I WAYAN TANGGUH BARONG MAN

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UbudLifeguide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

NO. 21 • DECEMBER - FEBRUARY 2015

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Cover photo by SantozEverybody loves the cute Barong. Magical and mysterious. They are truly a special part of Bali.

UbudLife MAG

EDITOR’S NOTE Like Us! facebook.com/ubudlifemagz

Om Swastiastu,

Welcome to our lovely 21st edition of Ubud Life. We hope you will enjoy it. This issue we bring you more scintillating stories and great pictures to enjoy.

We visit the beautiful Gunung Lebah temple at the time of their incredible two month long ceremony. Read more about this ancient temple inside.

Ubud and surrounds is not only a world famous centre for new age activities, for learning yoga and healing, it is also a strong spiritual borough where Balinese culture continues unabated. Almost every day visitors, may see a procession or temple ceremony, or perhaps a group conducting their own smaller rituals. House blessings, weddings, cremations, and other more esoteric happenings are a part of the daily Balinese life.

It is all these things that help to make Ubud what it is – that give it the special energy that attracts people from far and wide. Do try to give it credence and enjoy the special ambiance that is UBud - something you will find nowhere else. It is not just a centre of prime real estate folks, or shopping. There is so much more. The continual sale of land and precious rice fields or sawah is leading to a denigration of the whole Ubud experience. It has led a group of artists to make “NOT FOR SALE”, signs on some of the most beautiful rice fields. This is a consciousness raising exercise and we hope that it will awaken at least a conscience or two. Try to buy land that is NOT in the midst of a rice field.

While there are possibly building regulations, they are easily circumvented, so it is really up to us to keep things beautiful. And to those who feel they must build in a pristine area, do try to make your buildings harmonious. Aesthetics make things better for everyone. Lets try to keep Ubud as a special place for everyone.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

THE EDITOR

editorubudlife-gsb team

creative graphic designerdedito ssn.

photographeri gusti ketut windia

sales and marketingketut muliartani

financeyukmang susilawati

distributionubudlife-gsb team

publisherGSB (gemini studio bali)jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982e: info@geministudio-bali.comw: www.ubudlife.com

directorputu santosa

views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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contents

36 PURA GUNUNG LEBAHTAKES OVER TOWN

70 CANDIDASAQUEEN OF THE EAST

18 BARONG MANI WAYAN TANGGUH

68 JATIUWIH JATILUWIHBEAUTY HAS A PRICE

76 THE SEKUMPUL WATERFALL

50 BALI ARTEFACTSTREASURE RISK

happenings around ubud

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Pejeng Puts it ONEvery month at full moon, the Banjar of Pejeng puts on a spectacular new show. December will be the third amazing performance with goblins, a huge ogoh ogoh, kecak dancers and more. It all takes place in front of the beautiful Pejeng Temple and it akes a night to remember.

Damar Restaurant Taking pride of place in the midst of Pengosekan this new open restaurant is vaguely reminiscent of Ary’s Warung. The owners aim to make it a Seminyak – Ubud bridge a kind of fusion, or a softer version of Seminyak.

Manager Arya used to work there after he left work on an Italian cruise line. His expertise in Italian – he also speaks the language – shows in the menu which contains plenty of Italian specialties – like the Prosciutto et Melone or the Eggplant Parmiagana. But one of their signature dishes is not at all Italian – the slow cooked pork belly deserves a try! It is shares well as the pork is as rich as it is delicious. Served with a little apple sauce and a piquant Bali style sauce, it is a winner.

Da Mar Is also the place for an afternoon cocktail with a happy hour that stretches from 5-8. All top shelf spirits are used – no arak or imitation labels here!

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Sri Ratih Spa

The lovely new spa is open in Penestanan. Hidden away inside Sri Ratih Cottages this delightful spa offers an interesting array of treatments. Here are some of their better treatments. One of their most popular treatments is the Indian Ayurvedic Shirodhara – a stress buster that leaves you floating. For 60 minutes the forehead and especially the “third eye” are is anointed with warmed essential oils

A form of Ayurveda therapy originating from the Indian subcontinent in which heated essentials oils are gently poured over the forehead (the 'third eye'). It is used to melt away tension, smooth out worry lines while fostering a tranquil state mind. Highly recommend for people with low energy levels, insomnia, those who suffer from chronic headaches, fatigues and stress.

The Balinese Tradition is 2.5 hours  of pure pleasure. Traditional herbs are used to relax and envelop the body. A foot bath ritual, is followed with a full-body Balinese Herbal compress massage, and continues

with the Balinese Boreh wrap, ending with the application of moisturizing yogurt and a spice bath.

An ancient therapy from the mountains of Tibet, Tibetan Singing Bowl treatment is sixty minutes of healing using sound and vibration. 4 different bowls work harmoniously to balance the chakras and strengthen the immune system. Sound healing is an effective and proven method to help reduce stress and create a deep sense of peace, well-being and better health through vibration.

You can find Sri Ratih Spa inside Sri Ratih Cottages in Penestanan Kelod.

Opening Time is 9 am - 9 pm. Enjoy a Special Promotion of 40% off for all treatments valid until 15 February 2015.

Sri Ratih Spa - Jl Campuhan 1, Penestanan, Ubud. T: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com

DON’T BE SHY!

Contact us atEmail: putu@geministudio-bali.com

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IN PRINT? IF YOU HAVE A STORY TO TELL, OR IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO WRITE FOR US OR HAVE SOME GREAT PHOTOS, DO DROP US A LINE. WE PAY. NOT GRANDLY, BUT BETTER THAN MANY OTHER MAGAZINES AROUND THE AREA.

DON’T BE SHY!

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KOPERNIK has movedThe wonderful Kopernik organization has moved. This great organisation sells amazing eco products. Dig around in their great new space to find solar chargers for phones, solar

lamps for rural kids to do their homework and for others to use during power shortages, solar cookers which concentrate the power of the sun to cook, water purifiers and more. It is just filled with innovative designs that are well priced and totally useful.

Kopernik is also involved with “Last Mile Communities” an NGO that brings help and relief to impoverished rural areas. Surely there are no such things in prosperous Bali? You ask! Well believe it, there are many, many people existing way below the poverty line. Drop by and have a look and buy, buy, buy. You will find their lovely new store in Pengosekan, not far from Arma.

www.kopernik.info

Bali Spirit Festival

Once again the International Bali Spirit Festival will be here in March to entertain and thrill the gathering

throngs. Yoga, music, drama, the arts, swimming, fun, children’s activities will

fill the days and nights for four fun filled days. For any info try

www.balispiritfestival.com

FRESH SpaUsing only organic products for their dreamy treatments, Fresh is one of the healthiest spas in town. You could try the avocado-egg treatment for the hair, guaranteed to make it moist and luscious. Situated right by Batan Waru by a tiny waterway, in the midst of Jl Dewi Sita’ it is really right in the middle of UBud.

Treatments include the gorgeous products by Botanicals – a range of natural things that smell like heaven. It’s light fun and natural and one of UBud’s local secrets.

Jl Dewi Sita, between Jalan Monkey Forest and Jl Goutama, Ubud, T: 0361 8493677

ARMA The Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) has recently won the “ADIKARYA RUPA” Award for Indonesia’s best Museum, even ahead of the National museum in Jakarta. This

delightful gallery/museum/ garden, performance venue/restaurant/ hotel AND international event venue, is a place which brings you back to the feeling of being in Bali. It so well deserves to win! Every week there are cultural performances, shows, book launches, exhibitions and even when there is nothing special, it is still a special place to be. PS They also serve the best crispy duck in town!

ARMA - Jl Raya Pengosekan, UbudT: 0361 974228

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BARONG MANI WAYAN TANGGUHby richard horstman • image santoz, gsb colletionsby richard horstman • images ayu sekar

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WHO’S WHO

O f all of the wonderful, mysterious and exciting manifestations that I have encountered in Bali it is the

Barong that I adore. The Barong entertains a special place in my imagination; the realm of powerful childhood fantasies that at times is in conflict with a logical mind. This logic likes to deny the existence of mystical phenomena, believing that the esoteric power of creatures such as the Barong cannot possibly be true. However, deep inside I know this to be otherwise.

The Barong is a lion like creature with a red head, big black, round and hypnotic eyes, and rows of white, shiny teeth. Its physical presence is distinctive and magnificent. It takes two men to occupy the Barong’s enormous costume that is often covered in thick, shaggy fur, decorated with gilded jewelry and adorned with pieces of mirrors. One man assumes the role as the body and rear legs, while the other manipulates its head, with its great snapping jaws, and front legs.

The Barong’s origins go far back in time and are uncertain, however it is believed to be connected with animist spirits and ancient beliefs in the supernatural protective power of animals that predate Balinese Hinduism. There are associations with the Chinese lion, also an ancient traditional symbol and features in many Chinese cultural festivals.

The Barong plays a most significant role within the villages of the Balinese Hindu people. Barong is the benevolent guardian spirit watching over the lives of individuals. It remains housed in a special room within the temple, Pura Desa, in each village throughout the island. During certain temple ceremonies it is present, often in an extraordinary display of performance, the Calonarang, filled with

spectacle and drama. This is when its potent energy is so palpable the audience literally can sense it, and the Barong’s unique magic comes to life.

According to the Balinese Hindu philosophy good and evil are both equal parts of the one infinite universal life-giving source and must be harmonized in a never-ending precession of prayers, offerings and ritual. Barong assumes this harmonizing role and represents all that is positive within the universe.

In Banjar Mukti, in the village of Singapadu several kilometres west of Ubud lives I Wayan Tangguh, renowned as a craftsman some of the finest Barongs in the regency of Gianyar. Tangguh was born in the early 1920’s into a family of rice farmers with strong traditional ties, his father was a multi-talented man. He was especially gifted as a carver of sacred ceremonial wooden masks, topeng, and he specialized in creating the Barong.

