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AFFILIATED TO NEPAL TOURISM BOARD

Kathmandu’s world heritage sites give great reasons for tourists to linger on and savor old world Kathmandu charm.

on Festival Watch

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PARA-glIdINgon Adventure Intro

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Dear Readers,

Fuel shortages, crippling load shedding,

traffic jams… why do we love Kathmandu

again? For our cover story this issue,

we decided to go back to the things we

still love about the valley. Yes, we left

out the mo: mo places and your favorite

hangouts – perhaps for a later issue. The

seven World Heritage Sites that we have

covered here are pretty amazing too, for

similar and different reasons. All of these

spots showcase different kinds of art and

architecture and have different things to

offer while they all share a similar heritage,

our heritage of art and architecture and

culture. As the country goes through

troubled times, perhaps we need to focus

on the latter, what makes us similar and not

what small things divide us.

Also on the World Heritage Site list but from

a different part of the world is the amazing

Petra. Paragliding is as close to flying as

can be possible - at least for now and after

looking at some amazing aerial pictures,

you might like us want to get up and go

paraglide! Read on also about Sagarmatha

National Park – a natural heritage site.

As spring arrives and we stack away our

winter wear, it’s time to hit the outdoors

and check out some of the heritage sites on

your own.

Happy Travelling.

the editorial team

Please do send us your valuable comments and suggestions

at feedback@traveltimes-mag.com

Editorial

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Contents

tRAvelogUea journey to Sagarmatha

national ParkOur resident doctor writes about a journey

to the spectacular Sagarmatha National Park, home to some of the highest

mountains on Earth.

FoodRINkSamay bajiFondly called the ‘food of the gods’, Samay Baji is a Newar gastronomical delight.

CoveR StoRykathmandu’s world Heritage Sites Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with seven of the ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites falling in the valley. Read on to find out what makes these sites so special.

Start traveling....with Travel Times

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hotelS ANd CASINoS

dwarika’s Hotel

Borne out of a noble effort to preserve Newar architecture, Dwarika’s Hotel deserves all the

accolades it has gathered and more.

globAl tReASURePetraThe Rose Red City is designed to strike wonder into the hearts of all those that entered it.

FeStIvAl WAtCh

biSkeT JaTraA beautiful disaster.

AdveNtURe INtRoParaglidingNeed wings to fly away? Paragliding makes it possible!

PeRFeCt tAkeAWAySkhukuriMade famous by the Gurkhas, find out what makes a Khukuri a great souvenir.

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12 travel NewsGet with the latest news and events in Nepal and around the globe.

RecreationHoli raftWhat better way to get wet for Holi than facing some Nepali rapids!

holiday destinationHongkongSmall but beautiful, Hongkong is packed with all types of action.

health times Staying Healthy in kathmanduGet ready for Kathmandu with this useful guide on staying safe in the city.

Recommended RestaurantsA guide to the most happening restaurants in town.

events and tipsFind out what’s happening around you.

WANt to WRIte FoRtRAvel tIMeS?

Send us your travel articles or ideas at articles@traveltimes-mag.com

contents

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“togetheR FoR toURISM”FlAgS NePAl toURISM yeAR-Nty 2011

The most anticipated and highly expected Tourism campaign of Nepal, Nepal Tourism Year-NTY 2011 was officially launched among a large mass of around 50,000 from different walks of life ranging from national citizens, national and international agencies, political parties, government officials, private sector, tourism stakeholders, ethnic communities, army, armed police, police, scout members, students and journalists to express their commitment for the tourism year long event with the theme of “Together for Tourism” at the premises of Tundikhel in Kathmandu. Led by a unique Nepali cultural troupe with

various cultural programs demonstrating tourism related activities and tools the NTY 2011 was launched with the illumination of the peace torch brought from Lumbini by Hon Prime Minister, Madhav Kumar Nepal at Tundikhel amidst a gala festival along with parades from six different place of the valley. Similar gala events are being organized at Biratnagar, Janakpur, Birgunj, Chitwan, Pokhara, Bhairahawa, and Nepalgunj aiming to boost up Nepal’s tourism industry by bringing in one million foreign tourists within the one year event .

Yogendra Sakya, National Coordinator

of NTY 2011 briefed and highlighted the framework of the program that political commitment was a must for organizing the event in a successful manner.

“With a theme ‘together for tourism’, the event will seek every individual’s commitment to making the NTY 2011 a success,”

“It will bring all stakeholders together at a platform to show their firm commitment that they will contribute to making the event a success,” he said while addressing a gathering during the official launching of the event.

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Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza

now has a new General M a n a g e r ,

Vini Gupta, who had been work-

ing for more two-decades in different hotels in the United States, will be working as the General Manager of Hotel Soaltee Crowne Plaza. Gupta is the successor to Mr. Greesh Bindra, who has successfully completed his period in office.

Gupta will soon head to the hotel´s head-quarter in Singapore to better understand the work cycle of this chain of Hotels. He will be working towards making Soaltee more attractive for the guests with better packages for its clients. He also ensured that Soaltee will actively participate in providing its hospitality service in Nepal Tourism Year 2011 campaign.

SoAltee CRoWNe PlAzA hAS A NeW gM

More than £14,000 has been raised through the charity Community Action Nepal to preserve one of the last remaining tradi-tional Sherpa homes as a museum. Prince Charles has been appointed the president of the Sherpa Heritage Trust and Sir Chris Bonington, its patron. This traditional home in the centre of Khumjung was built in the 16th century when the Sherpa peo-ple entered the country from Tibet.

The Prince told Telegraph Travel: “Trek-king in Nepal twice, I was struck by the breathtaking beauty of the scenery and the charm of the Nepalese people. I fully appreciate the importance of renovating the Sherpa Heritage House into a living museum so that present and future genera-tions in the Sherpa community can experi-ence their rich and remarkable heritage.” A fundraising trek led by Sir Chris Bonington and Pertemba Sherpa to the grand open-ing of the Sherpa Heritage House will take place in late October.

Travelnews NaTIONal

Nepal government has awarded the con-tract for a detailed feasibility study of a second international airport at Nijgadh-Dumarwana of Bara district to Landmark Worldwide Company, Korea.

According to Binay B. Rawal, Landmark’s Nepal representative, the feasibility study will start in April and last for 10 months. The company will invest $3.8 million for the detailed feasibility study and design feasibility study. With a total investment of US$ 600 million in the first phase and US$ 1 billion until the final stage, the project is to be operated under the “build, own, op-erate, transfer” (BOOT) model.

The proposed new airport will have two parallel runways. As per the design feasi-bility, the airport will be constructed con-sidering the future forecast growth of pas-senger traffic.

Destination Manang 2010 campaign is all set to promote tourism and protect its timeless culture and tradition. The main objective of the campaign is to disseminate information about Manang district to trav-elers seeking an once-in-a-lifetime adven-

ture and unique cultural experience.

The program is set to be formally inaugu-rated on Baisakh 2nd. Programs like Grand Metha, Grand Yartung, Badhe Festival, Tarkya, Tilicho Lake Festival, Tho (Deer Festival) and Nar and Phu Fam trip have been planned for the festival. This festival will hopefully promote the district as a spe-cial travel destination for both domestic and international visitors.

The festival is being organized by Tour-ism Entrepreneurs’ Association of Manang (TEAM) along with a number of other supporters.

SeCoNd INteRNAtIoNAl AIRPoRt to tAke oFF

deStINAtIoN MANANg 2010 to be oRgANIzed

PRINCe ChARleS RAISeS FUNdS FoR SheRPA MUSeUM

The Fishtail Air has successfully landed new helicopter at Tribhuvan International Airport. The new addition to its fleet, the

AS 350 B3 Helicopter was bought from the South East Asia Eurocopter Company of Singapore.

AS 350 B3 can easily land up to 23000 feet and can carry an addition of 1400kg along with 6 passengers. It can even fly in the tempestuous weather of the Himalayas. This has opened the possibility for the flight up to the base camps of the moun-tains and even above it. Fishtail Air plans to fly the helicopter for Pokhara-Lukla, and Simikot-Kailash Mansarobar flights.

FIShtAIl AIR ACqUIReS NeW helICoPteR

Global Bank Ltd. (GBL) and Yeti Airlines Domestic Pvt. Ltd. (YADL) have signed an agreement to launch e-ticketing from the month of March.

Janak Sharma, Deputy General manager of GBL and Vijay Shrestha, Director of YADL signed the agreement during the program.

This e-ticketing is aimed to facilitate trav-elers and minimize the need to visit travel agencies to buy the ticket. Now general public can easily have access to flights from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Biratnagar, Bhatrapur, Bhairawa, Janakpur, Dhangadi, and Nepalgunj with a click.

globAl bANk ANd yetI AIRlINeS FoR e-tICketINg

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for Nepal, bounced back with a remark-able growth of 24.25 percent. The Eu-ropean segment was up 20.6 percent and the number of visitors from the US soared to 53.2 percent.

This is the ninth consecutive month that Nepal has witnessed a growth in international tourist arrivals, confirming improved prospects for Ne-pal in 2010 with rising business and consumer confidence. A total of 33,441 foreign tourists de-parted from TIA in February. The number of Nepali arrivals stood at 49,288 while departures numbered 54,564 during the same period.

Travelnews NaTIONal

To enlist your news send us the details at news@traveltimes-mag.com

Gazing at the magnificent 108 ft (approximately 32.9188 m) statue of Lord Shiva at Shanga, Bhak-tapur, artisan and sculptor Mat-uram Verma and the structural Er. Manohar Raj Bhandari along with their team’s seven years of sweat and toil has come to frui-tion. Kamal Jain, Chairman of Hilltake Industries Private Lim-ited, is the initiator behind this

whole project and has devoted a lot for its completion as he smiles and says that it will be launched on 24th May which is auspicious day for the Bhagwan Sthapana as told by the holy priest to him. Be-ing attached to Hindu Religion and a true devotee of Lord Pash-upatinath Jain planned to initiate it. The colossal statue of Lord Shiva is being named as “Kailas-hnath Mahadev ” which is attired in leopard skin, serpent around his neck carrying a trident in one hand and pellet drum in another. Maturam Verma, who hails from Rajasthan has been involved for this project along with his five as-sistants from India and with many nepali workers from past seven years. Hilltake Health & Home, adjacent to the statue makes one forget the din and bustle of urban mundanity.

tAlleSt StAtUe oF loRd ShIvA Set to lAUNCh oN 24th MAy 2010

Tourist arrivals by air in February heaved a mas-sive 33 percent to 33,492 persons compared to the same period last year. Arrivals from South Asia were up 12.1 percent according to the fig-ures released by Tribhuvan International Air-port (TIA). China, one of the largest markets

WEDC, FWEAN and in collaboration of other organizations, International SME’s Business Meet was organized from 8-10thMarch to flour-ish trade and tourism among South eastern Asian countries. Kathmandu Joint Declaration and skill exchange workshops were also orga-nized among the participating nations during the event. Dr. Kiran Bedi, recipient of Ramon Magsaysay Award gave a keynote speech and also elaborated on the issues of Women while she also inaugurated the SCWEC showroom at Pulchowk managed by FTG Nepal.

With the theme “Equal rights, Equal Opportu-nities: Progress for all”, FTG Nepal, FNCCI-

hoMoSexUAl MARRIAge At the eveReSt bASe • CAMP Homosexual marriage is being legalized in May this year and Gay marriage at the Everest base camp has been planned. Nepal is observing the “Nepal Tourism Year 2011” and hopes welcoming more gay visitors.

bUddhA’S ePIC • Sugata Saurabha lAUNChed IN eNglISh Chittadhar Hridaya, renowned Newari poet’s, 400- pages epic Sugata Suarabha has been translated in English and published by Oxford University Press, US which will help readers to know more about Buddha in detail.

dhUlIkhel MAhotSAv 2066 obSeRved• On the occasion of Harisiddhi Jatra, organized every 12 years, Dhulikhel Mahotsav was observed with large gala events and the inauguration of Arniko’s statue.

loS ANgeleS getS Nty hoARdINg boARd• Dr. Shankar Sharma, Ambassador to Nepal at US in-augurated the first hoarding board of the NTY 2011 on 8th March near LA 710 Highway which was sponsored by tourism entrepreneur Basudev Ghimire.

SANkhU MAhotSAv to be MARked oN 2• Nd - 4th

APRIl Along with Goddess Vajrayogini’s festival , a unique and not to be missed religious and cultural event, the Sankhu Mahotsav at Sankhu is being inaugurated with various events which will last for three days from 2nd to 4th of April.

