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luxury briefing

EXCLUSIVE

INTERVIEW WITH

SEBASTIEN BESSON

•VERSACE

NAMES NEW CEO

•SOPHIA WEBSTER OPENS FIRST STORE

•KATA ROCKS HOTEL

OPENS

•JAEGER-LECOULTRE COLLABORATES WITH

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

•JOHN HARDY NAMES NEW

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

•WALLPAPER*

BAR + KITCHEN LAUNCHES

•CATHAY PACIFIC A350

ARRIVES IN

HONG KONG

•PLUS: Q&A

WITH JEREMY ROBSON

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Industry reports

10 Fashion & Accessories

12 Beauty & Wellness

14 Hospitality

16 Luxury Services

18 Jewellery & Watches

20 Food & Drink

22 Travel & Aviation

Regulars1 Contents

2 Events Calendar

24 Luxury retail property news

London, Europe & New York

33 Wealth Report

AAG

34 Brand Matter

Georgia Fendley

35 Q&A

Jeremy Robson

Features

4 Luxury Briefing Insight Feature

SIR ERIC PEACOCK meets Sebastien Besson of Armand de Brignac

to discuss the meteoric rise of the champagne brand

23 Luxury Futures

Over a six-part series RUTH MARSHALL-JOHNSON and SHIFRA COOK

delve into how some of the smartest thinkers and inventors are

shaking up different elements of our lives with new tech and digital

innovations

26 Digital Thinker

Traackr’s Vice President EMEA, NICOLAS CHABOT, looks at influencer

marketing in the luxury sector

28 Limited Editions

THERESA HAROLD explores the storied history of the world’s oldest

jewellery house: Garrard

C O N T E N T S

THE SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOWThe largest recreational marine event in the southern hemisphere – 28 July – 1 August 2016

Sydney Exhibition Centre at Glebe Island and Cockle Bay Marina in Darling Harbour

THE LAND ROVER BURGHLEY HORSE TRIALSPrestigious equestrian event with a shopping village of more than 600 exhibitors – 1-4 September 2016

Burghley Park, Lincolnshire

CITI WORLD LUXURY EXPO, SEOULLeading brands exhibit to invitation-only HNWI audience – 2-4 September 2016

Grand Hyatt, Seoul

HONG KONG WATCH AND CLOCK FAIRThe 35th edition of the annual timepiece trade show – 6-10 September 2016

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

LUXURY HOSPITALITY CONFERENCE & EXPOPremier event for the luxury, hospitality and wellness travel communities – 25-27 September 2016

Washington D.C., Gaylord National Resort & Convention Center

GLOBAL WELLNESS SUMMITInternational gathering of global wellness industry leaders – 17-19 October 2016

KitzKongress, Kitzbühel, Tyrol

THE LUXURY TRAVEL FAIRCondé Nast Traveller presents a collection of the finest and most unique holidays – 3-6 November 2016

Olympia, London

VOICESBusiness of Fashion’s annual summit for fashion insiders – 1-3 December 2016

Soho Farmhouse, Oxfordshire

ART BASELContemporary art show connecting galleries, patrons, and the international art world – 1-4 December 2016

Miami Beach Convention Centre

E V E N T S C A L E N D A R

Luxury Briefing

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luxury briefing

C O N T R I B U T O R S

FMS Global Media | Editorial: Harriet Linder, Sophie Walker, Theresa Harold Subscription Manager: information@luxury-briefing.com

Keith Wilson

Keith is one of the founding directors of Wilson Mchardy, a boutique agency providing investment, development and leasing advice to key clients in the luxury market. Responsible for many headline projects in London, Keith has provided strategic advice for Grosvenor Estates, Dunhill, Chanel, Richemont and Groupe Arnault among others.

Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook

Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook are co-founders of COIN Research, an independent consultancy that helps organisations anticipate tomorrow’s consumer and match the product, brand and marketing to their needs. Shifra develops unique proprietary research tools to better profile and understand luxury consumers and Ruth identifies the relationship between cultural development and consumer behaviours.

Nicolas Chabot

Nicolas Chabot is Vice President EMEA at Traackr, the leading global influencer marketing platform. His expertise includes strategic leadership, operations and commercial management, multichannel and digital media, retail and consumer brands.

Theresa Harold

Born in Hong Kong, luxury lifestyle journalist Theresa Harold has worked for numerous print and online publications in Asia and Europe. During the course of her career, she has interviewed celebrities, designers, CEOs — and memorably, a prince.

Faith Hope Consolo

Revered worldwide as the ‘Queen of Retail,’ Faith Hope Consolo’s prognostications on shopping and consumption are heeded by world-class designers, mass retailers, start-up boutiques, property owners and municipalities around the world. She has her pulse on the retail scene in New York City, and the world’s great shopping centres and high streets.

Georgia Fendley

Georgia has spent a career immersed in luxury brands – as designer, art director, brand strategist, branding agency owner, industry mentor and, of course, savvy consumer. As Brand Director of Mulberry (2008–2012), she helped to steer the company through its greatest period of financial and geographical growth and her perspective on the industry, from inside and out, is therefore acutely perceptive.

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Luxury Briefing Issue 188

I N S I G H T F E AT U R E

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Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

Instantly recognised by its

opaque metallic bottles and

distinctive Ace of Spades logo,

Armand de Brignac is the

champagne of choice for a

discerning clientele – not the

least of whom include a certain

Shawn ‘Jay Z’ Carter, who bought

the brand outright in 2014. Part

of the storied Cattier champagne

house, the Armand de Brignac

brand had lain dormant since the

1950s before a renaissance at the

start of the millennium. Since

then, the label has garnered

many accolades and to this day

holds the record for the most

expensive bottle of champagne

ever sold (the £120,000 Armand

De Brignac Midas).

Here, Sir Eric Peacock shares a

drink with Sebastien Besson on

his recent visit to London, to find

out what’s been happening since

Besson joined the company in

October 2014.

Tell me Sebastien, what’s the

history of the brand?

We always introduce our brand

for what it is, which is 250 years

of history. The Cattier family

started cultivating vineyards

back in 1763; today they are

11th generation growers. They

have been producing champagne

under their own name for just

less than 100 years now.

What is the range of product

within the brand now?

We have five different cuvées:

Traditional Brut, which is our

gold bottle; Traditional Rosé,

which is the pink bottle; very

high-end Blanc de Blancs which

is 100% Chardonnay; and Blanc

de Noirs, which is 100% Pinot

Noir. Unusually for a prestigious

maison, we also have a Demi Sec,

which is extremely highly rated.

What is the extent of your

business today, in terms of its

geographic footprint?

Our biggest market is the US,

but it is less than 40% today.

The market in France last year

doubled in size. We are all over

Europe, almost all over Asia.

We go to South America and

all of North America. Very

broad distribution.

What we know of our core

consumer is that citizenship

or nationalities are not what

matters to those people.

It’s more the lifestyle, and an

interest in the best things in life.

He could be a Malaysian living

in Los Angeles, or he could be a

German living in Paris. That’s a

very international consumer.

So we generally try to catch them

wherever they are in the world.

ACE OF SPADESSIR ERIC PEACOCK MEETS SEBASTIEN BESSON, CEO OF ARMAND DE BRIGNAC CHAMPAGNE,

TO GET A TASTE OF WHAT’S COMING UP FOR THE BRAND

Sir Eric Peacock speaks with: SEBASTIEN BESSON

6

In terms of the main

positioning of the brand,

share with us some ideas of

what you’ve been trying to do.

For example, as we expand into

high-end restaurants or hotels,

we are trying to just keep our

core message of quality. So our

message is the same, but you

don’t need to express it the

same way in a Michelin-starred

restaurant as when you do it in a

nightlife atmosphere.

What we know is that our

consumer might be the same

person who is partying in San

Tropez, and then celebrating

his wedding anniversary with

his wife in a Michelin-starred

restaurant in Paris. So, that same

consumer has different needs

and expenses, both during the

day and during the night. We

are just trying to make sure that

we are able to express how we fit

into those different situations.

How do you try to differentiate

yourself from other

champagne brands?

We are a very small house. We

are very limited in production.

So everything we do is very

finely tuned to the needs of

our customers. We try to make

sure that we offer an extremely

pleasing experience. Armand

de Brignac is all about the

enjoyment of the drinking

experience. We are about the

feeling of highly sophisticated

winemaking, which should

deliver a lot of pleasure.

Can you share with us a bit

more about the characteristics

of these consumers?

There is no doubt that they are

very premium consumers. What

we have discovered is that even in

a nightlife environment, where

it may sound like it’s more for

partying, people are very highly

educated and they have access to

information.

Everybody has a smartphone,

everybody can check the ratings,

can check all sorts of information

about everything. So something

they all have in common is they

are looking for the best. Most

consumers, especially on the

high-end, are looking for new

things. There is obviously a need

for image, there’s a need for

pleasure, and there is a need for

getting the best because they are

the best.

As those consumers are very

often the best in their own field,

you have to bring something that

fits who they are. And I think

that’s really the key to everything

we do.

Are you seeing any changes

in that consumer’s desire or

requirement?

In the industry today, a lot of

brands are very challenged

because they need to be very

authentic in everything they do.

There is a core principle of ‘no

compromise’ when it comes to

the final product you deliver.

Recently, we changed the

thickness of the cardboard that

carries our bottles. Consumers

never see the cardboard, but

I actually believed it was

important because the person

that carries that case, if the case

looks better than the cases of the

competitors, then that person

will carry it more carefully. And

that will make a difference along

the chain, which will reach the

consumer in the end.

How are you communicating

with your customers today?

Look, if we are doing it well, most

people should not hear about

it. We are the opposite of what

others do. We are very small so

we do not have the budget that

all the big guys have. But even

more importantly, what matters

to us is to be very organic and to

be very close to our customers.

So, as much as possible, most

of our events are private. We

don’t publicise them, however

fancy the crowd might have been.

Whether top models or actresses

might have been there, no

pictures are coming out.

Our very VIP customer is not

someone who needs to be in the

public eye. So everything we do

is very personalised, very tailor-

made. It takes more effort, but if

we have the right people working

with us, and the right partners, it

can reach those people in a very

natural way. I think it is more

appropriate for a brand like ours.

How do you remain

inspired creatively?

One of the challenges that I

have is that our customers are

everywhere, so I spend a lot

of time on the road. But all

that travel takes me to the best

hotels, the best restaurants,

and constantly as I travel the

world, you can see what others

experience and appreciate in life.

Recently, I was in Hong

Kong and we noticed a box in

a jewellery store. The box was

fascinating for its finishes, so we

bought the box. And the point

of it is that we are going to be

inspired by that box, because a

box is very important for us to

improve the ways we do our own

packaging.

[On another occasion], we

did an event with a jeweler and

the decoration on the tables was

not flower arrangements. It was

jewel arrangements. That’s the

inspiration you get for how you

can be creative.

When you’re travelling, are

you thinking about the

markets or the ultimate

consumers?

