tx 374

LAB MANUAL

TX-374 TEXTILE TESTING LAB

School of Science and Technology University of Management and Technology

C-II, Johar Town, Lahore-54770, Pakistan http:/www.umt.edu.pk

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Table of Contents

1. pH VALUE TEST 03

2. COLOR FASTNESS TO LAUNDERING 05

3. COLOR FASTNESS TO CROCKING 08

4. ICI PILLING TEST 12

5. COLOR FASTNESS TO LIGHT 14

6. DETERMINIATION OF YARN 17

7. COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION 20

8. COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER 22

9. COLOR FASTNESS TO SEA WATER 24

10. FABRIC COUNT TEST 26

11. SHRINKAGE TEST 28

12. FABRIC SQUARE WEIGHT CHECK TEST 32

13. TRIM STRETCH AND RECOVRY TEST 34

14. FIBERS IDENTIFICATION TEST 36

15. SPIRALITY TEST 41

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LAB # 1

pH. VALUE TEST

1: PURPOSE:

To determine the efficiency of the washing operation after various wet treatments particularly bleaching. It is expressed on a scale whose values run from 0 – 14 with 7 representing neutrality numbers less than 7 increasing alkalinity.

2: APPARATUS AND MATERIALS: 2.1: Distilled water. 2.2: Beaker 500 ml. 2.3: PH. Meter. 2.4: Watch glass. 2.5: Glass stick. 2.6: Fabric (for test). 2.7: Hot plate.

3: TEST PROCEDURE 3.1: Boil 250 ml distilled water at a moderate rate for 10 minutes. 3.2: Put small pieces of the fabric(10 grams).

3.3: Cover the beaker with watch glass and boil for an additional 10minutes. 3.4: Allow covered beaker to cool room temperature. 3.5: Remove the fabric pieces with tweezers. 3.6: Determine the pH. of the extract using pH-meter or litmus paper.

4: EVALUATION:

The pH. of the water extract depends on the chemical treatment previously given to the material. Evaluation against the scale mentioned above and follow the buyer’s requirement.

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Worksheet

Experiment-1 Group#:………………………… Names:

1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Sample After Boil

From the experiment:

1. Quantity of Water used:

2. Temperature

3. Time:

4. pH of the bath at the start:

5. pH of the fabric / Extract:

6. Summarize the experiment in your own words, with mentioning the following points:

A. Why pH measurement is important in textile wet processing?

B. Why pH measurement is important for White fabrics?

C. What is the other method of pH measurement?

Sample

After boil

Sample

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LAB # 2

COLOR FASTNESS TO LAUNDERING

1: PURPUSE: The fabric color loss and surface changes resulting from detergent solution and abrasive action of six typical hands by on 45 minutes test, (Time will be according to the buyer’s requirement. Consult with manual)

2: APPARATUS AND MATERIAL: 2.1: Launder-O-Meter or similar apparatus for rating closed containers in a

thermostatically controlled water bath at 40 + 2 rpm 2.2: Stainless steel containers. 2.3: Adopter plates for holding containers on Launder-O-Meter shaft. 2.4: Stainless steel balls. 2.5: Grey scale. (For staining and color change) 2.6: Teflon gaskets. (For container lids) 2.7: Multi fiber. (Silk, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic and Wool) 2.8: Standard detergent. 2.9: Distilled water. 2.10: Test specimen. (2x6) 2.11: Beaker. (For solution) 2.12: Stick. (For shake the solution) 2.13: Hot plate.

3: TEST PROCEDURE: 3.1: Take distilled water. (One liter) 3.2: Temperature of water (80°C - 90°C)

3.3: Put the two grams detergent (According to buyer’s requirement. Consult with manual) and shake till five minutes.

3.4: Let it cool at 40°C – 45°C. (Solution is prepa red) 3.5: Solution should be fresh. 3.6: Take the fabric swatch (2x6)and make sandwich taking multi fiber

between them. Make sure the wool should be at the top. 3.7: Put only one staple at the top. 3.8: Take the temperature of launder-O-meter at 49°C. 3.9: Put 50 steel balls,150 ml solution and swatch in container. Ensure that

the containers are tight and balanced. You may use dummy load as well.

3.10: Set the time at 45 minutes. (According to the buyer’s requirement. Consult with manual)

3.11: After the completion of the test, wash the swatch with cold water properly.

3.12: Tested specimens to condition at room temperature 65 + 2% relative humidity and 21°C + 1°C for one hour or until drying before evaluating .

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4: EVALUATION.

4.1: Access the staining of multi fiber on cotton, polyester, nylon using

AATCC 10 point Grey scale for staining. 4.2: Access the color change of the tested sample using AATCC Grey scale

for color change.