AIR ARRIvAlS UP 33 PeRCeNt IN FebRUARy

100th INteRNAtIoNAl WoMeN’S dAy MARked IN NePAl

news in brief

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Qatar Airways celebrated another mile-stone in its remarkable short history by announcing its fleet size has grown to 80 aircraft – double the size of five years ago. The airline has inducted its 15th Boeing 777 into the fleet and maintains a delivery schedule of more than one new aircraft a month, retaining its status as one of the world’s fastest growing airlines.

These will serve long haul routes from the airline’s operational hub of Doha, capital of the State of Qatar. Qatar Airways is con-tinuing its expansion strategy with vigor as CEO of Qatar Airways, Akbar Al Baker said “As our fleet increases, we are able to raise capacity on existing services and in-troduce new routes which is continuing as planned despite the industry facing chal-lenges amid the current global economic climate” .

Qatar Airways currently operates a modern fleet of 80 aircraft to 86 diverse business and leisure destinations across Europe, Middle East, Africa, Asia Pacific, South Asia and North America. Here in Nepal, it has been operating 2 flights a day and will add its 3rd flight from 28th of March.

India has taken initiative to ensure con-nectivity with Nepal after the recent agree-ment with Bangladesh.

A new air services agreement was signed between the two countries during the visit of the President of Nepal, Dr Ram Baran Yadav to India. A Memorandum of Under-standing was also signed for railway infra-structure development at five border points along Nepal-India border along with MoU for development of Nepal Bharat Maitri Polytechnic at Hetauda and for establish-ment of Nepal Bharat Maitri Sabha Griha in Birgunj.

Continental Airlines has announced the ex-pansion of its mobile boarding pass service to London’s Heathrow Airport. This service allows customers to receive boarding passes electronically on their cell phones or PDAs and eliminates the need for paper boarding passes.

Mobile boarding passes has a two-dimensional bar code along with passenger and flight in-formation, which scanners validate. The tech-nology prevents manipulation or duplication of the boarding passes.

Continental was the first carrier to offer paper-less boarding passes in the U.S. in a pilot pro-gram with the Transportation Security Admin-istration that began in December 2007. The airline currently offers mobile boarding passes at 42 airports, including its hubs in New York, Houston and Cleveland.

The Chinese lantern festival 2010 was cel-ebrated with much anticipation in Hotel Radisson by the China Eastern Airlines. The Chinese ambassador to Nepal Mr. Zheng Xianglin and various people from travel agencies and media were present on the occasion. On February 28th the Chi-nese Zodiac celebrates the start of a brand

new year in its traditional cycle with the Famous Lantern Festival. On the 15th lu-nar day of the year, the Chinese worship the Heaven Officer of Taoism and pray for luck. To mark the festival the hall was decorated aptly with light lanterns. The event also coincided with the Nepali Holi festival making the celebration even more festive and joyful.

China Eastern Airlines Co. Ltd (CEA) is one of the biggest airlines of China. Based in Shanghai, CEA has 9 domestic branch-es and also is the controlling shareholder of China Cargo Airlines, China Eastern Ji-angsu Airlines Co., Ltd and China Eastern Wuhan Airlines Co. Ltd.

Tourists seem to love the several ice hotels that have appeared over the past few years in Japan, Canada, and Sweden. A new addition to this icy series is the Ice Hotel at Balea Lac in Romania.

Although some might be skeptical, there are thou-sands of snow-fans who wish to spice up their ski holiday with a bit of the bizarre and can’t wait to sleep in a very posh igloo for a night or two.

The Balea Lac Hotel in Ro-mania features ice; walls, decorations, furniture, even glasses are made of ice. Al-though a newbie on the scene it proudly presents its small yet charming ice

church, first of its kind, where occasional masses and more importantly eccentric wed-dings take place.

INdIA, NePAl SIgN FoR SoUth ASIAN CoNNeCtIvIty

qAtAR AIRWAyS Fleet SIze RISeS to 80 AIRCRAFt

CelebRAtIoN oF ChINeSe lANteRN FeStIvAl At RAdISSoN

NeW ICe hotel At bAleA lAC, RoMANIA

CoNtINeNtAl AIRlINeS lAUNCheS MobIle boARdINg PASSeS

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Year 2010 is off to a good start for Asia’s travel industry fol-lowing its lead in the global travel market’s

recovery. Abacus International, a veteran of the travel industry, revealed that emerg-ing markets and new business practices will underpin growth and set the underly-ing trends for the year ahead.

Travelnews INTerNaTIONal

International Summit on Medical Travel, Wellness and Retirement (IMWell Sum-mit) on October 12-15, 2010.

The IMWell Summit is the first of its kind to present the global state of healthcare, explore current and future opportunities in medical tourism, and map out a strategy for the growth of the entire industry.

Emerging markets - one of the green shoots seen during the economic crisis - will con-tinue to drive travel bookings up with In-doChina and Central Asia as key growth regions. Several other markets such as Nepal, Bangladesh and South Korea had also contributed to Abacus’ better-than-expected business results. Asia is expected to enjoy 5.7% GDP growth in 2010, with emerging markets leading the rest of the world out of the downturn.

With the Philippines spearheading the initiative for Asia to be a regional hub for health, wellness and retirement, represen-tatives of different Asian countries includ-ing India, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea, Tai-wan and Singapore are set to gather in the

The Singapore Tourism Board is targeting 11.5 – 12.5 million visitor arrivals for 2010.

2010 will see the much anticipated opening of World Sentosa and Marina Bay Sands resorts. There will be commencement of new events such as the Asia Fashion Exchange, the Youth Olympic Games and Live! Singapore while its signature events such as the Singtel Singapore Formula One Grand Prix, F1 Rocks and Singapore International Water Week will continue. Collectively, they will enhance Singapore’s stature as a vibrant global city with a distinctive lifestyle that attracts visitors.

ITB Berlin is offering its visitors a trade fair guide for mobile and smart-phone users for the second year.

The ITB Mobile Guide lets its users navigate their way more easily around the Exhibition Grounds. Besides a map of the grounds, information includes the program of the ITB Convention, a list of events along with press conferences, presentations, receptions, and a function for looking up exhibitors.

This clever pocket-sized trade fair companion can be easily downloaded at http://www.itb-berlin.de/mobil via an internet landline and itb-berlin.mobi via a mobile phone / smart-phone browser or texting.

Group tours are popu-lar on Mainland China but to decide on the best

tour company is the difficult part. The China Guide, a Beijing-based travel company, is of-fering unique group tours for 2010 and has came up with novel ideas to brand itself as one of the best company among the visitors.

In the homepage guest will be acquainted about China Guide’s unique service style. The most useful tool for trip planners how-ever, is the company’s Facebook group where clients have posted their personal experiences and photos of The China Guide’s tours, http://www.TheChinaGuide.com/facebook

Facebook, the fast growing networking site is a great reference tool that potential trip plan-ners can use and trust. The China Guide’s Facebook group is open for all guests to post feedback, comments, trip highlights or ask questions about future travel. The group also has a large selection of photos that have been uploaded by past clients, highlighting their tour in China.

ASIAN CoUNtRIeS UNIte FoR MedICAl toURISM

SINgAPoRe tARgetS ARoUNd 12.5 MIllIoN vISItoR IN 2010

Itb beRlIN NoW oN yoUR MobIle

FACebook MAkeS tRAvel to ChINA eASIeR

ASIA leAdS tRAvel INdUStRy’S ReCoveRy; PRoMISINg StARt to 2010

IMWell SummitInternational Summit on Medical

Travel, Wellness & Retirement

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Text by yesha Malla

Holi RaftA recreational initiation of Yeti Travels

holi - the festival of colors! the day that people associate the beginning of summer with and ring it in they do by playing with water and smearing each others’ faces

with colorful powder. Almost a battle of sorts, a battle with unfair advantage to the offensive party and that leaves not blood in its trails but pollution and wet and harassed bodies. No wonder many people wish they were far away from the madding ground, so to speak, where they can celebrate with loved ones amid laughter in the true spirit of Holi. Yeti Travel and Tours, a creative company that always has innovative and fun ideas to promote Nepal’s natural wonders to the masses, came up with the

perfect solution– holI RAFt.

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Think about it. Instead of being reluctantly drenched with water from suspicious origins, you get to play Holi while rafting,

without artificial colors and with water that comes “trickling down from the majestic Himalayas”. And with the present water shortage in homes, the event also brings to your disposal an unlimited supply of water! Besides, people who don’t like itchy colors or being hit by water-filled balloons thrown in the name of fun can rejoice at the opportunity to play Holi au natural.

With this refreshing concept dubbed the “Holi Boat”, the event Yeti Travel & Tours offered was obviously popular because twenty or so people showed up early in the fine morning of Holi. We hit the road at eight in the morning, once all of my future rafting mates had trickled in and settled down in our swanky tourist bus –with air conditioning – for a three hour long drive to CHARAUDI. We were an eclectic bunch. Even career-wise, rafting had brought together people from different fields: a criminal psychologist, a journalist, a geohydrologist, even a self termed “peace specialist”. Having dressed befitting rafting purposes – anything that dries off quickly, swimsuits, shorts, tees, we finally got ready for the main reason we had come here for - an adventure of a lifetime. We donned lifejackets and helmets and gathered to listen to instructions from the rafting guide.

Rafting is called an extreme sport for a reason,

he warned us. We could drown, or injure ourselves against the craggy rocks if we weren’t careful. He went on to list out basic safety procedures - make sure the life jackets are a tight yet comfortable fit. Make sure you row as a team, following the guide’s instructions to paddle forward or back. The proper way to sit on the raft is on the edge of the raft, with feet tucked inside the boat. If you fall off, don’t panic, but swim towards the boat to be pulled up and if you don’t know how to swim, you can trust the life jackets. A bit intimidated, especially once we were asked to sign waiver forms indicating understanding and acceptance of potential serious risks, we clambered onto the rafts. And as the waters gently lapped around us, most of our trepidation washed away and got replaced with thrill and excitement for the adventure.

“Forward all!” our guide shouted, and we started paddling in earnest, trying to synchronize our movements. The first few minutes were spent concentrating hard on the paddling movements, to the guide maneuvering the boat, but soon we had gained rhythm and started to enjoy the ride. Rafting on the Trishuli River is great for beginners, graded 3 in water difficulty, based on the Colorado River scale of 1-10, with 1 being the easiest and 10 the most difficult and quite technical. Rafting in February - dry season - meant that it was going to be even calmer. As a fellow rafter quipped, level 3 was like sailing on a huge

bathtub. The best time to raft, of course is the monsoons.

As other rafts gained up on us, in celebration of Holi, vigorous water fights ensued, and soon we were splashing water at each other with our paddles and screaming “Happy Holi!” Our raft had a bucket, the more the easier to retaliate their offences, complete with battle cries. We were completely drenched in minutes. We paddled further downstream, keeping an ear out for more instructions from the guide, pushing the waters back and forth against the current and propelling the raft onwards. We passed scenic hills that towered over us and children playing at the shore. More children waited on overheard bridges, ready to aim colored balloons at our rafts. We paddled faster.

The rapids. The thrill of the whole rafting experience. As water swirled around us, splashing ferociously and drenching our drying bodies yet again, our hearts beat faster and we let out delighted shouts. The raft swayed and bobbed dangerously on the water, prompting us to scream louder, until our guide resignedly asked us to keep it down or we wouldn’t be able to hear his instructions. There were five to six rapids during our trip with names such as “Upset Ladies’ Delight”, “Surprise”, “Upset” or “Monsoon”, and they were the eagerly anticipated highlights of the entire trip.

We were genuinely sad when our guide told us we had reached the end of the rafting expedition. More rafting had been planned but because the trip had started late, the sun had gone down and it was too windy to risk any more rafting. As we staggered to the shore, towards the hot dal bhat tarkari and a steaming mug of Mustang Coffee – more rum than coffee - waiting for us to help us warm up, I’m sure I wasn’t the only one very tired but still very exhilarated about having actually rafted down the Trisuli River. And as we bundled up on our bus in the evening to return home after a brief stay at the gorgeous Riverside Resort, the feeling of camaraderie and pleasure, of adventure and triumph at our shared adventure lingered in the air…

DOOR PRIZES SPONSORS:

BUDDHA AIR• (complimentary mountain flight for 1)

FISTAIL LODGE, POKHARA •(overnight for two with bb)

BAKERY CAFÉ •(meal voucher)

ISLAND JUNGLE RESORT •(over night for 2)

RADISSON •(meal voucher)

PRANA SPA •(spa for 2)

The “Holi Raft” is just one of the exciting events Yeti Travel and Tours organizes each month. Future plans include a Golf challenge and a roping competition too.

