Sri Pada : An abode half way to heaven.

By Jehan. GoonaratnePhoto Credits : Chinthaka

Date – 28th November – 1st December 2009Venue – Peak Wilderness Sanctuary, North of Rathnapura District.

Introduction

Arguably the most well known of all peaks in Sri lanka , Sri Pade occupies a unique place amongst all races that dwell on this tear drop island. Historical accounts describe the footprint of Lord Buddha at the summit giving rise to it’s name ‘ Sri Pade’ , Hindus believe the footprint to be that of God Shiva. Christians, Muslims alike consider the peak to be place where Adam and Eve lived, hence also known as Adam’s Peak.

It all started with a phone call from Dinal, who briefly asked me whether I was up for the mountain trek just days before our departure. Having never been to Sri Pade, I was skeptical having heard the many tales of the climb, I nevertheless agreed and confirmed my participation on Thursday. I met up with Dinal as planned at the Fort Railway Station at 5.30 a.m on the 28th.; we soon headed to the Bus stand and teamed with Gayan and Imalka. We left on a Rathnapura Bus at 6.20 a.m. We were soon joined by Sudeera and Chinthaka at Maharagama.

Day 1

We reached Kuruwita by 10.15 (@#$%^????) where Gayan purchased some final provisions for our journey. Having missed the Kuruwita – Erathna Bus, we were left stranded until the next bus arrived at 12.00 noon, a 45 min journey through the rugged landscape up hill that saw the transition of urbanized infrastructure in to rural villages, we proceeded through the trek and went pass the last of any human settlements in the vicinity. With less than five minutes in to the forest, the rain gods broke loose and started its onslaught on a some ‘Kolomba Kollas’. We managed to adequately cover our selves from the

downpour and continued to walk deeper in to the forest. The rain lasted for a few hours , where we managed to take a few breaks in between every time we ran in to an ‘Ambalama’. The heavy rains proved to be a real threat as we reached Sitha Gagula our abode for the day late in the night.

(Imalka, Dinal, Jehan, Gayan )

However much to our disappointment, the ambalama was under renovation and half the roofing removed for replacement. The workers however being extremely considerate and understanding our needs suggested we camp at the ‘Hadela Ambalama’ , which was situated on the other side of the stream. Having not much of a choice, we decided to check the place out for ourselves. The crossing of the stream wasn’t the easiest for many, with three out of seven having torches and a strong icy cold current of water gushing through our ankles it was by far the toughest crossing we had ever made. The rock bridge had been completely submerged due to the heavy showers and the algae dressed rocks were not the most supportive either. Accomplishing this challenge left our feet completely numb and this challenging task was only the tip of the ice berg of many challenges we were to face over the next three

days.Handela was a fairly decent dwelling by our standards, a corrugated roof with no leaks, spacious and a single light bulb!. We quickly settled in, Gayan set out the agenda for rest of the day and every man did his part.

(Our master chef, guide and nature encyclopedia!)

We had a hasty dinner thanks to our empty

stomachs that were boxing inside and were soon ready for some frog hunting! Using our head torches we scrutinized every branch, leaf, and rock for these amphibians. Dinal and Sudeera were the maestros, and were soon discussing the some of the live frogs observed.

( In search of sum croaking friends)

Not having the greatest liking towards these animals, Waitha, Chinthaka and I headed to bed as Sudeera and Dinal further analyzed the frogs. Our legs were no more receptive to our commands and we fell asleep as soon as we hit the ground.

Day 2

We woke up at 6 the next day; Chinthaka had already headed towards the river with his camera for some bird watching. I joined him a few minutes later with a bino, Sudeera and Imalka soon followed. Sudeera’s extensive knowledge on these feathered friends’ calls and species alike were truly helpful in providing valuable insight in identifying some of the birds who appeared from a tree or branch every once in a while.

(Hedala Ambalama)

Our breakfast consisted of bread, butter , some superb chilli paste and prawn soup! The much needed vitamins and carbs were a treat to rejuvenate ourselves during the day. We soon left to explore the surrounding streams of Sitha Gagula. As we proceeded down the stream we took a turn off to one of the other streams, and by far one the most beautiful and scenic tributaries thus trekked so far. The white rock pools, various types of ferns, algae painted tree trunks bending over the wate , rock walls on either side, all produced a spellbound garden of eden.

