Tuesday, 3/24Please check your aquarium job for the week!

Wed., 3/25Sketch & Label the diagram!

Waves…what Waves…what are they?are they?

W.R. Dupre’

Other Wave terms

Period

Frequency

Fetch

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In a water wave, it is the In a water wave, it is the ________moving forward, not the ________moving forward, not the water!!!water!!!wind velocitywind velocitywind durationwind durationfetchfetch (area over which the wind (area over which the wind

blows)blows)

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The water is moving in an orbital path The water is moving in an orbital path below the wave, the energy is moving below the wave, the energy is moving forward!!forward!!

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ThisThis is why a bird/surfer is why a bird/surfer can move up and down can move up and down while a wave passes while a wave passes underneath without being underneath without being moved forward!moved forward!

http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/other-shows/videos/assignment-discovery-shorts-waves-of-destruction-tsunamis.htm

Discovery Channel video

Fig. Story 17.13

Wave Motion is Influenced by Water Wave Motion is Influenced by Water Depth and Shape of the ShorelineDepth and Shape of the Shoreline

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Swash:Swash:

Backwash:Backwash:

Lab today…make predictions!!!

What happens to wave speed as water gets deeper (increase or decrease)?

Increased wave period =_____ wavelength

Bigger waves move __________than smallerwaves (speed)

Opener-Thurs., 3/26Opener-Thurs., 3/26

4 Factors affecting wave 4 Factors affecting wave size at sea (DWW)size at sea (DWW)

Biological significance of wind Biological significance of wind waveswaves

Types of breaking waves:Types of breaking waves:

Plunging Breakers

Types of breaking waves:Types of breaking waves:

Spilling Breakers

Types of breaking waves:Types of breaking waves:

Surging Breakers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLzgzvVxUV4

•In open waters, a wave 1.86 times wave height can be expected every 1,000 waves or so.

•Wave heights of 17 metres to over 30 metres (11 stories high) are common.

• Mariners measure rogue waves; officers triangulate wave crests against parts of the vessel. (USS Ramapo: 112 ft!)

•Marine radar, satellite instruments and wave buoys now provide most of the information on rogue waves.

How rogue waves might form

Rogue wave: 17 M high

Questions to answer:Questions to answer:1.1. Surf and turf – how do waves affect the Surf and turf – how do waves affect the

coastline/beaches? coastline/beaches? List 3 ways that List 3 ways that waves can affect the beach.waves can affect the beach.

2.2. In a wave, what is actually moving?In a wave, what is actually moving?3.3. What is the biological significance of What is the biological significance of

water waves – 3 ways waves affect the water waves – 3 ways waves affect the biology of an area.biology of an area.

4.4. What type of breakers are the most What type of breakers are the most destructive and why?destructive and why?

5.5. Explain why a surfer/pelican can stay Explain why a surfer/pelican can stay in the same place as a wave passes.in the same place as a wave passes.

W.R. Dupre’

Big waves in Hawaii!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TB-SQhg1z9A

Wave info from buoyshttp://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/maps/

Southeast.shtml

Hurricane waves: wind and pressure

Tsunami: seismic forces/landslides…

“Deadly Catch” (due to deadly waves!)

Deadly catch video link

http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/deadliest-catch/best-of-catch/epic-waves.htm

Analogies from “Waves, Not Oil” reading: Pelamis ducks through waves like a _____________________Wave machines are “quite nice to have around, like _________________________Why are waves more powerful than wind?