tweek summer special 2033: the hair issue

TWEEK

SUMMER 2031

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Tweek Magazine Summer 2032 published for $300 a year (not including the annual issue). For subscription please send $300 to TweekMag, 1450 Madison Avenue, New York, NY, 10125. All submissions are welcome and will be considered carefully, and we are always looking for new writers and photographers. Have a very hairy day.

1450 Madison AvenueNew York, NY, 10125212.7.655.2345

STAFFMenkerios Andemicael

Publisher

Michaela Hotchkiss

Art Director

Beryl Safavi

Copy Editor

Rutger Kobayashi

Assistant Art Director

Jentz Fong

Advertising & Marketing Director

Staff Writers

Walther Schmidt

Hugo Argis

Kazu Palomino

Buster Blade

Shigeo Alaraby

Contributing Writers

Wolfgang Gage

Deepak Silverstein

Russel Jones

Elliot James

Sahe Kawamura

Miguel “Migs” Antunes

Photographers

Gigas

Maduro Schmidt

Engelhardt

THE HAIR ISSUE

Past and future are one strand of hair, the same

line viewed from different sides.

— Lao Tsu 9

HAVE A SEAT

10

2035 was a great year for this shaggiest of topics. New advancements in everything gossamer

are all around us. We can change the hair on our heads, grow expensive coats, or even have

our eyebrows permanently changed in a Japanese alley. But for all the newfangled changes,

something is oddly apparent: tech isn’t pushing us forward, opening new horizons, as much

as it is turning back the clock. You’ll notice that in these pages. Some of the changes, like the

triumphant return of frizzy, curly hair are positive. Others, like the return of fur farming, are

negative. Others, like the growing popularity of DIY genetic modification in Yokohama, are

both bold and frightening. But one thing’s for certain — change is everywhere. That’s why

we’re devoting this issue to what’s on top of your head.

Tweek magazine is proud to present this very special issue on everyone’s favorite shaggy

topic. Enjoy!

HAVE A SEAT

It was a very hairy year for technology...

Long, short, curly, straight, black, brown, blonde red. Hair was everywhere you didn’t want

it and nowhere you needed it. Until now.

11

BEAUTY

The most important use of today’s technology

isn’t just to satisfy primary needs or archetypal

wishes, but to repair all the evils and damages of

yesterday’s technology.

— Dennis Gabor

17

v

“Mommy, what’s wrong with her hair?”

“That’s how poor people’s hair looks, sugar.”

I couldn’t believe what I heard on the bus. A little girl, five or six, with her mother,

were studying a similar mother-daughter pair at the other end of the compartment. Both

sets had skin the color of rich mahogany, full lips... but only one of them had a telltale head

of those lovely tight, frizzy curls.

19

It’s a simple, fact: racism is still endemic

in our society. From the earliest days of

skin bleaches, hair irons, and lye relaxers,

there’s been a big temptation for African

American women (and men) to change their

looks to look more like the old European

American majority. This used to be almost

a requirement for employment at anything

better than menial labor. But even after

the historic Civil Rights Act of 1965 — and

after the black pride explosion of the 1970s

imploded under the twin forces of available

drugs and economic downturn — the old

specter of ingrained caucasoid beauty stan-

dards loomed once more. Some say it was

always there, just under the surface.

For better or for worse, the USAs European

majority has receded. So too have most

forms of racial discrimination in the work-

place. But the stigma remains. The historic

election and reelection of Barack Obama,

its first president of African descent, the

bold rise of Africa, and the new growth of

the black middle and upper classes seemed

like it would finally put to rest many of the

issues of black self esteem. But the lessons

of the past were so ingrained that beauty

standards remained fairly consistent: hair

straightening, skin and eye lightening, and

other race-changing behavior continued

unabated, simply updating with technology.

Worse than that, the problem deepened with

scientific advances: in the past, a woman

could relax her hair with a five dollar bottle

of lye product, lighten her eyes with thirty

dollar contacts, or select from a variety of

wigs and extensions starting with very low

cost entry points. 21

With the genmod revolution of the 20s, the

cost skyrocketed. Who would want a wig or

weave, long a source of mirth for black come-

dians, when you could have the real thing?

For the right price, hair could be genetically

conditioned to grow long and silky for ever

more. The price of a Mercedes and several

weeks of recombinant gene therapy could

give one sparkling blue eyes that would last

indefinitely. And for a small fortune, one’s

entire body could be lightened, providing

African American women with the illusion of

greater caucasoid admixture — white blood

that would have once been a paradoxical

sign of high class bearing and an indication

of a family history full of slaver ancestors.

