universitatea tehnicĂ “gheorghe asachi” din iaȘi teza... · motivul alegerii pantalonilor...
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UNIVERSITATEA TEHNICĂ “GHEORGHE ASACHI” DIN IAȘI
în cotutelă cu
TECHNISCHE UNIVERSITÄT DRESDEN
Fakultät Maschinenwesen, Institut für Textilmaschinen
und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik
RESEARCHES ON THE IMPLEMENTATION OF NEW DIGITAL
METHODS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS
FOR PEOPLE WITH LOCOMOTOR DISABILITIES
- abstract -
CERCETĂRI PRIVIND IMPLEMENTAREA UNOR NOI METODE
DIGITALE ÎN DEZVOLTAREA PRODUSELOR TEXTILE PENTRU
PERSOANE CU DIZABILITĂȚI LOCOMOTORII
- rezumat teză doctorat-
Doctorand: Ing. Bianca ALUCULESEI
Conducători de doctorat: Prof. Dr. Ing. Antonela CURTEZA
Prof. Dr. Ing. habil. Sybille KRZYWINSKI
IAȘI, 2019
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Cuprins / Contents Rezumat teză doctorat .................................................................................................................................. 4
1. Introducere ............................................................................................................................................ 4
2. Obiectivele cercetării ............................................................................................................................. 4
3. Partea experimentală ............................................................................................................................ 5
4. Rezultate și concluzii ............................................................................................................................. 8
5. Contribuția tezei .................................................................................................................................... 8
6. Cercetări viitoare ................................................................................................................................... 9
Abstract ....................................................................................................................................................... 10
Chapter 1: Introduction to the research ..................................................................................................... 10
1.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 10
1.2 Research objective ............................................................................................................................ 10
1.2.1. Challenges in the researched area ............................................................................................ 10
1.2.2. Objectives and structure of the work ........................................................................................ 10
Chapter 2: Disabilities: Definitions and clothing needs ............................................................................... 11
2.1. Disability ........................................................................................................................................... 11
2.2. Clothing for persons with special needs ........................................................................................... 11
2.3. Needs and demands of wheelchair users regarding clothing .......................................................... 12
Chapter 3: Garment design methods for wheelchair users - a literature review ....................................... 12
3.1. Anthropometric measurements ....................................................................................................... 12
3.2. Measurement techniques for wheelchair users ............................................................................... 13
3.2.1. Traditional method .................................................................................................................... 13
3.2.2. Three dimensional scanning procedure .................................................................................... 13
3.2.3. Kinematic body model ............................................................................................................... 13
3.3. Computer-aided design systems ...................................................................................................... 13
3.3.1 Conventional garment construction for wheelchair users ......................................................... 14
3.3.2. 3D virtual prototyping of garments for wheelchair users ......................................................... 14
Chapter 4: Methodology establishment in current research ...................................................................... 15
4.1. Research design, procedure and participants .................................................................................. 15
4.2. Three-dimensional scanning procedure ........................................................................................... 16
4.3. Scanning procedure for a wheelchair user ....................................................................................... 18
4.4. Body posture simulation using a kinematic template model ........................................................... 19
Chapter 5: Virtual pattern making for wheelchair users ............................................................................. 20
5.1. 3D-to-2D virtual prototyping ............................................................................................................ 21
5.2. Fit simulation for the tight-fitting trouser model ............................................................................. 23
5.3. 2D-3D virtual prototyping ................................................................................................................. 24
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5.3.1. The construction of basic trouser patterns and fit simulation ...................................................... 25
5.3.2. Modification of the basic trouser patterns ................................................................................... 26
5.3.3. Fit simulation of the modified basic trousers ................................................................................ 27
5.4. Designing a pair of trousers for a man wheelchair-user .................................................................. 28
5.5. Conclusions ........................................................................................................................................... 30
Chapter 6: General conclusions and future work ........................................................................................ 31
6.1. Results of the experimental studies ..................................................................................................... 31
6.2 Contribution of the thesis...................................................................................................................... 32
6.3. Future work .......................................................................................................................................... 33
References - selection ................................................................................................................................. 33
List of published papers ............................................................................................................................... 36
Awards ......................................................................................................................................................... 36
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Rezumat teză doctorat
1. Introducere În industria confecțiilor, odată cu evoluția tehnologiilor, activitatea de proiectare a trecut de
la etapa manuală la cea computerizată. Sistemele CAD utilizate pentru proiectarea formelor
tiparelor produselor de îmbrăcăminte au module care permit proiectarea plană (2D), proiectarea
3D și simularea în spațiul virtual a interacțiunii produs vestimentar- corp uman [1]. Evoluția
modulelor care permit proiectarea directă 3D a tiparelor produselor de îmbrăcăminte folosindu-se
de manechinul corpului uman a devenit o soluție inovativă pentru activitatea de design a
produselor de îmbrăcăminte, în special cea destinată persoanelor cu anumite dizabilități.
Dizabilitatea reprezintă incapacitatea sau limitarea de a efectua anumite activități legate de
acțiunile normale din viața de zi cu zi. Dizabilitatea poate rezulta din anumite deficiențe care pot
proveni dintr-o serie de probleme fizice, cognitive, mentale, intelectuale, senzoriale sau mentale.
Leziunea coloanei vertebrale reprezintă o leziune a coloanei sau a nervilor care poate afecta
abilitățile motorii sau senzoriale ale unei persoane. Paraplegia rezultă dintr-o leziune a măduvei
spinării [2] și se referă la o deficiență sau o pierdere a funcții motorii și/sau senzoriale la nivelul
toracic (T2-T12), lombar (L1-L5) sau sacral (S1-S5) ale măduvei spinării [3].
Produsele de îmbrăcăminte destinate persoanelor cu dizabilități trebuie să răspundă la
anumite nevoi speciale impuse de postura corpului, limitarea libertății de mișcare și a duratei
mari de ședere în scaunul cu rotile.
2. Obiectivele cercetării Industria de textile și confecții se află abia la începutul etapei de conștientizare a nevoilor
persoanelor cu dizabilități. La nivel European există firme de confecții care realizează produse
vestimentare destinate acestei categorii de purtător, dar în România nu există încă asemenea
producători.
Activitatea de cercetare pentru elaborarea tezei de doctorat cu titlul “Cercetări privind
implementarea unor noi metode digitale în dezvoltarea produselor textile pentru persoane cu
dizabilități locomotorii”, s-a orientat spre identificarea și analiza nevoilor și cerințelor
persoanelor care stau în scaunul cu rotile în ceea ce privește produsele vestimentare și s-au
propus soluții de proiectare a acestor produse, perfect adaptate particularităților lor (postură și
limitarea activității de mișcare).
Persoanele paraplegice reprezintă 1% din populația Europei, aproape opt milioane de
oameni [4], și sunt un grup de purtători care au necesități și nevoi specifice și din punct de vedere
vestimentar. În proiectarea și fabricația produselor de îmbrăcăminte destinate acestei grupe de
purtători trebuie să se țină cont de postura particulară a corpului și de durata mare de timp
petrecută în scaunul cu rotile.
Limitarea posibilității de mișcare a persoanelor care stau în scaunul cu rotile ridică
probleme la îmbrăcarea- dezbrăcarea produselor cu sprijin în talie→pantaloni. Principalul
obiectiv al acestui studiu de cercetare a fost proiectarea 3D a unui model de pantaloni, cu module
3D ale sistemelor CAD, folosind manechinul virtual corespunzător poziției șezânde a
purtătorului paraplegic.
În proiectarea tiparelor produselor de îmbrăcăminte prin metoda geometrică se folosesc
informații despre forma și dimensiunile corpului și ale modelului produsului de îmbrăcăminte
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dorit. Măsurarea dimensiunilor corpului uman se poate face prin metode directe (metode de
contact) și metode indirecte (metode fără contact).Informațiile despre forma și dimensiunile
corpului uman (persoane paraplegice) necesare scopului tezei de doctorat sunt obținute prin
scanare 3D. Scanarea s-a realizat folosind un scanner de mână și un scanner fix.
Pentru rezolvarea obiectivului tezei a fost necesară animarea unui corp cinematic într-un
mediu virtual, cu anumite mișcări și poziții. Animația unui corp 3D într-un mediu virtual poate
oferi informații despre forma corpului în anumite mișcări sau poziții. Prin realizarea animației
virtuale, s-au obținut diferite poziții dinamice ale corpului 3D.
