tsunami oceans

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TsunamiA tsunami (pronounced sue-nahm-ee) is a series of huge waves that cancause great devastation and loss of life when they strike a coast.

Tsunamis are caused by an underwater earthquake, a volcanic eruption, an

sub-marine rockslide, or, more rarely, by an asteroid ormeteoroid crashing into in thewater from space. Most tsunamis are caused by underwater earthquakes, but not allunderwater earthquakes cause tsunamis - an earthquake has to be over aboutmagnitude 6.75 on the Richter scalefor it to cause a tsunami. About 90 percent of alltsunamis occur in the Pacific Ocean.

Many tsunamis could be detected before they hit land, andthe loss of life could be minimized, with the use of moderntechnology, including seismographs (which detectearthquakes), computerized offshore buoys that can measurechanges in wave height, and a system of sirens on the beach

to alert people of potential tsunami danger.NOTE: If you see the water recede quickly and unexpectedlyfrom a beach (this is called drawback), run toward higherground or inland -- there may be a tsunami coming. Also, if you are on the coast andthere is an earthquake, it may have caused a tsunami, so run toward higher ground orinland. Some beaches have tsunami warning sirens -- do not ignore them. The firstwave in a tsunami is often not the largest; if you experience one abnormally-hugewave, go inland quickly -- even bigger waves could be coming soon.

The Word Tsunami:

The word tsunami comes from the Japanesewordmeaning "harbor wave." Tsunamis are sometimesincorrectly called "tidal waves" -- tsunamis are notcaused by the tides (tides are caused by thegravitational force of the moon on the sea). Regular

waves are caused by the wind.

The Development of a Tsunami:A tsunami starts when a huge volume of water is quickly shifted. This rapidmovement can happen as the result of an underwater earthquake (when the sea floor

quickly moves up or down), a rock slide, a volcanic eruption, or another high-energyevent.
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After the huge volume of water has moved, the resulting wave is very long (thedistance from crest to crest can be hundred of miles long) but not very tall (roughly 3

feet tall). The wave propagates (spreads) across the sea in all directions; it can travelgreat distances from the source at tremendous speeds.

The Size of a Tsunami:Tsunamis have an extremely long wavelength (wavelength is the distance between thecrest (top) of one wave and the crest of the next wave) -- up to several hundred mileslong. The period (the time between two successive waves) is also very long -- aboutan hour in deep water.

In the deep sea, a tsunami's height can be only about 1 m (3 feet) tall. Tsunamis areoften barely visible when they are in the deep sea. This makes tsunami detection in thedeep sea very difficult.

The Speed of a Tsunami:A tsunami can travel at well over 970 kph (600 mph) in the open ocean - as fast as a

jet flies. It can take only a few hours for a tsunami to travel across an entire ocean. Aregular wave (generated by the wind) travels at up to about 90 km/hr.

A Tsunami Hits the Coast:
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As a tsunami wave approaches the coast (where the sea becomes shallow), the trough(bottom) of a wave hits the beach floor, causing the wave to slow down, to increase inheight (the amplitude is magnified many times) and to decrease in wavelength (the

distance from crest to crest).

At landfall, a tsunami wave can be hundreds of meters tall. Steeper shorelines producehigher tsunami waves.

In addition to large tsunami waves that crash onto shore, the waves push a largeamount of water onto the shore above the regular sea level (this is called runup). Therunup can cause tremendous damage inland and is much more common than huge,thundering tsunami waves.

Tsunami Warning Systems:Tsunami warning systems exist in many places around the world. As scientists

continuously monitor seismic activity (earthquakes), a series of buoys float off thecoast and monitor changes in sea level. Unfortunately, since tsunamis are not very tallin height when they are out at sea, detection is not easy and there are many falsealarms. Sirens at affected beaches may be activated -- do not ignore them!

Wind-Generated Waves vs. Tsunami Waves:
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Regular waves (caused by the wind) are very different from tsunami waves. Tsunamiwaves are much faster than wind-generated waves and they have a much longerwavelength (the distance from crest to crest). In the deep sea, tsunami waves are verysmall, but by the coast, they dwarf regular waves.

