THREE PERFECT DAYS: MISSOULA, MONTANA

Author Laurie Carter Photography Robert Carter & Google Images

Reference Missoula Independent, “Best of Missoula” Readers Picks for 2012

FRIDAY DAY ONE: You arrive at dusk, admiring the rivers as they snake through the countryside. Feeling hungry for an evening snack with the need to breathe the reinvigorating Big Sky air, you drive to Finn & Porter (#1, 100 Madison, www.finnandporter.com), voted Best Outdoor Dining. You enjoy your fine meal and drinks on their back patio, right on the banks of the Clark Fork River, feeling like Norman Maclean in A River Runs Through It. The views of osprey, kayakers, fly fishermen and a tall drink in front of you reminds you why summer in our state stands second to none.

Afterwards, you duck into the Dana Gallery (#2, 246 North Higgins, www.danagallery.com) to join the reception for their newest artists on display. Owner Dudley Dana and his staff cultivate a diverse collection of paintings and photographs, such as Montana urban and rural landscapes, beautiful and odd portraits, realistic and impressionistic styles. But as the kids get restless, you realize that a better choice is to stroll over to The Top Hat (#3, 134 West Front, www.tophatmissoula.com) where every Friday night from 6-8pm, Family Friendly Friday musicians entertain the kids. You choose to order an adult beverage, and from the sidelines, watch your kids cut the rug.

After sending the kids off to bed under the supervision of a responsible adult, you recommend to your lovely partner that you two deserve a bit more time on the town before turning in for the night. Your suggestions include the Red Bird (#4, 111 North Higgins, www.redbirdrestaurant.com) voted Best Restaurant Wine List, as

well as Best Restaurant Service, and is located through the historic lobby of the beautiful art moderne style Florence Hotel. Another choice is the Rhino (#5, 158 Ryman), whose expansive selection of beer (and single malt scotch) is well documented at www.50beersin50days.com, where video clips describe the fifty beers on tap and their brewing process. The bar has a smoky collegiate atmosphere, but is THE place in town to find that obscure spirit.

SATURDAY DAY TWO: This morning you have decided to venture on one of the pearls of Missoula living, hiking to the M (see view from top photo). But, before you burn all those calories, you need to stock your body with calories, and wander over to The Shack Café (#6, 222 West Main, www.theshackcafe.com). Carrying the torch as “Best Breakfast” for five consecutive years, The Shack has been nourishing Missoulians and visitors for over 60 years, with omelets made with local ingredients to classic huckleberry pancakes.

Feeling fortified, you drive to the foot of Mount Sentinel, on the UM campus. You park your car in the lot just southeast of Washington Grizzly football stadium, off Campus Drive, in one of the coveted parking spaces designated for M Trail hikers (#7). The Hike to the M has been voted “Best View” for three years running, and is a constant favorite for “Best Place to Take Out-of-Towners”. The zigzag trail was forged over 100 years ago, with 14 switchbacks and 620 feet gain in elevation, though the trail itself is less than one mile long. The view expands from the University of Montana to all of Missoula, the valley, the Clark Fork River, and distant mountains. If you just have 20-30 minutes to climb up, the M is a great stop, but since you have more energy and another hour or two, you climb to the top of Mount Sentinel. To the north, you look across Hellgate Canyon to Mount Jumbo (the L) and the Rattlesnake National Recreational Area and Wilderness. To the south, you view the Bitterroot Mountains.

Afterwards, your clan is hungry and the adults are tired, though the kids have not worked off their ceaseless energy. Your next stop is naturally Caras Park (#8, Carousel Drive, off Ryman and Front), a great launching point for the Farmers Markets and the Carousel. The Clark Fork Market is located under the Higgins Street Bridge (#9, www.clarkforkrivermarket.com ) and The Missoula Farmers Market (#10, www.missoulafarmersmarket.com) is located in Circle Square, just a few blocks north by the railroad tracks. At both locales, you are able to enjoy locally grown and baked foods at the peak of their flavor, and support our local economy. Both markets are open from 8am to noon-ish, May through October. Geographically, between these two farmers markets can be found the Missoula Saturday Market aka People’s Market (#11, www.missoulasaturdaymarket.com) which showcases local arts and crafts. This is the perfect place to buy a birthday gift for someone who has everything and needs nothing. And since you have purchased more goodies that you would like to carry, you hop on the free Market Trolley that travels up and down Higgins on Saturday mornings.

