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Catalogue 16

SOPHIE SCHNEIDEMAN RARE BOOKS

CATALOGUE SIXTEEN

Food & Drink, Including Manuscript Cookery & Books&

Original Artwork from the Libraries of Derek Cooper and Alan Davidson

Eighteenth Century Cookery & Household Books Items 1–11Nineteenth Century Cookery & Household Books Items 12–38Twentieth Century Cookery & Household Books Items 39–68Wine, Beer &c, 1772–1982 Items 69–84Manuscript Cookery & Household Books, c.1790–1930 Items 85–92China, Prints & Ephemera Items 93–95

All the items are listed chronologically. They will be on view at the gallery Mon-Sun by appointment or chance.

If you are interested in buying or selling rare books, need a valuation or just honestadvice please contact me at the gallery:SCHNEIDEMAN, 331, Portobello Rd., by Golborne Road, London, W10 5SA020 8354 736507909 [email protected] www.ssrbooks.com

WE ARE PROUD TO BE A MEMBER OF THE ABA, PBFA & ILAB AND ARE PLEASED TO FOLLOWTHEIR CODES OF CONDUCT

Prices are in sterling and payment to Sophie Schneideman Rare Books by bank transfer,cheque or debit card is due upon receipt. Visa and Mastercard are accepted but an addi-tional 1.5% will be charged to cover processing charges. All books are sent on approvaland can be returned within 10 days by secure means if they have been wrongly or inade-quately described.

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The goods shall legally remain the property of Sophie Schneideman Rare Books untilthe price has been discharged in full.

Printed in Great Britain by Henry Ling Ltd, DorchesterDesigned in Shaker by Geoff Green Book Design, CambridgeShaker was designed by Jeremy Tankard in 2000Specific information about the typeface can be found at www.typography.net

Illustrations:Front cover: 41. NEWNHAM-DAVIS, Lt. Col. & Algernon BASTARD. The Gourmet’s Guide to Europe.Frontispiece: 67. [DAVIDSON, Alan.] Original portraits of Alan Davidson.Back cover: 40. SIMMONS, Owen. The Book of Bread. 0. 23. A LADY.Inside back cover: 88. JOHN & HENRY LOCKE, COOK & CONFECTIONERS, GLOS. Cookery Archive.

Derek Cooper

Derek Cooper was born in 1925 and became a well-known writer, journalist andbroadcaster. He writes about food, wine and whisky as well as publishing someexcellent books about the Highlands and Islands . Amongst other books he haswritten are Guide to the Whiskies of Scotland, A Fresh Taste of Britain, Wine with Food,Snail Eggs and Samphire, Skye Remembered, Road to the Isles and The Road toMingulay.

He was the creator of Radio 4’s famous and important Food Programme whichhe presented for many years. He was also a founder member and first Chairmanof the Guild of Food Writers. His energy and passion for food remains a great in-fluence among food writers and broadcasters to this day.

Alan Davidson (1924–2003)

Alan Davidson was a British diplomat and historian best known for his writingand editing on food and gastronomy.

He worked for the Foreign Office and served in Washington, Tunis, Brussels,Cairo, the Hague and, between 1973 and 1975, he was ambassador to Laos. Hiswriting career began when he was in Tunis and his wife asked him to look for acookbook on fish because she didn’t recognise the local varieties. He couldn’t findone so with the Italian ichthylogist Giorgio Bini, he wrote one himself and madecopies of this book Seafish of Tunisia and the Central Mediterranean with a stencilmachine. It came to the attention of the great Elizabeth David who passed it onto Penguin Books who published a trade edition in 1972 as Mediterranean Food.

He continued to write and produced Seafood of South East Asia (1976) andNorth Atlantic Seafood (1979). He also wrote on Lao Cuisine among other thingsbut his magnum opus came towards the end of his life when he wrote the ency-clopaedic Oxford Companion to Food (1999).

His influence as a publisher and editor was enormous. He began to edit thePetits Propos Culinaires in 1979 and it is still going strong to this day. It was pub-lished by Prospect Books, his own imprint under which he published several goodfood related books. He also founded the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookerywhich is still an important event for food historians everywhere.

Sophie Schneideman Rare Books Catalogue Sixteen 5

Eighteenth CenturySuperb copy of the rare second edition

1. HALL, T. The Queen’s Royal Cookery; or Expert andready Way for the Dressing of all Sorts of Flesh, Fowl,Fish … after the Best and Newest Way, With their sev-eral Sauces and Sallads. And making all Sorts of PicklesAlso … Pies, Pasties, Tarts, Cheese-Cakes, Custards,Creams &c. With the art of Preserving and Candying ofFruits and Flowers; and the m aking of Conserves,Syrups, Jellies and Cordial Waters, also making severalSorts of English Wines, Cyder, Mead, Metheglin. Elaborate woodcut frontsipiece with a portrait of QueenAnne plus a full page woodcut of pies opposite p.132. 12mo., a very good, clean copy, hand-somely bound in full blue eighteenth century-style calf, spine ruled in gilt with red moroccoand gilt spine label. Small stain to the back of the frontispiece (not affecting the image), someslight browning, otherwise a very good copy. London, Printed for C. Bates and A. Bettesworth.1713. £2,800The preface declares the book to be “the most intelligible and useful book of its kind that was ever Printed”. Trueor not it was certainly a popular one, being first published in 1709 and running into a further six editions.

Not much is known about Hall who merely describes himself as a “Free” as opposed to employed cook inLondon. Whoever he was he provides some superb and historically fascinating recipes - kicking off with “Tomake a shoulder of mutton like Venison” and a French stew with Marigold-flowers.

With a contemporary ownership inscription of Elizabeth Hyne, Aug. ye 9th 1763.The second edition is extremely difficult to find. Not in any of the usual bibliographies apart from Maclean.3 copies in the UK (Cambridge, the British Library & the Wellcome Institute) and 5 in the US recorded in

WorldCat.Oxford p.52; Pennell p.145; Maclean p.65; Cagle 719 etc.

2. KETTILBY, Mary. A Collection of above Three Hundred Receiptsin Cookery, Physick and Surgery; for the use of all Good Wives, Ten-der Mothers, and Careful Nurses, by several Hands. To which isadded a Second Part, containing a great Number of Excellent Re-ceipts, for Preserving and Conserving of Sweet-Meats etc. Second edition. Two parts in one. Pp. xiv (including half-title), 176, 93.8vo., a handsome copy in contemporary panelled calf, 18th century own-ership inscriptions to title and many other pages (clearly a much lovedbook), some water-staining to the second part and a few small ink stains.London, printed for Mary Kettilby, and sold by Richard Wilkin. 1719.

£750 An important second edition having an extended second part with many new recipes.A cure for everything under the sun from headaches to cancer and numerous good recipes to savour. Kettilbyproduced the first printed recipe for bitter orange marmalade in the first edition of 1714 and it reappears here.


The contemporary ownership signature of David Reid appears throughout the book - he writes on the firstblank “David Reid aught this book. Bought at London, March 30th 1720”. His son James adds his ownership in-scription in 1733. In addition there is the booklabel of Sir James Colquhoun of Luss on the front pastedown.

Very rare.Simon BG 904; Bitting 258; Maclean p.79; Oxford p.54; Cagle 790.

First edition3. NOTT, John. The Cook’s and Confectioner’s Dictionary: or, the Accomplish’d House-

wife’s Companion. Containing, I. The choicest Receiptsin all the several Branches of Cookery; or the best andnewest Ways of dressing all sorts of Flesh, Fish, Fowl,&c.for a Common or Noble Table; with their proper Gar-nitures and Sauces. II. The best way of making Bisks,Farces, forc’d Meats, Marinades, Olio’s, Puptons, Ra-goos, Sauces, Soops, Potages, &c. according to the Eng-lish, French, and Italian Courts. III. All manner ofPastry-Works, as Biskets, Cakes, Cheese-Cakes, Cus-tards, Pastes, Patties, Puddings, Pyes, Tarts, &c. IV. Thevarious Branches of Confectionary; as Candying, Con-

serving, Preserving, and Drying all sorts of Flowers, Fruits, Roots, &c. Also Jellies, Com-posts, Marmalades, and Sugar-Works. V. The way of making all English potableLiquors; Ale, Beer, Cider, Mead, Metheglin, Mum, Perry, and all sorts of English Wines;Also Cordials, and Beautifying Waters. VI. Directions for ordering an Entertainment,or Bills of Fare for all Seasons of the Year; and setting out a Desert of Sweetmeats tothe best Advantage: With an Explanation of the Terms us’d in Carving. According tothe Practice of the most celebrated Cooks. Confectioners, &c. in the Courts of England,France. &c. and many private and accomplish’d Housewives. Revised and recom-mended by John Nott, Cook to his Grace the Duke of Bolton. First edition. Engraved frontispiece, woodcut print of a table setting. A4, B8–Z8, Aa-Rr8. (in-cluding one page of advertisement at the end). 8vo., handsomely bound by Sangorski & Sut-cliffe in twentieth century full dark brown crushed morocco, spine with raised bands andlettered in gilt, inner margin of frontispiece and title expertly repaired, browning and spottingmainly to first and last few leaves. London, C. Rivington. 1723. £1,900 Nott was cook to the Duke of Bolton and other members of the Court. He lists the recipes alphabetically underthe principal ingredients. There are thousands of recipes which cover a huge breadth, suggesting numerousmethods of preparing each ingredient from diverse places eg Chicken the Barbary way, how to make Ciderkin,Spanish Cream, 31 different ways of cooking pigeon (incuding pickling them), making French, the Earl of Arun-del’s, Covent Garden and Sack posset as well as practical joke dishes such as pies with false tops which containlive birds and frogs.

A really important and fascinating book and extremely rare in this first edition.Vicaire 631; Maclean p.107; Oxford p.56, Cagle 903. ESTC T92273

8 Sophie Schneideman Rare Books Catalogue Sixteen

First and only edition, very rare4. ANON. Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery; or, the Kitchen-Gardendisplay’d. In Two Parts. I. Shewing the best and most approvedMethods of raising and bringing to the greatest Perfection, all theProducts of the Kitchen-Garden; with a Kalendar shewing the dif-ferent Products of each Month, and the Business proper to be donein it. II. Containing a large Collection of Receipts for dressing all Sortsof Kitchen Stuff, so as to afford a great Variety of cheap, healthful,and palatable Dishes. To which is Added, the Physical Virtues of everyHerb and Root. Designed for the Use of all who would live Cheap,and preserve their Health to old Age; particularly for Farmers andTradesmen in the Country, who have but small Pieces of Gardenground, and are willing to make the most of it. First and only edition. Woodcut headpiece, tailpiece and decorated initial letters. Pp.xii, 216.12mo., bound in recemt eighteenth century style full panelled calf with red morocco and giltspine label, half title with small section torn away from outer margin, tiny closed tear on p.131,and tiny hole on leaf I9, very outer edge of first few leaves slightly damp-stained, otherwise avery good copy. London, printed for R. Dodsley in Pall-Mall and sold by M. Cooper at the Globein Paternoster Row. 1745. £2,000 A detailed and important guide to planting, growing and cooking vegetables in British Kitchen Gardens withsome excellent recipes for fruit and vegetables. But, this isn’t a vegetarian recipe book as meat gravies are in-cluded in several recipes.

With the 1761 ownership inscription of Elizabeth Wynn on half-title and one of 1774 at the rear by GwenThomas. With the booklabel of collector Mary Chadsey.

Very rare, only 3 copies have appeared in auction in over 30 years (two of which have come up twice since1999).

Simon BG 64; Bitting p.514; Cagle 541; Maclean p.3; Oxford p.74

First edition – the botanist George Claridge Druce’s copy5. HILL, John. The British Herbal: An History of Plants and Trees,Natives of Britain, Cultivated for use, or Raised for Beauty. First edition. Allegorical engraving as frontispiece by H. Roberts after S.Wale, engraved title page vignette, dedication page with arms of Earlof Northumberland and 75 plates of about 1500 botanical and herbalspecimens. Pp. iv, 536. Large folio, original marbled boards (ratherrubbed and worn but not unattractive, rebacked some time ago in quar-ter calf with red and gilt spine label seemingly from the original binding.Occasional browning and offset from plates, small closed tear to Y2,tear across final leaf repaired with tape without loss of text and chipsand tiny tears at very edges of Rrr2, 4C, 5Q2,6C, & 6Q and plate 71 notaffecting text or image. In general a good copy with nice wide margins.London, printed for T. Osborne and J. Shipton, in Gray’s Inn,.&c 1756.