How Often do Tsunamis Occur?Tsunamis are very rare. There are roughly six major tsunamis each century.

Tiny Model of a Tsunami:You can make a tiny model of a tsunami by dropping a rock into a bowl of water,causing ripples to propagate (travel) outwards from the site of impact. Another way isto slightly jolt the bowl of water and watch it slosh over the rim on one side.


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Why are the Oceans Salty?

As water flows in rivers, it picks up small amounts of mineral saltsfrom the rocks and soil of the river beds. This very-slightly salty

water flows into the oceans and seas. The water in the oceans onlyleaves by evaporating (and the freezing of polar ice), but the saltremains dissolved in the ocean - it does not evaporate. So theremaining water gets saltier and saltier as time passes.

SALINITY

Sea saltsParts perThousand

chloride 19.3 o/oo

sodium 10.7 o/oo

sulfate 2.7 o/oomagnesium 1.3 o/oo

calcium 0.4 o/oo

potassium 0.4 o/oo

bicarbonate 0.15 o/oo

bromide 0.07 o/oo

other 0.06 o/oo

TotalSalinity

35.08 o/oo

The salinity (salt content) of ocean water varies. The oceans and seas contain roughly

5 x 10 16 tons of salts. One cubic foot of average sea water contains 2.2 pounds of salt.

The oceans are about 3.5% salt (by weight). Salinity is generally reported in terms of

parts per thousand (abbreviated o/oo), the number of pounds of salt per 1,000 pounds

of water; the average ocean salinity is 35 o/oo.
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The saltiest water is in the Red Sea and in the Persian Gulf, which have a salinity of

about 40 o/oo (due to very high evaporation rates and low fresh water influx). The

least salty seas are in the polar regions, where both melting polar ice and a lot of rain

dilute the salinity.

WEB LINKS ABOUT SALT IN THE OCEANSWhy is the Ocean Salty? By Herbert Swenson, a US Geological Survey Publication.

Why is the Ocean Salty? from the Palo Alto Unified School District: Science On-Line

Guide for Teachers.

The Hydrologic Cycle from Agricultural and Biological Engineering at Purdue Univ.

WHY IS THE OCEAN BLUE?

Sunlight is made up of all the colors of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green,blue,and violet. Some of the sunlight is reflected off the surface of the water, reflecting thecolor of the sky. Some of the sunlight penetrates the water and is scattered by ripplesand particles in the water (this tinges the appearance of the ocean with the color of the

particles). In deep water, much of the sunlight is scattered by the oxygen in the water,and this scatters more of the blue light.

Water absorbs more of the red light in sunlight; the water also enhances the scatteringof blue light. Sir Chandrasekhar Venkata Raman (an Indian physicist) won the Nobel

prize in 1930 for his work on light.

Some Oddly-Colored Seas:The Red Sea often looks red because of red algae that live in this sea.The Black Sea looks almost black because it has a high concentration of hydrogen

sulfide (which appears black).Links:A page on the ocean's color from Charles L. Braun and Sergei N. Smirnov, DartmouthCollegeOcean images from NASA
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What Causes Waves?The winds cause waves on the surface of the ocean (and on lakes). The windtransfers some of its energy to the water, through friction between the airmolecules and the water molecules. Stronger winds (like storm surges)

cause larger waves. You can make your own miniature waves by blowing across thesurface of a pan of water.

Waves of water do not move horizontally, they only move up and down (a wave doesnot represent a flow of water). You can see a demonstration of this by watching afloating buoy bob up and down with a wave; it does not, however, move horizontally

with the wave.Tsunamis (sometimes called tidal waves) are different from surface waves; they areusually caused by underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides.

Related Pages:

TsunamiRead about tsunamis: how they form

and propagate, what the name tsunamimeans, and the speed and sizes of

tsunamis.

