22

Destination USA Regis St Louis

The playwright Arthur Miller once said that the essence of America was its promise. For newly arrived immigrants and jetlagged travelers alike, that promise of America can take on near mythic proportions. America is a land of dazzling cities, towering redwoods, alpine lakes, rolling vine-yards, chiseled peaks, barren deserts and a dramatic coastline of unrivaled beauty. And that’s just one state (California).

In the other 49 lie an astounding collection of natural and cultural wonders, from the wildly multihued tapestry of urban streets to the mountains, plains and forests that cover vast swaths of the continent. America is the home of LA, Las Vegas, Chicago, Miami, Boston and New York City – each a brimming metropolis whose name alone conjures a million different notions of culture, cuisine and entertainment.

Look more closely, and the American quilt unfurls in all its surprising variety: the eclectic music scene of Austin, the easygoing charms of ante-bellum Savannah, the eco-consciousness of free-spirited Portland, the magnificent waterfront of San Francisco, and the captivating old quarters of New Orleans, still rising up from their waterlogged foundations.

This is a country of road trips and great open skies, where four million miles of highways lead past red-rock deserts, below towering mountain peaks, and across fertile wheat fields that roll off toward the horizon. The sun-bleached Native American hillsides of the Great Plains, the lush for-ests of the Pacific Northwest and the scenic country lanes of New England are a few fine starting points for the great American road trip.

The world’s third-largest nation (geographically speaking) has also launched substantial contributions to the arts. It is from here that Geor-gia O’Keeffe’s wild landscapes, Robert Rauschenberg’s surreal collages, Alexander Calder’s elegant mobiles and Jackson Pollock’s drip paintings have entered the vernacular of avant-garde 20th century art. Cities such as Chicago and New York are veritable drawing boards for the great architects of the modern era. And musically speaking, America has few peers on the world stage. From the big-band jazz that was born in New Orleans, to the Memphis blues, Detroit’s Motown sound, plus funk, hip-hop, country, and rock and roll – America has invented sounds integral to any understanding of contemporary music.

Cuisine is another way of illuminating the American experience. On one evening in the USA, thick barbecue ribs and sizzling meats arrive fresh off the grill at a Tennessee roadhouse; miles away, talented chefs blend organic, fresh-from-the-garden produce with Asian accents at an award-winning West Coast restaurant. A smattering of locals get their fix of bagels and lox at a century-old deli in Manhattan’s Upper West Side, while several states away, plump pancakes and fried eggs disappear in a hurry under the clatter of cutlery at a 1950s-style diner. Steaming plates of fresh lobster served off a Maine pier, oysters and champagne in a fashion-conscious wine bar, beer and pizza at a Midwestern pub – these are just a few ways to dine à la Americana.

But America isn’t just about its geography, its cities or its art and cuisine. It’s also about people. The ‘teeming nation of nations’ (as Walt Whitman described the USA), was built on immigration and still attracts more than one million new immigrants each year. Representatives from nearly every country can be found inside the boundaries of the USA, adding an astounding mix of ethnicities, religions and languages to

FAST FACTS

Population: 302 million

Gross Domestic Product (GDP): $11.9 trillion

Inflation: 2.6%

Unemployment: 4.5%

Military defense budget in 2006: $441.9 billion

Barrels of oil consumed per day: 20.7 million

Number of Americans living without health insurance: 46 million

Average number of TV channels in a US home: 104.2

Number of states in which gay marriage is legal: 1

Number of airline passengers in 2006: 661 million

Percentage of citizens who have passports: 20%

© Lonely Planet Publications

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

the diverse American character. In one county alone (New York City’s borough of Queens) residents speak some 138 languages and more than 40%. Although the topic of immigration remains a heated one (the subject has been a source of contention since the country’s inception), few Americans contest the enormous contributions made by fresh-faced immigrants over the centuries.

In addition to the wide mix of racial and ethnic groups, America is a mishmash of factory workers and farmers, born-again Christians and Hatha yoga practitioners, literary-minded college students, tradi-tion-bound Native Americans, beer-swilling baseball lovers and back-to-nature commune dwellers. This is a country where regional stereotypes help Americans get a handle on their own elusive country, whether the people in question are gracious Southern belles, street-smart New Yorkers, humble Midwesterners, Southern Cal surfers or straight-talking Texans.

The collective identity, however, goes only so far in defining Ameri-cans. This is, after all, a country that celebrates – or rather mythologizes – the feats of ‘rugged individualism’, a notion well supported by the enor-mous ranks of the great and dastardly alike that have left their mark on America. This is the land of Teddy Roosevelt, John Muir, Jack Kerouac, Andy Warhol, Frank Lloyd Wright, Elvis Presley and Muhammad Ali. It is also the birthplace of Billy the Kid, Al Capone, the Dukes of Hazzard and hundreds of other real and fictional characters who contribute to that portrait of the American hero or villain heading off into the sunset.

Today’s stars shine no less brightly and each help redefine in some small way what it means to be American. From the inspiring activism of Willie Nelson and the auteur talents of filmmaker Jim Jarmusch to Al Gore’s lauded dedication to climate change, the powerful lyricism of Nobel Prize–winner Toni Morrison and the record-breaking achieve-ments of Olympic swimmer Michael Phelps, each have followed a dream that led them to undoubtedly surprising places.

America is still a place where big dreamers can triumph over ad-versity. Although 40 years have passed since Martin Luther King was assassinated, his message of hope lives on. No one in recent history has demonstrated that more clearly than Barack Obama, America’s first African American president.

‘If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible; who still wonders if the dream of our found-ers is alive in our time; who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer.’ So began President-elect Barack Obama on the evening of November 4, 2008, following one of the most surprising presidential victories in history.

The next day, newspapers across the country sold out quickly, despite enormously increased press runs, as Americans hurried out to snatch up a piece of history for which they themselves were responsible. In-deed, it was a historic moment for America. This once bitterly divided nation – with a legacy of slavery – looked past its differences and elected an African American man to the highest office in the land. And voters did so by an overwhelming margin.

As Obama went on to say in his victory speech, ‘It’s been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this day, in this elec-tion, at this defining moment, change has come to America.’ Change – that magic word so bandied about by both parties in the run-up to the election – played a pivotal role in Obama’s success. Yet, despite the unprecedented moment in US history, change is no stranger on

D E S T I N AT I O N U S A 23

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the American scene. Even America’s creation was a daring paradigm shift in a world of monarchies and autocracies. A country founded as a religion-tolerant refuge by early colonists later became the world’s first – and perhaps its most brilliantly envisaged – democratic republic. Over the centuries, visionary statesman such as Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt have helped move the country in bold new directions, but it was courageous citizens, fighting (and sometimes sacrificing their lives) in the battle against injustice, who’ve brought about some of America’s most profound changes – in abolishing slavery, earning equal rights for women, protecting the environment and enshrining fair wages and work-ing conditions for laborers.

Citizens from all walks of life have participated in ‘the great American experiment’, a concept that rewards bold ideas and hard work, no matter one’s place in society. The results of nurturing this entrepreneurial spirit have been far-reaching. From the historic flight by the Wright brothers to the Apollo moon landing, Americans have achieved ambitious goals. Technological revolutions beginning with Thomas Edison’s light bulb and Henry Ford’s automobile continue today in the pioneering work by Bill Gates, Steve Jobs and Larry Page. Microsoft, iPod and Google have changed the way people work, learn and interact across the industrialized world. American advances in science, medicine and countless other fields have brought meaningful changes to many lives.

