tunisian ebook liesure arts beginning patterns

7/28/2019 Tunisian eBook Liesure Arts Beginning Patterns

1/54

by Kim Guzman

TUNISIAN

CROCHET

ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

Crochet

Clear Instructions

Photos of all Stitches

and Techniques 9 Beautiful Projects

INCLUDED:

Get the look of knitted fabricwith the ease of croche


2/54

LEISURE ARTS, INC.

Little Rock, Arkansas

TABLEOF CONTENTS

These fashions are elegant, with the fi ne texture and

appearance of knitwearbut theyre not knitted! They

made with Tunisian crochet. Award-winning teacher Ki

Guzman presents nine fresh designs for you to explore

Learn the skills you need to make a scarf and advance

through a hat, ruana, cowl, crib cover, duffel bag, and

more. Kim walks you through the basics and takes

you through each step with clear photos and friendly

instructions.

If you like the ease of working with a crochet hook,

but admire the look and feel of knitted fabric, youll love

learning Tunisian crochet.

What is Tunisian Crochet? .........3It Looks Just Like Knitting! .........3

The Tunisian Crochet Hook .......4

Getting Started ..........................6

Anatomy of Tunisian

Crochet Stitches ........................7

Learning the Stitches ................7

Additional Techniques .............11Stockinette Scarf ....................14

Stockinette Hat .......................16

Seed Stitch Ruana ..................18

Drop Stitch Cowl ....................21

Diagonal Hearts Crib Cover .....24

Felted Duffel ............................28

Cabled Mitts ...........................34Hoodie Vest ...........................38

Mitered Vest ...........................44

General Instructions ................49

Yarn Information .....................51

Hook Sources .........................51

TUNISIANCROCHET



3/54

2 www.leisurearts.com

KIMGUZMANfills each day withcreativity. Whether shes knitting or crocheting a new design or working

on a new canning experiment with the fruit and vegetables she grows

at her home in Arkansas, she fulfills a lifelong dreamendless creative

ventures in a lovely country setting with her family close at hand. Her

mother likes to call Kim the garden paparazzi when she rushes out to

take photos of flowers, fruit, vegetables, and beautiful butterflies.

The design work that helps Kim realize this dream has won several

awards, including eight Flamies from the Crochet Liberation Front.

One of these was the 2011 award for Best Teacher. Kim has authored

several pattern books, and her designs have appeared in yarn craft

magazines.

Kim says, My goal is to produce crocheted items which more

closely resemble knitted garments. Even my ribbed garments are

designed to specifically avoid bulkiness.

See more of Kims creations at KimaneDesigns.net and

CrochetKim.com. She maintains a blog called WIPs N Chains at

KimGuzman.wordpress.com and is an active member of Ravelry.com.

Photo by Scott C. Campbell


4/54

Would you like to learn a

technique thats quick and easy?

Are you a crocheter or knitter

whos looking to expand your

skills?

Tunisian crochet is easy to learn.

It's so simple, its a breeze to

memorize and master in no time.You can be on your way with a

project in as little as 30 minutes!

IT LOOKS JUST LIK

KNITTING!

The projects in this book were

intentionally made to mimic

the look of knitting. My focus

is to show an entirely new look

in crochet that will appeal to

crocheters and knitters, as weas those who have never knit o

crocheted.

You can finish a Tunisian croch

project that looks like knitting i

much less time than it would ta

you to knit it!

WHAT IS TUNISIAN

CROCHET?

You can think of Tunisian crochet

as crochet that looks like knitting.

With traditional crochet, each

stitch is made separately. It is

started and finished. In Tunisiancrochet, you start all the stitches

in a row in the first pass and

close all the stitches in the

second pass, also called a

return.

If you already know how to make

a single crochet, you already

know how to Tunisian crochet!

TUNISIANCROCHET



5/54


THE TUNISIAN

CROCHET HOOK

With Tunisian crochet, you are

working an entire row without

closing the stitches, the stitche

remain live on your hook. For

most projects, this requires aspecial crochet hook that is

longer than a traditional hook.

The most commonly used

hook in Tunisian crochet is a

14" (35.5 cm) aluminum hook.

It looks exactly like a knitting

needle, complete with the met

stopper on one end. However,

instead of a point at the otherend, it has a hook(Fig. 1).

For all the projects in this book

you use a 10" to 22" (25.5 cm

56 cm) hook.

In the past decade, though,

there have been great strides i

making new tools and product

accessible to Tunisian crochete

(Fig. 2).

Since the number of stitches h

to be considered in choosing a

hook, there are hooks available

with a nylon cord attached for

wider projects. A project width

can be about three times the

length of the hook, depending

the yarn used.

The Stockinette Scarf and

Cabled Mitts use a 10" (25.5 c

Tunisian hook because of the

small amount of stitches.

Projects with more stitches wil

require a longer Tunisian hook.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2Susan Bates

Boye

Easy Tunisian

Pony Circular

Boye CableBoye

MoEz


6/54

Short Tunisian crochet hooks

(10" to 12") (25.5cm to 30.5 cm)

can be used for small projects,

such as dishcloths, scarves, and

hats. If the projects are wider,

such as sweaters, duffel bags,

crib covers, and large afghans,you will need to use a longer

hook (14" to 22") (35.5 cm

to 56 cm). A Tunisian hook

with plastic cord is used for

such projects. Included in the

photo, page 4, are some of the

variations of hooks that can be

used for Tunisian crochet.

If you have a small project, atraditional crochet hook without

a thumb rest can be used. Simply

wrap a rubber band around

one end to hold the stitches on

the hook.

There are several manufacturers

making interchangeable hook

sets (Fig. 3). Hook heads of the

various sizes are included andvarious cable lengths can be

attached, depending on the width

of your project.

When you are looking at hooks,

you may also notice a double-

ended Tunisian hook(Fig. 4).

These can be used for regular

Tunisian crochet simply by adding

a rubber band to one end.

Fig. 4

Fig. 3


7/54


GETTING STARTEDYou will need some medium

weight yarn (it may have a #4 on

the label) and a 10" (25.5 cm)

Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) to

begin. We will take you throughthe Anatomy of Tunisian Crochet

Stitches. Then, the first stitch

you'll learn is the Tunisian Simple

Stitch, you will begin here and

continue through the first column

on page 8.

Like traditional crochet, you will

start with a chain.

To learn and practice the stitches,

chain 15.

You may find making a chain

with your Tunisian hook awkward

due to its length. Use the same

size standard hook to make

your chain, then change to the

Tunisian hook once the chain is

complete.

Remember to keep your chains

loose! If you tend to make your

chains tight, try going up one or

two hook sizes for the chain.

To maintain a nice edge, you

will be working into the back

horizontal barof your chain

(sometimes called back ridge).

If you turn the chain over, you will

see this horizontal bar (Fig. 5).

If you have trouble getting your

hook under the bar, try using

the thumb and forefinger of your

non-hook hand to grasp it and

pull it up a little so that your hook

can be inserted.

When working in Tunisian

crochet, you will always use an

overhand hold. Imagine yourse

holding a bicycle handlebar

(Fig. 6). Now youre ready to

begin your Foundation Row!

FOUNDATION ROW(FORWARD PASS)

Tunisian crochet projects will

begin with a Foundation Row.

Skip the first chain and insert

your hook into the horizontal

bar of the second chain fromhook, yarn over and pull the lo

through. You will now have two

loops on your hook(Fig. 7).

Continue to insert your hook in

each remaining horizontal bar

across and pulling up loops un

you have pulled up a loop in ea

chain (Fig. 8).

You will have the same numbe

of loops as your beginning cha

15 loops.