No, I’m really thinking about the

consumer. For us it’s always the

consumer. An example: recently,

we were organising the shipment

for an empty bottle. You might

think, ‘why are we shipping

empty bottles?’ The reason is it

was for a couple from Taiwan,

who live in Hong Kong and got

married in the south of France.

They wanted a 15 litre rosé from

Armand de Brignac, and as a

souvenir from their wedding

they wanted the bottle back in

Hong Kong. So we organised the

Previous page: Armand de Brignac champagne

Opposite: Cattier family cellars

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

I N S I G H T F E AT U R E

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We are a very small house. We are very limited

in production

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

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shipment of that empty bottle in

a fresh new box to take it back to

their apartment in Hong Kong.

Are there any external

forces in the markets you’re

dealing with which are

affecting your brand?

Again, I think it goes back to

the small size of our business.

We are so nimble and quick at

adapting that today there is

actually very little influence

from what’s happening outside

of our business. I would not say

that we are immune to changes

around us, but the reality is

that the adaptability of that

core consumer, his ability to

move around the world, away

from problems and going to the

best places means that we are

pretty much following them and

growing with them.

Could you take us through

the process from ground

and growing the vine, to the

experience I have as I sip the

product?

I guess it goes back to what I

was saying earlier about ‘no

compromise’. We know that

in the end it’s all about the

winemaking. The winemaking

starts in the dirt, that noble dirt

in the Champagne region where

you have that harsh climate

and soil that creates those very

special vines and grapes. Taking

care of this, by hand, from the

beginning, all the way to the

pressing, and doing everything

in a way that is done better than

others are doing it.

It is never done in a gimmicky

way, but done because our

winemakers and growers believe

they can make it better.

When we press the grapes,

for example, a normal maison

will press its grapes until there’s

no more juice. At Armand de

Brignac, we only take the very

first juice. It’s not like we are

trying to waste the grapes,

because they are very special

grapes and it takes so much care

to grow them, but it’s because

that’s the very best juice. Even if

you are going to waste two-thirds

or three-quarters of the juice,

that’s what makes the difference.

You suddenly have a juice that is

so much more special, that is the

right acidity, the right everything

for the winemaker.

When you drink a glass of

Armand de Brignac, the fruit is

there, you can feel the fruit.

You can be brought into a nice

spring day in the Champagne

region and you can feel how fresh

the fruit is.

That brings me to my next

question, which is what do you

want me to feel when I drink

Armand de Brignac?

It’s interesting because

champagne, and the experience

of popping the bottle, is always

a celebration. So we know that

we are bringing to the customer

something that is celebratory.

What is important for us is to

make sure that the customer feels

that it’s not just him celebrating,

but we are celebrating with him.

We want him to feel like we

wanted to be there with him, and

that we are bringing something

very, very special.

It’s important because it is

not an industrial product they

are getting. It is a product in

which only 14 human beings

are involved. We really are a

tiny operation.

Speaking about your artisans

and workforce, and the pride

they take in the company: How

do you create that culture?

It’s something I would say the

French have been really good at

doing, which is preserving those

regions in France. Our teams are

all born into it. It’s fascinating

because just like the Cattiers

are 11th generation champagne

people, I’ve discovered that

absolutely everybody who works

there was born there.

It is rare to have innovation

in the champagne business, but

this brand took the risk, was

different from the others, and

the results are there to make

them very proud. So all of those

people have the champagne DNA

from having been born there, but

they also have immense pride for

this amazing brand.

How would you describe your

own leadership style?

I’m pretty much all about the

team. I have a very strong belief

in talent, so generally the

human resource that you bring

around a business or brand, is

what really makes it strong and

better for the future.

It’s interesting because champagne, and the experience of popping the bottle, is always a celebration

This page, opposite page: Arnand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs ; Cattier family vineyards

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

I N S I G H T F E AT U R E

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Finally, let’s say we are

popping a bottle of

champagne five years from

now. What would you be

telling me about the journey

that you’ve been on since we

last spoke?

As I was saying before, innovation

is a core element of luxury in

general. You have to remain

modern and relevant.

We always look at winemaking

and what we can do with our

teams to eventually bring

something new to the consumer.

SIR ERIC PEACOCKis the Chairman of the luxury

furniture brand Timothy Oulton

and the parent company Halo

International. He is also Chairman

of Buckley Ltd., the holding company

for Boutin and Buckley brands.

He was formerly the Founder,

Chairman and Chief Executive of

Babygro. Now, he is also a Non-

Executive at United Kingdom Export

Finance (UKEF), which supports

UK export-focused businesses. In

addition, he has also previously

been a Non-Executive at the Foreign

and Commonwealth Office (FCO),

Business Innovation and Skills

(BSI) and United Kingdom Trade

& Industry (UKTI) government

departments and agencies.

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

One core aspect of champagne is

that the more time we give to our

wines, the better they get. So in

five years from now, I can tell you

that if we didn’t open that bottle,

and if we waited patiently it will

be even better than it was today.

But we still have to satisfy our

needs, so we are drinking many

of them!

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FASHION + ACCESSORIES

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

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GANDHUM LONDON ANNOUNCES NEW STOCKISTLuxury menswear brand Gandhum is now available exclusively at Wolf & Badger, London. Founded in 2014 by Jas Gandhum, the company’s first collection, entitled ‘Indian Summer’ is a selection of suiting and linen shirts. For his debut, Gandhum takes a journey from his ancestral roots in Punjab, India. He uses traditional

bespoke Buta motif designs across clothes and accessories in a combination of traditional Indian fabrics. In keeping with its founder’s love of London, all suiting production remains in the capital. What’s more, an exclusive made-to-measure service is also available.

5

ORLEBAR BROWN UNVEILS #SNAPSHORTSFrom the brand that first championed the use of photographic prints on swim shorts, comes a unique personalisation concept. The Orlebar Brown design-your-own service allows users to upload images to the dedicated app, adjust as needed, edit, and then purchase the one-of-a-kind trunks. Alternatively,

clients can browse from the curated range of Orlebar Brown’s favourite images instead. The new version of the Orlebar Brown #SnapShorts app is available to download from the App Store and Google Play, in-store, or on orlebar.co/snapshorts. Delivery of the custom shorts will be made within three weeks.

3

FURLA CEO RESIGNSItalian fashion house Furla has confirmed the resignation of Eraldo Poletto as Group CEO. Citing the pursuit of new professional interests, Poletto will nonetheless maintain his role in the company until the end of June 2016. In a statement, Furla thanked Poletto “for the important contribution he has made to the company and wishes him all the best for his personal

and professional future endeavours.” Poletto joined Furla in June 2010, and helped grow the company around the world, further developing its retail network, which in 2015 amounted a total of 415 stores.

1

RAF SIMONS SHOWED AT PITTI UOMO On the occasion of Pitti Immagine Uomo 90, the renowned menswear exhibition presented ‘Florence Calling: Raf Simons’, an event celebrating one of the most innovative minds in contemporary fashion and his return to Florence. “Florence holds a special place in my heart, as, over the years, I have regularly

come back to show my work or to collaborate on ventures that closely mirrored my thoughts about it. I am thrilled to be here again this season to present my S/S collection as well as a special project we are developing especially for Pitti,” said Simons. “We are both happy and proud that Raf Simons [came] back to Florence,” says Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine Director of Communications and Events.

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JONATHAN SAUNDERS JOINS DIANE VON FURSTENBURGDiane von Furstenberg has announced the appointment of British designer Jonathan Saunders as Chief Creative Officer. “Jonathan’s extraordinary passion for colors and prints, his effortless designs, and his desire to make women feel beautiful make him the perfect creative force

to lead DVF into the future,” said Diane von Furstenberg, Founder and Chairwoman of Diane von Furstenberg Studio, LLC. “I could not have found a cooler, more intelligent designer and I cannot wait to watch him shine as our chief creative officer.” Having launched his eponymous womenswear label in 2003, Saunders has made a name for himself as one of London’s leading design talents. “The spirit with which this brand was founded is incredibly relevant today. I am thrilled to be part of its next chapter,” said Saunders.

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

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I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

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OLIVIER ROUSTEING JOINS FORCES WITH NIKELABFrench fashion designer Olivier Rousteing has partnered with sportswear giant Nike to create a NikeLab x Olivier Rousteing: Football Nouveau collection. “Fashion is usually about the catwalk and the glamour, but with Nike it was about performance and the athletes,” reveals Rousteing. “What I love

about this collection is that we are integrating the iconic style of football into sport style.” Bringing his formidable tailoring skills – which have made him such a success at Balmain – to Nike, Rousteing kept his luxurious aesthetic relevant to the football field. “Olivier was obsessed with the complete look,” explains Jarrett Reynolds, NikeLab Senior Apparel Design Director. “At every design review, he’d ask, ‘Would a football player really wear that?’ That question helped keep the collection rooted in sport.”

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SOPHIA WEBSTER OPENS FIRST STANDALONE STOREBritish footwear maven Sophie Webster has inaugurated her first monobrand store. The new flagship, which is located on London’s Mount Street, will offer the latest shoe and handbag collections, in-store exclusives as well as the brand’s full evening, bridal and mini

collections. Designed in collaboration with Studio XAG’s Xavier Sheriff and Gemma Ruse, as well as Simone Suss from Studio Suss, the fun and whimsical space reflects Webster’s signature style. “I have long dreamt of a physical destination for those who already follow and support my brand online and through social media so they can truly step into my world,” Webster explains. “[…] It is the start of a very exciting new chapter.”

7

CHRISTOPHER KANE DEBUTS SNEAKER COLLECTIONBritish fashion and accessories brand Christopher Kane has launched a sneaker line, hot on the heels of the recently launched eyewear range. Available on luxury e-commerce sites such as Net-A-Porter, and at its flagship store on Mount Street, London, the new range comprises three shoe

models in various colours including black, grey, navy and neon. Featuring a thick, flexible sole, the shoes incorporate many of the brand’s signature styles such as safety belt buckles and unusual print.

6

TOD’S CREATIVE DIRECTOR STEPS DOWN After three years at the helm of the company, Tod’s has announced that Alessandra Facchinetti has resigned as creative director of the brand’s womenswear department. Speaking about the move, Facchinetti stated: “I will now focus on other projects that I have put aside in order to be able to achieve Tod’s

strategies. It has been an honor to work with this extraordinary family company which puts quality, craftsmanship and excellence at the center of its business and I am grateful to Tod’s and especially to Diego and Andrea Della Valle, who have given me outstanding support and who will remain dear friends.” Facchinetti replaced Derek Lam when she joined the team. Her successor has yet to be named.

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.VERSACE NAMES NEW CEOVersace has announced the appointment of Jonathan Akeroyd as the new CEO. “Jonathan brings a proven track record in building global brands, steering growth and driving strategic development,” said Donatella Versace, Vice President and Artistic Director. “His industry expertise and vision will be key to advancing the next phase of Versace’s

development.” Having served as CEO of Alexander McQueen from 2004 until May 2016, Akeroyd oversaw one of the company’s most robust periods. He replaces Gian Giacomo Ferraris who joined Versace in 2009. “It is an honor to be joining such a dynamic and innovative organization. […] I look forward to implementing a long-term business strategy that supports the visionary and creative direction of Donatella Versace and her team,” said Akeroyd.