The charming calls of minivets, babblers and warblers mixed with the effusion of water striking rocks at a distance, provides a unique melody of its own filling the surrounding atmosphere with magic. On a personal note this was by far one the most rewarding trails I had been on, reminding me what a paradise we were blessed to be born on and our commitment as the younger generation to safeguard these untouched , untapped thickets for the future generations yet to come.

(Nature’s wonders)

We headed back to camp and had lunch . A few words of appreciation to the workers near by and we were off on our journey. Yet again the sky was never cooperative with us , and were soon wearing our rain coats and other material to keep us from being drenched. On our journey we came across rocks settling on each other so as to form a cave. Various sticks had been placed such that it would avoid the rock from falling over . It was customary in the good old days for debutants also known as ‘ Koddu karayo’ to place a stick while passing. Such acts as believed by the village folk would help pilgrims pass through the jungle unharmed.

(One spot to place sticks for kodu karayas)

The trek proved to be tougher as it now consisted of steep climbs along the hills. The presence of elephants was evidenced with elephant-dung lying around the mountain paths, the very existence of such mammals at high altitudes was indeed a shocker for me. We reached ‘Indikatupana Amblama’ in the evening . The much awaited Sri Pade was to be seen at a distance, the unmistakable conical peak stood out amongst other peaks in it’s vicinity , dwarfing many.

(Indikatupana and Sri Pade at the back drop)

Another conspicuous peak was the ‘Kunudiya Parwathaya’, with a plateau at its height.We had our dinner and left on a night trek to continue with our frog hunting. This followed for anther 30 minutes as we headed back to camp. Not so long after did Dinal alarm us all with the discovery of a Hump nosed pit viper, just 10 meters away from the ‘ambalama’.

(Hump-nosed Viper)

On another note it was rewarding to observe the peak in the night. On and off one could observe the street lights leading up to the ‘Maluwa’(Summit) . At one fine moment , with the mist covering the peak half way up , the ‘Maluwa’ lit up with orange lights was more like a volcano nearing eruption, the blurred glow observed through the mist was one of the most picturesque sights of this mystical mountain.

(Sri Pade at night)

( Sudeera …..dreaming about his first kiss???)

Day 3

Most of us had many wet clothes to dry up. The heavy overcast in the morning prevented any form of drying up as we relentlessly swung our clothes in desperation with our bear hands hoping the clothes would lose some amount of moisture. Gayan’s plan was to leave ‘Indikatupana’ as early as possible. We left Indikatupana at 8.25 a.m.. Imalka performed the customary ‘indikatu ethima’ ,where he unwound a complete ball of white thread alongside a fence literally covered with white wool turned yellow, another customary for us debutants.

( Imalka paying rites as he unwound the thread)

With the peak in sight, we were still miles away, thanks to the cragged landscape that saw us trekking in ascents and descents. We were fortunate see a troop of purple-faced leaf monkeys along the foot path. Being the biggest primate on the island and an endemic species, I was just as excited as the others were, for it was a first time sighting in the wild. An hour’s trek and we reached our destination ‘Haramitipana’ by 9.30 a.m. ‘Haramitpana’ was where access routes from Kuruwita and Rathnapura finally merged forming a single path to the peak from here on. The only boutique was seen to be cleaning and clearing rubbish in an effort to welcome the pilgrims in the evening for the ‘opening climb’ of the season. Leaving our bags behind we left on the final phase of our journey at 9.45a.m. Steps had been constructed with concrete here on, inducing a less tiring journey ahead. The bird life was plentiful as many of Sri Lankas’s endemic birds were observed. Gayan’s hawk eyes also spotted a Boe’s Roughside swirling along a drain.This blood red retile was a treat to watch, as its slow tender movements were the least expected from any snake. (On left : Boe’s Roughside)

A few minutes later Dinal stumbled upon a wild discovery. An unidentified species of shrew that had perished due to unknown circumstances. As per the post mortem conducted “Dr” Imalka, the poor fellow had died of dehydration , due to excessive alcohol consumption. The trek continued as we halted almost every five minutes pondering over any form of life.