As the 20s drew to a close, whiteness had

become more of an indication of status than

even the platinum, diamond and luxury car

craze of the early century. An emergent black

professional class practiced the exact same

intraracial discrimination they had once

been subjected to by hostile society. The old

black mantra “Ain’t a damn thing changed”

seemed truer than ever. Until last season.

The old mantra “Ain’t a damn

thing changed” was truer than

ever — until last season.

22

1619: First slaves brought

to Jamestown; African

grooming tradition, such

as locks, plaits and twists,

begins fade.

1785: Tignon Laws passed

in Louisiana, forcing women

of color to cover their hair.

1800s: Without African hair

treatments, slaves rely on

bacon grease, butter and

kerosene. Lighter-skinned,

straight-haired slaves are

worth more than darker,

more kinky-haired ones,

something internalized by

black culture.

1865: Slavery ends. Whites

look upon black women who

adopt white grooming as

well-adjusted. “Good” hair

becomes a prerequisite for

entering certain schools,

churches, social groups and

business networks.

1880: French metal hot

combs, used for ironing hair,

are readily available in the

United States.

UNTANGLING THE PAST

24

1920: Marcus Garvey, a

black nationalist, urges

followers to embrace their

natural hair and reclaim

an African aesthetic.

1962: Actress Cicely Tyson

wears cornrow braids on the

television drama “East Side/

West Side.”

1970: Angela Davis becomes

an icon of Black Power with

her large afro.

.

1968: Actress Diahann

Carroll is the very first

black woman to star in a

TV network series, “Julia.”

She is a darker version of

the all-American girl with

straightened, curled hair.

1900: Madame Clara J.

Walker, the first US female

self made millionaire,

develops new products for

black hair. She popularizes

the press-and-curl style.

Some will criticize her for

encouraging black women

to look white.25

1977: Jheri Curl explodes

on to the black hair scene.

Billed as a curly perm for

blacks, the slick hairstyle

lasts through the 1980s.

1979: Braids and beads

cross the color line when

Bo Derek appears with

cornrows in the movie “10.”

1980: Model-actress Grace

Jones sports her trademark

flat-top fade.

1990: “Sisters love the

weave,” Essence magazine

declares. A variety of new

natural styles and locks also

become more accepted.

2006: Baltimore Police

Department prohibits such

natural hairstyles as corn-

rows, dreadlocks and twists,

labeling them “extreme”

and “faddish.”

2001: Rapper Lil’ Kim wears

a platinum blonde weave.

UNTANGLING THE PAST

26

2009: Comic Chris Rock

unveils “Good Hair” at the

Sundance Film Festival,

exploring the way black

hairstyles impact the activi-

ties, pocketbooks, sexual

relationships, and self

esteem of black people.

2020: Genmod explosion

brings brand new ways to

straighten hair and lighten

skin and eyes, revitalizing

the practice.

2024: A handful of musi-

cians and artists start

wearing kinked hair as

a protest against racial

extinction.

2031: Fashion week. Kinky

hair crosses racial and

cultural lines and becomes

popular world wide.

27

black is blackand suddenly---

28

Permanently frizzy,

feathered hair has made

a massive impact on

white fashionistas.Stylist: Shalamar

so is white

THE FASHION WORLD GETS KINKYStarting last summer, the runways of world were

unquestionably blitzed with kinky hair. Frizzy,

fuzzy, bushy, big, tight, white, black, yellow, blue,

green. Not the usual avant garde “spice up” a

designer might throw into his collection, either:

In Los Angeles fashion week, every designer was

doing some version of the world’s oldest hair, on

at least one model. In Sao Paulo, which has gone

particularly crazy of late with indigenous fashion,

every model by every single designer had some

form of ringlets or bushy locks. Two designers,

Binyam Schmidt and Kazuo Van DerBeek, simulta-

neously assaulted the public with a parade of giant

afros and fierce looks. The audience gasped at the

similarity. A great idea who’s time has come, or

idea thievery? A heated back stage exchange was

reported between the two, so who knows. In the

end it worked out fine as both designers sent their

walkers out for the finale, making the event look

planned to a stunned audience.

Designer Miara Cruspin shows how kink is

crossing the racial barrier like never before.Sylist: Miara

Black hair salons are a far cry from the gregarious beauty

parlors of old. Still, the spirit is there.