£1,400


Sir John Hill (1714-1775) was from Peterborough. He was trained as an apothecary and set up a small shop inSt. Martin’s Lane. He travelled all over the country in search of rare herbs in order to write a herbal but this tooklonger than he thought. He was a prolific writer, his first publication being a translation of Theophrastus’s Historyof Stones (1746). He edited the British Magazine (1746-1750), and for two years (1751-1753) he wrote a dailyletter, The Inspector, for the London Advertiser and Literary Gazette. He also produced novels, plays and scientificworks, and was a large contributor to the supplement of Ephraim Chambers’s Cyciopaedia. His personal andscurrilous writings made him many enemies, including Henry Fielding, Christopher Smart and David Garrick, allof whom attacked him in print.

The Dictionary of National Biography attribute 76 different works to Hill but his most important are hisbotanical works. In addition Hannah Glasse’s famous manual of cookery was generally ascribed to him (seeBoswell, ed. Hill, iii. 285) as it was not readily believed that a woman could have written it. Dr Johnson said ofhim that he was an ingenious man, but had no veracity. The British Herbal, however, is a work of veracity andvitally important for modern botanical nomenclature as not only did Hill attempt to name and categorize theflowers and herbs which grow in Britain but he classifed them on the forms of the corolla and gynoecium andcriticised the Linnaean system.

This is the famous Oxford botanist George Druce’s copy who later praised Hill for his criticisms of Linnaeus.Henrey 799; Lowndes vol II, 1070.

Durham cookery book by the Dean and Chapter’s cook6. THACKER, John. The Art of Cookery containing above Six Hun-dred and Fifty of the most approv’d receipts heretofore published,under the following Heads, viz. Roasting, Boiling, Frying, Broiling,Baking, Fricasees, Puddings, Custards, Cakes, Cheese-cakes, Tarts,Pyes, Soops, Made-wines, Jellies, Candying, Pickling, Preserving,Pastry, Collering, Confectionary, Creams, Ragoos, Brasing, &c. Alsoa Bill of Fare for every Month in the Year … being a book highly nec-essary fora ll families, having the grounds of cookery fully display’dtherein. First edition. Woodcut illustrations throughout. Pp. xvi, 322 plus 34 pagesof Bills of Fare for the Residence in the College of Durham begun Sept. 29th1753 and which includes Dr. Sterne’s first Dinner for the Prebendaries atDurham and ‘A Dinner at Newcastle’. 8vo., recent quarter calf with marbledboards, red morocco and gilt spine label, small stain on spine, title withsmall repair and chipped at edges, lightly browned with occasional spotting

but otherwise a good copy. Newcastle Upon Tyne, I. Thompson & Co. 1758. £2,500 Thacker was cook to the Dean and Chapter of Durham Cathedral and he had opened a cookery school in Durhamin 1742. The recipes are separated into monthly sections and the recipes are all given French as well as Englishtitles.It is rather well written and seems to be a very personal book as he declares his preferences freely and givesproper cook’s advice as to what to watch out for and with very precise details of exactly how to cook a dish withphrases like “take care it don’t burn” for Devonshire “clouted cream” “ take the milk that is milk’d at night …ending with “lay it on your Dish, to eat with your Strawberries”. His recipe for ‘Umble pye’ would take quite someswallowing.Extremely scarce.

ESTC lists 8 copies, 5 in the UK, 1 in Poland and 2 in the US.Oxford p.88; Bitting p.458; Maclean p140; Cagle 1019.


Rare first edition in contemporary binding of one of best written cookery books

7. VERRAL, William. A Complete System of Cookery. In which is setforth, a variety of genuine Receipts, collected from several YearsExperience under the celebrated Mr. de St. Clouet, sometime sinceCook to his Grace the Duke of Newcastle … With an introductorypreface, shewing how every dish is brought to the table, in whichmanner the meanest capacity whall never err in doing what his Billof Fare contains. To which is added a true character of Mons. de St.Clouet. First edition. Pp. xxxiv, 240. 8vo., contemporary full calf, edges red, jointsrather weak, a little browning to the first and last two leaves, otherwise aremarkably fresh and handsome copy London, printed for the author, Ed-ward Verral in Lewes, and John Riverton in London. 1759. £2,750 William Verral served his apprenticeship under the well-known French chef, de St. Clouet… ”When Verral took over the White Hart in Lewes in 1737 he practiced cookery onFrench lines, as taught by St, Clouet” (Alan Davidson, Food, p. 826), hence his deference to his mentor in thiswonderfully written and highly enjoyable book.

Rare, especially in a contemporary bindingOCLC lists 13 copies, most in the US but one in Berlin and one in the Wellcome Library, COPAC lists another

2 copies int he UK at the BL and Leeds.Simon BG 1553; Vicaire 859; Oxford p.89, Bitting, p. 477; Maclean p.147 Davidson, Food, p.826; Cagle 1043

8. [GLASSE, Hannah] A LADY. The Art of Cookery, made Plain andEasy; Which far exceeds any Thing of the Kind yet published … .towhich are added, By Way of Appendix, One hundred and fifty Newand Useful Receipts, and a Copious Index. Seventh edition, facsimile signature of Hannah Glasse on p.1. Pp. [ii], xxx,408 (including index). 8vo., contemporary full calf, a bit rubbed and wornat extremities with a weak upper headcap, occasional light browninground edges but generally very good. London, A. Millar, J. & R. Tonson, W.Strahan, P. Davey and B. Law. 1760. £850 Hannah Glasse’s great and important work was originally published in 1747. This ex-panded seventh edition was published in her lifetime, she died in 1770.

10 copies listed in ESTC, 2 in the UK, 1 in Germany and the rest in the North America.Maclean, p.59. Oxford, p.77, Cagle 700.

9. MRS. GLASSE. The Art of Cookery, made Plain and Easy; Which far exceeds anyThing of the Kind yet published … to which are added, By Way of Appendix, One hun-dred and fifty New and Useful Receipts, and also fifty receipts for different Articlesof Perfumery. New expanded edition, “with all the modern improvements: And also the Order of a Bill ofFare for each Month, in the Manner the Dishes are to be placed upon the Table, in the present


Taste”. Large folding Bill of Fare. Pp. [ii], xxii, 410, 26 (index). 8vo., con-temporary full calf, rebacked and corners repaired very skilfully in the samestyle preserving the original endpapers, red morocco and gilt spine labelwith compartments ruled in gilt, occasional light browning round edgesbut generally a very good, handsome copy. London, W.Strahan, J. Riving-ton & Sons, L.Davis, W.Owen &c. 1784. £550 With the facsimile signature of Glasse on the first page of the text.

Hannah Glasse’s great and important work was originally published in 1747. It wasincredibly popular and went into numerous editions - this expanded new edition beingpublished 14 years after her death in 1770.

13 copies listed in ESTC, 5 in the UK in 3 locations, 1 in Australia and the rest in theNorth America.

Simon BG, 768; Maclean, p.60; Oxford, p.77; Vicaire 414; Cagle 704.

10. MOXON, Elizabeth, and others. English Housewifery, Exem-plified in Above Three Hundred and Twenty Receipts, giving direc-tions in most part of Cookery. Together with: English Housewiferyimproved; or, a Supplement to Moxon’s Cookery. Containing up-wards of Sixty Modern and Valuable Receipts in Pastry, Preserving,Made Dishes, Made Wines, &c. Collected by a Person of Judgment,with Corrections and Additions.Fifteenth edition (styled thirteenth edition on the title), corrected andFifth edition of the Supplement. Folding table to show when fish are inseason, 2 folding diagrams of Winter & Summer Bill of Fare plus 5 dia-grams in text. Pp. viii, 5-203 (complete thus); Supplement Pp. 33; Bills offare pp.13 & 8pp. index. 8vo., original mottled calf handsomely rebackedin calf with gilt bands and maroon and gilt spine label, original endpapers

preserved. In general a very good copy. London, W. Osborne, T. Griffin & H. Mozley, Gainsbro’.1789. £280 Moxon’s work first appeared in 1741 in one part. A second part was first added as a supplement to the seventhedition in 1758. We know that Moxon lived around Pontefract and, as all the early editions of this work wereprinted in Leeds, this is one of the first cookery books to travel from the provinces to the capital rather than theother way round.

The supplement is very interesting as the authors are “several Gentlewomen in the Neighbourhood”. PerhapsMoxon had died by this time (we don’t know her dates) or she had lost control of her work by 1758 when thesupplement first appeared.

Moxon’s work is good, thorough and totally unpretentious. It proved to be extremely popular and wasreprinted many times right into the nineteenth century.

Maclean, p.105; Oxford, note on p.78; Pennell p. 160; Cagle 891

Extremely scarce first edition, rare in any edition11. PRICE, Mrs. Elizabeth The New Universal and Complete Confectioner, or the WholeArt of Confectionary Made Perfectly Plain and Easy. Containing full accounts of allthe various methods of perserving and candying, both dry and liquid, fruit, flowers,garden stuff, herbs &c. Also the several ways of clarifying sugar; and the best methods


of keeping fruit, nuts and flowers, fresh and fine all the year round: to-gether with directions for making blomonge, biscuits, cakes, rock-works, candies, tarts, possets, custards, jellies, creams, ices, whipsyllabubs, cheesecakes, sweetmeats, puffs & pastes, oils &c &c. Includ-ing modern and original receipts for making lemonade, orgeat, or-angeade, waters and other refreshments. First edition. Pp. 94. 12mo., bound in a superb pastiche binding of moroccobacked marbled paper covered boards. Lacking frontispiece and pp.91–4, p13misbound, the title page and final leaf of advertisments are very chipped withvery slight loss of text at the bottom, first few leaves chipped at corners withno loss of text. London, Printed for Alex Hogg, No.16 Paternoster Row, by S.Couchman Throgmorton St.[c.1790] £850 The title page states that Mrs. Elizabeth Price of Berkeley Square was also the author of theNew Book of Cookery. Her facsimile signature appears beneath the preface.

Extremely rare.One copy recorded in the National Library of Scotland and 1 in the Library of CongressMaclean p.118 (who gives date as 1760 but the Hogg & Couchman were only in these premises between 1790

and 1804). Bitting p.382; Oxford p.110; Cagle 938.

Nineteenth Century

Alan Davidson’s copy of the scarce first edition12. IGNOTUS. [HUNTER, Dr. Alexander]. Culina Famulatrix Medicinae: Or Receipts inModern Cookery; with a Medical Commentary, Written by Ignotus. First edition. Frontispiece of a pig. Pp.235. 12mo., contemporary green half morcoo, spine gilt,corners and hinges a little worn and rubbed with some foxing as well as offset from the fron-tispiece. York, 1804. £550 Title with contemporary ownership inscriptions to first blank and to head of title and a later ink authorship at-tribution. With the booklabel of Alan Davidson (for notes on Alan Davidson see above). A highly opiniated book and a marvellous read. Each recipe is followed by ‘Ignotus’s’ or rather ‘Hunter’s’ obser-vations on it, often including the effect on the body.

Of Mock Turtle Soup he writes “This is a most diabolical dish, and only fit for the Sunday dinner of a rustic,who is to work the six following days in a ditch bottom. It is the very essence of Pandora’s box. So, – Get theebehind me Satan!”.

The appendix gives 267 pieces of advice on Men and Manners. All pithy and often witty, one declares “Neverenter an auction room, for there you will tempted to buy what you do not want”, another “Do not blame a manfor hard drinking, if he belongs to a thirsty family”.

12 copies in the US and 2 in the UK listed in WorldCat. Only 2 copies recorded in auction records for over 30years.

Bitting p.238, Cagle 769, Oxford p.133


13. FARLEY, John. The London Art of Cookery, and House-keeper’s Complete Assistant. On a New Plan. Made plain andeasy to the understanding of every housekeeper, cook, and ser-vant in the Kingdom. Tenth edition. Engraved portrait frontispiece, 12 engraved Bills of Farefor each month of the year. Pp. xxiv, 366 plus 18 pages of publishers’advertisements. 8vo., a good looking copy in recent full brown mo-rocco, gilt lettering on spine, the frontispiece has obviously comeloose at some point and suffered some damage and loss, not affect-ing the image or text, and has been reattached by tipping onto thetitle, occasional very light browning and a crease to one page, other-wise a very good copy. London, Scatcherd & Letterman. 1804.