To ensure that you have pulled

up a loop in each chain, count

your loops. You should count

your loops for each row until

you become comfortable with

Tunisian crochet.

Fig. 5

Fig. 7

Fig. 6

Fig. 8


8/54

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

CLOSE (RETURN PASS)To begin to close the loops on

your hook, yarn over and pull

through one loop on hook. This

beginning step is a chain 1

(Fig. 9).

Yarn over and pull through

2 loops on hook. Repeat until you

have one loop remaining on the

hook(Fig. 10).

ANATOMY OFTUNISIAN CROCHET

STITCHESYou should now inspect yourwork thoroughly so you can

become familiar with its different

features.

Stretch the top and bottom of

the row apart so that you can

see the stitches more clearly. The

front vertical bar for each stitch

goes up into the chain and backdown the other side (Fig. 11).

Distinguishing between these

bars is important when working

different Tunisian stitches.

After completing your Foundation

Row, do not turn your work.

Unless the pattern indicates, you

do not turn in Tunisian crochet.

LEARNING THESTITCHESTUNISIAN SIMPLESTITCH (abbreviated tss)See Fig. 12 for a swatch with

right side of tss facing.

This stitch is often called afghan

stitch and is the most common

of all Tunisian crochet stitches.

Note: The contrasting color of

yarn is used in the following figs

so that you may see and identify

the stitches being made. It is not

necessary to change color at this

time.

Always skip the first vertical bar of

the row. It is holding the last loopon the hook from the previous

Closing. Although it is considered

a stitch, it is not worked and the

loop on the hook counts as the

first stitch (Fig. 13).

Fig. 1

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

vertical bars

firstvertical bar


9/54


TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH

(abbreviated tks)

See Fig. 17 for a swatch with

right side of tks facing. Fig. 18

the same swatch with the wro

side of tks facing.

An overall patterning of Tunisia

Knit Stitch will look just like han

knit stockinette stitch from the

right side. The tell-tale sign tha

it is Tunisian crochet is the ridg

on the wrong side. Like hand-

knit stockinette stitch, the edg

will tend to curl.

To begin a new swatch, chain



bar of the second chain from

hook, yarn over and pull the lo

through.

Continue to insert your hook in


across until you have pulled uploop in each chain: 15 loops.

Yarn over and pull through

one loop on hook, (yarn over a

pull through 2 loops on hook)

across: one loop.

Look closely at your stitches.

See the front vertical bar going

up and into the chain and then

back down in the back of your

work(Fig. 19, page 9). It is

important that you insert your

hookbetween the two bars of

each stitch.

Insert your hook from right to

left for right handed crocheters

(or left to right for left handed

crocheters) under the next front

vertical bar (Fig. 14). Yarn over

(by wrapping the yarn around the

hook from back to front) and pulla loop through.

Work across to the last stitch

(Fig. 15).

If you look closely at the last

stitch, you will see that its a little

different. Its not just one vertical

bar that goes up and down

the back, but three strands.Remember the chain 1 made

at the beginning of the Closing of

the Foundation Row on page 7?

This is that chain-1.

To work the last stitch, insert your

hook into the chain under both

bars as indicated by the arrow in

Fig 15. You should have two bars

on your hook(Fig. 16). Yarn overand pull the loop through the last

st: 15 loops.

To close your stitches, yarn

over and pull through one loop

on hook, (yarn over and pull

through 2 loops on hook) across:

one loop.

Practice tss for a few inches.

To finish off, cut yarn leaving

about an 8" (20.5 cm) end, pull

end through loop and tighten.

Fig. 14

Fig. 16

Fig. 15

Fig. 17

Fig. 18


10/54

I have always liked to call this

Going Under the Rainbow.

Ensure that you are making the

stitches underthe rainbow and

not between the rainbows.

Skip the first vertical bar, insertyour hook from the front of your

work to the back of your work

between the front and back

vertical bars of the next stitch

(Fig. 20). Yarn over and pull the

loop through.

Continue to pull up a loop in each

st across: 15 loops.

To close your stitches, yarn over

and pull through one loop on

hook, (yarn over and pull through

2 loops on hook) across: one

loop.

Practice tks for a few inches;

finish off.

TUNISIAN PURL AND

REVERSE STITCHES

The Tunisian Purl Stitch and the

Tunisian Reverse Stitch are used

frequently at the beginning of a

project to prevent the edges from

curling.

A piece worked in Tunisian Purl

Stitch is flat and resembles

hand-knit Reverse Stockinette

Stitch (Fig. 21). A piece worked

in Tunisian Reverse Stitch is

ridged, resembling hand-knit

Garter Stitch (Fig. 23, page 10).

Although they dont have the

same look, you can use either

stitch in a project where a

hand-knit purl look is desired.

TUNISIAN PURL STITCH

(abbreviated tps)See Fig. 21 for a swatch with

right side of tps facing.

To begin a new swatch, chain 15.




hook, yarn over and pull the loop

through.

Continue to insert your hook into


across until you have pulled up a

loop in each chain: 15 loops.

To close your stitches, yarn

over and pull through one loop


through 2 loops on hook) across:one loop.

Hold the yarn to the front of

your work. Skip first vertical bar,

insert your hook right to left for

right handed crocheters (or left to

right for left handed crocheters)

under the next vertical bar. Yarn

over and pull the loop through

(Fig. 22, page 10).

Fig. 2

Fig. 2Front

Back

Fig. 1Front

Back Chain

Rainbow


11/54


Essentially, what you have

created is a Tunisian Simple

Stitch, except you have forced

the yarn to wrap around the

front vertical bar, forming what

could be considered a hand-knit

purl bump.




and pull through one loop


through 2 loops on hook) across:

one loop.

Practice tps for a few inches;

finish off.

TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH

(abbreviated trs)

See Fig. 23 for a swatch with

right side of trs facing.

Tunisian Reverse Stitch (also

called reverse afghan stitch) isworked from right to left for right

handed crocheters (or left to

right for left handed crocheters)

under the backvertical bar, so

the chain falls toward the front or

right side of your work.





hook, yarn over and pull the loop

through.


each remaining horizontal bar acro

until you have pulled up a loop in

each chain: 15 loops.

To close your stitches, yarn over a

pull through one loop on hook, (yaover and pull through 2 loops on

hook) across: one loop.

With the yarn to the backof your

work, skip the first vertical bar.

Insert your hook from the back of

your work, from right to left for righ

handed crocheters (or left to right

for left handed crocheters) under t

next backvertical bar, yarn over apull a loop through (Fig. 24).


across: 15 loops.

To close your stitches, yarn over a

pull through one loop on hook, (ya

over and pull through 2 loops on

hook) across: one loop.

Practice trs for a few inches;finish off.

TUNISIAN EXTENDED

STITCH (abbreviated tes)

See Fig. 25 for a swatch with righ

side of tes facing.


Skip the first chain and insert your

hook into the horizontal bar of the

second chain from hook, yarn ove

and pull the loop through.

Fig. 22

Fig. 24

Fig. 23

Fig. 25


12/54



across until you have pulled up a

loop in each chain: 15 loops.


and pull through one loop on hook,(yarn over and pull through 2 loops

on hook) across: one loop.

Skip the first vertical bar, insert your

hook from the front of your work

to the backof your workbetween

the front and back vertical bars of

the next stitch.

Yarn over and pull the loopthrough. Then, chain 1 (or yarn

over and pull through the loop on

your hook) (Fig. 26).




and pull through one loop on hook,

(yarn over and pull through 2 loopson hook) across: one loop.

Practice tes for a few inches; now

we'll learn how to bind off.

BINDING OFF

Insert your hook from right to left

for right handed crocheters (or left

to right for left handed crocheters)

under the second vertical bar

from hook. Yarn over and pull the

loop through both loops on hook

(Fig. 27).