As a child each morning Tangguh would rise upon the call of the roosters, and along with his father would venture out to tend the fields. Late in the morning they would return home and carve masks, and in the cool of the late afternoon they would return to the sawah and resume work. Tangguh served as “apprentice” to his father for many years learning the sensitivities of eye to hand co ordination in order to become a master craftsman. There is also another essential part of the creative process he learned from his father as well.

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Everybody loves the barong – the cute and loveable barong lives a life of riley. They get taken to festivals across the island to stand in state while big celebrations are on and they get to dance for tourists in other places. They are truly a special part of Bali.

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Like all aspects of the Balinese culture, the making of the Barong is based upon time honoured and practical fundamentals.

Following the Balinese principles of sekala-niskala, which holds that we all live equally in two worlds; the seen or conscious world sekala, and the unseen or psychic world niskala, the procedure to create the Barong, from the initial cutting of the tree for the wood, until the mask is carved, painted and attached with the costume is very time consuming, and governed by a strict process of ritual and ceremony. After the Barong is ordained in the ceremony known as the pasupati, giving it supernatural powers, it is then ready to serve the community in its sacred role.

Via a complex series of prayers and offerings, step by step the craftsman is guided through the

journey so as every facet of the creative process, from the beginning until the end, is aligned with the ancient traditions and accordance with the universal laws. It is these important rituals that, over decades, Tangguh learned from his father too.

Materials to make the Barong are generally obtained locally. Often the ubiquitous frangipani tree, found in every Balinese family compound, is the source of the wood. The shaggy hair of the costume can be made, for example from the fibrous leaves of the pandan tree, or silk from the cocoon of the silk worm, or the most expensive fibres, white horse hair from Sumbawa.

If you have never witnessed the Calonarang performance during a Balinese temple ceremony, it is sight that you will never forget, and indeed a spectacle to behold. During these occasions the worlds of sekala and niskala meet and, for a time, become indistinguishable, and the Barong truly becomes animated.

Often referred to as the kris trance dance, the performers, clad in only the black and white poleng sarongs, come under the spell of Barongs adversary, Rangda, the wicked witch, a symbolic personification of evil. In a frenzied trance they turn their long, razor sharp ceremonial knives upon themselves, often with such force the blade of the knife bends. It is Barongs protective power that keeps the performers free from harm. This mesmerizing performance that dramatizes the relationship between order and chaos, a battle that represents an eternal universal conflict is utilized as a cleansing ritual during the temple ceremony.

Tall and wiry, Tangguh is both a strong and lively character for his distinguished age. One of his most important responsibilities is to share his master skills with his sons who will carry on with his legacy. Tangguh’s role within his community affords him great respect for his sacred knowledge of ritual power qualifies him as a priest, and his creative skills are the source of one of the most famous icons of the Balinese traditional culture....

So many restaurants, so many choices! Ubud is becoming more blessed every week with new and exciting places to

eat. Still, others have been here for a while and have found their place in the community. Here are three of UBud’s, “must try’s”.

A year or three has seen KEBUN grow so that is seems as if its always been there. Their Tuscan Farmhouse style décor and artisan food transports you to another place. French music sets the scene but nothing is faux. It is just a very pleasing place to be.

One of their star offerings lasts from Sunday brunch to dinner. The Lox and Bagels is a must try!. The home made bagels come loaded with cream cheese, cucumber, lashings of smoked salmon and capers with a little salad to garnish. To taste it is to fall a little bit in love.

Home crafted breads are a joy – bagels, croissants of almond, chocolate or plain, crusty brown loaves, baguettes, muffins, toast – there are plenty to choose from.

Dinner with soft ambient lighting is the place to enjoy a wide landscape of favourites from the prawns in olive oil cooked Spanish style, to the braised lamb shanks, the Farmer’s Platter, and some great steaks and pizzas. For desserts try Ubud’s best Crème Bruleee or their delicious new Chocolate Souffle - all accompanied by a great range of well priced wines and cocktails.

With the diminutive Parisian songbird, Edith Piaf singing of love and loss in the background, it is certainly a place to enjoy....Kebun Bistro – Jl Hanoman 44 Ubud.

T:0361 7803801

PICAGood things come in small packages, they say and in the case of Ubud’s new Pica restaurant, it is certainly true. If you are walking down Jl Dewi Sita, you may blink and you will miss it. But it lies just opposite Locavore and a little attention will get you there. Pica, a Spanish word, means “something that stimulates your appetite” and the restaurant certainly lives up to its name.

BeautifulandBeguiling by elizabeth alexandre

THE ELEPHANTOverlooking the gorgeous Campuhan Ridge with fresh breezes blowing gently across from that grassy incline, The Elephant is a vegetarian restaurant par excellence. Even though they offer no meat dishes, you barely miss it.. as the food is so delicious. Fried polentas, sweet potato chips, make great starters. Salads are fresh and innovative.

The Antipasta with grilled capsicum, and a delicious smokey eggplant, olives and more all together with home made bread is a favourite that some of us c an’t bear to miss.

An Asian based menu complements the European dishes and it is all good. The Elephant is a favourite lunch spot although the are open in the evening as well.

Wines, cocktails and great juices are all available and espresso coffee.....The Elephant – Jl Raya Sanginggan,

Campuhan , Ubud

T: 0361 7161907

The food is authentic South American with cute new packaging. Fresh and interesting and well presented, each dish delights the senses as much as the palate.

Starters include Causa Del Mar. The long dish is creatively arranged with prawns, octopus and Mahi Mahi , accompanied with a Peruvian cold Potato cake and a creamy sauce. Empandas de Choclo come with a light and fluffy pastry with a creamy corn filling. Oh and their home made bread with balsamic and olive oil makes you want more.

The Pulpo Al Olivio, (grilled octopus with quinoa and an olive sauce), looks fabulous and is definitely on the must try list! The list goes on. Steak lovers will adore the Bife Anco . Served in a huge bowl, grilled to perfection, this 300 gm Australian Angus is served Argentinian style, with jus and Chimichurri sauce. Accompanying it was a big bowl of creamy, buttery mashed potatoes. Who could resist!

The boiled pork belly, Pancita de Lechon with potato, apple and date jus needs to be tried, to be believed. It’s not a dish I usually order, but this version is out of this world and worth a trip to Ubud, just to experience the meltingly soft and piquant pork.

The small but elegant wine list offers three carefully chosen whites and reds from great wineries in Chile, New Zealand and Australia. There is a daily special for those who like to drink wine by the glass. Cocktails, like the intruiging Amaretto Sour, or the bitingly perfect Caipirinha are fabulous. They also serve beer and premium spirits. After the meal enjoy a killer espresso, or a pot of premium tea.

Desserts are few, only two! Both are delicious. Leche Asada, is a Chilean style crème caramel with a piquant burnt sugar sauce and the other is Tres Leches – a classic Peruvian “three milks” cake – delicioso! All topped off with a teeny espresso, my dining companion expressed it to be the best meal he’d had in ages!....Pica – Jl Dewi Sita opp. Locavore. T:0361 971 660

E: bookings@picakitchen.co

UBUD EATING

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Walking the RidgePERSPECTIVES

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by ayu sekar • images jill alexander

In Bali there is nothing to beat an early morning walk. In the south, a great jaunt along the uncrowded shore will do it for you, and in the cool crisp Ubud mornings, there are plenty of

choices to be had and the best has to be the Campuhan Ridge.

As its name suggested the ridge rises from the Campuhan River - that ancient holy confluence where the rivers East and West Wos mix. This source of holy water and site of a holy temple is a place of healing and a wonderful place to start the walk.

You can start at the Bridge then follow the path through the beautiful Ibah Hotel or pass through the little school yard. After passing the newly renovated Gunung Lebah Temple, the path leads through a field of long grasses before heading up and out of the valley.

If you sit in a café along the road that leads up from Campuhan you will notice that long grassy ridge that seems to lead out of nowhere. It always has a slightly mystical appearance, which goes with its history. But history aside, the walk is pleasant and lightly invigorating and can last just as long as you care to make it. If you follow the path to the end, you will discover that it joins a road, and the road leads to other small villages and eventually to grand vistas of rice fields.

Strenuous walkers can turn left at the first road and follow it right back into Ubud, or alternatively you can just keep going and see where you end up. It all depends on your energy levels.

A very pleasant restaurant overlooking the rice fields makes a fine place for breakfast and where many of us stop. After fruit and eggs and coffee, the thought of walking further becomes less enticing and sometimes we have even been known to take a taxi back to Ubud. It is all about enjoyment after all....

Spirit of Baliwords • image by ayu sekar

These two delightful boys are attending their own coming of age ceremony in Dauh Tukad, a beautiful Bali Aga village close to Tenganan in Candidasa.

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Noone could fail to notice the commotion by the Campuhan Bridge in the past few months. Traffic jams and extraordinary processions, beautiful barongs flying by in trucks, were all part of the show as this ancient temple which dates back centuries to the time in the 7th century when an Indian sage was drawn to the confluence of the rivers and the strong healing energy that emanated from the area.

In fact the very name Ubud comes from the Sanskrit word Ubad which means “healing powers” or “medicine”. The wild herbs that grew in the area were also used to treat many ailments.

The temple grew and grew and after its last renovation in the 1990’s it was decided that such an important temple that serves a wide area, up to Kintamani needed an upgrade. Two years and many rupiah passed and now the temple is sparkling with a new beauty.

Celebrations went on for two months. Offerings were brought from far and wide and many beautiful barongs were brought to be blessed and to watch over the proceedings. The space was small so some stayed for just a few days, to be then taken home while new ones were brought in – each accompanied by ritual ceremony and prayer.