The Great Wave Off KanagawaColor a page of the Great Wave Off

Kanagawa by the Japanese painter andprintmaker Katsushika Hokusai (from the

1700s).

TIDESWHAT CAUSES THE TIDES?Tides are periodic rises and falls of large bodies of water. Tides are caused by thegravitational interaction between the Earth and the Moon. The gravitational attractionof the moon causes the oceans to bulge out in the direction of the moon. Another
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bulge occurs on the opposite side, sincethe Earth is also being pulled toward themoon (and away from the water on thefar side). Since the earth is rotatingwhile this is happening, two tides occur

each day. Isaac Newton was the firstperson to explain tides scientifically.

For information on the moon, click here.

The Sun's Interaction with the Tides

Spring TidesSpring tides are especially strong tides (they do nothave anything to do with the season Spring). They

occur when the Earth, the Sun, and the Moon are ina line. The gravitational forces of the Moon and theSun both contribute to the tides. Spring tides occurduring the full moon and the new moon.

The eccentricity of the orbit of themoon in this illustration is greatly

exaggerated.

The Proxigean Spring Tide is a rare, unusually high tide. This very high tide occurswhen the moon is both unusually close to the Earth (at its closestperigee, called the

proxigee) and in the New Moon phase (when the Moon is between the Sun and theEarth). The proxigean spring tide occurs at most once every 1.5 years.

Neap Tides

Neap tides are especially weak tides. They occur whenthe gravitational forces of the Moon and the Sun areperpendicular to one another (with respect to the Earth).Neap tides occur during quarter moons.
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WEB LINKS ON TIDESNOAA on tides

Tides from the Department of Geography, Okanagan University College

Hurricanes

Hurricanes rotate in acounterclockwise direction.

A hurricane is a powerful, rotating storm that forms over warm oceans near theEquator. Another name for a hurricane is a tropical cyclone. Hurricanes have strong,rotating winds (at least 74 miles per hour or 119 kilometers per hour), a huge amountof rain, low air pressure, thunder and lightning. The cyclonic winds of a hurricanerotate in a counterclockwise direction around a central, calm eye.

If this type of storm forms in the westernPacific Ocean, it is called a typhoon.

Hurricanes often travel from the ocean to thecoast and on to land, where the wind, rain,and huge waves can cause extensivedestruction.

Generally, when a hurricane moves over land(or over cold ocean waters) the storm beginsto weaken and quickly dies down because thestorm is fueled by warm water.

On average, there are about 100 tropicalcyclones worldwide each year; 12 of these

form in the Atlantic Ocean, 15 form in the eastern Pacfic Ocean and the rest are inother areas.

Hurricane season is the time when most Atlantic Ocean hurricanes occur; it is fromJune 1 until November 30. In the eastern Pacific Ocean, hurricane season is from May15 until November 30.
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The weather symbol for a hurricane is: .

The marine flags that alert boaters to a hurricane are two square red banners, each

with a black square in the middle: .

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Enchanted Learning

Over 20,000 Web Pages.Sample Pages for Prospective Subscribers

The Watercycle
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The Water Cycle (also known as the hydrologic cycle) is the journey water takes as itcirculates from the land to the sky and back again.

The Sun's heat provides energy to evaporate water from the Earth's surface (oceans,lakes, etc.). Plants also lose water to the air (this is called transpiration). The watervapor eventually condenses, forming tiny droplets in clouds. When the clouds meetcool air over land, precipitation (rain, sleet, or snow) is triggered, and water returns tothe land (or sea). Some of the precipitation soaks into the ground. Some of the

underground water is trapped between rock or clay layers; this is called groundwater.But most of the water flows downhill as runoff (above ground or underground),eventually returning to the seas as slightly salty water.

WHY ARE THE OCEANS SALTY?

Oceans cover about 70% of the Earth's surface. Theoceans contain roughly 97% of the Earth's water


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supply.

