UV Radiation Protective Clothing

Mentor: Dr. V. Senthil Kumar

Pranjali Kataria

Master of Design

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai

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Content

1. Introduction to UV Radiations2. Objectives of Research3. Literature Review4. Research Methodology5. Field Study6. A new perspective towards Natural Dyes7. Materials & Methods8. UV Testing9. Analysis of results10. Design Ideation11. Style Explorations12. User Feedback13. Cost14. Conclusion15. Future Scope

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Impact

Introduction to UV RadiationsThe solar radiation reaching earth’s surface is a continuous range of energy.

Among which, UV radiation is 5% of total irradiation, but has the highest quantum energy among all.

Photo biological response of skin

Chromophores

UV Rays

Initiates biological response

Generation of Reactive Oxygen

Species

Collagen Breakdown

Visible damageto skin

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Basal cell Carcinoma Squamous cell Carcinoma Melanoma Cancer Photo aging

PMLE Melasma Pigmentation

Skin Diseases due to UV radiations

Objectives of Research

To develop protective garment to shield UV radiations, resulting in harmful effects to the skin.1. To develop textile material with enhanced UV protection properties by analyzing the impact of different fabric

parameters on UV transmittance through it.2. To design protective clothing with better comfort and style for diseases prevalent in Indian population.

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Literature Review

Skin diseases due to UV exposure

Protection from UV Radiation

Impact of various fabric parameters on UV protection • Fabric Structure• Fiber Composition• Density• Weight

Positive impact of dyeing and finishing on UV protection factor

UV test method

• Natural Dyes• Titanium dioxide nano particles coating

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Research Methodology

• ObservationField Study

Primary Research

• InterviewDermatologist

User Identification

Material Development

• Treatment of fabric

• UV Testing

Prototype

• Design Ideation

• Style Exploration

Feedback• Dermatologists

• Patients

PRODUCT

• Material & Dye selection

PHASE I

PHASE II

PHASE III

PHASE IV

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PHASE I

FIELD STUDY

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Short duration exposure

Prevalent Skin DiseasesPLE, Photomelanosis, Sun burn,

Hair dye allergy, Photoaging, Cosmetic procedures, Melasma

Primary Data

SampleDermatologist & Cosmetologist

Objectives• To determine the prevalence of skin disease in Indian population• To identify the common outdoor activities leading to skin damage of the population.• To determine the effect of protection measures recommended by the physician to the people and thus, to understand the need of protective clothing

Analysis of Data

Common Skin types – IV & V

Response of skin to UV rays

Stimulus to Melanin production

Generation of free Oxygen species

Skin hardening, thus, protects skin HOW

WHEN

Wet skin, thin skin & white skin - EXPOSED

Swimming, Beaches, Trekking, Short duration drives & other

outdoor activitiesFEMALE USERS of age group

22-40 years oldinvolved in such activities

• Interviews with practitioners gave a clarity in understanding the prevalence of skin disease in the skin types III, IV, V ; response of the skinto UV radiation and defining a user group getting major impact under such climatic zones.• Setting up the design parameters based on the problem identified 9

PHASE II

MATERIAL DEVELOPMENT

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Fabric Structure: Woven & Knit

• Plain • Twill

• Interlock

WOVEN KNIT

• Fabrics of nearly same weight to study the effect among both structures• Density of the samples is variable

• Weight and stitch density of the samples differ

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To analyze the effect of the basic structure on UV protection, woven and knit are chosen ; as there are no studies evaluating the two for better UV protection.

Metal Oxide Nanoparticle Finishes

• Titanium dioxide is a semiconductor which naturally occurs in three crystalline forms: rutile, anatase and brookite. • It has got high degree of photo catalytic action and has self cleaning, soil release and UV protective properties.• Wider industrial application: paints, varnishes, printing inks, food stuffs, cosmetic products and textiles.• TiO2 being primarily a UVB absorbing compound, while ZnO is more efficient in UVA absorption.• Nanoparticle size should be less than 50 nm for imparting effective properties

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“A new perspective towards Natural Dyes”

Art of dyeing is as old as our civilization and natural dyes were used only for coloring textiles. Being natural and eco-friendly, these dyes are offering tremendous environmental advantages.Research studies have found that few natural dyes exhibit anti-microbial and anti-UV properties.

Chemical components like anthraquinone and napthaquinones are responsible for such properties [19]Natural pigments present in the natural dyes act as UV absorbersDye color plays a vital role in providing UV protection; darker hues are found to give better UV shield

Absorption band of chemical structure present in natural dyes extends to UV spectral region

Acacia Catechu is a tannin based dye showing antibacterial property, Henna contains napthaquinones [17]

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Material & Methods

Selection of Fabric Selection of Dyes Process Condition

100% cotton samples with different fabric structure and weight were chosen, with the following specifications:

a. Plain weave: 120 GSM, with 164 EPI and 86 PPI

b. Twill weave: 123 GSM, with 170 EPI and 80 PPI

c. Interlock: 235 GSM, with 42 wales/inch and 56 courses/inch

d. Interlock: 250 GSM, with 36 wales/inch and 50 courses/inch

To impart UV protection properties, natural dyes chosen were:

DYES COLOR MORDANT

Indigo

Madder

Acacia Catechu

Henna

Blue

Red

Brown

Green

Alum

CuSO4

CuSO4

DYE (gm) MORDANT (gm) TEMP (°C) TIME (min)

100

80-90

80-90 15-20

15-20

30

10Room

50

50

100 2-3

2-3

50

50 -

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Before the dyeing process, mercerization of the samples are done using 15% NaOH and 2% Wetting agent in 1:30 MLR

Dyeing Process

BIO MORDANTING WITH MYROBOLAN:• Myrobolan (Terminalia Chebula) is found to exhibit high protection against UV radiation [19]• Good affinity for cotton • Myrobolan treated samples are dried in sunlight for 4 to 5 days till a yellow tinge is obtained

PRE AND SIMULTANEOUS MORDANTING• Pre-mordanting gives better result in UV protection than simultaneous mordanting method due to fixation of certain chemical structures by the oxidation process

DYEING OF THE SAMPLES• Copper sulfate and alum as a mordant used for pre-mordanting method. Dyeing was carried out at 80OC/100OC for 15-20/30 min. Mordant concentration was 10% on weight of the fabric and dye concentration was 4%. After dyeing, the samples were rinsed in water then washed using non-ionic detergent, rinsed again in water and air-dried.

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UV Testing

UV Transmittance Analyzer is used to determine UV resistance of untreated and treated samples.Description:The UV 2000-F rapidly measures the diffuse transmittance of textile samples in the ultraviolet wavelength region from 250-450 nm and achieves accurate UPF, critical wavelength and UVA:UVB ratio of samples.

Specifications required for test:Amount of material required: 0.20 square meterDuration of testing: Immediate

Standard:The standard used for testing is AATCC 183:2010 – Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted. Ultraviolet Radiation through fabrics.

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TEST RESULTS : UV Transmitter Analyzer, AATCC 183:2010 Standard

SAMPLES WEIGHT (g/m2) EPI * PPI

Plain

Twill

Interlock 1

Interlock 2

120

123

235

250

164 * 86

170 * 80

42 * 56

36 * 50

Fabric Specifications

UPF values for different dyes in plain structure

UPF values for Acacia Catechu in different structures

SAMPLES UPF RATING UV-A BLOCKING (%) UV-B BLOCKING (%)

SAMPLES UPF RATING UV-A BLOCKING (%) UV-B BLOCKING (%)

Plain

Twill

Interlock 1

Interlock 2

Indigo

Madder

Acacia Catechu

Heena

61

51

642

148

1595

981

1990

1938

99.91

99.82

99.95

99.53

99.94

99.91

99.95

99.95

99.09

98.77

99.52

99.53

98.63

98.32

99.93

99.46

Before After Before After Before After

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61

61

61

Before After

2000

1991

1595

961

99.95

99.95

99.77

99.75

99.95

99.95

99.91

99.93

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Table 1

Table 2

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UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) ratings and protection categories

UPF RATING PROTECTION CATEGORY %UV RADIATION BLOCKED

15 - 24

25 - 39

40 and over

Good

Very Good

Excellent

93.3 – 95.9

96.0 – 97.4

97.5 or more

According to Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA), the current Australian/New Zealand Standard has three major categories in the table:

Analysis of result

• Effect of the fabric structure on UV protection of the fabric

• Effect of degree of closeness of warp and weft on UV protection of the fabric

• Cumulative effect of stitch density and weight of the knit fabric on UV protection

• Effect of treatment of different dyes on a plain structure

• Effect of mercerization on UV protection

Plain: 99.09%, Twill: 98.77%, Interlock: 99.51% : INTERLOCK > PLAIN

Due to frequent interlacement & interloping : PLAIN > TWILL

Density + weight = UV protection : INTERLOCK 1 > INTERLOCK 2

Indigo: 99.95%, Madder: 99.95%, Catechu: 99.91, Henna: 99.75 : INDIGO

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Mercerization increases dye affinity : INDIGO (m) > INDIGO (um)

PHASE III

PROTOTYPE DEVELOPMENT

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Summer coatShrugs or jacketDraping scarves in different style to cover face

Standardized garment

Design Parameters, based on the field study

Conceptualization

Covering of head, neck & armsEase of wear Ease of movement

Clothing for protection, based on the observation & previous study

Background Study, based on the feedback & conclusion

CoverageEase of wear

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• Full head mask accompanied by a long-sleeve bodysuit• Women wearing the protective mask at beach in the Shandong province in east China.• Protects from insects and jellyfish also : 15 to 25 Yuan ($2.3 to $3.9).• ‘Face-kini’ with its matching bodysuit seems to go one step further than the burkini, a swimsuit designed by the company Ahiida tocover the whole body.• Burkini, looks like a wetsuit with a built-in hood, only leaves the face, the hands and the feet visible. The design was made forMuslim women who prefer not to wear more revealing suits.• Apart from the face-kini, the Chinese use special UV-blocking sun umbrellas which can be attached to bike handles

The ‘face-kini’: China’s beach trend

Sun Protective Clothing Brands : Solumbra and Coolibar

Price: Rs 815.64-1020.33/PieceMaterial: PolyesterFabric type: Broadcloth

Dhgate.com

Wholesale-2015 New fashion women's sun protection clothing anti-UV beach casual clothes ultra-thin

transparent sunscreen outerwear

Coolibar, a private company based in Minneapolis, US. It develops superior sun protective products

• Tops, Tees, Polos

• Fitness

• Pants

• Dresses & Tunics

• Sun Hats

• Swim wear

• Beach cover-ups

• Plus size

• Gloves and scarves

2377 INR 2815 INR 4348 INR

2000-2189 INR 938-1565 INR

Design Brief

To design personal protective wear for UV radiations.