HOlI rafT

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Think mountaineering and you think ‘thrilling’, dangerous and then inevitably, ‘Sherpas’. Hardy and experienced veterans of the highest altitudes, Sherpas are renowned in the international climbing and mountaineering community. It has been specu-lated that a part of the Sherpas’ climbing ability is the result of a genetic adaptation to living in high altitudes. The link between Sherpas and mountain climbing has become so ubiquitous that it is perfectly apt to name an outdoor adventure gear enterprise after these heroes of mountaineering.

Inspired by the many unsung Sherpa heroes of Everest, Sherpa Adventure Gear aims to create dependable and outstanding out-door clothing. With their unique line of clothing one can glimpse into Sherpa culture and their way of life. Although a small com-pany, they strongly believe in having a testing phase for their products, especially expedition the gear. The gear is tested in the rugged condition of the Himala-yas and then altered according to

feedback. Sometimes the product needs to go through numerous ex-peditions before being launched in the market. All of the products are designed and developed with the help of Sherpa athletes who are paid a royalty based on sales. In a positive note, Sherpa Adven-ture Gear has partnered with Al-pine Ascents to donate up to $.50 for every item sold to The Sherpa Education Fund in the Khumbu region.

Whether you’re trekking around Europe, prepping to climb Ever-est, or just heading out for a hike close to home, the complete line of base layers, travel cloth-ing, shells and winter-worthy insulation will literally have you covered. You don’t have to be a Sherpa to survive in extreme environments; you just need the right clothing. Sherpa Adventure Gear uses the latest technologies like intelligent moisture man-agement fabric, sustainable and odor-repellent bamboo charcoal, and eco-friendly itch-free merino wool to make clothing you’ll be comfortable in for days on end.

Until recently, outdoorsy wom-en had to put up with wearing bulky, oversized men’s clothing to get the technical functionality they craved but thankfully, every piece of Sherpa Adventure Gear women’s wear is made with the same fabrics and features as men’s clothing, but designed to fit a woman’s body. Apart from men and women’s wear, Sherpa also has a wide range of bags, hats and sleeping bags. 90% of the produc-tion is done in Kathmandu. All of their products have a life time warranty. A new outlet of Sherpa Adventure Gear is soon to open in March at Namche.

Much like having your very own Sherpa guide, you can count on every piece to be there for you—wherever your adventures take you.

“Each season we grow. But at the core we

will always be a small company with a simple

vision of doing business in the inimitable way of

the Sherpas; one step at a time, helping each other on the climb up,

and never losing sight of the destination,”

-tsedo Sherpa,Vice President

Inspired by the many

unsung Sherpa heroes of

everest, Sherpa Adventure gear

aims to create dependable

and outstanding

outdoor clothing.

sherPAAdventure geAr

For more details:

www.sherpaadventuregear.com

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Text by dr. Ravi Shankar

Photos by dr. Ravi Shankar, dr. Ashutosh bodhe & dr. bimantha Perera

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Sagarmathanational park

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My friends spent a freezing night huddled together in their tents at the foot of Kala Pathar (Black Rock), a famous view point for Mt. Everest in the Sagarmatha Nation-al Park of Eastern Nepal. They had set out from Gorak Shep at about four in the evening. The number of people volunteering to spend a night with flimsy protection in such arctic conditions steadily de-clined as the evening progressed. At the end only five brave souls set out led by my friend and an intrep-id traveler - Dr. Bodhe. They were planning to capture the full moon rising above Mt. Everest. The black rock glistening in the silver moon-light with the snow giants dozing peacefully in the night’s stillness promised to be a sight to be trea-sured for the rest of one’s life.

The mercury dipped below minus 20°C at night and the photogra-phers passed a frigid night, burning camphor in an attempt to beat the cold. Overcome by the cold they dozed off and by the time they got up, the moon was already high up in the sky. The magical moment had passed. Dr. Bodhe later told me that he bitterly regretted miss-ing an opportunity of a lifetime. The spirit was willing but the body was weak!

Early the next morning, at around four, we set off to capture the sun-rise on Everest from atop Kala Pathar. The black rock had a thin coating of ice and the temperature was fifteen below zero. I soon be-gan losing all sensation in my toes and fingers. My body started shiv-

ering in a vain attempt to gener-ate heat. The Sri Lankans in our group unfurled their flag and had a small ceremony to celebrate hav-ing reached so far. The summit of Kala Pathar loomed challengingly above us. We retreated back to the safety and warmth of our lodge. On a later visit, I made it to the summit of Kala Pathar (5545 m) the high-est I have ever been, accompanied by my good friend, Dr. Anup on a balmy winter afternoon.

We were a large group of fourteen people with members from Nepal, India and Sri Lanka. Our flight to Lukla aboard a Yeti Airlines Twin Otter had been repeatedly delayed and it was only after two in the af-ternoon when we finally landed. Lukla airport is risky to land on with a very short runway. It’s safe to say that your life is literally in the hands of your pilot! The airport was created by Sir Edmund Hil-lary who also played an important role in convincing the Nepalese government to establish the Sagar-matha National park and the gov-ernment of New Zealand to fund and support it.

SAgARMAthA NAtIoNAl PARk

Sagarmatha National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site which contains some of the highest mountains on earth. In addition to Everest (8848 m) it also encompasses Lhotse (8516 m) and Cho Oyu (8188 m). The park was created in 1976 and was designated a natural world heritage site in 1979. Barren land above 5000m forms 69% of the park. In the lower forested zone, one can find flora such as birch, juniper, blue pines, firs, bamboo and rhododendron. Only dwarf shrubs are found above this zone. As the altitude increases further, plant life is restricted to lichens and mosses At least 118 species of birds, including the Himalayan Monal, blood pheasant and yellow-billed choughs are found. The park is also home to a number of rare animal species including the musk deer, wild yak, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear and red panda.

The area is dominated by the Sherpa people (people of the east) who migrated to this region from eastern Tibet over 400 years ago. Sherpa people are predominantly Buddhists and are world famous as having much expertise in mountaineering.

loCAtIoN: Solu-Khumbu District of the Sagarmatha Zone

FeAtURe: UNESCO World Heritage Site (Listed In Year 1979 )

AReA: 1,148 sq. km.

Lowest point of 2,845 m (9,335 ft) at Jorsalle to 8,850 m (29,035 ft) at the summit of Everest.

oUR ReSIdeNt doCtoR WRIteS

AboUt A joURNey to the

SPeCtACUlAR SAgARMAthA

NAtIoNAl PARk, hoMe to SoMe

oF the hIgheSt MoUNtAINS oN

eARth.

The spectacular and tricky Lukla airport

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Shortly after landing and after a tasty lunch at the Sunny Garden Lodge, we arranged porters and slowly set off. We were planning to spend the night at Phakding, (2600 m) a pleasant spot on the banks of the Dudh Koshi (Milk River). The initial part of the trek was along the Dudh Koshi valley. The going was hard, the hour late and we even-tually settled for the night at the Lama Lodge in the large village of Ghat. We were tired and after a dinner of dal-bhat-tarkari (lentil soup-rice-vegetables) with sumptu-ous and fresh green vegetables, we dozed off easily.

The next day was to be a long and tiring one as we were climbing to Namche Bazaar (3400 m), the unofficial capital of Sherpa land. Our plans to start early the next morning were foiled by a little over-enthusiastic photography by my friend Bodhe. By the time we

set out it was after nine. We had an early lunch at Monjo, the entrance to the park and finally started climbing again. Halfway through the climb we had our first glimpse of Everest and the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. Everest was clouded over. The sun hid behind a cloud bank and the weather became distinctly chilly. By the time we reached the outskirts of Namche it was after three. The town was teeming with trekkers and rooms were scarce. After repeated disappointments, we got lucky at the Ama Dablam lodge.

The lodge is in the center of Nam-che, a collection of lodges and houses set in a hemispherical val-ley. The next morning there were superb views of Kwangde which turned golden in the warm glow of the rising sun. After breakfast and the by now usual round of pho-tography by Bodhe, we set off on

our acclimatization day hike. We planned to climb up to the airstrip at Syangboche (3900 m), visit the three star-rated Everest View Hotel and return. The boche in Syang-boche means ‘a flat land seen from a hilltop’. There are a number of boches in the Everest region as people generally settled where ara-ble land was available. The airstrip constructed to ferry high paying tourists to the luxury Everest hotel was out of use during our visit. At present Tara Air, a subsidiary of Yeti Air conducts regular flights to Syangboche. Tea at the Everest view in the company of Himalayan

giants like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam was a delightful ex-perience. Carried away with the views, it became cloudy and cold by the time we returned.

Our next day’s halt was the ham-let of Deboche below Tengbo-che. From there we set off to the settlement of Dingboche. The landscape was changing slowly and was becoming increasingly rocky and barren. It was T-shirt weather under the harsh sun even with a stiff wind beginning to blow our way. Many tourists prefer to stay in Dingboche as it gets more

TravelOGUe

teA At the eveReSt vIeW IN the CoMPANy oF hIMAlAyAN gIANtS lIke eveReSt, NUPtSe, lhotSe, AMA dAblAM WAS A delIghtFUl exPeRIeNCe.

Spectacular Namche bazaar

Nuptse, Everest, the Nuptse-Lhotse wall and Lhotse

Tempting goodies on display at a bakery in Namche

Sunrise on Ama Dablam

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afternoon sun and is thus warmer than Pheriche. Dingboche was our second acclimatization halt. I was having a slight headache and was worried about altitude sickness having heard and read so much about it. The nexy day, we set off on a hike to Chukung along the Imja Khola valley. Chukung (4734 m) is a small collection of lodges among glacial debris. Upon reach-ing there, we had a Sherpa delicacy - Rigi Kur (thick potato pancakes) and enjoyed magnificent views of Ama Dablam. This photogenic mountain like Machapuchhre, which lies to the north of Pokhara valley shows different perspectives from different locations.

Our stay for the night was arranged at Pheriche’s Himalayan Hotel owned by Nuru Sherpa. Over my many visits to the Khumbu region, Nuru had become a good friend. The rooms at his hotel were taste-

fully decorated and the dining area was warm and cozy. Nuru has also recently built a luxury lodge at Pheriche. The place is damp and cold, yet strangely beautiful. It also has the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) aid post. We were given a tour the next day by a Welsh volunteer doctor. I would meet him again two years later while doing a research project.

From Pheriche, it is a four hour trek to Dughla. We stayed at a small lodge run by Tashi Tsering, the first Sherpa to summit Everest twice with two different expedi-tions on two consecutive days. In the Khumbu region, there are peo-ple who have summited Everest so frequently that it starts to sound like they’re walking to the market. When the weather turned bad that afternoon, I was huddled under a quilt trying vainly to think of warm beaches and the tropical sun. Soon

a few snowflakes started drifting down. Our Sri Lankan friends were elated. They had never seen snow before and started dancing in the snow storm. The ground was soon blanketed in thick white snow.

The lodges were getting increas-ingly crowded and we had to reach early to be assured of a place to sleep. Next morning we decided to split the group into two. My student Vishal and I would race ahead to try and book a lodge at Gorak Shep (5100 m). Bodhe would concentrate on his pho-tography and lead the rest up. We started climbing the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier soon. En route were two distinctly differently monuments – one was a monument to climbers who had lost their lives on Everest and the other a sculpture commemorating successful climbs atop Everest just in front of the HRA aid post. The

lodge at Gorak Shep was surpris-ingly comfortable for such a high altitude. Our staple was fast be-coming Shakpa (Sherpa Stew) a thick and nourishing soup made of vegetables, potato, chunks of meat and whatever else was available!

Next morning after climbing Kala Pathar (only some of us were up to it) and enjoying Everest up close we started back. We flew back from Lukla and were soon among the hustle and bustle of traffic in Kathmandu. After so many days of peace and quiet, it took quite some time to adapt. Dr. Bodhe was all for going straight away on another trek and leave civilization as we know it far, far behind! I was left thinking if in the race for more material possessions and wealth we had somehow lost our very soul.

Trekkers on the way to Dughla1. Mountain panorama2. The lodges of Chukung3. Mt. Everest from Kala Pathar4.