As water flows through rivers, it picks up small amounts of mineral salts from therocks and soil of the river beds. This very-slightly salty water flows into the oceansand seas. The water in the oceans only leaves by evaporating (and the freezing of

polar ice), but the salt remains dissolved in the ocean - it does not evaporate. So the

remaining water gets saltier and saltier as time passes.

Web Links On the Water Cycle and the Oceans

Water Cycle

Diagram: LabelMe! Printout

Label the diagram ofthe hydrologic cycle -

how water circulates onearth.

Answers

Water Cycle Find It!Quiz

A quiz on the Earth's watercycle to solve using theLittle Explorers picture

dictionary.

Readers TheaterScript: Water

Cycle AdventureA short play forstudents to read

while learning aboutthe water cycle.

TheEarth'sOceansLearn allabout theEarth'soceans.

The Water Cycle from the Univ. of Michigan

The Hydrologic Cycle from Agricultural and Biological Engineering at Purdue Univ.

EnchantedLearning.com

ALL ABOUT OCEANS AND SEAS

Undersea Explorers

BALLARD, ROBERTRobert Duane Ballard (June 30, 1942 - ) is an American undersea explorer, marine scientist, andUS Naval officer who has been on over 65 underwater expeditions in submarines and deepdiving submersibles. He found the Titanic and many other wrecks. Ballard has revolutionizedundersea exploring by using remotely controlled submersible robotic devices (including Argo-
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Jason; Argo is a remotely controlled submersible vehicle with cameras, and Jason is carried inArgo and sent from it to collect samples and perform other functions). Ballard founded theJASON project and continues to explore the sea.

For more information on Ballard, click here.

BEEBE, WILLIAMWilliam Beebe (1877 - 1962) was an American naturalist and undersea explorer. In 1932, Beebeand Otis Barton descended 3,000 ft (914 m) in a bathysphere (a pressurized steel sphereinvented by Beebe and Barton). They descended off the coast of Nonsuch Island, Bermuda, inthe Atlantic Ocean. During the dive, they communicated with the surface via telephone. Beebewrote many books detailing this and his other adventures around the world.

COUSTEAU, JACQUESJacques-Yves Cousteau (1910-1997) was a French undersea explorer,environmentalist, and innovator. In 1943, Cousteau and the Frenchengineer Emile Gagnan invented the aqualung, a breathing apparatusthat supplied oxygen to divers and allowed them to stay underwater for

several hours. Cousteau traveled the world's oceans in his research vessel "Calypso," beginningin 1948. (Calypso was a converted 400-ton World War 2 minesweeper; it sank in 1996, afterbeing hit by a barge in Singapore harbor). Cousteau's popular TV series, films and many books[including "The Living Sea" (1963), and "World Without Sun" (1965)] exposed the public tothe wonders of the sea.

EARLE, SYLVIASylvia Alice Earle (August 30, 1935- ) is an undersea explorer, marinebiologist (specializing in botany), and author. Earle has done pioneeringwork in studying ocean life, and she has helped develop the equipmentnecessary for underwater exploration. During 50 underwater expeditions

and over 6,000 hours underwater, Earle has discovered many new marine species and set many

diving records. In 1970, Earle led a team of five aquanauts (underwater explorers) who lived for2 weeks (during which they experienced an underwater earthquake) in an underwater laboratoryin a U.S. government project named "Tektite II." She has discovered many underwaterphemonena, including undersea dunes in the Atlantic Ocean off the Bahama Islands.

Formore information on Earle, click here.

PICCARD, JACQUESJacques Ernest-Jean Piccard (1922- ) is a Swiss ocean explorer and scientist who was the firstperson to go to the deepest parts of the Pacific Ocean. On January 23, 1960, he and U.S. NavyLt. Don Walsh descended over 35,802 feet or 7 miles (10,912 m) in a pressured bathyscape,called Trieste. They went to the bottom of the Challenger Deep of the Marianas Trench (200miles southwest of Guam), the deepest place on Earth. The trip took five hours. The bathyscape

was built by Piccard and his father, Auguste Piccard (1884-1962), a notable Belgian physicistand inventor.

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