£400 Farley was ‘principal cook at the London Tavern’ and first published his London Artof Cookery in 1783. It was an immediate hit and had run into nine editions by theend of the century – here we have the t1804 printing of the tenth and first nine-teenth century edition. Farley made the London Tavern a remarkably popular place

to eat with his status as a ‘celebrity cook’. It was renowned for its good food and generous portions.This edition of 1804 listed in Bitting 152; Cagle 679 records a 10th edition of 1801,although Oxford lists the 10th

edition as being 1804 as here.

One of only two known copies, this the only one in the original wrappers14. The Lincolnshire Family Jewel; or, the Art of Cookery madePlain and Easy. Pp. 34. Sm. 8vo., in the original printed wrappers, the title being en-closed in an elaborate printer’s border, some wear and old verticalsticky tape marks down each side of the front wrapper but in remark-ably good condition. Lincoln, sold by John Drury, near the Stone-Bow.1808. £1,250Begins with cookery technique including roasting, boiling, broiling and frying. Thisis followed by baking and recipes for pastry including several pie shells and crustsand various bread and muffin recipes. At the end are recipes for wine and beer aswell as household recipes for pain, lips, hair &c. A superb provincial publication.

Ownership inscription of R. Daniell on the front wrapper,Extremely rare, the only other copy located is in the British Library but it is

without wrappers and bound up with a group of other cookery items.Not in any of the bibliographies.

First printed recipe for English Twelfth Cake15. MOLLARD, John. The Art of Cookery made Easy and Refined; comprising ampledirections for preparing every article requisite for furnishing the tables of the noble-man, gentleman and tradesman. Fourth edition. 12 engraved plates showing bill of fare for each month. Pp. xxiv, 211. 8vo., ahandsome copy in nineteenth century half calf with mottled marbled paper covered boards,


rebacked carefully with original spine laid down, preserving orig-inal endpapers, very mild browning to the engraved dedicationleaf, otherwise very good. London, printed for J. Nunn … Long-man, Hurst, Rees & Orme, Richardsons and J. Ridgway. 1808

£750 With the booklabel of Thomas Buchanan Esq. of Powis with ownership in-scription of Mrs. Buchanan on the title.

John Mollard was the chef at the London Tavern in Bishopsgate Streetand he dedicates the book to its owner, Lawrence Laforest.

The first edition of Mollard’s book appeared in 1801 and went into 5editions by 1836. The third edition and this one a year later include the firstprinted recipe for English Twelfth Cake, a key feature at this time in the cel-ebration of Epiphany. Other very interesting recipes include ‘Peloe rice”, sev-eral curries, Hyde Park Corner Cakes, a good section on fish sauces, how tomake haggis, how to dry wild mushrooms, turkey with truffles, calves earswith parmesan cheese, Spanish olios &c.

Very rare. Only 5 copies recorded in the World Catalogue of Libraries, 2 in London at the Warburgh Instituteand somewhere in the Corporation of London Libraries, 1 in Berlin and 2 in the US in New York and Indiana Uni-versity.

This edition only recorded by Bitting p.328 & Cagle 882. ; Simon BG 1065 and 1066 mentions the 1st and 3rd edi-tions; Oxford the 3rd edition of 1807 and Vicaire only the first.

Rare early edition16. A LADY. [MRS. RUNDELL]. A New System of Domestic Cookery;formed upon Principles of Economy. And adapted to the Use of Pri-vate Families. New corrected edition. Engraved frontispiece and 9 engraved plates. Pp.[22] (contents), xxx, 352. 8vo., contemporary full vellum with black mo-rocco and gilt spine label, rebacked with original spine laid down, preserv-ing the original endpapers, some browning and with some chipping tothe edges of the leaves, ink stain on foreedge (not affecting text), gener-ally a good looking copy. London, John Murray. 1808. £850 A really good and scarce early edition of this book which was a popular mainstay ofhousehold cookery on both sides of the Atlantic and was continually reprinted into in1870s.

Cagle 971 records the third edition, published in 1807, the year before this ‘Newedition’ but no edition earlier this is recorded although it is believed that it was firstpublished in 1805.

Mrs Rundell sent the manuscript of her cookery book to her old family friend JohnMurray who published it and the book achieved considerable success.Murray sold 5 to10,000 copies annually and it became one of his most valuable properties. When hebought the lease of the house still owned by the Murrays in Albermarle St., the copyrightof Domestic Cookery was part of the surety.

Despite the riches accruing to Murray, Mrs. Rundell did not want any renumerationfor it.

Perhaps Murray got greedy and complacent because in 1814 Rundell accused Murray of neglecting the book


and hindering its sale and stopped him reprinting it – instead putting an improved version of it with Longmansin 1821. By 1841 it had gone into 65 editions.

With the morocco and gilt booklabel of Sophia Walker on the front pastedown.No copies of this 1808 edition are recorded in WorldCat and only 2 copies in COPAC, one in the Bodleian

and one in the John Murray archive.Early editions of Rundell are extremely rare. Simon BG 1319 ff. only mentions editions after 1809; Oxford p.137

notes this ‘new edition’ but with a date of 1807; Vicaire 812 refers to a new edition of 1807 and a third edition of 1808.This is further confused by Cagle who dates the third edition as 1807. The bottom line is that no edition earlier than1807 has been seen by him.

A year in the kitchen cooking for aristocrats and royalty during the Regency17. SIMPSON, John. A Complete System of Cookery ona plan entirely new; consisting of an extensive and orig-inal collection of receipts in cookery, confectionary, etc.with Bills of Fare for every day in the year; the whole asactually dressed and served up, during five years’ resi-dence, at the Marquis of Buckingham’s; including sev-eral entertainments given to His Royal Highness thePrince of Wales, and other Royal Personages. To whichare now added, tables of articles in season, and themode of dressing turtle (never before given in any workof the kind), bills of fare for deserts, and a series of re-ceipts and bills of fare of economical dishes, to suit themost private families. New expanded edition (the first appeared in 1806). Pp. {2],vi, 568. 8vo., recent old-style full polished calf with red mo-

rocco and gilt spine label and borders in blind and gilt on both covers, new endpapers. Generallya very good copy with slight chipping at the very edges of a few leaves, none affecting text.London, for W. Steward &c. 1816. £450 Fascinating insight into the kitchens of aristocracy during the Regency. Every dish served in the year is listed anddirections for their cooking given making replication possible. Luckily we now have Gaviscon.

The turtle recipes, which Simpson claims to be the first in such a cookery book include roasted turtle, turtlebraised white to look like chicken (?), white and Scotch collops of turtle and soutie, liver and tripe of turtle withonion sauce.

Oxford mentions only an undated edition of 1816 not a dated one as does Bitting p.436; Simon BG 1387; Cagle 992.

Rare early nineteenth century Derbyshire cookery book18. [MOZLEY]. A LADY. The Modern Cookery, written upon the most approved andeconomic principles, and in which, every receipt has stood the test of experience. First edition. Frontispiece, title page vignette, 6 plates of place settings. Pp. [3] 14–171 [9 (tableof when different fish are in season, index]. 12mo., expertly rebound by Powley of Norwich indrab paper backed boards with printed paper spine label. Derby, printed for Henry Mozley,1818. £550

Pagination in error but this is complete.


Early ownership signature of Ann Heyes on the title and AnnBirkett (presumably her married name) on the first blank.

The book covers real hearty British fare – meat, fish, hashes, fric-asses, ragouts, potted meat and fish, collaring, puddings, pies, andcakes and preserving.

Extremely rare. This edition unrecorded except in Cagle 877/ Oxford, p.149 records

the 2nd edition of 1820, Axford, p.274 & Bitting p.579 the 8th edition& Simon BG 1060 the tenth, 1856.

World Cat lists only 3 copies in the US in Michigan, Lamar and Indi-ana Universities and COPAC adds only one more copy in the BrothertonLibrary in Leeds, with the same pagination as here.

Extremely rare provincial cookery book by a confectioner andcookery teacher from Sheffield

19. HAZLEHURST, Priscilla. The Family Friend, and YoungWoman’s Companion; or Housekeeper’s Instructor: containinga very complete colletion of original and approved Receipts, inevery branch of Cookery, Confectionary &c &c Frontispiece with several carving figures plus a second engraved plateof carving. Seventh edition. Pp.215. 8vo., original full calf, skilfully re-backed in the same style with morocco and gilt spine label, generallya very good copy. Albion Office: printed and sold by C.& W. Thompson,Westbar & Cornmarket, Sheffield. [c.1818] £850 Booklabel of Josiah Coop on the front pastedown.

A posthumous edition of Hazlehurst and a very important provincial cookerybook. Hazlehurst was a confectioner and teacher of cookery in Sheffield who hadbeen housekeeper for around 12 years in good families such as Bethell in Beverley& Joddrell near Manchester. Her book was first published in 1802.

Extremely rare. WorldCat only lists one copy of this seventh edition in the BritishLibrary and then no other editions apart from the 1st, 2nd and 3rd.

Oxford cites this 7th undated edition; Bitting p.218 only mentions the first edition; Cagle 728–730 onlyrecords the 1st to 3rd editions and fails to locate any others.

First edition20. [BRILLAT SAVARIN]. UN PROFESSEUR. Physiologie du Gout, ou Medita-tions de Gastronomie Transcendant; ouvrage theorique, histoirque et a l’orderdu jour. First edition, the rare first issue with the E in Bourse on the title page at 90 degreeangle.. 2 volumes. Pp. [2], [i–vii], viii–xiv [5] 6–390; [1–5], 442. 8vo., handsomely boundin black morocco backed marbled boards, spine ruled in gilt with dots and lines, withelaborate border at base, marbled endpapers, rubbed at extremities, occasional verylight spotting, otherwise a very good copy. Paris, A. Sautelet et Cie. 1826. £4,600 A handsome copy of the first edition of a French classic. Its combination of wit, philosophy, science,anecdotes, culinary chemistry, aphorism, physiology &c was a winning formula and led to demands for


its continual reprinting and eventual translation.The first edition was printed in only 500 copies, “edition originale rare et très recherchée” (Oberlé), and this

first issue is extremely scarce.Oberlé 1544, Vicaire 116–7, Cagle 98.

21. KITCHENER, William. The Cook’s Oracle; and Housekeeper’sManual. US edition taken from the latest London edition. 8vo., original grained leather,gilt lettering on spine, joints split rather rubbed and worn, rather brownedwith the occasional small tear not affecting the text but still intact. New York,J.& J. Harper. 1830. £100 The first edition appeared in 1817 under the name ‘Apicius Redivivus’, it was reprinted severaltimes in both England and the US.

Bitting p. 262

Extremely scarce book, only 3 recorded copies. In the originalprinted cloth.

22. [MOZLEY]. Modern Confectionary; containing receipts for dryingand candying, comfits, cakes, preseves, liqueurs, ices, jellies, creams,sponges, pastes, potted meats, pickles, wines, etc.etc.etc. By the authorof “The Modern Cookery”. Second edition. Pp. 232. Sm. 8vo., original printed cloth, neatly rebacked withoriginal spine laid down, cloth rather browned but extremely scarce in this orig-inal binding. Derby, printed by and for Henry Mozley and Sons. 1833. £500 Ownership inscription of Edith Ellis, The Elms, Chudleigh.

The first edition appeared in 1826, also published by Mozley in Derby. Axford and Bittingattribute this to Eliza Acton because of the statement that the book is by the author of TheModern Cookery but as Acton’s book by this title was not published until 1845, this refers to

Mozley’s publication of 1818 (see item 18 above).Extremely rare, only 3 copies listed in WorldCat in the BL, Wellcome Library & Harvard. Only one copy of the

only other edition, the first, in Indiana University.Cagle 876 mentions the first edition only. Bitting p.2, first edition only, misattributed to Acton. Not in any other

bibliographies.

Rare imprint23. A LADY. [COPLEY, Esther Hewlett]. The Cook’s Complete Guide,on the Principles of Frugality, Comfort, and Elegance: including theArt of Carving, and the most approved method of setting-out a table,explained by numerous copper-plate engravings. Instructions forpreserving health, and attaining old age, with directions for breedingand fattening all sorts of poultry, and for the management of bees,rabbits, pigs &c&c. Rules for cultivating a garden, and numerous use-ful miscellaneous receipts. First edition, later printing with the Tallis & Co. imprint on the title page.