5: STANDERD. 5.1: 3 or better for color staining.(According to the buyer’s standard. Consult

with manual) 5.2: 4 or better for color change.(According to the buyer’s standard. Consult

with manual)

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Worksheet

Experiment-2 (CF to Laundry)

Group#:………………………… Names:

1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Original After-wash

Multi-fiber strip


1. Give rating of Color Staining on Different Fibers

Fiber

Rating

2. Change of Color:

3. Sample Size:

4. Liquor Ratio:

5. Detergent Type / amount:

6. No. of Steel Balls:

7. pH of the Bath:

Sample

Sample

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8. Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of

each step (use separate sheet)

LAB # 3

COLOR FASTNESS TO CROCKING

1: PURPOSE:

This test method is designed to determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to other surface by rubbing.

2: APPARTUS AND MATERIALS:

2.1: AATCC Crock meter. 2.2: Test specimen. (Colored)

2.3: Blotting paper or woven cloth. (2 inch. Square) 2.4: AATCC Grey scale for staining.

2.5: Distilled water. 2.6: Specimen holder for crock meter. 2.7: Clip for blotting paper.

3: TEST PROCEDURE: 3.1: DRY CROCKING:

3.1.1: Place a test specimen (2x6 inch cut diagonally) on the base of the crock meter with its long dimensions in the direction of rubbing.

3.1.2: Place specimen holder over specimen to avoid slippage. 3.1.3: Mount the blotting paper (2x2 square) over the end of the finger which project

downward from the weighted sliding. The wave should be parallel to the rubbing direction.

3.1.4: Lower the covered finger on to the test specimen and give 10 strokes at the rate of one turn per second.

3.1.5: Remove the blotting paper and give it four hours conditioning (21+1°C temperature) then evaluate.

3.2: WET CROCKING:

3.2.1: For wet crocking take one drop of distilled water on the blotting paper. 3.2.2: Squeeze the blotting paper in white fabric. (65+5% moisture approximately) 3.2.3: Remove the blotting paper and give it four hours conditioning (21+1°C

temperature) then evaluate.

4: EVALUTION:

4.1: Rate the amount of color transferred from the specimen to the blotting paper with the help of the AATCC Grey scale for staining.

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4.2: Put here layers of blotting paper under the tested blotting paper while evaluating.

5: STANDARDS: 5.1: 4 or better is acceptable for dry crocking. (According to the buyer’s standard.

Consult with manual) 5.2: 3 or better is acceptable for wet crocking (According to the buyer’s standard.

Consult with manual)

NOTE: Standards for dark shades, printing and pigment dyeing are: 3 or better for dry crocking.(According to the buyer’s standard. Consult with manual). 2 or better for wet crocking.(According to the buyer’s standard. Consult with manual).

Instructor Verification:

It is verified that all the steps in this experiment were done properly.

___________ Signature

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Notes: Wet rubbing fastness of textiles: Rubbing fastness (crock fastness) is defined as the resistance of all types of dyed and printed textiles to rubbing and to staining of other textiles as a result of rubbing during use. It does not include staining caused by abrasion of coarse fiber particles. A distinction is made between wet and dry rubbing fastness. The test method used to determine rubbing fastness is specified in ISO 105-X12 (DIN 54021). Dry rubbing fastness is not generally a problem as all common systems (fibers, dyes, dyeing and printing processes) normally meet the most common standard for dry rubbing fastness (grade 4 on the grey scale for staining of adjacent fibers). By contrast, wet rubbing fastness remains a major problem for deep shades. The maximum wet rubbing fastness grade obtained for many dyeing and prints in deep shades such as black, navy and Bordeaux is only 2. The reason for the low wet rubbing fastness of dyeing and prints on cellulosic fibers is that the fibers split into fine fibrils which break off during fastness testing. This results in poor rubbing fastness values. Poor rubbing fastness results are even obtained for reactive dyes, which form a genuine chemical bond with the fiber and thus cannot be split off by rubbing. Even if unfixed reactive dyes are washed off properly after dyeing or printing and the other wet fastness properties meet the specifications set, rubbing fastness tends to be low. The results of rubbing fastness tests are affected by variety of factors, even if the test unit and adjacent fabric comply with the standards set. Factors influencing the outcome include

• type of fiber • stability of the textile material • surface structure of the yarn or fabric • dyestuff class • dyeing or printing process and depth of shade • type of pretreatment • type of after treatment • type of finish • moisture content

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Worksheet

Experiment-3 (CF to Crocking)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Tested

Sample

Dry

Crocking

(attach Crocking fabric

GRADING

Wet

Crocking

(attach Crocking

fabric

GRADING


1. Give rating of Color Staining (Both dry and wet)

2. Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of each step (use separate sheet)

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LAB # 4

ICI PILLING TEST 1: PURPOSE:

This test is use to cover the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface change on the textile fabrics using ICI pills box. The procedure is generally applicable to all type of woven and knitted fabrics.