Decorations in the temple were amazingly beautiful. Offerings of flowers covered every

surface and were changed daily as more new offerings were brought in. Large effigies made of brightly coloured rice flour were simply works of art, and as ephemeral

as a Tibetan mandala. After they served their purprose they were disposed of, without ceremony. Beautifully fashioned barongs, gleaming with gold prada and with bodies simulating tigers, or leopards or covered in spiky black hair were brought from dozens of temples to be blessed and purified.

The complexity of the event was huge with dozens of events and performances as well as prayer times for different communities involved that needed to be organized into a smooth flow. From the outside it all appeared effortless. At the side of the temple, a kitchen was running to provide ceremonial food and food for the temple people.

While I have spent lots of time in ceremonies across the island, the cermeonies close to home in Ubud are hard to beat. We, as foreigners are sometimes accepted as visitors, but this is not about us, it is pure Bali....

CULTURE

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by ayu sekar

PURA GUNUNG LEBAH TAKES OVER TOWN

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A lust for life and adventure, along with a generous

dose of savvy and courage have propelled New York City born and bred Bruce Carpenter around the planet.

The son of a young American soldier who returned from World War Two with an upper class English bride, Carpenter found himself torn between the idealism and glory of old Britain and the cosmopolitan metropolis of his birth. In the end, the creative cauldron that was NYC in the 60s & 70s would be the winner.

“I found my sanctuary in the great museums and then seminal art scene of the “City” where I was introduced to Underground Art Scene and the Beat Poets. This would lead on to the first happenings, the precursor of installations, in Soho lofts, Andy Warhol’s Factory, experimental theatre and film,” says Carpenter, who eventually channelled his creativity into filmmaking. Carpenter was also an eyewitness and full-blown inductee into the Woodstock Generation, having been an enthusiastic participant, and the Age of Aquarius.

The election of Richard Nixon and the resurgence of the conservative right, along with the death of a brother who served during the Vietnam War, precipitated a leap across the Atlantic Ocean to the city

of Amsterdam where idyllic hippie dreams were still raging on. After experiencing one long and miserable Northern European winter, Carpenter succumbed to exotic tales of the mystic East recited by a new breed of young travellers. In 1974 he sold his camera and bought a one-way ticket to Bangkok. During the next 18 months he would explore the east crisscrossing the Malay Peninsula and Indonesia starting in Sumatra. Together with the Swiss artist-photographer, Charles Junod, they would scout out wild destinations and create surreal installations that they photographed. These would tour Europe in an exhibition of surreal photography sponsored by the Canon Gallery.

When Carpenter arrived on Bali’s island paradise Kuta was no more than a small village set in coconut groves adjacent to the beach. “There was a handful of homestays with a cast of international bohemian surfers and roaming hippies ,” he recounts. The two most dangerous moving objects were falling coconuts and the deer-like Balinese cow.

For the next decade Carpenter led a nomadic lifestyle with regular visits to Bali. In the early 1980s, after meeting Dr. Stanley Kripper, he began organizing cultural tours under the auspices of the Institute of Noetic Sciences in Sausalito.

FOCUSBruce Carpenter

These specialized in visits to traditional healers and religious figures and would end with a book on traditional Balinese healing co-authored with Krippner and Dr. Denny Thong, the head of Bali’s mental hospital in Bangli.

In 1985 Carpenter settled in Ubud and began working on a series of research and art projects usually tied with the art, history and culture of Indonesia. As his reputation grew he was invited to author and co-author a growing number of books. In 1993 he gained wide attention as the author of Willem G. Hofker, Painter of Bali (1993), the first major book on an expatriate artist on Bali.

Through a serious of discussions with key figures in the hotel industry in Bali Carpenter was to be granted a wonderful opportunity after he convinced the management of the Four Seasons Resort in Jimbaran that luxury hotels were the natural heirs of the mantle once held by the royal palaces as patrons of the arts. The result was the opening of the Ganesha Gallery, the first dedicated art gallery on the premises of a hotel in 1992. This was hailed as an excellent cultural bridge between the guests and Indonesian modern and traditional art.

Initially the resort attracted wealthy and sophisticated international clientele and with the charismatic Carpenter as the figurehead of Ganesha and his sharp eye for art, the timing was perfect and it became an immediate success.

For a 15-year period the gallery held 12 exhibitions a year, an unheard of phenomenon in Indonesian art, confirming it as the fine art gallery in Bali. In its heyday well-heeled guests and local collectors purchased quantities of art, however over the years as the profile of the guests changed, along with events such as the Gulf War, 9/11 and the Bali bombings, and its market gradually faded. This experience for Carpenter garnered him enormous experience and knowledge, along with connections and an international reputation.

In the meanwhile Carpenter also began publishing a series of books on the traditional arts of Indonesia. In all, Carpenter has written and co-authored over

twenty books and scores of articles on Indonesian art, culture and history. However, with the recent release of the book Lempad of Bali – The illuminating Line, one of the most comprehensive studies on the master of Balinese traditional art, Gusti Nyoman Lempad (1862-1978), on the 20th September 2014 at Museum Puri Lukisan, he admits, “this has by far been the most challenging project I have engaged in in my life.”

“As the book concept and project manager, my list of tasks was unprecedented. I had to oversee interactions with over forty institutions and collectors in eight different countries, each with different requirements, along with dealing with six authors, one of whom is dead!” Carpenter says. “Our endeavour was to include in the book, the broadest range of Lempad’s works available. The detective work required was unbeknownst to us and consequentially enormous.” The beautiful volume of over 424 pages is the culmination of more than six years work for the team of dedicated and respected academics and professionals.

“Bali deserves to have world class art exhibitions, books and events to create more interest in its immense and unique culture,” Carpenter states.

“I am dedicated to the publication of illustrated books on the traditional arts of Indonesia which have disappeared or are disappearing. We honor the past by recording its brilliance. I also feel it is important to urge young Indonesians to do the same. It is ironic that westerners play such a critical role in the studies of Indonesian art. This should change.”

Opinionated and articulate Carpenter counts many, including the rich and famous, as friends. A father of two he cuts both a dashing and unusual figure. His trailblazing journey through life is rich in colourful tales that are steeped in the exotic, mysterious and dynamic....

PILAR BATU GALLERY

ADDRESS:JALAN PENGOSEKAN, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI | PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044

EMAIL: PILARBATUGALLERY@GMAIL.COM | WWW.PILARBATU.COM

Presenting fine art quality of painting and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi

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Dairy and Beyondby chef simon • image neal harrison

There’s no surer way to feel deprived than eating or drinking a watered

down, gluten free, dairy free, cruelty free alternative of a glorious food product. Most dairy alternatives are a great example. Somehow human beings have taken a strong liking towards the nourishing, creamy white elixir called milk, squeezed out of a cow’s udder.

Not to mention all it’s delicious products produced from it. Milk was once stored in bags made out of a cow’s stomach. Allegedly an ancient cowboy left his bag lying around in the sun for too long and thanks to an enzyme in the cow’s stomach called ‘rennet’ this produced, solely by chance, the first cheese. It took generations of sheer brilliant invention, luck

and determination to create the dazzling range of cheeses that the world knows today. The lack of refrigeration certainly forced us humans to be creative in our attempts to preserve precious milk. The Europeans are still leading this milky march, and went to seemingly bizarre places to create alluring nuggets of salty, crumbly, creamy and often plain addictive cheese. Even in these sterile modern times, unpasteurized cheese is still very much alive. Moldy cheese is mainstream, I’m not sure whether Mediterranean maggot cheese will ever make it to the supermarket shelves though. I digress, as this is not about dairy. Nor is it written for people who somehow are deprived of dairy. These are recipes that are delicious. They don’t involve animal products. They are super healthy. I prefer to drink cashew milk over cows milk, it somehow feels fresher. Coconut yoghurt is just as delicious as the most amazing Greek yoghurt. Cashew cream cheese is rich, slightly tangy and incredibly satisfying. These foods aren’t replacements or recreations of their infamous cousins. They are worthy a savour for the most discerning foodies out there, vegan or not. If their creaminess, tanginess and plain satisfaction factor remind you of dairy, well, lucky you.

Creamy Cashew and Vanilla MilkGF DF Vegann 1 cup of raw cashews, soaked in plenty water for 2 to 6 hours, drained, rinsed

such as soy yoghurt. Non dairy yoghurt culture starters are available too. We’re using this only for the probiotic bacteria. We need these workers to turn our coconut milk into yoghurt. If you’re ok with a trace of dairy, use plain unsweetened live yoghurt. Check the list of ingredients; it should mention the bacteria cultures it contains.

Bring your coconut milk in a thick bottomed pan on a low heat to a gentle boil. Let it bubble away for about 5 minutes whilst occasionally stirring. Turn of the heat and let the coconut milk cool down to about 40 degrees Celsius. If you’re not sure, stick your finger in the milk. If you’re able to keep it there for at least a minute, you’re on the right track. Now introduce your bacteria to the milk, simply by stirring it in. In a pot of boiling water, boil your jars and lids for 2 minutes to sterilize. Allow them to cool down before pouring in your yoghurt mixture. Screw the lids on tight. If you’ve got access to a warm place, simply storing these jars for 24 hours will be sufficient to create yoghurt. If not, you can use a cool box. Line up the jars and cover them with 40 degree warm water. Close the cool box and leave for 24 hours. By then your yoghurt should have cultured and can be kept in the fridge for at least another week.