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

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5

ELEVATION HIRAFU COMMENCES SECOND DEVELOPMENT PHASEDesigned by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Elevation Hirafu is the only gated luxury community in Upper Hirafu located in the heart of Niseko. The 16,000-square metre estate has now entered its second phase of development, with the

first custom-designed house having broken ground in May. “You will see a transformation by this summer” says Jeanette Hall, Managing Partner of developer Zekkei Properties. “With the landscaping and entrance wall to be completed by July, Elevation’s completely luxurious environment, which is unique in the upper village, will become apparent.”

4

WESTFIELD LAUNCHES VIRTUAL STYLIST WITH SANDERSON HOTELWestfield London has partnered with Sanderson Hotel to trial a pioneering retail service. Through a mirror installed in Sanderson’s Loft Suite, guests can enjoy a virtual styling session with a Westfield stylist and shop the looks without leaving their room. The items

are then delivered within 90 minutes via Virgin Limo Bikes. Myf Ryan, Chief Marketing Officer, Westfield said: “Westfield knows that shoppers are looking to physical retailers to go beyond the transaction and provide richer consumer experiences that can’t be replicated online. The ‘Virtual Stylist’ delivers such an experience to the discerning customer who wants all the convenience of online shopping coupled with the personal service and human interactivity of a stylist selecting directly from the in-store range.”

3

STRATAJET RELEASES JET BOOKING PLATFORMStratajet is the world’s first real-time private jet booking platform that is set to revolutionise the private aviation sector. Using algorithms to calculate real-time prices, Stratajet is able to make the most of the fact that 40% of private jets currently fly with no passengers. “We are delighted to launch

Stratajet to the flying public,” said CEO and Founder, Jonny Nicol. “Fast forward to the day when most of the world’s jets are available through our platform and empty flights are a thing of the past. This is the Stratajet revolution – one aimed at lowering costs, improving jet operator profitability and bringing private flight to the mainstream traveller”.

1

Y.CO LAUNCHES ON-WATER BEAUTY RETREAT Showcasing a wide range of tailored treatments including onboard personal training, bespoke food programmes, massages, scrubs, and yoga sessions, ‘Pure’ is the first superyacht wellbeing retreat of its kind. Curated by Y.CO, the luxury boat sales and yacht charter company, ‘Pure’ has partnered with various prestigious

health specialists such as KX Gym, Yeotown Retreat, and Elixir Clinics. Celebrity facialist Anastasia Achilleos is also on-hand to use her unique technique beloved by A-listers. This exclusive retreat has been designed with a new breed of hedonist in mind – one who wants to leave their holiday feeling healthier than when they embarked.

2

IBIZA DELIVERS OFFERS WATER TAXI SERVICELeading villa and yacht provider, Ibiza Delivers, has launched Ibiza Delivers Offshore Service. Billed as the island’s first luxury water taxi service, the custom-made Hunton 1005 RIB boat features teak decking and light grey upholstery throughout. Guests will be greeted by the on-board crew and provided with a chilled face towel

and a bottle of VOSS water. There is also a bar, sponsored by English sparkling winemakers Nyetimber. Ibiza Delivers co-founder, David Max comments: “Two thirds of Superyachts visiting Ibiza moor offshore, so this service will really help them to operate the yacht more efficiently and better service the guests’ needs, as opposed to using their tenders to collect provisions from the marina or an island jetty.”

LUXURY SERVICES

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

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ALIVIA ARRIVES IN THE UKNew to the UK, Swiss-founded Health Management Service Alivia is set to revolutionise healthcare. Unlike private medical insurance, Alivia is not constrained by contracts or networks. This allows patients to approach their healthcare choices with the same due diligence that they would with other major life decisions. After all, the greatest wealth is health. Founded in Zurich

in 2010 by a group of entrepreneurs, Alivia is the brainchild of Dr Vidar Arnulf, an anaesthesiologist from Norway with more than 30 years of experience in the healthcare industry. Richard Kensett, Alivia’s UK Managing Director explained: “With access to advanced medical intelligence with global reach that no other health management service can provide, Alivia can truly make a difference to people’s lives.”

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WALLY CLASS INTRODUCES YACHT RACING APPIn an industry first, yacht manufacturer Wally has launched a mobile application for yacht racing. “The yachting market is very conservative and Wally has always led the pack, introducing all the main innovations today used by the industry,” said Monica Paolazzi, communications and public relations at Wally.

“Similarly, we’d expect the market to respond also to the Wally Class app generating more interest around our racing division.” The new app gives users direct access to the Wally Class fleet, live racing information, and Wally Class contacts among other features. It is available for iOS and Android.

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VIRGIN ATLANTIC CLUBHOUSE TO OFFER ANTI-AGEING FACIALBeloved by celebrities, the Nouveau A-life anti-ageing facial is now available at both the Heathrow and Gatwick Clubhouse Spas for Virgin Atlantic’s Upper Class customers. Part of the renowned Nouveau Beauty Group, Nouveau Skin Therapy is the official

distributor of A-Lift. Karen Betts, Founder of Nouveau Beauty Group commented: “We’re delighted to be working with Virgin Atlantic and bringing this product to their Clubhouses. Unlike many other anti- ageing facial treatments, A-Lift is non-invasive and causes no redness or irritation to the skin. It can also be done in a short space of time, making it the perfect pre-flight treatment.”

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MASERATI AND LA MARTINA LAUNCH #POLOSTORIESItalian car manufacturer Maserati has partnered with Argentine sportswear brand La Martina to launch a global storytelling project anchored by a video series. The parallels between the equestrian and automotive worlds were highlighted in the first episode, which features polo player Ebe Sievwright entering a

Maserati while a voiceover draws connections between the preparation for racing and riding. This creative project will follow the Maserati Polo Tour closely and will tell a different story at each stage of the World Tour. Each episode will unveil one of the limited edition polo shirts created by La Martina for Maserati, with only 300 pieces available to celebrate each leg of the Maserati Polo Tour.

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THE MARK HOTEL INTRODUCES 24-HOUR WELLNESS CONCIERGE The Mark Hotel has upped its fitness game with the introduction of its exclusive in-house service for guests visiting New York. The new Wellness Concierge team is on hand around-the-clock for insider knowledge and access to the city’s finest fitness classes. Through the Wellness Concierge,

New York’s renowned personal trainer, Dan Flores, is available to tailor a one-on-one session to each individual’s needs. Set on the Upper East Side with Central Park on its doorstep, The Mark offers maps of the best jogging tracks in Central Park, a fleet of custom bicycles to navigate the park, or branded yoga mats for a spot of sun salutation.

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REEF HOUSE VILLA AVAILABLE TO RENT Located on the east end of Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, Oil Nut Bay is one of the world’s most secluded and pristine natural settings. Now, guests have the chance to experience this area of natural beauty by staying at the Reef House Villa, which was recently placed on Oil Nut Bay’s rental scheme. Accessible only

by boat or helicopter, it is a unique retreat for the discerning jetsetter. As one would expect, the property features ocean views, three spacious bedrooms, and a wide range of activities including water sports, spa treatments and hiking. Reef House Villa also offers access to luxury amenities and a concierge service.

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PARK HYATT MALLORCA NOW ACCEPTING RESERVATIONS Overlooking the picturesque Canyamel valley, Park Hyatt Mallorca marks the company’s entry into the Spanish island. “Mallorca is one of Europe’s most beautiful areas, and we believe that Park Hyatt Mallorca will deliver an unprecedented level of luxury and an unrivaled hospitality experience for guests,”

said Peter Norman, Senior Vice President, Real Estate and Development for EAME, Hyatt Hotels & Resorts. Park Hyatt Mallorca features 142 luxurious guest rooms and 16 sumptuously designed suites. The majority of the hotel’s food and beverage produce will be sourced locally – from sustainably caught fish to free-range poultry, local farm-grown vegetables, fruit and olives and seasonally procured cheese and olive oil.

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KATAMAMA BOUTIQUE HOTEL OPENS IN BALISet on one of the last parcels of land in Seminyak, Bali’s most prestigious oceanfront region, Katamama is a newly opened 58-suite boutique hotel. An intimate and serene establishment, it is the first hotel by the Jakarta-based PTT Family, the Group behind the highly successful Potato Head

Beach Club. Showcasing the finest in Indonesian craftsmanship and culture, renowned local architect Andra Martin worked with Singapore-based design company Takenouchi Webb to incorporated Balinese bricks, teak, hand-made tiles from Java and terrazzo made on-site into the interior décor. Katamama is a member of the Preferred Hotels Legend Collection.

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KATA ROCKS: WORLD’S FIRST SUPER YACHT HOTEL OPENS Situated near Kata in Phuket, the newly opened Sky Villas at Kata Rocks promises the experience of a super yacht – on land. The 43 villas comprise one-, two-, three-, or four-bedroom residences, with fully fitted kitchens, living and dining areas, and floor-to-ceiling glass patio doors. In addition, there

is a sea view restaurant, a 35–metre infinity pool with poolside bar, and its very own jetty allowing access by private yacht. Contemporary super yacht design influences can be seen in the wall-to-wall glass, and the bed and sunken bath overlooking the Andaman Sea. Guests also have access to the use of a private chef and celebrity DJs.

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DESERT PALM PER AQUUM LAUNCHES VILLA LAYALIA short drive from downtown Dubai, the just-unveiled Villa LAYALI by Desert Palm PER AQUUM is a three-bedroom property spanning 845-square metres amongst the tall palm trees. With interiors by the award-winning designer Isabelle Miaja, the villa exudes Arabian avant-

garde luxury. Guests arrive via a private entrance, entering through high gates to the villa gardens where they will be greeted by water features and a 60-square metre swimming pool. During Dubai’s polo season from October to April, equestrian enthusiasts can enjoy great views of the action, which takes place just metres from the villa.

HOSPITALITY

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

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HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL ADDS TO ITS HOLISTIC OFFERINGThe Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre at London’s Hotel Café Royal has expanded their world-class panel of wellbeing specialists. Complementing the existing wellbeing offering at Akasha, the first external experts were brought in last year and have been proved a welcome addition to the Spa. With the introduction of Bernice

Robinson (Reiki Master) and Yan Sophokleous (Wellness Massage and Martial Arts Trainer), Akasha cements its position as a leader in its field of hospitality. Hotel Café Royal – along with Conservatorium in Amsterdam and Lutetia in Paris (currently under renovation) – is a member of The Set hotels, a collection which reinvents Grand Dame properties in some of Europe’s greatest cities.