În etapa următoare s-a proiectat un model de pantaloni folosind modulul 3D de proiectare al
sistemului CAD, potrivit dimensiunilor corpului și posturii acestuia pentru persoane care stau în
scaun cu rotile. După desfășurarea tiparelor, s-au obținut formele 2D ale reperelor de produs și
apoi s-a verificat modul de potrivire al modelului creat cu manechinul virtual al purtătorului.
Motivul alegerii pantalonilor pentru această cercetare a fost interesul pentru rezolvarea
problemelor pe care un utilizator de scaun cu rotile le are cu acest articol de îmbrăcăminte. În
comparație cu un produs pentru partea superioară a corpului, pantalonii necesită o modificare
mai complexa pentru a rezolva problemele de ajustare a produsului în poziția șezândă. Prin
simularea în spațiul virtual al prototipului elaborat se verifică corespondența dimensională
produs vestimentar- corp uman și echilibrul produsului pe corp.
3. Partea experimentală Partea experimentală a cercetării a fost efectuată la Universitatea Tehnică din Dresden,
Institutul pentru utilaje textile și tehnologii pentru materiale textile performante (ITM),
Germania. Protocolul de scanare pentru persoane care stau în scaun cu rotile (utilizarea scanner-
ului fix și mobil) s-a elaborat prin sesiuni succesive de scanarea a 2 persoane: 2 femei (25 și 62
de ani, în poziție ortostatica, persoane care nu au probleme cu poziția și postura corpului.
Scanarea s-a realizat cu scanerul manual MHT Artec și scanerul zSnapper de la Vialux.
Suprafețele mesh ale corpului s-au editat cu programul GeomagicStudio. După elaborarea
protocolului de scanare acesta a fost utilizat pentru scanarea unui bărbat paraplegic, cu vârsta de
54 de ani. Imaginea 3D a subiectului masculin paraplegic a fost utilizată ca suport pentru
obținerea informațiilor (postură și mărimi antropometrice) în proiectarea virtuală reperelor unui
model de pantaloni.
Figura 1: Schema poziționării
dispozitivelor în procesul de scanare
Figura 2: Procedura
de scanare pentru
peroana paraplegică
Figura 3: Corpul virtual obținut înainte și după
procesarea suprafeței de mesh
În activitatea de proiectarea virtuală 3D se utilizează corpuri în poziție ortostatică. Pentru
a putea realiza proiectarea unui model de pantaloni a fost necesar să se elaboreze un corp virtual,
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care poate avea diferite poziții dinamice (elaborarea acestui corp s-a realizat în programul 3ds
Max, prin prelucrarea imaginii unui corp scanat în poziție ortostatică cu un șablon cinematic.
(Figura 4).
Corpul 3D cinematic a fost animat pentru a obține diferite poziții dinamice ale corpului,
cu diferite unghiuri între coapsă și gambă (Figura 5). Cu programul DesignConcept -Lectra s-a
proiectat 3D un model de pantaloni, pentru o anumită postură a corpului (trunchiul înclinat cu
130° și unghiul dintre axa coapsei cu cea a gambei de 130° (Figura 6). Modelele au fost
aplatizate și analizate în continuare în procesul de proiectare 3D (Figura 7).
Figura 4: Model cinematic
obținut prin fuziunea de date
scanate cu un template
cinematic
Figura 5: Diferite poziții
ale parții de jos a
trunchiului pentru corpul
cinematic obținut
Figura 6: Model pantalon 3D Figura 7: Repere 2D
aplatizate
Simularea modului de așezare al prototipului de pantaloni pe manechinul virtual s-a realizat
folosind sistemul Lectra- Modaris V8R1. Forma 2D a reperelor modelului proiectat a fost
analizată pentru o anumită poziție dinamică a corpului, corespunzătoare poziției unei persoane
paraplegice. În această poziție s-a constatat ca lungimea turului este insuficientă, de aceea se
impune o majorare a lungimii acestei linii de contur (Figura 8).
Figura 8: Simularea virtuală a tiparelor obținute din
aplatizarea modelului 3D
Figura 9: Simularea virtuală a tiparelor de baza ale
modelului de pantalon
Analizând modul de așezare al pantalonului pe mijlocul feței, se observă ca lungimea
pantalonului pe linia sa de mijloc este prea mare (pantalonul formează pliuri, care determină
senzația de disconfort). În zona genunchilor, modelul de pantaloni necesită o suplimentare pentru
a asigura confortul la purtare (acest lucru se observă din analiza hărții tensiunilor dezvoltate în
produs la îmbrăcarea pe corp). În continuare un modelul de pantaloni 2D este proiectat pentru
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mărimea 42, iar simularea virtuală a modului de așezare a fost făcută pe aceeași poziție dinamică
pe care a fost construit și modelul de pantaloni 3D (Figura 9).
Analizând harta tensiunilor dezvoltate în produs la îmbrăcarea pe corp (spațiu virtual) se
stabilesc care sunt prelucrările care trebuie aplicate reperelor de produs: scurtarea lungimii
pantalonilor pe linia de mijloc față, majorarea lungimii liniei turului (spate) și eliminarea pliurilor
de la spatele pantalonilor .
Formele reperelor modelului proiectat au fost modificate și noul prototip a fost verificat în
spațiul virtual. (Figura 10 - 11). Noul prototip are o așezare mai bună pe corp, mai ales în zona
taliei. Faldul care se formează la nivelul taliei are o adâncime mică și acesta poate fi eliminat prin
modul de finisare a terminației superioare a pantalonilor (bandă elastică). Numărul de pliuri de la
partea posterioară a produsului s-a redus considerabil.
Figura 10: Modificarea tiparului de bază a pantalonilor Figura 11: Simularea virtuală a modelului de pantalon
modificat
Figura 12: Modelul de pantaloni pentru
bărbați modificat
Figura 13: Persoană paraplegică purtînd modelul de pantaloni modificat
Folosind dimensiunile manechinului scanat al persoanei paraplegice, un model de
pantaloni bărbătești mărimea 52 a fost proiectat și modificat. Etapele de modelare care au fost
aplicate reperelor primului prototip virtual au fost folosite și pentru modelul de pantaloni pentru
bărbați (Figura 12). Modelul nou creat a fost încercat de către utilizatorul de scaun cu rotile
(Figura 13).
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4. Rezultate și concluzii Pentru atingerea obiectivului tezei a fost necesar să se studieze informațiile existente în
literatura de specialitate (rezultate ale unor cercetări anterioare) privind forma, funcționalitatea
produselor vestimentare și caracteristicile materiilor prime care sunt recomandate a fi folosite
pentru fabricarea unor produse destinate persoanelor paraplegice (ca de exemplu pantaloni).
Cercetările antropometrice desfășurate ca urmare cerințelor industriei de confecții, standardele
existente, sunt valabile pentru persoane considerate normale. Pentru persoane paraplegice nu
există rezultate ale unor cercetări antropometrice sau standarde.
În prima parte a capitolului 4 se descrie o procedură de scanare a corpului paraplegic
elaborată prin teste succesive de scanare. Scanarea s-a realizat cu scanerul manual MHT Artec și
scanerul zSnapper de la Vialux, rezultînd un protocol de scanare al unei persoane paraplegice. În
a doua parte a capitolului, s-au proiectat diferite poziții dinamice ale corpului uman folosind un
corp cinematic, care s-au utilizat mai departe în construcția modelului de pantaloni 3D. S-a
demonstrat utiliatea unui corp cinematic pentru a obține diferite poziții dinamice al corpului pâna
la cea specifică unui utilizato de scaun cu rotile.
În capitolul 5 se descrie metodologia de proiectare 3D al unui model de pantaloni (prototip),
cu siluetă ajustată și apoi este analizat modul de așezare al produsului pe corp. Forma reperelor
produsului proiectat a fost modificată pentru a asigura confort la purtarea de către o persoană
paraplegică (metoda 2D-to-3D). Prin simularea virtuală s-a verificat echilibrul produsului pe
corp, respectiv corespondența dimensională produs vestimentar- corp uman, s-au stabilit dacă
mai sunt de introdus alte modificări și în final s-a validat soluția de proiectare elaborată.