Frontispiece, engraved title page and 10 other copper-engravings, all rather spotted andbrowned. Pp. vi, 838, 8vo., contemporary black calf decorated in blind round the edges of thecovers and with a circular decoration in gilt on the spine, joints splitting and bit worn at ex-tremities, but still strong, some browning but a good copy. London, Tallis & Co, sold by G.Virtue. c.1836 £400 This edition originally published c.1827 with the G. Virtue imprint.

It is an excellent and thorough work covering every aspect of domestic economy with hundreds of recipesas well as how to look after the cellar, dairy, poultry yard and “laboratory”. A real handbook for the mistress ofthe house.

Cagle 633 points to the rarity of this imprint “No other copy with this imprint located” “This printing unrecorded inthe bibliographies”.

In fact World Cat records 6 copies in the US, and there is one listed at Leeds in the UK, although it is incorrectly datedas 1827.

24. JARRIN, W.A. Italian Confectioner; or, Complete Economy ofDesserts, according to the most modern and approved practice. New edition, revised and enlarged. Portrait frontispiece, 2 folding plates,6 full page plates of bills of fare followed by 599 recipes. 8vo., originalcloth backed boards with original printed paper spine label, some rubbingand marking to boards but a good copy. London, E.S. Ebers. 1844.

£350 Contemporary ownership inscription of one Elizabeth Scott.

The book was first published in 1820. In this new edition, Jarrin’s name appears asW.A. instead of G.A. for the first time, his original first name ‘Guillermo’ having beenanglicized to ‘William’.

Simon BG 884;Bitting p.244 and Pxford p.149 describe the third 1827 ediiton; Cag;e777 describes the 1829 fourth edition.

Chelmsford printing of a Lincolnshire cook book25. CAREFUL, Martha. Household Hints to Young Housewives,with the arrangements and receipts for forty dinners. Second edition. Pp.[2], vi, 126 plus 10 pps. of Opinions of the Press. 12mo.,attractively bound in recent black cloth backed grey boards with printedpaper label on upper cover. Darkening to a few pages but generally a verygood copy. London, Dean and Son, printed in Chelmsford by Meggy &Chalk. 1852. £250 The introduction, written from Oldenham Hall in Lincolnshire, states that the MarthaCareful (clearly a pseudonym) is a widow who is always being pressed to produce guidesfor new housewives. She writes: “I have consented, if my rheumatism do not interrupt,to arrange a few pages on my own simple plan, and which I heartily recommend to allthe young brides of the nation, that each may secure love and harmony in her home”.She gives directions, in the form of letters to a Mrs Johnson, as to how to run an entirehousehold for each day of the week and then follows this with 80 pages of recipes. Avery readable book which gives a good view of daily life in a normal fairly well to dohousehold.


Extremely scarce, especially in this early edition.WorldCat records only one copy of this edition in the Library of Congress and one copy of the first edition

of 1851 in the National Library of ScotlandOnly this edition is listed anywhere and only in Bitting p. 74. Not in any other bibliographies, even Attar’s bibliography

of Household Books.

The comparative merits of male and female cooks26. [HAYWARD, ABRAHAM]. The Art of Dining. First edition. Pp. vi, 138. 8vo., a very attractive copy in 20th century boardswith printed paper label on spine. Mark on upper cover, otherwise good.London, John Murray. 1852. £200 Some ponderings on the history of cookery, restaurants, celebrated cooks with severalbiographies, instructions how to choose a Cook, the life of Brillat-Savarin, a list of foreigndelicacies, accounts of famous dinners, directions for simple dining, thoughts on roastpig, speculations touching Pies and Puddings &c.

Perhaps most contentious is the article on the comparative merits of male and fe-male cooks.

At the end is an appendix with several recipes and bills of fare.13 copies are listed on WorldCat, 2 in Australia, 3 in the UK, 6 in the USA and 1

each in Denmark and Germany.Simon BG 824; Not in Bitting or Cagle which mentions the second edition of 1853.

In the original ‘Murray’s Railway Reading’ wrappers27. [HAYWARD, ABRAHAM]. The Art of Dining. First edition. Pp. vi, 138. 8vo., in the original ‘Murray’s Railway Reading’printed wrappers, Upper wrapper loose and spine rather chipped, owner-ship inscription on first blank. London, John Murray. 1852. £280 (See note above)

28. ACTON, Eliza. Modern Cookery in all its branches reduced to asystem of easy practice for the use of private families in a series ofreceipts, which have been strictly tested, and are given with themost minute exactness. Illustrated with 8 plates of engravings on steel and numerous woodcuts.Fourteenth edition to which are added directions for carving. Pp. xlviii,584 plus 584a-h (appendix), 585–608 (index) plus 4pp. adverts and 24publisher’s catalogue. 8vo., original brown cloth decorated on the coversin blind and with elaborate gilt deocration on the spine with images ofdead game, pig’s head and fish, headcaps chipped with rubbing at extrem-ities, frontispiece starting, a bit shaken, otherwise a good, attractive copy.London, Longman, Brown, Green & Longmans. 1854. £150 With a contemporary ownership inscription on the title of H. Nunes.

Eliza Acton (1799–1859) was the Delia Smith of her time. Her recipes were triedand tested and beautifully laid out with, what Elizabeth David called “ a singularity of


purpose”. All the amateur cook had to do was follow them exactly to guarantee results. William Hazlitt praisedher work from his lofty heights: “I have heard this little volume highly commended by competent judges as ex-actly what it professes to be; and the quantities in the receipts are particularly reliable”.

Her work was highly influential and became a bestseller with weeks of its first appearance in 1845, runninginto numerous editions in the following years.

29. WALSH, J.H. The English Cookery Book: uniting A Good Stylewith Economy, and adapted to all persons in every clime; contain-ing any unpublished receipts in daily use by Private Familes. Col-lected by a Committee of Ladies and edited by J.H. Walsh, F.R.C.S.,author of ‘A Manual of Domestic Economy’. Second edition, the first appeared the year before. Frontispiece and 7 en-graved plates of cooking ranges, utensils, trussing and carving. Pp, viii, 375,8vo., original red morocco backed green cloth with elaborate gilt decora-tion on upper cover and spine. Imperceptible repair to top edge of spinewhich has some rubbing, also slight bumps to corners, otherwise a verygood copy with a contemporary ownership inscription on London, G.Routledge & Co. 1859. £325 The book begins with kitchen management including an essay on necessary utensils and the amount peopleshould eat. This is followed by various important cookery techniques and recipes.. In all there are 1313 numberedhints and recipes followed by several recommended Bills of Fare.

Only 7 copies recorded in Cambridge, National Library of Scotland, the Wellcome Library, 1 in Canada and3 in the US (Harvard and two in NY).

Cagle 1045,Simon BG 1595 , unrecorded in any other bibliographies.

In the original boards30. TICKLETOOTH, Tabitha. [SELBY, Charles]. The Dinner Ques-tion: or, How to Dine Well and Economically. Combining the rudi-ments of Cookery with useful hints on dinner giving and serving,and other household words of advice: garnished with anecdotesof eminent cooks and epicures as well as wise saws in gastron-omy from the great masters. First edition. 8vo., original pictorial paper covered boards, rebacked withnew endpapers. Some light browning with rubbing and bumping tothe covers, but a rare survivial with the original boards. London, Rout-ledge, Warne, and Routledge. 1860. £500 ‘Tickletooth’s’ focus is on “Plain instructions for the preparation of Plain dishes atthe least possible expense”. She writes that Soyer came closest to providing this inhis Shilling Cookery for the Million but that he was too French and it was inappropriatefor “many who have a natural love of simple and succulent English good cheer”.

The book covers many aspects of domestic life from furnishings, care of the teeth, kitchen utensils, the phi-losophy of cooking followed by many good sound British recipes, plenty being ‘à la Tickletooth’.

Also included are detailed reviews of various places to dine out in London and the ‘suburbs’ in Victorian times.Simon BG 1463; Not in Cagle; Bitting 461 mentions only the 2nd edition



4 works in one, with one unrecorded in WorldCat or the bibliographies31. AUDOT, [Louis Eustache] LaCuisinière de la Campagne et de laVille, ou Nouvelle CuisineÉconomique, contenant indicationdes jours maigres. Table des metsselon l’order du service. Ustensiles, in-struments et procedes nouveaux …Service de la table par les domestiques… Cuisines Française, Anglaise, Alle-mande, Flamande, Polonaise, Russe,Espagnole, Provençale, Languedoci-enne, Italienne et Gothique, au nom-bre de 1500 recettes, d’une exécutionsimple et facile. Divers moyens et re-cettes d’économie domestique, de

conservation des viandes, poissons, legumes, fruits, oeufs, etc … Article détaillé surla Pâtisserie, … Moyen facile de faire les glaces. Des caves, des vins … &c.45th edition with 300 illustrations in the text, handcoloured frontispiece. Pp. 667, {3}, pp.36(supplement– first edition of 1852): plus 16pp. publisher’s ads. Paris, Audot. 1866.BOUND TOGETHER WITH: Almanach des Ménagères et des Gastronomes pour 1854,1855 & 1856. Pp.120; 72; 80. Paris, Audot. 1854–1856. First editions. All bound in half calf with marbled boards, spine with red and gilt spine label, bit worn at ex-tremities, upper joint splitting but generally good copies. £650 A lifetime ediiton of one of France’s most popular 19th century cookbooks written by Louis Eustache Audot(1783–1870). The first edition was published in 1818 and it was reprinted many times. The supplement wasfirst published in 1852.

The Almanachs are rather obscure and scarce and are complete as only 3 years were published. Cagle onlyrecords the first and mentions the other two so the whole makes a fascinating sammelband.

4 copies of the 1854 Almanach are listed in the US (Indiana& California) & 1 copy in Basel.No copies of the 1855 Almanach are recorded in World Cat or in the bibliographies.1 copy of the 1856 Almanach is listed in BaselCuisinière & Supplement: Bitting 20; Cagle 52–56; Vicaire 54–55. Almanachs: Cagle 51

(year 1854); Bitting p.20 (only 1854 & 1856); Vicaire 17 (only 1854 – wrongly listed as 1853).

Scottish Cookery32. WILLIAMSON, D. The Practice of Cookery and Pastry adaptedto the business of every-day life. Tenth edition, greatly enlarged and improved. Pp. xvi, 359. 8vo., originalgreen cloth with decorated title in gilt on upper cover with a rolled borderin blind on both covers. Edinburgh,Thomas & Archibald Constable. 1871.

£110

Williamson ran a catering business and cookery school at No.16 Dundas Street in Edinburgh. His book was ex-tremely popular and ran in many editions, being prized for his comprehensiveness and clear directions. It seemsto be variously attributed from the 1850s onwards in different editions to D, Mrs I and G. Williamson

The book has a Scottish bent with wonderful recipes for tablet, Scotch marmalade, Finnan haddock,Hotch=Potch, game birds, ‘Craigie toast’, oatmeal puddings &c.

Driver p.656. Not in Cagle or Bitting

Kept in Lady Hawkesbury’s bedroom33. GOUFFÉ, Jules. The Book of Conserves (Le Livre de Con-serves) containing instructions for preserving meat, fish, veg-etables, and fruit and for the preparation of terrines, glantines,liqueurs, syrups, petits-fours &c. Translated from the French by Alphonse Gouffé, Head Pastrycook toHer Majesty the Queen. First English edition. Portrait frontispiece and34 woodcuts. Pp. viii, 336. Tall 8vo., in the original green russiabacked maroon cloth sides, spine lettered and decorated in gilt, ratherrubbed on spine, corners slightly bumped. London, Sampson Low, Son & Marston. 1871.

£450 First edition in English of this great work by Jules Gouffé who was the famous chef of the Paris Jockey Club andalso wrote The Royal Cookery Book as translated by his son Alphonse the pastry chef to Queen Victoria. The bookwas originally published in France in 1869.

This copy has a good provenance – written on the front free endpaper in pencil is“Lady Hawkesbury’s bedroom. No.3 Bookcase bottom shelf 5” and beneath it the own-ership inscription of her husband Cecil Foljambe, the Liberal politician the first Earl ofLiverpool (1846–1907) known as Lord Hawkesbury.