Work across until one loop remains

on hook; finish off.

ADDITIONAL

TECHNIQUESDECREASING IN TUNISIAN

CROCHET

There are several methods of

decreasing in Tunisian crochet.

We will instruct you on thetwo most popular decreases:

the knit 2 together and the

reverse knit 2 together.

KNIT 2 TOGETHER

(abbreviated k2tog)

Insert your hook from the front of

your work to the backof your work

between the front and back vertical

bars of the next 2 stitches (Fig. 28).Yarn over and pull the loop through

to decrease one stitch.

REVERSE KNIT 2

TOGETHER

(abbreviated revk2tog)

Skip one stitch, using your hook,

pull the front vertical bar of next

stitch until it is on top of the skipped

stitch (Fig. 29), then insert yourhook from the front of your work to

the back of your work between the

front and back vertical bars of both

the stitches, yarn over and pull a

loop through. This decreases one

stitch.

Gently stretching the stitches and

holding the skipped stitch flat with

your non-hook hand may help in

making your decrease. Then pull the

next stitch over the skipped stitch.

Fig. 27

Fig. 28

Fig. 29

Fig. 26


13/54


Fig. 30

Fig. 31

INCREASING IN

TUNISIAN CROCHET

YARN OVER

(abbreviated YO)

A yarn over is simply that, made

by either placing the hook under

the yarn or by wrapping the yarnfrom front to backover the hook.

It creates a hole or eyelet,

(Fig. 30) and increases the

number of stitches by one stitch.

MAKE ONE (abbreviated M1)

A Make One is executed by

inserting your hook from front

to back under the yarn over

created in the prior row (Fig. 31)and increases the number of

stitches by one stitch.

ADDING NEW BALL OF

YARN OR CHANGING

COLORS

It is best to add a new ball of

yarn at the end or beginning of

a row. By adding at the end of

a row, the yarn will end up at aseam and will not be visible on

the finished piece.

If you wish to change colors at

the beginning of a row, close your

stitches until 2 loops remain on

your hook. Drop the old yarn and

with the new yarn (Fig. 32), yarn

over and draw through 2 loops

on hook. Be sure to leave at least

a 6" (15 cm) end to weave in later.

If you wish to change colors at

the end of a row, once you hav

completed all your stitches but

before closing, drop the old ya

yarn over and pull through one

loop on hook(Fig. 33), (yarn o

and pull through 2 loops on hoacross: one loop. Again, leave

least a 6" (15 cm) strand of yar

to weave in later.

2-COLOR AND 3-COLO

TECHNIQUES

Color changes can be used

to add interest to simple stitch

patterns.

If a striped effect is desired,

change colors at the beginning

each row. Carry the unused co

along the side edge. The swat

in Fig. 34 is worked in Tunisian

Knit Stitch.

An interesting alternative to

changing color at the beginnin

of a row is to change colorsbefore closing each row. Alway

begin closing your stitches wit

a different color. The swatch

in Fig. 35, page 13 is worked

in a seed stitch pattern with

Tunisian Knit Stitch and Tunisia

Reverse Stitch.

With the 3-Color Technique, yo

change to a new color at the

beginning and before closing

each row. The swatch in Fig. 3

page 13 is also worked in a

Seed Stitch pattern as in Fig. 3

page 13, but with 3 colors

instead of 2 colors.

Fig. 32

Fig. 34

Fig. 33


14/54

FINISHINGSEAMING

When seaming along the ends of

the rows, use your yarn needle

to go under the 2 bars of the

Tunisian Knit Stitches on each

side (Fig. 37). Try not to pullyour seaming stitches too tightly

as this will cause the fabric to

buckle. You want your rows to

sit together next to each other

as though they are within the row.

When seaming across the

last row, in the same manner,

use your needle to go under

the 2 bars of the Tunisian KnitStitches (Figs. 38a & b). This will

cause the chain to be pushed to

the wrong side of your work.

TIPS

A LOOPY FIRST STITCH OF

THE ROW

To avoid a loose first stitch, insert

your hook to make the stitch and

pull the yarn taut before yarningover, then continue with your

stitch.

COUNTING THE ROWS

It is easiest to count your rows

along the side edge at the

beginning of each row (Fig. 40).

GAUGE

Gauge is the number of stitches

and rows in every inch of your

crocheting and is used to control

the finished size. Most patterns

specify the gauge, or tension,

that the designer usedand that

you must match to get the proper

size.

Because everyone crochets

differentlyloosely, tightly, or

somewhere in betweenthe

finished size can vary when the

crocheters use the very same

pattern, yarn, and hook.

Before starting a project, it'sabsolutely necessary for you to

crochet a swatch in the pattern

stitch with the yarn and hook

suggested. Since you will want

to measure a flat area of the

swatch, you will need to chain a

few more stitches than the actual

gauge and also work a few more

rows.

EXAMPLE

A pattern calls for a medium

weight yarn and size K Tunisian

hook (6.5 cm) to achieve a gauge

of 12 tks and 13 rows = 4"

(10 cm).

Chain 16.

Work in tks for 17 rows, then

cut yarn. Lay your swatch ona hard, smooth, flat surface.

Measure to see if you have 12 tks

and 13 rows in a 4" (10 cm )

square. If your swatch is smaller

than 4" (10 cm) square, you are

crocheting too tightlytry again

with a larger size hook. If it is

larger than 4" (10 cm), you are

crocheting too looselytry again

with a smaller size hook.

Tip: Keep track of the hook size

and yarn weight for your pattern

in case your hook becomes

AWOL from that project.

Fig. 40

Fig. 37

Fig. 38

Fig. 38

Fig. 35

Fig. 36


15/54


Finished Size: 6" wide x 60" long

(15 cm x 152.5 cm)

(excluding Tassels)

MATERIALS

Medium Weight Yarn

[3 ounces, 185 yards

(85 grams, 170 meters) per skein]:4 skeins

Minimum length of 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook,

size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge

Yarn needle

GAUGE: 12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm)

Please refer to gauge on page 50.

STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8.

Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to curl; once the Scarf is seamed, the

fabric will relax.

SCARFLeaving a long end for sewing, ch 36.

Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of

second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:

36 sts.

stockinette

SCARFThe Scarf is

worked from

one end to

the other end.

Then the end

of the rows are

seamed, each

end is gathered

and a tassel is

added.


16/54

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, work tks across, close.

Repeat Row 1 until Scarf measures approximately 60"

(152.5 cm) from beginning ch.

Bind Off Row: Skip first vertical bar, inserting hook as

for tks work slip st across, finish off leaving a long end

for sewing.

With wrong side together, fold Scarf in half lengthwise

and seam end of rows (Fig. 37, page 13).

Thread yarn needle with long beginning end. Weave

needle through chs, gather tightly and secure end.

Thread yarn needle with long end at end of last row.

Weave needle through sts, gather tightly and secureend.

TASSEL(Make 2)Cut a piece of cardboard 3" (7.5 cm) wide and as long

as you want your finished tassel to be. Wind a double

strand of yarn around the cardboard approximately

48 times. Cut an 18" (45.5 cm) length of yarn and

insert it under all of the strands at the top of the

cardboard; pull up tightly and tie securely. Leave theyarn ends long enough to attach the tassel. Cut the

yarn at the opposite end of the cardboard and then

remove it (Fig. A). Cut a 6" (15 cm) length of yarn and

wrap it tightly around the tassel twice, 1" (2.5 cm)

below the top (Fig. B); tie securely. Trim the ends.

Attach one Tassel to each end of Scarf.