33

FUTURE OF THE FUNKParis had some interesting supercurly innovations. Edwina Shultz had her runway bathed

in phosphorescent lights, causing her genmod models’s jellyfish-infused hair to glow

wildly. And as a statement that seemingly sums up the entire kinky movement, whiz-kid

Fink Gottlieb (unapologetically curly himself), finished off the show with supermodel Trude

Ahmed walking alone in a glittery number, her straight hair kinking up and curling into

a tight fro as she reached the end of the runway to thunderous applause. He must have

dropped serious cash into getting what was obviously a time-delay genmod to work so

flawlessly. Not to mention how much Trude must have been paid to take that risk to self

and career with cutting edge, untested gene therapy.

This season promises to be even more exciting. What’s most shocking is how quickly kink

has travelled from the fashion ivory tower to the streets of the world. It’s almost unantici-

pated, and raises question about it’s longevity.

Will we continue to think kink for the next few years? Tweek magazine is just all curled up

waiting to find out for ourselves.

science turnedback the clock

35

like never beforethe kink is back

36

like never beforethe kink is back

37

QUICK SNIPS

I like my new telephone, my computer works just

fine, my calculator is perfect, but good God, do I

miss my mind.

— Anonymous

43

SHARP TOOLS

$34,000

It blowdries, cuts, styles, mousses, and a whole lot

more. Cibco Tech Industries’ popular arm attachment

series for voluntary (and involuntary) amputees just

got a new addition. The new device allows hundreds

of preprogrammed hairstyles to be triggered at the

push of a button. The device pivots and is surprisingly

gentle. The best part is, it’s fully compatible with other

functions with the switch of a chip, allowing the arm

to shred paper, trim hedges, and knit. Just don’t mix

your settings up.

Style at your Fingertips

Cibco’s new styling attachment literally puts the salon an arm’s reach away.

44

SHARP TOOLS

45

$5,000

As anyone who’s experienced baldness can tell you,

permanent hair restoration takes a lot of care for the

first few months. So what do you do with your sweet

vacation time when you have to spend an hour a day

treating your pate under laboratory conditions?

Enter Turnbull’s Nomad. For the first time in history,

everything you need for transgenic hair treatment is

in one place. And it won’t break the bank (or the back,

it fits in a briefcase).

Hair in a Box

Turnbull Solutions transgenic follicle kit allows safe, portable hair regrowth treatment.

SHARP TOOLS

46

SHARP TOOLS

47

Wait, when was this movie made? Director

Ridley Scott must’ve had some sort of pro-

phetic dream, because this movie is amazing.

Sure, the plot is insanely wild and pushes

the envelope, but don’t all audiences love

that? It was scary accurate and set designer

Linda DeScenna needs some respect as does

art director David Snyder. This could have

been filmed today. It’s bleak, but you have

to keep in mind that this was made in 1982

when artistic license had just begun to rise.

Looking back has never been this forward.

Blade Runner (1982)

Director: Ridley Scott

Starring: Harrison Ford, Daryl Hannah

Idiocracy (2006)

Director: Mike Judge

Starring: Luke Wilson

Is it odd that this was released as a comedy

instead of a horror/documentary? It’s not

so funny when you deal with daily. Director

Mike Judge also wrote the story as well as

the screenplay, so it might have been his

call. It was released back in 2006 making it

one of the “newer” old movies that we’re

focusing on, but it’s eerily correct. Just go to

the DMV and see if IQs are lower now than

they were 30 years ago. It’s aggravating that

people saw it, laughed, and then went right

back to their lives instead or reevaluating

things a little. That could have saved us all

a great deal of time.

Past Present Perfect?

How well do four old genmod films hold up today?

VISUAL CLIPS

48

Director Andrew Niccol leads his cast through

one of the cleanest visions of the future I’ve

seen. Granted, the movie was made in a time

where they could barely clone a sheep, but

still. The aim in the film was, naturally, human

perfection, which underscores some of the

hubris in earlier times. Vincent (Ethan Hawke)

is so set on becoming an ideal human, that

he misses out on living. The art direction is

questionable; has anyone ever seen a house

like Irene’s (Uma Thurman) or had a job like

Jerome’s (Jude Law)? Thankfully things are

more interesting today than Niccol thought

possible in his wildest dreams.

What a ride! Enter a bleak future where a

bald criminal has to travel back in time to

save the world against his will. The science

is downright hokey, but fun for a 40 year old

film. It’s a nice touch that the tech of the

future looks like something out of the 1940s.