2: APPARTUS AND MATERIALS: 2.1: ICI Pills box 2.2: Mounted samples 2.3: Plastics tubes 3: TEST PROCEDURE: 3.1: Ensure the pill box is free from pills and lint. 3.2: Place the four mounted samples in the same box. 3.3: Seal the box shut. 3.4: Set the rev counter for 12000 revs. 3.5: Start the machine at 60 rpm. 3.6: When cycle has been completed remove the samples. 3.7: Remove tape and cut along the seam/

3.8: Mount samples on pilling test sheet, with two samples vertical nd the other two horizontal and a piece of untested in the centre.

3.9: Assess and grade. Subjectively assess and grade samples individually to the following standards

Value Description 5 No change 4 Slight change 3 Moderate change 2 Significant change 1 Severe change

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Worksheet

Experiment-4 (ICI Pilling Test)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ………………………………………. 4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………….

Origin

Original Sample After Pilling Sample



2. Ratings of specimen 3. Running time

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LAB # 5

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT 1: PURPOSE:

This test imitates exposure of the textile materials to light in an artificial setting with controlled conditions. Any textile material including those with colorants, finishes, and treatments may be used.

2: Test options include:

A – Carbon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light B – Sunlight(Discontinued)

C – Daylight D – Carbon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark E – Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light F – Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark G – Fastness above L-7 (Discontinued) H – Air-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light I – Air-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark

For the purposes of the Quality Assurance class, you will be using Option E to examine colorfastness.

3: TEST PROCEDURE:

Conditions for the appropriate procedure are determined and programmed into the Weatherometer. The cut samples are placed in specimen plates and mounted on a turning apparatus inside the machine. The Weatherometer is run for the specified time period to expose the specimens to prescribed xenon lamp irradiance, temperature, relative humidity. After completion of the cycle and the cool-down period, specimens are prepared for comparison.

4: APPARTUS AND MATERIALS:

4.1: Weather-O-meter 4.2: Specimen mounting plate 4.3: White Card Stock Backing 4.4: Pre-Cut Fabric Swatch of Material 5 x 11cm 4.5: AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change

5: Weather-O-Meter Conditions (Option E):

5.1: Light Source – Xenon 5.2: Light Monitors & Controls - Optional 5.3: Lamp Cooling – Water 5.4: Black Panel Temperature – 63 � 1�C Dry Bulb Temperature – 43 � 2�C 5.5: Relative Humidity – 35 �5 5.6: Light Cycles – Continuous

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6: Sample Preparation:

6.1: Cut a 5 x 11cm sample. 6.2: Condition sample in dry oven for 24 hours prior to testing.

6.3: Place the sample into the frame with “technical face” facing down. Next, slide the white card backing into the frame (should be touching the “technical back” of the fabric sample). Last, slide the clamp into the frame. Twist clamps to secure fabric and white card backing.

6.4: Check the framed sample to ensure the fabric face is smooth. (without wrinkles or folds)

7: Loading the Weather-O-Meter:

7.1: Samples are hung on the circular specimen rack inside the chamber. 7.2: Hang the samples on the rack by placing the “technical face” of the fabric

towards the center. Push the “hooks” down onto the top circular bar. 7.3: Turn the rack clockwise to allow more room for specimens. 7.4: Hang sample so that the entire circle is filled with specimen frames. 7.5: If there are not enough samples to fill the rack, use frames holding white

samples cards to fill the empty spaces. The blanks must be dispersed evenly throughout the rack to ensure even light reflection.

7.6 Start the Weather-O-Meter and allow to run through the 20 hour cycle

and the cool-down period. Evaluation:

1. Compare sample fabric to the control fabric that was previously cut out. 2. Use the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change to evaluate results. 3. Conduct the comparison in the light box with the setting at D65. 4. Record color change.

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Worksheet

Experiment-5 (CF to Light)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Original After


Evaluation Report: Include the following information for a report of colorfastness:

1. Type of test apparatus, elapsed exposure time 2. Temperatures Controlled by (�C): Ambient (Dry Bulb), Black Panel, Black Standard 3. Percent Relative Humidity 4. AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change Rating 5. Report any deviation from this method or the performance of the standard of

comparison. 6. Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of


Sample

Sample

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LAB # 6

DETERMINIATION OF YARN TWIST

1: PURPOSE AND SCOPE:

1.1: Following test method is used to determine twist in all single spun yarns and 100% cotton open-end yearns. For all open-end spun that are not 100% cotton, this test method has not been found to be satisfactory for determining twist but may be used to measure deviation from an average value.