Fig. A Fig. B


17/54


Finished Head Circumference: 20" (52 cm) at band

(unstretched)

MATERIALS

Medium Weight Yarn

[3 ounces, 185 yards(85 grams, 170 meters) per skein]:

2 skeins


size J (6 mm) orsize needed for gauge

Standard crochet hook, size F (3.75 mm) or

size needed for gauge

Yarn needle

GAUGES

In slip st pattern, with standard crochet hook,

7 slip sts = 1" (2.5 cm); 35 rows = 4" (10 cm)

In tks pattern, with Tunisian hook,

15 tks and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm)



KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.

stockinette

HATThe Hat is made

flat, starting with

the Band which is

worked vertically.

Stitches are then

picked up along

the end of the

rows, worked

toward top

center of Hat and

seamed together.


18/54

BANDWith standard crochet hook,

ch 8.

Row 1: Slip st in horizontal bar

of second ch from hook(Fig 42,

page 50) and each ch across

(Fig 5, page 6): 7 slip sts.

If the last st of a slip st row is too

loose, work the last st in both loops

instead of only the back loop.

Rows 2-180: Turn; slip st in Back

Loop Only of each st across

(Fig. 40, page 50); do not

finish off.

BODYRow 1 (Right side): With Tunisian

hook and working in end of rows,

pick up 89 sts evenly spaced

across, close: 90 tss.

If you are having trouble inserting

the Tunisian hook into the end of

the rows, use the standard crochethook to pull up the yarn and place

it onto the Tunisian hook.

Rows 2-20: Skip first vertical bar,

work tks across, close.

Row 21: Skip first vertical bar,

k2tog, (work 7 tks, k2tog) 9 times,

work 6 tks, close: 80 sts.








k2tog, (work 4 tks, k2tog) 9

times, work 3 tks, close: 50 sts.



times, work 2 tks, close: 40 sts.



times, work tks, close: 30 sts.


k2tog, (work tks, k2tog) 9 times,

close: 20 sts.


work tks, (k2tog, work tks) 6 tim

close: 14 sts.


k2tog 7 times, close: 7 sts.

Bind Off Row: Inserting hook a

for tks, slip st across; finish off

leaving a long end for sewing.

Thread yarn needle with long en

Weave needle through sts on Bi

Off Row, gather tightly and secu

end; with same yarn, weave sea

(Fig. 37, page 13).


19/54


Finished Size: One size fits most

MATERIALS

Bulky Weight Yarn

[3.5 ounces, 187 yards

(100 grams, 172 meters) per skein]:

Variegated - 8 skeinsMedium Weight Yarn



Green - 3 skeins



GAUGE: With Variegated andin Seed Stitch

(tks, trs), 11 sts and 12 rows = 4" (10 cm)Please refer to gauge on page 50.


TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH,page 10.

seed stitch

RUANAThe Ruana is made

in one piece from

Back bottom edge

to Front bottom

edges. Stitches are

picked up across

end of the rows for

the Trims.


20/54

The Ruana is constructed ofseed stitch because of the

fabrics unique back which is

equally as beautiful as the front

(Figs. A & B).

Fig. A

Fig. B


21/54


BACKWith Variegated, ch 98.

Foundation Row (Right side):

Pull up a loop in horizontal

bar of second ch from hook

and each ch across (Fig. 5,

page 6), close: 98 sts.


work tks, (work trs, work tks)

across, close.


work trs, (work tks, work trs)

across to last 2 sts, work 2 tks,

close.

Rows 3-79: Repeat Rows 1

and 2, 38 times; then repeat

Row 1 once more; do not

finish off.

FIRST FRONTRow 1: Skip first vertical bar,

work trs, (work tks, work trs)16 times, work 2 tks, leave

remaining 62 sts unworked,

close: 36 sts.



across, close.


work trs, (work tks, work trs)

across to last 2 sts, work 2 tks,

close.

Rows 4-82: Repeat Rows 2 and

3, 39 times; then repeat Row 2

once more.

Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as

for tks, slip st across; finish off.

SECOND FRONTRow 1: Skip next 26 sts on Row 7

from Back and join Variegated wit

slip st in vertical bar (counts as fir

tks), work trs, (work tks, work trs)

16 times, work 2 tks, close: 36 sts

Complete same as First Front.

TRIMSTrim may curl slightly and require a

small amount of wet blocking.

SIDE EDGE

Row 1: With right side facing,

using Green, and working in end orows, pick up a loop in end of eac

row across one outer edge, close

162 sts.


work tks, (work 2 trs, work 2 tks)

across, close.


tks, slip st across; finish off.

Repeat across opposite outer edg

INNER EDGE


using Green, and working in end o

rows, pick up a loop in end of eac

row across First Front, work 26 tk

across unworked sts on Row 79 o

Back, pull up a loop in end of each

row of across Second Front, close

190 sts.


work tks, (work 2 trs, work 2 tks)

across, close.


trs, slip st across; finish off.

351/2"

391/2"

FRONT FRONT

17" 13"

271/2"

261/2"

54"

BACK


22/54

Finished Size: 52" circumference x 16" tall

(132 cm x 40.5 cm)

MATERIALSLight Weight Yarn


(100 grams, 334 meters) per hank]:

2 hanks

For best results, use a 100% natural fiber.

Minimum length of 22" (56 cm) Tunisian hook,


Clean towel

Yarn needle

Gauge: In pattern,

12 sts = 4" (10 cm);

9 rows = 3" (9 cm)


STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,page 8.

YARN OVER,page 12.

drop stitch

COWLThe Cowl isworked from the

bottom edge to

the top edge.


23/54


COWLCh 156.

Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop

in horizontal bar of second ch from hook

and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:

156 sts.

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, work tks acros

close.

Row 2

Step A: (YO, work tks) across: 311 loops.

Step B: Close as follows: ch 2, # carefully

remove last loop from hook with non-stitchin

hand, slip YO off hook, place loop back onto

hook, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook

repeat from # across until one loop remains hook: 156 sts.


to ch 2, work tks in top of ch-2, close.


close.

Tug gently on the piece to even out the

elongated stitches.

Rows 5-39: Repeat Rows 2-4, 11 times; the

Rows 2 and 3 once more.

Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for tks, sc

across, finish off.

FINISHINGCompletely immerse in cool water, squeeze

gently, then roll in a clean towel to remove

excess water. Lay Cowl on flat surface,

being careful to smooth out and allow to dry

completely, or block as desired.

With wrong sides together and matching row

sew end of rows together to form a ring.


24/54


25/54


Finished Size: 39" x 42" (99 cm x 106.5 cm)

MATERIALS

Light Weight Yarn


(141 grams, 420 meters) per skein]:4 skeins



Standard crochet hook, size G (4 mm)

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook, 15 sts and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm)



TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH page 10.

The first row of the chart is the foundation row, and the first column of the

chart is the first loop on the hook. The white squares are worked as Tunisian

Knit Stitch and the shaded squares are worked as Tunisian Reverse Stitch. The

chart is worked from right to left for all rows for right handed crocheters and

left to right for left handed crocheters.

diagonal hearts

CRIB COVERThe Crib Cover

is worked by

following the

chart on pages

26 and 27.


26/54


27/54


BODYWith Tunisian hook, ch 143.

Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a

loop in horizontal bar of second ch from

hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6),

close: 143 sts.

Rows 1-5: Skip first vertical bar, work trs

across, close.

Rows 6-163: Follow Chart; do not

finish off.

TRIMRnd 1: With standard crochet hook, ch 1;

working as for trs across Row 164, 3 scin first st, sc in each st across to last st,

3 sc in last st; sc evenly across end of

rows; working in free loops of beginning

ch (Fig. 41, page 50), 3 sc in first ch, sc

in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in ch; sc

evenly across end of rows; join with slip st

to Back Loop Only of first sc (Fig. 40,

page 50).