Cashew and Coconut Cream CheeseGF DF Vegann 2 cups of cashew nuts. Soaked in ample water for 12 hours. Drained and rinsedn 2 cups of coconut milkn 1 teaspoon of soy saucen 1 teaspoon of sea saltn 1 teaspoon of agar agar. (a seaweed based thickener, available at Asian grocery stores) You can play around with this quantity. The more you use the firmer your cheese will be

In a blender, combine cashews, oil, 1 cup of the coconut cream, soy sauce and salt. If you happen to have made the coconut yogurt mentioned previously, you can use 1 cup of this instead. This will result in a more tangy cream cheese. Blend at high speed until very smooth. In a saucepan, combine the other cup of coconut cream and agar agar, bring to the boil whilst stirring. Boil for 2 minutes. With the blender running, introduce the boiled milk/agar mixture to the rest of the ingredients, do this whilst this mixture is still hot and runny. When completely combined, pour into a container and allow to set in the fridge for several hours.

Simon Jongenotter is a wholefoods chef and energetic healing practitioner. He is in love with life as a permanent resident at Bali Silent Retreat where he finds purpose in bringing together the arts of wholesome

UbudLife 47

PALATABLE PLEASURE

n 4 cups of water

n 1 teaspoon seasalt

n Stevia or sugar to taste. Suggestion, 1 tablespoon sugar or the stevia equivalent

n 1 vanilla pod, scraped

Stevia is a sugar free sweetener made from the stevia plant. It’s a powerful sweetener with many alleged health benefits. I’m personally happy to use small amounts of sugar in my diet but I included the option for the people that prefer to steer totally free of sugar.

Combine all ingredients in blender and blend until smooth and creamy. This may take a few minutes depending on your blender. Taste and make sure you can’t detect any bits. Serve cold. Or use as you would use milk in any recipe.

Coconut YoghurtGF (optional DFVegan, see below)n 1 litre of good quality coconut milk.

n 1 spoon of live yoghurt.

n 4 250 ml screwtop jars. Or any other packaging which stores a litre of yoghurt. Preferably use glass.

Make sure you use a coconut milk with a reasonably high fat content. This will guarantee deliciously rich and creamy yoghurt. If you want your yoghurt to be completely dairy free, you’ll have to use a spoon of existing dairy free yoghurt,

Think about Bali and what springs to mind? Rice terraces, temples, stone

carving, wood carving, masks and ritual objects... Although Bali’s artisanship has made the island rich in antiquities, many of these treasures are quietly disappearing from neglect.

Bali’s celebration of artisanship and decoration has made the island rich in antiquities. Many of these are created from sand stone or wood which break down quickly in tropical conditions if not properly conserved. One collector told me, “ I’ve seen so many beautiful, valuable old pieces unprotected from the elements. Then when I return a few years later, they are badly damaged or completely destroyed by the sun, rain and wind. I often buy pieces that would otherwise be left outside to rot away. I’m trying to recycle them into modern hotels and villas and sell them to collectors so they will survive.”

International collectors are keen to buy them but the Balinese place little value on their antiquities. “Balinese people don’t care about this,” a Balinese friend confirmed. “We only like new things.”

Bali Artefacts-Treasure Riskby ibu kat

52 UbudLife

Seafaring traders skilled in metalwork landed in Bali and Java from South China about 1000 Before Common Era (BCE). They left behind jewellery, weapons and about 30 massive stone sarcophagus. During the 15th century of the Common Era (CE) the royal courts of Java began to migrate to Bali with their artisans before the tide of Islam, bringing Hinduism to most of the island. Several villages of Bali Aga (the original inhabitants) rejected Hinduism and maintained their traditions in remote mountain communities.

All these peoples contributed to a wealth of artefacts including costumes, ritual masks, carvings, paintings, metalwork, jewellery, textiles, and decorated wood and stonework.

Many pieces were stolen by Dutch residents from homes and temples and sold to collectors in Europe. A concerned Dutchman created the Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali as a conservation centre in 1910. It was used mainly for storage until 1932 when Walter Spies and some other residents created an ethnographic museum of Balinese antiquities and cultural objects. There’s also a private museum of Balinese folk art in Denpasar. Pejeng has a small, poorly curated museum which is more like a warehouse but

contains some astonishing pieces including sarcophagus thousands of years old. Pejeng is located at the heart of Bali’s so-called archaeological ‘golden triangle’ which includes Bedulu, Tampaksiring, Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empul. Besides these 10th century monuments, farmers still plough up old stone carvings from that era in the rice fields of Pejeng.

TREASURE

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54 UbudLife

Although foreign collectors will pay thousands of dollars for a stone statue, these days, most Balinese would rather spend their money on a Harley or some other western icon than an artefact. A handful of Balinese collectors are seeking out and purchasing artefacts. “I’ve been accused of selling and exploiting my culture,” says one young man. “But the truth is that the Balinese don’t want or value these antiquities, which are often abandoned and destroyed by the elements. By buying them, I can preserve them. I want to teach and influence the Balinese to value their arts heritage and give it the prestige it deserves.”

“The most important thing to me is to keep the pieces safe, either in my own collection or by selling them to collectors who will value and protect them. If the priest or owner agrees, I will make a contract with them to buy the piece and keep it in my private collection instead of selling it.”

When a sacred piece of art was made, the lontar (sacred texts) describes in great detail how and when to make it. Its materials, ceremony and the rules for its ceremonial use and how it should be worshipped were made very clear. But there are no rules about the preservation of the original object, so that has become a local decision. When the

time comes to replace a ritual object because it’s worn or damaged, a pralina ceremony takes place to transfer the power into the new object. After the pralina, the old object no longer holds ritual power (it is decommissioned, as it were) and the priest sometimes destroys it. Many priests are afraid to sell an old piece in case it may carry some residual bad energy so they bury, burn or throw it into the sea; many are left outside to weather away. Much valuable art is lost in this way.

There is a Faculty of Archaeology under the Language and Culture Division of Udyana University and about 25 students a year study the subject. They research, excavate and reconstruct antiquities and teach rural banjars how to preserve their monuments using appropriate materials. Protecting antiquities is supposed to be the government’s responsibility but in fact very little is done. Financial support of the museums is minimal. In Gianyar some artefacts are now being protected, but there is no real understanding of conservation. 

It will take creativity to preserve Bali’s antiquities in a contemporary commercial environment. One idea is to generate a passion to collect in a hotel owner, who will then fill his or her hotel with

a wonderful collection of antiquities that guests will travel to see, thus paying indirectly to conserve them. Another is to encourage the collection of Balinese antiquities internationally, which will hopefully give them more profile and protection at home. At the very least, stone statues should have a roof and wooden ones should be protected from humidity and termites.

“An old statue is not just a piece of stone,” said the young man who asked me to write this story. “It’s a book to be read, it is therapy for the soul. It’s so important to understand the importance of keeping this knowledge for our children and grandchildren.”!...

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56 UbudLife

His eyes are different from those of other babies, rounder than they should be, and his skin is smoother and lighter. His body, too, is unusually big for one of his

age. He looks weird, thus, in the arms of the dark-skinned and slender Balinese girl, my sister. Yes, my sister is now back among us. She has come back from Java, where she spent a long and lonely year.

The father of my sister’s son is a foreigner. He is American. He has disappeared, lost in a dream, which has become our nightmare.

It started as a typical Balinese story of life. My father used to be a fisherman working on the small beach of Abian Gombal, back in the times when the beach did not know anything about hotels and when no one had heard of tourists. Those were difficult times. The Dutch had been kicked out and Japan humiliated. The country was independent but poor and my father, a fisherman, was poorer than most. Somehow he and my mother managed to produce and nourish seven children. Our mother worked at the market, dealing in vegetables and fruit.

We were a large family from a poor village, and since none of us could afford to be educated beyond the primary level, we took up odd jobs. I was a market hand before turning photographer, while my brothers became drivers, technicians and cooks. We were just a poor ordinary family.

My sister was the youngest of us all. When she dropped out of school, the stories of Kuta and its crowds of rich leisurely white men fascinated her. She landed several jobs in a row there; first as a cleaner, then as a waitress, then as a salesgirl and I forget what else. She did well and when she came back it seemed as if she could speak better English than even the English teacher at our school in Abian Gombal.

Sometimes, however, she would make strange comments about the Ratu Gede, the god from our village, the enemy of all evil. One day, she even told us that she was not Ketut Kasih anymore, but her name was now Lily. Since she was Lily, she stopped going to our temple, without taking leave at the shrine of our father’s fathers. My father is a patient man and he knew that daughters have to leave anyway sooner or later. If he had wanted to say something, he kept it to himself.

T H E S A V I O R O F B A L Iby jean couteau

UbudLife 57

. One day, Lily came back home with a man. He was white and big, with a grayish dirty beard and strange twinkling eyes. He was around fifty, possibly more. She had brought home such men before, but this time, we knew it was different, as she was pregnant. He wanted to talk, he said, but he could not speak our language.

We got a friend to help, and there we sat, on the shabby mat of our poor fisherman’s house. There were my father, my friend, myself, and my sister and her man. We offered him tea; he would not drink. We offered him cookies; he would not eat. He only wanted to talk.

Sitting awkwardly in the lotus position, his eyes glowing brighter than those of Rarung, the witch from the Rangda story, he blurted out: “I have been sent by God. I have received the “call” and I am here to save Bali from the forces of evil.” My friend was translating, stony-faced. I looked at my sister’s swelling belly and said quietly to myself, “ My Gosh, if he got the “call,” what did my sister get, there in her belly?”

The stranger continued: “I love Lily, and I want to take her as my wife.” He still would not taste the hurriedly bought Coca-Cola we gave him, but my father, who was a good man, had known some good foreign men from the days of the Dutch, and knew them to be a little weird. He therefore did

not object and only said, in a tense but friendly voice, “I give you my daughter, as long as you behave as a man must behave. Take her as your wife in law and life.”

They did not talk about offerings, or about taking leave from the gods and all that. The strange white man just left with my ballooning sister in tow.

We did not hear from them for months. My father would sometimes go to Kuta in search of them, but there were many white men there, and many had the same beard. He kept his pain within himself and took up carving.