1.2: Yarn has “S” twist if, when the yarn is held in vertical position, the visible spirals or helices around its central axis conform in direction of slope to the central portion of the letter “S” and the yarn has “Z” twist if the visible spirals or helices more yarns, either single or plied are twisted together, the letters “S” and “Z” are used in a similar manner to indicate the last twist inserted.

2: APPARATUS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED: 2.1: Twist tester with all accessories. 2.2: Yarn for testing.

2.3: Calculator for calculation. 3: PROCEDURE:

3.1: Take four yarn cones from a single dispatch and condition them 3.2: Clip the yarn from a conditioned cone to the twist tester. 3.3: Attach the weight (an accessory of twist tester) to the yarn at ten-inch distance

form the point of clipping. Remember not cut the yarn from the cone/package side.

3.4: Check the counter meter of twist tester. Meter should be at zero. 3.5: Pull the needle lever to let the needle on the twist tester move freely. 3.6: Push the speed lever on the Twist tester to star the test. At this point the

needle starts to move in left direction. 3.7: When the needle return at the starting point, stop the speed lever and note the

counter meter reading. 3.8: Calculate the yarn twist according following formula: 3.9: Twist per Inch (TPI) equals counter meter reading divided by10. 3.10: Twist Multiplier factor (TMF) equals TPI divided by yarn count.

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WorksheetWorksheetWorksheetWorksheet Experiment-6 Group#:…………………………

Names:

1. ...……………………………. ……...

2. …………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Yarn # A Reading

Yarn # B Reading

Yarn # C Reading

Yarn # D Reading

Average Reading

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Evaluation Report: Include the following information for a report of colorfastness:

1. Type of test apparatus 2. Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of


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LAB # 7

COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

PURPOSE:

This test is determining the fastness of colored textile to the effect of human perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed or other wise colored textile fibers.

1: APPARTUS OR MATERIAL:

1.1: Perspiration tester. (Plastic/glass plate are available with the equipment) 1.2: Drying oven. 1.3: Multi fiber.

1.4: Test specimen. (Colored) 1.5: Grey scale for staining/color change. 1.6: Distilled water.

1.7: Wringer. 1.8: NaCl, NaH2 PO4 2H2O, C6 H9 O2 N3 HCl H2O.

2: ACID SOLUTION: 2.1: Take one liter distilled water. 2.2: 10 g Sodium Chloride. 2.3: 1 g Lactic acid, USP 85% 2.4: 1 g Disodium hydrogen phosphate, anhydrous (Ha2 HPO4)

2.5: 025 g Histidine Monohydro Chloride.

NOTE: The Ph of this solution should be 4.3 + 0.2 as established by use an accurate Ph meter.

3: TEST PROCEDURE: 3.1: Cut a specimen (2.25x2.25 inch) of the dyed material. 3.2: Take equal size of Multi fiber and sew or staple with fabric.

3.3: Make a sandwich of them. 3.4: Immerses the test specimen in the required fresh solution for 15-30

minutes with occasional agitation and squeezing. 3.5: Put the specimen between the plates. 3.6: plates (10 rb pressure) and lock the pressure plates. 3.7: Remove the weight and put the unit in the oven. 3.8: Heat the loaded specimen in an oven at 38 + 1 °C 3.9: For at least 6 hours.

4: EVALUTION:

Evaluate the color transferred against AATCC gray scale for color change and gray scale for staining.

NOTE: This test standard are according to the buyer’s standard.

Concern with manual.

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Worksheet

Experiment-7 (CF to Perspiration)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Original After

Multi-fiber strip


1. Give rating of Color Staining on Different Fibers

Fiber

Rating

2. Change of Color:

3. Sample Size:

4. pH of the solution:

5. Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of each

step (use separate sheet)

Sample

Sample

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LAB # 8

COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER

1: PURPOSE AND SCOPE: 1.1: This test method is designed to measure the resistance to water of

dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile yarns and fabric of all kind. 1.2: Distilled water or deionizer water is used in this test method because

natural (tap) water is variable in composition.

2: APPARTUS AND MATERIAL: 2.1: Perspiration tester.

2.2: Plates, Glass or Plastic. 2.3: Drying oven. 2.4: Multi fiber. 2.5: Wringer. 2.6: AATCC gray scale for color change. 2.7: AATCC gray scale for staining. 2.8: Specimen to be tested.

2.9: Freshly boiled distilled water or deionized water from an ion-exchange devise.

3: PROCEDURE:

3.1: Take specimen to be tested and cut it onto 2.25 x 2.25 inches (5.7 x 5.7 cm).

