use of standards in the textile sector and the challenges...
TRANSCRIPT
Presentation by
The Pakistan Permanent Mission to the WTO
Workshop on the role of International Standards
in Economic Development
Use of Standards in the Textile Sector and the Challenges for the
SMEs
Pakistan textile industry
Textiles is the premier industry & backbone of Pakistan’s Economy:
� Major Agrarian industrial sector.
� Generates about 60 % of exports
� Constitutes 46 % of Manufacturing Industry
� Employs 38 % of country’s work force
� Contributes 8.5% to the total GDP
� Major products are cotton yarn, fabrics, bed
wear, towels, woven & knit garments.
� Drives Banking, Shipping ,Transport
,Insurance, Machinery, Dyes/Chemicals
,Printing/Packaging & allied sectors.
Other texti les;
274.001
Madeups Incl.
Bedwear ;
2423.723
Art Silk &
Syn.Tex ;
489.982
Cotton; 82.057Yarn ; 1294.195
Fabrics ;
1231.62
Ready Made
Garments ;
1498.499Knitwear
(Hosiery);
1831.178
Towels ;
615.415
Tents & Canvas ;
70.34
Composition of Pakistan textile exports
Textile exports (2007-08) US$10.777 Blns
Role in the Textile Industry:
� Involved at processing, stitching and various
levels of the value chain
� Labour intensive work therefore trained
manpower and quality control mechanisms are
extremely important
� Case study of a Company and two clusters of
SMEs
SMEs the backbone of economy
Desire to connect with
Int. market
Only possible
with full compliance
Buyers Standards Industry specific Standards
International Standards
SME
National Regulatory Framework
Evolution of quality control regime in Pakistan
Quality control and standardization institutional
framework exists since early 50s, few year after
independence in 1947.
The various components of this institutional arrangement were:
� Pakistan Standards Institution (PSI)
� Central Testing Laboratory (CTL)
� Metallurgical and Industrial Research
Development Centre (MIRDC)
Evolution of quality control regime in Pakistan
Current structure established in 1996
M/o Science and Technology
Standards Development Centre (SDC) [former PSI]
PNAC
Quality Control Centre (QCC) [former CTL]
Technical Services Centre (TSC) [former MIRDC]
Signature of MOU’s & MRA’s in the fields of Science &
Technology, Standardization,Quality
Assurance/Management, Product Certification and
exchange of technical information, human resource
development and capacity building to achieve the
objectives of TBT Agreement:
A) Between governments
Pakistan and the sovereign Governments of Saudi Arabia, Morocco, Algeria, Sri Lanka
B) PSQCA and another standardization bodies:
� PSQCA and Turkish Standards Institution (TSE).
� PSQCA and Yemen Authority for Specification,
Standardization and Quality Control (YASSC).
� MRA signed with SASO, ASTM International USA, DIN
Germany, ANSI
Pakistan’s global affiliation
C) Affiliation in progress between :
� Pakistan and the sovereign Governments of Asia
Cooperation Dialogue (ACD) Countries, Brunei
Darussalam, Sultanate of Oman, Republic of South Africa,
Kingdom of Jordan, Republic of India, Malaysia, Russian
Federation, Kingdom of Norway, Peoples Republic of
China
� PSQCA and SIRIM QAS International, Malaysia.
� PSQCA and Bangladesh Standards Testing Institution
(BSTI).
Pakistan’s global affiliation (Continued)
Institutional and regulatory support by the Government to protect environment
� National Conservation Strategy (NCS) adopted in 1992
� The Environmental Protection Ordinance of 1983 was replaced by a new Act of Parliament in 1997 i.e. Pakistan Environmental Protection Act 1997
� The federal government offered incentives of reduction in customs duties on import of anti pollution equipment
Pakistan National Accreditation Council
Mission Statement
PNAC strives for improvement, competence and integrity of conformity assessment bodies by providing them an internationally recognized accreditation service and also promote quality culture, which ultimately benefit the consumers, producers, regulators and other stakeholders.
International Linkages
PNAC represents Pakistan in the following regional and international forum:
► International Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation (ILAC)
► International Accreditation Forum (IAF)
► Asia Pacific Laboratory Accreditation Cooperation (APLAC)
► Pacific Accreditation Cooperation (PAC)
A case study of a Company looked at the following aspects of quality which can be achieved through ISO 9000 certification
Increase in productivity �Trained manpower �Quality of raw material �Calibration of machines �Maintenance of machines
Quality productivity �Minimum hard waste �Minimum wastage in weaving
�Minimum wastage in processing �Minimum wastage in cutting �Minimum wastage in stitching & packing �Minimum time for tea break �Minimum time for lunch break
�Minimum time waste during prayer �Energy saving
Water wastages �Leakage in pipe & joint �Tap remain open �Collection of condensed water �Use of last treated water for 1st treatment �Re-cycling of water
15
Quality Policies
Review of contracts
11
Equipment
Management
System
Purchasing supplies
Subcontracting of tests
12 Measurement traceability
Document control
Accom. and env. Cond.