Bitting p.195; Axford p.39; Cagle 713

Indian cookery and colonial life34.JAMES, Mrs. Eliot. Indian Household Management containinghints on Outfits, Packing, Bungalows, Furnishing, Servants etc. etc. Pp. vii, 8–90 plus 6 pp. of adverts. 7 x 5 inches. original pictorial wrappers,small bit of back strip lost at base of spine and front cover slightly detachedat the base of the spine but generally very good. From Sylvia’s Home HelpSeries. London, Ward Lock & Co. [1879]. £350 The book is a fascinating insight into the life of Colonial India. Mrs James includes chap-ters on Station Life, Stable Management, how to pack and the voyage to India, what towear, necessary furniture as well as a chapter of Indian recipes and two on domesticeconomy.

Very scarce. Only 4 copies listed in WorldCat, all in the UK.Attar 156.1

35. [PUNCH]. KEENE, Charles. Robert; or, Notes from the Diary ofa City Waiter. Illustrated throughout by Charles Keene. First and second series issued inone. Pp. vi, 122; viii, 144. 8vo., original green pictorial cloth with lettering


in red, black and gilt and an image of a waiter in black and white on the upper cover, headcapsslightly rubbed and corners bumped, a few small marks, otherwise a very good, bright copy.London, Bradbury, Agnew & Co. 1885. £80 With a binding ticket of Leighton Son & Hodge and two small booksellers’ labels of Gilbert & Field in MoorgateSt. London and Cooks Books.

With a chapter on curries36. KENNEY-HERBERT, Col. “WYVERN”. Common-Sense Cookeryfor English Households based upon Modern English and Continen-tal Principles with Twenty Menus for Little Dinners worked out indetail. First edition. Pp. viii, 504 plus 32 pages of publisher’s ads. 8vo., originalgreen pictorial cloth. Bit rubbed at extremities, foxing to first and last cou-ple of leaves, otherwise good. London, Edward Arnold. [1894]. £125 Includes a whole chapter on Curries. These are proper recipes requiring proper ingredi-ents including ginger, turmeric, butter, small red onions, cocoanut (sic) the quantitityof which depends on the origin of the curry (Ceylon or Malay curries “require a greatdeal of nutty milk”). He recommends using French earthenware to cook curries and thengoes on to describe in detail how to make paste and many different types of curry etc.A really good book.

Jewish Cookery37. ATRUTEL, Estella. An Easy and Economical Book of JewishCookery, Upon Strictly Orthodox Principles. Third edition, with the 20 page appendix. Pp.viii, 208 plus 6pp. of adver-tisements (e.g. for kosher butchers, poulterers, Barmitzvah present sup-pliers &c) on endpapers. 8vo., original blue cloth, gilt lettering on uppercover, a used copy with chipped headcaps, some rubbing and stains tocovers, a little shaken, but otherwise in good order. London, P. Vallentine.1894. £850 Mrs. Atrutel sets out her agenda in her opening sentence “Good Stock and Good Saucesare the foundation of Good Cookery” giving numerous recipes for different saucesamong her 550 recipes which include some excellent suggestions for fish, deliciouscakes and puddings as well as some good bills of fare for large dinners. She gives detaileddirections for Passover cookery, the food necessary for the nine days previous to the

fast of Ab and adds a few observations for the young reader on religious observances necessary in the kitchen,referring particularly to the washing of poultry.

First published in 1874 and then again in 1880 the book is dedicated to the Baroness Lionel de Rothschildto whom Mrs. Atrutel boasts of the diversity of Jewish cookery writing that it is “not confined to the old Englishof roast, boiled, or grilled, but largely partakes of the more savoury dishes of France, Italy, and Germany.”

Extremely scarce in any edition. No edition in any of the bibliographies. Only one copy of this edition in OCLCin the New York Public Library (listed are four copies of the 1880 edition and only one of the 1874 edition). Notin COPAC, which has only one copy of each of the other two editions at the Wellcome and Cambridge UniversityLibraries.


Scarce early book of Indian cookery in Britain,38. [HERVEY, Henrietta] The Wife of a Retired Indian Army Offi-cer. Anglo-Indian Cookery at Home. A Short Treatise for ReturnedExiles. Pp.iv, 43 plus 40 pp. of publisher’s adverstisements. 7 x 5 inches, originalgreen cloth with gilt lettered title on upper cover, some bubbling to thecloth and a few small scuff marks and fading, browning to endpapers butgenerally a good copy. London, Horace Cox. 1895. £350 A fantastic book showing how to cook Indian food at home in Britain for those whohave become used to more adventurous Indian style cookery. The recipes include nu-merous curries, many different ways of cooking rice including Mutton “Pullow” Rice and“Kitcherry” Rice, savoury dishes including “Dhobie, Inidan Ramakin Toast, Brinjal Cutlets,Goanese Tasta, numerous chutnies and pickles including Lucknow and Bengal, soupsand puddings including “Dola Dola” made with rice pouder, almonds, coconuts and but-ter. The recipe for Mango Fool states “The green fruit, I believe, is procurable at Whiteley’s”.Rare, only 8 copies recorded in WorldCat, 4 in the UK, 2 in the US including the Pennell collection at the Libraryof Congress, 1 in Canada and 1 in Japan.

Not in Cagle, Bitting or any of the usual bibliographies.

Twentieth century, including books from thelibrary of Derek Cooper and books and artwork

from the collection of Alan Davidson

39. BUTTERICK PUBLISHING. The Correct Art of Candy-Making Pp. 72. 27 illustrations. Large 8vo., original printed wrappers with pub-lisher’s adverts, rather worn and chipped at extremities but still intact. Lon-don, Paris, New York: Butterick Publishing Co. c.1902. £45 A rather professional approach to candy-making in the home including instructionsfor flavoured sugars, taffies, cream candies, jujubes, candies made with nuts,caramels, kisses, marshmallows, macaroons, nougat, bonbons, pralines, sugared al-monds, drops, comfits, rosolios, lozenges, candied fruits etc. Simple instructions con-sidering.

40. SIMMONS, Owen. The Book of Bread. 12 chromolithograph plates, 8 tipped-in photographic plates, 2 tipped-inoriginal silver gelatin photographic prints (one with a vertical crease at in-side edge), 6 further images within the text. First edition. Pp. 336. 4to., original green cloth,front board and spine with a horizontal black roll border and black and gilt lettering, some soil-ing and scuffing to the cloth with fading of the gilt lettering and a little bumping to the ex-tremities, however a good, strong copy and clean internally. Maclaren & Sons, [1903]. £900 An extraordinary, obsessive monograph on bread, and a masterpiece of unintentional photographic art asSimmons, a lecturer at the National Bakery School in London, commissioned the full-sized black-and-white


photographs of different types of bread that appeared in his work. He writes: “however critical readers may be,they will be forced to admit that never before have they seen such a complete collection of prize loaves illus-trated in such an excellent manner.”

As a result of Simmons’passion for bread and breadmaking “one of the humblest, yet most essential ofobjects is catalogued as precisely, rigorously and objectively as any work by a 1980s Conceptual artist” (Parr &Badger, The Photobook: A History, Volume I, 56).

41. NEWNHAM-DAVIS, Lt. Col. & Algernon BASTARD. TheGourmet’s Guide to Europe. First edition. Pp. xiv, 240. 8vo., original pictorial cloth showing acouple dining being attended to by obsequious waiters, some slightfading and rubbing to extremities, a little spotting, otherwise good.London, Grant Richards. 1903. £125 The book takes a tour to Paris, French Provincial Towns, Belgium and Brussels,Holland, Germany, Berlin, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Austria, Hungary,Roumania, Scandinavia, Russia, Turkey and Greece. Particular establishmentsand dishes are recommended and all is written in a captivating manner –”peas-ants of France had crushed the bones of their ducks for a century before we inLondon had ever heard of Canard a la Presse”. Often the clientele of a restau-rant is described and all the general ambience. A really fine read and a true re-flection of good, and bad, eating throughout pre WWI Europe – in Berlin “go tothe Bauernschanke, which has obtained a celebrity for the violence and rude-ness of its proprietor, who … insults his customers to the uttermost and turnsout anyone who objects” and his pitiful descriptions of eating in Greece – “a most grave litterateur applied theadjective “beastly” to all Greek restaurants, and added that the one crying need of Greece and Athens is anAmerican bar for the sale of cooling drinks in the Parthenon”.

Scottish cookery to promote Gaelic42. HIGHLAND ASSOCIATION. The Feill Cookery Book. Pp.248, plus ads. 8vo., original blue, red and black pictorial cloth.Some rubbing and darkening to the spine, slightly shaken, otherwisegood. Glasgow, McNaughtan & Sinclair. 1907. £50 The Highland Association benefited from sales of this book, to help it in its aimto promote the Gaelic language and culture particularly in Highland schools.

The recipes are all attributed to particular contributors, mainly from differ-ent parts of Scotland and several of them are Scottish in origin, for instanceHotch-Potch, Cock a Leekie soup, herring in oatmeal, grouse souffle, haggis,Scotch collops, sheep’s head pie, snipe pudding, Aberdeen toast, crowdie etc.There are also a few pages of Gaelic recipes written in English and Gaelic whichincludes pancakes and tablet.

43. GERMAN CHARCUTERIE BOOK. BRUNFAUT, Eugen.Kunstgemasse Garnierung von Schusseln. With 36 vibrant chromolithograph plates. Pp. 90. Oblong 8vo., orig-inal blue cloth decorated in gilt and brown patterns and elaboratelly lettered in gilt on upper


cover, slightly rubbed at extremities but on the whole a very good copy. Berlin, AllegemeineFelischer-zeitung. c.1910. £350 Spectacular graphic and brightly coloured plates of meat platters, hams, pigs’ trotters, decorated terrines andpates.

Weiss, Gastronomia, Eine Bibliographie der deutschsprachigen Gastonomic, 518.

44. FREEMAN, Margaret B. Herbs for the MediaevalHousehold, for Cooking, Healing and Divers Uses. Fifth printing. Reproductions of fifteenth and sixteenth centurywoodcuts throughout. Printed in red and black on specially madepaper. Pp. xiv, 48. Sm. 4to.,original red, green and cream patternedboards, in the original dust jacket, chipping to the jacket, otherwisea very good copy. Printed at the Harbor Press and designed by FranzC Hess. New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1964. £40 A beautifully produced book written by the curator of the Cloisters in New Yorkwho describes 85 different herbs and their uses.

45. BOXER, Arabella. First Slice Your Cookbook. First edition. With decorations by Alan Cracknell. Tall 4to., the bookcomes in three sections, each a third of the page and independentlymoveable on a spiral binding with a covering blue cloth spine andpictorial cloth covered boards of blue and white tiles, head and tailof pine a little chipped, some slight darkening to cloth, otherwisevery good in the original slipcase with photograph of Arabella Boxerby David Bailey. London, Nelson. 1964. £50 The book is in three sections, each a third of the page as a “slice” of the book:Soups, Hors d’ouvre; Main Dishes; Sweets, Savouries, so that readers can devisethe perfect menu.

Arabella Boxer, the aristocratic journalist, grades each dish for richness (be-tween 1 and 4) and a wine is recommended by the Wine and Food Society forevery main dish.

Very much of its time.

46. BOXER, Arabella. A Second Slice, An Anthology. First edition. 4to, spiral bound in three parts so dinners can be mixedand matched, in an external cloth binding and in the original slipcase(bit worn). London, Thomas Nelson. 1966. £45 A sequel to the popular First Slice Your Cookbook. The emphasis in this book beingon English food of the Twenties and Thirties.


Derek Cooper’s copy47. BOXER, Arabella. Arabella Boxer’s Book of English Food. Arediscovery of British food from before the War. First edition. Illustrations by Jessica Gwynne. Pp.xiv, 270. 8vo., originalbrown cloth, original dust jacket. London, Hodder & Stoughton. 1991.

£50 Derek Cooper’s copy with a postcard from the author inserted loose signed ‘Ara-bella’ thanking him for a piece he sent to her. whe goes on “I sat next to LudovicKennedy at a Book Fair recently and asked him if he knew Nairn in Darkness andin Light (he lived in Nairn as a child). And he raved about it, just like you”.

Elizabeth David48. DAVID, Elizabeth. Cooking with Le Creuset. First edition. Illustrations in text. Pp. 38. 8vo, original spiral boundprinted wrappers, generally very good. London, Clarbat Lt. 1969.

£50 Elizabeth David describes how she found her first Le Creuset dishes in a shop inMarseilles just after the war and that they were some of her very first cookingutensils. She writes that she must have bought some of their very first pots asthey were first mad in the mid-1930s. She provides her usual reliable and variedrecipes to put into the dishes.