5. Contribuția tezei În urma cercetărilor și concluziilor prezentei teze, principalele contribuții pentru
cercetarea designului îmbrăcămintei 3D sunt:
- stadiul actual al cercetărilor antropometrice ("state of art") pentru persoane care stau în
scaun cu rotile (țara noastră și pe plan mondial)
- analiza problemelor medicale și sociale ale utilizatorilor de scaune cu rotile,
- studiul cerințelor și nevoilor vestimentare pentru persoane care stau în scaun cu rotile,
- utilitatea folosirii modulelor 3D ale sistemelor CAD pentru proiectarea formei reperelor
din structura unui produs vestimentar,
- elaborarea unui protocol de scanare al persoanelor care stau în scaun cu rotile,
- proiectarea unui șablon cinematic în diferite poziții dinamice până la obținerea unei
imagini cât mai fidele a unui corp paraplegic în postura lui obișnuită, care se poate utiliza
în proiectarea 3D a unui model de pantaloni,
- elaborarea unei metode de proiectare 3D a unui model de pantaloni, cu siluetă
semiajustată pentru persoane paraplegice.
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6. Cercetări viitoare Prin metodele dezvoltate descrise în această teză pot fi elaborate direcții de cercetare
ulterioară:
- pentru metoda de scanare, se poate stabili un protocol specific în funcție de categoria de
dizabilitate a persoanei care să permită acuratețe în obținerea informațiilor necesare unor
studii avansate de antropometrie,
- protocolul de cercetare se poate aplica și pentru proiectarea 3D a altor categorii de
produse destinate persoanelor paraplegice,
- stabilirea unor structuri optime de straturi, caracteristici de țesături/ materii prime și
materiale care sunt potrivite pentru fabricația produselor destinate persoanelor
paraplegice,
- elaborarea unor soluții de modelare tehnică a reperelor de pantaloni pe partea anterioară
sau posterioară, în corelație cu proprietățile de elasticitate, desime, rigiditate ale
materialului folosit la fabricarea produsului în scopul asigurării confortului la purtare.
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Abstract
Chapter 1: Introduction to the research
1.1 Introduction Disability represents the incapacity or limitation to perform certain activities or
behaviours connected with every-day life normal actions. The disability may result from certain
impairments, which can originate from a series of physical, cognitive, mental, intellectual,
sensory or mental issues.
Disabled people represent 15% of the world’s population and across EU the disability is
about 10% from the whole population, with a big probability of going up in the next years [1]. In
Romania at the end of 2018 there were reported 812,594 disabled people, almost 4% from the
entire population [2]. It can be understand that regarding the disability aspect, this important and
numerous group of people are in high demand of personalized and functional products on the
market.
Regarding the clothing products, disabilities often lead to special functional requirements,
which increase the necessity of physical and psychological comfort.
Most of the garments for disabled people that exist now on the market don’t have fabrics
adapted to the individual’s medical problems and also, the products don’t have a suitable pattern
construction for the atypical body, posture or movements of the wearer. It is necessary a bigger
attention upon the research and development of functional clothing for disabled people in order
to improve the functionality, attractiveness, ease in use and affordability of the clothing products.
1.2 Research objective
1.2.1. Challenges in the researched area
In order to develop a customized product that can fulfil the necessities of a target market
is necessary an extensive research about the characteristics of the studied group, especially when
this includes people with a variety of physical abilities. A market research in this matter can be
more complex and challenging because of the variety of needs and characteristics of the disabled
persons. Clothing needs of the people that are living with a sort of disability are not being met;
there is an absence of appropriate clothing which hinder this group of people in having normal
social activities and relationships, jobs or everyday life activities [3,4].
The variety of disabilities which have special design requirements for clothing is big and
each one needs to be studied carefully. The present research was focused on the persons who
suffer from paraplegia and are using a wheelchair for the locomotion process.
The wheelchair users are very sensitive to the clothes they are wearing regarding
functional and design characteristics. They have to take into account every time their health
problems (e.g. skin fragility) and the fitting of the clothes on their body which is most of the
times problematic due to their body shape and sitting. The main attributes the wheelchair users
are searching for in clothing are the functionality, attractiveness, ease in use, affordability and
safety.
1.2.2. Objectives and structure of the work
The main objective of this research activity consists in implementing 3D CAD
technologies in designing trousers for wheelchair users. The design of any type of garment has at
the base information about the shape and dimensions of the body of the wearer. There are two
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methods of human body measuring: direct methods (contact methods) and indirect methods (non-
contact methods). For this research the indirect method – 3D scanning- was used for better
understanding the shape and dimensions of a wheelchair users’s body. Multiple scans trials were
done using a hand-held scanner and a whole-body scanner. The research was developed further
with the animation of a kinematic body model. The animation of a 3D body in a virtual
environment can give information about the body shape in certain movements or positions. By
doing the virtual animation, different 3D body models in several positions were obtained, from
standing to sitting. Further, 3D-to-2D and 2D-to-3D prototyping was used to create a trouser
model that can fit to the shape and dimensions of a wheelchair user. 3D virtual simulation was
applied to test the applicability of the pattern modifications and in the end a trouser prototype
was designed and tried-on. The reason for choosing the trousers for this research was the interest
in solving the problems a wheelchair user has while sitting with this piece of garment. In
comparison with a garment for the upper part of the body, the trousers are involving some
problems that require more complex pattern modification to solve the fitting issues.
The thesis is structured in six Chapters:
- Chapter 1 and 2, with the introductive part and the analysis of paraplegic people
regarding their disability and their clothing needs;
- In Chapter 3, it is gathered information about the functional clothing for paraplegic
people and the existing literature on measuring techniques, virtual body animation,
scanning procedures and 2D or 3D prototyping of clothing for wheelchair users;
- Chapter 4, the experimental data of this research regarding the scanning procedure and
3D body animation;
- Chapter 5, with the 3D-to-2D and 2D-to-3D trouser prototyping, and
- Chapter 6 with the general conclusions, the thesis contribution in the domain and the
future possible research regarding the thesis subject.
Chapter 2: Disabilities: Definitions and clothing needs
2.1. Disability
Disability is defined from the context of health experience, by the International
Classification of Impairments, Disabilities, and Handicaps (Geneva 1980), as a limited
participation in daily living activities that can come from a physical or psychological impairment
[5].
Taking to another level of understanding, with the development of International
Classification of Functioning, Disability and Health (Geneva 2001), the World Health
Organization takes the meaning of disability to a wider caption, covering impairments, activity
limitations, and participation restrictions [6], putting together aspects of both health aspects and
the social model problems. The medical aspect of disability refers directly to the health problems
of an individual which can be caused by different diseases, traumas or other causes, while the
social model takes disability into a section of a socially created problem which takes it further
into a problem of integration of individuals into society. In conclusion, disability embodies more
than one medical attribute, but a complex set of environmental factors [7].
2.2. Clothing for persons with special needs Clothing for disabled people should follow the next requirements [16,39]:
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- to match the disability and keep the handicap under control by adequate patterns and fasteners –
posture matching, adequacy to joint mobility,
- to encourage independence in movement while wearing, the independence while using the
fasteners and ensure a high level of comfort and safety – ease of use, wear /tear resistance,
- to have an easy maintenance with fabrics easy to wash and iron - repellence / stain -resistance,
- to be made from fabrics that will not chafe or irritate the skin and assure good thermal isolation
- moisture management, perspiration control, thermal insulation,
- the fabric should be from natural fibres or treated with antibacterial solvents – anti-
microbial/bacterial requirements, and
- to provide a certain psychological comfort and self-confidence of the person wearing it.
2.3. Needs and demands of wheelchair users regarding clothing Paraplegia refers to an impairment or loss of motor and/or sensory function in thoracic
(T2-T12), lumbar (L1-L5), or sacral (S1-S5) segments of the spinal cord [10]. It can affect the
functions of the trunk, legs and some of the pelvic organs but the upper part of the body and the
arms are not affected. It can be caused by damaging the spinal cord in accidents, in appearance of
tumours, tuberculosis, and transverse myelitis or it can have hereditary provenience.
Wheelchair users represent 1% of European population, nearly eight million people.
Because of their permanently or semi-permanently sitting position, the contact area has to carry
their body weight during long periods. The absence of muscle tone in their legs and the lack of
activity are reducing the natural body cushioning, it decreases the size in circumference of the
legs with a possible increase of the upper part of the body and makes their circulatory system less
efficient. The nerve spine being damaged, there is an absence of sensory feedback which makes
their skin tissue especially vulnerable to oedemas and ulcerations. Because of the prolonged time
in sitting position or even the incontinence problems, the moisture on the affected areas increases
which makes the skin even more sensitive. There are many aspects to understand that wheelchair
users are in a need of adaptive clothing [11].