15
Assuring the Quality of test results
General 13
Sampling
Test methods
and m.validation
Personnel 14
Handling of test items
Management requirements
AB Pre Audit
Complaints
AB Application
Improvement
Reporting the
results
AB Doc Review
Preventive action
Service to the customer
AB On Site Visit
Internal audits
Corrective Actions
Management
Review
Accreditation
Technical requirements
House of Accreditation
Standards
Accreditation
Corrective Actions and AB Report
AB Document Review AB On Site Visit
AB Application
AB Pre-Audit
22 Management Review (4.15)
21 Internal audits (4.14) 16 Reporting the results (5.10)
Man
ag
em
en
t Re
qu
irem
en
ts
20 Preventive action (4.12) /
records (4.13)
15 Assuring the Quality of test
results (5.9)
Te
ch
nic
al R
eq
uire
ments
19 Improvement (4.10) and corr
action (4.11) 14 Handling of test items (5.8)
18 Complaints (4.8) / non conf.
work (4.9) 13 Sampling (5.7)
17 Service to the customer (4.7) 12 Measurement traceability (5.6)
8 Purchasing supplies (4.6) 11 Equipment (5.5)
5 Subcontracting of tests (4.5) 10 Test methods and m -
validation (5.4)
4 Review of contracts (4.4) 9 Accom. and env. Cond. (5.3)
3 Document control (4.3) 7 Personnel (5.2)
2 Management System (4.2) 6 General (5.1)
1 Quality Policies (Organization) (4.1)
A company before and after ISO9000 certification
Wastages
Before After
Raw material to furnishing 25% 6%
Water 30% 5%
Energy 20% Nil
Man hour loss due to
machinery breakage 15% Nil
Result: Increase in exports 2004-05 US$ 110,539,384
2005-06 US$ 125,360,094 2006-07 US$ 126,068,016
� 28 tests carried on textile products: quality of colour fastness, Ezoyd stuff, shrinking, yarn test, cracking, abri colour etc.
� High level of awareness almost 80%; in house testing facility
available to 37%.
� Foreign laboratories used on the demand of buyer only .
� Use of local laboratories is common
� The level of satisfaction from local laboratories was quite high in terms of infrastructure, affordability, acceptability and service delivery.
� Testing cost and time was a major concern for smaller firms
Testing lab in Pakistan: SGS, ATS, PCSIR, Intertek, Microtech, Tech Dyeing, T.T.I, I.T.S .
Survey of 2 clusters in Lahore and Faisalabad
� Conformity assessment checked for testing, certification, calibration, accreditation.
� Positive co-relation found between percentage share of exports and
deployment of qualified staff for in-house testing and quality control.
Testing
Certification ISO 9000, ISO14000, ISO22000, WRAP, BSCI, OEKO-TEX, EALO, SA8000
High awareness level, ISO 9000 was identified as the most important, ISO 14000 as the second most important. Certifications
were through locally based foreign certification bodies.
Survey of 2 clusters in Lahore and Faisalabad (Continued)
Satisfaction score: (1-5)
Accessibility: 4.78
Technical skill: 4.62
Certification cost: 4.41
Over all cost to business: 4.50
Time taken for certification 4.48
Acceptability by export buyers: 4.75
Calibration Awareness level 88.6 %, time taken was 1.94 however time was around 8-9 days for using facilities outside the city
Joint Branding
50% already involved in joint branding, 43% interested in joint branding- It brings premium price therefore an incentive for ensuring
compliance
A. Care Label Instructions: Many countries have mandatory or voluntary standards for care label instructions that apply to either apparel or soft home furnishing products. � Colourfastness to bleaching � Dimensional stability � Appearance retention � Ironing (EU & US joint proposal on textile labelling in NAMA negotiation is supported by Pakistan)
Fields of determinations requested
B. Performance Testing: To meet specific performance standards that affect end use consumer of textile products, a variety of tests are required. Some of these tests includes: � Dimensional Stability to Washing and/or Dry-cleaning �Colourfastness to Light, Crocking (Rubbing), Washing, Bleaching, etc �Physical tests – Strength, Abrasion, Pilling Resistance, etc �Chemical Tests – Finish Analysis, pH, etc
Fields of determinations requested (continued)
C. Eco – Textile Testing The trend of green consumerism has been extended to textile and apparel products. Major European and USA textile product buyers have responded to this public awareness by viewing their textile products from an ecological viewpoint and are establishing relevant requirements. Chemical analysis for Eco-Testing includes: � Banned Azo Colorants � Formaldehyde Content � Heavy Metal Residues � Dye testing to carcinogenic compounds � Pesticide Residue
Fields of determinations requested (continued)
D. FLAMMABILITY TESTING For apparel, it is especially important that the material used are in compliance with the flammability regulations. In particular, adult apparel and children’s sleeper.