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Text by Utsav ShakyaPhotos by Suresh Maharjan (travel times) & Rocky Prajapati

Kathmandu is the rightful cultural capital of the country with seven of the ten UNESCO World Heritage Sites falling in the valley. Read on to find out what makes these sites so special.

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Of all the words that have been used to describe Kathmandu, the word ‘boring’ will never make it

to the list. The place is just so happening. Politically, as the country goes through the most volatile time in its history, Kath-mandu looks on, witness to the change. Culturally, like all great cities around the world, Kathmandu too grows and changes and moves slowly away from what it used to be. A concrete invasion is all too obvi-ous in the ‘town of temples’. Kathmandu Valley - the melting pot of all major cul-tures in Nepal - went through many ruling dynasties and the whims and fancies of its many kings. As a result of this, today there are innumerable monuments and temples

that stand as testament to the rich art and architectural scene of those days. Some of these have been preserved well while oth-ers have fared badly with time. Tourism wise, Kathmandu sees increasing numbers of visitorss each year. Most come for the amazing trekking trips that Nepal offers. Others don’t even travel outside Kathman-du, reveling in the city’s sights and sounds. Kathmandu ends up as a rather unfair representation of the entire country for a lot of these tourists. But while the city’s crammed hoarding boards and unbeliev-able traffic jams hardly showcase Nepal in the best light, there are several reasons people fall in love with Kathmandu.

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According to mythology, Kathmandu Valley was said to have been a huge lake that was drained by Bodhisatva Manjush-ri. The land was very fertile and people moved here for its cultivable land. Nepal was then divided into many small coun-tries which were ruled by separate kings. Kathmandu was ruled over time by a string of small and large dynasties, all of which seemed to have one thing in common – their passion for art and architecture and a religious bent. Perhaps with the need to satiate their burgeoning egos, these rulers tried outdoing their predecessors with the many temples and monuments that we see spread out over Kathmandu Valley. With the annexation of the smaller countries into one Nepal, Kathmandu was chosen as the capital of the country and was divided into three cities - Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Lalitpur.

Religious monuments such as the Swoy-ambhunath stupa or the Pashupatinath temple represent an important pillar of Nepali society - religion. Others such as the three Durbar Squares of the valley’s three cities and their awe inspiring design and sheer beauty, are testament to the cul-tural capital that Kathmandu is. The amaz-ing architecture combined with their rich history makes them unique features, defi-nitely worth the adulation they get from art, history and architecture enthusiasts. But we took it all for granted and let time and nature do its worst to many of these important structures.

UNESCO’s announcement of Kathman-du as a collective World Heritage Site with seven noted sub-sites has played a huge role in the preservation and promotion of these places. The country joined UNES-CO on May 1, 1953.

For a small city like Kathmandu to have seven heritage sites is quite a boon. It gives Kathmandu a very unique advantage over other cities in the region. The listing itself adds a whole new dimension to the number of tourists interested in visiting the country.

Sadly, due to negligence on the part of those concerned to keep up with UNSECO standards of preservation, Ne-pal was taken off the UNSESCO heritage site list once. Now that it’s listed again with many other new spots in and outside the valley en route to making it to the list, the tourism industry should make hay while the sun shines. Travel Times takes a look at these seven marvels of the valley and tries to understand what is it that qualifies them to be called World Heritage Sites. The Kathmandu Valley, inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979, is the object of a vast safeguarding endeavor. At the crossroads of the great civilizations of Asia, the site harbors some 130 Hindu and Bud-dhist monuments exemplifying Nepalese art at its peak.

bhAktAPUR dURbAR SqUARe

thIMI

AIRPoRt

bUdhANIlkANthA

SURyA bINAyAk

bAjRA yogINIgokARNA

SUNdARIjAl

bAlAjU

bUNgAMAtI

lUbhU

hARISIddhI

bAlAMbU

kIRtIPUR

ChobAR

khokANA

ChANgU NARAyANPAShUPAtINAth

boUddhANAth

kAthMANdUdURbAR SqUARe

PAtAN dURbAR SqUARe

SWAyAMbhUNAth

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With structures that date as far back as the 4th century, Changu Narayan is perhaps the best kept secret/treasure trove of ancient artwork that combines tales from Hindu epics to Nepal’s former royalties.

CHaNgU NarayaN Location : 22 km from Kathmandu Importance : Oldest temple in Kathmandu valley Built in : 4th century A.D. Devoted to : Hindu Lord ShivaMajor Attraction : Vishnu image with ten heads and ten arms

Quick Facts

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who transformed into a giant capable of crossing the universe in three steps during his defeat of king Bali. To the side of these images is a small black slab showing a 10-headed and 10-armed Vishnu, with Ananta reclining on a serpent below. The scenes are divided into three sections - the underworld, the mortal world and the heavens. The beautifully carved image is around 1500 years old.

In the northwestern corner there is a 7th-century

The beautiful and historic temple of Changu Narayan stands on a hilltop at the eastern end of the valley, about 6 km north of Bhaktapur and 22km from Kathmandu. It dates back to 1702, when it was rebuilt after a fire. Its origins however go back to the 4th century with many stone sculptures in the premises dating to the Lichhavi period (4th

to 9th centuries). Despite the temple’s beauty, easy access from Bhaktapur and the proximity of some fine walks nearby, it attracts relatively few visitors.

The one street of Changu village leads up from the car park past a central pilgrim shelter, water tank and Ganesha shrine, before ascending past thang-ka and wooden mask shops to the temple entrance. The double-roofed temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his incarnation as Narayan and is exceptionally beautiful, with intricate roof struts depicting multi-armed Tantric deities. It is fronted on the west side by a kneeling figure of Garuda said to date to the 5th century. The man-bird mount of Vishnu has a snake around his neck and kneels with hands in the Namaste position facing the temple. Stone lions guard the wonderfully gilded door, which is flanked by equally detailed gilded windows. Two pillars at the front corners carry a conch and disc, the traditional symbols of Vishnu. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple itself, which is nor-mally shut and open only for special occasions.

The temple’s true gems are the wonderful, much older sculptures that dot the courtyard. In the south-west corner are several notable images, including one of Vishnu as Narsingha, his man-lion incarna-tion, disemboweling a demon. Another one shows him as Vikrantha-Vamana, the six-armed dwarf

34 | cOverstorY - Changu narayan

The double-roofed temple

is dedicated to Vishnu in his

incarnation as Narayan and

is exceptionally beautiful, with

intricate roof struts depicting

multi-armed Tantric deities.

An idol of a lion, which is 1. said to be the protector of bad spirits entering the temple

Aerial v2. iew of Changu Narayan (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

A 5th century idol of 3. Garuda in front of the west side of temple dated.

1 2

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image of Vishnu astride the Garuda. In front of the Garuda figure that faces the front of the temple is the oldest stone inscription in the valley, dating from 464 AD. The inscription is in Sanskrit and describes how the king persuaded his mother not to commit sati (ritual suicide) after his father’s death. Also interest-ing are the statues of King Bhupatindra Malla and his queen, kneeling in a gilded cage in front of the temple. Also worth noticing is the use of triangular bricks in the centre of the courtyard while out to-wards the edges are older, rounded-corner bricks.

| 35cOverstorY - Changu narayan

Superb architecture from the 5th Century in Changu Narayan which says volumes about the impressive art scene of those days.

What to do: The sculptures are one of a kind here, most dating back hundreds of years. After exploring the area, enjoy a short nature walk in the area and visit some traditional villages along the way.

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Quick Facts

The very reason for the existence of the valley, Swoyambhu stands tall today as one of the most popular Buddhist places of worship in the country.

SWOyamBHUNaTH

ry Swoyambhu Purana, tells of a miraculous lotus, planted by a past Buddha, which blossomed from the lake that once covered Kathmandu valley. The lotus mysteriously radiated a brilliant light, and the name of the place came to be Swoyambhu, mean-ing self-created or self-existent. Saints, sages and di-vinities traveled to the lake to venerate this miracu-lous light for its power in granting enlightenment.

During this time, the aforementioned Manjushri was meditating at the sacred mountain of Wu Tai Shan and had a vision of the dazzling Swoyambhu

Swoyambhunath sits atop a wooded hill, with more monkeys than people and more people than hous-es. It is arguably the most ancient and enigmatic of all the holy shrines in Kathmandu valley. Its lofty white dome and glittering golden spire are visible for many miles and from all sides of the valley. His-torical records found on a stone inscription prove that the stupa was already an important Buddhist pilgrimage destination by the 5th century AD. Its origins however, date to a much earlier time, long before the arrival of Buddhism into the valley. A collection of legends about the site, the 15th centu-

Prayer Wheel - A symbol of Buddhism

Location : 3 km from Central Kathmandu

Built in : 5th century A.D.

Devoted to : Lord Buddha

Major Attractions : 365 steps to reach the Stupa, The

Stupa, Palace of Peace, Harati

Temple

Believed to be self-created, hence named Swoyambhu

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ing perspective. There is no nose between the eyes but rather a representation of the Nepali numerical one, signifying that the only way to enlightenment is through the Buddhist path. Above each pair of eyes is the third eye, signifying the wisdom of look-ing within. No ears are shown because it is said that the Buddha is not interested in hearing prayers in his praise.

Surrounded by chaityas, temples, painted images of deities and numerous other religious objects, the stupa also has many small shrines with statues of Tantric and shamanistic deities, prayer wheels for the Tibetan Buddhists, Shiva lingams (now disguised as Buddhist chaityas and decorated with the faces of the Dhyani Buddhas), and a popular Hindu temple dedicated to Harati, the Goddess of smallpox and other epidemics. The presence of the Harati Devi temple signifies the intermingling of the pantheons of Hinduism and Buddhism in the development of the religious trends of Nepal.

light. The deity flew across the mountains of China and Tibet upon his blue lion to worship the lotus. Deeply impressed by the power of the radiant light, he felt that if the water were drained out of the lake, Swoyambhu would become more accessible to human pilgrims. With a great sword Manjushri cut a gorge in the mountains surrounding the lake. The water drained away, leaving the valley that is present day Kathmandu. The lotus was then trans-formed into a hill and the light became the Swoy-ambhunath Stupa.

Swoyambhunath’s worshippers include Hindus, Vajrayana Buddhists of northern Nepal and Tibet, and the Newar Buddhists of central and southern Nepal. Each morning before dawn, hundreds of pilgrims ascend the 365 steps that lead up the hill, file past the gilded Vajra (Tibetan - Dorje) and two lions guarding the entrance, and begin a series of clockwise circumambulations of the stupa. The four pairs of big eyes are symbolic of god’s all-see-

What to do: The best time to visit Swayambhunath is in the day to notice all its details. But late in the evening when the place is lit up with spotlights and oil lamps, is when the stupa really shines, literally. Stay back on a day visit till when the lights come up and enjoy the calm here.

Special bonus: The hill top is the best viewing spot for the city’s night lights.

Aerial v1. iew of Swoyambhunath (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

Group of different stupas, 2. one of the attractions of Swoyambhunath

A monastery near the 3. stupa

Harati Temple, a Hindu 4. temple at the Buddhist site

The presence of the Harati Devi temple signifies the intermingling of the pantheons of Hinduism and Buddhism in the development of the religious trends of Nepal.

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Pashupatinath is the ultimate destination for Hindus all over the world. And they have good reason to think so. Its history and location all make for a wonderful visit that allows mythology to come alive.

PaSHUPaTiNaTH

cOverstorY - paShupatinath

Location : 5 km east of Kathmandu

Importanct Fact : Most important cremation place/

one of the oldest temples in

Nepal

Built in : 5th century A.D.

Devoted to : Lord Shiva

Architecture Style: Pagoda Style

Quick Facts

hostile avatar of Shiva as the cruel and destructive Bhairab. Shiva also has peaceful avatars. Accord-ing to a legend recorded in local texts, especially the Nepalamahatmya and the Himavatkhanda, the Hindu god Shiva once fled from the other gods in Varanasi to Mrigasthali, the forest on the opposite bank of the Bagmati River from the temple. There, in the form of a gazelle, he slept with his consort Parvati. When the gods discovered him there and tried to bring him back to Varanasi, he leapt across the river to the opposite bank, where one of his horns broke into four pieces. After this, Shiva be-came manifest as Pashupati (lord of animals) in a four-face (chaturmukha) linga.

Nepal’s most important Hindu temple (admission Rs 250 for non Nepalese) stands on the banks of the holy Bagmati River, on the eastern fringes of Kath-mandu. One of the most important Shiva temples on the subcontinent, it draws Shiva’s devotees in the millions during major Hindu festivals. Also in presence during these festivals without a miss are Shiva’s faithful sadhus, holy ascetic men, enjoying a hit of marijuana, a favorite of the deity who is popular for two things, his anger issues and his love for the ‘recreational’ drug.