3.2: Stapled the Multi fiber with specimen and weight. 3.3: Immerse the test specimen in the test solution at room temperature

with occasional agitation approximately 15 minutes. 3.4: Remove the test specimen from the test solution and only pass

between squeeze rolls (wringer) to remove excess liquor. 3.5: Wet specimen weight should be equal to more than three time its

dry weight. 3.6: Place the test specimen between glass or plastic plates. 3.7: Insert in the specimen unit of the perspiration tester. 3.8: Put the 8 LB (3.6 kg) on the perspiration tester. 3.9: Heat the loaded specimen unit in an oven at 38 + 1 °C (100 + 2 F) for 18 hrs. 3.10: Remove specimen from unit and complete drying by hanging air at

room temperature.

4: EVALUTION: 4.1: After hanging drying process evaluate the staining on Multi fiber with

AATCC gray scale for staining. 4.2: Evaluate the color change with AATCC gray scale for color change.

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Worksheet

Experiment-8 (CF to Water)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Original After

Multi-fiber strip


1 Give rating of Color Staining on Different Fibers

Fiber

Rating

2 Change of Color:

3 Sample Size:

4 pH of the water:

5 Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of each

step (use separate sheet)

Sample

Sample

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LAB # 9

COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER: SEA 1: PURPOSE AND SCOPE:

1.1: This test method is design to measure the resistance to seawater of dyed, pigment or otherwise colored textile yarns and fabrics of all kind.

1.2: Artificial seawater is used in this test because natural seawater is variable in composition and often difficult to obtain.

2: APPARATUS AND MATERIALS: 2.1: Perspiration tester.

2.2: Plates: glass or plastic. 2.3: Drying oven. 2.4: Multi fiber. 2.5: AATCC gray scale for color change 2.6: AATCC gray scale for staining. 2.7: Specimen to be tested. 2.8: Wringer. 2.9: Chemicals. 2.10: Distilled water. 3: REST SOLUTION (Artificial sea water)

3.1: Per liter. Sodium chloride (NaCl) , tech. 30 g. Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) , anhyd. 5 g. 3.2: Distilled water to make 1000 ml solution. 3.3: Shake these chemicals in distilled water with a glass rod. 4: PROCEDURE:

4.1: Take specimen to be tested and cut it into 2.25x2.25 inches (5.7x5.7 cm)

4.2: Staple the multi fiber with specimen and weigh. 4.3: Immerse the test specimen in the solution at room temperature with

occasional agitation approximately 15 minutes. 4.4: Remove the test specimen from the test solution and only pass

between squeeze rolls (wringer) to remove excess liquor. 4.5: Wet specimen weight should be equal to more than three times its

dry weight. 4.6: Place the test specimen between glass or plastic plates. 4.7: insert in the specimen unit of the perspiration tester. 4.8: Put the 8 LB (3.6 kg) on the perspiration tester. 4.9: heat the loaded specimen unit in an oven at 38 + 1 °C (100 + 2 F)

for 18 hrs. 4.10: Remove specimen from unit and complete drying by hanging in air

at room temperature. 5: EVALUTION:

5.1: After hanging drying process evaluate the staining on multi fiber with AATCC gray scale for staining.

5.2: Evaluate the color change with AATCC gray scale for color change.

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Worksheet

Experiment-9 (CF to Sea Water)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

Original After

Multi-fiber strip


1 Give rating of Color Staining on Different Fibers

Fiber

Rating

2 Change of Color:

3 Sample Size:

4 pH of the Solution:

Summarize the whole experiment in your own words, emphasizing importance of each step (use separate sheet)

Sample

Sample

26

LAB # 10

FABRIC COUNT TEST 1: PURPOSE AND SCOPE:

To measure the fabric count. Fabric count which is expressed in umber of threads per length is used as an indicator of fabric quality in general. Generally, higher thread count results in stronger, more durable fabric with less possibility of yarn shifting.

2: PRINCIPLE:

The number of warp (ends) and filling (picks) for woven fabric or Wales and courses for knitted fabric per unit distance are determined by using suitable magnifying and counting devices.

3: REFERENCE: 3.1 ASTM D 3775-03 Standard test method for fabric count of woven

fabric. 3.2 ASTM D 3887-96 standard specification for Tolerances for Knitted

Fabrics. 4: APPARATUS:

4.1 Pick glass 4.2 Counting device 5: PROCEDURE:

5.1 Take at least 3 specimens greater than 5x5 cm (2x2 in) from each garment from different places.

5.2 Condition the specimens for minimum of 2 hours at 21˚c + 1(70 F + 2) temperature.

5.3 The yarn counting should be done in the middle and not at the edge of the specimen.

5.4 Place the pick glass on the specimen resting on a flat surface. Look through the pick glass to determine whether the counting can be done more easily on the face or on the back. Count on either face or back, whichever is easier.

