Unit 11-Task 3Analysis of Sports Performance

Explain the purpose and resources required for analyzing different levels of

sports performance.

Unit 11 - Task 3 - P5

Explain the purpose and resources required for analysing different levels of sporting performance.

Pages 22-26 of the Electronic Text Book will be very useful.

Task Context

• You are creating a resource for future coaches based on your experiences in Unit 11 tasks 1 and 2.

• You need to choose two of the performer levels below for you whole task to be based on.– Foundation– Participation– Performance– Elite

• You do not need to complete a comparison just explain in detail each of the following factors.

• This resource should be able to support future coaches start the work you have completed so far.

Talent IDLevel of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation : The purpose of talent identification is to establish who is good enough at the sport and should continue to explore where it takes you, or who should stay at a recreational level in the climbing community. This involves moving up to the next standard ,of the sport participation pyramid to being performance. An example of this would be that a climber goes from dong this on a weekly basis for enjoyment to representing their county in the Uk. To even competing at a national level against other climbers.

Elite: The purpose at this level would to identify who is the best at there level in climbing, at one specific category. This would be for example a climber who will have specific training and coaching for them to be good enough to participate in the IFSC worldwide championship.

Monitoring current fitness levels Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: Monitoring current fitness levels, this is used to identify the starting point of a training programme that is specific to climbing. At the participation level this is very important as the performer now has a grasp on what the sport of climbing is about. Fitness levels will identify how the performer can move up. Through out training, fitness levels should be taken to ensure the programme is working with the and benefiting there performance. For example a good test for this would be Cooper Vo2 max test as well as looking at HR whilst the athlete is climbing.

Elite: As Elite this is at the top of the performance level, so fitness levels are very important. AT this stage of performance more equipment is available to the athlete, to obtaining fitness levels. For climbing the best way to obtain results is to complete them whilst doing a climb on a wall, tests using video footage should be done. Such as Cyclic climbing on overhangs or the speed test as well as HR and a measure of VO2 max. This will ensure the performer is at the top of there performance to be able to compete in the IFSC.

Identifying strengths and areas for improvement

Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: AT this level of play a training partner or instructor my give the athlete representative strengths and weaknesses for there current performance. From this the athlete can take this on board and work out how they may rectify there weaknesses and work on them independently. The best way to look at a climbers performance is through video analysis, the training partner or coach can use this as evidence, to build the correct training programme.

Elite: As the performer who has already reached an elite level of performing, the climber will have a wide knowledge of there personal performance. But at this level it is key to iron out all of the weaknesses, to ensure the elite athlete can perform at there maximum potential . This can also help when looking at other performers and how well they are doing, to be able to apply some of there skills to your own performance. Increased training programme accordingly.

Performance assessment Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At participation level the purpose of this is to see how a climber, is affected by environmental factors when in a competition setting. Training associated to using the environmental factors like fans cheering should be used as a advantage, to avoid the performer feeling agitated or nervous. From this the climber can then develop tactics to ensure they win. An example of this in climbing is the speed climb, to this always be one step ahead of the opposition and take smaller steps that ensure you do not slip of the wall.

Elite: At elite level performance all of the competitions if at IFSC level, are highly analyzed and have the best equipment being used to assist the performer. This is then easier for the climber to play back repeatedly to work on a particular move or skill to make sure they get this right so that it can then be applied correctly.

Recovery after injury Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: After getting an injury during training, as the performer is only at participation level thy would have to take a back seat to training for a whilst, to be able to recover. Over this period of recovery the athlete may not be able to do any training , depending on the severity of the injury . Due to this the progress that the climber has made may be reversed and once fully recovered, the athlete will need to take a gently pace to ensure that the injury does not reoccur .An initial fitness test after the performer has recovered to see were the coach should start , for the recovery training programme.

Elite: When a performer at elite level, one of the worst things a climber can have is an injury, as this can put them out of practice for a long time . As well as set them back with there progress , that they are have been able to reach. But due to the performer being at a Elite level , there should be a quicker recovery period due to higher funds, so specialists will be there to help the athlete get back to normal as soon as possible.

Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Elite At elite level as they are practicing on a daily basis there may be more psychological problems, which affect how they performer goes back into the sport as quickly as possible as climbing is a dangerous sport.

Continued from previous page :

Assessment of health status

Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: The performer will have to state whether or not they have any health problems, which may course them harm. Fro example this can be carried out using a PAR-Q. This will show the training partner or coach, if the training should be adapted accordingly to the illness or injury, to ensure that they are still able to progress at the same speed as other athletes who are performing at participation level .

Elite: At elite level the athlete should complete a simple fitness test such as the bleep test or Vo2 max test on the treadmill or even a heart rate test when going up the wall. To gain this basic data on the performers current fitness level, this will show the coach how they should adapt the training programme to benefit the climbers health.

Squad selection

Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At participation level there are a large number of climbers who want to make that jump from becoming a recreational climber , to being an elite performer and be selected by coaches or sponsors . A coach will look at all the performers who want to take part ,but to be the best you need help and there is allot to chose from. Which makes it very hard to select the person who will do the best. Especially as you are an individual and do not have a team to support you.

Elite: At this stage the selection of who will compete at national or worldwide level is even harder as you are picking from some of the best climbers . But to be able to do this, the coach will have to carefully analyze the climber. The best way to do this is look at the technique and skill level on an easy climb, at a grade 5 or lower so the skill level is very clear . Each climber should be recorded so that you can compare much easier.