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SOMABAY LAUNCHES THE SUMMER EXPERIENCE PROGRAMMEOne of Egypt’s foremost destinations, Somabay, has unveiled its Summer Experience progamme. Valid until 30th September 2016, the offer includes golfing, scuba diving, kitesurfing and even spa treatments at The Cascades Spa & Thalasso. With over 65 treatment rooms, the renowned

Cascades Spa & Thalasso features a 750-square metre Thalasso-Tonic Hydrotherapy Pool filled with seawater. The area is also the perfect location for scuba diving, where guests can explore coral reefs in a large turquoise lagoon. Somabay holiday resort offers five luxury hotels: The Kempinski Hotel, Westin Soma Bay Golf Resort & Spa, Robinson Club, Sheraton Soma Bay Resort and The Breakers Diving and Surfing Lodge.

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PERA PALACE HOTEL JUMEIRAH INTRODUCES MENU INSPIRED BY FAMOUS GUESTSJacqueline Onassis, Greta Garbo and Ernest Hemingway are just three of the extraordinary roster of famous guests that have inspired the new menu at the historic Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah. Since the hotel first

opened in 1892, many of the greatest personas of the 19th and 20th centuries have passed through its doors. The ‘Historical Dinner Menu’ comprises four courses, each of which were specifically created with a personality in mind. For instance, the antipasti (‘Salmon a’la Garbo’) is named after renowned Greta Garbo who stayed at the hotel for 50 days in 1924.

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W HOTELS UNVEILS W SOUND SUITES Bali is having somewhat of a pioneering moment, with yet another first in the world of hospitality. W Hotels Worldwide, in partnership with Coca-Cola, has debuted the premier W Sound Suite at W Bali. “W has a long history of musicians staying, playing, and celebrating at our hotels,” said Anthony Ingham, Global Brand Leader,

W Hotels Worldwide. “We know that inspiration can strike at any moment, so the W Sound Suite is today’s tech-savvy version of scribbling lyrics on a cocktail napkin.” This private recording studio concept will come to W Hollywood, W Barcelona and W Seattle, later this year.

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VILLA GURU REVEALS NEW HILLSIDE RETREATUltra-luxury villa specialists Villa Guru has unveiled their collection of exciting properties for the summer. One of the highlights is the brand new Villa M, tucked away on a beautiful hillside just minutes from Monaco. With unrivalled views of the Mediterranean Sea, the villa has a heated rooftop swimming pool

and terrace, complete with pool house BBQ and pizza oven. For the gym-lovers, there is a fully equipped fitness studio, complete with sauna, steam room and tropical shower.

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JEWELLERY + WATCHES

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BULGARI SETS NEW STANDARD FOR ULTRA-THIN WATCHThe Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is the latest addition to the line of ultra-thin watches developed by Italian brand Bulgari. In fact, the model now takes the title of the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon: the overall case thickness amounts to only 6.85mm. To create this striking timepiece, the team had to go back

to the drawing board and tackle the problem of how to achieve the perfect sound within the smallest possible space. Made from titanium, the case is not only lightweight but also ensures the best possible sound diffusion. The outcome is a crystal-clear chime, the likes of which it is hard to rival. This watch is strictly limited to a 50-piece run.

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CHOPARD CONTINUES ITS ‘JOURNEY TO SUSTAINABLE LUXURY’ Building on its successful collaboration with the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) in South America, Chopard has just announced a unique partnership with Gemfields, the world’s single largest producer of coloured gemstones. To celebrate the launch of this new phase of the

journey, Chopard revealed a capsule collection of Green Carpet High Jewellery within its Red Carpet Collection at Cannes Film Festival. Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard said: “Chopard is defined by true luxury and today this means knowing where the precious materials in our jewellery come from and having this independently validated. Gemfields’ fabled emeralds are a wonderful addition to our Green Carpet Collection of High Jewellery.”

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BREMONT ADDS TO ITS AMERICA’S CUP COLLECTIONFollowing the release of Bremont’s first range of ladies watches earlier this year, the British manufacturer has announced the addition of a ladies mechanical chronometer to its America’s Cup Collection. The Bremont AC I 32 is inspired by the original AC I, and the legendry J-Class yachts of the 30s. Bearing the ‘London’ mark

on the dial, the timepiece will be built in the UK and is limited to 535 pieces. Bremont Co-Founder, Giles English, explained: “The AC I has proven to be an incredibly popular timepiece since we launched it last year and has led to lots of enquiries by women who were after a ladies version, so this seemed like a natural extension to the line.”

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE JOINS FORCES WITH CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTINTo commemorate the 85th anniversary of the iconic Reverso model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has invited footwear maestro Christian Louboutin to reinterpret the timepiece. “I have always loved the shape of the watch, and would never have agreed to this project if I had not been deeply convinced

that I loved the original design of this object”, says Christian Louboutin. Available in two sizes, the Reverso Classic Duetto retains its original face on the front, while the back and strap takes on a distinctly Christian Louboutin touch of wildness. These limited edition creations are available for just one year as part of the Atelier Reverso concept in Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques.

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IWC SHOWS SUPPORT FOR SPORTIWC Schaffhausen has released a special edition of its Portofino Automatic Moonphase 37 watch. A portion of proceeds from the timepiece will support Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, and marks ten years of commitment to the charity. The midnight blue dial references the Laureus logo, accentuated by diamonds marking

each hour. Each year, children from Laureus projects around the world submit drawings to be engraved on the back of the watch. This year’s winner is 16-year-old Eleni Partakki – a participant in the PeacePlayers International Cyprus project, which unites children from divided Cypriot communities on the basketball court. The watch was launched in conjunction with Laureus announcing Olympic medalist Victoria Pendleton as an ambassador. 1,500 editions have been created.

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MIKIMOTO ADDS TO POPULAR VINTAGE COLLECTION An ancient tradition, the belief in birthstones is still referenced today. As the gemstone for the month of June, the pearl symbolises loyalty, faithfulness and friendship. To celebrate June ‘Pearl Month’, Japanese jewellery house Mikimoto has added new pieces to their successful Vintage Collection.

Inspired by the glamour of the 1920s and 30s, the in-house design team has trawled the archives for accessories that could be reinterpreted for today’s client. The resulting pendants feature the most lustrous cultured Akoya pearls and dazzling diamonds, set in 18k white gold.

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GREYHOURS MAKES INDESTRUCTIBLE WATCH Sometimes luxury means costly, and sometimes luxury means the freedom from worrying about damaging your watch. An independent direct-to-consumer business, Greyhours’ watch boasts a Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating that provides extraordinary scratch and corrosion resistance,

meaning there will be no sign of wear or scratches, even after a decade of daily use. These minimalist, contemporary timepieces are available in matte black or white, and feature an Italian calf leather strap and anti-reflective glass.

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JESSICA MCCORMACK LAUNCHES COUTURE BRIDAL COLLECTIONBritish jewellery designer Jessica McCormack has created a Couture Bridal Collection for the modern bride. “I want to create engagement rings that speak to the uniqueness of each woman,” explains McCormack. “A ring that you wear every day is more than just a symbol of love. It is also

a reflection of personality and history.” To that end, the six couture pieces can be created bespoke around different diamonds, from 0.20 carat to 20.00 carat. Each ring design pays homage to tradition in one sense: they take a diamond as their focal point. As a designer, McCormack draws inspiration from such eclectic sources as Tetris and the natural world, so it makes sense that her first bridal collection would be similarly unique.

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CHRISTOPHE CLARET REVEALS NEW VERSIONS OF THE X-TREM-1 Swiss watchmakers Christophe Claret has unveiled two new versions of the iconic X-TREM-1 timepiece, both issued in an eight-piece limited edition. Available in either red gold and damascened steel, or white gold and damascened steel, the distinctive watches features a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle,

mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate. Damascened steel was first made in the Caucasus around 2500 BC, soon after the discovery of iron. Thereafter, it spread throughout Europe as well as Asia, before being entirely forgotten during the Middle Ages. The Crusaders rediscovered it, and as a keen student of history Christophe Claret felt it would be an interesting material to use in his collection.

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.HOLLIE BONNEVILLE BARDEN NAMED AS JOHN HARDY’S NEW CREATIVE DIRECTORLuxury jeweller John Hardy has named their new creative director. Hollie Bonneville Barden is the youngest person ever to be appointed the position. However, with her recent stint as the head designer at De Beer Diamond Jewellery,

Bonneville Barden brings a wealth of experience that belies her age. “Hollie is recognised as an industry prodigy and we are excited to see her interpret John Hardy’s rich heritage and continue our dedication to creating ultimate beauty through artisan handcrafted jewellery,” said Robert Hanson, CEO of John Hardy. Bonneville Barden will split her time between New York, where the brand’s global headquarters and showroom are located, and Ubud, Bali, where the brand’s design studio and workshop have been located since its founding.

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Luxury Briefing Issue 188

When Louis Vuitton (established

in 1854), advertised on his

shop on Boulevard Haussmann

that the Empress Eugenie was

a customer, he was already

using social endorsement as

a marketing strategy. Today,

most creators have built their

initial success by building strong

relationships with a small

community of influential clients.

Louis Vuitton today boasts

over 18M likes on Facebook,

Chanel 13M and Chloé is the

fashion house that has women

talking the most on social media,

but this didn’t happen overnight

and certainly not in response to

beautiful adverts.

Making the most of social

media marketing and for that

matter, Influencer Marketing,

implies having a strategy. It’s

not about the likes, it’s all

about romance that becomes a

relationship. Romance sells and

relationships are meant to last

through achieving authentic

engagement and resonance.

REACH OR RELEVANCE?Selecting the right individuals

is paramount. One easy mistake

is to go for the social media

celebrities who seem to offer the

best reach and whom your brand

would like to be associated with.

If this may give easy and quick

returns, it will not give you the

creative depth and long term

loyalty you need. So one simple,

but often forgotten, rule is to

engage people who already have

an affinity with your brands.

BEYOND LUXURYLuxury brands have long invested

in territories that have in turn

nurtured their history and values:

Louis Vuitton with travel, Hermès

with horse riding, Longines with

competition. Influencers that

can have an impact on a brand’s

audience do not only publish

about watches, haute couture or

It bags.

Looking beyond the usual

“fashion and lifestyle” influencers

will be key for luxury brands that

wish to increase their impact and

be relevant to their audience.

CONFLICT OF PERSONALITIESSocial influencers expect to

be seen and welcomed as

collaborators. They know their

worth and they have a wealth

of knowledge to share. They

are also mindful of their own

communities and of their own

image. Give them a voice and

you will be contributing to their

success as much as they are to

yours. Trust them and in return

they will talk about you like

no-one else. They will include

you in their lives and your brand

will become part of the narrative

that makes them so successful.

It’s a win-win situation that is

most likely to turn into long-

term fruitful collaboration if you

play fair.

SCALING EXCLUSIVITYThe notion of luxury has always

been associated to exclusivity,

mystery and even scarcity. When

some of the most advanced

brands are able to manage

influencer programmes of a

few hundred or thousands

influencers, how should luxury

How can luxury labels make the most of social media in an

age of digital saturation? Traackr’s Vice President EMEA,

Nicolas Chabot, considers

Influencer Marketing In The Luxury Sector

Digital thinker

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brands optimise the balance

between scaling impact and

staying consistent with the

exclusivity they wish to preserve?