TECHNIQUE USED: DrapingFABRIC USED: Plain woven & Interlock

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Costume History

3500 B.C. to 2500 B.C. Mesopotamia

3000 B.C to 300 B.C.Egypt

2900 B.C. to 300 B.C. Crete and Greek

800 B.C. to A.D. 400 Etruria and Rome

Draped Garment

Wool, Wrapped & draped costumes,

skirts, tunics

Pharaoh, cloaks, short fabric caps, linen fabric

Chiton, fibula, more fabric, overfolds

Tebenna, tall peaked hat, more shaping in the sleeves, Toga,

tunica, stola, palla, subligaculum

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To analyze the ancient draping styles to get understanding into the concept and technique used

To explore different shapes and sizes of woven and interlock fabric and to develop various draping styles

Egyptian Wrapped Costume

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Chiton, GreekCloak, GreekImperial toga, Roman

Toga, Greek

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Explorations

Rectangle fabric

Square 60”*60”4 piece joined along straight grain line

Muslin fabric cut into a square: 49” * 49”

Style 1 Style 2 Style 3 Style 4 Style 528

1 Interlock fabric cut into square: 36” * 36”

Style 1 Style 2.a Style 2.b Style 2.c

Style 3 Style 4 Style 5 Style 6

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2 Interlock fabric cut into square : 36” * 36”

Style 1.a Style 1.b Style 1.c Style 1.d

Style 2.a Style 2.b Style 3

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Single piece of plain woven (1,2,3,4) and Interlock fabric (5,6,7):

Style 1 Style 2 Style 5 Style 6

Style 3 Style 4Style 7

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PHASE IV

PROTOTYPE FEEDBACK

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User FeedbackThe prototype was evaluated by the dermatologists and users on the following parameters:

• Best protection overcoming toxic effects of PABA in sunscreens and other issues• Best suited for post cosmetic procedures• Reduction in recurrent expenses• Effective and long-running protection

• Wider fabric• Breathability• Preference: Interlock over woven

• Versatile and can be customized • Multi-styles with one fabric• Best suited for beach visits or other UV intense areas• Modifiable• Sustainable

• Fastening with press button• Separate hood or scarf• Guide to drape the styles is required

SAFETY DESIGN/STYLE

COMFORT EASE TO WEAR

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Product Description

A indigo dyed interlock fabric in different shapes and sizes to create a draped over garment by different draping styles

ESTIMATED COST

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Material Cost Untreated Fabric (Min. quantity is 3 meters) 180 /-

Trims & Finish Fasteners + Edge finish + Seams(for 1 fabric length)

100 /-

300 /-

80 /-

280 /- 380 /-

Indigo VAT dye : INR 10800 per 500 gmRequirement : 30gm (12%) for 235 owfCOST : INR 600 for square meter fabric

Conclusion

Personal protective wear for UV radiation developed can give high protection from UV radiation and can be a full proof solution to protect the skin. The results show that UV radiation protective clothing can be

effective and the properties will improve by selecting appropriate fabric and finishing treatment. The treated fabric worn in draped forms is more stylish, comfortable, easy to wear, versatile and flexible in use.

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Future Scope

• Clinical research for collecting data on prevalence of skin disease in Indian population• Based UV intensities of different zones, UPF value can be attained• Experimentation with different fiber composition• Variation in fabric structure, yarn count, thread count : Bamboo fabric, denim, greige fabric• Application of metal oxide nano particles: Titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide• Natural dyes with UV absorbing chemical compounds• Micro level evaluation of dye molecules• Antimicrobial testing and other fabric parameters test• Color fastness of natural dyes• Reflective properties of different colors• Fastening technique : user friendly

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References

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13. Ibrahim, G.E. (2011). Achieving Optimum Scientific Standards for Designing and Producing Fabrics Suitable for Ultraviolet Protective Clothing. Journal of American Science, 7:9, 97-109.

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195.19. Vidhya, S. & Rekha, V.B. (2012). Effect of Knitted Bamboo Structures Dyed with Natural Colourants on Ultraviolet Radiation Protection. Journal of Textile Science

and Engineering, 2:5.20. Alvarez, J. & Lipp-Symonowicz, B. (2003). Examination of the absorption properties of various fibres in relation to UV radiation. AUTEX Research Journal, 3:2, 72-

77.21. http://hyderabadtalks.com/2013/07/the-face-kini-chinas-new-beach-trend/22. http://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-china-blog-28803400

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