Different aspects of the comfort that can be treated are thermal isolation and permeability,
tactile factors, usability, fitting, or hypoallergenic agents [16,6,42].
Chapter 3: Garment design methods for wheelchair users - a literature
review
3.1. Anthropometric measurements
The design of any type of garment product must be based on information about the shape
and dimensions of the body of the wearer. Anthropometry represents the study of measuring the
dimensions of the human body [13].
There are two methods of human body measuring: direct methods (contact methods) and
indirect methods (non-contact methods) [44,46,47]:
contact methods: ● traditional measuring tools
non-contact methods:● scanning or photogrammetry
13
3.2. Measurement techniques for wheelchair users
3.2.1. Traditional method
Anthropometric measurements of wheelchair users are used for designing their
occupational environments and products. Many of the existing studies in the literature regarding
their anthropometry are being done for the design of living, public or workplaces, with the
purpose of eliminating harmful and uncomfortable positions. The accessibility demands and the
special design recommendations are also being analysed [67,68,69,70]. Ergonomic studies for
wheelchair users are not enough to be used for the garment construction area, as the ergonomic
measurements are more related to the environment where the person is living. For the garment
construction, the measurements need to be taken directly on the body, but in this case, with the
person sitting in the wheelchair.
3.2.2. Three dimensional scanning procedure
Regarding the scanning procedure for wheelchair users, there are a couple of studies
where are analysed, most of the times on healthy peoples: how to obtain a useful 3D body model
in the sitting position, the necessary equipment and the scanning procedure that a disabled person
can follow. There is a certain interest to acquire an accurate 3D body model in a sitting position
for garment prototyping, as in the past years the industry for customized products tends to
develop, being more aware of the demands and necessities of disabled peoples.
For scanning the sitting position, several methods have been tested regarding the
necessary equipment, the scanning procedure or the posture of the body for the optimal gathering
of the scanning data [89,90,91].
3.2.3. Kinematic body model
An interesting approach in observing the changes in a human body in the sitting position
would be the animation of a kinematic body model in 3D programs. The field of application of
virtual human models is diverse. The adaption and individualization of human models can be
applied in areas like [96,97]: ergonomics, entertainment industry (e.g. film and video production,
games, sports), medical rehabilitation, product design (e.g. automotive industry, virtual clothing
construction and fitting), training through interactive simulation, and providing knowledge (e.g.,
museums, airports, websites).
A kinematic body model is the result of merging a scan data with a template model in
body animation programs with the help of defined landmarks. Within these animation programs,
the body motions can be controlled and it can be analysed the change of the body shape in
different motions [98,99].
3.3. Computer-aided design systems
Garment CAD technology represents the use of computer technology in designing
garment products [28]. Based on the importance of CAD technology in the garment industry, the
CAD technology was strongly studied until these days, much of research being made on garment
modelling and simulation, garment design, garment grading, as well as the existing of available
14
3D CAD systems for the clothing industry [119,120,121,122,123,124]. All of these reviews are
gathering information about virtual prototyping process, which can be approached from a 2D-to-
3D and 3D-to-2D technique.
The 2D design techniques are based on several sizing rules, using the measurements of
the standard body, and the conventional garment design method. The garment industry is based
on 2D patterns for product manufacturing but more recently the 3D virtual fit simulation started
to get into attention. The virtual fitting on 3D body models would be an important step for the
clothing industry to reduce the number of prototypes in garment development [119,129]. The
basic 2D patterns can be designed and later assembled through a virtual sewing procedure to
produce realistic draping simulation on a 3D mannequin [130,131,132].
3D virtual garment construction is a technique for the garment development that requires
the application of innovative CAD solutions. The objective of virtual prototyping is the
integration of garment characteristics, pattern cuts and fabric properties, to check the fitting on a
virtual body model [32]. In the 3D environment it is possible to modify the shape of the garments
and to apply certain fabric properties. 3D-to-2D technique is based on the development of 3D
human body measurements and modelling, 3D garment design on virtual body models, 3D
garment simulation, and 2D pattern generation from the designed 3D garment model [119,120].
3.3.1 Conventional garment construction for wheelchair users
In the process of creating customized garments for wheelchair users there are many
dimensional changes compared to a basic model that must be considered. There are several
studies focused on the pattern modifications for the lower and upper garments for this type of
clothing. Analysing these studies, the garments for the lower part of the body usually need
adaptation in length and waist area, the crotch was shortened in front and lengthened in the back
side, while for the waist there were added some extra darts to equilibrate the difference between
the hip area and the waistline in the sitting position [39]. Other modification necessary to apply
were the extension of the pants in length and width, knee-line reposition, and widening the sitting
crotch area [21]. Besides the pattern modification, the placement of the opening systems was
reconsidered, by adding special plackets on the sides, zippers to detach the crotch area or elastic
bands on the waist to facilitate the dressing and undressing [147,148]. Detachable legs in sections
or tight-fitting bottoms were also considered, with the usage of soft and water absorbent knitted
fabrics, fabrics made from a mix of synthetic and natural fibres, softer material at the backside
and flat and smooth seems [12]. The garments for the upper part of the body usually needed to
have reinforced back sleeves, longer back, shortened front, large armholes, the full sleeves
without cuffs and the centre front with placket easy to utilize. The elbow area needed more
lightness by using darts and pleats. There is still needed a special attention on the placement of
opening systems [42,89,147,148]. Besides the analysis of regular clothes, protective textiles also
caught the attention, protective pads or diapers for incontinence, protective clothing for wind and
rain being also important [41,147,149].
3.3.2. 3D virtual prototyping of garments for wheelchair users
For the research on virtual prototyping of garments for paraplegic people a series of
studies were made using 2D-to-3D technique. All researches were made using OptiTex 3D
[89,91,95]. The patterns [21] for basic trousers and blouse for a standing position were designed
15
and virtually simulated on a sitting body model. After this, according to the virtual measured
dimensions from the sitting body, the patterns were modelled and the new ones were virtually
simulated. The proposed modifications of the basic patterns were a first step to understand the
garment construction for a sitting position but the procedure is cumbersome and requires a
different approach. In [23] study were designed three garments for wheelchair users: a jacket, a
dress and a pair of trousers. The virtual prototype of the garments was made based on the virtual
measurements taken on the scan body of the disabled persons. After this, the virtual fit
simulation of the designed models was carried out for a standing and a sitting position. Doing
this comparison between the virtual fittings, it was possible to see what modifications are
necessary for the garments for a sitting position.
The presented literature on 3D scanning and virtual prototyping of garments for
wheelchair-users helped to have a basic idea about individualized functional garments from the
ergonomic point of view and to understand better the functional and aesthetical needs of
paraplegic people. There is still need for the improvement of the scanning procedure for the
sitting position, in order to obtain more data from the sitting area. This would be helpful in
obtaining better 3D body models for accurate virtual measurements and virtual prototyping of
garments. The virtual prototyping of the garments would be less time consuming if the 2D-3D
technique would be transformed to a 3D-2D technique, as it would be easier to see, from the
beginning, the necessary dimensional modifications for the basic patterns.
Therefore, the major lack of dimensional data for wheelchair users, necessary for the
garment construction, was the starting point of this research. The scanning procedure and the
virtual garment prototyping are proposed to be analysed in this research in order to obtain
improved results for this matter.
Chapter 4: Methodology establishment in current research
4.1. Research design, procedure and participants
With reference to the needs and demands of paraplegic people regarding clothing, in this
part of research was analysed the 3D scanning procedure and some computer simulation
techniques to see the possibility of using a kinematic body model in the virtual garment
prototype dedicated to wheelchair users.
All investigations were carried out at TU Dresden, Institute of Textile Machinery and
High Performance Material Technology (ITM), Germany. The scanning procedure of the
selected persons (two healthy and one paraplegic), was performed using the handheld MHT
scanner form Artec [45] and the body scanner zSnapper cart from Vialux [46]. Both scanners
were used for the scanning procedure in order to analyse the capacities these technologies have
in obtaining good scan data for virtual body models. The editing of the mesh surfaces of the
obtained scanned data was made in GeomagicStudio program from 3D Systems [47]. The
scanned image of the body was imported and animated in 3dsMax program from Autodesk [48]
with the purpose of obtaining different positions of the lower part of the body. This entire
procedure was important in the research area of trousers design for the sitting position that can
offer suitable ergonomic comfort for the wheelchair users.