The spirit of innovation remains alive and well, but on other fronts, Americans seem less optimistic. As this book went to press, predictions of a long, grave recession hung in the air, stemming in part from the mortgage meltdown that erupted late in the Bush presidency. Between 2007 and 2008, more than one million Americans lost their homes to fore closure as unemployment soared – with some 10 million out of work (the highest figure since WWII).

Health care is another dispiriting topic for many Americans. Despite playing a leading role in the advancement of medical technology, the USA remains the world’s only wealthy industrialized country that does not provide universal health care for its citizens. More than 46 million Americans currently live without health insurance, and analysts pre-dicted that the economic downturn and rising unemployment would add another two million to their ranks.

Addressing these grievous issues – plus the ongoing wars in Iraq and Afghanistan – remain the biggest challenges of the day. Americans, however, are not easily put down. As John F Kennedy once said, ‘The American, by nature, is optimistic. He is experimental, an inventor and a builder who builds best when called upon to build greatly.’

24 D E S T I N AT I O N U S A

Got your map? Ready to plot your itinerary? Just remember: the USA covers a continent and more. Texas alone is twice the size of Germany, so you may need to adjust your sense of scale. It’s easy to get overambitious, blow your budget and spend more time getting to sights than actually seeing them. That old chestnut about packing – lay out everything you need and put half back – applies here too: plan what you want to see in the time you have, then take out half the stops.

You’ll also need to consider transportation options carefully, balancing cost, time and flexibility – and your carbon footprint. The ‘best’ mix varies by region and route. For more ecotravel advice, see ‘Traveling Responsibly’ ( p27 ).

WHEN TO GO America’s size plays to the traveler’s advantage when it comes to weather: it’s always perfect somewhere in the US and just shy of Hades somewhere else.

In other words, either your destination or your trip’s timing may need tweak-ing depending on the season. For more specific regional info, see each chapter’s ‘Land & Climate’ section. For current forecasts, visit www.weather.com.

The main holiday season is, naturally, summer, which typically begins on Memorial Day (the last Monday in May) and ends on Labor Day (the first Monday in September). But Americans take their holidays mainly in summer because schools are closed, not because the weather’s uniformly ideal: yes, hit the beaches in August, because Manhattan is a shimmering sweat bath and the deserts are frying pans.

The seasons don’t arrive uniformly either. Spring (typically March to May) and fall (usually September to November) are often the best travel times, but ‘spring’ in parts of the Rockies and Sierras may not come till June. By then it’s only a sweet memory in Austin, while in Seattle, spring often means rain, rain, rain.

And winter? It’s expensive high-season at ski resorts and in parts of the southern US (blame migrating snowbirds), but planned well, winter can mean you have the riches of America’s landscape virtually all to yourself.

Whether you’re planning to join them or avoid them, holidays ( p1121 ) and festivals ( p1119 ) are another thing to consider.

COSTS & MONEY An economical US trip is possible, but it is very, very easy to spend much more than you bargained for, no matter what your travel style. Mode of transportation is a big factor, as is destination: US cities don’t chip away at budgets, they jackhammer them into pieces.

Getting Started

See Climate Charts ( p1116 ) for more information.

HOW MUCH?

Broadway show: $100-250

Bottle of wine: $7-9

Gallon of milk: $3.50

Internet access per hour: $3-5

Pound of apples: $1.20

See also Lonely Planet Index, inside front cover.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

Checking current US visa and passport requirements ( p1127 ). Hotel reservations, particularly for your first night and near national parks ( p1111 ). Your driver’s license and adequate liability insurance ( p1142 ). Not driving? Do it anyway – you

might change your mind once you see how big this place is.

A handful of credit cards – they’re easier and safer than cash.

An open mind. You’ll find elites in the Ozarks and hicks in Manhattan, and everything in between.

25

G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u r e l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om

Only the extremely thrifty will spend less than $100 a day. A comfortable midrange budget typically ranges from $175 to $225 a day; this usually gets you a car, gas, two meals, a good hotel and a museum admission or two. Spending over $300 a day isn’t hard: just splash out a few times, drive a lot, and stay, eat and whoop it up in New York, Chicago, San Francisco etc.

In this guide, we define a ‘midrange’ hotel very broadly (as $80 to $200): in rural areas, $100 buys a princely night’s sleep, but in some cities, clean places start at $200. The same math holds for meals.

To travel on the cheap, plan on camping or hosteling ($15 to $25 a night), cooking some of your own meals, and touring by bus. It’s not hard, but it limits your flexibility and it’s slower (which isn’t so bad). Be wary of budget motel come-ons; the sign might flash $39, but it’s probably for a single and won’t include tax.

Traveling by car is often a necessity. A rental is a minimum of $40 a day (type of car, tax and level of insurance can push it higher), plus gas. Planning the great American road trip? Petrol could cost more than the car itself (say, another $20 to $40 per day).

Mainly, don’t forget the second part of that travel chestnut: after you halve your clothes, double your estimated budget, and it’ll work out fine.

TRAVEL LITERATURE The American travelogue is its own literary genre. One could argue the first (and still the best) is Democracy in America (1835) by Alexis de Tocqueville, who wandered around talking to folks, then in pithy fashion distilled the philosophical underpinnings of the then-new American experiment.

America is often most vividly described by non-Americans: two Russian satirists, Ilya Ilf and Evgeny Petrov, road-tripped during the Great Depres-sion searching for the ‘real America’ (doesn’t everyone?), and their Ilf and Petrov’s American Road Trip (1935 & 2007) is a comic masterpiece laced with pungent critiques.

Those who prefer their commentary, like their coffee, bitter and black should stuff The Air-Conditioned Nightmare (1945) by Henry Miller in their bag, written while the irascible Miller canvassed America during WWII.

Celebrated travel writer Jan Morris was clearly smitten with the country in Coast to Coast (1956); it’s crisp, elegant and poignant, particularly her experience in the pre–Civil Rights South.

Two other famous, and not to be missed, American travelogues are Jack Kerouac’s headlong On the Road (1957) and John Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley (1962), about his trek across America with his poodle for company.

At a crossroad in life, William Least Heat-Moon’s Blue Highways (1982) is a moving pastiche of ‘average Americans’ as it follows one man’s attempt to find himself by losing himself.

Not strictly a travelogue, On the Rez (2000) by Ian Frazier provides a good taste of what it’s like to be friends with an Oglala Sioux, and of contemporary Native American reservation life. It is a journey of history and heart that goes into America, rather than across it.

Some make a life of crossing America. In American Nomads (2003), Englishman Richard Grant meditates on all those mythic types (the Indians, cowboys, truckers and hobos) who, like him, can’t seem to stop wandering the West. While family-man and cross-country warrior Robert Sullivan does much the same in Cross Country (2006), but with kids. Both make ideal companions.

See p65 for American literature.

To travel on the cheap, plan on camping or hosteling ($15 to $25 a night), cooking some of your own meals, and touring by bus.

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l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

TRAVELING RESPONSIBLY

Since our inception in 1973, Lonely Planet has encouraged our readers to tread lightly, travel responsibly and enjoy the serendipitous magic independent travel affords. International travel is growing at a jaw-dropping rate, and we still firmly believe in the benefits it can bring – but, as always, we encourage you to consider the impact your visit will have on both the global environment and the local economies, cultures and ecosystems.

