com/items/12551.aspx Uttar Pradesh Tourism www.indiatouristoffice.org/North/varanasi.htm India Websites: Cinema & Music www.bollywoodpremiere.com www.bollywoodmusic.com Indian Dance www.umich.edu/~hindu/dance/dance1.htm www.sruti.com

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Newspapers www.indiapress.org www.indianexpress.com Sacred Sites www.sacredsites.com/explore/asia.htm Travel www.india-journeys.com www.tsiindia.com www.tourismofindia.com/index.htm

STUDENT TESTIMONIALS The testimonials below are from past participants; they reflect various students’ experiences and are included to provide different perspectives. University of Wisconsin-Madison does not endorse any specific view expressed in this section. Preparations Before Leaving “Everyone will give you lists and lists of things that you should bring with you, which you can't find in India. Listen to the lists, but know that everything that you need in order for survival is available in India. Billions of people live here, and they do it without all our American stuff. If you can adapt to new brands, and maybe a few new habits, the only things you really need to bring with you are the essential items for your first two weeks when you still don't know how to find anything on your own. The program staff will help you find everything else. Aside from electronics, just about everything you think of buying before coming is readily available and way cheaper in India. Just wait to buy it here.” “It is really not worth bringing a lot of clothing. I brought a bunch of cute dresses and clubbing outfits for nights in Mumbai and Delhi, you really need one or two. I would not bring any nice shoes; they are a waste of space. If you do decide to bring them, they will most likely go home with cow poop on them. I bought the majority of my clothes in Banaras. I would however bring two of your favorite sweaters for the cold season. Otherwise, buy most of your clothes here. Two or three pair of jeans, four or five T-shirts, and a ton of underwear, socks, and bras are all that is needed.” Travel and Arrival Information “First and foremost, make a travel budget and stick to it. It can get costly quickly, especially over winter break and in more expensive cities like Delhi, Bombay and Goa or countries like Thailand, China etc. Take what travel opportunities you have in the first semester, since during the second semester you'll be too busy to travel much at all. If you're set on travelling in the second semester leave the closer places like Agrah, Lucknow, Allahabad, Jaipur, and Bodh Gaya for then. If you want to go far away, go during winter break - ie Thailand (an awesome break from India! See Bangkok and the close Islands. Supposedly Chang Mai is also a must-see), Bombay, Goa, South India. Here are some good long weekend trips (but seriously don't go overboard and forget about your field work - you'll regret it if you don't begin it ASAP): Mumbai: Colaba, eat at Leopolds and the Woodside Inn Restaurant, Elephanata Island, Dhobi Ghat, Gateway of India, eat lunch at the famous Taj Palace and Tower Hotel, Mani Bhavan Gandhi Museum.

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Rajasthan - forts, castles, shopping for clothes, jewelry & bedding, camel trekking, elephants, Jains. See: Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodhpur, Ajmer, Jaisalmer, Pushkar . Beautiful! Calcutta - hippy hostels (Paragon Hotel on Sutter Street is very cheap, sparse and clean and has awesome rooftop gatherings with guests in the evenings!), fish, Mother Theresa, churches, malls, sidewalks, British Raj historical sites/museums, shopping - jewelry, fake perfume, western style clothes, I love Calcutta. Seemed like a good place to go for Christmas with tinsel and a church of your choice if you want. Lucknow- Shopping - chikan fabrics, if you want to see a movie don't bring ANYTHING with you or you won't get in, meat & kebabs, live music with dinner, Delhi - Shopping - anything. Try Dilli Haat for clothes, jewely, sculpures etc. Try Khan Market for western food (specifically the restaurant The Big Chill for Italian and milkshakes) and clothes, nice restaurants, spas, Humayan's tomb, Lotus Temple, National Museum, Q’tab Minar, Delhi is really expensive (at least comparatively) - food and autorickshaws really add up quickly.” Living Abroad “Words of ‘wisdom’ - The less you bring, the more fun you'll have trying to figure out how to be comfortable. - Expect to figure things out for youself, i.e. be able to ask a shopkeeper what they mean when they say they have "everything." (cuz sometimes, they do!) - Plan on reading fieldwork projects in the program house, but don't wait that long. Take some notes on a few that look interesting while you're in Madison.

- Before you leave, set up an account through skype that will let people call a local number in the city you're from, and have it forwarded to your new cell phone. It saves both of you money. For example, your friends can call a local number in Seattle, and skype will forward it to your cell phone in India. If your phone is off, they will be able to leave a voice mail on skype. Since Celt phones in India have not voicemail service, this is a nice, cost-effective alternative.

“Everyone has adjustment period, and the length of time that it takes to adjust varies person to person, so don't get discouraged if you aren't loving life in India as quickly as "everyone else" and try to be patient with those who need a little more time. Finding small things that make you happy each day will help you through the rough patches. Look for things that make you smile, things that you think are beautiful (amongst the dust, dirt, cow poop, and judging eyes) and places that you feel comfortable. If you cant find any of these and still feel as if you made a huge mistake and all you want to do is break down and cry, then close your eyes and imagine a "happy place". Creating a place that exists only in your head, rather than back home, will help you avoid homesickness while still giving you a chance to calm down and escape from your frustrations. Being away for a year is hard, don't let anyone fool you into thinking otherwise, but it wont be until the end of your trip that you can truly decide if it was worth it.”

Housing “Be sure your rent is set before you move in and that your landlord/homestay family knows how much you will pay, when you will pay and that they will need to sign each time you pay. Have your landlord etc. sign something every time you pay to avoid paying twice. See all the facilities available to you: ie, kitchens, bathrooms and showers (hot water?), roofs (more important than you may think!),

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closets/drawers, desks etc. There aren't a lot of places to study without paying in Varanasi so you should be comfortable studying in your room and chances are you won't be able to be out after 9pm, so really - make sure you like your room. Before you move in, be sure you know the rules ie: can fellow students of the opposite sex come over, what time do you need to be back by at night, what do you need to do when you are away for a few days, who will you share space/facilities with etc. Your house will be your fortress: be sure you're comfortable with the space, the rules and the people there.” “I am so glad that I lived with a home stay family. However, eating with them has posed the greatest problem. I like eating earlier in the evenings and Indian families do not sit down for a meal before seven or eight at night. It becomes very difficult to explain that you like eating out with your friends. It does place extra obligations on a student, to live with a family, however, I wouldn’t trade the experience. I speak in Hindi every night at dinner and we watch Indian soap operas. Home stay families provide a unique experience and if you feel like you can balance the obligations, do it!” Things To Do For Fun Words of "wisdom" on what to do in Banaras for fun. - Try not to have such a tight schedule that you can't stop to have chai. People will like you, and you will like more people. - A lot of people don't have a lot of fun (of the type that you're used to). Try to negotiate between different senses of humor. (Jokes are a type of folk-lore that are worth thinking about.) - Have fun with what you're studying, it's an opportunity to become engaged while having fun. If you don't, it'll feel like work, which it isn't. Tutorials “Once you decide upon your tutorial, program staff will find your tutor for you and introduce you to them. After that, every part of the tutorial is your responsibility, aside from paying your tutor. It will be your responsibility to finish your tutorial hours, schedule meetings, communicate with your tutor if you have to cancel, and tell them if you will be out of town for any long period of time. Communication is really important. Don't count on anyone else to do it for you.” “Make sure you're on time! Your advisor will very much appreciate it!”