The audiences are there

but retaining your most loyal

customers and those who

associate luxury with exclusivity

is paramount. Traditional luxury

buyers may not be as social as

your new audiences but they are

still adopting digital behaviours.

PAYING FOR PRAISE?Some question why the most

aspirational brands on earth

pay selected égéries to represent

them. Should they duplicate this

established model and pay for

praise from online influencers or

should they aim to leverage their

formidable attractiveness, history

and content to build authentic

relationship and brand advocacy?

Savvy brands have long since

realised that they actually don’t

need to pay for endorsements,

as the best and most impactful

endorsements by influencers

come from a place of authenticity.

Brands must develop and

nurture relationships with

influencers, which starts by

making a human connection and

putting the influencers’ needs

first. Such organic endorsements

don’t require a monetary

exchange between the brand and

the influencer, and they produce

the most impact. Value exchange

doesn’t mean money exchange.

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

LETTING GO…OR NOT?Whilst luxury brands exert a

strict control over their image

and position, user generated

content online has challenged

the exclusivity of their message.

This is one of the reasons brands

have been tempted to pay

influencers so they kept control

of the message. However, the

lack of authenticity, which is so

important to luxury brands, will

be apparent.

The route that has been

chosen by the most savvy luxury

brands is to co-create content with

their selected influencers so the

content remains on brand and

curate and share the most aligned

user generated content.

STATUS SYMBOL AND PRIVACY IN THE SOCIAL AGEHNWIs cherish their privacy; and

at the same time the new affluent

millennials do not hesitate to

Instagram their new £20,000

watch publicly.

This diversification of the

luxury buyer segments, each

with different expectations, can

be tricky to handle for a luxury

brand. It may be the reason why

luxury brands took a long time

to embrace digital and even

more so social media. Brands

must both protect the privacy

of their traditional buyers while

giving the millennials generation

what it expects in terms of

communication and engagement.

THE QUEST FOR PERFECTION AND CRAFTIndeed, key influencers for a

luxury brands, will have high

expectations when associating

Influencers are the luxury brands’ new stakeholders and have the same characteristics

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with a luxury brand. Luxury

brands, more than any others,

need to provide the highest level

of quality to their influencer

programme. However, they

already have in place many

activities that once used to be

reserved to their customers

and the media that they can

now involve influencers with.

These are often money can’t buy

opportunities: VIP access to their

events, visits of their factories,

exclusive content, meeting their

team, product loans or testing.

GLOBAL LOCALLYInfluencers are the luxury

brands’ new stakeholders and

have the same characteristics: in

today’s mobile world, whatever

their language and whatever

their location, they will most

likely have a global reach.

They will expect being treated

the same way as the brand’s

customers. Therefore, structuring

and organising influencer

programmes at a global level

whilst enabling building and

maintaining relationships locally

will be key.

In conclusion, influencer

marketing in luxury will require

careful planning and the right

technology to optimize flawless

execution. Smart influencer

relationship management

platforms will be a key to success

by helping brands identify the

right people, engage with them,

manage their relationship, and

measure impact in real time.

Luxury White Paper is available for download at www.traackr.com and includes interviews with leading global luxury brands

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FOOD + DRINK

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CHAPEL DOWN LAUNCHES GRAPE BRANDY This month sees the release of Chapel Down’s unique English grape brandy: Lamberhurst. Made from the 1991 harvest of the Lamberhurst Vineyard, the spirit has been aged in oak for 23 years. Mark Harvey, Chapel Down Managing Director, explains: “This is a magnificent and unique brandy made

from one of England’s pioneering vineyards that has exclusively supplied Chapel Down for 20 years. Like all good things, it’s taken time, patience and skill to make something of which we are very proud.” The Seyval Blanc grape variety grown in the Kent vineyard has given this drink a complex palate of apples, cinnamon and spice.

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KRUG RELEASES CLOS DU MESNIL 2002The global launch of Krug’s Clos du Mesnil 2002 is sure to be one of the highlights of this year for oenophiles. “2002 was a very special year,” says Krug Cellar Master, Eric Lebel. “It was clement and generous, consistently warm, relatively dry, granting ideal conditions for grape maturation.” Each of the 13,278 bottles (75cl) and

500 magnums (1.5l) of Krug Clos du Mesnil 2002 is individually numbered and comes complete with the Krug ID, which can be used in conjunction with the Krug App.

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WALLPAPER* BAR + KITCHEN OPENS AT HARVEY NICHOLS Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge has partnered with design magazine Wallpaper* to create a contemporary Bar + Kitchn in the recently opened menswear department. Marion Carpentier, Group Food & Hospitality Director at Harvey Nichols, comments, “We are incredibly excited to be working with Wallpaper*

to create a new and exciting hospitality offering to celebrate the launch of our new Menswear Department at Harvey Nichols Knightsbridge. The new menswear floors will be an unrivalled experience in luxury retail and customer experiences, creating the ultimate destination for men in London.” As for drinks, there is a wide range of craft beers, wines, sparkling wines, and cocktails – all of which are created by mixologists who work at bars featured in Drinks International’s World’s 50 Best Bars 2015 list.

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FOUR SEASONS PRIVATE JET LAUNCHES CULINARY DISCOVERIES TOURStarting at the end of May, Four Seasons will take guests on a three-week itinerary across the world’s most exciting culinary destinations. The programme has been developed in partnership with one of the world’s best restaurants, Copenhagen-based

Noma, and its acclaimed head chef René Redzepi. Kicking things off in Seoul, Chef Jong Kuk Lee opens his home to a private dinner showcasing his farm-to-table philosophy. From there, the route stops off in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Chiang Mai, Mumbai, Florence, Lisbon, Copenhagen, and Paris. This first-of-its-kind journey features Four Seasons’ legendary service and guests will stay at Four Seasons hotels and resorts throughout the trip.

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SOHO HOUSE UNVEILS LATEST OFFERINGLocated on London’s Shaftsbury Avenue, the newly opened Café Monico is the latest venture from the relentless Soho House group. Inspired by the original restaurant of the same name, which was established in 1877, the reincarnated Café Monico features a menu with European influences. From Provence to

Northern Italy, chef Rowley Leigh’s all-day menu offers dishes such as oysters, steak, duck confit, or salads. Drinks include classic Soho House cocktails and sodas, a wide selection of beers, and an impressive wine list. As for décor, the showstopper is a three-metre vintage glass and brass chandelier, which hangs in the centre of the mezzanine. It was sourced from an antique store in Amsterdam, to give the brasserie an authentic feel.

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THE LAST DROP RELEASES EXCLUSIVE SCOTCH WHISKY Known as ‘the world’s most exclusive spirits company’, The Last Drop Distillers has launched the sixth bottling in its collection: The Last Drop 50 Year Old. A rare and luscious ‘double-matured’ blended Scotch whisky, each one is bottled by hand – unfiltered and unrefined from the cask – before being sealed

with a cork that has been dipped in boiling wax. Andrew Rankin, ‘nose’ to The Last Drop distillers, describes the blend thus: “On the palate, the whisky is rich and smooth with generous dark raisin, star anise and baked plums. The finish is luscious and lingering; red grape and blackcurrant with a subtle overtone of liquorice.”

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LA MAISON MAILLE OFFERS LIMITED EDITION MUSTARDPremium French mustard brand Maille has brought out a new limited edition Grand Cru Rosemary Honey Mustard. Made with a blend of Maille’s finest Dijon mustard with an exceptional rosemary honey, the gourmet condiment is served fresh from the pump at the Maille boutique in a green sandstone jar made

in Burgundy. Sourced from a renowned family of French beekeepers, the honey is the unique result of the rosemary plants that grow so well in the soil and climate of the Pyrenees on the west side of the French Mediterranean coast.

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MOËT & CHANDON BREAKS NEW GROUND WITH ICE IMPÉRIAL ROSÉThis summer, Moët & Chandon has produced the first ever champagne designed to be served on the rocks. The Moët Ice Impérial Rosé celebrates the pioneering spirit of the brand, and this boldness is encapsulated in the new look bottle, which features a metallic

white gloss wrap, and the iconic Moët & Chandon tie is updated in a vibrant shade of pink. Offering an entirely new way to enjoy Moët, this clean, crisp drink is sure to delight both champagne and rosé lovers alike.

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THE MACALLAN COMPLETES ITS SIX PILLARS COLLECTIONFans of whiskies will be thrilled with the news that The Macallan has released its final whisky in the Six Pillars range. Bottled in a bespoke Lalique crystal decanter, the spirit is limited to just 450 individually numbered decanters. “This stunning collection of decanters is the result of two kindred spirits, rooted

in a shared passion for craftsmanship, detail and mastery,” said Ken Grier, brand director for The Macallan. “This sixth and final release continues to showcase the unwavering commitment of both the masters of Lalique and The Macallan to create beautiful and desirable objet d’art.” The famous Lalique perfume bottles inspired the design of the whisky decanters.

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.THE RITZ-CARLTON, ABAMA LAUNCHES NEW ABAMA KABUKI CONCEPTThe Ritz-Carlton, Abama in Tenerife has revamped their Abama Kabuki concept this summer. First introduced in 2006, the Michelin-starred Japanese fusion eatery has relocated to a larger premise with a brand new sushi bar. Now located within

Abama’s Casa Club, the 12,000-square feet dining space boasts four zones: the main restaurant (Kabuki Room), Kabuki Bar, Sushi Bar and Kabuki Space. Kabuki space is the restaurant’s private dining area, which offers bespoke menus for up to ten guests. To supplement the outstanding food on offer, the drinks collection boasts 300 wines, 30 beers, cocktails, and a selection of high-grade teas.

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TRAVEL + AVIATION

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

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WINNERS OF WORLD SUPERYACHT AWARDS 2016Boat International Media, the world’s leading superyacht magazine, has revealed the winners of the World Superyacht Awards 2016. Nearly 70 superyachts were entered into this year’s awards, with 47 of the world’s most renowned boat builders and shipyards from 15 different countries represented.

In this 11th outing of the prestigious awards, Unfurled, Savannah, and Genesi swept the board with two trophies apiece. Stewart Campbell, editor of Boat International remarked: “The World Superyacht Awards have become synonymous with excellence in superyacht build and design, and this year is no exception. We’re thrilled to have built a platform for yacht owners and shipyards across the world to receive critical acclaim through the presentation of the prestigious Neptune trophy.”

4

ATHENAEUM HOTEL & RESIDENCES PARTNERS WITH LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM Running from August 4th 2016 to March 5th 2017, the Down Street Tours is an exciting opportunity for visitors to experience the abandoned Down Street tube station in London. “We are delighted to announce the Athenaeum Hotel & Residences

as the official partner of London Transport Museum’s Hidden London Down Street tour,” comments Jeremy Hopkins, General Manager of The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences. “Our apartments were built in 1890 so Down Street would have been the closest tube station for many visitors.” Afterwards, guests will be able to return to the hotel for refreshments as an optional addition to the package.