Fields of determinations requested (continued)
� About 3.2 million business establishments exist in Pakistan.
� Out of which 99% are SME’s.
� They contribute 30% to GDP and 25% to export.
ROLE OF SME’S IN PAKISTAN
Recommendations
1. Harmonization of all private standards
2. Harmonization of private standards with
international standards where ever
possible
3. Cluster development of SMEs through 3 C
approach Competitive cluster ����
conformity���� connectivity with the market
4. Incentives from the national governments
to promote compliance, i.e. duty free
import of equipment, tax breaks,
exemption from sales tax, national reward
system and SME of the year etc.
5. Best use of Aid for Trade (Skill development,
mobile vans with training equipment,
strengthening of testing labs-chemicals.
6. Effective participation of SME sector in the
standard setting process
7. Effective implementation of special and
differential treatment provisions (article 12 of
TBT) for developing countries
8. See things in a context, ban on trade is not a
solution . Country specific solutions is another
option.
9. Promote public-private investment in testing
laboratories.
Recommendations (Continued)
Buyers standards Industry specific standards
International standards
SME Technical
Assistance to achieve
compliance
Aid for Trade
National Regulatory Framework
Connected with the
International market
Only possible
with full compliance
WTO Agreement On TBT
List of Test required by buyers
Test Methods
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC- 8 ISO- 105 X12
pH of the Water-Extract from wet processed Textiles AATCC- 81 ISO- 3071
Fibfer Analysis: Qualitative AATCC-20 ISO-3072
Fibfer Analysis: Quantitative
AATCC-20A/
ASTM D629
ISO-1833/
ISO-5088
Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC-22
ISO- 4920 /
BS 3702
Skewness change in fabric and garment twist resulting
from automatic home laundering AATCC-179
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC-15 ISO-105 E04
Dimensional Change of Garments after home laundering AATCC-150 ISO-5077/ ISO
6330
Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool AATCC-162 ISO-105 E03
Colorfastness: Dye Transfer in Storage; Fabric-to-Fabric AATCC-163
Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home laundering AATCC-172
ISO 105 N01/
N02
Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of AATCC-100
Colorfastness to Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide AATCC-101 ISO-105-N02
Colorfastness to Water AATCC-107 ISO-105 E01
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Test Methods
Formaldehyde Content
Japanese law 112-1973, JIS L
1096-1979 / SFS-4996
Formaldehyde Release from Fabric, Determination of:
sealed Jar Mthod AATCC-112
Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
Method AATCC-116
Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test AATCC-118
Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home laundering AATCC-124 ISO-7768
Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light AATCC-125
Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method AATCC-128 ISO-9867
Soil Release: Oily Stain Relese Method AATCC-130
Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC-132 ISO 105 D01
Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing AATCC-133 ISO 105-X11
Dimensional Change of Fabrics after home laundering AATCC-135 ISO-3759
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 ISO-3801
Wales and Coarses (Stitch Density) ASTM D 3887 BS 5441
List of Test required by buyers
32
List of Test required by buyers
Methods
Yarn Twist/Yarn ASTM 1422 / ASTM 1423 ISO 2061
Print Durability AATCC-135 / 150 ISO-6330
Colorfastness to washing AATCC- 61 ISO 105 C01 to C06
Colorfastness to Light AATCC-16 ISO 105-B02
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 ISO- 13934-2
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683 / ASTM D 3786 ISO 13935-1 / ISO 13935-2
Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 ISO 2960 / BS4768
Tearing Strength ASTM 1424 / ASTM 2261 ISO 13937-1 / ISO 9290
Pilling resistance ASTM D 3512
ICI pilling Box ISO 12945-1 / BS
5811
Pilling resistance
(Martindale) ASTM D4966 / ASTM D4970 ISO 12945-2
Stretch & Recovery ASTM D 4964 BS 4952
Flammability
ASTM D 1230 / US CPSC CFR 16 Part
1610
Lead content
Nickle content 33