Goal setting Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: Goal setting is very useful, especially at the early stages of performance as it helps the performer to have something to aspire to and work hard for. With climbing, goals are useful for someone to build up to the next grade of climbing, for example if there current on site grade is a 6a then they should be working towards a 6b. For the goals to be effective they should be based on the SMART principle, they should also be flexible depending on your level of progress and fitness levels.

Elite: At elite level the performer would already be aware of how to use these goal and how they are useful for there personal performance . Both the climber and coach should be involved in deciding the goals, and should have the concept of SMART involved within them. The athlete should then be motivated to stick to the goals and have knowledge on how they can be meet.

Human Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At this level of performance the climbers who participate will mainly be climbing recreationally, and not have a strong motivation level. This sport is mainly for there own enjoyment and each individual will look at there personal improvements. To improve the coach or training partner needs to be someone who has a similar attitude to you and is valuable to your climbing performance, not someone who wants to push you to hard . Looking at other climbing performers will also improve you, as they are working at the same level. Another aid is using video analysis to seek advice and look back on your own performance.

Elite: At Elite level the climber is being paid to perform and participates on a full time basis, this means that they are fully committed to there improvement and who is best to help them to do this. The elite performer will be determined to be the best weather this means doing more exercise, for example to improve strength. This is all to improve there performance as a climber, they will also look at there dietary needs and lifestyle changes.

Facilities Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At participation level ,the climber will not have access to high tech facilities, that are specific to training your climbing ability. The performer will make do with what they have, as they do not have any financial backing. Depending on the centre that you attend there may be training facilities but there will not be a specified trainer who will help you to utilize the equipment for your specific needs.

Elite: As an elite performer the athlete will have a high standard of facilities that they can use. The equipment and facilities will be specified to climbing, this will help the athlete to gain the maximum from there training. This is to ensure that the athlete has the best chance of being able to be the best they can be, to ensure that there are no environmental factors that can disadvantage the climber in any way, compared to other climbers across the world.

Time

Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At this level of performance climbing is only done recreationally and fits in around your everyday lifestyle such as your job or school . This means that there is a limited amount of time that the performer can train and develop there ability to improve there performance, in climbing. There is also limited amount of time the climber can be with a coach or partner, the less time training, the longer it takes for them to improve there overall performance level.

Elite: The athlete will have allot of time to train due to this being there carrier, they would be dedicated to a training programme. The training is constant, this means they will be able to improve in a shorter time frame, then at participation level performer. The more time that the climber dedicates to the sport the more likely they are to succeed.

Equipment Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At this level only minimal equipment is available to theperformer, such as ropes, basic harnesses , belay devices, shoes and sandbags. But when you buy your own equipment has an added expense but increases your comfort, you also have a record of his history and use. Without these basic things you can not climb on an indoor wall for safety reasons. The ropes should be checked before use to see any fraying or kinks in the rope as well as all of your equipment . This is to ensure that nothing goes wrong when you are up the fall to increase your chance of falling to the ground.

Elite: At an elite standard the equipment is at a much higher standard , it is replaced much more regularly and is of the highest quality. This is due to funding from sponsors or family . Due to having the best equipment that is tailored to your specific needs, means that your climbing level can also increase at a faster rate . So there is nothing stopping you from reaching your potential

Financial Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: Financial help can be available to clubs or centers through sponsorship or trust run company’s. Through this the facilities have a wide range of people going in and out of the centers, this creates allot of revenue for the centre and helps to keeping the walls up to standard and staff working for the centre.

Elite: At elite level the athlete has huge amounts of funding through sponsors, fans or even family and friends. In some cases the performers are given money for supporting the company, when the performer competes at a competition or even just wears the logo . At elite level there is extra payments that are needed for health care, physio , coaches , equipment but with this comes extra pressure as a higher standard of play is expected.

Scientific support and equipment Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: At participation level the climber will have barely any scientific support due to it being vastly expensive , but on the other hand not necessarily important for a participation level performer, as the athlete is only participating for enjoyment and interest not to be the best in the world.

Elite: Having access to high levels of technology will make the results that the climber receives more precise and accurate measurements . For example when measuring speed climbing the two performers may reach at the same time but the high tech equipment may give the speed to a number of decimal places . As well ,through scientific support the tests will help to develop strategies to improve performance, for example looking at VO2 max when going up a wall and relating this to every day life. Your VO2 max can then be matched with how long you can last in a session.

Safety Level of Sports Performance Detailed explanation of purpose (‘why’ and ‘how’)

Participation: This is important to a performer at any level. Having the correct equipment can be crucial in some sports such as having belay devices and carribeaners in climbing . Without this it can be life threatening . Making sure that before you climb you check both the belayer and the climber, before they set off on the wall. This is especially important when lead climbing that the belayer has an understanding of how to belay properly, and will not let the climber plummet to the ground

Elite: At an elite level most safety aspects of the sport the climber is already aware of as they have properly been doing the sport for a very long time so are aware of safety when climbing . But with an elite level performer comes extra responsibility as there sponsors expect them to give them a good name and have no mistakes being made . Otherwise it looks bad for them . Also there is certain amounts of safety between the crowd and the performers of=n stage in cases such as the IFSC’s you will need security to keep everything in order.