The message, that technology often puts us

back as it pushes us forward, is oddly pro-

phetic. Oddly enough, this received no Oscar

attention, but somehow this one escaped

notice. The pace is good, the cast is talented,

and it’s ideas “advanced.” Well done, Terry

Gilliam. If you haven’t seen it, you should.

Gattaca (1997)

Director: Andrew Niccol

Starring: Ethan Hawke, Uma Thurman, Jude Law

12 Monkeys (1995)

Director: Terry Gilliam

Starring: Bruce Willis, Brad Pitt

VISUAL CLIPS

49

Lovers

Dr. Meyer Livingston

Salmar Laboratories/Interscope

Imagine all of your ex girlfriends in a room

together. At least, their DNA. Dr. Livingston

breaks new ground by combining the genetic

matter of 12 of his old flames, and then plug-

ging in the resulting sequences into an audio

synthesizer. The result is actually a lot less

terrifying than you might think. This release

isn’t without its controversies, however. He’s

being sued for unauthorized use of personal

data and genetic identity theft by two of his

fair subjects. Some things never change.

Remember Dubai? Dr. Ibn Faruk does. In this

somber entry, the good doctor displays the

result of 25 long years in the hot Saudi desert

collecting samples of the nanobot devasta-

tion of 2020. First he takes several different

species and overlays their augmented protein

sequences over the original. It’s hauntingly

beautiful and sobering, but unfortunately,

most people will just hear a lot of bleeps and

atonal noodling.

Gray Matter

Dr. Salah Faruk

Vispar Inc.

But is it art?

Gene sequence tunes reignite the old debate over the role of the producer in popular music. Tweek reviews four entries.

AUDIO SNIPS

50

Oh, those mysterious Mayans; Their stock

hasn’t really lowered that much, considering

their 2012 endtime prophecies didn’t really

come true. Dr. Puchbar brings some fresh

perspectives to the table by basing his music

on blood samples found at Chichen Itza and

reconstructed. Unfortunately, the production

is hokey and precious, sounding a great deal

more dated in a bad way than it could have.

Agartech is brand new to the music business,

so this may be a warm up. In any case, skip it.

The firestorm you’ve all heard about. You

know there’s going to be trouble when one

of the oldest orchestras in the world lowers

itself to playing music written — or rather,

discovered and transcribed — by a scientist.

Or so the argument goes. Nasir Labs project

director Edmund Okolo has an interesting

perspective: if composers channel God, and

God is nature, isn’t music made from protein

sequences just as valid as Igor Stravinsky?

Definitely worth a listen, if only to give you

something to talk about at your next wine

and cheese party.

Mayan Mysteries

Dr. Fritz Puchbar

Agartech Paeleogenetics, Inc.

Human Protein Suite

London Symphony Orchestra

Nasir Labs/Capitol Records

AUDIO SNIPS

51

SOCIETY

Technology is a queer thing. It brings you great

gifts with one hand, and stabs you in the back

with the other.

— C.P. Snow

57

SUPERFUR

Is cruelty-free lab grown fur fuelling

a black market for the real thing?

Forty years ago, a woman wearing a fur on the

street could expect a question and one of three

reactions. “Is it real?” Followed by either an angry

stare, a long diatribe all about the cruelty of her

tastes, and at the extreme end — assault in the

form of a can of red paint or box cutter.

By the turn of the millennium, the only people still

wearing the real thing, at least in America, were

odd elderly pensioners, wearing gobs of makeup,

diamonds, and mink coats push a shopping cart to

the grocery store. Then fur started making a come-

back. Or rather, two distinct comebacks. Fake fur,

long stigmatized as shamefully cheap, exploded

onto the scene as a fun, informed, humane alter-

native, and often the only option in a developed

world that banned the fur trade in many nations.

On the other hand, in Eastern Europe and China,

the real thing was just everywhere, as citizens in

former socialist states made use of their suddenly

disposable incomes to bathe themselves in luxury.

First, lets make a distinction between what’s real

and what isn’t: The fake stuff, made from plastic

polymers, is a far cry from the gossamer fibers of

animal pelts, and has never been able to capture

thing. Even more importantly, it’s missing the

chaos of the original; every hair is too perfect and

even. It’s one of the mysteries of modern science:

over one hundred years of progress in synthetic

materials, and still, the public has yet to see some-

thing that can truly match the original.