Signed by Elizabeth David, from Derek Cooper’s library49. DAVID, Elizabeth. English Bread and Yeast Cookery. First edition, second printing. Illustrations by Wendy Jones. Pp.xxii, 591.8vo., original brown cloth, original dust jacket (price clipped, spinefaded and a little creased), generally good. London, Allen Lane. 1978.

£350 Signed in green pen by Elizabeth David on the title page. From the library of DerekCooper, founder and presenter of the Radio 4 Food Programme.

50. DAVID, Elizabeth. Harvest of the Cold Months. The SocialHistory of Ice and Ices. First edition. Pp. xviii, 413. 8vo., original blue cloth, in the original dustjacket (spine slightly faded and a little creased). London, MichaelJoseph. 1994. £60 Published posthumously under the editorship of David’s editor and literary execu-tor Jill Norman. More a social history than a cook book this is a fascinating bookabout ice houses, snow pits, the international ice, sherbet and ice-cream trade.


Derek Cooper’s copy with a letter from the author51. COOPER, Artemis. Writing at the Kitchen Table. The Authorized Bi-ography of Elizabeth David. First edition. 32 illustrations. Pp. xx, 364. 8vo., original black cloth, original dustjacket (slight creased), generally very good. London, Michael Joseph. 1999.

£40 Derek Cooper’s copy with a postacard from Artemis Cooper inserted loose, thanking him forhis review of the book in the Sunday Times and declaring her admiration for his work in thefood world and on the Food Programme in particular.

Inscribed to Derek Cooper52. OLNEY, Richard. Simple French Food. First UK edition. With illustrations by the author. Pp. vi, 340. 8vo., original greycloth, dust jacket, a very good copy. London, Jill Norman & Hobhouse. 1981.

£25 The best of ‘cuisine bourgeoise’ with clear and unfussy directions. A very good book withsome really fine recipes. The book was first printed in the US in 1974.

Inscribed by the author to Derek Cooper “amicale ment – Richard”.

Derek Cooper’s copy53. FISHER, M.F.K. As They Were. First edition, thus. Pp. vi, 261. 8vo., original light blue cloth, original dust jacket(slightly creased at the edges). London, Chatto & Windus & the Hogarth Press.1983. £45 An anthology of M.F.K. Fisher’s writing over nearly 50 years. With the ownership inscriptionof Derek Cooper.

Jane Grigson

First edition54. GRIGSON, Jane. Fruit Book. First edition. Illustrated by Yvonne Skargon. Pp. xviii, 508. 8vo., original bluecloth, original dust jacket (top edge slightly creased). Very good. London,Michael Joseph. 1982. £50

55. GRIGSON, Jane. Jane Grigson’s Fish Book. Illustrated by Yvonne Skargon. First edition thus. Pp. x, 563. 8vo., original bluecloth, in the original dust jacket (spine very slightly faded), a very good copy.London, Michael Joseph. 1993. £30 Some of the material for this book appeared in Grigson’s book Fish Cookery in 1973 but muchof it is new and this book is a monumental achievement. It was published after her death in1990.


Derek Cooper’s copy56. GRIGSON, Jane. Service of Thanksgiving, St. Margaret’s Church,Westminster Abbey. 28 June 1990. Pp. 12. 8vo., stapled as issued, very good. 1990. £80 Derek Cooper’s copy inserted into his rather used copy of Jane Grigson’s Good Things, firstedition.

Derek Cooper was the founder and long-time presenter of the Food Programme on Radio4 and a great friend of Jane Grigson. He read from her writings at her memorial service.

Inscribed by the author to Derek Cooper57. OWEN, Sri. Indonesian Food and Cookery. Illustrations by Thao Soun. Second edition, revised and enlarged. 8vo., originalprinted cloth. Very good copy. London, Prospect Books. 1986. £50 Inscribed by the author to Derek Cooper: “Selamat Memasak’ dan ‘Selamat Makan’ to DerekCooper with best wishes from Sri Owen, Wimbledon, 1/8/86”.

58. HAMLYN, Matthew. WOOLLEY, Hannah. The Recipes of HannahWoolley. English Cookery of the Seventeenth Century, edited for Today’sCooks. First edition. Pp. viii, 144. 8vo., original blue cloth, original dust jacket (spinevery slightly faded), a very good copy. London, Heinemann Kingswood. 1988.

£20 A wide selection of Hannah Woolley’s dishes, all brought up to date enough to make thempossible to prepare in the modern kitchen but retaining as much as possible of the originalflavours and ingredients. Above all it is interesting historically as well as on the practical level.

Inscribed to Derek Cooper59. WHITLEY, Liz & RICHTER, Diane. The Village Bakery Cook Book. 36Recipes from the Village Bakery Restaurant. Illustrations by Christopher Cunliffe. Pp. viii, 49. 8vo., spiral bound with thickpaper dust jacket, a good copy. Melmerby, Cumbria, The Village Bakery. 1993.

£25 Inscribed by one of the authors to Derek Cooper.

Inscribed to Derek Cooper60. SLATER, Nigel. The 30 Minute Cook. The Best of the World’s QuickCooking. First edition. 8vo., original red cloth, dust jacket (showing signs of use), gen-erally good. London, Michael Joseph. 1994. £35 Inscribed by the author to Derek Cooper “To Derek, with best wishes Nigel”.


Alan Davidson

Inscribed by the author to Derek Cooper61. DAVIDSON, Alan. On Fasting and Feasting. A Personal Col-lection of Favourite Writings on Food and Eating. First edition. Illustrations by Susan Alcantarilla. 8vo., original blue cloth,dust jacket (tiny bit bumped at edges). Very good copy. London, Mac-donald Orbis. 1988. £50

Extracts from a broad range of food writing - for example Sir Kenelm Digby on tea with egg, William Verral onkitchen equipment, Dumas on hermit crabs, Elizabeth David on buttered toast and Patience Gray on cloudbber-ries. A really interesting read.

Inscribed by the author to Derek Cooper: “with admiration and best wishes”.

62. DAVIDSON, Alan & KNOX, Charlotte. Fruit. A Connoisseur’s Guideand Cookbook. First edition. Numerous full page colour illustrations throughout. Over 30 pagesof recipes. Pp. 192. Large 4to., original green cloth with silver lettering, in theoriginal unclipped dust jacket. A very good copy. London, Mitchell Beazley.1991. £60

63. DAVIDSON, Alan. Food History Comes of Age. First edition. Pp.48 8vo., original stiff paper wrappers. An immaculate copy.Amsterdam, Pramium Erasmianum Essay. 2003. £20 The essay written for the Praemium Erasmianum Foundation on the occasion of the award

of the Erasmus Prize to the food historian Alan Davidson.

Original artwork for Davidson’s books

Original artwork for the second edition of Davidson’s very first book

64. DAVIDSON, Alan. Original artwork for Mediterranean Seafood. Davidson’s copy of the New, Revised Edition of Mediterranean Seafood byAlan Davidson, paperback, published by his Prospect Books in 2002. To-gether with original artwork for the second edition to be used again in thisone all labelled with page numbers and notes by Davidson. Included are 9original drawings by Peter Stebbing, a labelled map, and 4 reproductionsof drawings all of which appeared in the book, often reduced in size. Alsowith the group are 8 images from the second edition which were replacedwith other drawing in the new edition, again these are all labelled withnotes by Davidson. £350 The original drawings include a pottery jar from Knossos, a fish kettle, a tajin foukhar and


a fish plate at Brussels which depicts a mullet, cuttlefish and bream. He has written on one of the drawings whichis of a fish called Penaeus Caramiste “Please be very careful of this illustration. It is the only one in existence of thisfish”.

Mediterranean Seafood was published in 1972 and was in effect the second edition of this work which wasfirst privately published by Davidson in Tunisia by stencil machine copying and was entitled Seafish of Tunisiaand the Central Mediterranean. It came to the notice of Elizabeth David who passed it on to Penguin Books whopublished it under the Mediterranean Seafood title.

65. DAVIDSON, Alan. Original artwork for North Atlantic Seafood. Over 55 images mainly of different species of fish intended for North Atlantic Seafood withDavidson’s manuscript notes and page numbers. Most were unused but preserved by Davidsonas possible illustrations for other books including the second edition of Mediterranean Seafood.Most of the images are photographic reproductions from early publications or archives butone drawing is included. c.1978–9 £200 Probably Davidson’s greatest work, North Atlantic Seafood was first published by Macmillan in 1979 and wonthe Glenfiddich Award.

66. DAVIDSON, Alan. Original artwork for Seafood of South East Asia. Davidson’s copy of the revised edition of the book, published by Prospect Books in 2003 inperfect condition. Together with original artwork for the revised edition neatly kept in separateenvelopes and labelled by Davidson, including 3 original pen and ink drawings and 51 originalnegatives of fish sometimes with reproductions with notes and relevant page numbers. £300 Together with a typed recipe for Chinese jelly fish plus 3 pages of typed notes by Davidson on the revised editionof the book. One, to Janet, says “Some of the drawings from the old book will of course be too big for the newplan, but they can be reduced easily … .Wuff, ‘tis late, I must to bed, bon soir … .A”

The drawings include 2 different types of crab – Sesarma meinerti and matata planipes and a large shellcreature Lambis lambis. Not all of the images were used but Davidson keptthe unused and superseded images in case they would be useful in otherpublications.

Seafood of South East Asia was first published in 1976, just after David-son had returned from his job as ambassador to Laos. It is his usual mix ofbiology and cookery with some fascinating recipes from all over Sotuh EastAsia

67. [DAVIDSON, Alan.] Original portraits of Alan Davidson. Three superb original portraits of Alan Davidson done in Laosin 1973 when he was ambassador there, very probablyj by ThaoSoun Vannithone, each with inscriptions. Two are pencil draw-ings, one of his head, the other full length with him sitting at atable with tea, reading. The third image is spectacular and in inkon thin parchment of Davidson seated at a table typing. Alsoincluded are poor photocopiesof two other images of Davidsonby the same artist one with an inscription in ink in his hand.

£375



65.

66.

Soun Vannithone, probably the hand behind these portraits, was theyoung Laotian artist used by Davidson for his book on Laotian cook-ery and for other publications.

Alan Davidson’s copy with note from the author, together with the original artwork

68. DORJE, Rinjing. [DAVIDSON, Alan.] Original art-work for Food in Tibetan LifeFirst edition of Food in Tibetan Life with a note to Alan David-son, it’s publisher, from the author and illustrator RinjingDorje. 8vo., original yellow cloth, in the original dust jacketwith tiny patch of wear at the top of the spine. London,Prospect Books. 1985.With the original artwork by Rinjing Dorje including 19 orig-inal pencil drawings and copies of them with Alan Davidson’scomments on them and 6 additional drawings whichweren’t published. c.1984–5. £300 Alan Davidson was responsible for editing and published Dorje’s Food in Tibetan Life which is a really interestingbook with numerous recipes as well as insights into everday traditions in Tibet. It is the first book in English todescribeb Tibetan food. Dorje writes well and enables the reader to place the food in the appropriate culturalcontext. He was born in a Tibetan village and as a boy he worked as a cook in a Buddhist monastery near thefrontier.

The drawings are primitive but very authentic and appealing. They are drawn on a large scale and then re-duced for publication.

Wine, Beer &C

Wine and wine-making in Cyprus69. MARITI, Giovanni. Del Vino di Cipro. First and only edition. Engraved title page amd arms on dedication. Pp. [2], xvi, 127. 8vo., a re-markably handsome copy in a contemporary Italian binding of full mottled calf with an elab-orate gilt decorated binding, red and black spine labels lettered in gilt, patterned paperendpapers, edges speckled in blue, a very good clean copy. Firenze, nella Stampería Granducale,per Gaetano Cambiagi, 1772. £7,000 Very important early work on the wine and winemaking in Cyprus by Mariti who lived on Cyprus for seven yearsand became an honorary vice-consul for the British on Cyprus.The work is dedicated to the British Lord Nassau Clavering, “Conte di Cowper, Bisconte di Fordwich, Barone diWingham”.The book describes in great detail th8

Simon BV p.139


First edition70. SPEECHLY, William. A Treatise on the Culture of theVine … exhibiting new and advantageous methods ofpropagating, cultivating and training that plant, so as torender it abundantly fruitful. Together with new hintson the formation of vineyardsin England. First edition (the second and third were published in 1805 and1821). 4to., recent contemporary style half calf, original mar-bled boards. Pp. xvi, [vi (list of subscribers)], 224, bound in be-fore plates I & II are unnumbered leaves with descriptive texton their versos. 5 engraved plates, 3 folding. Covers rubbed,some soiling, handsome, fresh and entirely uncut copy. York,printed for the author by G. Peacock. 1790. £1,750 From the library of the great gastronomic collector Marcus Crahan.