5.5 Line up the left edge of the opening in the base of the pick glass with the first yarn to be counted.

5.6 Use pick needle to point to the yarns as they are counted from one edge to the opposite edge of the base of the pick glass.

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Worksheet

Experiment-10 (Fabric Count)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………


1. Report the average number of warp and filling per cm or per inch


Sample 2

Sample 1

Sample 3

Warp = Weft =

Warp = Weft =

Warp = Weft =

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LAB # 11

SHRINKAGE TEST

Purpose

The purpose of this operating procedure is to ensure that the dimensional stability test of the fabric is performed in standardized manner as per documented operating procedure.

Responsibility

1. Assistant Manager QAD is responsible to overall manage the physical testing in the Quality Assurance Department.

2. Lab In-charge is responsible to monitor the physical testing in the Quality Assurance Department.

3. Lab Assistant is responsible to perform the physical testing in the Quality Assurance Department.

Sample preparation

Before doing any of the physical testing, Lab Assistant conditions each specimen for at least 4 hours in an atmosphere of “21+ 10C(70+20F) and 65+2% RH” by laying each test specimen on a screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning rack.

1: Width:

Finished width is checked with the help of measuring tapes. Lab Assistant checks the width from two or three places and then take their average. This average value indicates the finished width of the fabric.

1. Dimensional stability (length wise and width wis e shrinkage). A. Sample preparation:

1. Lab Assistant marks test specimen with three pairs of benchmarks (35 cm each) parallel to the width as well as to the length of the fabric.

2. The marks are in the form of square, so these are marked as “ABCD” 3. Measure and record the distance between each pair of benchmarks. This is the original

measurement or measurement “X”. B. Washing:

1. Lab Assistant places the specimens in the wash wheel with sufficient ballast or other fabrics similar to test specimens to make appropriate weight.

2. Add 66+1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent/ ECE Reference Detergent (as per buyer’s recommendations).

3. Lab Assistant starts the wash wheel and notes the time. 4. Immediately he adds water at 41+30C(105+50F) to the wash wheel to a certain level. 5. Washing test is performed as per “Washing tests for Dimensional Stability

(F/STD/QAD/4.10/1)”.

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C. Drying:

Lab Assistant adopts one of the following procedures for drying, as per buyer’s requirement.

1. Tumble Dry:

• Lab Assistant allows washing to proceed automatically through the final spin cycle. • He removes the test specimens immediately after the final spin cycle, separates

tangled pieces, and taking care to minimize distortion. • Lab Assistant places the washed load (test specimens and ballast) in the tumble dryer

and set the temperature control to generate the correct exhaust temperature. • He operates the dryer until the total load is dry. • Lab Assistant then removes the load immediately after the machine stops.

2. Line Dry:


tangled pieces, and taking care to minimize distortion. • Lab Assistant hangs each specimen by two corners, with the fabric length in the

vertical direction, on the rope. • He then allows the test specimens to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.

3. Screen Dry:


tangled pieces, and taking care to minimize distortion. • Lab Assistant spreads each specimen on a horizontal screen or perforated surface

removing wrinkles but not distorting or stretching it. • He then allows the test specimens to dry in still air at room temperature.

4. Drip Dry :

• Lab Assistant removes the specimens from the washer just before the water begins to drain for the final rinse cycle (he removes specimens soaking wet).

• He hangs each dripping wet specimen by two corners, with the fabric length in the vertical direction, on the rope.

• He then allows the test specimens to dry in still air at room temperature. 5. Flat Bed Press Dry:


tangled pieces, and taking care to minimize distortion. • Lab Assistant presses dry on the flatbed press according to the following cycle:

30

a) Five seconds steam with head up. b) Five seconds dry hot press with head down, 148+30C (298+50F) of steam pressure at the press. c) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head down. d) Five seconds vacuum, steam off, head up.

D. Conditioning:

• After the completed washing and drying interval, Lab Assistant pre-condition and condition specimens for at least four hours by laying each specimen separately on the screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning rack in an atmosphere of “21+ 10C(70+20F) and 65+2% RH”.

E. Measurement:

• After conditioning, Lab Assistant lays each test specimen without tension on a smooth, horizontal surface.

• He measures and records the distance between each pair of benchmarks to the nearest millimeter, 0.1in. Or smaller increment.