The 3D scanning procedure was made on three participants, two healthy females, age 25
and 62 and one paraplegic male, age 54. The need of using healthy people in the first place was
16
necessary for the establishment of the scanning procedure for the sitting position and to select
devices that could help in the scanning process. The trials with the healthy participants helped to
understand better the usability and efficiency, both of the handheld and whole body scanner, the
methodology needed to be applied in order to obtain better data and better time managing, and
necessary devices possible to use in the scanning procedure of sitting position.
4.2. Three-dimensional scanning procedure
The starting point of the scanning procedure for the sitting position was to test the
usability and efficiency of Artec MHT handheld scanner to catch data from such a problematic
body posture. The tested person had to sit on a normal chair without a backseat, with the legs
fixed on the ground and bend knees. The arms had to be bended up from the elbow area so that
they don’t appear in the scan data for the lower part of the body. The scanned person had to wear
tight-fitting clothing for obtaining a realistic shape of the body. It was necessary to pinpoint
white clay markers on different locations of the body (Figure 4.1) in order to merge multiple
scanning in the next steps of data processing. The position being defined, multiple scan trials
were done starting from different sides and angles in order to see the best scanning procedure for
obtaining optimal data. The multiple scan trials revealed that it is difficult to scan a large area of
the body with a handheld scanner without obtaining overlapping images or double mesh layers
that would hinder the achievement of realistic and correct scan data. Because of that, it has been
decided to scan one leg to obtain better data for analyzing the missing parts in sitting posture.
The scan data was achieved and edited in ArtecStudio (Figure 4.2). The result is a polygonal
model that was saved as an .obj file for further mesh editing in GeomagicStudio (Figure 4.3).
The mesh editing process consisted in filling the missing holes, smoothening the mesh surface
and erasing the unnecessary parts. After the mesh processing, the leg was mirrored to have a full
lower part of the body that can be further used in 3D environments (Figure 4.4).
Figure 4.1: Scanning with
Artec MHT handheld scanner
Figure 4.2: Obtained
and edited scan data in
ArtecStudio
Figure 4.3: Obtained
virtual body model
before mesh processing
in GeomagicStudio
Figure 4.4: Obtained virtual
body model after mesh
processing
Based on the gained experience from the scanning procedure using a normal chair and
knowing what the difficult parts to scan are, the idea was to develop a special chair for better
results. The chair was made from transparent Plexiglas® that can allow for the scanner light
beams to reach the back side of the thighs and buttocks. Only a small area from the centre of the
chair table, that is made from a thicker Plexiglas® used to fix the leg of the chair, doesn’t allow
for the scanner to take data. The design included also a seat-back useful in sustaining the
17
paraplegic’s body during the scanning procedure. Knowing that the scanning time with
zSnapper® scanner takes less than one minute for the entire body, the designed chair was fixed
on a plate that could be set on the turntable of Vialux equipment. The scanner cart was positioned
to catch data from the rotating chair and the hand scanner was placed on the ground at 50 cm
distance from the backside of the turntable, with the angular field of view towards the buttocks.
Both scanners were turned on in the same time, Vialux scanner catching data from the entire
body and Artec scanner from the lower part of the body (Figure 4.6). The person had to sit on the
chair with the legs placed on the turntable, leaned on the back seat and hands raised up above the
back of the neck. The subject had to wear light colored clothes and clay markers were fixed on
the body with the scope of merging together the data from both scanners (Figure 4.5). The
obtained scan data were further processed in ArtecStudio and GeomagicStudio.
Figure 4.5: Scheme for scanner positioning in the scanning
procedure
Figure 4.6: Scanning procedure with
ArtecMHT and VialuxzSnapper® cart
The body scanner form Vialux proved to have difficulties to catch data from the areas
where the light beams couldn’t reach directly. There were missing parts from the top of the
thighs, back legs and buttocks. The MHTArtec scanner successfully catches data from the
buttocks side. The processing of the data was made in ArtecStudio. The two scans were aligned
by fixing a set of point pairs between them (Figure 4.7). The result of the alignment (Figure 4.8)
shows that the scanning method is accurate in catching data with the same precision with two
different scanners in the same time. An .obj file was saved for further mesh processing in
GeomagicStudio. The fusion method between two scan data obtained with two different scanners
proved to be not only feasible but also made it possible to obtain a 3D body model in the sitting
posture with less missing areas from the buttocks and back area of the thighs (Figure 4.9). With
the help of these new existing scanned areas, the buttocks can be more easily repaired to follow a
realistic body shape of the sitting posture (Figure 4.10).
Figure 4.7: Fusion between Figure 4.8: Figure 4.9: Obtained 3D body Figure 4.10: Obtained virtual
18
the scans obtained from
Vialux and Artec scanners
Alignment
result between
the two scans
model in GeomagicStudio body model after mesh
processing
4.3. Scanning procedure for a wheelchair user
The method established in this research proved to be efficient in obtaining data and low-
time consuming. The first purpose was to establish a better method by which data from the lower
part of the body in sitting posture can be obtained. The second purpose was to obtain a good
timing while scanning so that a disabled person wouldn’t be kept for a long time in a special
position. If the first trial with the handheld scanner gave an overall view of what capturing data
from the sitting posture involves, the procedure of capturing data with both scanners proved to be
an important step in the development of proper equipment possible to use in this case. Having the
developed special chair and knowing from previous trials what is the best technique to catch data
in a short time, it was possible to make a scan trial with a wheelchair user, in order to test the
usability of the new chair in this special case, and the possibility to scan the paraplegic user
(Figure 4.11).
The first step was to see if a wheelchair user can transfer himself from his chair to the
turntable. The maneuver did not bring any problem as long as the chair is stable; he can move by
himself easily and fast. The second step was to see if a paraplegic person can maintain the
established posture for the scanning period, sit leaned against the seat back and keep the hands
over the back of the neck. Having the seat back of the chair to support him, the posture that he
had to maintain for less than one minute did not create any problems to him. Because of the
incapacity to maintain his legs in a proper position for the scanning process, it was necessary to
use a tape to keep them in a fixed position (Figure 4.11). The procedure being established, he had
to wear tight-fitting and light colored clothes to obtain a proper shape of the body during the
scanning procedure. The scan data obtained with Vialux, and Artec scanners were merged
together and saved for the mesh repairing process in Geomagic (Figure 4.12). After the mesh
processing, a 3D body model in the polygonal phase of a paraplegic person was obtained (Figure
4.13).
Figure 4.11: Scanning
procedure for a wheelchair
user
Figure 4.12: Obtained 3D body model
in GeomagicStudio Figure 4.13: Obtained virtual body model
after mesh processing
19
The effectiveness of Artec and Vialux scanners used in the same time proved to be a first
step in gathering more data from the buttocks and thighs area. The possibility of merging
multiple scan data in one single 3D model using ArtecStudio was also important for the final
result. In the end, GeomagicStudio proved to have important tools for easy and quick mesh
processing. The faced problems in the body scanning for the sitting posture could not be yet fully
solved, but the idea of the transparent chair and the combination of multiple scanners is an
important step in gathering scan data in a more efficient way.
4.4. Body posture simulation using a kinematic template model
The objective of the virtual body simulation for this research was to analyse the
possibility to obtain a sitting 3D body model that could be used for the virtual development of
garments. The virtual prototyping of garments nowadays offers the opportunity to design
comfortable and functional clothing but the majority of the CAD systems are using, for the
pattern design and fit simulation, virtual body models with a standard body shape in standing
posture. One of the objectives of this research was to obtain a realistic virtual body model in
sitting posture, leaded to the possibility of using the 3D animation programs that can allow
obtaining different postures of a scan data from standard posture. In this part of research were
achieved different body postures of the lower part of the body, going from the standing position,
passing through different positioning angles, and ending with the sitting position. In order to
obtain an animable “kinematic body model”1, a scan data of a female person size 42 (Figure
4.14) was merged together with a “kinematic template model”2 developed in a previous research
[25] in 3dsMax program (Figure 4.15).