Hindus know Lord Shiva as the destroyer and creator of the Hindu pantheon. He is also feared in his ‘terrible’ avataars. In Nepal, we know this

Shiva Linga - Idol of Lord Shiva

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the temple courtyard is the small pagoda temple of Vasuki, the King of the Nagas. Vasuki has the form of a Naga (mythical snake) from the waist up-wards, while the lower parts are an intricate tangle of snakes’ bodies. According to local belief, Vasuki took up residence here in order to protect Pashupa-ti. One can often see devotees circumambulating and worshipping Vasuki before entering the main sanctum.

The Bagmati River, which runs next to Pashapu-tinath Temple, has highly sacred properties. The banks are lined with many ghats (bathing spots) for use by pilgrims. Renovating or furnishing these sites has always been regarded as meritorious.

Arya Ghat, dating from the early 1900s, is of spe-cial importance because it is the only place where pure water for Pashupatinath Temple can be ob-tained. The main cremation site is Bhasmeshvar Ghat, which is the most used cremation site in the Kathmandu Valley. Across the Bagmati River are 15 votive shrines, the Pandra Shivalaya, which were built to enshrine lingas in memory of deceased per-sons between 1859 and 1869.

The temple stands in the center of the town of Deopatan, in the middle of an open courtyard. On both sides of each door of the temple are niches of various sizes containing gold-painted images of guardian deities. Inside the temple and around the sanctum is a narrow ambulatory. The sanctum contains a one-meter high linga with four faces (chaturmukha) representing Pashupati, as well as images of Vishnu, Surya, Devi and Ganesh.

The struts under the roofs, from the late 17th cen-tury, are decorated with wood carvings of members of Shiva’s family such as Parvati, Ganesh, Kumar, Yoginis as well as Hanuman, Ram, Sita, Lakshman and other gods and goddesses from the Hindu epic Ramayana.The temple’s extensive grounds include many other old and important temples, shrines and statues. South of the temple, for instance, is Chadeshvar - an inscribed Lichhavi linga from the 7th century and Dharmashila, a stone where sacred oaths are taken, and pillars with statues of various Shah kings.

On the northern side of the temple is a 9th-cen-tury temple of Brahma. In the northeast corner of

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Aerial view of Pashupatinath (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

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In & Around PaSHUPaTiNaTH

cOverstorY - paShupatinath

What to do: If possible, visit the temple during the Hindu festival of Shiva Ratri to experience the maddening reverie that Pashupatinath commands. On other days, enjoy the superb architecture of the temple and peace of the cremation area by the river and the forests across the river where Shiva was believed to have lived disguised as a deer.

Path between 1. Guheshwori and Pashupatinath temples

A unique avatar of 2. Vishnu

Sadhus around 3. Pashupatinath (photo by

Gregor Younger)

Virupakshya4.

Pandra Shivalaya - 15 5. small temples of Lord Shiva in a row.

Gorakhnath and 6. Vishworup Temples

A deer in nearby 7. Slesmantak Forest

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6 7

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On the eastern side of Kathmandu, just north of the airport and around 6 km from the tourists hub of Thamel, is Bouddhanath (admission for foreign-ers/SAARC Rs 50/20), home to one of the world’s largest stupas. The area is known as Boudha and is the religious centre for Nepal’s considerable popula-tion of Tibetan exiles. The side streets are full of maroon-robed Tibetans (and foreign) monks, gleaming monastery roofs and shop-fronts full of Tibetan texts and yak butter.

This is one of the few places in the world where Tibetan culture is acces-sible, vibrant and unfettered. Boud-dhanath has always been linked to Tibetan Buddhism and Lhasa. A major

trade route coming from Lhasa went through Sankhu, and Bouddhanath therefore lies at the Tibetan traders’ entry to Kathmandu. One can eas-ily imagine the traders giving thanks for their successful journey across the Himalaya, or praying for a safe return. People, including mountaineers and Sherpas, still come here to pray before undertaking a journey in the Himala-yas.

From a height, Bouddhanth Stupa looks like a giant mandala - a diagram of the Buddhist cosmos. And as in all Tibetan mandalas, four of the Dhyani Buddhas mark the cardinal points, with the fifth, Vairocana, enshrined in the center (in the white hemisphere of the

With every little detail of the stupa having profound meaning, Bouddhanath is somewhere you can lose yourself for hours. amidst the hustle and bustle of community life here, is a strange aura of peace.

BOUDDHaNaTH

cOverstorY - bouddhanath

Location : 7 km east of Kathmandu

Built in : 4th century A.D.

Devoted to : Lord Buddha

Also known as : Yambu Chorten Chenpo

Important Fact : Biggest stupa in Nepal

The whole structure has a diameter of about

100 meters and a height of approximate

40 meters.

Quick Facts

Tibetan Prayer Wheel

Aerial view of Bouddhanath (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

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earth. Next are two circular plinths supporting the hemisphere of the stupa, symbolizing water. As in Swoyambhunath, Bouddhanath is topped with a square tower bearing the omnipresent Buddha eyes on all four sides.The square tower is topped by a pyramid with 13 steps, representing the ladder to enlightenment. The triangular shape is the abstract form for the element of fire. At the top of the tower is a gilded canopy embodying air and above it is a gilded spire, symbolic of ether and the Buddha Vai-rocana. Prayer flags tied to the stupa flutter in the wind, carrying mantras and prayers heavenward.

Late afternoon is a good time to visit Bouddhanath, when the group tours depart and the place once again becomes a Tibetan village. Prayer services are held in the surrounding gompas and, as the sun sets, the community turns out to pray at the stupa - a ritual that combines religious observance with social event. It’s a wonderful feeling to be swept around by the centrifugal force of faith - remember to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction.

stupa). The five Buddhas also personify the five el-ements (earth, water, fire, air and ether) and are represented in the stupa’s architecture.

There are other symbolic numbers here as well: - the nine levels of Boudhanath Stupa represent the mythical Mt. Meru, center of the cosmos and the 13 rings from the base to the pinnacle symbolize the path to enlightenment or ‘Bodhi’ — which gives the stupa its name.

The stupa is surrounded by an irregular 16-sided wall at the bottom, with frescoes in the niches. In addition to the five Dhyani Buddhas, the stupa is closely associated with the Bodhisattva Avalokitesh-vara (Padmapani), whose 108 forms are depicted in sculptures around the base. The mantra of Avalokiteshvara - Om Mani Padme Hum - is carved on the prayer wheels beside the images of Avalokiteshvara around the base of the stupa.

At the base of the stupa are three large platforms, decreasing in size. These platforms symbolize the

it’s a wonderful feeling to be

swept around by the centrifugal force of faith -

remember to walk around the stupa

in a clockwise direction.

What to do: Visit the area early in the morning

or late in the evening to enjoy the

serenity of the place. Get a meal

or some Nepali tea at any of the

new restaurants across from the

stupa and try thinking about how

the place would have looked like

decades ago as an entry point for

Tibetan traders.

2

Front face of 1. Bouddhanath

A monastery in 2. Bouddhanath

A artistic mandala on 3. the ceiling

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With its famed 55 window palace and serene environment, spending time in Bhaktapur Durbar Square will give you a taste of life in ancient Nepal.

BHaKTaPUr DUrBar SqUarE

Location : 13 km east of Kathmandu Architecture Style: Assortment of Shikar and Pagoda Style Major Attractions : The Lion Gate, The Golden Gate,

The Palace of Fifty Five Windows, The Art Gallery, The Statue of King Bhupatindra Malla

Quick Facts

ties looking out from their sanctuaries, the wood carvings in every place - struts, lintels, tympanums, gateways and windows - all seem to form a well orchestrated symphony.

The square is full of not to be missed places. The Lion Gate is a massive gate that dates back to 1696 AD. It is guarded by two huge statues of lions at either side. The dreadful stone image of Lord Shiva and a fearful im-age of Ugrachandi stand out. The Golden Gate is said by many to be the most beautiful and richly molded specimen of its kind in

Bhaktapur or Bhadgaun as the old folk call the place is perhaps the best preserved old world heritage site in the country. Both because of it’s out of the way location from Kathmandu city and owed to the incredible preservation work in the area, Bhaktapur retains the very air of the old days. Its dur-bar square is an assortment of pagoda and shikhara-style temples grouped around a fifty-five-window palace of brick and wood. The square is part of a charming valley as it highlights the idols of ancient kings perched on top of stone monoliths, the guardian dei-

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Bhupatendra Malla. It was dedicated to Siddhilaxmi, the tantric goddess of su-preme power. Nyatapola in Newari means a five tiered structure symbolizing five ba-sic elements - water, earth, fire, wind and sky. Also on display is a Pashupati temple built by a Shiva devotee who lived in the area. The devotee was apparently asked by Lord Shiva to make this temple. Another temple worth a visit is the stone Vatsala Temple, from the 17th century, dedicated to a mother goddess, which is full of intri-cate stone work.

fifty-five windows, considered a unique masterpiece of woodcarving. The Art Gal-lery contains ancient paintings belonging to the Hindu and Buddhist traditions of various periods and descriptions and is particularly famous among researchers on Hinduism and Buddhism. Also popular is a statue of King Bhupendra Malla in the act of worship. It is located on a column facing the palace.

Arguably the most famous pagoda in Ne-pal, Nyatapola was built in 1702 A.D by

the entire world. The door demonstrates superb craftsmanship depicting monsters and mythical creatures. It was erected dur-ing the reign of King Ranjit Malla and is the entrance to the main courtyard of the fifty-five windows palace.

The palace itself was built during the reign of King Yakshay Malla in 1427 and was subsequently remodeled by King Bhupat-indra Malla in the 17th century. Among the brick walls with their gracious setting and sculptural design, is a balcony with

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Both because of it’s out of the

way location from Kathmandu

city and owed to the incredible

preservation work in the area, Bhaktapur retains the very air of the

old days.

Aerial v1. iew of Bhaktapur Durbar Square (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

A day shot of Bhaktapur Durbar Square 2.

A stone sculpture of Vishnu over Garuda3.

An inspiring architecture - Golden gate Torana with 4. Garuda and Taleju Bhavani

Nyatapola - 5 tiered temple5.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square, sparkling in night6.

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2

4

6

5

What to do: The square is the best preserved out of the three squares of the valley. Take some amazing postcard perfect photographs of the area and of yourself while going around. This is a place you want to write home about! Also, feast on the very popular milk curd(Juju Dhau) of Bhaktapur, good for cooling off on warm days and also for digestion.

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Kathmandu’s Durbar Square was where the city’s kings were once crowned and legitimized, and from where they ruled (durbar is Nepali for palace). As such, the square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular lega-cy of traditional architecture. After the palace was shifted to Narayanhity, which is now a museum, the old palace was cordoned off for official use. The sur-rounding area however is open to the public making it a wonderful coming together of a heritage site with the everyday life of the thousands who go through there every day. Part vegetable market, part tour-ist hub for its small knick knacks, it’s easy to spend hours wandering around the square and watching the world go by from the terraced platforms of the towering Maiju Deval. From this perched location, the chaos of the traffic in the area somehow has a sense of peace and purpose, their collective hullaba-

loo bouncing off the white washed walls of the old palace.

Although most of the square dates from the 17th and 18th centuries (many of the original buildings are much older), a great deal of damage was caused by a large earthquake in 1934. Many structures were rebuilt, but not always in their original form.

The Durbar Square area is actually made up of three loosely linked squares. To the south is the open Bas-antapur area, which runs into Freak Street, an old, popular tourist destination frequented by hippies back in the 70’s. There is the main Durbar Square area, with its popular terraced temples to the west. Running northeast is a second part of the square, which contains the entrance to the Hanuman Dho-ka and an assortment of temples. From this open

This is where community life meets a heritage site in a rich coming together that celebrates Nepal’s artistic history in the most wonderful yet simple way.

KaTHmaNDUDUrBar SqUarE

cOverstorY - kathmandu | 49

Location : Central Kathmandu

Important Fact : Coronation site for former royalty

Major Attractions : Taleju Temple, Mahendreshvara

Temple, Jagannath Temple,

Hanuman Dhoka, Nasal Chowk,

Kasthamandapa, Ashok Binayak

Shrine

Quick Facts

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area Makhan Tole - at one time the main road in Kathmandu and still the most interesting street to walk down - continues northeast. A good place to start an exploration of the square is with what may well be the oldest building in the valley, the unprepossessing Kasthamandap, supposedly built out of the wood from a single tree.