• This is called measurement ‘Y’. F. Calculations:

• Lab Assistant calculates the dimensional change for each specimen to the nearest 0.1% using following equation:

% Dimensionnel Change = (Y-X) x 100 X

Where: X = The average of three or four original measurements for the length wise or width wise

direction in the specimen. Y= The average of three or four measurements after cycle completed for the length wise or width

wise direction in the specimen. G. Results:

• A final measurement smaller than the original measurement results in the negative dimensional change which is “SHRINKAGE”.

• A final measurement larger than the original measurement results in the positive dimensional change which is “GROWTH or NEGATIVE SHRINKAGE”.

31

Worksheet

Experiment-11 (SHRINKAGE TEST)

Group#:…………………………

Names: 1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. …… …………………………………….

…………………………………….

…………………………………….

………………………………………



Sample

% Dimensionnel Change

32

LAB # 12

FABRIC SQUARE WEIGHT CHECK TEST 1: PURPOSE:

This test method purpose is to find the fabric weight from a sample of cloth. 2: APPARATUS:

2.1 Sample cutter (area 10.0 cm squared)

2.2 Cutting board

2.3 Scales

3: PROCEDURE: 3.1 Lay fabric flat on bench in tubular from, with the cutting board under it.

3.2 Cut 5 samples across the width of the sample.

3.3 Weight the sample on the scales

3.4 Multiply weight by 10 to express as grams per square meter.

3.5 Check weight against fabric pass/fail parameters.

33

Worksheet

Experiment-12 (Fabric Square weight check)


1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………



Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 2

Sample 3

Sample 5

Weight = Weight = Weight =

Weight = Weight =

34

LAB # 13

TRIM STRETCH AND RECOVERY OF TRIM

A: TRIM STRETCH

1: APPRATUS:

1.1 Black template (9cm x 7.7 cm) 1.2 Frymer extensiometer. 1.3 3.0 kg weight 2: PROCEDURE:

2.1 Place black template onto trim sample and draw round it then cut along the lines you have drawn.

2.2 Clamp trim onto extensiometer. 2.3 Unwind handle until it can go no further. 2.4 Take the reading from the left side of the scale and record it. 2.5 Anything over 100% is considered a pass. Anything less than 100% considered fail.

B: RECOVERY OF TRIM

1: APPRATUS:

1.1 Black template (9cm x 7.7 cm) 1.2 Frymer extensiometer. 1.3 3.0 kg weight 1.4 Marker pen 2: PROCEDURE:

2.1 Test as in section 12.1 but draw lines at either end of the trim sample when it has been clamped to the extensiometer.

2.2 Remove sample after stretching, leave lying on a flat surface for 60 seconds.

2.3 Measure the distance between the two lines. 2.4 use the following formula to calculate recovery % recovery = (relaxed length – original length) x 100 Original length

2.5 This result is not used to pass or fail a batch but should be recorded it.

35

Worksheet

Experiment-13 (Stretch and Recovery of Trim)


1. ....……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………



Stretch of Trim

Reading:

Recovery of Trim

Reading:

36

LAB # 14

FIBERS IDENTIFICATION TESTING

1: PURPOSE:

To identify textile fibers in an unknown piece of fabric 2: APPRATUS:

Tweezers, source of flame (candle, Bunsen burner, lamp) 3: Theory:

The burning test places fibers into one of four categories, cellulosic, protein, thermoplastic or mineral. Although the accompanying table describes the burning characteristics of individual fibers, the burning test alone is not sufficient to identify precisely a specific fiber. It will classify a fiber as cellulosic but will not distinguish clearly between cotton and viscose. It should be noted that flame retardant modifications of some fibers cotton, rayon, acetate and modacrylic for example are available. Burning is retarded; odour on burning and ash may be changed. Colored fibers, especially those colored by pigments will retain color in the residue.

4: PROCEDURE:

4.1. Cut off a small sample of fabric around 1 square inch. 4.2. Hold the piece of fabric in a pair of tweezers 4.3. Move the tweezers towards a small flame 4.4. Observe the way the fibers behave as they approach the flame, because some

shrink away, soften or curl 4.5. Observe the burning behavior in the flame like if it burn quickly slowly) 4.6. Observe the odour of burning 4.7. Observe the persistence of burning after the sample is withdrawn from the flame.

37

Worksheet

Experiment-14 (FIBERS IDENTIFICATION TESTING) Group#:…………………………

Names:

1. ...……………………………. ……... 2. ……………………………………….

3. ……………………………………….