Figure 4.14: Female scan image size 42 Figure 4.15: Kinematic template
1used name for further explanations in this research regarding the merged data between the scan and the kinematic
template 2the template represents the designed kinematic human model in 3dsMax consisting of a skeleton, muscle system
and surface mesh
20
The entire procedure of adapting the kinematic template model to the scan object was
applied several times, with different scans in different sizes and different adjustment techniques,
so that an optimal kinematic body model can be obtained to be used further in the animation
process (Figure 4.16). From a variety of position sequences, a couple of them, with different
bending angles, were selected to be used further in the study of garment construction for the
sitting position.
Figure 4.16: Motion sequence of the kinematic body model
The selected bent positions of the lower part of the body were converted to
EditablePatch, which gives a smoother geometry for the mesh edges, and exported as .obj file
for 3DDesignConcept from Lectra (Figure 4.17). The exported positions were further used to
study the possibility of 3D construction of trousers. It can be seen that for the sitting position
there is no additional support for the sitting area that could offer a realistic body shape in this
particular case.
Figure 4.17: Sequence of different positions for the lower part of the body in 3D DesignConcept
Chapter 5: Virtual pattern making for wheelchair users
Over time, the clothing industry has switched from conventional pattern making on paper
to the CAD pattern making. As early mentioned, the clothing computer design systems can
include three integrated parts: 2D pattern designing, 3D garment construction and virtual try-on
for clothing simulation [49]. With the development of 3D CAD technologies, the idea of
21
designing a garment directly on a 3D body model comes as an innovative solution for garment
construction for people with certain disabilities. Few studies are analysing the 3D garment
construction for people with scoliosis [145,171,172]. When it comes to the virtual prototyping of
clothing for wheelchair users, the current literature is based on 2D-to-3D technique
[89,91,94,95]. All these studies approached the idea of garment-fitting for the wheelchair-users
by implementing CAD systems in the experimental methods regarding pattern modification.
With the purpose of finding an improved solution for the pattern modification, necessary to apply
for obtaining a good fitting of the garments on the body in a sitting posture, a 3D-to-2D
technique is described in the following chapter. The attempt to find a standard procedure for the
pattern modifications for trousers designed for wheelchair-users was also an objective in this part
of research.
5.1. 3D-to-2D virtual prototyping
The 3D-to-2D technique involves the construction of the garment directly on a virtual
body model in the 3D environment and then the 2D pattern pieces are generated by flattening the
created regions. First, construction lines defining the garment’s shape are drawn on the virtual
body model, then, 3D patterns are generated in accordance with the drawn regions. The obtained
3D pattern pieces are flattened into 2D patterns by applying a meshing process through a
mathematic algorithm, and finally the 2D patterns are ready to be used in the creation of the
garment model. The garment product that comes out from the 3D-to-2D technique follows the
silhouette and the measurements implemented in the 3D body model. In this way, the phase of
modifying a basic model in several steps until it matches the silhouette of the person is
eliminated and the time is reduced for the product development.
A 3D virtual construction of a tight-fitting trouser model was made using DesignConcept
from Lectra [54]. A tight-fitting garment follows closely the contour of the body. In order to find
a proper posture to obtain 2D patterns by applying the flattening procedure, many bending angles
for the knee and trunk area were analysed. Three different postures with different bending
degrees for the knees and trunk are detailed in Figure 5.1. First, the curves were drawn to define
the trouser model, secondly, the patterns were obtained by creating the mesh regions according to
the boundaries defined by the curves, and in the end the regions were flattened and 2D patterns
were obtained. It can be seen that a big bending degree doesn’t allow to obtain good 2D patterns
for the front side hip and back knee area, as the software cannot transform the same dimensional
surface from 3D to 2D (Figure 5.1 a. and b.). A posture with a lower bending degree is more
appropriate to obtain good 2D patterns (Figure 5.1 c.).
Taking into account the results from the pattern development with different bending
angles, a posture with 90° trunk bending and 110° knee bending was chosen to create a tight-
fitting trouser prototype (Figure 5.2). It was kept the same bending degree in the trunk area as in
the sitting posture but the in the front hip area were the flattening procedure failed, the region
was divided in four. The bending degree for the knee was increased from the 90° in the sitting
posture to 110° to allow the designing of a pattern to define the back of the knee. The flattening
procedure was successful for each 3D pattern. The patterns for the front side hip were merged
together to avoid an unnecessary seam line. The 2D pieces were converted in .dxf files and
printed for sewing the trouser prototype which was tried-on by a person to check the fitting on
the body.
22
a. b. c.
Figure 5.1: Tight-fitting trouser model on: a - Posture with 90°knee and trunk bending degree, b - 110° knee
bending degree and 90° trunk bending degree, and c - 130° knee bending degree and 100° trunk bending degree
Considering the functionality demands of paraplegics for the comfort of garment
products, it would be necessary to avoid thick and hard seams, especially in areas exposed to
high levels of pressure, like back and buttocks, which can lead to pressure sores and skin
wounds. Knowing this problem, it was necessary to design a new tight-fitting trouser model by
reducing the seam areas in the patterns for the buttocks and thighs (Figure 5.3). The bending
degree for the trunk area was raised to from 90° to 130° and for the knees from 110° to 130°. The
new posture was chosen to design the 3D trouser model with less seam lines and to make the
flattening procedure feasible for obtaining good 2D patterns. Creating a trouser model with less
seam lines on the first posture with 90° and 110° bending degree was not practicable to obtain
good 2D patterns from the flattening procedure as the curvature level of the body was too big.
a. b. c. d.
Figure 5.2: Tight-fitting trouser model on a defined bent posture a - 90° trunk bending and 110° knee bending, b –
designed trouser model, c – 2D patterns and d – modified patterns
The new tight-fitting trouser model has for the back side only two patterns, being divided
only on the knee area, where the fabric needs to be reduced. The front side has three patterns,
being necessary to create a dividing area for the knee, where the fabric needs to have a bigger
allowance.
23
a. b. c.
Figure 5.3: Tight-fitting trouser model with less seam line areas on a defined bent posture a - 130° trunk bending
and 130° knee bending, b – designed trouser model, and c - 2D flattened patterns
Making a comparison with the first patterns, there can be seen that even if the bending
degree was smaller, there were still obtained the necessary modifications for the interest areas,
buttocks, crotch and knees. The unnecessary seam lines were in this way excluded and the
information about the dimensional change for the specific areas still obtained.
5.2. Fit simulation for the tight-fitting trouser model
With the purpose to verify the fitting of the patterns obtained from 3D-to-2D technique, it
was done further a virtual fit simulation on a 3D body model. For the obtained 2D patterns in the
3D-to-2D methodology, the virtual fit simulation was done, in this part of research, using
ModarisV8R1 program.
For the trouser simulation on the mannequin, an interactive prepositioning of the patterns
was necessary (Figure 5.4). There can be seen from the fit simulation (Figure 5.5) that the
patterns from the back side don’t fit in a good way. The reason is that in the 3D-2D flattening
procedure the mesh surface in the curved area can suffer some modifications because of the
inaccuracies in flattening such curved pattern pieces. The differences between the 3D surface and
2D surface can vary accordingly to the level of the curvature.
Figure 5.4: Interactive preposition of the patterns Figure 5.5: Simulated trousers
24
In order to see if an ease value would solve the problem for the 3D trouser model in the
virtual simulation process, the 2D patterns were modified further by increasing the width. The
patterns were modified following the dimensions of a basic trouser size 42 (168-96-104)3, with
the waist girth of 80 cm, knee girth of 25 cm and the trouser hem width of 22 cm.
Figure 5.6: Virtual simulation of the modified 3D trouser
model with fabric ease distribution
The modified patterns were
stitched together in Modaris and after
this exported in Modaris 3D. The seam
lines were defined, the same fabric was
chosen and after the preposition of the
patterns, from the Assembly command
bar the Simulate process was applied.
Although there was obtained a better
fit, the knee line was properly situated
and the ease distribution showed a good
fitting for comfort, but the problem
with the back side was still not solved
(Figure 5.6). That means the missing
part from the flattened pattern for the
back side could not be corrected only
by modifying the ease in width of the
3D model.
Analysing the functional traits of the obtained 2D patterns it can be seen that the trousers for the
bent posture needs the following modifications for a better fitting on the body:
- a bigger back crotch length to cover properly the back side, so, it was necessary to
measure the back crotch length for this position to be used in the pattern construction
process,
- the length for the front crotch had to be shortened to offer a proper fitting in the waist
line,
- the fabric from the back knee area had to be reduced to avoid the excess of folds that
could bother the skin, and
- the fabric for the front knee needed more allowance to offer a good comfort in the sitting
posture.