In America, ‘going green’ has become seriously trendy, and businesses of all stripes now slap ‘we’re green!’ stickers on their products and services (though many Americans would agree with The Simpsons Movie when it calls global warming ‘an irritating truth’). For the traveler, determining how ecofriendly a business actually is can be difficult. Thankfully many resources are springing up, and we have tried to recommend ecofriendly businesses (and highlight local green initia-tives) throughout this guide.

To Drive or Not to Drive Where adequate public transportation exists, choosing it over renting a car will decrease your carbon footprint. But realistically, a car is often a necessity in the US – so, choose ecofriendly cars when available (ask the majors – they’re getting them!). The auto association Better World Club (www.betterworldclub.com; p1141 ) supports environmental legislation and offers eco-friendly services.

Two US car rental companies specializing in hybrid and electric cars are Bio-Beetle (www.bio-beetle.com) and EV Rental Cars (www.evrental.com), though locations are currently limited (mainly Hawaii, California and Arizona).

To Buy or Not to Buy State and regional tourism associations are springing up to certify ecofriendly businesses, hotels, services, tours and outfitters. Here is a list of some; review them before making reservations.Alaska Wilderness Recreation and Tourism Association (www.awrta.org) Chicago Sustainable Business Alliance (www.sustainablechicago.biz)Go Nomad (www.gonomad.com) Ecotours worldwide.Green Hotel Association (www.greenhotels.com) Ecofriendly hotels nationwide.Greenopia (www.greenopia.com) San Francisco and Los Angeles ecoguides (eventually to a dozen cities). Hawaii Ecotourism Association (www.hawaiiecotourism.org)Travel Green Wisconsin (www.travelgreenwisconsin)Vital Communities (www.vitalcommunities.org) Green restaurants and local farmers markets in Vermont and New Hampshire.

Sustainable Travel: The Bigger Picture ‘Sustainable travel’ is more than making ‘green’ choices; it’s a way of interacting as you walk. It’s practicing low-impact hiking and camping ( p102 ). It’s perhaps adding volunteering to a va-cation ( p1130 ). It’s also simply learning about destinations and cultures and understanding the challenges they face. For national and regional issues, see the Environment chapter (p103) and check out these resources:Climatecrisis.net (www.climatecrisis.net) Official website for the documentary An Inconvenient Truth; offers carbon offset programs, advice and information.Hawaii 2050 (www.hawaii2050.org) State-sponsored initiative to create a sustainable Hawaiian economy.National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations (www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/sustainable) Promotes ‘geotourism’ with its ‘Geocharter maps’; currently three in the US: Arizona’s Sonoran Desert, Vermont and Appalachia.Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) Provides ecoguides, tour booking, a carbon-offset program and more.

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G E T T I N G S TA R T E D l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om

PARTIES & PARADES Americans will use any excuse to party. Seriously. There’s a festival for sock monkeys ( p574 )! No slight to sock monkey fans, but here are 10 worth planning a trip around. For more, see the destination chapters, see p1119 and visit www.festivals.com.

GOOD BOOKS A good book is as essential to a successful trip as gas in the car and money in your wallet. Here are our recommendations for 10 great recent novels that capture a kaleidoscope of American regional voices.

SCENIC DRIVES A road trip is nothing without roads. Here are 10 doozies. Frankly, we had to arm-wrestle over favorites, so consider this list incomplete. See the Itineraries chapter (p30) for more, and for America’s ‘official’ scenic roads, visit www.byways.org.

Hawaii(USA)UNITEDSTATES OFAMERICA Washington,DC

TOP 10

1 Mummer’s Parade, Philadelphia (Pennsylva-nia), New Year’s Day ( p206 )

2 Mardi Gras, New Orleans (Louisiana), Febru-ary or March ( p440 )

3 National Cherry Blossom Festival, Washing-ton, DC, late March/April ( p319 )

4 Conch Republic Independence Celebration, Key West (Florida), April (p517)

5 Fiesta San Antonio (Texas), mid-April ( p708 )

6 Gullah Festival, Beaufort (South Carolina), late May ( p399 )

7 Red Earth Native American Cultural Festival, Oklahoma City (Oklahoma), early June ( p683 )

8 SF Gay Pride Month, San Francisco (Califor-nia), June ( p964 )

9 Great American Beer Festival, Denver (Colo-rado), early September ( p749 )

10 American Royal Barbecue, Kansas City (Mis souri), early October ( p655 )

1 Flight (2007) by Sherman Alexie

2 Later, at the Bar (2007) by Rebecca Barry

3 Talk Talk (2007) by TC Boyle

4 The Yiddish Policeman’s Union (2007) by Michael Chabonn

5 I Love You, Beth Cooper (2007) by Larry Doyle

6 Wounded (2005) by Percival Everett

7 Returning to Earth (2006) by Jim Harrison

8 The Shape Shifter (2006) by Tony Hillerman

9 Sight Hound (2005) by Pam Houston

10 The Plot Against America (2004) by Philip Roth

1 Hana Hwy (Hwy 360), Maui, Hawaii: 38 miles from Pauwela to Hana ( p1106 )

2 Turquoise Trail (Hwy 14), New Mexico: 45 miles from Albuquerque to Santa Fe ( p875 )

3 Columbia River Hwy (Hwy 30), Oregon: 74 miles from Troutdale to The Dalles ( p1042 )

4 Pig Trail Byway (Hwy 23), Arkansas: 80 miles from Ozark to Eureka Springs ( p457 )

5 Hwy 12, Utah: 107 miles from Torrey to Bryce Canyon NP ( p868 )

6 Overseas Hwy (Hwy 1), Florida: 160 miles from Miami to Key West ( p510 ).

7 Delmarva Peninsula (Hwys 50 and 13): 210 miles from Annapolis, Maryland, to Virginia Beach, Virginia ( p337 and p360 )

8 Route 66 (initial section): 300 miles from Chicago, Illinois, to St Louis, Missouri ( p576 )

9 Pacific Coast Hwy (Hwy 1), California: 332 miles from San Francisco to Santa Barbara ( p940 ).

10 Blue Ridge Parkway: 469 miles from Shen-andoah NP, Virginia, to Great Smoky Moun-tains NP, North Carolina ( p364 )

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INTERNET RESOURCES Bathroom Diaries (www.thebathroomdiaries.com) A compilation of clean bathrooms worldwide (with awards!), including every state in the USA. Its bathroom stories are a hoot. Johnny Jet (www.johnnyjet.com) Compiled by an inveterate traveler, this website links to perhaps all the travel information you’ll ever need. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) US travel news and summaries, the Thorn Tree bulletin board, and links to more web resources.Roadside America (www.roadsideamerica.com) Sure, see the Statue of Liberty. But don’t miss the ‘Muffler Men’! For weird, wacky Americana, start here. Roadtrip America (www.roadtripamerica.com) Planning the classic road trip? This site helps with nitty-gritty tips: routes, driving advice, fuel calculator, eating and much more.USA.gov (www.usa.gov/Citizen/Topics/Travel.shtml) The closest thing to a national tourism information resource, on the US government’s official website.

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CLASSIC ROUTES CITIES BY THE SEA 10 Days to Three Weeks/Boston to Maryland The nice thing about East Coast metropoli? They’re near the beach! Balance culture, history and cuisine with coastal idylls and long naps in the sun.