A “practical, well-written and beautifully printed manual” (from Gabler,quoting Edward Hyams in Grapes under Cloches). The book proved to havelong lasting popularity and two further editions appeared in 1805 and 1821.

William Speechly (c1740–1821), was gardener to the third Duke ofPortland, at his estate Welbeck Abbey in Nottinghamshire. Encouraged bythe Duke he started writing down and publishing his knowledge and experience in gardening, and already in1776 he had contributed to Alexander Hunter’s edition of Evelyn’s “Silva”. In the present work Speechly describes50 species of grapes, and thoroughly examines hothouse culture, the construction and management of vine-yards, pruning, irrigation, grafting, insect and blight control, etc. Speechly also wrote an important treatise onthe pineapple.

In the present copy the usual four-page list of Subscribers is supplemented by a tipped-in leaf headed onthe recto, “The following Subscribers’ Names were received since the Alphabetical List was printed”, followedby a list of some 35 names. This additional leaf is not mentioned in the detailed collation in Henrey.

Gabler G37890; Henrey 1376; Simon, Bibliotheca Gastronomica, p.132; Bib. Vinaria p.50

The best guide to late 18th and early 19th centurywines of the world

71. REDDING, Cyrus. A History and Description ofModern Wines. Decorated with 15 charming engravings on title page and atthe head of every chapter. First edition. Pp. xxxvi, 407. 8vo, avery good copy in a designed binding of full blue morocco witha a vine leaf in blind and gilt on the upper cover and the originallabel on the spine. bump to the upper cover and ink stain acrossthe title page, otherwise a desirable copy. London, Whittaker,Treacher & Arnot. 1833. £500 The first book in English dealing with ‘modern” wines everywhere includinga detailed table classing wines from France, Spain, Hungary, Germany, Sicily,Naples and South Africa with descriptions of their properties. Interestingly


Redding only bothers with French wines when it comes to the second and third class.He begins with a chapter on viniculture, then wirtes in detail, a chapter on each, of the wines of various

countries, region by region including a great deal on France, then Spain, Germany & Switzerland, Portugal andMadeira, Italy, Hungary, Austria, Styria and Carynthia, Greece & Russia as well as Persia, the East, Africa and Amer-ica.Redding, originally an author of histories and a journalist, spent a great deal of time visiting the vineyards ofFrance and Italy. His book is incredibly accessible as he writes in an unpretentious style and manages to conveythe joys and tastes of wine with some ease. Much praised by Andre Simon, Gabler agrees and writes that there

is “nothing better in the English language”. Scarce.Gabler 33940.

Third, expanded edition72. REDDING, Cyrus. A History and Description ofModern Wines. Third edition, with additions and corrections. Engraved fron-tispiece, Relics of the Boar’s Head, with engraved illustrationsin the text. Pp. viii, 440. 8vo., contemporary half calf withred and gilt spine label, rebacked with original spine laiddown, rather worn with some paint stain to lower edge, gen-erally clean internally. London, Henry G. Bohn. 1851. £150 Redding was primarily a journalist who wrote a variety of books includ-ing a biography of William IV and A History of Shipwrecks. He becameinvolved with wine by accident. in 1814 he was sent to Paris as a corre-spondent and spent his 5 years there visiting the vineyards of Franceand Italy. He had a wonderful time which he recalls in the introductionto A History and Description of Modern Wines: “I cannot look back withoutpleasure to seasons spent in lands of the vine, not in the town, but inthe heart of the country … .”

Gabler G33960 – Simon BV misdates this addition as 1871.

73. D’ARMAILHACQ, Armand. La Culture des vignes,La Vinification et Les Vins dand Le Medoc avec un Etatdes Vignobles D’Apres leur Reputation. Second edition. 3 plates. Pp. [4], xiv, 566. 8vo., a very attrac-tive copy in half blue morocco with marbled paper coveredboards, red morocco and gilt spine labels and with the orig-inal wrappers bound in at the back. Bordeaux, P. Chaumas.1858. £525 An important work on the physiology of the vine, how to grow vinesand look after them as well as grape varieties in the Medoc. He also de-scribesin detail all the different wine estates of the time in Bordeaux.

Very rare. Simon BV only lists a later edition of 1867Worldcat records only 5 copies of this edition and 4 of the first edi-

tion of 1855.


74. VIZETELLY, Henry. Wines of the World Characterized &Classed: with Some Particulars Respecting the Beers of Eu-rope. Devised and expanded from two Reports drawn up for the ViennaUniversal Exhibition of 1873. First edition. Pp. 1875. 8vo., con-temporary full maroon calf, spine elaborately decorated in gilt,gilt rules on sides, elaborate gilt inner dentelles, joints skilfully re-paired. London, Ward, Lock & Tyler. 1875. £850 A superb book summarizing wine from all over the world seen through theeyes of the Grand Jury in Vienna in 1873. Really detailed and beautifully de-scribed summary of wine as it was in 1875.

Gabler, G40360

75. COSTE-FLORET, P. Le Vins Blanc. Second edition, considerably enlarged. Pp. viii, 442. 8vo., in at-tractive contemporary half calf with marbled boards, spine withblack and gilt label and gilt device. Bit rubbed with small mark tobottom of spine, spotting to first blanks, otherwise good. Mont-pellier & Paris. Coulet et Fils & Masson et Cie. 1903. £100 This is the second of three books written by Coste-Floret on Les Procédés mod-ernes de vinification, first published between 1899 and 1901. It is a completeand serious guide to making white wine.

André SimonAll volumes signed by André Simon

76. SIMON, André. The History of the Wine Trade inEngland. 3 volumes. All signed by Andre Simon (two at the time of pub-lishing and one three years before he died. 1906–1909). 8vo.,original green cloth with gilt lettering and gilt device on uppercover. Volume II cloth rather dampstained, the others with someslight rubbing to head and tail of spine and occasional marks butinternally very good. London, Wyman & Sons. 1906–9. £850 André Simon (1877–1970) was a French born wine merchant, gourmet,book collector and prolific writer about wine and the key figure in the wineworld in the 20th century. This is his most distinctive work.


77. SIMON, André. Everybody’s Guide to Wines and Spirits. 21 illustrations, mostly photographic. Pp. 194. 8vo., original deep burgundycloth, original price clipped dust jacket. A very good copy. London, CharlesSkilton Ltd. 1966. £40 This is the expanded edition of a book published under a different title in 1961.

A very good guide to the wines of the world and how to keep, buy, decant and serveit.

Signed by Simon78. SIMON, André L. In the Twilight. First edition. Portrait frontispiece. Pp. vi, 182. 8vo., origInal maroon cloth,in the original slightly worn dust jacket. London, Michael Joseph. 1969.

£80 Simon looks back over his 92 years and gives us glimpses into the life of this extraordi-nary, wine merchant, author, wine expert, bibliophile, traveller and much else besides.

With a huge signature right across the half title by Simon.

79. BOLITHO, Hector. The Wine of the Douro. First edition. 18 photographic illustrations. Small 4to. Pp. 23, a near finecopy in original maroon cloth and the original dust jacket. London, Sidgwick& Jackson. 1956. £50With signed portrait inserted loose. Inscribed.

With photographs by Doisneau & Brassai80. DOISNEAU, Robert. BRASSAI et al. Belles Vignes,Vins Joyeux. Elaborately illustrated ‘wine diary’ with photographs includ-ing 5 by Doisneau and 2 by Brassai. 8vo., original spiral boundphotographic covers, little rubbed at extremities, otherwisevery good. New York, Lumen publishers, 1959. £225


81. SHAND, P. Morton. A Book of French Wines. Revised and enlarged edition, the first appeared in 1928. 8vo., bound byAspreys of London in a rich full blue morocco with vine decorations andborders in gilt, gilt turn-ins, all edges gilt. Spine faded, otherwise verygood. London, Jonathan Cape. 1960. £200 Shand’s work is an excellent guide to French wines including the wines of the Pyre-nean Area, Bordeaux, The Loire, Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and Lorraine, TheRhone, Provence and Longudoc, Corsica and French Brandies. Completed just beforethe author’s death.

A handsome copy.

Derek Cooper’s copy82. BESPALOFF, Alexis. The Fireside Book of Wine. First edition. Pp. 445. 8vo., original purple cloth, decorated in gilt, originaldust jacket (bit worn and chipped at extremities). New York, Simon &Schuster. 1977. £25 A really entertaining read being taken from writings from some of the World’s great-est writers and wine lovers including Keats on the pleasures of claret, Baudelaire onwine and hashish, Baron Philippe de Rothschild on his first days at Mouton, RLStevenson on Napa wine, Henry James on Bordeaux and the French character,Lawrence Durrell on a wine-tasting party etc.

With the ownership inscription of Derek Cooper the founder and presenter of theRadio 4 Food Programme.

Inscribed to Derek Cooper83. YAPP, Robin & Judith. Vineyards & Vignerons. Illustrated throughout by Charles Mozley. Pp.125. Sm. folio, original greencloth in the original dust jacket. Spine slightly faded, otherwise a very goodcopy. Dorset, The Blackmore Press. 1979. £45 A superb journey through the vineyards and vignerons of the Loire and the Rhonevalleys. Yapp Brothers began in 1969 as a wine merchant specializing solely in thewines of the Loire and Rhone. It is still prospering today.

Inscribed by the authors to Derek Cooper, “For Derek Cooper, who is as interestedin the quality control of fine wine as ourselves, with love (and diffidence)”

Inscribed to Derek Cooper84. RAY, Cyril. The New Book of Italian Wines. First edition. Pp. 158. 8vo., original yellow cloth, original dust jacket(faded), generally very good. London, Sidgwick & Jackson. 1982. £35 An updating of Ray’s famous Wines of Italy, published in 1966, providing a full descrip-tion of the couple of hundred wines which had achieved D.O.C. status together withother wines Ray found particularly interesting.

Inscribed by the author to the founder and presenter of the Radio 4 Food Pro-gramme Derek Cooper “for Derek Cooper, who deserves better from his old friend andcolleague Cyril Ray”.


Manuscript Cookery & Household Books

85. BRITISH EIGHTEENTH/NINETEENTH CENTURY COOKERY MANUSCRIPT. Cookeryand Physic. 20 pages of closely written manuscript, 17 of which are cookery and 3 physic. In the originalmarbled paper wrappers, housed in protective green cloth boards. c. late eighteenth/early nine-teenth century. £300 The recipes include how to pot lampreys, pickle mushrooms, “mangoe” (pickled cucumbers), ‘kitchup’, mush-room powder, pickled ‘wall-nuts”, ‘Stoughton’s drops’ made out of French Brandy, snake root, Seville oranges,lemon, saffron, ‘cocheneal’ etc. More substantial items include Scotch collops, how to stew a rump of beefwhole, Calves Head hash fried in egg, forced meat ball, roasted pike, almond pudding, pickled oysters, ‘a liquor

for Sturgeon when ‘tis decayed, ‘pickel’ onions, salmon and anchovies, pottedhare and herrings, rabbit ‘frigasee’ etc. They are very detailed and unusuallyprofessional with a great use of herbs and spices. A superb collection.

The pages of remedies are in a different, later hand and include remediesfor epilepsy, whooping cough, broken skin, sore throat and stomach pain.

86. MRS. HOWARD OF STAINES, MIDDLESEX & SALSFIELDCOURT, NR. WESTERHAM Household Recipe Book. 1811–1821. 55pp. of hand-written household recipes written in different hands.8vo., original marbled paper wrappers, worn but strong. Staines &Westerham. 1811–1821. £120 The recipes include ‘to colour a room green”, cures for whooping cough,toothache, typhus, warts, corns and consumption, a strenghtening potion, an-tibilious pills and a remedy for rheumatism. There are occasional drink relatedrecipes including one for coffee, ginger beer and wine, vinegar, damson, elder,raspberry and gooseberry wine, “to make champagne equal to foreign” as wellas different directions for curing hams.

87. ENGLISH COOKERY MANUSCRIPT. Reading, c.1816–17. 25 pages of densely written manuscript containing over 65 recipes. Sq. 8vo, original clothbacked marbled paper covered limp boards. Generally good. Reading. c.1816/17. £150



85.