59

UNVEILING THE NEWGenmod has brought many benefits to the world:

to medicine primarily, and to a lesser extent, art

and fashion. Medicine succeeded in cloning body

parts soon in the early part of the millennium, but

the concept of mass production was still a bit of a

holy grail. It began in earnest 10 years ago in Basel,

Switzerland when the first true sheets of living skin

were developed in a lab. The technology was there

for mass production, but the cost was prohibitive.

Thankfully, large subsidies and a very interested

medical industry helped to ease the pricetag down,

marginally, allowing burn victims and skin cancer

sufferers to receive unlimited skin grafting or even

full transplants, without the need to farm it from

elsewhere on their body.

While advances in genetic technology have helped

with the successful farming of living materials for

mass production, certain products are much harder

to recreate than others: There is a huge difference

between growing a single internal organ, which has

been possible for years, and growing a potentially

unlimited amount of connected organ tissue. With

a single internal structure, all the coding is already

in the chromosomes already: what shape, when to

start growing one type of tissue and when to stop

growing another, so the entire structure can work

as a whole. When one seeks to create living tissue,

a large amount of customization is needed, and the

chances for failure grow exponentially. Bone, indi-

vidual hair strands, and other regular matrices of

materials are pretty simple to create. In short, there

Radovac Johannsen’s loom grown winter line was one of the most

anticipated — and expensive — in history. Stylist: Seleutias

61

just aren’t a lot of moving parts to deal with. Living

polymeric organs like skin are a great deal more

difficult, as they require circulation, nourishment

and stabilized nutrient exchanges, but still doable.

When the goal is to create a complex system of live,

nourished materials, complete with glands and

other microsystems that have to be engineered to

produce still other complex materials, and produce

them to a certain standard of quality, the level

of difficulty — and expense — mushrooms. And of

all of these, real, super high grade mink, fox, or

chinchilla skin, capable of producing top quality fur,

is one of the most difficult, delicate, and costly of

all to make convincingly.

Technology hasn’t really solved the

animal cruelty debate. If anything,

it’s pushed us back a quarter century.

The Excelsior Coat, worth $8 Million dollars. Source: Valdemar Furs

63

FUR RETURNSThe cost has not stopped advances in the industry,

which have exploded overnight. The result has

been a reinvigorated fur industry, with the poten-

tial to produce massive sheets of fur, resulting in

clothing with minimal visible seams. Additionally,

because a lab can grow the material into unusual

shapes, there are some mind boggling new forms

of the material — all harvested directly off the loom

in the shape of flowers, birds, and textile weaves

such as houndstooth.

It seems like the best of both worlds for the fur

industry: not only can major companies bypass

strict laws that govern fur farms, but they can sell

their product as 100% cruelty free, bringing in

customers who wouldn’t ever go near the old stuff.

Additionally — and perhaps most remarkably —

their product commands far higher prices than ever

before in history. Even traditional cuts are eye-

poppingly expensive: a pristine J. Mendel 40 inch

golden sable coat might sell brand new for between

50 and 80 thousand dollars. Loom grown, such a

coat would easily reach above the quarter million

mark. The most expensive loom-grown fur coat sold

to date is the Excelsior coat, which is completely

seamless 50 inch chinchilla, of the absolute softest

quality. It fetched the hefty sum of 8 million dollars

at auction. That’s no rabbit’s foot.

The business model is sound as well; 80 percent

of the cost is setup: research, leasing genetic

formulas, acquiring state of the art labs and buying

expensive equipment. After that initial investment,

the actual production can be repeated with rela-

tive ease and inexpense. With setup fees easily

numbering in the billions of dollars, this keeps

the market extremely exclusive, giving the big four

companies — Sakowitz, Wladislaw, Engenir, and

Babourou — a 4 way monopoly on the industry.

64

Mink stalks the runway. But is it real? Stylist: Quasar Holmes

Looming chambers at Babourou, Ltd.

Fur looming is a closely guarded process. Stylist: Shalamar

66

Exotics: Illegal for

decades from natural

sources, rich furs like

Tiger and Leopard are

produced in stunningly

large quantities.

Mink: Costly as ever,

mink is still very big

money maker.

Raccoon: Very popular, this

pelt is on the lower end of

the spectrum and uses left

over biomass from more

expensive pelts.

2% Leopard

1% Chinchilla

10% Tiger

6% Gold

2% Blue

6% Silver2% Blue7% Hazel6% Arctic

25% Platinum

2% Steppe

1% Arctic

68

Fox: One of the mainstays of

the industry, fox can be very

pricey and comes a stunning

amount of choices..