Arrive in revolutionary Bah-ston ( p229 ), then go to sandy Cape Cahd ( p246 ), and keep going till you reach Prah-vincetown ( p251 ), where the Pilgrims landed. Pretty, ain’t it?

Scoot around on I-195 to Rhode Island’s quaint Newport ( p262 ); time your visit for a music festival ( p264 ).

Now, tackle New York City ( p136 ). Once you’ve had your fill of the bustling Big Apple, escape to the Hamptons ( p179 ) on Long Island; what was the hurry, again?

In New Jersey, go ‘down the shore’ to Long Beach Island ( p194 ), and if you’re the gambling sort, Atlantic City ( p195 ) and its boardwalk.

Then, make time for Philadelphia ( p197 ), Baltimore ( p325 ), and Washington, DC ( p306 ). You did plan three weeks, right?

Finally, cross Chesapeake Bay and relax on Maryland’s Eastern Shore ( p337 ), and get your mellow back for good at Assateague Island (boxed text, p340 ).

Itineraries

O C E A N

A T L A N T I C

Jersey

Hampshire

New York

New

Massachusetts

Vermont

Connecticut

Rhode Island

New

Maryland

Delaware

Pennsylvania

Virginia

West Virginia

The Hamptons

WASHINGTON

BOSTONProvincetown

Newport

New York City

Philadelphia

Atlantic City

Baltimore

ExpresswayCity

Atlantic

Garden State Parkway

Long Beach Island

Cape Cod

BayChesapeake

Assateague Island

C A N A D A

195

95

495

95

95

33

20

50

Why are easterners so cranky? Because East Coast high-ways couldn’t be more congested. So why on earth do this road trip? Slow down, avoid rush hour, hit the beaches often, and for 1000 detour-laden miles it’s one first-class metropo-lis after another.

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I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s

THE LEFT COAST Two to Three Weeks/Portland to Joshua Tree Geographically and politically, the West Coast couldn’t be further from Washington, DC. This is a trip for those who lean left, and who like their nature ancient and ornery. You won’t need to shave but once or twice.

Pretty, affable Portland ( p1028 ) is a great place to start. Then jump right into nature’s bounty by driving east along the Columbia River Gorge (boxed text, p1042 ). At The Dalles, turn south and make for Mount Hood ( p1043 ) for skiing or hiking (depending on the season). From Bend ( p1044 ), enjoy more cascades adventures in the Three Sisters Wilderness Area ( p1044 ) and Crater Lake ( p1045 ).

Catch a Shakespearian play at Ashland ( p1045 ), then trade the mountains for the coast: enter California via Hwy 199 and the magnificent Redwood National Park ( p981 ).

Hug the coast through funky North Coast towns ( p978 ), get lost on the Lost Coast ( p980 ), catch Hwy 1 and buy art in Mendocino ( p979 ). Make your way inland to Napa Valley ( p974 ) for a wash-up and wine tasting, and thence to the hilly, defiantly strange burg of San Francisco ( p950 ).

Return to scenic Hwy 1 ( p950 ) through Santa Cruz ( p948 ), Monterey ( p946 ) and most of all, Big Sur ( p944 ), where you can get seriously scruffy again. By the time you reach Hearst Castle ( p944 ) you can actually start swimming in the water.

Finally, Los Angeles ( p900 ) – aka LA, la-la land, the city of angels. Go ahead, indulge your fantasies of Hollywood ( p906 ), Venice Beach ( p912 ) and club culture ( p918 ). Then, creeped out by artifice perhaps, hop aboard a ferry for the wildlife-rich Channel Islands ( p940 ) and make a desert pilgrimage to Joshua Tree National Park ( p936 ). Aaah, that’s better.

O C E A N

P A C I F I C

MexicoNew

Montana

Wyoming

Colorado

Washington

Oregon

Idaho

Nevada

California

Arizona

Utah

Bend

Ashland

Mendocino

MontereyBig Sur

Portland

San Francisco

Santa Cruz

Los Angeles

CastleHearst

LakeCrater

IslandsChannel

River GorgeColumbia

ValleyNapa

CoastLost

C A N A D A

M E X I C O

National ParkJoshua Tree

Wilderness AreaThree Sisters

National ParkRedwoods

Mount Hood (1,239ft)84

5

10

197

97

62199

29

1

1

101

101

Let’s see. In 1400 miles, is there eco-friendly outdoor adventure? Check. Microbrews and fine wines? Check. Heart-stopping ancient forests and mountains? Check. Legendary coastal drives? Check. Freaks, visionaries and radicals? Check. Surf beaches, gourmet cuisine, cutting-edge art, multicultural cit-ies? Check, check, check. Why, it’s the West Coast!

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THE GREAT RIVER ROAD 10 Days to Two Weeks/Minneapolis to New Orleans The Mississippi River marks a physical and psychological divide, and along this spine runs America’s greatest music: blues, jazz, and rock and roll. Hwy 61 is the legendary route, though numerous other roads join up, run parallel and intersect with it.

Progressive, artistic, youthful Minneapolis ( p623 ) is the easiest starting point, though some might want to start further north in Hibbing ( p635 ), Bob Dylan’s birthplace. Hwy 61 then winds scenically on either side of the Mississippi River to Hannibal ( p650 ), Missouri, the birthplace of Mark Twain. Gateway to the West, St Louis ( p643 ) also bills itself as the ‘Home of the Blues,’ though original rock-and-roller Chuck Berry still plays here, too.

The next major destination is Memphis ( p460 ), where you can pay homage to Elvis Presley at Graceland and rock and roll at Sun Studio. To complete your musical pilgrimage, take a quick detour on I-40 to Nashville ( p468 ), the home of country music. South of Memphis, Hwy 61 runs through the Mississippi Delta ( p427 ), where the blues was born: Clarksdale ( p427 ) is where Robert Johnson bargained with the devil. The town’s still jumpin’ with blues joints, while Natchez ( p431 ) is full of antebellum homes.

South of Baton Rouge, a detour along Hwy 1 leads past the famous 19th-century Mississippi River Plantations ( p449 ).

Then you arrive at New Orleans ( p433 ), birthplace of jazz. The ‘Big Easy,’ despite its recent hard times ( p432 ), is a place where lazy mornings blend into late nights, and you should leave plenty of time to go with the flow.

M e x i c oG u l f o f

nagihciMDakota

North

DakotaSouth

sotaMinne-

sippiMissis-

Oklahoma

Wisconsin

OhioIndiana

Illinois

Arkansas

Missouri

Tennessee

KentuckyKansas

Nebraska

Iowa

Georgia

Louisiana

Alabama

Texas Florida

NASHVILLE

Hibbing

Natchez

Hannibal

Clarksdale

St Louis

Minneapolis

Memphis

New OrleansPlantationsMississippi River

atleD ip

pissi s s iM

C A N A D A

40

61

61

61

Just about all of the epic, legen-dary, even revo-lutionary history of American music can be experienced along this 1200-mile stretch of the Mississippi River. Throw in a 400-mile sidetrip to Nashville, and what you have is the musical journey of a lifetime.

32

I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s

GO EAST, YOUNG MAN Three Weeks to One Month/San Francisco to Miami For those contemplating the full monty, coast to coast, here’s a suggestion: start in San Francisco and head into the rising sun. This route snags some seriously fun cities and some classic American scenery, but be warned: it’ll be hot come July and August.