(On Right : Homicide!!)

The climb never seem to end at one point , spiral staircases narrowing steps to only a few inches were nerve cracking tests of might and wits.

The surrounding peaks seemed to lose elevation as we could watch over vast areas of forest. The misted winds sent chills down our spine as thin layer t-shirts were no match for these icy air currents. We reached the ‘Maluwa’ by 1.30 p.m. A humble sense of achievement finally crept in to our minds, 3 days of trekking through some of the most unforgiving, unfavorable conditions and it all had been worth it , every second of it. We paid homage and performed customaries. The view around was severely hindered due to misty conditions, however we were fortunate to see the castle reigh tank and the Hatton Town.

(On Left: Gayan)

( At the summit : Chinthaka, Sudeera, Gayan, Imalka, Dinal, Wasitha, Jehan)

A small snack and we commenced our descent.

(On our way down)

Watching our step , the steep staircase was not something familiar to most of us, specially when seeing no indication of ‘rock bottom’ any where close by.

( Jehan and Dinal, meditating…….. ah no dozing!!)

Yet again we went on observing the hidden treasures of the peak wilderness. A never boring eye of fascination as we headed back to camp.

We moved in to a small hut near by , marking our territory with personal items around the hut. Gayan’s culimary skills were once again proven beyond a doubt as he prepared one of the best meals during the entire trip so far. A mixed fried rice, with salad and prawns ,for a few minutes the whole camp was silent as everyone enjoyed a hearty meal after the conquest.

Except for Chinthaka , Wasitha and I , all the others went on their daily night trek in search of frogs that night .

Day 4

An early wake up the next day as I stood up for minutes gazing at the peak , It was the Uduwap poya day and the Sri Pada season had begun. The picturesque peak was in full glamour the slowly encapsulating rays of sunlight could be seen projected upwards as the chirping of bulbuls and white eyes could be heard at a distance.We had a noodles breakfast ,the last of our provisions and packed our bags for departure. This time around we decided to take the Rathnapura road. One of the three access routes to Sri Pada. The path down hill was just as enchanting as the Kuruwita road, filled with streams and the foot path winding through rocky outcrop underneath the forest shade.The steps had been built and we registered a count of 5800 left to step down, as inscribed on a step. We strolled with greater hardship on the descent as our ankles and heels were numb after a tireless trek for three days.

We reached Palabeddala by 1.00 p.m. and took the bus to Gilimale , where we were to join the YZA members who were on their annual excursion and there on ending up in Colombo during the night.

( Gayan conveying a strong message to those who take this astounding forest for granted!)

As all good things come to an end, so did this amazing trek . A wonderful experience that reminded me again and again, of how grateful I am to live on this spectacular island. These fascinating and revering primary forests are to be conserved and protected in the years to come. The Sri Pade experience would not be complete without this enchanted forest . Mother nature’s gifts are to be accepted and treated with respect. It is only saddening at times to see how fellow citizens appear to treat the forest with no respect and take it for granted whilst foreign tourists take absolute care not to leave anything behind except for their footprints.

Apart from a few polythene bags and biscuit wrappers , the trails were clean and well preserved. The increased spreading of ‘ Gadapana’ on either side of the road was an indication of a real threat in the

future, to the forest. This alien species of plant is of no use to any animal or the eco system and is likely to have a negative impact on the forest’s natural system of balance.

Animals seen…..

Birds Observed

1. Grey Wagtail2. Black Bulbul3. Thick-billed Leaf Wabbler ©4. Sri lanka Blue Magpie5. Indian Scimitar Babbler6. Ashy-headed Laughing thrush7. Yellow fronted Barbet8. Brahiminy Kite9. Crested Serpent Eagle10. Yellow-eared Bubul11. Rofous Babbler12. Grey Hornbill13. Ceylon White-eye14. Dark fronted Babbler15. Grey Tit16. Pacific Swallow17. Barn Swallow18. Spotted Dove

Reptiles Observed

1. Boe’s Roughside2. Hump-nosed Viper

Mammals observed

1. Purple faced Bear monkey2. Giant Squirrel