6% Blue Fox

6% Arctic Fox

1% Cold Cross

1% Marble

5% Argent

1% Marble Fox

1% Shadow

1% Golden Fox

1% Golddust

FUR PRODUCTION GROWTH IN 2030

69

Cost Breakdown of Babourou, Ltd, a 15

Billion Dollar operation based in London,

England.

THE NEW PRICE OF FUR FARMING

70

30% Research25% Technology

5% Licensing

3% Patents

10% Real Estate

<1% Security

5% Biomass

15% Skilled Manpower

PROFITPROFITPROFITPROFIT

71

THE HIDDEN COSTThe whimsical economics surrounding the loom

grown fur trade is one of greatest ironies of history:

when else has a man-made replica of something

precious actually become more valuable than the

real thing? Unfortunately, the irony is tragic.

The fur market was rocked in Fall 2028, when 50

Animal Welfare Bureau agents sprung a surprise

sting on several very exclusive Madison Avenue

boutiques. Alleged to have come from Wladislaw

(owned by Dupont) and the now-defunct Svetlanka

Fur Company (a Russian government organ), the

fibers of 30 midrange coats were sent for testing.

Results were shocking: 10 percent of the tested

garments contained farm slaughtered fur, likely

from China. Stunningly, 2 of the coats actually

contained more live animal mass than loom grown.

Wladislaw claims the coats were convincing fakes,

and conducted independent testing on merchan-

dise from other locations which indeed suggested

that the incident was isolated. Svetlanka quietly

shut its doors, hinting at a bigger problem.

All this points to something extremely sinister: are

illegal fur farms getting a boost by the big potential

profits of loomed fur? And if major boutiques can

be fooled, how many other retailers are selling fur

that comes in part from living animals?

Western governments are unsure of how to deal

with this situation — anti-fur lobbies have shrunk

as legislation has improved, so there’s not many to

organize for such a passe cause. Furthermore, the

major loom companies, which should be willingly

pursuing counterfeiters, are strangely guarded,

fuelling rumors they are involved. Time will have to

be the final judge.

72

When else has a man-made replica of

something precious actually become

more valuable than the real thing?

73

CULTURE

Technological progress has merely provided us

with more efficient means for going backwards.

— Aldous Huxley 79

rsc\s m.a{y STREETMOLDING

YOKOHAMA

80

Better have a strong stomach. A trip to Yokohama will show any astute observer that

genmod is a way of life. But these days it’s gone to extremes, and is part of a whole new

culture of amateur self-surgery with serious overtones of the punk movement of the 1970s.

A rebellion against a strict society, youth put their lives at risk to get a unique look to put

them far apart from their parent’s generation. But is it safe?

Hair. And meat, and bone.

81

There's lots of places to hide in a city like Yoko.83

The back Alleys of Yokohama hide hundreds of illegal genmod shops.

Set up in minutes, they can be knocked down at the first sign of the law.

Bio waste at a Yokoma Streetmolding Site. Source: Associate Press

84

The entire city is becoming a network of secret communications

between suppliers, druggists, artists and surgeons, and authorities

don’t know where to start.

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It started with wild hairstyles in the 1990s in Tokyo,

and street culture as evolved with the times. As the

genmod craze hit a decade ago, people all over

went to extremes, willing to risk everything to get

a unique look. Japan’s physicians were unsure of

how to respond; was this behavior healthy? What

were its implications? It’s one thing to go under the

knife or serum to get a conventional tweak, some-

thing that will last for years. But increasingly, youth

were undergoing radical changes every other week.

With the medical establishment shutting them out,

and even when available, cost-prohibitive, they

soon found there was little they could do to reach

their goal of self expressive rebellion but to take

matters into their own hands. A craze was born, and

dozens of medical students left promising futures

to mod themselves and their friends.

Busted labs in Yokohama (l-r):

Chimo, Aruku, Konasu. Source: Police Records

86

Busted labs in Yokohama (l-r):

Chimo, Aruku, Konasu. Source: Police Records

87

NO RISK TOO GREATThe results can be breathtaking: hair that grows

twice as fast, allowing radically different hairstyles;

longer eyelashes and eyebrows that can be styled

appropriately. Even risky practices like eye color

changes, or skin texture, are possible in the most

unsanitary of conditions. But the procedures are

not without their risks.