One day, Lily showed up, alone and hungry, carrying her three-month old baby. She had been in Java, she said, and her man had gone somewhere to Sumatra to follow the “call” and teach others.

She took a letter from her small leather bag and showed it to me. It read as follows: “Lily, my beloved wife. I know that you need me. I cannot come back to you now. I will come back only when God tells me to come. I am waiting for a sign from Him.

No sign ever came.

That is how my sister’s husband saved the island of Bali.

How many sisters do I have in Bali, and how many saviors are out there?...

OPINION

TEGALLALANG -CEKING RICEFIELDThe wood carving village of Tegallalang, meaning grass fields, is very much a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the stunning sculptured rice terraces here. If you are heading north, look for the picture postcard view across the valley on your right-hand side. The location is cool and breezy with lots of small viewing areas where you can stop for refreshments while

you take photos. Painters also love this place. A winding river valley is carved into steep embankments, and the long-stemmed ‘padi Bali’ (indigenous Balinese rice) is grown here.

Workshops and simple wholesale outlets line the road for 5km, selling all sorts of wooden handicrafts including carved mythical lions, horses, human figures, dogs, dragons, vases, frogs, kangaroos, cats, ornate totems, panels, doors, windows, tables and the many brilliant forms of creativity – extending even to large-scale dinosaurs, and some magnificent Garuda statues.

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62 UbudLife

Nom

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UbudLife 63

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

WORLD MAP

UBUD

ISLAND OF BALI

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!...

ubud cultural dance performanceslegong of mahabrata ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance padang tegal kaja-open stage 7.00 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] ubud main road-oka kartini 8.00 pmlegong dance arma-open stage 7.30 pmjanger dance ubud water palace-open stage 7.30 pmjegog [bamboo gamelan] bentuyung village 7.00 pmkecak fire & trance dance batu karu temple-open stage 7.30 pm

legong dances ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmbarong & keris dance wantilan padang tegal kelod 7.00 pmkecak ramayana & fire dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmlegong telek arma-open stage 7.30 pmwomen performance bale banjar ubud kelod 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod 7.30 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] kertha accommodation-monkey forest st 8.00 pmlegong dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmtrance culture bale banjar ubud kelod 7.30 pm

legong & barong dance ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmmask dance [topeng jimat] arma-open stage 7.00 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] ubud main road-oka kartini 8.00 pmlegong dance yamasari stage-peliatan open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance padang tegal kaja-open stage 7.00 pmjegog [bamboo gamelan] pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.00 pm

kecak [monkey chant dance] puri agung peliatan 7.30 pmlegong dance jaba pura desa kutuh 7.30 pmthe barong & keris dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod 7.30 pmwayang wong dance bale banjar ubud kelod 7.30 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] pondok bambu-monkey forest st 7.30 pm

barong dance ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmlegong dance balerung stage peliatan 7.30 pmkecak and fire dance pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod 7.00 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] ubud main road-oka kartini 8.00 pmjegog [bamboo gamelan] bentuyung village 7.00 pmbarong & keris dance arma-open stage 5.30 pm

legong dance ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmlegong dance ubud water palace 7.30 pmfrog dance bale banjar ubud kelod 7.00 pmlegong dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance pura dalem taman kaja-open stage 7.30 pmwayang wong arma-open stage 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance pura desa batuan-open stage 7.00 pm

sat

frith

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64 UbudLife

pura protocoltips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples

As visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself....

TIPS

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BALI MAPLEGEND: Provincial capital Town Mountain LakePlaces of interest Village Temple Airport/Airstrip Harbour Surfing spotsDiving spots

50 10 15 20 25 35 40 45 50 km30

Jimbaran Bay

Legian Beach

San

urBe

ac

h

Kuta Beach

Canggu Beach

Nusa

Dua

Bea

ch

Medewi Beach

Balian BeachSoka Beach

TulambenB

ay

Amuk Bay

Candidasa Beach

Lo

vina Beach

L O M B O K S T R A I T

BA

LI

ST

RA

I T

B A L I S E A

BA

DU

NG

S T R A I T

I N D O NE S

I AN

OC

EA

N

Tegallalang

Sedihing

Pemuteran Reef Building

BiahaMimpang

Tepekong

Gili Selang

Jemeluk WallBunutan Reef

BuyukSD

Manta Point

Manta Point

Malibu

Secret Bay Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Blue Corner

Crystal Bay

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP

Kubutambahan

Sanda

Seminyak

BENOA HARBOUR

Taro

Kertakawat

Bubunan

Labuhan Haji

Pujungan

Buruan

Jemeluk

BucuBangbang

Padpadan

Delod Berawah

Sumbersari

PangkungdedariMelaya

Candikusuma

Banyubiru

Cupel

Munduk

Bayun

Jagaraga

Pemaron

Kaliasem

BuktiPacung

JulahBondalem

Sambirenteng

Tembok

Sekardadi

Kayubihi

Kayuambua

Sulahan

Buahan

Sengkidu

Tihingan

YehsumbulPesinggahan

Bajera

Selemadeg

Bantas

Kengetan

Kerobokan

Batubelig

MuncanAngantaka

Banyupoh

Lalanglinggah

Senganan

SembungTimbrah

Tegalasih

Petitenget

Penulisan

Kedisan

Subagan

Pandakgede

Sumberkima

Labuhan lalang

Tibubiyu

Mt. Agung3142

Pecatu

UngasanSawangan

KampialBualu

Mumbul

Kedonganan

Tuban

Tanjung Benoa

GelogorcarikPegok

Pesanggaran Blanjong

Renon

Padanggalak

SemawangBatujimbar

SindhuSanglah

Pengubengan

Legian

BrawaUmalas

Muding

Ubung

Canggu

BerabanYeh Gangga

Pejaten

KediriGubugBeraban

Kerambitan

Soka

AntosariSuraberata

Ngis

Timpag

Samsam

Blayu

Wanasari

Marga

Batusari

Denkayu

Sibang

Blahkiuh

Abiansemal

Sempidi

Darmasaba

Sibang

Tohpati

Sumerta

Lumintang

Singapadu

Batuan

Sakah

Lebih

BlahbatuhKemenuh

Bone

SidanKutri

Petulu

Bunutan

Bongkasa

Peliatan

Kawan

Petak

Akah

Selat

Sidemen

Talibeng

Mambal

Silakarang

MENJANGAN ISLAND

CekikSumberkelampok

Klatakan Blimbingsari

Airanakan

Perancak

Munduk

Yehkuning

Mendoyo

Batuagung

Yehbuah

BanyuwedangGoris Pulaki

MelantingGondol

PenyabanganMusi Gerokgak

Celukan BawangTegallenga

Kalisada

PengastulanSeririt

Ringdikit

Dencarik

Sidetapa

Cempaga

MayongBestalaPancoran

Temukus

Tigawasa

Kalibukbuk

AnturanSukasada

Panji

Banyuning

Pegayaman

Gitgit

Yehketipat

Bila

TamblangTegal

Bakungan

Bungkulan

Busungbiu

Subuk

Pupuan

Tista Batungsel

Belimbing

Munduk

Gobleg

Asah Gobleg

Tamblingan

Asahpanji

Candi Kuning

Pancasari

Kembangmerta

Pelaga

Catur

Penginyahan

Gentah

Bantang

Les

Tianyar

Muntidesa

Baturinggit

Culik Amed

Seraya

Jasri

Bugbug

Asak

Bebandem

Sibetan

Buitan

AbabiAbang

Manggis

Ulakan

GelgelKamasan

Dawan

TembukuIseh

Sindu

Selat

Sidakarya

Muncan

Rendang

SingarataMenanga

BuyanPempatan

Seribatu

PengotanPenyebah

Batur

Penulisan

Penelokan

NungkungPekaranganBaturiti

Pacung

Soka

ApuanAngantiga

Petang

Sandakan

Luwus

Jatiluwih

BabahanWongaya

Ampadan

PitraPenebel

Perean

Kuwum

Payangan

BukitCeking

NGURAH RAIINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

SERANGAN ISLAND

SebatuPujung

Puhu

LEMBONGAN ISLAND

CENINGAN ISLAND

NUSA PENIDA

Jungutbatu

Lembongan ToyapakehPed

TelagaKutampi

SampalanSentalkangin

MetakihGelagah

BayuhPonjok

Batukandik

Batumandeg PejukutanAmbenganPendem

Pelilit

TangladSoyorBungkit

Tabuanan RamoanSekartaji

Anta

SemayaSuana

Pidada

AsahdurenManggissari

PasebanSaren

Mt. Seraya1175

Mt. Batur1717

Mt. Abang2153

Mt. Catur2096

Mt. Batukaru2276

Mt. Merbuk1386

Mt. Mesehe1344

Mt. Musi1224

Jimbaran

Tejakula

Yehembang

Penuktukan

KubuRubaya

Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali) - Gili Islands (Lombok)

DENPASAR

TABANANGIANYAR

BANGLI

NEGARA

Taman Nasional Bali Barat(West Bali National Park)

SINGARAJA

AMLAPURA

KLUNGKUNG

Ferryto

Nusa

Penida

Ferry Padangbai (Bali) - Lembar (Lombok)

Batukaru

Padangbai

Gilimanuk

Banjar

Lake Bratan

Mas

Trunyan

Kuta

Lovina

Alas Kedaton

Candidasa

Lake Batur

Batubulan

Uluwatu

Sanur

Sangeh

Mengwi

Celuk

Sukawati

BeduluUBUD

Pemuteran

Sangsit Air Sanih

Lake TamblinganLake Buyan

Bedugul

Ujung

Tenganan

Tirta Gangga

Kusamba

Besakih

Kintamani

Tampaksiring

Nusa Dua

Tanah Lot

Tulamben

Sental

Japanese WreckBunutan

Goa Lawah

Silayukti

Lempuyang

Beji

Jasri

Keramas

Sanur

Serangan

GegerSuluban

Padang Padang

Bingin

Kuta

Canggu

Balian Beach

Medewi

Rambutsiwi

Ferry ChannelBlue LagoonTanjung SariTanjung Jepun

Shipwreck

Ferry to Java

Batuabah

BALI MAPLEGEND: Provincial capital Town Mountain LakePlaces of interest Village Temple Airport/Airstrip Harbour Surfing spotsDiving spots