Returning to Caras Park, your youthful party members remind you that you promised them a ride on a pony at A Carousel for Missoula (#12, 101 Carousel Drive, www.carrousel.com). Their slogan says it all:

“If magic can happen anywhere, it can happen in Missoula, where dreams are followed and promises are kept, and where people believe in making a life as well as making a living.”20 years ago, Missoula cabinet maker, Chuck Kaparich, presented his dream to the Missoula City Council, and his dream became the dream of a community. Four years later, and 100,000 volunteer hours invested (led by head carver, John Thompson, husband of pediatrician, Kathy Rogers), the Carousel opened with more than 40 ponies and the largest band organ in continuous use in the United States. Schoolchildren collected over one

million pennies to adopt four ponies. Your brave riders jockey to ride on the outside ponies (extra bonus: Scafti, the green dragon), to snatch colored rings from the mouth of Lucky Red Ringer, a wooden dragon, and hope to grasp the Brass Ring and win a free ride. Beware, this ride spins at a speed that mandates a leather seatbelt for all riders, and a discounted price for adults who ride with the little ones. And, as your head tries stop spinning after your ride, your kids can continue to spin on tire swings and spiral slides next door at Dragon’s Hollow. The head constructor, Bob Leathers, had visited local schools to find what children wanted in their idea play area. Kids wanted a dragon – with three heads, a stomach on which they could bounce, and an obstacle course with one slide being 25 feet tall!

Before your kids collapse on you, you wander over to Higgins Avenue to see what is on the marquee at The Wilma Theater (#13, 131 South Higgins, www.thewilma.com). Built during the Gold Rush, the Louis XIV style theater that seats over one thousand remains a Missoula icon. Even before you settle down to watch the entertainment of a documentary film, or a nationally touring punk-rock band, or the ballet, your senses are tantalized by contemplating the largest hand painted ceiling in the state and indulging your favorite microbrew.

Realizing that you forgot to buy a gift for your eccentric hairdresser, you meander down to Rockin’ Rudy’s (#14, 237 Blaine, www.rockinrudys.com), voted “Best Store for Gifts” and living up to its title! From candy gum to quirky jewelry, to their expansive collection of music, there is something for everyone – and you can order it online, if you’ve forgotten someone else after you depart Missoula.

Following a quick afternoon nap, you are all relaxed and hungry for a meal that reveals the best of Missoula (“Best Restaurant” and “Best Romantic Dining”), so you choose The Pearl Café (#15, 231 East Front, www.pearlcafe.us). Eating at the Pearl is like growing up French in Montana - there’s Elk Osso Bucco Bourguignonne, Bison Filet Medallions with Huckleberry Chutney, and even rabbit served with a red wine mushroom sauce. And your accomplished wait staff thoughtfully reminds you to leave room for the desserts and are eager to suggest complementary wines.

As you depart and amble through downtown Missoula, you realize that you are leaving tomorrow and there is so much more to see, eat, and drink! You send the kids off for their nightcap of choice, ice cream, at The Big Dipper, and you round the corner to for your favorite adult nightcap at the Kettlehouse. The Big Dipper (#16, 631 South Higgins, www.bigdippericecream.com) is best described by the Independent as “Missoula’s equivalent of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, because the shop always pushes the envelope with its creative and quirky flavors,” like the Honey Lavender ice cream recently made for LocalFest, local beers, black licorice, and even bacon. Food & Wine recently named it one of the best ice cream shops in the county, as well as one of America’s 75 Best Food Buys. And within hollering distance, you relax with a Cold Smoke Scotch Ale at the Kettlehouse (#17,602 Myrtle, www.kettlehouse.com). But your kids are safe, since, according to Montana State Law, a small brewery taproom can only serve 48 oz of beer per person per day. So when they stumble back to you, sticky and tired, you are able to coherently guide them into bed.

SUNDAY DAY THREE: Your carbohydrate feast yesterday has caused insulin spikes, and this morning you again are craving sweets. Scott Hevener’s book of photographic essays, “Baking Life Photographs 2006-2011” has been sitting on your coffee table, causing much salivation, and thus you trot over to Bernice’s Bakery (#18, 190 South 3rd West, www.bernicesbakerymt.com). You dive into a generous flaky croissant, appreciating the twenty four hour creative process with every bite, and sip a steaming mug of Bernice’s Blend roast, as you dream of what sandwich toppings perched on freshly baked bread will leave with you for lunch on the river.

You, and Norman Maclean, know that Missoula is the fly fishing mecca, thanks to its location at the confluence of the Bitterroot, Clark Fork, and Blackfoot Rivers. Depending on when your flight leaves, you either “wet a line” in one of dozens of locations off the Kim Williams Trail, or book one of the outstanding fly-fishing guides in town, such as Stacy Jennings of The Kingfisher (#19, 926 East Broadway, www.kingfisherflyshop.com). Dubbed “Donna Suprema of Fly-Fishing in the Valley” by the Independent, she offers classes and guided trips, and will rent all your gear – but don’t forget to visit Fish Wildlife & Parks (www.mt.gov) to obtain your fishing license!

Your perfect days in Missoula have fortified your belief in the humanity of this picturesque town, and as you scan your calendar to plan for your return visit, you recall Norman Maclean wise words. “The world is full of bastards, the number increasing rapidly the further one gets from Missoula, Montana.”