The threat of the police is ever present since the

government crackdown of two years ago, and labs

might be busted up mid procedure. Cheap, bootleg

chemicals with varying levels of impurity can often

create unexpected and undesirable results, very

often permanent. Crooked genmodders might rob

or assault patients while they are unconscious,

or harvest organs for a quick profit. And in some

cases, results are deliberately a lot different from

what one would expect — one notorious modder

would promise one procedure and then do some-

thing entirely different. When caught, authorities

found thousands of pictures in his possession,

each of a different shocked female face — the look

of surprise on patients faces when emerging from

anaesthesia and seeing their faces for the very first

time. He is awaiting sentencing.

Streetmolding beauties risk it all for looks. Source: Associate Press

Even horror stories of psychopathic back-alley butchers haven’t dampened

the illegal genmod craze in Japan. It may even have added to the thrilling

sense of danger.

Many of the genmod surgeons in operation who

were willing to talk with us were quick and forceful

in denying that this is at all the norm, and clearly

stated unflinchingly that every subculture has its

villains and wolves. But nearly all the establish-

ment doctors we spoke to brought up the case of

one Haruki, a serial killer with no medical expertise

who took 12 lives before he was killed by an angry

mob of streetmolders.

At least the subculture polices itself.

Increasingly, it seems that even horror stories of

psychopathic back-back alley butchers haven’t

dampened the illegal genmod craze in japan. It

may even have added to the thrill. There is no

reasonable way to tell how many other thrill killer

criminals are operating in the underground. The

authorities are grim faced and tight lipped, and

always quick to point out that all streetmolders

are criminals before anything else.

91

“Streetmolding is a DIY rebellion against class, authority, conformity, and

bourgeois sentimentality. Basically, the punk of 50 years ago is back. With

a genetics degree.”

The origins of streetmolding are unexpected and

fascinating. It grew out of the punk rock revival

of the early 21st century, and most of the future

street surgeons knew each other and their clients

from bands and shows. A tight knit community,

streetmolders shifted from simple face painting

and make up inspired by the Harakuju movement

of the 90s, to more radical procedures after their

style was internationally coopted and lost its

ability to shock. Music, still a part of the scene,

took a back seat to one of the oddest choices of

lifestyle in history: surgery for surgery’s sake.

Even a brief foray into this world would have been

a getting-off point for the vast majority of posers

and exploitative designers, but it sure didn’t stop

there; the momentum kept building, the syringes

kept flowing as each molder tried to outdo his

peers. Needless to say, Japan was aghast.

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“Oni,” a streetmolder, on a rampage. Source: Davis Grayson

93

RISING STARS OF THE UNDERGROUNDMost streetmolders began life as med students. The

rest were artists with a few med classes under their

belts. Some say the very intense stress of Japanese

society led to twin elements of self destruction and

sadism, but many molders claim to be more influ-

enced by a need for artistic expression an a desire

to claim self identity in a more permanent sense.

Hair colors, contacts, and make up have a long, even

ancient tradition in Japanese society. But at the

end of the day, all these things can be removed or

washed off, leaving the true self. So at its heart, the

streetmolding movement was a desire to effect per-

manent change. “Koda,” a youth from the south side

who’s recently become a pop star, summed it up:

“We didn’t want to pretend to be someone different,

we wanted to be different. It was almost painful

waking up as the same old person in the morning.

Is there an element of self loathing to the practice?

Authorities both domestic and foreign agree there is,

at some level. Dr. Maurice Dumaurier insists low self

esteem is at the heart of the matter. “These people

want to change, of course, but they change because

they deeply loathe themselves.”

The molders, of course, call that attitude insulting

and foolish.

“They hate us. They hate that we use science for

beauty,” sniffs “Aka,” an aggressive and unblinking

young woman. They hate that we’re a remnant of

the past, a do it yourself tribe in a premanufactured

world that thinks everything has a pricetag.

One thing is for certain — streetmolders don’t seem

to stay with the scene very long. “Oni,” a west side

molder, describes herself as “an old cutter.” She

explains, “it’s a tough life. Some of us get normal

med jobs.. Some go to jail. Some vanish.”

94

KODA Born in Yokohama, Koda dropped out of

medical school 3 years in. He was one of

the leaders in supplemental limb attach-

ment, specializing in tails. After serving a

3 year sentence for unlicensed practice,

he’s become a pop sensation and a source

of great controversy.

Expelled from Tokyo medical college for

cadaver experimentation, “Aka,” which

means filth, opened up a mobile street

practice in Yokohama. She specializes

in facial surgery and is dodged a murder

charge after a patient she’s alleged to

have killed in an alley was found in a half-

way house. Her work has found its way

to fashion magazines and several neopunk

bands use her work as the core of their

image and core identity.