See Basic Crochet Stitches, page 50.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in Back Loops Only,

sc in each sc around working 3 sc in center

sc of each corner 3-sc group; join with

slip st to both loops of first sc, finish off.

KEY -

trs

-tks

160

150

140

130

120

1 1 0


28/54

100

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

1


29/54


Finished Size: 15" long x 9" high (38 cm x 23 cm)

(after felting, not including handles)

Measurements are approximate as felting

results will differ depending on the amount

of desired felting, the type of yarn used, and

even the colors used.

MATERIALS

100% non-superwash

Wool Medium Weight Yarn


(100 grams, 201 meters) per hank]:

Taupe - 3 hanks

Green - 2 hanks


size L (8 mm) orsize needed for gauge

Standard crochet hook, size G (4 mm) orsizeneeded for gauge

" (19 mm) Round shank buttons - 2

Sewing needle and matching thread

Yarn needle

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook,

12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm)

(before felting)


felted

DUFFELThe Body of the

Duffel is worked from

the bottom center

horizontally toward

the top on the First

Side. Stitches are

then picked up on

the opposite side of

the beginning ch and

worked toward the topfor the Second Side.


30/54


31/54


STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN SIMPLE STITCH,

page 7.

TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,

page 8.

KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.REVERSE KNIT 2

TOGETHER, page 11.

Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to

curl; but the Duffels construction

and felting will relax the fabric.

END(Make 2)With Tunisian hook, using Taupe,and leaving a long end for

sewing, ch 15.


Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of

second ch from hook and each

ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:

15 sts.


work tks across to last st, leave

last st unworked, close: 3 tks.


work 2 tks, work tks in each

skipped st at end of each row

across, close (wedge completed):

15 tks.

Rows 14-116: Repeat

Rows 1-13, 7 times; then repeat

Rows 1-12 once more (a total of

9 wedges completed): 3 tks.

Row 117: Skip first vertical bar,working as for tks across, slip st

in each skipped st at end of each

row across; finish off.

BODYFIRST SIDEWith Tunisian hook and using

Green, ch 51.



second ch from hook and each

ch across, close changing to

Taupe in last st (see Changing

Colors, page 12): 51 sts.

When pattern indicates to slip

next st onto hook, insert hook

as for Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss),hold the stitch there on the hook

and move on to the next stitch.

The stitch is not actually worked;

it is simply placed on the hook.


work 2 tks, # slip next st onto

hook, work 3 tks; repeat from #

across, close changing to Green

in last st.


work tks across, close changin

to Taupe in last st.

Row 3: Skip first vertical bar, s

next st onto hook, # work 3 tkslip next st onto hook; repeat

from # across to last st, work

tks in last st, close changing to

Green in last st.


work tks across, close changin

to Taupe in last st.

Rows 5-58: Repeat Rows 1-413 times; then repeat Rows 1

and 2 once more, do not chan

colors at end of Row 58.

Finish off.

SECOND SIDEFoundation Row: With right

side of Body facing and workin

in free loops of beginning ch(Fig. 41, page 50), with Tunisi

hook and using Green, pull up

a loop in each ch across, close

changing to Taupe in last st:

51 sts.

Complete same as First Side:

51 tks.


32/54

HANDLE(Make 2)With Tunisian hook and using

Taupe, ch 70.


Pull up a loop in horizontal bar ofsecond ch from hook and each

ch across, close: 70 sts.



Joining Row: Skip first vertical

bar, working in tks on Row 4 and

in free loops of beginning ch,

slip st in each st across; finish off.

ASSEMBLYThe joining is worked on the

right side of the work to form a

decorative edge.

REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET

(abbreviated reverse sc)

Working from left to right,# insert hook in st to right of hook

(Fig. A), YO and draw through,

under and to left of loop on hook

(2 loops on hook) (Fig. B), YO

and draw through both loops on

hook(Fig. C)(reverse sc made,

Fig. D); repeat from # around.

Trim: With wrong sides together,

hold one End and Body together

with End towards you. Using

standard crochet hook, working

through both thicknesses,

and matching rows, join Greenwith slip st in first row; ch 1,

work reverse sc evenly around

(Figs. A-D); join with slip st to

first st, finish off.

Repeat for remaining End.

Thread yarn needle with long

beginning end of End, weave

needle through sts, gather tightlyand secure end. With same yarn

and wrong sides together, sew

Row 117 to beginning ch; secure

end.

Thread yarn needle with 12"

(30.5 cm) strand of Green. Sew

First Side and Second Side

together through first 11 sts on

top edge of Body. Repeat withlast 11 sts.

Insert Handles between the

stitches approximately 5 rows

down and 5 stitches from each

edge on Body. Tie a knot in each

end of Handle on inside of bag.

Stitch each Handle in place to

keep it from slipping out of the

stitch during the felting process.

Fig. A

Fig.

Fig.

Fig.


33/54


34/54

FLAPRow 1: With Tunisian hook, using

Green, and working in unused tks

at opening, pull up a loop in each

tks, close: 29 tks.




k2tog, work tks across to last

3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last

st, close: 21 tks.

Row 10:

Step A: Skip first vertical bar,work 2 tks, working as for tks,

slip st in next 3 tks (buttonhole),

work tks across to last 4 sts,

working as for tks, slip st in next

3 tks (buttonhole), work tks in

last st.

Step B: Ch 1, YO and pull

through 2 loops on hook, ch 1,

(YO and pull through 2 loops on

hook) 11 times, ch 1, YO andpull through last 3 loops on hook;

finish off.

HAND FELTING

To felt your project, youll need a

sink full of hot water and a small

bit of liquid dishwashing soap.

The water doesnt need to be

boiling. Usually, hot water rightout of the tap will be sufficient.

Completely immerse your project

in the hot water. You will see the

stitches become very loose. Pay

attention to the handles of your

bag because they can come out

of the stitch they are inserted

through until your project is

completely felted.

Now, youll need agitation. You

can use your hands or an object

such as a wooden or plastic

spoon. If using a wooden spoon,

make sure the edges are all

smooth. You can use rubber

gloves if the water is too hot for

you to handle. Move your project

around in the water, pulling itup, plunging it down. Swish it

around. Pretend you are hand

washing an item of clothing.

If you become tired, simply lea

the project in the hot water.

Once the water has cooled,

empty and refill it. You should

start feeling a difference in thefabric. By the third or fourth refi

your project will be completely

felted. Rinse your project and r

in a clean towel to remove exc

water before shaping to dry.

FINISHINGShape bag as desired. Fill with

plastic bags to help Bag keep

shape. Allow to dry completelyAttach buttons adjacent to

buttonholes.


35/54


Finished Size: 10" (25.5 cm) circumference at

widest point x 5" (14 cm) height

MATERIALS

Medium Weight Yarn


(85 grams, 121 meters) per skein]:Red - 1 skein

OR



Green - 1 skein



Standard crochet hook, size K (6.5 mm) orsize

needed for gauge

Cable needles - 2Yarn needle

GAUGE: With standard crochet hook,

4 slip sts = 1" (2.5 cm);

20 rows = 4" (10 cm)

with Tunisian hook,

13 tks and 14 rows = 4" (10 cm)


cabled

MITTSThe Mitts are made

flat, starting with the

wrist which is worked

vertically. Stitches are

then picked up along

the end of rows and

worked toward the

fingers; then the end

of rows are seamed.


36/54


37/54


STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,

page 8.

KNIT 2 TOGETHER,page 11.CABLE

When working a Cable Crossing,

the stitches are being removed

from the hook, re-positioned,

then placed back on the hook to

work.

