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QUALITY SYSTEMS FOR QUALITY SYSTEMS FOR GARMENTGARMENT

MANUFACTUREMANUFACTURE

ACHIEVING THE RIGHT FINAL PRODUCT ON TIME

1. 1. PLAN OF THE OVERALL FUNCTION OF QUALITY PLAN OF THE OVERALL FUNCTION OF QUALITY CONTROLCONTROL

• The cost of quality• Functions of Quality Assurance• Commercial advantages form effective

control systems• Economic aspects of quality assurance• The role of quality control

2. THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL IN THE CONTEXT OF QUALITY

MANAGEMENT

• Outline of quality control systems requirements

• Data generated• British Standard 5750

3. FINAL PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONSFINAL PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS

• Quality control in the sampling/development department

• From sample to full production• The Specification layout• Process specification• Sample garment specification• Seam specification• Performance specification

4. THE MAIN RAW MATERIAL - FABRICTHE MAIN RAW MATERIAL - FABRIC

• Fabric and garment dimensions - fabric stability and finished width

• Fabric inspection - examination of fabric on receipt

5. BASIC SEAMING TECHNOLOGYBASIC SEAMING TECHNOLOGY

• Basic technology of seams• Stitch forming action• Quality checks on seams

6. LAYING-UP AND CUTTINGLAYING-UP AND CUTTING

6. QUALITY MONITORING THROUGH QUALITY MONITORING THROUGH CUTTING AND GARMENT ASSEMBLYCUTTING AND GARMENT ASSEMBLY

7.1 RecordingRecording

• Recording systems - making up• Supervisors check list

7.2 TolerancesTolerances• Tolerance limits

7.3 The threshold of faults The threshold of faults• Training quality standards and faults

analysis

7.4 Sampling techniquesSampling techniques• Checking levels of faults and seconds

7.5 Technology if InspectionTechnology if Inspection• Garment examination• Seeing colour and the effect of type of

illuminant on the apparent shade of a sample

• Effects of intensity, angle of illumination and type on the apparent shade of a sample

• Effects on shade of other colours in adjacent areas

• Mounting and displaying for viewing• Colour vision

7.6 checking operatives and examinerschecking operatives and examiners• Assessment of operative effectiveness

from records• Weather trials

7.7 Auditing Boxed StockAuditing Boxed Stock• Boxed Stock Quality Audit

""Quality"Quality"

• Requisite Quality"Requisite Quality" is defined as the design and composition of a product, which has been thoroughly proved by adequate development work, in order to establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use and to avoid producing too high a grade of product for the intended market.

Quality Assurance Quality Assurance "The establishment and maintenance of ALL activities and functions concerned with the attainment of requisite quality“

• Quality Control Quality Control "The systems required for programming and co-ordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organisation to maintain the requisite quality"

Quality for textile and apparel:Quality for textile and apparel:

Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment manufacturing like sewing, colour, sizing, or garment defects should never be over looked.

These defects are discussed below -

Some common Defects

Sewing defects Sewing defects

Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, improper thread tension etc. are some of the sewing defects which can affect the garment quality adversely.

Color defects Color defects

Variation of colour between the sample and the final garment, wrong colour combinations and mismatching dyes should always be avoided.

Sizing defects Sizing defects

Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of various parts of a garment like sleeves of XL size for body of L size garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.

Garment defectsGarment defects

Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, exposed notches, faulty zippers, loose or hanging sewing threads, misaligned buttons and holes, needle cuts, pulled or loose yarn, unfinished buttonhole, inappropriate trimmings etc.

Some of main fabric properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:

• Overall look of the garment.• Right formation of the garment.

• Feel and fall of the garment.

• Physical properties.

• Colour fastness of the garment.

• Finishing properties

• Presentation of the final produced garment.

Methods of quality control:Methods of quality control:

Basically two methods are used for garments quality control –i) Testingii) Inspection.

Maximum garments manufacturers apply inspection method due to high cost of testing equipments.

Inspection:Inspection: Inspection may be defined as the

visual examination in relation to some standards.

Objective:Objective: The main objectives of inspection are –

i. Detection of defects.ii. Correcting the defects or defective garments.

• To inspect garments an integral method named ‘Inspection Loop’ is used given below – Inspection

Correction of the defects Detection of defects

Inform defects to appropriate personnel

Determination of causes of defects

Fig: Inspection Loop.

Steps of inspection in garments industry:Steps of inspection in garments industry:

i) Raw materials inspection (Fabric and Accessories)ii) In Process inspection.iii) Final inspection.

Raw Materials Raw Materials • Shade - checked to be within tolerance

of standard pattern. • Delivery weights - checked and any

shortfall claimed.

Fabric Parameters, Fabric or Garment Blank Fabric Parameters, Fabric or Garment Blank Checks :Checks :

• Shade and appearance correct jacquard pattern correct, absence of barrenness.

• Width normal - (this is only a guide with grey fabric). • Blank weight per dozen to be within tolerance of

specification. • Check fabric for faults and stains. • Finishing loss - on-going record of losses on scouring

etc. • Accountability of knitters.

Sewing thread inspection:Sewing thread inspection:A) Thread construction:Thread construction: To know about thread construction the following should be tested –i. Thread count.ii. Thread ply.iii. Number of twist.iv. Thread balance.v. Thread tenacity.vi. Thread elongation

B) Sew ability:Sew ability: The sewing ability of a thread

is called sew ability. During sew ability test the following quality of thread should be tested –i. Imperfectionii. Finishiii. Package densityiv. Windingv. Yardage

In-process InspectionIn-process InspectionSewing Checks

• Stitches per cm. and thread run-in ratio checked to be within tolerance of specification.

• Evenness, balance and correct bight, no stitching missed

• Absence of skip stitching. • Accountability of machinist.

Final InspectionFinal Inspection • Shade correct and not varying from one part of

garment to another.• Cut is correct - e.g. neck, collar and sleeves

balanced, pockets correct. • Appearance correct, patterns matching. • Accessories correctly applied and working. • Absence of fabric faults and stains.• Correct labelling.

Recovery InspectionRecovery Inspection 

• Check whether remedial works satisfactory.

• Check on volume of work successfully recovered.

• Avoidance of work recycling.

Product Tests Product Tests

• Color fastness to agreed agencies: washing, rubbing, perspiration, lights

• Stability: • Shrinkage, and extension recovery where needed -

to be within tolerance of specification• Endurance:• Abrasion, pilling or snagging - tested where needed.

Rating checked against specification

AQL Random Sampling InspectionAQL Random Sampling Inspection

# The AQL inspection takes the samples from a goods, inspect

them and depends on the quality of samples inspected and decide to

accept or reject them.

Inspection are classified into 3 categories:

• Critical: Must be 100% accurate. There is no range.

• Major: Normally 2.5% • Minor : Normally 4%

# AQL 1.5 is applied to very severe inspection on high-class expensive item. # AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles of normal/good quality are involved.

Sampling Method: • Single Sampling method • Double Sampling method • Multiple Sampling method

In garment industry, single and double normal sampling plans are applied.

Table: Sampling plan for shipment inspection:

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