From anything-goes San Francisco ( p950 ), head for Yosemite ( p989 ) and Sequoia National Parks ( p993 ) in the Sierra Nevada – now that’s scenery! Skirt the Mojave Desert ( p938 ) on I-15 and hit Las Vegas ( p809 ) – now that’s fun! Stop at the Grand Canyon ( p835 ) for the obligatory photo-op, rattle around funky Flagstaff ( p831 ) and Sedona ( p833 ), and roll east on I-40.

In New Mexico, unlike Bugs Bunny, take that left at Albuquerque ( p873 ) along the Turquoise Trail ( p875 ) and detour to artsy, adobe Santa Fe ( p879 ), just cause it’s so cute.

Drop south on I-25 through scenic southwestern New Mexico ( p890 ), pick up I-10 into Texas, and admire jaw-dropping Big Bend National Park ( p734 ). Saunter through bucolic Texas Hill Country ( p703 ) to Austin ( p695 ), for good music and drinking. Pause for folk art in Houston ( p710 ) then giddy-up for party-central, New Orleans ( p433 ). Keep dancing and eatin’ in Cajun Country ( p450 ).

Depending on your time, explore fun-loving Mobile ( p425 ) and the beaches of the Florida Panhandle ( p538 ), but whatever you do, visit Walt Disney World ( p535 ); like the Grand Canyon, it must be seen to be believed.

Now, along Florida’s Gulf Coast, enjoy St Petersburg ( p528 ), clown around in Sarasota ( p530 ) and pick seashells at Sanibel & Captiva Islands ( p531 ). Bisect the alligator-filled swamps of the tremendous Everglades ( p506 ) and arrive in Miami ( p492 ). Finally, with a beach, a mojito and some Cuban cuisine, you’re ready to party till sunrise. Sweet!

O C E A N

BayJames

M e x i c o

O C E A N

G u l f o f

P A C I F I C

A T L A N T I C

YorkRI

Virginia

CarolinaSouth

Carolina

Dakoda

Dakoda

MichiganNew

New Mexico

South

North

North

Maine

NHMassachusetts

Vermont

CT

NJ

Maryland

DEPennsylvania

Wisconsin

Virginia

OhioWestIndiana

Illinois

Arkansas

Missouri

Tennessee

Kentucky

Montana

Wyoming

Kansas

Oklahoma

Colorado

Nebraska

Minnesota

Iowa

GeorgiaMississippi

Louisiana AlabamaTexas

Florida

Washington

Oregon

Idaho

NevadaCalifornia

Arizona

Utah

MIAMI

SarasotaSt Petersburg

Mobile

NEW ORLEANSAustin

Houston

Santa Fe

Sedona

FranciscoSan

Flagstaff

Las Vegas

ALBUQUERQUE

Walt Disney World

National ParkEverglades

National ParkBig Bend

National ParkGrand Canyon

PreserveNationalMojave

ParkNationalSequoiaParkNationalYosemite

Captiva IslandsSanibel &

C A N A D A

C U B A

M E X I C O

15

4040

25

1010 10

10

4

120

41

65

58 93

385 290 90

9850

41

This is the trip you have to do at least once – coast to coast, ocean to ocean, sunrise to sunset (or in this case, vice versa). It’s 3500 miles, give or take. Some do it in days, oth-ers take months. There’s no right or wrong, no rules, no ‘best’ route. Just go.

33

I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s

WESTERN MIGRATIONS Two to Three Weeks/Chicago to Seattle ‘The West’ is not one thing. It’s a panoply of landscapes and personalities that unfold as, like an eager pioneer, you journey from past to future. No single route could capture it all; this stretch of I-90 is book-ended by world-class cities and packed with heartbreakingly beautiful country.

Chicago ( p547 ) – the Second City, the Windy City – is the Midwest’s great-est city. Follow I-90 to youthful Madison ( p617 ) and the quirk along Hwy 12 ( p619 ) to dispel any myths about Midwestern sobriety.

Detour north to arty Minneapolis ( p623 ) for more Midwest liberalism. Return to I-90 and activate cruise control, admiring the corn (and the Corn Palace, p665 ) and the flat, flat South Dakota plains. See why Westerners are crazy?

Hit the brakes for the Badlands ( p666 ) and plunge into the reckless Wild West. In the Black Hills ( p667 ), contemplate competing monuments at Mount Rushmore ( p670 ) and Crazy Horse ( p670 ). Watch mythic gunfights in Dead-wood ( p669 ) and visit the sobering Pine Ridge Reservation ( p666 ), site of the Wounded Knee massacre.

Halfway across Wyoming, take Hwy 14 to Cody ( p779 ) for the rodeo. Save plenty of time for the wild majesty and wildlife of Yellowstone ( p781 ) and Grand Teton National Parks ( p785 ).

Through Montana, the newly hip ranching towns of Bozeman ( p789 ) and Missoula ( p792 ) make fun stops. For serious western adventure, detour to Glacier National Park ( p795 ) and the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex ( p795 ).

Back on I-90 into Washington, stop in unassuming Spokane ( p1024 ) and end in Seattle ( p1003 ) – which embodies the high-tech, eco-conscious New West. Still got time? Take in Mount Rainier ( p1025 ), Olympic National Park ( p1017 ), and the San Juan Islands ( p1021 ). See why everyone went west?

O C E A NP A C I F I C

Michigan

Illinois

Indiana

Tennessee

Kentucky

Mississippi

Arkansas

Missouri

Wisconsin

Minnesota

Iowa

Dakoda

Dakoda

South

North

Nebraska

New Mexico

Kansas

Oklahoma

Montana

Wyoming

Colorado

Idaho

Utah

Arizona

Nevada

California

Oregon

Washington

Louisiana

Texas

Spokane

MissoulaBozeman

MADISON

CHICAGO

MINNEAPOLISCody

SEATTLE

Black HillsMt Rushmore (Mitchell)

Corn Palace

ParkNationalOlympic

ParkNationalGlacier

National ParkYellowstone

National ParkGrand Teton

National ParkBadlands

IslandsSan Juan

C A N A D A

M E X I C O

(14,411ft)Mt Rainier

5

90

90

90

90

35 94

90

293

89

14

101

From Midwest to Wild West to New West: this route is a 2700-mile medi-tation on America’s evolving western frontier. Only by seeing the West’s endless plains, eroded deserts, towering moun-tains and ragged coast can you begin to understand its inhabitants’ singular multiple personalities.

34

I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s L e s s T r a v e l e d

ROADS LESS TRAVELED THE GRAND CIRCLE Two to Four Weeks/Las Vegas to Las VegasIn another era, the Grand Circle was a leisure-class journey to all the rug-ged, raw natural splendors of the New World. It took several months, and still can, but today you only need a few weeks to witness some of the most amazing geological spectacles Mother Nature has yet devised – as well as get acquainted with Southwest Native American cultures.

Nothing natural about Las Vegas ( p809 ), but it’s a great place to start. From here, take I-15 northeast to Utah’s Zion National Park ( p871 ). Catch Hwy 89 and then go east on Hwy 12 ( p868 ) – one of the most amazing drives in the world, containing as it does Bryce Canyon National Park ( p870 ), the Grand Stair-case-Escalante National Monument ( p869 ) and Capitol Reef National Park ( p868 ). You’ll gain a new appreciation for rock.