Use care when working a

row after a Cable Crossing.

If necessary, pull up on theprevious row of stitches to

separate them and ensure that

no stitches are missed.

FIRST MITTWRISTWith standard crochet hook,

ch 5.

Row 1: Slip st in horizontal bar

of second ch from hook(Fig 42,

page 50) and each ch across

(Fig. 5, page 6): 4 slip sts.

Rows 2-33: Ch 1, turn; slip st

in Back Loop Only of each st

across (Fig. 40, page 50); do

not finish off.

HANDRow 1 (Right side): With Tunis

hook and working in end of row

skip first row, pull up a loop innext row and in each row acro

close: 33 tss.

If you have trouble inserting the

Tunisian hook into the end of t

rows, use a smaller size standa

crochet hook to pull up the yar

and place it onto the Tunisian

hook.

Rows 2 and 3: Skip first vertic

bar, work tks across, close.


work 17 tks, [slip last 3 tks

made onto first cable needle

and hold at backof work, slip

next 3 tks made onto second

cable needle and hold at front

of work(Fig. A), slip sts fromfirst cable needle at back onto

hook(Fig. B); then slip sts from

second cable needle at front o

hook(Cable Crossing made)]


Rows 5-8: Skip first vertical ba


Fig. A

Fig. B


38/54

Row 9 (Thumb opening): Skip

first vertical bar, inserting hook as

for k2tog work slip st, [inserting

hook as for tks work slip st,inserting hook as for k2tog work

slip st] twice (thumb opening)

(one loop on hook), work 9 tks,

work Cable Crossing using

previous 6 tks, work tks across,

close: 25 tks.

Rows 10-13: Skip first vertical



work 9 tks, work Cable Crossing

using previous 6 tks, work tks

across, close.



Bind Off Row: Skip first vertical

bar, [inserting hook as for k2togwork slip st, inserting hook as for

tks work slip st] across; finish off


Thread yarn needle with long

end and seam Mitt leaving

thumb opening unsewn (Fig. 37,

page 13).

SECOND MITTWork Wrist and Hand same as

First Mitt through Row 3 of Hand:

33 tks.

Row 4: Skip first vertical

bar, work 20 tks, work Cable

Crossing using previous 6 tks,




Row 9 (Thumb opening): Skipfirst vertical bar, work 20 tks,

work Cable Crossing using

previous 6 tks, work 5 tks,

inserting hook as for tks work

slip st, [inserting hook as for

k2tog work slip st, inserting hook

as for tks work slip st] twice

(thumb opening); finish off; with

new yarn, close: 25 tks.



Row 14: Skip first vertical

bar, work 20 tks, work Cable

Crossing using previous 6 tks,


Rows 15-17: Skip first vertica


Bind Off Row: Skip first vertic

bar, [inserting hook as for k2to

work slip st, inserting hook as

tks work slip st] across, finish o


Thread yarn needle with long e

and seam Mitt leaving thumb

opening unsewn.


39/54


Size Finished Chest

Measurement

Extra Small 31" (80 cm)

Small 35" (90 cm)

Medium 39" (99 cm)

Large 43" (109 cm)

Extra Large 46" (118 cm)

Size Note: Instructions are written with sizes Extra Small and

Small in the first set of braces { } and sizes Medium, Large, and

Extra Large in the second set of braces. Instructions will be easier

to read if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only

one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

MATERIALS

Fine Weight Self-striping Yarn

[2.29 ounces, 185 yards(65 grams, 169 meters) per skein]:

{7-8}{8-9-10} skeins

Minimum length of 18-22" (45.5-56 cm) Tunisian hook,

size H (5 mm) orsize needed for gauge

Standard crochet hook, size E (3.5 mm)

Split ring stitch marker7/8" (22 mm) Round buttons - 2

Tapestry needle

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook,

17 tks and 21 rows = 4" (10 cm)


hoodie

VESTThe Hoodie Vest is

made in one piece,

working from the

bottom edge to the

armholes. At the

armholes, the vest is

split into Front, Back,

and opposite Front.

Shoulders are sewntogether. The Hood

is worked by picking

up stitches around

the neck and working

toward the top, then

sewn together across

last row.


40/54


41/54



page 8.

TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH,

page 10.

KNIT 2 TOGETHER,page 11.REVERSE KNIT 2

TOGETHER, page 11.

The self-striping yarn wont react

the same in short spans of fabric

as it will in long spans of fabric.

To achieve the same look in the

smaller expanses of fabric, try

using the 2-Color or 3-ColorTechniques on page 12.

BODYWith Tunisian hook, ch {156-172}

{188-204-220}.



second ch from hook and eachch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:

{156-172}{188-204-220} sts.



across, close.

Rows 5 thru {39-41}{43-45-47}:

Skip first vertical bar, work tks

across, close.

Row {40-42}{44-46-48}

(Decrease row): Skip first verticalbar, work tks across working

6 evenly spaced decreases

(k2tog) across, close: {150-166}

{182-198-214} tks.

Rows {41-43}{45-47-49} and

{42-44}{46-48-50}: Skip first

vertical bar, work tks across,

close.

Next 6 Rows: Repeat last

3 rows twice: {138-154}

{170-186-202} tks.

Next 9 Rows: Skip first vertical


NECK SHAPING


k2tog, work tks across to last3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last

st, close: {136-152}

{168-184-200} sts.



Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-4:

{134-150}{166-182-198} tks.

FIRST FRONTARMHOLE SHAPING


k2tog, work {22-26}

{30-34-38} tks, revk2tog, work

tks in next st, leave remaining{106-118}{130-142-154} tks

unworked, close: {26-30}

{34-38-42} tks.

Rows 2-4: Skip first vertical ba

work tks across to last 3 sts,

revk2tog, work tks in last st,

close: {23-27}{31-35-39} tks.

Row 5: Skip first vertical bar,k2tog, work tks across to last

3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in las

st, close: {21-25}{29-33-37} tk


{16-20}{24-28-32} tks.

FOR SIZE LARGE ONLY


work tks across to last 3 sts,revk2tog, work tks in last st,

close: 27 sts.



3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in las

st, close: 25 sts.


42/54

ALL SIZES

Next {3-2}{2-2-1} Row(s): Skip

first vertical bar, work tks across,

close.

Next Row: Skip first vertical bar,k2tog, work tks across, close:

{15-19}{23-24-31} tks.

Repeat last {4-3}{3-3-2} rows,

{5-7}{9-10-16} times: {10-12}

{14-14-15} tks.

Last {7-11}{5-2-5} Rows: Skip


close.

Finish off.

BACK


skip next {7-9}{11-13-15} sts

from First Front and join yarn with

slip st in next st (counts as first

tks); work {63-67}{71-75-79} tks,

leave remaining {35-41}{47-53-59} tks unworked, close:

{64-68}{72-76-80} tks.

Rows 2 thru {8-7}{7-8-9}: Skip

first vertical bar, k2tog, work tks

across to last 3 sts, revk2tog,

work tks in last st, close: {50-56}

{60-62-64} tks.


43/54


Last {32-35}{37-38-39} Rows:


across, close.

SECOND FRONT


skip next {7-9}{11-13-15} stsfrom Back and join yarn with

slip st in next st (counts as

first st of row); k2tog, work tks

across to last 3 sts, revk2tog,

work tks in last st, close: {26-30}

{34-38-42} tks.


k2tog, work tks across, close:

{23-27}{31-35-39} tks.



3 sts, revk2tog, tks in last st,

close: {21-25}{29-33-37} tks.


{16-20}{24-28-32} tks.

FOR SIZE LARGE ONLY


k2tog, work tks across, close:

27 sts.



3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last

st, close: 25 sts.