Although it offers good information about the pattern modification, the 3D-to-2D
technique cannot be used without modifications to obtain directly tight-fitting trousers for a bent
position because of the flattening process error. Therefore, the fitting traits from the 3D trouser
model were further analysed to see if there is a possibility to obtain customized loose-fitting
trousers by applying the modifications resulted from the 3D-to-2D technique.
5.3. 2D-3D virtual prototyping
As stated before, 2D-to-3D virtual prototyping involves the 3D simulation of 2D
designed patterns. In this manner, the patterns are designed at the beginning in the conventional 3 168 - body height, 96 - breast girth, 104 - hip girth
25
way in CAD programs and after this are imported in the 3D simulation programs. A 2D basic
trouser model was designed following the pattern construction specifications of size 42. The
patterns were further modified following the changes from the flattened patterns of the 3D
trouser model. The fitting, of both the basic trouser and the modified one, was analysed for the
bent posture.
5.3.1. The construction of basic trouser patterns and fit simulation
Figure 5.7: Front and back basic
patterns for women trousers (size
42)
The 2D construction of the basic patterns for the
women trousers size 42 (the size of the scan data that was
used to obtain in the animation program different positions of
the lower part of the body) was done following the
measurements for the construction of ladies' outerwear based
on the DOB size charts of the DOB - Verband, Cologne
Edition 1995, using Modaris program from Lectra. The
needed line segments, curves or circles were calculated using
the specific mathematical formulations from the construction
specifications chart, defining body dimensions like inseam or
side-seam length, crotch length, waist or hip line etc. After
completing the entire network of necessary lines for the
patterns, the front and back pieces were extracted (Figure 5.7)
and used further for the virtual fit simulation.
To verify the correctness of the obtained 2D basic patterns, the virtual fit simulation was
done on the standing posture obtained in 3dsMax (Figure 5.8). The fitting result showed that the
obtained trouser model was suitable for the standing posture. Next, the fit simulation of the basic
trouser was made on the bent position with a bending angle in the knees and trunk area of 130°.
From the virtual fit result (Figure 5.9) it can be seen that a basic trouser, in a bent position of the
body, suffers some fit modifications. The back side of the body remains uncovered and the front
waist line of the trousers goes upper than the natural waist line. In the back side of the knees
some extra folds are appearing. All of these aspects would cause discomfort for a wheelchair user
that spends all time sitting.
26
Figure 5.8: Fit simulation of basic trousers on a
standing position – front, side and back views
Figure 5.9: Fit simulation of basic trousers on a bent
position with 130° bending degree for the knees and trunk
– front, side and back views
5.3.2. Modification of the basic trouser patterns
According to the results from the fit simulation it was concluded that the basic patterns
must be modified in the back area by extending the crotch.
Next, the fitting traits from the 3D trouser model were analysed to see if there is a
possibility to obtain customized loose-fitting trousers by applying the modifications resulted
from the 3D-to-2D technique. The basic patterns were further modified following the changes
from the flattened patterns of the 3D trouser model. For the back side pattern, the dimension of
the crotch length was increased with 4 cm and the dart was closed to avoid unnecessary seam
lines. The pattern was divided in the knee area to reduce the fabric for the knee back line with 6
cm. For the front side pattern, the crotch length was reduced with 8 cm and for the knee area it
was given allowance by creating two darts of 1.5 cm.
The procedure that was done to transform the patterns for the basic trousers followed
logical and calculated steps. The new model of trousers combines the traits of a loose-fitting
trouser with the shape and dimensional characteristics from the tight-fitting trouser model
(Figure 5.10 and 5.11).
27
Figure 5.10: Back view for the three pattern models
Figure 5.11: Front views for the three pattern models
5.3.3. Fit simulation of the modified basic trousers
To verify the correctness of the modified trouser model it was necessary to make also a
virtual fit simulation. Analysing the obtained fit result (Figure 5.12), it can be seen that the new
trouser model had a good fitting for the waist area. The back side was covered and the front waist
line had a good position to offer comfort for the bent body position. The small fold that appears
in the back waistline can be adjusted with an elastic waist band that in the simulation process was
not designed. The modification of the pattern in the back knee area reduced the number of fabric
folds. From the fabric ease distribution (Figure 5.13) it can be seen that the trouser has a good
fitting degree. The part of the waistline and crotch area with an ease allowance of -0.43 cm is
offering balance for the trouser to fit on the body. Going down from the crotch area, the ease
allowance increases, offering comfort to the body.
Figure 5.12: Fit simulation of the modified basic trouser Figure 5.13: Fabric ease distribution for
the modified basic trouser
28
5.4. Designing a pair of trousers for a man wheelchair-user
The next step was to take a basic trouser model for men and to apply the pattern
modifications which were made in the case of the women trousers. By comparing the obtained
body measurements for the wheelchair user for the hip area with the size chart SizeGermany of
the dimensional specifications for clothing designed for men, a basic trouser model size 52
(Figure 5.14) was created and further modified (Figure 5.15) so that the prototype can be tried-on
by the wheelchair-user. Taking measurements of the body of the wheelchair user, it was
concluded that the knee line has to be lowered with 3 cm for a better fitting on the body.
Figure 5.14: Back and front patterns for a
man trouser model, size 52
Figure 5.15: Modified patterns for the men trouser
model
So, on size 52 patterns, the length of the basic trouser was lowered with 3 cm from the
knees down. The obtained patterns were further printed, prepared for sewing and then try on by
the wheelchair user (Figure 5.16, Figure 5.17).
For the trouser prototype it was chosen a zipper with the same length as the front crotch,
so that the dressing process can be easier. For the waistband it was chosen an elastic tape to fix
the trouser on the body and to prevent the slipping when the person has to move from the chair.
According to the discussions with the wheelchair-user, the trouser prototype was fitting in a good
way, following his demands regarding fit comfort. Because of the conformation of his body, with
a more prominent belly, he said he prefers the front waist lower with 2 cm, but it was not a big
inconvenient for him. This aspect cannot be valid for all the wheelchair-users, as it depends on
their particular preferences and body morphology. The back was fully covered, and the knee line
was fitting well, with reduced folds for the back knee. The fact that the trousers were loose-
fitting was from his point of view a good aspect, as it can hide the deformity of the atrophied
legs.
29
Figure 5.16: Modified trouser prototype size 52
Figure 5.17: Wheelchair-user wearing the modified trouser model size 52
When it comes to the used fabric, the person said he prefers and uses for daily living,
jeans trousers made from 100% cotton, as it lets his skin to breath properly and the fabric has a
lower elasticity level to help him move when he grab his legs from one side to another.
30
Following this request, a pair of jeans was designed following the same modification rules, with
a fabric of 100% cotton composition (Figure 5.18).
Figure 5.18: Wheelchair-user wearing jeans model size 52
5.5. Conclusions The main purpose in analysing the 3D design method was to implement the efficiency of
3D CAD programs for the development of functional trousers for wheelchair-users. The 3D-to-
2D method proved to be successful in obtaining important information about the dimensional
changes a pair of trousers for sitting position should have. Designing the 3D tight-fitting trouser
model gave the opportunity to analyse the modifications necessary for the patterns of the basic
loose-fitting trouser model. After the modifications of the patterns for the basic trousers size 42,
the virtual fit simulation demonstrated that the applied changes improved the fitting of the
trousers on the bent posture. With the positive results from the virtual fitting of the modified
basic trouser for women, it was necessary further to create a prototype that can be tried by a
wheelchair-user. The modifications applied on the trouser model for women proved to be
relevant for the men trouser also, with just some small personal notifications from the
wheelchair-user, regarding his personal body traits. Evaluating the fitting results from both
trouser models, it can be concluded that the pattern modification method is valid to obtain
functional trousers for paraplegics. A further research can be conducted to establish a standard
pattern design method to create functional trousers for this group of people, for different body
types and sizes.