The entry ticket to Durbar Sqaure is valid only for the date stamped. If you want a longer dura-tion you need to go to the site office (4268969; opening hours 07:00 - 19:00) on the south side of Basantapur Square, to get a free visitor’s pass, which allows you access for as long as your visa is valid. You will need your passport and one photo and the process takes about two minutes.

The square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular legacy of traditional architecture.

What to do: Climb atop the terraced Maiju Deval temple with a cup of tea, brewing at its base at the busiest hour of the day and enjoy the chaos of life in the old town. Leave your iPod and travel guide at home. Lose yourself here.

1, 2. Wide shots of Kathmandu Durbar Square

3. Taleju Temple

4. Nautalle Durbar (Nine storyed palace)

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patan Durbar

Square

Location : 5 km east of Kathmandu

Importance : good specimen of ancient Newari

architecture.

Major Attractions : Krishna temple with 21 golden

pinnacles, Mul Chowk, Sundari

Chowk, Keshav Narayan Chowk

Quick Facts

monuments and temples are literally crammed into this Durbar Square. Linger here and feel the ‘breath of centuries’.

could be found in such great density? Patan Dur-bar Square is one such wonder. Bhaktapur’s Dur-bar Square is preserved almost like a museum with only minimal activity inside the square and a large part of Kathmandu’s Durbar Square is cordoned off for official use by the state. Patan’s Durbar Square is unique in that it’s temples and the grand palace

No other site demonstrates everyday lives merged into the heritage site as well as Patan’s Durbar Square. Tourists in Nepal will find themselves utterly awestruck by the exceptional grouping of palaces, shrines, monuments and temples in Patan Durbar Square. Who would have thought that so many buildings of historical and religious value

PaTaN DUrBar SqUarE

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Some of Nepal’s top sights and architectural feats are located in close proximity to each oth-er at this famed Durbar Square. The square is loosely designed around a former royal palace. Surrounding the intricately designed palace of are numerous temples, all exquisite examples of Newari architecture. Patan Durbar Square boasts of three courtyards, known locally as chowks. These are the Keshab Narayan Chowk, Mul Chowk and Sundari Chowk. Standing out as a classical example of Nepali stone architecture is the grand Krishna Mandir. Containing some 21

and huge square is so very integrated into the lives of the people who live there. Outside the palace you will see old men resting on wooden benches, reading the paper or smoking and talk-ing to each other. On the steps of the temples in front of the palace-Patan museum, you will see young people converge at the end of the day, sip-ping on tea or enjoying the street food that peo-ple seem to enjoy here right on the square. You will not see people embracing city life so much anywhere else in Nepal with people choosing to sit on the steps of their homes and not inside.

Krishna Mandir

Sundari Chowk

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praiseworthy metal work is the Bhimsen Temple. The temple was built in honor of Bhim, a god worshiped by businessmen in Nepal for bringing them good luck. Other sights to look out for in Patan Durbar Square are Taleju Bhawani Temple (1667), Degu Taleju Temple, Oku Bahal beind the Rudra Varna Maha Vihar and Mahaboudha Temple – the temple of a thousand Buddhas.

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Patan Dur-bar Square has much to offer tourists. Not only can visitors view the marvelous structures and religious art works, but there are also fascinating stores located around the squares where you can find delightful souvenirs and other items.

shrines, the temple stone structure was construct-ed during the 1600s under the direction of King Siddhi Narsingh Malla. It was built with the pur-pose of praising Lord Vishnu in his incarnation as Krishna. Scenes from the Mahabharata have been carefully engraved on the temple walls.

As you make your way around Sundari Chowk of Patan Durbar Square you will see the magnificent Tushahity royal bath. This exquisite structure is a marvelous work of stone art. A massive platform built from stone dominates the chowk. It is here that one of the kings would sleep during cold nights and sit during the monsoon rains, all with the goal of achieving eternal bliss.

Another popular attraction in the square is the famed Golden Temple. Inside this Newar monas-tery is a marvelous collection of metal sculptures, statues, paintings and scriptures. The deity that resides inside this temple is supposed to be a pow-erful one and pooja ceremonies here follow strict rules. One is asked to remove leather products such as belts, wallets or shoes before entering the premises. Another religious site here that features

What to do: When in Patan, do as locals do. Enjoy the world go by from one of the benches outside the Patan Museum, or on the steps of any temple in the area. Enjoy the street food or better still feed some pigeons while you are spending time doing nothing.

Patan’s Durbar Square is unique

in that it’s temples and the grand

palace and huge square is so very

integrated into the lives of the people

who live there.

cOverstorY - patan

Patan Durbar Square with 1. Taleju havani temple in background

Aerial v2. iew of Patan Durbar Square (Photo Courtesy: Fishtail Air - FA operates heli-tours on Heritage Sites)

Mul Chowk in Patan Durbar 3. Square

Keshav Narayan Chowk in 4. Patan Durbar Square

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The seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley inscribed on the list of World Cultural Heritage as a single site “Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site” in 1979 hold a very special place in the Nepalese people’s lives. These ensembles, including Hindus and Buddhist monuments and three residential palaces of the former royal cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, are not simply monuments and sites that were constructed by ancient rulers that have been reduced

to museum pieces. quite the contrary is true. These sites are so intricately woven into people’s lives here that their absence would mean a huge vacuum in the community, They are physical and cultural signatures of the community living in and around espousing their ancestors’ great contribution to the civilization of asia, notably representing the era of Nepalese renaissance in terms of highly developed craftsmanship in brick, wood and bronze as well as of various cultural manifestations that used to be a part of their communal life.

The exceptional architectural typologies displaying historic and artistic achievement testify to “living cultural traditions” manifested even today in the unique urban setting of the Newar community and reflect a unique coexistence and amalgamation of Hinduism and Buddhism within the strategic natural setting as an interface between the great cultures to the north and south of the Himalayas, closely

UNESCO has consistently worked towards generating increased awareness of the site managers for the preservation of the world heritage values of the site, notably through the preparation of the integrated Management Framework which was adopted by the government of Nepal as a benchmark for assuring sufficient protection of the sites. The approval of this framework had a considerable impact upon the decision making levels by bringing together the different stakeholders and government line agencies into dialogue.

as Head of the UNESCO Office here in Kathmandu, it is indeed a pleasure to contribute to the preservation of such amazing sites that belongs to all humanity. I look forward to working with the Nepali people to protect them from the threats that may affect them and to ensure that they contribute to social cohesion and well being, including in promoting them in relation to the celebration of the Nepal Tourism year 2011.

associated with legends, rituals and festivals.

These seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley have fulfilled specific criteria to be together on the list of World Heritage and deserve to be preserved for the value they holds not just to bring in tourists, but also as an important part of the Nepalese people’s rich cultural, artistic and architectural history.

UNESCO plays an important role in the preservation of the World Heritage Site of the Kathmandu Valley that is one of four sites in the country. Over time, UNESCO has been not only been helping to preserve these sites through strong alliances with the national authorities, notably the Department of archaeology and the site managers represented by the municipalities and the trusts, but also with the communities living in and around the monument zones whose daily lives are so closely linked with these places.

There has been criticism from the interna-tional community that preservation of the heritage sites has not been up to par. It has to be understood however that the monu-ments here are not merely show pieces but an important part of daily lives. There are a huge number of people who frequent these sites, not as tourists but because their daily lives - may it be prayers, small businesses or even something as simple as a morning walk revolves around these places. Preservation is undoubtedly impor-tant to highlight the rich cultural, artistic and architectural history of the Nepalese people. But all of this has to be understood and defined from a uniquely Nepali point of view.

Nepal Tourism Year 2011 is one such plan; a pretty ambitious one too for that mat-ter. The numerous promotional packages have been aimed at bringing in a million visitors. Promoters claim to have come up with new and innovative travel packages to suit every kind of tourist. From history and culture-themed escapades to wildlife

adventures, to extreme sports and trekking in the great Himalayas, the packages offer all. While the state tourism board’s pref-erence to quantity over quality has been frowned upon, with many skeptics calling it mere wishful thinking for the country’s ill-equipped hospitality sector to accom-modate so many tourists, it’s still a very good initiative. It’s about time the Nepali people stopped worrying about every pos-sible setback to its development and took concrete steps towards it.

axel platheHead, UNESCO Office in KathmanduUNESCO representative to Nepal

WOrDS frOm UNESCO

Getting there:all of the sites mentioned above are easily reached. There are local buses that go towards all the sites mentioned after which one might have to take a short walk to get to the heritage site.

Taxis will easily get one exactly to the site. Cycling or hiring a mo-torbike for a day might be other options. Non Nepali tourists might be asked for a small entrance fee at some sites. These rates differ for tourists from SaarC and non-SaarC countries.

The three other sites on the country’s heritage site list are the expansive forests of the Chitwan national park, the serene and equally grand Sagarmatha national park and Lumbini – the birthplace of the Buddha. To promote all ten sites is a must and processes are underway to make the most of the UNESCO listing.

References: www.unesco.org/kathmandu

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By dr. Ravi Shankar

HealTHtiMes

As in any large city, rapid urbanization has caused an increase in population with at-tendant problems of clean air, safe drink-ing water and sewage disposal. Traffic and brick kilns are among the major air pollution sources. Avoid the evening peak hours if possible and try to patronize hotels set back from the road. Jogging along the roads can increase the breathing rate and depth of respiration and a greater amount of pollutants can reach the lungs. Also most roads lack side walks or are perennially dug up increasing the risk of accidents.

The other major concern is about food and drinking water. Over the years, unfor-tunately, the quality of drinking water in the Kathmandu valley has deteriorated. Ensure you drink only clean, boiled water. Storage of boiled water in unclean con-tainers can cause recontamination. While going on a day trip either buy a processed drinking water bottle or ensure your hotel supplies you with clean, boiled water in a clean bottle (better). Bringing water to a rolling boil for around 20 seconds ensures that most disease-causing organisms are

kathmandu, the capital of Nepal evokes strong emotions among travelers. Some on reaching the valley fall hopelessly in love with its splendid

architecture, bustling durbar squares, majestic monuments and the deep sense of history which pervades the city. others take a look at the crowded,

chaotic streets, the dust and the pollution, the dirty polluted rivers and cannot wait to hop on the next flight home.

Kathmandu valley has seven World Heritage sites. Among these are the durbar squares of the three ancient capitals of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhadgaon (Bhaktapur), the Changu Narayan temple, the temple complex

of Pashupatinath and the stupas of Boudhanath and Swayambhunath. With this concentration of world heritage sites and Kathmandu being the major point of entry/exit the traveler is bound to spend a lot of time

in the valley. In this article we look at how to stay healthy in the Kathmandu valley.

Dr. Ravi Shankar is a medical doctor and clinical pharmacologist at KIST Medical College, Lalitpur. He has traveled widely throughout Nepal and has been involved in research about staying well at altitude. He is keenly interested in rational use of medicines and in empowering common people about health, illness and medicine.

healthin Kathmandu

S t a y i n g

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destroyed. If you are using processed water remember to crush the bottle after use and keep in mind that plastic bottles are a ma-jor environmental problem in the valley.

A variety of disease causing germs can be transmitted through food. Food prepara-tion methods can vary in quality and the water used for cooking may be of doubt-ful quality. Certain restaurants have a good reputation for cleanliness and good food handling. You can patronize them. Remember that quality of restaurants can fluctuate quickly in Kathmandu. Properly cooked food is safe but be careful with sal-ads. If you have to eat them ensure they are properly washed in clean water prefer-ably with some iodine. Food spoils quickly in the high temperature of summer and previously prepared and reheated food may be dangerous. I still remember an episode which happened nine years ago. My friends and I had had some food in a restaurant which looked pretty safe. I had severe vomiting and diarrhea later that night and by the morning was weak and dehydrated. I suspect the reheated ‘dal’ (lentil soup, a staple of the Nepalese diet) was the culprit.

Stomach infection can result in severe vomiting and may cause diarrhea or dys-entery. Diarrhea is loose watery stool and is commonly caused by viruses. Antibiotics will however have no effect on the course of illness. Diarrhea causes loss of salt and water through the stool and oral rehydra-tion salts (ORS, Jeevan Jal, Nava Jeevan) may be all that is required. Dysentery is blood and mucus in the stool and the two

most common organisms responsible in Nepal for it are Entameba and Giardia. In Nepal, a drug called metronidazole (met-ron) is commonly prescribed and used in all types of stomach infections. The drug can cause a metallic taste in the mouth and can cause a severe reaction when al-cohol is taken.