Many of the recipes are attributed, mainly to people in Reading hence the inference that the manuscriptcomes from there. The recipes include one claiming to be the original for Bath Oliver biscuits as well as full di-rections for Indian pickle, Waldon sausages, gingerbread nuts, walnut ketchup, Dutch flummery (which in-cludes half a pint of mountain wine), white ratifie, English noyeau, Chicken Panada and several ways withpotatoes.

There are very few household recipes but the ‘Opera House recipe’ for sprains is included.

Remarkable nineteenth century cookery archive88. JOHN & HENRY LOCKE, COOK & CONFECTIONERS, GLOS. Cookery Archive. A really remarkable Cookery archive for the Locke family’s catering and confectionary firm in-cluding 3 manuscript recipe books, a printed flyer and two printed bottle labels. Also in the lotare two mid-19th century French Cookery books, with the ownership inscription of HenryLocke. Gloucester & Cheltenham. c. 1810–1880. £2,750 John Locke was the founder of the family firm in Gloucester, Gloucestershire. He created Gloucestershire Relishand began the catering side of the business. He died in 1833 aged only 41 and his son took over the businessand clearly developed it into a successful concern, basing himself in Cheltenham. Henry died in 1896 aged 75.


Cookery Manuscripts

1. 84 pp. manuscript book, apparently a draft for part of a book as on the front endpaper itstates “Henry Locke on Cookery & Confectionery, Cheltenham, ‘52”. Square 8vo., originalroan backed marbled paper covered boards, worn on the exterior but still intact and good in-ternally. 1852.The manuscript is clearly written and begins with a list of things in season in January and Feb-ruary and then a few necessary French terms. These terms along with the predominence ofFrench recipes in the book would imply that Locke used the English translations of Frenchcookery books in his library (see below) to research his own book and develop his cateringbusiness. The recipes are mainly for fish and meat dishes and are very well written with personaltips as to how to cook things as one would expect from a professional.

2. 110pp. manuscript notebook with the ownership inscription ‘Henry Locke, Cook& Confectioner, Cheltenham’. 8vo., original blind stamped roan, very worn with covers onlyjust attached but intact. The notebook must have been started by Henry Locke around the1850s when most of the notes were written and continued right into the 1890s. The bookstarts with instructions for various confectioner’s processes including cracking, blowing, thread-ing, pearleing, clarifying, how to make caramel and various jams and jellies. Throughout thebook there are notes on how to make many different biscuits, sponges, breads as well as saucesand main courses. These are usually in brief form with the main focus being on quantities ofingredients as one might expect from a cook’s personal notebook. The book was clearly a functioning notebook for the business with several names and addresses of clients,along with notes on what was to be served at the dinners catered by the Locke firm. For instance LadyLeighton at Bafford House used them in 1858 and they provided soups, salmon with lobster sauce, springchickens and saddle of mutton , guinea fowl, ducklings, sweetbreads, hot crab etc etc. There are many lists likethis including full table plans with all the dishes listed on it.

In addition there are some excellent tables for what is in season during each month and many other interest-ing notes. A fine example of a working notebook for a busy catering and confectionary company.

3. 34 pp. manuscript presumably for the continuation of the Locke family firm and most ofit relates to the 1870s and 80s. There are several recipes, details of accounts as well as daynotes for Christmas Eves, Good Fridays and Crop buns with how they were made and howmany were sold each year (for instance for Good Friday 1879 “all the buns sold by 6 o/c notquite enough, a few more currants, more fancy bread wanted, weather wet and showery” Thereare similar notes for other days and other years. There are also notes for catering jobs such as for the Keyneston’s at Montpellier Lodge in 1875.

Inserted loose in this book is a 20 page gathering of soup recipes as well as an 18pp. gathering listing sev-eral recipes including for almond slices, macaroons and many different biscuits and cakes – in the main partthe details are confined to quantities of the ingredients.


EPHEMERA

1. Manuscript recipes for Locke’s Bengal Chutnee and Locke’s Gloucestershire Relishwritten on the back of a flyer for John Locke’s business in Gloucester advertising their cateringfacilities and wedding cakes. 4pp., 1 printed, 3 handwritten.2. Label for ‘Gloucestershire Relish’ made and sold by John Locke, Cook & Confectioner, 48Barton St., Gloucester3. Directions label for Gloucestershire Relish “Before using shake the bottle. After usingcork tight and keep in a cool place”.

BOOKS

1. UDE, Louis Eustache. The French Cook. A System of Fashionable and EconomicalCookery, for the Use of English Families. Frontispiece portrait, 8 plates. 9th enlarged edi-tion. Pp. xxxviii, 496. 8vo., near contemporary, half calf with marbled paper boards, gold rulingon spine, black and gilt spine labels, bumped at extremities with some rubbing but generallyvery good. London, W.H. Ainsworth. 1827. Inscribed three times by Henry Locke, once describ-ing himself as a “Patissier’. 2. M. CARÊME, translated by William Hall. French Cookery, comprising, L’Art de la CuisineFrançaise; Le Patisssier Royal; Le Cuisinier Parisien. New edition. Pp. xliv, 422. 8vo., contem-porary half green morocco, marbled paper sides, some slight rubbing and spotting throughout,otherwise good. London, John Murray. 1840. Inscribed twice by Henry Locke


89. MRS. HOLROYD. MANUSCRIPT RECEIPT BOOK c.1830–1930. 102 pages of cookery recipes in three different hands, onefrom around 1830 to 1860 and one from the 1890s on-wards, plus 21 pages of household recipes starting fromthe opposite end of the book, in two different hands.Square 4vo, original red russian backed marbled paper cov-ered boards, slightly worn. c.1830–1930. £500 With the original red and gilt booklabel stating “Mrs. Holroyd. ReceiptBook” in gilt.

The earlier recipes include Italian Cheese, pork pies, sauces forwild fowl, pickled tongues, Scotch Woodcock, two different recipesfor velvet cream, mock ice, Portugal pudding, ‘A Praiseworthy Pud-ding’, various wines including Carnation Flower, cowslip and elder.There are several recipes for cakes, often with the name of theprovider of the recipe including several sponge and lemon cakes, almond cake ,lemon cheese cake and parkin(which includes caraway seeds and a later note which say ‘better without’). One recipe is for something called‘Grantham Whetstones’ which is comprised of flour, sugar, caraway seeds, egg and cream baked in slices.

The inclination is towards sweet dishes throughout, especially in the later recipes named “Hettie’s Receipts”but she also includes Bengal Chutney, pickled onions and some cheese recipes.The household recipes are varied and include how to crochet doilies, how to clean hair, recipes for furniturepolish, lipsalve, satin cleaner, tooth powder, various dyes, polishes sa well as some preserving directions, for in-stance how to preserve eggs in lime for winter use. There are also details dated in the 1850s of how to helpfaceache and toothache and a later cure for the cold ‘given by the son of doctor’ which includes laudanum.

Suffolk cookery manuscript90. GILBERT, Susan. British Cookery Manuscript,1848–1887. 196 manuscript pages of cookery recipes, all densely writtenin one hand. Seemingly copied from other manuscriptbooks she had kept to put everything in one place. Each sec-tion has an index list of recipes before the full recipes. 8vo.,straight grain morocco backed marbled paper coveredboards, spine ruled in gilt, marbled edges, a very handsomebook. 1848–1887. £550 The many recipes in the book include several wines and numerouscakes, puddings, flummeries, creams and custards, jellies, pickles andpreseves, a smattering of meat, poultry, fish and game recipes,sauces, syllabubs etc. Susan Gilbert clearly enjoyed cooking or food asthere is a verve and thoroughness in this book which goes beyondfunctional household cooking. She note when she has borrowedrecipes and it appears she was based in Suffolk as some have place oforigin which include Aldeburgh and Beccles.


A really interesting and detailed manuscript91. NORMANTON HALL. Early Victorian CookeryManuscript. 99 pages of closely written manuscript with 5 pages ofindex. 24 x 19 cms., original leather backed paste paper cov-ered boards, very worn with spine strip missing but stillintact. c. 1850. £750 A note on the endpaper declares that the manuscript is from Nor-manton Hall, which was a large country house in Rutland destroyedby fire in 1925. It was the seat of the Earls of Ancaster. This fact isbacked up by references to local foods such as Grantham Cake andWhetstones. Grantham being only a few miles away to the north.

The book is packed with recipes, all very English, the more un-sual being Gimcracks, German puffs, ‘amlet of cockles’, arrowrootpudding, Albert pudding, pickled barberries, stewed carp, cucumbercatchup, stewed eles, French Bread, transparent marmalade, ‘hen’snest’ (flummery in egg shells covered in jelly), ‘grenade’ (a leg of vealwith morels, mushrooms and truffles), ‘Wiggs’ (a sweet bread with

caraway seeds), ‘King’s Whim’ (a rice pudding with custard and sweetmeats). There are several recipes forwines, vinegars, pickles (including Indian pickle, herrings, codlins, lobsters and lemons), meat dishes, pies, fishdishes, puddings (including Tansy, Bath and Ratafia), numerous cakes and sweet dishes such as cheesecakes,syllabubs, jellies, creams, flummeries, preserved fruit etc. There is a fairly detailed recipe for making Stiltoncheese from scratch as well as Dalby Cheese and a good recipe for Crust for Pork Pie.

Several recipes are attributed, possible to former cooks at the Hall including a Mrs. Dawnes, Mrs. Wigg,Miss Corry, Mrs. Bingly, Mrs. Whitaker etc.

92. ELLEN WAINWRIGHT, Fakenham. Suffolk Manu-script Recipe Book, 1867–1899. 70 pages of manuscript recipes plus an index. Square 8vo.,original limp blind stamped cloth. Some areas of fading tothe cloth and some slight browning, otherwise good. Fak-enham, Suffolk. 1867–1899. £140 The emphasis of Ellen Wainwright’s recipe book is on cakes, pud-dings and sweets, pickles and preserves. It includes such delights as‘Best Cake’, ‘Homeopathic Pudding’, ‘Solid Lemon Cream’, ‘LemonTrifle’, ‘Sandringham Jelly’, ‘Primrose Pudding’, ‘Venus Creams’ andthe local ‘Lowestoft Pudding’.

Other solid recipes include various attributed ones from localladies such as salting a 10 stone pig, stewed pigeons, India pickle andinstructions to make Haselup’s Blue Riband Bitter Beer.

She has clearly used her sister’s old French poetry book as thereare 9 pages of French poetry by Mary Ann Wainwright dated 1858 atthe back.


CHINA &c

93. WHISTLER, Rex. Clovelly Teapot. Elegant teapot from Wedgwood designed byRex Whistler with two scenes from theDevon Village of Clovelly and four differentdevices, one of fishing nets, the other of dif-ferent floral patterns, all in black and de-signed by Whistler. ‘Rex Whistler Design,Wedgwood Made in England” on the base.Designed in 1933. £250 Rex Whistler was commissioned by Wedgwood tomake a design for a china service. He came up with‘Clovelly’ based on several views of the picturesqueDevon fishing village. He added some really charming floral devices and decorations using such relevant itemsas fishing nets and the service was born.

94. RAVILIOUS, Eric. Five tea cups andsaucers from the Wedgwood Travelservice. The tea cups each have the hot air balloondesign on the inside of the cup and the con-centric black and blue lines on the outsidewhich are matched on the rim of the saucers.The Wedgwood stamp 2D54 appears on thebottom of each saucer. 1954. £500 Ravilious actually completed his Travel design for Wedgwood in 1938 but it was not produced until after thewar, and Eric Ravilious’s death, between 1952 and 1954.

95. VERDIGRIS. ROTHCHILD (Judith) & LINTOTT (Mark). A Study of Two Pears/Etudede deux poires. Poem by Wallace Stevens translated into French by BernardNoel. Nine mezzotints of pears by Judith Rothschild accom-panying a text in English and French, image of two pears inblind on the loose endpapers. Printed in hand-set letterpresson an 1867 Albion press. One of 50 copies printed on Hahne-muhle paper as a leporello (this no. 24), signed by the artistand printer Mark Lintott.10 3/4” x 11 3/4”, loose as issued inthe original screen-printed wrappers of the curves of two pearsin gold and green and slipcase also with screen-prints printedby the artist. Octon, Verdigris. 2004. £700 A sumptuous feast for the eye. Rothchild and Lintott producing yet an-other remarkable work of art.


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