Allegedly a graduate of the Kyoto medical

school, “Oni” (ogre) left a lucrative prac-

tice for the streets. As part of a new wave

of dissatisfied professionals, Oni became

involved in the Yokohama underground

scene, playing bass in a band by night and

performing risky eye mods by day. His true

identity is unknown and he is currently

wanted by authorities.

AKA

ONI

Tnshu, spiritual leader of the movement.

Source: Davis Grayson

96

One of these missing is “Tnshu,” widely attributed

with starting the movement. Most members of the

subculture have his image somewhere in their lives,

whether on band flyers, clothing, or just a pocket

photograph. The famous image of him in a bike hat

with a stocking over his face, fresh after modding

his eyes, is haunting with its glazed and disaffected

look. One can’t help but be reminded of the iconic

Che Guevara photo that was widely marketed in the

early days of the millennium.

“Tnshu... well, he just was,” says Koda mysteri-

ously with a wave of his hand. No one is sure what

happened to the man, but rumors abound. Some

say he went back to school and is working for the

government. Others say he went under his own

knife while trying a new procedure and just didn’t

survive. Less glowing rumors include stories of him

being disfigured by a botched self surgery and now

living as a freak in the sewer system of Yokohama.

The official story, at least the one preferred by the

police, is that he was killed by dissatisfied clients.

“Good riddance,” says Dr. Kobayashi with a glare.

With no signs of the movement running out of

steam soon, one wonders if the truth is something

else entirely.

How long before this craze goes across Japanese

borders? It’s debatable whether that’s even pos-

sible. “Streetmolding is a Japanese phenomenon,”

states Dr. Kobayashi of Tokyo Medical University

emphatically. Perhaps, but with homogeneity and

stress turning back the clock on western youth, one

cannot rule out the possibility of it coming to an

alley near you.

“Streetmolders don’t last too long. It’s a tough life. Some of us get normal med

jobs. Some go to jail. Some vanish.”

97

LOOKGOOD

98

OR DIETRYING

99

BRUSHING UP

It’s funny how things work. We push and push for resolution to our existing

problems. Sometimes we solve them for the present, only to realize we were

wrong with the next wave of technological advancement and find ourselves

back at the beginning. Other times the very act of advancement puts us in an

unexpectedly negative place, which new technology attempts to solve and

pushes us farther back. Sometimes technology becomes the tool to wilfully

take us back to a better time, as a form of nostalgic rebellion — often with

negative consequences. Like strands of hair that move straight and then curl

back on themselves, human history is in a permanent feedback loop — moving

ahead while permanently moving backwards. It’s an odd paradox, but not

always a conundrum. And let’s face it, how boring would the world be if we

always went in a straight line?

104

STOCKISTSAnica Boutique

2418 Polk Street

San Francisco, Ca 94109

415.447.2878

Azalea

411 Hayes Street


415.861-9888

Creatures Of Comfort

7971 Melrose Ave

Los Angeles, Ca 90046

323.655.7855

Diavolina

156 Robertson Blvd


310.550.1341

H Lorenzo

8660 Sunset Blvd


310.659.1432

Neiman Marcus

150 Stockton Street


310.662.1395

Atrium

644 Broadway

New York, Ny 10012

212.473.9200

Altuna

1450 Lakeshore Drive


213.563.5175

Neiman Marcus

9700 Wilshire Blvd

Beverly Hills, Ca 90212

323.655.7855

New High (M)Art

741 New High Street


213.621.7822

Opening Ceremony

451 La Cienega Blvd


310.652.1120

Planet Blue Main

1653 12Th St

Santa Monica, Ca 90265

310.652.1120

Planet Blue Malibu

3835 Cross Creek #13A

Malibu, Ca 90265

310.317.9975

Mituka

8100 Melrose Ave


Ronherman.Com

Opening Ceremony

35 Howard Street

New York, Ny 10013

212.219.2688

Neiman Marcus

1450 Ala Moana Blvd

Honolulu, Hi 96814

634.543.3423

Ron Herman

3900 Cross Creek Road

Malibu, Ca 90265

453.657.9986

Chaser

11677 San Vicente Blvd

Brentwood, Ca 90049

333.624.8678

Scout

7920 West Third Street


323.658.8684

Sirens & Sailors

1104 Mohawk Ave


213.483.5423

106

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