ALL SIZES

Next {3-2}{2-2-1} Rows: Skip


close.

Next Row: Skip first vertical bar,

work tks across to last 3 sts,revk2tog, work tks in last st,

close: {15-19}{23-24-31} tks.

Repeat last {4-3}{3-3-2} rows,

{5-7}{9-10-16} times: {10-12}

{14-14-15} tks.

Last {7-11}{5-2-5} Rows: Skip


close.

Finish off.

Sew shoulder seams (Figs. 38a

& b, page 13).

HOODRow 1: With right side facing

and Tunisian hook, join yarnon right Front for right-handers

(left Front for left-handers) with

slip st in end of seventh row

down from shoulder seam

(Fig 42, page 50), slip st in

next row (counts as first st),

pick up loops in remaining

5 rows, work tks across {30-32}

{32-34-34} unworked sts of Back

neck, pick up loops in end of

first 6 rows from shoulder seam,

close: {42-44}{44-46-46} sts.

Rows 2-12: Skip first vertical b

YO (Fig. 35, page 13), work tk

across to last st, YO, tks in las

st, close: {64-66}{66-68-68} st

Rows 13 thru {68-70}

{72-72-72}: Skip first vertical bwork tks across, close.

Finish off.

Sew top seam.

BUTTON BANDSee Basic Crochet Stitches,

page 50.

Row 1 (Right side): With right

side facing and using standard

crochet hook, join yarn with sc

to Row 1 of Front (see Joining

With Sc, page 50), ch 1, sc

evenly across end of rows end

in end of Row 1 of Second Fro

(Fig 43, page 50).

Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in each

across.

Place a marker 2" (6.5 cm)

down from Neck Shaping on

right Front for first buttonhole

placement.


44/54

Row 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc

across to marker, ch 2, skip next

3 sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 2, skip

next 3 sc, sc in next sc and in

each sc across.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in eachsc across to next ch-2 sp, 3 sc

in ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc

in next ch-2 sp, sc in each sc

across.

Row 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc

across; finish off.

ARMHOLE TRIMRnd 1: With right side facing andstandard crochet hook, join yarn

with sc in first unworked st at

underarm; sc evenly around; join

with slip st to first sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc

around; join with slip st to first sc,

finish off.

Repeat for second armhole.

Sew buttons on left Front

opposite buttonholes.

{15-151/2}{151/2-16-16}"

HOOD

{10-101/4}{101/4-103/4-103/4}"

{21/4-23/4}

{31/4-31/4-31/2}" {113/4-13}{14-141/2-15}"

BACK

BODY

{311/2-351/4}{39-423/4-461/2}"

{363/4-401/2}{441/4-48-513/4}"

Note: Dashed lines indicate Hood worked onto

Vest.

FRONTFRONT

{13-

131/4}{133/4-

133/4-

133/4}"

{71/2-

8}

{81/2-

83/4-

9}"

{121/2-

13}

{1

31/4-

133/4-

14}"


45/54


Size Finished Chest

Measurement

Extra Small 32" (81.5 cm)

Small 36" (91.5 cm)

Medium 40" (101.5 cm)

Large 44" (112 cm)

Extra Large 48" (122 cm)

Size Note: Instructions are written with sizes Extra Small and Small

in the first set of braces { } and sizes Medium, Large, and Extra

Large in the second set of braces. Instructions will be easier to

read if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only one

number is given, it applies to all sizes.

MATERIALS

Lace Weight Yarn

[5,040 yards (4609 meters) per cone]:

One cone



Standard crochet hooks, sizes E (3.5 mm) and

K (6.5 mm)

Split-ring stitch markers - 2

Safety pin

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook and two strands ofyarn held together,

15.5 tks and 15.5 rows = 4" (10 cm)

(after blocking)


mitered

VESTThe Vest is worked

in one piece, starting

at the bottom of the

Bodice, separating

at the shoulders to

work the front Bodice

sections. Then, the

lower back armhole is

picked up and joined to

the fronts, working thelower body in one piece.


46/54

The Vest is worked holding

two strands of yarn together

throughout. If you are using a

yarn that is on a cone, you will

need to loosely wind a large ball

to use as one strand of yarn and

hold it together with the yarn from

the cone. Cut four 24" (61 cm)

lengths of yarn and set aside forunderarm joining.


page 8.

TUNISIAN EXTENDED

STITCH, page 10.

KNIT 2 TOGETHER,page 11.

REVERSE KNIT 2

TOGETHER, page 11.

YARN OVER, page 12.

MAKE ONE, page 12.

Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to

curl; once blocked the fabric will

relax.


47/54


BODICEBACK

With Tunisian hook, ch {42-48}

{52-56-58}.

Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up

a loop in horizontal bar of second ch

from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5,page 6), close: {42-48}{52-56-58} tss.

Rows 1 thru {5-5}{5-6-6}: Skip first

vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to l

3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, clos

{32-38}{42-44-46} tks.

Rows {6-6}{6-7-7} thru {28-30}

{32-34-36}: Skip first vertical bar, work

tks across, close.

FIRST SHOULDER SHAPING

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, work {7-9

{11-11-11} tks, leave remaining {24-28

{30-32-34} sts unworked, close: {8-10

{12-12-12} tks.

Rows 2-10: Skip first vertical bar, work

tks across, close.

FIRST FRONT

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, YO, work

tks across, close: {9-11}{13-13-13} sts

Row 2: Skip first vertical bar, M1 , wor

tks across, close.

Row 3: Skip first vertical bar, work tks

across, close.

Rows 4-24: Repeat Rows 1-3, 7 times

{16-18}{20-20-20} tks.


48/54

MITERED SHAPING


work {7-8}{9-9-9} tks, YO, work

{8-9}{10-10-10} tks, close:

{17-19}{21-21-21} sts.


work tks across to next YO, YO,M1, YO, work tks across, close:

{19-21}{23-23-23} sts.

Rows 3 thru {5-7}{9-11-13}:


across to next YO, M1, YO, work

tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks

across, close: {25-31}

{37-41-45} sts.

Finish off.

SECOND SHOULDER

SHAPING

Row 1: With right side facing

and Tunisian hook, skip {16-18}

{18-20-22} sts from first shoulder

and join yarn with slip st as for

tks in next st (counts as first st);

work tks across, close: {8-10}{12-12-12} tks.



SECOND FRONT

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, wo

tks across to last st, YO, work tk

in last st, close: {9-11}{13-13-13

sts.


tks across to next YO, M1, worktks, close.


tks across, close.

Rows 4- 24: Repeat Rows 1-3,

times: {16-18}{20-20-20} tks.

MITERED SHAPING

Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, wo{7-8}{9-9-9} tks, YO, work {8-9}

{10-10-10} tks, close:

{17-19}{21-21-21} sts.


work tks across to next YO, YO,

M1, YO, work tks across, close:

{19-21}{23-23-23} sts.

Rows 3 thru {5-7}{9-11-13}:Skfirst vertical bar, work tks across

to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in

next tks, YO, M1, work tks acros

close; at end of last row, do not

finish off place loop onto a safety

pin: {25-31}{37-41-45} sts.

First Underarm Joining: With

right side facing and using large

size standard crochet hook, join

two strands of 24" (61 cm) yarn

with slip st in last st on last row,

ch {8-10}{12-14-16}, being care

not to twist Body, slip st in first s

Row 1 of Back; finish off.

FRONT

BODICE

FRONT

BODICE

BODICE

BACK

{103/4-121/4}

{131/2-141/2-15}"

WAIST

{441/2-50}{551/4-591/4-63}"

{81/4-93/4}

{103/4-111/4-113/4}"

{71/2-

8}{81/2-

9-

91/2}"

{10-

101/2}

{11-

111/2-

12}"

{103/4-121/4}{131/2-141/2-15}"

Note: Dashed lines

indicate continuous

rows.