Take Hwy 24 to I-70, head east, then catch Hwy 191 south to Moab ( p865 ), Arches National Park ( p866 ) and Canyonlands National Park ( p867 ). Head south-east on Hwy 666 to Mesa Verde National Park ( p776 ), then take your cultural wonder west on Hwy 160 to Monument Valley ( p843 ) and the Navajo National Monument ( p843 ). Double back to go south on Hwy 191 to catch Canyon de Chelly National Monument ( p843 ), then west on Hwy 264 through the mesas of the Hopi Indian Reservation ( p844 ).

Next, it’s the granddaddy of river erosion, the Grand Canyon ( p835 ). Go south and clean up in Flagstaff ( p831 ), then return to Las Vegas by I-40 and Hwy 93, pausing to admire the concrete pile called Hoover Dam ( p818 ).

MexicoNew

Colorado

Nevada

California

Arizona

Utah

DamHoover

Flagstaff

Moab

Las Vegas

MonumentNationalNavajo

ReservationHopi Indian

ParkNational

ParkNationalCanyonBryce

National ParkCapitol Reef

MonumentChelly National

ParkNationalArches

ParkNational

National ParkGrand Canyon

Canyon de

Mesa Verde

National ParkCanyonlands

MonumentEscalante NationalGrand Staircase-

Zion

ValleyMonument

15

12

40

70

93

24

191

491

160160

191

264

Canyons a mile deep, deserts painted a rainbow, crumbling buttes, pueblo-topped mesas, ancient civilizations hidden in the cliffs – you can’t make this stuff up. To see it all requires 1400 brutal miles of slow, sun-baked roads, and it’s worth every saddle sore.

35

I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s L e s s T r a v e l e d

THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE Two to Four Weeks/ Albuquerque to Glacier National Park On one side rivers run east, on the other, west. You’ll trace the mountains in between, finding constant excuses to ditch the car and hike, climb, raft, bike, ski and get dirty. Just remember: the mountains only get prettier further north, so don’t forget to drive.

Start in Albuquerque ( p873 ) and take the Turquoise Trail ( p875 ) to arty Santa Fe ( p879 ). Between here and trippy Taos ( p886 ), check out the Pueblos ( p884 ), atomic Los Alamos ( p885 ) and Bandelier National Monument ( p885 ) for camping.

Follow Hwy 84 into Colorado. Enjoy bikes and brews in Durango ( p770 ) and admire the ancient cliff-dwellings of Mesa Verde ( p776 ). Ready for more scenery? Take the ‘Million Dollar Hwy’ (Hwy 550), stopping in Silverton ( p771 ); for hot springs in Ouray ( p772 ); and a quick detour to gorgeous Tel-luride ( p773 ). Then go east on Hwy 50, through the Black Canyon of the Gunnison ( p777 ), and north on Hwy 24 to ritzy Vail ( p764 ).

Relax a spell in laid-back Boulder ( p753 ) and Rocky Mountain National Park ( p756 ). For time’s sake, stay north on I-25, and in Wyoming, take I-80 west to Hwy 287: follow this to Lander ( p780 ) for rock climbing. Now get thee to Grand Teton ( p785 ) and Yellowstone ( p781 ) National Parks.

In Montana, take Hwy 89 north and I-90 west to Bozeman ( p789 ) and Missoula ( p792 ), both enjoyable places to stock up before the final push. Serious wilderness calls in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex ( p795 ) and Glacier National Park ( p795 ).

And really, there’s no reason not to keep following the Rockies into Can-ada; if anything, Banff and Jasper National Parks only get more dramatically beautiful. But that’s a story for another book (namely, LP’s Canada).

O C E A N

P A C I F I CMexico

New

Dakota

South

Dakota

NorthMontana

Wyoming

Kansas

OklahomaTexas

Colorado

Nebraska

Washington

OregonIdaho

Nevada

California

Arizona

Utah

Telluride

Missoula

Bozeman

Lander

BoulderVail

OuraySilverton

Durango

TaosLos Alamos

ALBUQUERQUE

Santa FePueblos

Wilderness ComplexThe Bob Marshall

National ParkYellowstone

National ParkGrand Teton

National ParkRocky Mountain

of the GunnisonBlack Canyon

National Monument

National ParkMesa Verde

MonumentBandelier National

ParkNationalGlacier

Desert

Mojave

C A N A D A

90

80

25

70

2

93

89

89

287

287

24

24

50550

64

12

Work hard, play hard – or at least, play hard. Name it, and you can probably do it in the Rocky Mountains. This 2000-mile route is built for those who don’t want to just admire nature’s munificence, but to roll around in it, then swap stories over a beer.

36

I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s L e s s T r a v e l e d

GENTLEMEN FARMERS & DAMN YANKEES Ten Days to Three Weeks/ New York City to Acadia National Park This is a good spring or summer trip, but in early fall – wow. Autumn dresses New England in auburn and scarlet, and the air is so crisp you can bite it. Stout personalities settled this region, which remains a mix of rugged wilderness, efficient towns and tidy farms.

Arrive in New York City ( p136 ); soak up the excitement, the cacophony, the crowds. When you’re full, rent a car and head north on I-87. Dip into the Catskills ( p182 ) along Hwy 28 for a first taste of East Coast forests, then continue north for the real deal: the Adirondacks ( p186 ). Settle in for a few days in Lake Placid ( p186 ) and explore the wilderness.

Take the ferry across Lake Champlain to youthful, outdoorsy Burlington ( p279 ), a great introduction to New England. A sidetrip to the Lake Champlain Islands ( p279 ) is splendid, then take I-89 southeast, stopping at the ski-town of Stowe ( p278 ). At Montpelier ( p277 ), take Hwy 302 east to New Hampshire.

Hwy 302 turns into Hwy 112, the Kancamagus Hwy ( p284 ), perhaps the prettiest drive in New England, through the magnificent White Mountains ( p284 ): waterfalls, hikes and quaint villages abound. At Hwy 16, go south to historic, maritime Portsmouth ( p281 ).

Now follow I-95 into Maine. Lively Portland ( p291 ) has surprisingly good eats. From Hwy 1, meander the Central Maine Coast ( p294 ): you’re hunting clam chowder, fresh lobster and nautical ports to let loose your inner sailor. Visit Bath ( p294 ), Boothbay Harbor ( p294 ), and Camden ( p296 ), for memorable windjammer cruises ( p295 ).

Finally, book yourself an historic inn in Bar Harbor ( p298 ) and dive into the unspoiled splendor of Acadia National Park ( p297 ).

O C E A N

A T L A N T I C

JerseyNew

HampshireNew

IslandRhode

Connecticut

YorkNew

Maine

Massachusetts

Vermont

Pennsylvania

Bar Harbor

Camden

Bath

Portland

Portsmouth

MONTPELIERStowe

Burlington

New York City

ParkNationalAcadia

ParkAdirondack

Catskill Park

MountainsWhite

HarborBoothbayChamplain

Lake

PlacidLake

GeorgeLake

OntarioLake

IslandsLake Champlain

C A N A D A

87

89

95

95100

1

90

1

86

733

28

3

302112

16

3

2

Never experi-enced fall in New England? Tired of hearing everyone blather on? Time this 1000-mile trip right, and you’ll join the proselytizers. Heck, it’s gorgeous any season, the chow-der and lobster kill, the maritime air stirs your blood, and that damn Yankee ingenuity is a marvel.