4. ………………………………………

5. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. ……

……………………………………. ……………………………………. ……………………………………. ………………………………………

FIBER Performance at flame Odor Residue Solubility

Approach to flame

In the flame

Withdrawn from flame

1

2

3

4

5


1. Sample size

2. burning behavior of your sample


38

Handout:Handout:Handout:Handout:

A- BURNING BEHAVIOR:

FIBER Performance at flame Odor Residue

Approach to flame

In the flame

Withdrawn from flame

SILK Shrinks away

Burns slowly

Self extinguishing

Burning hair

Brittle, swollen, black ash

WOOL Shrinks away

Burns slowly

Self extinguishing

Burning hair

Brittle, swollen, black ash

COTTON No

effect Burns readily

Continues to burn

Burning paper

Gray skeletal ash

NYLON Shrinks away

Burns slowly and melts

Often self extinguishing

Celery Sometimes perceptible

Hard light colored bead

ACRYLIC Shrinks away

Burns slowly and melts

Continues to burn

and melt Acrid

Brittle black bead

POLYPROPYLENE (OLEFIN)

Shrinks quickly

Burns and melts

Burns and melt

Not defined

Hard, round bead, maybe light brown

39

B- SOLUBILITY OF FIBERS

Acetone 100% Hydrochloric

acid 20% Sulfuric

acid 60% Sulfuric acid

70%

Chlorine bleach

5%

Formic acid 90%

ACETATE Soluble Insoluble Soluble Soluble Insoluble Soluble

ACRYLIC Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

depending on type

Insoluble Insoluble

COTTON Insoluble Insoluble Slightly soluble

Soluble Insoluble Insoluble

HAIR Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Soluble Insoluble

HEMP Insoluble Insoluble Slightly soluble


LINEN Insoluble Insoluble Slightly soluble


MODARYLIC Soluble or Insoluble

depending on type Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

NYLON Insoluble Soluble Soluble Soluble Insoluble Soluble

OLEFIN Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

POLYESTER Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble

RAMIE Insoluble Insoluble Slightly soluble


RAYON Insoluble Insoluble Soluble Soluble Insoluble Insoluble

SILK Insoluble Partially Soluble Soluble Soluble Soluble Partially soluble

Wool Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble Soluble Insoluble

ADDITIONAL SOLUBILITIES

• Polypropylene (olefin) soluble in m-xylene and cyclohexanone. • Acrylic soluble in dimethyl formamide. • Polyester soluble in m-cresol. • Nylon 6 is soluble in dimethyl formamide and nylon 66 is not.

40

C- PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF FIBERS

Natural Fibers Density

g/cc Melting Point

Degree C (Degree F)

CELLULOSE 1.51 None

SILK 1.32-1.34 None

WOOL & OTHER HAIR 1.15-1.30 None

Man-Made Fibers

ACETATE, secondary 1.32 260 (500)

ACETATE, tri. 1.30 288 (550.4)

ACRYLIC 1.12-1.19 None

MODACRYLIC 1.30 or 1.36 188(370.4 not sharp) or 120(248)

NYLON 6 1.12-1.15 213-225(415.4-437)

NYLON 66 1.12-1.15 256-265(492.8-509)

POLYESTER 1.38 or 1.23 250-260(482-500) or 282(539.6 )

POLYPROPYLENE 0.90-0.92 170(338)

RAYON 1.51 None

41

LAB # 15

SPIRALITY (BODY TWIST) OF KNITTED GARMENTS 1: PURPOSE:

The purpose of this test is to evaluate the degree of spirality (body twist) of garment mad from knitted fabrics both before and after home laundering.

2: PROCEDURE:

2.1 A garment is measured for spirality, washed, dried, ironed (if applicable) and measured again for spirality.

2.2 Lay the garment flat on a smooth surface with side seam underarm (point A on sketch) exactly at side seam fold, making sure the garment is an a fully relaxed condition from this point down to bottom edge of garment.

2.3 Measure the displacement of the side seam from the relaxed side fold at the bottom edge of the garment in cm (distance BC on sketch). In the case of a garment with well at bottom, the points B and C will be taken at 1 cm above welt.

2.4 measure the length in cm of the side seam (distance AB on sketch). 2.5 The garment is then subjected to 1 home laundering cycle according to the care

instructions and ironed, if appropriate. 3: CALCULATION: To calculate spirality: BC x 100% AB DETERMINED:

a) For unwashed garment using measurements taken on unwashed garment and b) For washed garment using measurement taken on garment after laundering

A = point where underarm and side seam join

B = point where side seam converges with bottom edge(or 1 cm above welt)

C = point where side seam fold converges with bottom edge(or 1 cm above welt)

42

Worksheet

Experiment-15 (SPIRALITY TEST)

Group#:…………………………

ames: 6. ...……………………………. ……... 7. ……………………………………….

8. ……………………………………….

9. ………………………………………

10. …………………………………….

IDs: ...……………………………. …… …………………………………….

…………………………………….

…………………………………….

………………………………………



Sample

% Reading:

tx 374

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