3

FEMALE FRIENDLY VERVE RALLY LAUNCHES IN EUROPE Although a carbon-neutral car rally might sound like an oxymoron, Verve Rally is not your typical race. In fact, it isn’t technically a race at all – as the nine-day event is not about speed or endurance. Instead, the female-friendly Verve rally has been designed to be enjoyed. Co-

founder Darshana Ubl explains: “Verve Rally is about celebrating life, the spirit of adventure and gratitude. It’s about enjoying the freedom of the open road, about embracing the summer and an opportunity to enjoy the beauty of our land and revel in sensory experience, one city at a time.” Held on the 30th July and 3rd September 2016, Verve Rally’s route traverses some of Europe’s finest locations including Lake Como, Monte Carlo, and the famous Black Forest.

1

CATHAY PACIFIC’S FIRST A350 ARRIVES IN HONG KONGThe first of 48 A350s has been delivered to Cathay Pacific at Hong Kong International Airport. “We understand that for our passengers, sleeping well, enjoying first-class entertainment, and using products that have been designed with them in mind are of the utmost importance. The new A350 will provide the very

best of all these,” explains Cathay Pacific Chief Operating Officer Rupert Hogg commented. The new aircraft features Cathay Pacific’s latest inflight products in the Business Class, Premium Economy Class and Economy Class cabins, thus helping to deliver on its promise of a Life Well Travelled. Powered by the latest technology Rolls-Royce Trent XWB engines, the A350 is the quietest plane in its class and also 25% more fuel-efficient.

2

EMIRATES OPENS NEW LOUNGE AT CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTAll Emirates First Class and Business Class customers, as well as Skywards Platinum and Gold members travelling from Cape Town to Dubai will now have complimentary access to the new two-level premium lounge. Able to accommodate over

120 people, the facility has been designed with comfort and convenience in mind. In conjunction with the complimentary chauffeur drive service in Cape Town, dedicated check-in counters, and Emirates’ award-winning on-board service, premium customers enjoy a seamless journey from start to finish. Located in the international departures corridor next to Emirates’ preferred boarding point at Gate A3, this is the 39th lounge in the airline’s network.

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

23

Technology has always been

defined as the application of

scientific knowledge for practical

purposes but we’ve now entered

a generation of technology where

we can harness practical life

improvements in ways previously

only dreamed of.

One area that has seized this

tech opportunity is Health &

Wellness. This sector is booming

with software, apps, wearables

and medical equipment to treat

and improve patient experience

and recovery; to fitness and

performance tracking tools; to

a host of online content. They

have much to teach the luxury

industry in terms of how to

curate and manage experiential

communications.

NEW SKILLS, POSSIBILITIES AND SOLUTIONSInnovative tech companies are

working with academia on

solutions to age-old human

problems. One of these problems,

that impacts all aspects of life, is

not getting enough sleep.

Described as the world’s most

advanced sleep system Pzizz is an

example of an entrepreneurial

company tapping into this cultural

movement, using technology to

give people the ultimate luxury of

perfect sleep.

“As I’ve gone deeper and

deeper into this sleep journey

I’m amazed at how big a problem

sleep really is,” says Rockwell Shah

Pzizz’s CEO, “About 30% of the

world’s population has poor sleep.

They don’t have the energy to

show up and live life, they’re not

running at 100%.”

ART + SCIENCE = INNOVATIONPzizz has created a solution using

sound to put you to sleep, keep you

asleep and then wake you. Leaving

you feeling refreshed by enabling

higher amounts of REM sleep.

The research behind the

product focuses on psycho-

acoustics – the way sound affects

the mind – but the science is also

paired with advanced software

that allows audio engineers to

deliver a unique ‘dreamscape’ -

as Pzizz call the sounds you hear.

“There’s an art and a science

to this. Science tells you what

you need to do to send someone

to sleep - you have to grasp their

attention enough so they stop

over-thinking but not so much that

you keep them awake - but science

won’t give you the actual sounds.

That’s where really talented audio

engineers come in,” explains Shah.

A combination of voice-overs,

music, sound effects and binaural

beats in a human-composed,

algorithmically remixed package

allows Pzizz to intelligently

optimize your sleep at every phase

BESPOKE DOESN’T JUST APPLY TO TAILORING If a luxury brand cannot offer a

truly bespoke product it can be just

as valuable to create a bespoke

experience with which to tell

your brand story. For instance

Pzizz are working on embedding

their interface into products such

as high-end corporate nap pods

for Google, Facebook, Cisco and

JFK airport.

A luxury interiors business

could easily embed this software

into beds, bedroom fixtures, even

pillows, and the opportunity for

luxury hotels, medical facilities

and even elite schools to amplify

the benefits of sleep is clear.

“Most sleep solutions focus

on changing your behaviour

but with Pzizz you don’t have to

change the way you live, just use

the product.

One of the fun things we’ll

probably do in the future is

integrate Pzizz with Amazon

Echo so you can say ‘Alexa put me

to sleep!’”

THE FUTURE OF WEARABLES “Right now we’re seeing many

wearables on the market but

in my opinion the days of

fancy dashboards showing you

meaningless data about your

health are quickly coming to

an end,” says Shah, “People

don’t want more data they want

better outcomes.”

Increasingly we’ll see digital

products that directly affect your

health and wellbeing. Further

progress depends of course

on science having a deeper

understanding of the human mind

but also on consumer products

being able to take learnings from

science and apply them in the

consumer realm.

Shah constantly considers

new functionalities - for instance

two people able to hear the same

sequence thousands of miles apart;

voice-overs narrated by someone

you love; recordings of your own

voice for your children or travelling

loved ones. Just imagine the

consumer love you could nurture

by working with this kind of deep,

human experience at the touch of

a button.

Luxury should offer a seamless

service that makes life easier.

As technology like this becomes

woven into daily life, it will

effortlessly take luxury consumers

from off-line to on-line without

them noticing for a highly

personal, tailored experience that

delivers exactly what they want in

the most efficient way possible.

Next in the series: Coin Research

examines mindfulness and holidays

C O I N R E S E A R C H

Putting tech innovation at the heart of luxury

TAPPING NEW TECHNOLOGIES WILL HELP DEVELOP YOUR LUXURY BRAND AND PRODUCTS FOR A MODERN AUDIENCE. NOW, MORE THAN EVER, IS THE TIME TO PUT INNOVATION AT THE CORE OF YOUR COMPANY AND RECOGNISE THE POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS TO THE LUXURY BUSINESS.Ruth Marshall-Johnson and Shifra Cook

Luxury futures

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

We continue our six-part series on putting tech innovation at the heart

of luxury with Coin Research

WHAT CAN LUXURY BRANDS LEARN FROM THIS?

2424

The city of Helsinki has a

buzzing, innovative retail

core - offering everything

from inventive boutiques and

concept stores to cutting-edge

interiors brands. High streets

such as Aleksanterinkatu,

Pohjoisesplanadi, Keskuskatu,

and Mikonkatu are the best

known locations with the largest

variety of retailers, with a

cluster of stores around the high

end shopping centre Galleria

Esplanad, department store

Stockmann and Kluuvikatu. These

locations host a wide range of

the main brands and shops in

the Helsinki CBD, varying from

foreign and domestic luxury

brands, to cafes and restaurants.

In the Helsinki CBD, Kirkkokatu,

Hämeenkatu and Yliopistonkatu

attract the main international

brands outside shopping centres.

These high streets also include

large Finnish department stores

such as Stockmann and Sokos.

Helsinki’s Pohjoisesplanadi

is the city’s luxury enclave - a

street where global mega-brands

such as Louis Vuitton and Hermès

are found alongside innovative

design labels and womenswear

boutiques. Nearby Eteläesplanadi

is also an attraction, home to

cool interior design shops such

as Artek and 1-Store, along with

smaller, craft-focused boutiques

that support local artists.

Whilst Pohjoisesplanadi,

Mikonkatu, Eteläesplanadi and

Aleksanterinkatu boast the

On Fifth Avenue, Niketown to join

Apple in the former FAO Schwarz

space, 767 Fifth Avenue. Swiss

watch brand Hublot introduced

its largest flagship in the US and

the tallest in the world to 743 Fifth

Avenue. Exclusive jewelry retailer

Harry Winston is renovating

and will close its flagship at

718 Fifth Avenue moving into

a temporary space down the

block at 55th Street. Dominico

Vacca has consolidated all of

his New York locations into one

spectacular superstore at 15 West

55th Street off Fifth. Outerwear

retailer North Face took 20,000

square feet at 510 Fifth Avenue.

On the Upper West Side, Joie

is opening at 201 Columbus

Avenue.

In SoHo, The British retailer

Matchesfashion has a first

stateside location with a popup

townhouse at 214 Lafayette Street.

Burton Snowboards relocating

to 69 Greene Street.

In Tribeca, Alex and Ani will

expand its presence to 156 Reade

Street. Tracy Anderson building

a 4,000-square-foot three-level

flagship at 271 Church Street

NEW YORK NEWS:Department Store Radical Renovations

Bloomingdales to have a gourmet

food market, a full floor mega-shoe

department and several space

swaps. Children’s recently moved

from the eighth and ninth floors

to the fifth floor.

A Mario Batali mini-Eataly concept

being created on the ninth floor.

The two separate shoe departments

merging to create a giant shoe

experience on the fifth floor. The

home department will relocate to

the eighth floor. Bergdorf Goodman,

in a five year renovation including a

completely revamped first floor and

the expansion of the sixth floor to

includes modern luxury brands. In

2018, Nordstrom will open a 285,000

square-foot, seven-level flagship store

in Columbus Circle.

Happy Shopping!

EUROPE NEW YORK

Jonathan de Mello, Harper Dennis HobbsTel: +44 (0) 207 462 8703E: jonathandemello@hdh.co.uk

lion’s share of the city’s fashion

boutiques, part of the unique

shopping appeal of Helsinki lies

in its Design District, a section

of the city with specially selected

stores that showcase the work of

Finland’s finest creatives, with

brands such as Design Forum

Finland, Glope Hope and Kartell

present.

Retailing in Helsinki can

be expensive however, with

prime rents in the city at circa

€2,000/sq.m./year and rising.

This ranks the city in 26th place

globally – ahead of many other

European cities such as Antwerp,

Luxembourg City, Stockholm

and Lisbon. Cost of property is

significantly cheaper outside

the CBD however, with some

secondary locations suffering in

terms of achievable rental levels,

as retailers increasingly focus on

prime areas, which are relatively

constrained in terms of supply.

Faith Hope Consolo, Chairperson of the Retail Group Douglas Elliman Real EstateTel: 001 212 418 2000E: fconsolo@elliman.com

Retailing in Helsinki can be expensive however, with prime rents in the city at circa €2,000/sq.m./year and rising. This ranks the city in 26th place globally

Retail property

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

2525

Early indications in 2016

suggest a reduction in the key

money premiums (KMP); if not

rents within Central London.

This should lead to more

choice for acquisitive brands.