37

I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s L e s s T r a v e l e d

ALASKA’S INSIDE PASSAGE One to Three Weeks/Bellingham to Skagway You can take a car, but if you are looking for an unforgettable journey that doesn’t involve an automobile, consider cruising Alaska’s Inside Passage.

In summer the Alaska Marine Hwy ferries stop at towns nearly every day, and with advance notice you can get on and off at every one, just as long as you keep traveling in the same direction. See p1059 for ferry information.

Fly into Seattle ( p1003 ), Washington, and linger awhile or take a shuttle di-rectly to Bellingham ( p1021 ), where you catch the Alaska Marine Hwy ferry.

The first stop is Ketchikan ( p1059 ), which still has a rugged Western feel. It might be worth renting a car once you land on Prince of Wales Island ( p1060 ), which is the third-largest island in the USA.

Wrangell ( p1060 ) was founded by Russians, while pretty Petersburg ( p1061 ) has a Norwegian heritage. Rich with Native American culture and beautifully situated, Sitka ( p1062 ) shouldn’t be missed. Busy Juneau ( p1063 ) is Alaska’s capital, and from here it’s easy to get close to magnifi-cent Mendenhall Glacier ( p1064 ).

Haines ( p1065 ) is another sizable town, and Skagway ( p1067 ) is the end of the line. It is a well-preserved, nonthreatening version of its once-lawless gold-rush self.

You can also fly into or out of Juneau, or make it a round-trip and take the ferry back to Bellingham.

Seattle (1000mi)To Bellingham (920mi);

O C E A N

P A C I F I C

Alaska

Ketchikan

Skagway

Haines

JUNEAU

Sitka

Petersburg

Wrangell

IslandWales

ofPrince

IslandBaranof

IslandKupreanof

IslandAdmiralty

GlacierMendenhall

C A N A D A

A trip through Alaska’s Inside Passage is proof that Mother Nature is one wild woman. Awesome doesn’t begin to describe it. Calving glaciers, forests thick as night, pods of whales, trees full of eagles: it’s one of the most memo-rable trips ever.

38

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o r e d T r i p s

TAILORED TRIPS DUDE, THAT’S WEIRD Combine a fierce sense of independence with a vast landscape and what you get are crazies giving free rein to their obsessions. Call it ‘Americana.’ You’ve heard of the biggies (Mitchell’s Corn Palace, Las Vegas). Here are some others you shouldn’t miss.

First, what’s up with Stonehenge? Modern, personal iterations include Nebraska’s Carhenge ( p674 ), Virginia’s Foamhenge ( p364 ), and Florida’s Coral Castle ( p509 ).

Looking for the world’s largest…catsup bottle ( p577 )? Chair ( p318 )? Perhaps just a really big chicken ( p412 )? Americans know supersizing.

For sublime examples of ‘outsider’ or folk art, aim for Lucas, Kansas ( p679 ); Nitt Witt Ridge ( p950 ); the Mystery Castle ( p825 ); Dr Evermor’s Sculpture Park ( p619 ); and Houston’s Beer Can House ( p713 ) and Art Car Museum ( p713 ).

Sometimes Americans dress up madness by calling it a ‘museum.’ What do you make of the Spam Museum ( p633 ), Leila’s Hair Museum ( p657 ), the Bigfoot Discovery Museum ( p950 ), or – wait for it – the American Sanitary Plumbing Museum ( p257 )?

Americans celebrate strangely too! Join in the Interstate Mullet Toss ( p541 ), the Cow Chip Throw ( p619 ) and the Sock Monkey Festival ( p574 ). Cheer on the inmates at the Angola Prison Rodeo ( p450 )!

Finally, if the folks on the ground aren’t alien enough, look for the outer space kind at the UFO Watchtower ( p769 ). Hey, get married while you wait!

BOTTOMS UP! Americans like to drink. The US Constitution’s 21st Amendment (which ended the 14-year dry spell called Prohibition) establishes that emphatically, even legally. And they’re quite good at making the stuff, too.

These days, most states tout their ‘wine countries,’ and it ain’t all plonk. Cali-fornia’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys ( p974 ) are justifiably famous, but don’t neglect Santa Barbara ( p940 ), which is so good it inspired a movie: Sideways. Other wine regions to tour include Washington’s Walla Walla ( p1027 ), New York’s Finger Lakes ( p183 ), Long Island’s North Fork ( p181 ), Virginia’s Charlottesville ( p361 ) and Texas Hill Country ( p704 ). Cowboys knocking back merlot? Hell yeah.

Americans have been brewing beer from the start. Despite being the home of bland major-label beers (such as Pabst and Miller), Milwaukee ( p614 ) remains a beer-lover’s destination, as is Chicago ( p547 ). The microbrewery renaissance began out west: notable cities include Portland ( p1028 ), Seat-tle ( p1003 ), Boulder ( p753 ) and Durango ( p770 ). In California, Wine Country ( p950 ) and the North Coast ( p950 ) are sprinkled with fine homemade suds.

Those who prefer the hard stuff should make time for Kentucky, whose bourbon tour ( p484 ) makes for a genteel Southern experience.

Watchtower

Kansas

UFO

BottleCatsup

MuseumArt Car

House& Beer Can

LargestWorld's

MuseumHair

Leila's

FestivalMonkeySock

ThrowChip Museum

PlumbingSanitaryAmerican

Big Chicken

Foamhenge

ChairLargestWorld's

RodeoAngola Prison

Carhenge

CastleMystery

Spam Museum

Mullet TossInterstate

CastleCoral

Park; CowSculpture

Lucas,

Dr Evermor's

RidgeNitt Witt

MuseumDiscoveryBigfoot

ValleysSonomaNapa &

BarbaraSanta

CountryTexas Hill

ForkNorth

Seattle

Walla WallaPortland

North CoastBoulder

Durango Bourbon Tour

Charlottesville

LakesFinger

MilwaukeeChicago

39

I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o r e d T r i p s l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om

ISLAND-HOPPING Everybody wants to go across the USA, but traveling around it might make an even better trip. Start at Maine’s Acadia National Park ( p297 ) for a sunrise hike. Then go to historic Martha’s Vineyard ( p255 ), from where it’s a quick tack to the USA’s most famous island, Manhattan ( p136 ). Off the Virginia coast is Chincoteague Island ( p360 ), famous for its wild horses, and off North Carolina are the Outer Banks ( p377 ) and Cape Hatteras National Seashore ( p378 ), where the Wright brothers learned to fly, and you can too – by hang gliding.

Florida boasts Amelia Island ( p525 ), the string-of-pearls Florida Keys ( p510 ), the islands of Dry Tortugas National Park ( p519 ) and shell collecting on Sanibel

and Captiva Islands ( p531 ). Continuing along the Gulf of Mexico is Texas’

resort town of Galveston ( p718 ) and the gorgeously wild Padre Island National Seashore ( p720 ) – not to be confused with South Padre Island ( p721 ), where ‘gorgeous and wild’ describes the spring break party scene.

At this point, sail through the Panama Canal or go overland to California, where Catalina Island ( p921 ) has great snorkeling and Channel Islands National Park ( p940 ) is ‘California’s Galápagos.’ Keep going to Washington’s San Juan Islands ( p1021 ) and thence to the islands of Alaska’s Inside Passage ( p1059 ). Finally, of course, don’t forget Hawaii ( p1085 )!