50 10 15 20 25 35 40 45 50 km30

Jimbaran Bay

Legian Beach

San

urBe

ac

h

Kuta Beach

Canggu Beach

Nusa

Dua

Bea

ch

Medewi Beach

Balian BeachSoka Beach

TulambenB

ay

Amuk Bay

Candidasa Beach

Lo

vina Beach

L O M B O K S T R A I T

BA

LI

ST

RA

I T

B A L I S E A

BA

DU

NG

S T R A I T

I N D O NE S

I AN

OC

EA

N

Tegallalang

Sedihing

Pemuteran Reef Building

BiahaMimpang

Tepekong

Gili Selang

Jemeluk WallBunutan Reef

BuyukSD

Manta Point

Manta Point

Malibu

Secret Bay Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Blue Corner

Crystal Bay

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP

Kubutambahan

Sanda

Seminyak

BENOA HARBOUR

Taro

Kertakawat

Bubunan

Labuhan Haji

Pujungan

Buruan

Jemeluk

BucuBangbang

Padpadan

Delod Berawah

Sumbersari

PangkungdedariMelaya

Candikusuma

Banyubiru

Cupel

Munduk

Bayun

Jagaraga

Pemaron

Kaliasem

BuktiPacung

JulahBondalem

Sambirenteng

Tembok

Sekardadi

Kayubihi

Kayuambua

Sulahan

Buahan

Sengkidu

Tihingan

YehsumbulPesinggahan

Bajera

Selemadeg

Bantas

Kengetan

Kerobokan

Batubelig

MuncanAngantaka

Banyupoh

Lalanglinggah

Senganan

SembungTimbrah

Tegalasih

Petitenget

Penulisan

Kedisan

Subagan

Pandakgede

Sumberkima

Labuhan lalang

Tibubiyu

Mt. Agung3142

Pecatu

UngasanSawangan

KampialBualu

Mumbul

Kedonganan

Tuban

Tanjung Benoa

GelogorcarikPegok

Pesanggaran Blanjong

Renon

Padanggalak

SemawangBatujimbar

SindhuSanglah

Pengubengan

Legian

BrawaUmalas

Muding

Ubung

Canggu

BerabanYeh Gangga

Pejaten

KediriGubugBeraban

Kerambitan

Soka

AntosariSuraberata

Ngis

Timpag

Samsam

Blayu

Wanasari

Marga

Batusari

Denkayu

Sibang

Blahkiuh

Abiansemal

Sempidi

Darmasaba

Sibang

Tohpati

Sumerta

Lumintang

Singapadu

Batuan

Sakah

Lebih

BlahbatuhKemenuh

Bone

SidanKutri

Petulu

Bunutan

Bongkasa

Peliatan

Kawan

Petak

Akah

Selat

Sidemen

Talibeng

Mambal

Silakarang

MENJANGAN ISLAND

CekikSumberkelampok

Klatakan Blimbingsari

Airanakan

Perancak

Munduk

Yehkuning

Mendoyo

Batuagung

Yehbuah

BanyuwedangGoris Pulaki

MelantingGondol

PenyabanganMusi Gerokgak

Celukan BawangTegallenga

Kalisada

PengastulanSeririt

Ringdikit

Dencarik

Sidetapa

Cempaga

MayongBestalaPancoran

Temukus

Tigawasa

Kalibukbuk

AnturanSukasada

Panji

Banyuning

Pegayaman

Gitgit

Yehketipat

Bila

TamblangTegal

Bakungan

Bungkulan

Busungbiu

Subuk

Pupuan

Tista Batungsel

Belimbing

Munduk

Gobleg

Asah Gobleg

Tamblingan

Asahpanji

Candi Kuning

Pancasari

Kembangmerta

Pelaga

Catur

Penginyahan

Gentah

Bantang

Les

Tianyar

Muntidesa

Baturinggit

Culik Amed

Seraya

Jasri

Bugbug

Asak

Bebandem

Sibetan

Buitan

AbabiAbang

Manggis

Ulakan

GelgelKamasan

Dawan

TembukuIseh

Sindu

Selat

Sidakarya

Muncan

Rendang

SingarataMenanga

BuyanPempatan

Seribatu

PengotanPenyebah

Batur

Penulisan

Penelokan

NungkungPekaranganBaturiti

Pacung

Soka

ApuanAngantiga

Petang

Sandakan

Luwus

Jatiluwih

BabahanWongaya

Ampadan

PitraPenebel

Perean

Kuwum

Payangan

BukitCeking

NGURAH RAIINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

SERANGAN ISLAND

SebatuPujung

Puhu

LEMBONGAN ISLAND

CENINGAN ISLAND

NUSA PENIDA

Jungutbatu

Lembongan ToyapakehPed

TelagaKutampi

SampalanSentalkangin

MetakihGelagah

BayuhPonjok

Batukandik

Batumandeg PejukutanAmbenganPendem

Pelilit

TangladSoyorBungkit

Tabuanan RamoanSekartaji

Anta

SemayaSuana

Pidada

AsahdurenManggissari

PasebanSaren

Mt. Seraya1175

Mt. Batur1717

Mt. Abang2153

Mt. Catur2096

Mt. Batukaru2276

Mt. Merbuk1386

Mt. Mesehe1344

Mt. Musi1224

Jimbaran

Tejakula

Yehembang

Penuktukan

KubuRubaya

Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali) - Gili Islands (Lombok)

DENPASAR

TABANANGIANYAR

BANGLI

NEGARA

Taman Nasional Bali Barat(West Bali National Park)

SINGARAJA

AMLAPURA

KLUNGKUNG

Ferryto

Nusa

Penida

Ferry Padangbai (Bali) - Lembar (Lombok)

Batukaru

Padangbai

Gilimanuk

Banjar

Lake Bratan

Mas

Trunyan

Kuta

Lovina

Alas Kedaton

Candidasa

Lake Batur

Batubulan

Uluwatu

Sanur

Sangeh

Mengwi

Celuk

Sukawati

BeduluUBUD

Pemuteran

Sangsit Air Sanih

Lake TamblinganLake Buyan

Bedugul

Ujung

Tenganan

Tirta Gangga

Kusamba

Besakih

Kintamani

Tampaksiring

Nusa Dua

Tanah Lot

Tulamben

Sental

Japanese WreckBunutan

Goa Lawah

Silayukti

Lempuyang

Beji

Jasri

Keramas

Sanur

Serangan

GegerSuluban

Padang Padang

Bingin

Kuta

Canggu

Balian Beach

Medewi

Rambutsiwi

Ferry ChannelBlue LagoonTanjung SariTanjung Jepun

Shipwreck

Ferry to Java

Batuabah

PURI WIRATADive Resort & Spa

Le 48

Villa Sasoon

SANUR’S SEAFOOD SECRETS - A CRABBY TALE by ayu sekar and lisa

Sometimes the only thing that will do for dinner is

seafood and if it is fresh live mud crabs, cooked up a storm with spices and gravy – well so much the better. Of course crispy battered chunks of juicy fresh fish accompanied by chips, preferably accompanied by green mushy peas and a side of pickled onions are also divine.

Well these intrepid eaters dug around in Sanur’s byways and the highways and came up with some exciting discoveries – some old and some new

Sanurini Just off the Sanur bypass is a sweet little restaurant specialising in live prawns and crabs. The name Sanurini is based on the well traveled chef’s favorite island, Santorini in Greece – a clever play on words. Unsurprisingly, its décor is awash with white paint and cute seashell motifs. Their evolving menu gets better as as they try out recipes from guest chefs, but for now the highlight is the crabs in balado sauce, a popular spicy Indonesian

sambal. Don’t worry if the just the word chili sets your mouth on fire, as the friendly Taiwanese chef can adjust to your taste. The same goes for the equally tasty Tum Yum soup which he Americanizd to Tom Young! Or their salty egg crab and spicy mahi mahi fish soup are also worth a try.

Their most unique offering is Taiwanese bubble tea. The chewy balls are produced daily in different flavors and added to milk prepared with vanilla beans. It is definitely worth a try. They also serve freshly squeezed juices and smoothies in test tube type glasses so everyone

can sample mother nature’s bounty.

It is a cozy, friendly place located at the very top end of Jalan Danau Poso, the last turn-off to Sanur if heading south across the road from Man Frydays.

Man Frydays

Styled like a British fish and chip shop with additional British pub food and the odd Indian snack, Man Frydays is not too fancy, not too humble, but just right. Wooden benches and tables are sturdy enough to hold a large crowd and the impressive array of accompaniments – Heinz malt vinegar, tomato sauce, mustard – all the things to add zing to your serving.

A menu offers several varieties of fresh fish including mahi mahi, snapper, sword fish and the best is the mythical Bali cod, which tastes something like cod and is suitably delicious, and cooked to perfection with a crispy batter.

What is it that makes Manfrydays special? It is the very fresh fish and the attention to detail with reassuring bottles of Vinegar on the tables, the pickled onions in the big jar and the knowledge that it is going to be fabulous.

Manfrydays - Jl. Danau Poso No. 08, Sanur, Shop T: 0361 2031313Bookings: 081 246 5525 49 or 0857 3858 5755E: info@manfrydays.com

Around the corner in Jl Cemara the British/Irish pub,

The Cat & Fiddle serves up excellent British pub food and a fine fish and chips with to die for mushy peas! Cold Guiness, Kilkenny on tap and a great range of spirits as a good pub should have, this is another cute little place to while away the hours.