31
Chapter 6: General conclusions and future work
6.1. Results of the experimental studies
The presented research started with a detailed literature research in the field of garment
design for wheelchair users. Analysing the needs and requirements these persons have regarding
clothing based on their health problems, we can see a considerable demand for functional traits in
the clothing design. Different pattern modifications and special fabric properties are requested in
order to adapt to the needs of wheelchair users. The construction of any clothing product is
based on accurate anthropometric measurements of the body. If, for healthy people the gathering
of anthropometric data has long been studied and many standards are defined, we can see (from
the existing literature) that there is a lack of information regarding the collection of
anthropometric data for wheelchair users. Trials using 3D scanning procedure were made but
much more research is needed until a standard methodology can be applied to obtain correct 3D
measurements. The existing studies regarding clothing design for wheelchair users are also in the
early stages. Although there are described some aspects of the pattern modifications and fabric
properties that can be applied to obtain adapted clothing products for their special body
requirements, the proposed methods still need further research in order to obtain a fixed
methodology for the pattern modification process. In conclusion, the chosen subject for the thesis
is topical and reliable in accordance with the research necessities of the functional clothing
requirements for wheelchair users.
With the results from the theoretical research, the steps to be followed for the
experimental part were established:
the selection of the garment product to be analysed in accordance with the wheelchair
user’s requirements – the attention went on researching the special traits the trousers need
to adapt to the sitting position of the wheelchair user,
the possibility to obtain information about the body shape and dimensions of a wheelchair
user in a 3D environment – it was applied the 3D scanning procedure and 3D body
animation,
virtual prototyping of a tight-fitting trouser model in a 3D environment using information
from the scanning and animation procedures,
2D prototyping of a loose-fitting trouser model using information from the 3D design
method,
virtual simulation of the obtained trouser models, and
the development of a trouser prototype that was tried-on by a wheelchair user.
The experimental research was divided in two major parts: the anthropometric research
and the virtual prototyping research.
Chapter 4 describes the protocol establishment for the anthropometric research
concerning the scanning procedure and virtual body simulation. The first part of the chapter
describes the applied scanning procedure. It was analysed the possibility to obtain a 3D body
model in the sitting position. Both handheld and whole-body scanners were used in several
scanning trials in order to define a scanning technique useful to collect data from the problematic
areas of the body. It was important that this technique to be applicable also for wheelchair users.
The described method is an important improvement in obtaining scan data for the realisation of a
32
body model for virtual garment construction and a big step in achieving a standard method for
gathering anthropometric measurements using scanning procedure on wheelchair users. In the
second part of the chapter it was studied the possibility of using a kinematic body model to
obtain different body positions of the lower part of the body, useful for the virtual garment
construction. Although it was proven that the sitting position is not feasible in following realistic
body shape, the other obtained body positions were analysed and concluded to be usable as
virtual body models.
Chapter 5 describes the implementation of 3D programs in designing a trouser prototype.
Both 3D-to-2D and 2D-to-3D design methods are used. The 3D-to-2D-to-3D method is used to
create a tight-fitting trouser model which was necessary to analyze the modifications the patterns
of the trouser are suffering in different positions of the body. Following the modifications from
the 3D model, the 2D-to-3D method was used to create a loose-fitting trouser model that can be
worn by a wheelchair user on a daily basis. Virtual fit simulation was used for testing the
accuracy of the designed models. The positive results of the virtual fit simulation end up with the
creation of a trouser prototype destined for wheelchair users, thus validating the method used.
6.2 Contribution of the thesis
Following the research and the conclusions of the present thesis, the main contributions
for the 3D clothing design research can be reviewed in the next final statements:
the literature review reveals the present stage, until this moment, of the existing studies
regarding clothing design for wheelchair users,
the thesis identifies and describes in a detailed way the medical and social problems of
wheelchair users due to their disability,
the needs and demands of wheelchair users regarding clothing are closely analysed and
described,
the research is emphasising the importance of 3D CAD programs implementation in the
garment construction in the clothing industry,
for the scanning procedure, a protocol was established and validated,
for the virtual body animation, it is demonstrated that a kinematic template in a virtual
environment can maintain the same shape and dimensions as the adapted scan data; it is
shown that in the animation process, the kinematic body model keeps the shape of the
real body, but for the sitting position is not possible due to the absence in the virtual
environment of the contact zone for the sitting area, which gives to the muscles another
shape than in the reality, and
the 3D design method for the tight-fitting trouser model and the virtual fit simulations are
leading to the development of a standardized pattern modification method for a classic
loose-fitting trouser for wheelchair users that can be applied both in the case of women
and men trousers.
33
6.3. Future work
In order to understand the trouser construction for wheelchair users, a lot of work using
3D CAD programs was done during this research. Detailed procedures were analyzed and
described in order to find the best possible solutions for obtaining anthropometric information for
wheelchair users and to create a standard method in designing trouser models for this group of
people. With the developed methods described in this thesis, new research directions can be
elaborated further:
for the scanning procedure, it can be established a specific protocol according to the
disability of the person, that can allow accuracy in obtaining information for advanced
anthropometric studies,
the research on 3D garment design for wheelchair users can be continued also with other
type of products, and
taking into account the importance of the comfort for the disabled people regarding their
clothing, the fabric properties is another aspect that has to be more researched in order to
improve and develop proper materials for this type of products,
development of technical design for the trouser model, correlated with the fabric
properties, like elasticity, density or stiffness, for the comfort of the product while
wearing.
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List of published papers 1. Aluculesei Bianca, Curteza Antonela - "Anthropometric measurements for disabled
people– an international review" – 15th AUTEX World Textile Conference 2015 June10-
12, 2015, Bucharest, ROMANIA, Proceedings, ISBN 978-606-685-276-0, Editura
PERFORMANTICA
2. Aluculesei Bianca, Curteza Antonela - "Anthropometric measurements for disabled
people– an international review", The XIX-th International Conference INVENTICA
2015, June 24th-26th, 2015, Iasi, Romania, Proceedings
3. Bianca Aluculesei, Antonela Curteza, Sybille Krzywinski, Ellen Wendt- "3D Body
Scanning in Sitting position – Processing techniques in mesh modeling and surface
reconstruction of human body", The XX-th International Exhibition of Inventics,
Research and Technological Transfer "INVENTICA 2016”, June 29th
– July 1th, 2016,
Iasi, Romania, Proceedings
4. Bianca Aluculesei, Sybille Krzywinski, Antonela Curteza and Christine Meixner –
“Animation of 3D human scanning data - extracting the sitting posture for a better
understanding of the garment development for wheelchair users.", 16th Romanian
Textiles and Leather Conference – CORTEP 2016 Iasi, 27-29 October 2016, Proceedings,
ISSN-L 2285-5378, Editura Performantica, Institutul Naţional de Inventică, Iaşi pg. 208-
211
5. Bianca Aluculesei; Sybille Krzywinski and Antonela Curteza - "Three dimensional
construction and simulation of trousers for wheelchair users.", 9th INTERNATIONAL
TEXTILE, CLOTHING & DESIGN CONFERENCE – Magic World of Textiles,
October , 07th to 10th 2018, Dubrovnik, Croatia, Proceedings, ISSN 1847-7275, 2018
6. Bianca Aluculesei, Sybille Krzywinski and Antonela Curteza - "Scanning procedure for
wheelchair users - a step forward in obtaining a 3D body model for the sitting posture.",
17th Romanian Textiles and Leather Conference – CORTEP 2018, Iasi, 7-9 November
2018, Proceedings, ISSN-L 2285-5378, Editura Performantica, Institutul Naţional de
Inventică, Iaşi pg. 155-159
7. Aluculesei Bianca, Curteza Antonela, Avadanei Manuela, Sybille Krzywinski,
“Implementation of 3D CAD programs in the garment construction for wheelchair users”,
Conferinţa tehnico-ştiinţifică a studenţilor, masteranzilor şi doctoranzilor, 26-29 martie
2019, Univ. Tehn. a Moldovei. – Chişinău: Tehnica-UTM, 2019, ISBN 978-9975-45-
587-9/ ISBN 978-9975-45-589-3, pg. 314 – 3017
Awards
1. Golden medal for Inventica 2015 - "Anthropometric measurements for disabled people–
an international review", The XIX-th International Conference INVENTICA 2015, June
24th-26th, 2015, Iasi, Romania
2. Golden medal for Inventica 2016 - "3D Body Scanning in Sitting position-Processing
techniques in mesh modeling and surface reconstruction of human body", The XX-th
International Exhibition of Inventics, Research and Technological Transfer
"INVENTICA 2016”, June 29th
– July 1th, 2016, Iasi, Romania