Monkeys can be a menace at certain loca-tions in the valley. Some sites frequented by monkeys are the Thapathali monument complex, Swayambhunath Stupa and the Pashupatinath temple. Monkeys usu-ally try to snatch food from the hands of unwary travelers. Do not keep your food out in the open. Do not eat and drink in a place where monkey are common. Do not go near baby monkeys. A tetanus tox-oid injection may be necessary for mon-key bites and scratches. Clean the wound well with soap and water and apply an antiseptic ointment and a clean dressing. Monkeys are deemed capable of transmit-ting rabies in Nepal and all travelers are requested to complete their course of pre-exposure rabies prophylaxis before coming to Nepal. If a person has completed the course of injec-tions and is exposed to a possibly ra-bid animal then two shots of a booster injection are recommended. If the person has not taken the pre-exposure injections then immunoglobulin injected around the wound offers immediate protection followed by the course of rabies treatment injections. Stray dogs are plentiful in the valley. Do not pick up strays and be careful while entering houses with dogs.

Before coming to Nepal it is recommended that you update your vaccina-tion status by completing the required courses of immunizations. The vaccines recommended are hepati-tis A, hepatitis B, Japanese encephalitis, meningococcal meningitis, rabies, polio, tetanus toxoid and typhoid. The valley is at a height of around 1400 m and is free from malaria though mosquitoes are aplenty.

Check that your hotel/lodge has adequate mosquito protection measures and/or of-fers mosquito nets. Mosquito repellent creams may be helpful. The altitude of the valley however does not expose travelers to the risk of altitude sickness.

The valley is surrounded by hills which of-fer trekking opportunities. While trekking the usual risk of injuries is present. This has been discussed in detail in a previous issue of Travel Times. In the monsoon leeches may be present and the risk of leech bites is a possibility. The valley’s location ensures that summers are usually pleasant and the high temperatures seen in the flatlands (the Terai) are rare. Risk of health related illness is minimal. The average tempera-ture though has been steadily increasing. Health related illnesses have been covered in a previous issue of Travel Times. Re-member to wear loose white clothing in summer, use a hat and stay well hydrated and replace the salt losses while walking around the valley in the summer months. In winters the minimum temperature is about 4° C and thick woolens may be re-quired.

However, the valley has some world class medical facilities. There are many up to

par public and private hospitals. Many teaching hospitals attached to medi-

cal schools are also present in the valley. There are specialized travel medicine clinics which deal with problems of travelers.

HealTHtiMes

QUICK TIPS TO STAY HEALTHY IN KATHMANDU • Keepinmindnoiseandvehicularpollution.If

possible stay in quiet areas set back from the road

• Drinkonlyclean,boiledwater

• Whengoingondaytripseitherusepackageddrinking water or get your hotel lodge to provide you clean, boiled water in a clean container (preferable)

• Patronizerestaurantswhichmaintaingoodstandardsof hygiene

• Becarefulwithsaladsandrawfoods

• KeepORShandy.Dissolveasachetinaliterofboiledand cooled water, store in a clean container and use as required

• Becarefularoundmonkeys

• CompleteyourcourseofvaccinationsbeforevisitingNepal

• Becarefulwhiletrekkinginthehillssurroundingthevalley

• Dressappropriatelytosuittemperaturerequirements

• Seekspecializedhelpwhenrequired

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to see that Nepal too has fallen victim to rapid Westernization. Nepali traditions all but forgotten, vehicles jamming the streets, fast food chains cropping up every-where, modern Western-style hotels, did they travel all that way to find a disappoint-ing copy of what they already had where they came from?

Fortunately, Dwarika’s Hotel, Nepal’s first

People travel to find new things, ex-plore new cultures, meet foreign people with thoughts so different

from their own. They long for exotic cus-toms, unique food, and quirky traditions that will enliven the ordinary lifestyles they have become so used to back at home. Tourists come to Nepal to experience its authentic culture for themselves, and it must be a more than a little disappointing

ever Heritage Hotel, more than makes up for the current apathy towards disappearing Nepali traditions and antiques. Entering the unassuming doorway to Dwarika’s, you find yourself in a quaint sitting room over-looking a courtyard evoking bygone eras of historical glory. Handmade old furniture carved with dancing figures and tables of polished wood adorn the waiting area, complete with a set of the ancient game of

HOTels&casINOs

DWARIKA’S HOTEL

Culture meets luxury

Text by yesha Malla

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“Bagchal” to play at leisure. The sounds of the city now sound far away and are pretty much forgotten in the sunlit cobbled floor of the courtyard dotted with rustling trees teeming with chirping birds. The atmosphere is rustic and peaceful, as if time stands still in the heart of fast paced Kathmandu.

Dwarika’s is a unique hotel that was not, like most hotels, opened for commercial business purposes. Rather, it evolved as a work in prog-ress, out of the efforts of a noble man to pre-serve the culture of his homeland. In 1952, the late Dwarika Das Shrestha, pained to see in-tricately engraved wooden pillars being ripped off unceremoniously from old buildings to be used for firewood or stripped off for lumber, bought them on the spot rather than see them destroyed. He couldn’t bear to see signs of the selfsame destruction of the symbols of archi-tectural prowess of his forefathers everywhere

and soon after started to salvage all the artifacts he could, creating an extensive collection in the process. As his collection grew, he needed a place to keep them in. He decided then to construct a building in the old Newari style of Kathmandu using the carved doors and win-dows he had rescued. The idea of using the building as a lodge so people could appreciate the architectural skills and culture of Nepal

emerged and so Dwarika’s Hotel was born.

Today, even after his demise, his quest to protect the architectural glory of Nepal is not only alive and well but thriving. Dwarika’s Hotel prides in its mission to not only scour the nation for and rescue carved wooden artifacts to add to their burgeoning collection but also train their own legion of craftsmen to dupli-cate the skills of ancient Nepali artisans. The craftsmen are trained to effectively repair and refurbish missing pieces of wood carvings imitating the style of the ancient carvers and incorporate them into the Dwarika’s buildings. A tiny lane from the main buildings of Dwarika’s Ho-tel leads to a special restoration workshop established for this purpose.

With such a noble mission and such dedication to art, it is befitting to find that Dwarika’s hotel is spectacularly beauti-ful. Walking about the hotel premises will make you feel like you are in an an-cient palace, what with the carvings and art pieces that have been flawlessly craft-ed into the buildings. Each artifact res-cued and lovingly preserved has its own

Walking about the hotel premises will make you feel like you are in an

ancient palace, what with the carvings

and art pieces that have been flawlessly

crafted into the buildings.

Facade of the Hotel1. Bathroom of Royal Suite2. Lumbini Lounge3.

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Royal Suite Lounge1. Krishnarpan restaurant to give 2. you a taste of Nepali cuisine in traditional Nepali surroundingsNepali cuisine served in 3. Krishnarpan restaurant

history, accompanied by tales of lore and ritu-als from ancient times. The oldest is a large ornate door from the 13th century. Each wing of the Hotel is unique and was built at differ-ent years in different styles. Each is a veritable museum on its own.

Dwarika’s Hotel boasts Heritage Rooms, Ju-nior Suites, Executive Suites and the Royal Suite, all individually furnished, unlike the box set décor of most hotels. Fully equipped to make guests comfortable, and at home, the rooms, with floors of finely polish terracotta tiles, beamed ceilings and carved windows, are quaint and very welcoming. All modern implements are seamlessly concealed behind authentic handmade furniture so as to main-tain the authentic look. Collectibles and

showpieces placed in the niches and on the tables further adorn the rooms. The Royal Suite does justice to its regal name, with its spacious and luxuriant interiors, the valu-able art pieces, and the stairs leading to an upper chamber complete with a chess set. Huge windows look out to the charming courtyard of the hotel. A door leads to the terrace where one can spend hours sun-bathing or enjoy the fresh evenings, lying on the swing chair at the farthest end.

The Hotel provides many ways to whittle away time pleasantly. You can go to the Library Lounge, lined with books from Dwarika Das Shrestha’s collection, mostly dealing with Nepal and its culture. It is cozy and softly lit, where you can spend a comfortable evening by the fireplace with friends or family, or simply in the company of books. Exploring the House of Treasure for souvenirs is another perhaps more ex-pensive option. Or perhaps you would like to take a few laps at the swimming pool that imitates a lavish 12th century Malla Dy-nasty baths. Even better, you can enjoy spe-cial in-room massages – natural Ayurvedic massages, relaxing Deep Tissue Vibration massages, or traditional Newari massages. Besides recreational facilities, the Lohn Hiti conference hall, so called because of the stone spouts gushing water nearby – lohn hiti is literally stone spouts in Newari - is also available for business seminars and workshops.

A surefire way of experiencing a culture, is of course, through food. Dwarika’s ho-tel has the Krishnarpan restaurant to give you a taste of Nepali cuisine in traditional Nepali surroundings. Here you can enjoy delicious Nepali fare ranging from 6 to a 22 courses on the floor with traditional Ne-pali utensils. The small chamber that lead into the main dining area is stocked with classy wines, and lined with framed photo-graphs of celebrities, VIPs, and royalty who graced the hotel and dined in Krishnarpan.

All modern implements are seamlessly concealed behind authentic handmade furniture so as to maintain the authentic look.

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Toran Restaurant1. Fusion Bar2. Swimming pool 3.

Lit by dim soothing lights, the huge hall is dotted with low tables and cushions on the floor. In true Nepali tradition, shoes have to be removed before enter-ing the restaurant. For an international feel, Dwarika’s also accommodates the Toran Restaurant which features first class dining from all over the world. The Fusion Bar, where the traditional meets the new, is the place to hang out, with live blues and Jazz music, exotic drinks, great food and a casual atmosphere. Musical instruments, photographs of fa-mous musicians line the walls.

Dwarika’s Hotel’s success is evident in the other establishments it operates: the Dwarika’s Himalayan Shangri-la Vil-lage Resort in Dhulikhel and the Kaiser Café Restaurant and Bar at the Garden of Dreams, Thamel. The hotel was featured in “Asia’s Legendary Hotels” in 2007, in the renowned HIP Hotels series of books: “HIP Hotels: Orient” by Herbert Ypma and in “The Hotel Book” published by Taschen, Germany. Its heritage restoration attempts was appreciated and honored by the PATA (Pacific Asia Travel Association) and the hotel was awarded its first PATA Heri-tage Award in 1980. It was even named a World Heritage Site. Its continued ef-forts to preserve the architectural heri-tage of Nepal has obviously paid off.

If you ever wanted to indulge yourself in Nepali culture and history, Dwarika’s is the place to go. Nowhere else will you be able to stay in an authentic museum of Nepali artifacts and not be told off for touching the specimens. Travelers hungry for a taste of Nepal, stay here and enjoy its truly Nepali atmosphere, be inspired by its dedication to its cul-tural conservation principles as well as towards the comfort and satisfaction of its guests, and return home satisfied and content, for you have experienced the essence of Nepal, in Dwarika’s Hotel.

If you ever wanted to indulge yourself in Nepali culture and history, Dwarika’s is the place to go.