The Cat&Fiddle Bar and Restaurant, Jl Cemara No. 36 Sanur, Bali, T: 0361 282218

Wandering further afield, onto the Bypass we came across a little blue warung squeezed in between

McDonalds and the Arena Pub. This street has become filled with big shiny franchise restos yet this humble little blue place probably serves the best food, and certainly the most authentic!

Called Depot Sari Laut, the first thing we were met with on entering was a huge basket of live crabs fresh delivered from Kalimantan. Big fat mud crabs that cost a bomb in fancier places were here for the enjoyment. Prawns and other seafood is also available and the willing owner cook can serve them according to your taste. A crab lovers paradise it is to be sure!

Depot Sari Laut - Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 8A, Sanur, BaliT: 0361 3826 / 081338625479

SANUR EATING

70 UbudLife

Visitors to Bali often comment on the many dogs roaming the streets and guarding the gates to family compounds. Because of the wide variation in colouring they are often mistaken for mutts or mongrels, but in fact the Bali Dog is a distinct breed. Researchers at the University of California Davis believe

that the Bali Dog, with its unique and valuable gene pool, may be the oldest dog on earth.

Between 2000 and 2003, Dr Niels Pederson from the Veterinary Genetics Laboratory at University of California Davis led a team that tested the DNA of 3,500 indigenous dogs from all over Bali. Bali has two unique indigenous dogs, the Bali Dog and the highland Kintamani which have been living on the island virtually unaltered for at least 5,000 years. Genetic research shows that the ancestry of the

Bali Dog can be traced back about 15,000 years.

According to Dr Pederson, Bali’s dogs are the richest pool of genetic diversity of all the dogs on the world. “The true pure canine breed is the indigenous Bali Dog,” said Dr Pedersen. “Its lineage goes all the way back to the first proto-dogs that evolved from the wolves. Their genes are highly valuable for

further research, as they are a window on the ancestral dog.”

Bali’s Very Special Dogby ibu kat • image ayu sekar

UbudLife 71

ANIMAL LIFE

Although expats and tourists become emotional about vanishing species such as the orangutan, Bali Starling, Java rhino and the many other creatures which are rapidly disappearing across Indonesia, the ubiquitous Bali Dog remains invisible to conservationists. There seem to be so many of them -- too many, some say. Yet this precious and unique pool of DNA is quickly becoming contaminated by the introduction of imported dogs.

Because the Bali Dog is not yet a formally recognized breed, it is not being bred for purity. After thousands of years of uncontaminated DNA, the Bali Dog is now under threat from casual inbreeding with imported dogs. The so-called ‘breed dogs’ are a status symbol here, but many are products of uncontrolled puppy mills where extreme inbreeding is the norm. Casual interbreeding with imported dogs introduces their weaker genes. The Bali Dog is as much part of Bali’s heritage as the Bali Starling and its gene pool should be protected.

The Bali Dog is medium sized and short-haired, usually with a slim, sickle or tightly curled tail and large, upright ears. That being said, because the Bali Dog is so genetically diverse, it presents many different ear and tail types as well as colours.

The Bali Dog may be black or white, or white with black or brown spots or patches of various sizes. There’s a wide variety of beautiful brindles including grey and black, solid brown with caramel and black stripes, and the more common sandy brown variety with black stripes. The most unusual colours for a Bali Dog are pure golden and grey. Also rare and highly sought after for ceremonial sacrifice is the un-neutered male pure brown variety with a black muzzle and face. Genetic testing proves that regardless of the wide range of colour and markings, all these dogs shared the same pure DNA pool.

Bali Dogs make wonderful pets. Once the owner has won its trust, it can be highly trained. This is naturally a very clean dog and many owners claim that it seems to house train itself from an early age. The

breed is extremely adaptable to many situations and climates, even growing a thicker coat when moved to colder parts of the world. Its wide genetic diversity makes it immune to the diseases and genetic disorders typical of selectively bred dogs. If well looked after, the breed can live over 16 years. There are stories of Bali Dogs travelling many miles across country to return to their original homes.

Although they like to run in packs and make a lot of noise, the breed is seldom aggressive and bites are rare if the dog is not provoked. They hate to be confined and can easily clear walls of over three meters high, from the tops of which they also like to survey their territory. They’re commonly known as ‘street dogs’ because of their love of running free and socializing with each other, and although they may seem feral almost all Bali Dogs are in fact owned. They’re commonly seen hanging out in the doorways of their home compounds, alert to intruders. These dogs are smart and funny and often have huge personalities. They are great guard dogs; their distinctive barks alerting their owners to different kinds of intruders (“Snake!” “Stranger!” “Evil Spirits!”).

Before plastic arrived in Bali, these dogs played an important part in the ecosystem by consuming the organic waste. Enthusiastic ratters, they also had a strong role in managing the rodent population on the island. When the government started culling dogs after the 2008 rabies outbreak, the rice harvest in some areas where the dogs had been eliminated was destroyed by the uncontrolled rat population. Bali Dogs also keep snakes and other unwelcome wildlife away from the house.

So if you’re in the market for a dog, why not choose the breed with the oldest and strongest genetic heritage, best adapted to the local climate, a terrific guard dog and a smart, funny companion -- the Bali Dog. To adopt a Bali Dog or if you see an injured dog on the street, call BAWA at 081 1389004 or BARC at 0361 975 038. Remember that these are charities, so please make a donation when you take a rescued dog in for care....

Turning the corner to arrive at Candidasa I always experience a huge of pleasure. The

sea is always clear, a fresh sea breeze is blowing and it is like a big welcome as the sky widens and the tang of the sea lifts your spirits.

This little seaside town is always fun to visit. Behind that big facade of highway and hotels and little tourist shops, there are so many things to discover. The beach is still beautiful and the water is divine – fresh and cool and clear as ice. In places you will find patches of white beach and strands of coconut palms. But beyond that there are surprises and things to discover.

Accommodation ranges from cheap and cheerful lodgings to luxurious villas hidden away - up and down the coast, some where you would least expect them.

One of these great discoveries is the Villa Sasoon. Tucked into the edge of a coconut plantation, this cluster of private villas makes a perfect getaway or holiday base. Each villa is comes with a nice wall around it, affording total privacy for the inhabitants of the moment. An open kitchen/lounge area is shared by the two bedrooms. Each one is free standing with air conditioned bedrooms, with full facilities and gorgeous open bathrooms. For a group of friends or family it is perfect. At breakfast time, a waiter will come in and prepare your fresh fruit, coffee and bacon and eggs in the morning, if you like, or guests can do it themselves if they prefer privacy. While it is quiet and off the main road, Candidasa central is just a few minutes walk away!

Candidasa – Queen of the East Freida K visits the beachside town of Candidasa

About twenty minutes away is the Pasir Putih – or Virgin White Sand Beach. Although it is not as virgin as it was a year or two ago, it is still the best beach within easy reach of Ubud. The long stretch of white sand beach is lined with coconut groves and warungs selling cold beers, fresh fish and salad dishes. You can even eat with your toes in the sand – always a delightful experience! Shaded beach beds by the afternoon waves make for ideal lounging.

OUT OF TOWN

Those who have time on their hands can take a spin down to Padang Bai – about forty minutes away. This picturesque fishing village and ferry harbor is known for its fine snorkeling on the nearby Blue Lagoon, just minutes from the main bay. Take time. Explore. It’s fun.

There is always more to discover in the east....

There are plenty of good food spots

to try in Candidasa. Try Le 48 for a special, French accented or Indonesian meal in a cute open restaurant in open surroundings. Their hotel rooms are clustered around a huge lawn and big open pool area – very nice to while away an hour or two.

Le 48 - Jl Raya Candidasa 48 – main roadT: 0363 41177, www.le48bali.com

For a more Indonesian style

experience, try Lé-Zat you can get your own table right on the beach, or sit in the main restaurant and just look down to the beach below. Their seafood is excellent – lobster, shrimp, and fresh, fresh fish is also available and definitely worth a try. They also have pleasantly cosy rooms at the adjoining Ashyana Hotel that are reasonably priced.

Le Zat - Jl Raya Candidasa – beachside. T: 0363 41538/41539, www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

The hinterland of Candidasa is supremely beautiful

• verdant hills are clothed in mist in the early mornings, ocean views, and hidden villages are ensconsed in the hills. Not to be missed is Tenganan, a very pretty traditional village just a few kilometres from town. Here life goes on pretty much as always with few interruptions from the modern world. A calendar of amazing ceremonies keeps the community busy all year. While the busiest months are June and July, there are always interesting things happening there. It is also a centre for traditional weaving, famous throughout the world. Check it out!

Jl. Raya Candidasa no.48 (main road)Candidasa 80851

Karangasem - East BaliT: +62 363 41177

E: le48balihotel@gmail.com www.le48bali.com

“A cozy place to stay & dine right by the beautiful Candidasa Lagoon”Serving French & Indonesian menu - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

78 UbudLife

The Sekumpul WaterfallHidden away high in the hills above Sudaji

Village east of Singaraja lies Bali’s most beautiful and holy Waterfall. With

waters gathering from the surrounding jungle and the

mountains to the south, the falls are running all year.

People love to come here to meditate or as part of

a retreat from the nearby Omunity Retreat in the

Sudaji Village....www.omunitybali.com

DISCOVERY

We meet another interesting mystery person who has made their home in Bali.

Yoga? Is it for you? _ Ubud has become a world renowned yoga centre and here we explore some of the best places and teachers in town.

RAW – do you like your food raw? Or do you prefer it cooked? We look at some of the RAW issues.