49/54


Second Underarm Joining:

With right side facing and using

larger size standard crochet

hook, join remaining two strands

of 24" (61 cm) yarn with slip st

in last st on Row 1 of Back; ch

{8-10}{12-14-16}, being careful

not to twist Body, slip st in first stof last row of Second Front; finish

off.

BODYSkip tks on Fronts and Back

where slip sts are worked.

Row 1: Place loop from safety

pin onto Tunisian hook, skipfirst vertical bar, work tks across

to next YO, M1, YO, work tks

in next tks, YO, M1, work tks

across to next ch, pull up a loop

in next {8-10}{12-14-16} chs,

work tks across Back, pull up

a loop in next {8-10}{12-14-16}

chs, work tks across to next YO,

M1, YO, work tks in next tks,

YO, M1, work tks across, close:{112-134}{154-170-184} sts.


bar, # work tks across to next

YO, M1, YO, work tks in next

tks, YO, M1; repeat from # once

more, work tks across, close:

{152-174}{194-210-224} sts.

WAIST SHAPING

Determine the center {32-42}

{48-54-60} sts on row, place

stitch marker before first st

and after last st (see Markers,

page 50). The center {32-42}

{48-54-60} sts are the Back.

Move stitch markers up as workprogresses so that these sts

are always between the stitch

markers.


bar, work tks across to next YO,

M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO,

M1, work tks across to within

2 sts of marker, revk2tog, work

tks across to next marker, k2tog,work tks across to next YO, M1,

YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1,

work tks across, close:

{172-194}{214-230-244} sts.


bar, work tks across to next YO,

M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO,

M1, work tks across to within

4 sts of marker, revk2tog twice,work tks across to next marker,

k2tog twice, work tks across

to next YO, M1, YO, work tks

in next tks, YO, M1, work tks

across, close.

Row 19: Ch 1 (counts as first

st), skip first vertical bar, work tes

across, close.

Bind Off Row: Ch 1, skip first

vertical bar, work tes across,

close; finish off.

TRIMSFRONT

Row 1 (Right side): With right

side facing and smaller size

standard crochet hook, join yawith sc in end of Bind-Off Row

(see Joining With Sc, page 5

sc evenly across end of rows t

Back, sc in each st across Bac

sc evenly across end of rows,

ending in end of Bind Off Row

Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn; sc

each sc across.

Finish off.

ARMHOLE

Rnd 1: With right side facing a

smaller size standard crochet

hook, join yarn with sc in free

loop of first ch at either undera

(Fig. 41, page 50); sc evenly

around; join with slip st to first

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st an

in each sc around; join with slip

to first sc, finish off.

Repeat around second armhol


50/54

ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)

cm centimeters

k2tog knit 2 together

M1 make one

mm millimeters

revk2tog reverse knit 2 together

Rnd(s) Round(s)

sc single crochet(s)

st(s) stitch(es)tks Tunisian Knit Stitch

tes Tunisian Extended Stitch

tps Tunisian Purl Stitch

trs Tunisian Reverse Stitch

tss Tunisian Simple Stitch

YO yarn over

general

INSTRUCTIONS# work instructions following #

as many more times as

indicated in addition to the

first time.

( ) or [ ] work enclosed

instructions as many times as

specified by the number

immediately following orwork

all enclosed instructions in thestitch or space indicated or

contains explanatory remarks.

colon (:) the number(s) given after

a colon at the end of a row or

round denote(s) the number of

stitches you should have on that

row or round.


51/54


GAUGEExact gauge is essential for proper

size. Before beginning your project,

make a sample swatch in the yarn

and hook specified in the individual

instructions. After completing the

swatch, measure it, counting yourstitches and rows carefully. If your

swatch is larger or smaller than

specified, make another, changing

hook size to get the correct

gauge. Keep trying until you find

the size hook that will give you the

specified gauge.

MARKERSAs a convenience to you, we have

used markers to help distinguish

the beginning of a pattern. Place

markers as instructed. When you

reach a marker on each row, slip

it from the left needle to the right

needle; remove it when no longer

needed.

JOINING WITH SCWhen instructed to join with sc,

begin with a slip knot on hook. Insert

hook in stitch or space indicated,

YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw

through both loops on hook.

BACK LOOP ONLYWork only in loop(s) indicated

by arrow (Fig. 40).

FREE LOOPS OF A

CHAINWhen instructed to work in freeloops of a chain, work in loop

indicated by arrow (Fig. 41).

BASIC

CROCHET

STITCHESSLIP STITCH(abbreviated slip st)

To work a slip stitch, insert

hook in stitch indicated, YO

and draw through st and

through loop on hook(Fig. 42).

SINGLE CROCHET(abbreviated sc)

Insert hook in stitch indicated,

YO and pull up a loop, YO and

draw through both loops on

hook(Fig. 43).

Fig. 4

Fig. 4

Fig. 4

Fig. 4


52/54

The items in this leaflet were made using a variety of yarns. Any brand of the specified weight of yarn may

be used. It is best to refer to the yardage/meters when determining how many balls or skeins to purchaseRemember, to arrive at the finished size, it is the GAUGE/TENSION that is important, not the brand of yar

For your convenience, listed below are the specific yarns used to create our photography models.

STOCKINETTE SCARF

NaturallyCaron.com Country

#0011 Gilded Age

STOCKINETTE HAT

NaturallyCaron.com Country

#0011 Gilded Age

SEED STITCH RUANA

Red Heart Artesano

Variegated - #4375 Exotic

Red Heart Mystic

Green - #0660 Avocado

DROP STITCH COWLKnitting Notions Classic

Merino Superwash Sport

#037 Sicily

DIAGONAL HEARTS CRIB

COVER

Lion Brand Babysoft

#170 Pistachio

yarn

INFORMATION

FELTED DUFFEL

Cascade 220 Wool

Taupe - #8407 Oyster

Green - #8234 Pistachio

CABLED MITTS

Stitch Nation by Debbie

Stroller Alpaca Love

Red - #3920 Ruby

Red Heart Mystic

Green - #0660 Avocado

HOODIE VEST

Premier Yarns, Deborah

Norville CollectionSerenity Garden

#DN800-04 Gems

MITERED VEST

Jagger Spun Zephyr

Wool-Silk

2/18 Lace Weight

Elderberry

HOOK SOURCESSUSAN BATES SILVALUM

ALUMINUM AFGHAN HOO

http://www.coatsandclark.com

BOYE ALUMINUM AFGHA

HOOKS

http://www.simplicity.com

PONY AFGHAN HOOKS

http://itsalljuststring.com

DENISE INTERCHANGEAB

HOOKS

http://www.knitdenise.com

CROCHET ON THE

DOUBLE SWIVEL HOOKS

http://www.anniesattic.com

TULIP CARRY T

INTERCHANGEABLE HOOK

http://www.buycaron.com


53/54


We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete.

We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in

individual work.

Production Team: Instructional/Technical Editor - Lois J. Long; Editorial Writer - Susan McManus

Johnson; Senior Graphic Artist - Lora Puls; Graphic Artists - Dana Vaughn, Becca Snider and

Stacy Owens; Photo Stylist - Brooke Duszota; and Photographer - Jason Masters.

Copyright 2012 by Leisure Arts, Inc., 5701 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, AR 72223 www.leisurearts.

com. All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction

or distribution of this publication or any other Leisure Arts publication, including publications which

are out of print, is prohibited unless specifically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any

form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning, or

e-mail transmission.


54/54

tunisian ebook liesure arts beginning patterns

Documents