WE’RE HERE, WE’RE QUEER It’s never been more fun to be gay in the USA. So long as you’re not trying to get married, gay travelers will find numerous places where they can be themselves without thinking twice. Naturally, beaches and big cities tend to be the gayest destinations, and why not? They’re the most fun!

Manhattan ( p136 ) is too crowded and cosmopolitan to worry about who’s holding hands, while Fire Island ( p179 ) is the sandy gay mecca on Long Island. Other East Coast cities that flaunt it are Boston ( p243 ), Philadelphia ( p197 ), Washington, DC ( p318 ), Baltimore ( p334 ) and Provincetown ( p251 ), Massachu-setts. Why even Maine brags a gay beach destination: Ogunquit ( p289 ).

In the South, there’s always steamy ‘Hotlanta’ ( p409 ) and Texas gets darn-right gay-friendly in Austin ( p702 ) and parts of Houston ( p716 ). In Florida, Miami ( p492 ) and the ‘Conch Republic’ of Key West ( p514 ) support thriving gay communities, though Fort Lauderdale ( p504 ) attracts bronze boys too. Of course, every-one gets their freak on in New Orleans ( p444 ).

In the Midwest, seek out Chicago ( p564 ) and Minneapolis ( p625 ). You will have heard of San Francisco ( p950 ), the happiest gay city in America, and what can gays and lesbians do in Los Angeles ( p900 )? Hmmm, just about anything. In fact, when LA is too much, try Palm Springs ( p934 ).

Lastly, for an island idyll, Hawaii ( p1085 ) is gay-friendly generally, but particularly in Waikiki ( p1097 ).

National ParkDry Tortugas

KeysFlorida

Inside Passage

Cape HatterasOuter Banks &

Captiva IslandsSanibel &

SeashoreNational

Galveston

Acadia National Park

Martha's VineyardManhattan

Chincoteague Island

National Seashore

Amelia Island

IslandSouth Padre

Padre Island

National ParkChannel Islands

Hawaii

Catalina Island

IslandsSan Juan

Hawaii

Ogunquit

Boston

Baltimore

AustinHouston

Chicago

Palm Springs

OrleansNew

IslandFire

MinneapolisProvincetownManhattan

Philadelphia

Washington, DC

Atlanta

Fort Lauderdale

Miami

Key West

Waikiki

Los Angeles

San Francisco

40

4

TIM BEWER They can’t match the majesty of mountains, but the wide open spaces of the plains (p637) provide their own sort of inspiration, especially when you get beyond the corn and wheat fields. The prairie has an undeniable beauty.

BECCA BLOND Duke (the dog) and I are watching Aaron fly-fishing on the river in Silverton (p771), Colorado here. It’s gorgeous out, and I’m thinking how happy I am to be on the road with my future husband and my dog (who is now on his third Lonely Planet assignment, although his research mostly involves smells).

ALEXIS AVERBUCK Being the dedicated researcher that I am, I dragged my weary self to the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (p440). Oh it was so hard. All those soft shell crabs. All that white chocolate bread pudding. The funky grooves of Jon Cleary and the Absolute Monster Gentlemen just swept me away.

SANDRA BAO Smith Rock is one of my favorite places in Oregon – for its glorious formations, scenic hiking and amazing rock climbing. I was here on my 40th birthday, leading my first outdoor 5.10B – scary but fun. This time I came to research and only had time for this photo…and some memories.

JEFF CAMPBELL Coordinating AuthorHawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park (p1102) has the only trail signs I’ve seen warning of ‘hot lava!’ Truth is, stumbling over miles of blackened lava till I reached the molten rock entering the sea gave me ‘chicken-skin.’ Even long past dark, it was hard to leave.

On the Road

5

BETH KOHN The road from Lees Ferry to Monument Valley (p868) was so blindingly gorgeous, it was hard to imagine it could get any better. Rolling in just before dusk, the park was quiet and practi-cally empty. The rock formations glowed a brilliant orange and the sunset seemed to last for hours.

MARIELLA KRAUSE At the Foun-tain of Youth (p523) in St Au-gustine, a nice couple offered to take my picture in front of this statue. An old man passing by said, ‘Ponce de Leon never had it so good!’ I told him that the fountain really worked and that I was 87 years old.

LISA DUNFORD It was 95°F in April as I trudged through Ter-lingua’s west Texas ghost town, where artists and free-thinkers inhabit abandoned miners’ shacks. Several have sustain-able gardens despite harsh conditions and no running water. I bought the general store’s books on water collec-tion, humanure; I thought, if they can make it work here…

DOMINIQUE CHANNELL Drinking on the job – hmm, can I write this off? This out-of-the-way, small-production winery, where everything’s done by hand in ancient-looking machines, was worth the long haul up the narrow bumpy road to the rough-redwood outdoor tast-ing ‘room’ – the fun-loving staff are still my friends.

BETH GREENFIELD My first day returning to my homeland – the Jersey Shore (p193) – was a chilly, wildly windy spring day. The huge sky was gray, and the sand was damp and sticking to my hair, and the cold ocean was frothy and tossing about from a crazy ‘Nor’easter’ storm that had hit the night before. These types of days on the NJ beaches are actually my favorite: unexpected and thrill-ing, and very alive.

ADAM KARLIN This is me, in front of the Lincoln Memorial, on the National Mall (p311), on July 4. The Mall was filled with every color and creed of Ameri-can, and I was damn proud to be among them, celebrat-ing the country, occasionally flawed but always home, that brings us all together.

6

See full author bios p1156

NICK MARINO Breakfast at the Blue and White, a diner along Hwy 61 in the Mississippi Delta (p427). Look closely and you’ll notice the essential travel accessories – car keys, camera bag, cell phone and sunglasses – resting on the counter next to an order of biscuits and gravy.

BRENDAN SAINSBURY Rain! Where else could I be? Stand-ing on Ruby Beach on the windswept Washington coast, I was caught in one of the region’s innumerable spring downpours. Poised on my arm, my son, Kieran, keeps an eye out for swooping eagles and foraging raccoons.

ANDREA SCHULTE-PEEVERS Yep, that’s me – getting goosed by a bull elephant, notebook in hand, no less! I’ve met ‘bulls’ before, of course, in Spain’s arenas, Germany’s beer halls and LA’s clubs. Few of them were as mannered as my friend here who only wanted to play. His name? Oh you know how it is, the day after…

EMILY MATCHAR Standing on Pedro’s foot at South of the Border (p398). When traveling down I-95, I can never avoid stopping at the kitsch carnival that is South of the Border and buying some neon taffy or giggling at the ‘artifacts’ in the Mexican souvenir shop.

NED FRIARY & GLENDA BENDURE Nantucket’s just a two-hour ferry ride from bustling Hyannis Harbor (p248), and even though we’ve been there before, waiting for the boat to depart feels like an ad-venture. The harbor’s abuzz with travelers hopping onto sightsee-ing boats, coming off the ferries and munching on fish and chips.

KARLA ZIMMERMAN Ahh, Wrigley Field (p558) in Chicago. If the sun is shining and the breeze is blowing, there’s no-where in the country that beats an afternoon spent here. I’m particularly happy at this game since not only did the Cubs not get clobbered – they won.

© Lonely Planet Publications

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