Ubud Life heads out of town to discover what its like to stay silent for three days in Tabanan.

Night Markets – Ubud used to have a delightful night market or Pasar Senggol as its known in Indonesia. Sadly it was closed down and now we need to make the trip to Gianyar or some smaller clumps of food stalls hidden around Ubud’s outer limits.

nEXT ISSUEimage putu santosa

Bale Udang RestaurantJl. Raya Goa Gajah, UbudPhone: 0361 978754www.baleudang.com

BridgesJl. Raya Campuan, UbudPhone: 0361 970095www.bridgesbali.com

Biah BiahJl. Goutama, UbudPhone: 0361 978249

Biah-Biah+Jl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 8015124

Bollero Bar & RestoJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 972872www.bollerobali.com

Cafe Des ArtistesJl. Bisma 9x, UbudPhone: 0361 972706www.cafedesartistesbali.com

CP LOUNGEJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 978954www.cp-lounge.com

Down To EarthJl. Gootama Selatan, UbudPhone: 03617835545

Damar RestaurantJl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 978374

Dolce Arancia RestaurantJl. Gotama 17, UbudPhone: 0361 7802381

Griya RestaurantJl. Raya Ubud, UbudPhone: 0361 975428

Gedong SisiJl. Raya Ubud, UbudPhone: 0361 977276www.gedongsisi.com

Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, UbudPhone: 973472www.iburai.com

Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 971056

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATION

Alam Ubud VillaDesa Kendran, Tegallalang, UbudPhone: 0361 8790999www.alamubudvilla.com

Arma ResortJl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 976659www.armaresort.com

Cendana Resort & SpaJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 973243www.cendanaresort-spa.com

Gunung Merta BungalowJl. Andong, Peliatan, UbudPhone: 0361 975463

Kupu Kupu BarongJl. Kedewatan, UbudPhone: 0361 975478www.dewanggaubud.com

Melati CottagesJl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, UbudPhone: 0361 974650www.melati-cottages.com

Ubud Sari Health ResortJl. Kajeng, UbudPhone: 0361 974393www.ubudsari.com

Sri Ratih CottagesJl. Raya Campuhan 1, UbudPhone: 0361 975638www.sriratih.com

Tepi Sawah VillasJl. Goa Gajah, Peliatan, UbudPhone: 0361 970388www.tepisawahvillas.com

Terrace Abing ResortBanjar Kebon, Tegallalang, UbudPhone: 0361 980970www.abingterrace.com

Villa Beji IndahBanjar Nyuh Kuning, UbudPhone: 0361 974168

KebunJl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubudwww.kebunbistro.com

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, UbudPhone: 0361 970992

Lotus Lane Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 975357www.lotus-restaurants.com

NOMADJl. Raya Ubud 35, UbudPhone: 0361 977169www.nomad-bali.com

Sri Ratih Cafe & JewelryJl. Raya Campuhan 1, UbudPhone: 0361 975638www.sriratih.com

Kafe TopiJl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, UbudPhone: 0361 8235151

Warung Sopa GardenJl. Nyuh Kuning 2, UbudPhone: 0361 2801340

Warung AlamiJl. Penestanan, UbudPhone: 081 23913754

Warung Merta SariJl. Uma Suke Wayah, UbudPhone: 0361 2021892

Warung PerancisJl. Cok Rai 77, Teges, Mas, UbudPhone: 0361 978109

White BoxJl. Raya Andong, UbudPhone: 0361 979059www.whiteboxbali.com

CP LoungeJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 978954www.cp-lounge.com

Cafe HavanaJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 972973www.cafehavanabali.com

Damar Restaurant, Bar & LoungeJl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 978374

NIGHT LIFE

UbudLife 81

82 UbudLife82 UbudLife

Sari Api CeramicsJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 971056

CERAMICS

Pandi [Painter]Jl. Ume Subak Sok Wayah, UbudMobile: 081 338389169

Wayan Suarmadi [Painter]Jl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 978197

Wayan Sila [Owl House]Jl. Bisma, UbudPhone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

ARTISTS

GALLERIES

Pilar Batu GalleryJl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 978197www.pilarbatu.com

Sari Api GalleryContemporary Handmade CeramicJl. Raya Sanggingan, UbudPhone: 082 3831 5697

Tanah Tho GalleryJl. Raya Lodtunduh, UbudPhone: 0361 981482www.tanahtho.com

SHOPS

DYPTJl. Goutama 15, UbudPhone:62 81338301013www.dyptemporium.com

Goddess On The GoJl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 976084www.goddessonthego.net

Nirmala - Work On T’shirtJl. Hanoman 2, UbudPhone: 0361 7475404

Rainbow SpiritJl. Hanoman 38, UbudPhone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Studio PerakJl. Hanoman, UbudPhone: 0361 974244Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 081 236 51809www.dketut37@yahoo.com

SISIJl.Nyuh Kuning No.2, UbudPhone: 0361 8235151www.sisibag.com

YINJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 970718Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 7801879www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

SPAS

Aura Theraphy SpaUbud Aura Retreat CenterJl. Hanoman 888, UbudPhone: 0361 972956www.ubudaura.com

Bali Healing SpaJl. Raya Ubud, UbudPhone: 0361 27997658www.balihealingspa.com

Bali Botanical Day SpaJl. Raya Sanggingan, UbudPhone: 0361 976739

FRESH SpaJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 8493677

KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation SpaYoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 971236www.yogabarn.com/kush

Kayma SpaJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 9100017www.karmaspaubud.com

Milano SalonMonkey Forest Road, UbudPhone: 0361 973488prs_milano@yahoo.com

Modena Day Spa & SalonMonkey Forest Road, UbudPhone: 0361 970724www.modenadayspa.com

Sedona SpaJl. Raya Campuhan, UbudPhone: 0361 975770www.sedonaspa-ubud.com

SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing SalonJl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com

Taksu Spa and RestaurantJl. Gotama Selatan, UbudPhone: 0361 971490www.taksuspa.com

Ubud Wellness SpaJl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 970493www.ubudwellness-balispa.com

PROPERTY

Red Lotus PropertyJl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, UbudPhone: 970980www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

Yoga BarnJl. Pengosekan, Ubud-BaliPhone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

Intuitive FlowJl. Penestanan, Ubud-BaliPhone: 977824 | Mobile: 081 23924649www.intuitiveflow.com

YOGA CENTRE

UbudLife 83UbudLife 83

CONSULATES

USEFUL NUMBERS

MUSEUMS

ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art )Jl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 974228

Antonio Blanco Renaissance MuseumJl. Raya Campuhan, UbudPhone: 975502

Museum Puri Lukisan UbudJl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, GianyarPhone: 975136

Neka Art MuseumJl. Raya SangginganPhone: 975074

Pendet MuseumJl. Nyuh Kuning, UbudPhone: 971338

Rudana MuseumJl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, UbudPhone: 975779

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Ashyana CandidasaJl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Le-Zat RestaurantJl. Raya Candidasa, KarangasePhone: 0363 41538, 41539www.balicateringservices.com

Le 48 Hotel & RestaurantJl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Puri Wirata Dive Resort and SpaJl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523www.puriwirata.com

Air Bali HelicopterBenoa Harbor, PesanggaranPhone: 0361 767466www.airbali.com

Bali Adventure RaftingBypass Ngurah Rai, PesanggaranPhone: 0361 721480www.baliadventuretours.co

SEPEDA BALIGreen Adventure CyclingJl. Nyuh Bojog, UbudPhone: 0361 978631www.sepedabali.com

SPORT/RECREATION

EAST BALI SECTION

Tirta Ayu Hotel & RestaurantJl.Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503www.hoteltirtagangga.com

Villarossa CandidasaJl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062www.villarossa.org

Villa SasoonJl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511www.villasasoon.com

Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & SpaJl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540www.watergardenhotel.com

Honesty is a lonely worldMany moons ago when one was studying in a Jesuit

college an incident occurred that remains embedded in a living breathing past. It was a conversation I had with a Jesuit priest on the subject of truth, honesty and other little things that matter least to many of us. When I became argumentative he turned to me, put his hand on my shoulder looked me straight in the eye and said, ‘Prostitutes are the most honest people on earth”. Then he turned and walked back to the college.

I suppose he is right. They are the receptacles for humanity’s festering carnal iniquities. They service humanity’s lasciviousness. They do not pretend to be anything else but people who expect to be paid for their acts of intimacy. Yet they are despised. Hounded. Beaten. Abused. Trafficked.

How ironic that the very people we despise, use and misuse are the most honest people on earth. Maybe there is a moral hiding somewhere in the hem of a skirt.

Perhaps if we found answers to the following questions it could clear a path through the dense undergrowth of pretence.

When are we going to acknowledge that honesty has nothing to do with religion and its appendage - religious ceremonies?

When are we going to accept the burden of honesty when it comes calling to tickle our nocturnal senses, and succumb to it?

When are we going to shrug off the guilt of being human with all its fallibilities and embrace life with honesty?

Maybe this will never happen because the masks are all in place. Masks of respectability, marital bliss, decency (whatever this means) and the inevitability of living the great lie – I AM.

Instead we will continue to hear oxymorons flying thick and fast: honest businessman, truthful politician, devout religious leader et al.

It is as if a veil of deceit covers us. A veil which we refuse to remove for fear of revealing our true selves – beasts without an iota of honesty.

Could it be that many among us are prostitutes in some manner or the other, honestly plying our trade be it in business, politics or religion? And that we refuse to reveal our honesty because we dread being ridiculed?

I shall leave you now with this quote from Blithe Spirit by Noel Coward -

“It’s discouraging to think how many people are shocked by honesty and how few by deceit.”

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om...

Mark UlyseasPublisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

LAST WORD

Mark Ulyseas

UbudLife 84