In the circumstances here is

a quick guide to the leasing

activity KMP’s and rents in

individual locations within

comparable streets:-

ALBEMARLE STREET OR CONDUIT STREETAllegedly Aquazzura (No 38)

trades very well and will be

joined by a multi-branded Italian

shoe offer at No 48 (formerly

Ryman). The latest recruits to

Conduit Street include MCM

(currently Dior) and Maiyet

(No 40). 12 fashion brands have

opened in Conduit Street over

the last few years compared with

half a dozen in Albemarle Street

(including Amanda Wakeley,

Faliero Sarti, Alexander Wang,

Globe-Trotter, Gizmondi Jewellers

and a couple of gallerists).

Rent wise anticipate equal

demands from landlords at

£500 Zone A which translates

to approximately £350,000 for

a reasonably sized store. Key

money premiums should not

exceed £500,000 (with notable

exceptions on leases with

historic rentals).

BRUTON STREET OR DOVER STREETUntil the new occupier of the

former Dover Street Market

is announced and a couple of

leasing transactions take place in

Grafton Street (a continuation of

Dover Street) the one sided retail

thoroughfare Bruton Street has

the edge, particularly if a town

house is the preference. Elie Saab

is currently fitting out No 24.

Bruton Street is fully occupied

compared with numerous

opportunities existing with Dover

Street (from town houses at No

41/42, to single buildings at No

14 and boutiques). Golden Goose

Deluxe brand is the latest new

entrant on Dover Street at No 30.

Rents are not dissimilar to

Albemarle Street and Conduit

Street which effectively places all

four streets in the same category

as a natural choice if ‘Bond Street

and Mount Street are not the

appropriate Mayfair locations.

MOUNT STREET OR BROMPTON CROSS50 changes in fascia within

Mount Street and South Audley

Street have transformed the

location in ten years. The street is

definitely the No 1 choice beyond

‘Bond Street within Mayfair.

Spring / Summer openings will

include Sophia Webster (124

Mount Street), Chrome Hearts

(6/10 Mount Row), Valextra

(129 Mount Street) and; to be

announced No 6 Carlos Place. No

14 is still available.

Rents now sit at £550 Zone A

or approximately £400,000 pax

for a reasonably sized boutique.

Key money premiums have

dropped dramatically over the

last six months and are now

much more manageable at less

than £1M.

Ironically a decade ago

Mount Street set out to be

“Better than Brompton Cross”.

The niche, very French and

American retail location in SW3

will feature high on the list of

“preferred locations” with “now

opening” announcements to

follow. Rents in Brompton Cross

are approximately 25% less than

Mount Street with key money

premiums about the same.

LONDON

Keith Wilson, Wilson MchardyTel: +44 (0) 207 439 1666E: keith@wilsonmchardy.com

50 changes in fascia within Mount Street and South Audley Street have transformed the location in ten years The street is definitely the No 1 choice beyond ‘Bond Street within Mayfair

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

26

4

DAVID BECKHAM PARTNERS WITH BIOTHERM HOMMEParisian skincare brand Biotherm Homme has announced the appointment of David Beckham as its first global ambassador. In addition to being the face of the label, Beckham will also collaborate on a range of products including bodycare, grooming and skincare. “I’ve been thinking about developing a skincare range for a long time and it

wasn’t until I started speaking with Biotherm that it all came together. They are as ambitious as I am, and we look forward to showing everyone the fruits of our labour very soon,” said Beckham. Founded in 1952, the L’Oréal-owned beauty brand is best known for its bestselling Aquapower moisturiser.

5

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN BEAUTY UNVEILS NEW NAIL COLLECTIONOver the last 20 years, Christian Louboutin has become synonymous with the colour red. So it is only natural that the brand’s new nail polish collection features a range of red hues. A highly pigmented formula with a serious gloss factor, the varnishes are longwearing,

chip-resistant, and free from Toulene, Formaldehyde, or DBP. Of the trio, Jazzy Doll is a peony red with a subtle sparkle, Lady Peep is a deep raspberry red, and EdgyPopi is a fun orange-red. Established in 2012, Christian Louboutin Beauty introduced nail colour two years later – an appropriate homage to the stroke of red nail colour that inspired its famed red soles back in 1992.

3

AMOUAGE CREATES NEW PERFUMELuxury fragrance brand Amouage has introduced a new perfume named Myths. Devised by creative director Christopher Chong, the scent is available in both male and female versions. “Myths is essentially inspired by surrealism, in which elements are assembled in a dream-like and distorted state in order to create a

new interpretation,” says Chong. “Through surrealism, I was able to interpret my life experiences in an artistic way, without reason or convention, to create fragrances that truly represent a combination of the many facets of my past”. Packaged in distinctive purple glass bottles, the bottle caps are plated in 24-carat gold and adorned with Swarovski crystals.

1

AEDES DE VENUSTAS RELEASES NEW FRAGRANCEInspired by the moonlit desert air, Aedes de Venustas’ sixth offering is a dark twist on vanilla. The perfumer, Fabrice Pellegrin, comes from a fragrance family (his father was a perfumer, his grandfather a perfume ingredient supplier, and his grandmother a jasmine picker). This is his debut collaboration

with Aedes de Venustas. “Our Madagascan vanilla absolute is the truest to the natural ingredient,” explains Pellegrin. He also used black pepper extract in the blend, because “it brings back a childhood memory [of] putting my nose in the drawer of our Peugeot pepper mill to smell freshly ground peppercorns.”

2

AMAN WELLNESS LAUNCHES AT AMANBAGH AND AMANPURIRenowned luxury hotel group Aman has launched Aman Wellness, a new concept to be rolled out across the collection of resorts in 2016. The introduction of its Individual Wellness Immersions, together with a series of Group Retreat Experiences spearheaded by globally

celebrated health specialists, will create a host of options for guests. The first Individual Wellness Immersions will launch at Amanpuri and Amanbagh from 1 August 2016, complemented by a parallel calendar of Group Retreat Experiences conducted throughout the year. Based on a personalised routine, the Individual Wellness Immersion programmes range from three to 14-nights at Amanpuri and four to 21-nights at Amanbagh.

BEAUTY + WELLBEING

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

27

9

M. MICALLEF DESIGNS NEW MALE PERFUME To celebrate its 20th

anniversary this year, the M. Micallef brand has announced new collections, a relaunch of bestsellers and a top-secret surprise at the end of 2016. In the meantime, the high-end perfumery has released a new fragrance for men: Osaïto. For this latest creation, perfumer Martine Micallef drew

inspiration from Asia and its powerful spirituality. The masculine scent opens with a grapefruit aura that is followed closely by myrtle and the spiciness of exotic woods. Encased in a striking 100ml bottle, the Eau de Parfum is produced and handcrafted in in the M.Micallef workshop in Grasse, France.

10

NOSH DETOX LAUNCHES NEW RANGENosh Detox, the UK’s first-ever home detox and weight-loss delivery service of non-pasteurised Juice Diets, Detox and Nutritional Plans, has launched a new range of raw juices. Billed as the world’s first 100% raw smoothie made using exclusive cold press technology known as High Pressure Processing (or HPP), Nosh Detox

delivers across Europe and the UK. Sold in sets containing 8 x 250ml bottles, the newly launched drinks are a quick and convenient way to boost one’s vitamin intake. Founded by Geeta Sidhu-Robb in 2008, Nosh Detox also offers Individual & Bespoke Nutritional Programmes.

7

FACEGYM PRO LAUNCHES NATIONWIDEFaceGym, the UK’s original workout studio for the face, has debuted its signature state-of-the-art facial lifting device. Offering a non-invasive face sculpting, toning and lifting, the gadget is designed to give the facial muscles a comprehensive workout in just 10 minute. What’s more, users benefit from an immediate ‘no

makeup’ contouring effect. The FaceGym PRO designed for Face Gym by Xtreem Pulse utilises patented electrical muscle stimulation (EMS) technology with diamond faceted probes. The device is available in three colours and comes with an exclusively formulated activator gel created by leading facialist Alexandra Soveral.

6

ESPA BRINGS OUT PURIFYING MICELLAR CLEANSERMicellar water – that not-so-secret weapon of makeup artists – has enjoyed a newfound popularity in recent times. With the launch of ESPA’s Purifying Micellar Cleanser, beauty aficionados can now add another option to their arsenals. Made with a 99% natural formula, the hardworking product

cleanses, soothes and hydrates the skin – without the need to rinse. Ingredients include organic rosewater, witch hazel, and chamomile essential oil.

8

MIRAGGIO THERMAL SPA RESORT OPENS IN GREECE Billed as the world’s first beachfront thermae resort, the newly opened Miraggio Thermal Spa Resort is the product of a €90 million investment. Located on the southwest coast of Kassandra, Halkidiki, the resort spans two storeys and boasts a thalassotherapy pool fed directly from the sea. In addition, there are four

thermal pools with steam baths, a Finnish sauna, tepidarium, herbal sauna, cold-plunge walking path, and two experience showers. Guests opting for the ‘healthy board’ package will enjoy meals designed by Amanda Hamilton – a woman The Times has dubbed ‘The Queen of Detox’. The resort will also feature 300 rooms, 236 of which face Toroneos Gulf, and 48 rooms come with private pools.

I N D U S T R Y R E P O R T

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

28

L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

In 1735, George II was on the throne, Robert Walpole moved into 10 Downing Street,

and George Wickes established Garrard. In the same year, the brand received its first

British Royal commission for Frederick, Prince of Wales. Since then, Garrard has had

the honour of serving each successive King and Queen of Great Britain.

Today, the Mayfair-based Garrard crafts fine jewellery, bespoke orders, and sporting

trophies for some of the world’s most prestigious events including the European Tour

British Master’s Open, Invictus Games, and Royal Ascot. Speaking about the high-

profile Ascot supplier rights contract, Jessica Cadzow-Collins FGA, Retail Director at

Garrard, reveals: “I’ve been in the trade for nearly thirty years. I know the style of cups

that the Queen used to take at Ascot, because Asprey used to supply them and I worked

at Asprey. Then it went to Mappin & Webb. When the opportunity to supply Ascot came

to us here at Garrard, I knew exactly what was important to them.”

“Rather than doing anything very modern, or taking a fresh approach, we went

back to basics,” continues Cadzow-Collins. “The Queen herself has great sense of style

and tradition, so we did very classy designs.” Indeed, the five gleaming pure gold-plated

sterling silver cups created for the races epitomise classic elegance.

But that’s not to say the brand is a one-trick pony when it comes to trophy design.

“We also supply the Derby trophy for Investec,” says Cadzow-Collins. “The brief there

was [in keeping with] their strapline ‘Out of the Ordinary’. So the last thing they

wanted was a two-handled cup and covers. You really have to just very carefully listen to

the client, and work out where they’re coming from. I don’t pretend to sit and design

myself, but I can take a brief.”

ROYAL TREATMENT

AS THE OLDEST JEWELLERY HOUSE ON EARTH, GARRARD HAS SERVED KINGS, QUEENS, AND WORLD CHAMPIONS. HERE, THERESA HAROLD DISCOVERS WHAT KEEPS THE HERITAGE

BRAND TIMELESS – YET RELEVANT – IN A MODERN MARKET

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

29

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

30

L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

To be the oldest jewellery house in the world, you have to have an eye for current

trends but with an appreciation for history. That is how we approach all of

our designs – modern heritage

31

Someone who does sit and

design is Sara Prentice, Garrard’s

Creative Director. She has

been with the company since

2012 when she was brought

on as Head of Design. When

it comes to creating trophies,

Prentice echoes Cadzow-Collins.

“Trophy-making is incredibly

bespoke and based around the

tournament and client. For

example, we wouldn’t design

a trophy for a cricket match

that would be similar in style

to an award for excellence.

Trophy designs must serve their

purpose. Therefore, [they] cannot

necessarily be influenced by

trends, however, we always seek

the most innovative techniques

and styles to reflect the times.”

When it comes to innovative

techniques, the advent of

computer-aided design (CAD)

and 3D printing has brought

huge advances to the industry.

Prentice recalls, “We were just

commissioned to replicate a

historic antique Ascot racing

cup for the successful winner to

keep in perpetuity, because the

original is returned to Ascot and

contested each year. We were

able to speed up the process

and keep costs manageable by

using a suite of techniques to

tackle this complex job. From

centuries-old hand spinning,

casting, chasing and engraving,

to state-of-the-art 3D scanning

and 3D printing directly into

investment wax for the intricate

decorative cast central band.”

This juxtaposition of

the contemporary and the

traditional highlights the

adaptability that is necessary for

historical brands to succeed. “To

be the oldest jewellery house in

the world, you have to have an

eye for current trends but with

an appreciation for history,”

says Prentice. “That is how we

approach all of our designs –

modern heritage.”

One such example of this

philosophy in action is the

new TwentyFour jewellery

collection launched this year at

Baselworld. Inspired by the ‘Girls

of Great Britain and Ireland’

tiara that Garrard created in

1893, the TwentyFour collection

features the ‘diamond and

dot’ detailing of the tiara in a

thoroughly modern setting of

stackable pieces. 19th century

design, reinvented for the 21st

century woman.

TROPHY-MAKING IS INCREDIBLY BESPOKE AND BASED AROUND THE TOURNAMENT AND CLIENT

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

Previous page: Royal Ascot Cup

Opposite: Artisan at work

This page: Garrard Albemarle Street flagship

32

L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

However, the 21st century

presents its own set of

challenges for heritage brands

– namely, a shortage of skills.

“There are fewer and fewer

craftsmen of a standard that we

would like to work with coming

through as young apprentices,”

says Cadzow-Collins. “This is

something that we want to

champion ourselves. Taking on

apprentices is something that I

think we all have a duty to do in

our business community.”

So how does a brand such

as Garrard, with its peerless

patrimony, attract a younger

workforce? To that end,

Prentice’s enthusiasm is more

powerful than any recruitment

drive: “The creative process takes

you on a wonderful journey,

but it is the process of fulfilling

the client’s brief and seeing

their excitement – and the glory

of the trophy in the winner’s

uplifted arms – that is the most

rewarding.”

garrard.comThis page, Farfetch headquarters

Bespoke tables in restaurant/events space

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

3333

We are all taking our first

tentative steps in the UK’s journey

to leave the EU, a voyage that

could take two years or more.

Inevitably, there will be more

uncertainty to come. When all

around us is speculation, what

many of us are looking for is some

stability – particularly

when it comes to our own

personal finances.

So, let’s look at what we

do know…

The Bank of England announced

they are ready to do “whatever it

takes” to ensure orderly markets.

Other central banks will support

the markets as it is in their

interests to do so.

The first market reaction to

the news came in the price of

sterling, which swung through a

range of 13.5% against the dollar

over the course of Friday – a

broader range than experienced

on Black Wednesday in 1992

or during the 2008 crash. The

currency reached a 30-year low.

By the end of the day, the

response from stock markets

appeared relatively muted. There

were some sharp initial falls,

although in many cases losses

simply reflected the fact that they

had risen some 5% over the course

of the week, due to growing

confidence that the UK would vote

to remain. Later on Friday 24th

June, stocks began to climb back.

The FTSE 100 ended the week

above where it had begun, rising

2%. Even the more domestically-

oriented the FTSE All-Share

finished slightly up over the five-

day period, despite suffering a fall

of 7.5% on Friday.

The FTSEurofirst 300 suffered

only slightly more, ending

the week down 0.8%. It was

driven down on Friday by

banking stocks, which suffered

heavily after the referendum

result was announced.

What does this mean

for investors?

Even on Friday, some investors

were ready to act, and were

already beginning to spot medium

term opportunities. Investors

have flocked to the perceived safe

haven of gilts and yields have

hit fresh lows as a result. Clearly

there are immediate concerns,

but experience suggests decisions

made on short term developments

could well be at a disadvantage to

those made over the medium to

longer term.

No doubt, making balanced

judgements in diversified

investment opportunities is the

route to take. With a long term

robust financial plan, you can

endure the short term volatility,

remaining calm when all those

around you are losing their heads.

It’s a time when we can look to

the professional Fund Managers,

and take a leaf out of their book.

Their analysis of underlying

companies will not fundamentally

change from before the

referendum. A good company does

not become a different company

overnight. Therefore, if the

prospects are unaltered and prices

are lower, then the investment

opportunities are more attractive.

Fund Managers will be looking

carefully at the medium to long

term implications. They will

not make any changes which

do not support their long term

objectives, and simply take a

perspective that goes beyond the

short term noise.

The same principles should

be applied to our own personal

finances and our own businesses.

Acknowledging there will be

volatility in the short term, which

can be unnerving, but remaining

calm and focused on the bigger

picture and the long-term view.

In the short term, markets

are likely to remain volatile and

politics will likely create plenty of

headlines. Change may begin to

feel like a constant. Nevertheless,

with a diversified portfolio and

regular reviews to ensure financial

plans continue to match their

objectives, investors can weather

the current storm.

About AAGAAG Wealth Management are a Mayfair based boutique wealth management company, focused on providing sound financial advice for their clients.

Find out more at www.AAG.co.uk.

Peter Gale, Senior Wealth Manager at AAG

Wealth Management

Referendum REACTION

THE BANK OF ENGLAND ANNOUNCED THEY ARE READY TO DO “WHATEVER IT TAKES” TO ENSURE ORDERLY MARKETS. OTHER CENTRAL BANKS WILL SUPPORT THE MARKETS AS IT IS IN THEIR INTERESTS TO DO SO

Wealth report

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

33

34

This month I have been chairing

design awards judging, a blissful

few days away from the studio

reviewing some of the years most

important creative projects. This

is always an activity I enjoy, these

projects are not my responsibility,

I am simply there to judge. This

does not mean the task is easy,

days are spent looking at hundreds

of entries in preparation before

dedicating three full days to

chairing the judging process.

The time is a pleasure to give, it’s

important to support the industry

that gave you the opportunities

you enjoy.

The real work is the

overwhelming aesthetic and

intellectual stimulation of

reviewing so much material in

such a short period of time. It’s

like being plugged into instagram

for a week solid, what was

beautiful, alarming, intriguing

and poignant passes in a blur as

my eyes and my brain become de-

senstitised with over stimulation.

This process is an exaggerated

version of what we are all

experiencing most days, a sensory

overload of images, messages

and memes. In the midst of this

stimulation it takes real discipline

to retain a clear view, to identify

quality and to take the time to stop

at a particularly excellent project

and appreciate it’s every detail.

During this process I

realised I was reflecting on the

nature of design and it’s role in

communication and consumption.

This speeding up has moved the

goal posts, it’s taken a step out

of the process - the step that is

missing is intellectual interaction.

In my book the best design needs

the audience to complete the

conversation it begins. The viewer

becomes a partner in the process,

finishing the sentence, filling in

the gaps and sharing the pleasure

in the ideas contained within the

concept.

This doesn’t need to be self

conscious, it shouldn’t be laboured

or exclude any observer without

the cultural reference points to

enjoy a concept on every level,

it should however wake up our

eyes and our minds and give

us something, the gift of a new

perspective, craft excellence or

breathtaking beauty.

With an overwhelming diet

of visual stimulation it’s harder

for designers to create content

which will be noticed and it’s

increasingly difficult for audiences

to see through the noise. The

louder we ‘shout’ creatively, the

less we are heard, the bigger,

brighter, faster race to cut through

will always be lost. The only thing

that really makes one stop and

think is real meaning conveyed

through emotionally resonant

communication. That idea which

is so clever you stop to play with

it in your mind, the concept

with layered meaning you enjoy

stripping back layer by layer. This

can be visual too, quietness in a

sea of noise delivers real power, a

whisper which makes you come

closer. Visual beauty so masterful

in it’s craft you are suspended for a

moment in awe.

The more content that is

created, the more we need to

focus on quality, in taking a

stand and making your moment

matter. Rather than feel the

anxiety and the need to speed up

communications with marketing

departments producing more and

more content with a diminishing

return in terms of audience

resonance. The bold need to slow

down, communicate less, design

better and let the audience join

them on their journey. Great

design can paint pictures with

words and create images that

make the heart sing, there is

nothing more powerful in the

arsenal of a luxury brand.

constructlondon.com

THE CHANGING FACE OF LUXURYGeorgia Fendley

Georgia Fendley is CEO of Hill and Friends, Founder of Construct and NED of Cambridge Satchel Company

Luxury Briefing Issue 188

Brand matters

Design of the times

35

What is your current favourite item of clothing? J Brand Kane jeans, the culmination of a lifetime search for the perfect pair. ... fragrance? Bergamote 22 by Le Labo, Grasse. Where have you received the best customer service?For me the epitome of customer experience is Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts. Having visited many of their properties over the years the service quality is always exceptional. What do you dislike?I know it sounds rather glib, but I detest people who drop litter - a simple act that shows so much disrespect for society and others. ‎ Is beauty or function more important?The best products have always achieved both. I like, too, how utilitarian design can often become iconic, with a simple beauty. What do you do to relax?‎ In the winter I ski as much as I can. In the Summer I like to sail dinghys in warm water. Where would your ideal holiday be?A family skiing holiday in Les Tois Vallées, the best best ski area in the world, where we are developing a boutique hotel in the village of Courchevel 1650.

Which luxury company has the best ads?The imagery in the latest Rolex print advertising is stunning and really captures the essence of the brand. Do you collect anything or would you like to?I can see myself having a barn filled with iconic cars from different eras.

What items are you currently dreaming of buying?As an occasional cigar smoker I admire Linley’s range of humidors and the traditional craftsmanship embodied by the brand.

What do you predict will be the biggest trends this year?Advances in technology have clearly brought tremendous benefits, but as a result of this I expect consumers to focus increasingly on heritage and personalised service.

Q& A

Jeremy Robson

Owner of The Great Northern Hotel

Issue 188 Luxury Briefing

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