For more information on Dwarika’s Hotel, log on to:

www.dwarikasgroup.com

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RoyAl thAI ReStAURANtNew Baneshwor, KathmanduTel: 4781104Speciality: Thai

RUM doodleThamel, KathmanduTel: 4701107Speciality: Steak & Pizza

SeoUl ARIRANg koReAN ReStAURANt Nagpokhari, KathmanduTel: 4429052Speciality: Korean

ShIShA teRRACe CAFe ANd bARThamelTel:4701104Speciality: Multi

ShogUN jAPANeSe ReStAURANtBabarmahal, KathmanduTel: 4263720Speciality: Japanese

tAMAS SPA loUNgeJP Road, KathmanduTel: 4257658Speciality: Multi

tUkUChe thAkAlI kItCheNDurbar Marg, KathmanduTel: 4225890Speciality: Authentic Nepali

tUShItALazimpat, KathmanduTel: 4432957Speciality: Continental, Nepali

WUNjAlA MoSkvANaxal, KathmanduTel: 4781104Speciality: Newari, RussianSpeciality: Israeli, Arabia

365 ReStAURANt WIth hookAh bARPulchowk, LalitpurTel: 2110800Speciality: Arabian

bARyo FIeStANaxal, KathmanduTel: 4414395Speciality: Tandoori, Taas

bhojAN gRIhA Pvt.ltdDillibazarTel: 4411603Speciality: Nepali

bhUMI the ReStRo loUNgeLazimpat, KathmanduTel: 4412193Speciality: Newari

boddhI gARdeN vegetARIAN ReStAURANtMaharajgunj, KathmanduTel: 4721939Speciality: Various Veg Tastes

boURboN RooMNarayanhiti Marg, KathmanduTel: 4441703Speciality: Continental, Italian, Oriental

CAFeReeNASherpa Mall, KathmanduTel: 4231313Speciality: Thai, Multi

CAFé de PAtANPatan Durbar Square, LalitpurTel: 5537599Speciality: Newari Foods

CheRRy loUNge & bARLazimpat, Opp. Shangrila HotelMob: 9741 115143Speciality: Cherry flavour drinks

Chez CARolINeBabarmahal, KathmanduTel: 4263070Speciality: French

delICAteSSeN CeNteR & CAFeDurbar margTel:4221331Speciality: Multi

dhAbA ReStAURANt & bARThapathali, KathmanduTel: 4100510Speciality: Indian

FACtoRyThamelTel: 4701185Speciality: Multi

FIRe ANd ICeThamelTel:4250210Speciality: Italian

FlAvoUR’S CAFé & ReStAURANtBouddha, KathmanduTel: 2140277Speciality: Chinese

ghANgRI’S SUMAI ReStAURAtTekuTel:4260630Speciality: Multi

gReeN olIve ReStAURANt & ShIShA bARChhetrapatiTel:4212730Speciality: Italian/Indian

gReeN oRgANIC CAFé & SAlAd bARThamel, KathmanduTel: 4215726Speciality: Nepali, Continental

hIMAlAyAN jAvA CoFFee loUNgeThamelTel:4422519Speciality: Multi

hot bReAdSNew Road, KathmanduTel: 4429031Speciality: Confectionery

kAUSI kItCheN ReStAURANt & bARWoodland ComplexTel: 4227288Speciality: Multi

khINg thAIJp Road, Chaksibari MargTel:4244378Speciality: Thai

koto ReStAURANtDurbar Marg, KathmanduTel: 4226025 Speciality: Japanese Cuisine

k-too beAR & SteAk hoUSeParyatan Marg, KathmanduTel: 4700043Speciality: ThailA dolCe vItAThamelTel:4700612Speciality: Italian

RoAd hoUSe CAFePulchowk, LalitpurTel: 5520524Speciality: Italian

lAyAkU ReStAURANtDurbar Square, BhaktapurTel: 4781104Speciality: Multi

MAMA MIA ItAlIA ReStAURANtThamelTel:2191729Speciality: Italian

MAtSURISherpa Mall, KathmanduTel: 4229032Speciality: Chinese, Japanese

MIke’S bReAkFAStNaxal, KathmanduTel: 4781104Speciality: American. Mexican, Italian

MoodS StUdIo loUNgeBlue Bird MallTel:4215740Speciality: Multi Cuisine

NePAlI ChUlo ReStAURANtDurbar MargTel:4220475Speciality: Nepali Fixed Dinner

NhUChhe’S oRgANIC bIStRoBaluwatar, KathmanduTel: 4414383Speciality: Organic Foods

PIzzA exPReSSLazimpatTel:2161212Speciality: Pizza

RICe & boWl ReStAURANtTripureshworTel:4260677Speciality: Chinese

Red dINgoJawalakhel, LalitpurTel: 01-6914930Speciality: Australian

RoyAl SAINo ReStAURANt & bARDurbar Marg, KathmanduTel: 01-230890Speciality: Indian, Continental

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SAMAY BAJI F o o d o f t h e G o d s

FoodRInK

Text by Prabal b. Malla

Location Wunjala Moskva, Naxal, kathmandu

66

LAA CHHAKU WAYKA SAMAY BAJI,

WALLA WALLA PULU KISHI…

These are the words to an old, humorous Newari song, passed down from one generation to the other. During the Indra Jatra festival, the words to this song ring through the streets of old Kathmandu. As they labor hard pulling at a chariot, the song is sung in anticipation of the

feasting that that will take place to mark the end of the festival.

Give us Samaybaji with a piece of meat

Here comes the white elephant….{ {

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Heave, ho…heave, ho…pull harder, flank to the left, get out of the way …” hordes of tipsy

men shout. A magnificent chariot of the living goddess Kumari along with smaller but equally majestic chariots of the elephant god Ganesh and Bhairab are being pulled into the cultural hub of Kathmandu, the Hanuman Dhoka. It is the time of the Lakhe dances, folk dramas and joyful processions. The white wicker elephant (Indra’s Steed) tumbles around, dancing amidst the amusement of ev-eryone around. Children are running around giggling and singing songs while the women look at the procession with a smile on their faces. The great festivity of Indra Jatra is coming to its royal end. This is marked by a huge feast in which, the whole of the city participates, some at the square itself while most at their homes. The feast is called Samay Baji.

Diversity is their hallmark; feasting is their passion. They are the Newars, the indig-enous folk of the Kathmandu valley who work at different professions and excel in all. Most importantly, they are known for their food culture, which is rich and varied, though the rest of the world has yet to taste it. A traditional dish of the Newars, Samay Baji is a regular item in many Newari festivities. What makes this dish so popular is the range of varieties on offer. Samay Baji is a set of dishes repre-senting the Pancha Tatwa (five elements) and more. The pancha tatwa holds a high pedestal in many religions and cultures, in particular, Hinduism and Buddhism. According to Hindu scripts, the great or

primary elements from whence people and everything else evolve and dissolve are five folds. From god himself, space came in to being; from space, air was born; from air, the burning fire; from fire, water; fi-nally from water, the earth. Symbolization of the pancha tatwa in this dish signifies the importance this dish holds in Newari folklore.

This Newar cuisine comprises of mustard oil and a host of spices, such as cumin, ses-ame seeds, turmeric, garlic, ginger, methi, bayleaves, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, chili,

mustard seeds and vinegar. These spices used to add flavour to the dish actually give the cuisine its unique taste.

It basically constitutes Baji (beaten rice), Samay (puffed rice), Chhoyla (grilled meat), Sanya (smoked fish), Mushya (fried soya bean), Lava (garlic), Palu (sliced ginger), Woh (ground black lentils pancake), Bhuti ( boiled beans), Alu Waa-la (boiled potato), Khein (egg), Chatamari (ground ricepankcake) served with Aila or Thwon:, the common liquors that Newars make at home.

fOOdrink

Samay baji is labeled as the ‘food of gods’ and pure by the Newars and hence offered to the gods on many occasions.

bAjI is dehusked rice which is flattened into flat light dry flakes. This form of raw, ready to eat form of rice is very popular in Nepal and is an integral part of a Nepali’s diet. It even holds it’s own in various cultural and religious ceremonies. The crunchy feel of the baji is good on the taste buds and goes easy on the stomach.

SAMAy is a variation of the regular beaten rice in which the beaten rice is lightly fried till it’s puffy. This puffiness created by trapped air is the reason why Samay symbolizes one of the pancha tatwas - space.

ChhoylA – meat grilled over the flames of dried wheat plants, is a very popular Newari dish that goes far beyond its ethnic boundaries. It represents one of the five pancha tatwas - the earth. This mouth watering dish is made up of buffalo meat which is marinated with spices and grilled.

SANyA, an integral part of Samay Baji, is basically fresh water fish that is dried and smoked till its crispy brown. It represents the third pancha tatwa - water.

“

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AIlA is a locally brewed rice brandy which is a considerably strong drink. Thnwo: however is more like Newari beer. This represents the final pancha tatwa -fire for obvious reasons. It is con-sumed in almost all Newari festivals and thus is a signature drink of the Newars.

MUShyA is fried black soya bean which adds a darker color and more crunchiness to the Samay baji. It represents the pancha tatwa - air. Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish consisting of boiled and salted beans.

lAvA ANd PAlU are garlic and ginger respectively. These ingredients are not mashed and mixed into any other item as in the case of most cuisine. Here, the ginger and garlic are cut into small pieces and then lightly fried and served. They blend in to spice things up.

Woh is an exclusive Newari dish prepared by grounding black lentils. The mash is then shaped into small pancakes and cooked till it’s slightly brown. Bhuti is a very simple vegetable dish consist-ing of boiled and salted beans.

AAlU WAAlA means mixed potatoes in Newari. Boiled potatoes are cut into pieces and mixed lightly with a hint of spice, edible oils and salt. It serves to be quite a good cohort to the beaten rice.

kheIN is a boiled egg, lightly fried and served whole. Eggs hold an important role in Newari customs. They are offered and partaken on every occasion ranging from festivals for the gods to birthdays.

ChAtAMARI is another popular dish served as a part of Samay baji. Although many variations of this dish are available, the one here is the most basic one. Grounded rice is mixed with water and cooked on a flat pan in the shape of a very thin cake.

bhUtI is a very simple vegetable dish consisting of boiled beans that are sautéed with salt and spices. The mild taste of dish compliments the whole set.

Some items can be added or removed from this incredible mixture depending on the occasion. The vast range of items and varying flavors give it a unique taste. Served on a traditional leaf plate, the pre-sentation itself is a piece of art. The dif-ferent colors and smells provide enough incentive to dig in as soon as the food is served. The beaten rice (Baji) and the flat-tened rice (Samay) are centred while the rest of the items are placed round the cen-tre piece. The Aaila is served alongside, customarily on a clay saucer.

Samay baji is traditionally eaten seated on the floor on long mats woven from straw called sukul. Only the right hand is used to eat (after washing of course!) while the left hand should never touch food as it is considered impure but may be used for cups and glasses. It is usually eaten by mixing all the side dishes in different ways with the beaten rice, little by little, savor-ing the delicate taste of everything on of-fer. Every combination, up to the diner’s imagination provides a unique tingle on one’s taste buds. The musky taste of woh, the crunchy beaten rice, the spicy meat, the fiery aaila and all the other diverse feels of the different items makes eating this dish feel like an adventure in itself.

Every next morsel tastes different from the last.

Samay baji is labeled as the ‘food of gods’ and pure by the Newars and hence offered to the gods on many occasions. Many res-taurants in and around Kathmandu give everyone a chance to taste what the gods devour. Not just a unique cuisine, it is a cultural heritage and a piece of history that has survived the test of time. And to be a part of the past, the future and the present, all in the same instant of time, is a privi-lege that not everyone can experience.

With so many festivals and such a rich culture of food and drink and worship, celebrated for ages, the Newars are cul-tural standouts when it comes to feasting. Newari cuisine with its unique taste, pe-culiar cooking style and natural spices has always been popular with Nepalese. For all of you out there who have yet to experi-ence Newari gustatory delicacies, there are

a number of good restaurants where you can try some good Newari cuisine. Or, if you have Newar friends, perhaps you’ll be lucky enough to be invited to a traditional Samey Baji meal.

As the feast concludes, the people of the city get back to their hearths with heavy hearts - the sights and sounds of the cel-ebration still imposed in their minds, for they wish that the night would last for ever. A stomach filled with Samay baji and the mind filled with Aaila, the tired citizens of this ancient country drift away into a peaceful slumber on the full moon night, dreaming of the gods and heaven, still singing, still dancing.

WheRe to get yoUR hANdS oN SAMAy bAjI -Wunjala Moskva, Naxal, Kathmandu•Patan De Café, Mangal Bazaar, Patan•Kwalku Kitchen, Patan•Layeku Restaurant, Patan Durbar Square•Newa Lahana, Kirtipur•

With so many festivals and such a rich culture of food and drink and worship, celebrated for ages, the Newars are cultural standouts when it comes to feasting.

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PARAgLIDINg

Text by yesha MallaPhotos Courtesy: AvIA ClUb NePAl

adveNTUreIntRo

the desire to spread wings and take off has been long associated with freedom. Paragliding might be the best answer yet that man has come up with towards this dream.

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PEOPLE PARAgLIDE NOT ONLy FOR THE ExHILARATION AND THE SENSE OF ADvENTURE, BUT TO ENjOy SCENEry aND NaTUrE WiTH a BirD’S EyE POiNT Of ViEW.

For once you have tasted flight,

You will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,

For there you have been,

And there you long to return.

-Leonardo da Vinci

Leonardo da Vinci, the great 15th century artist and inventor who had dedicated so many years delving

into the mysteries of flight and sketched many plans for flying machines, would have appreciated the simple yet elegant idea of gliding through the air with a piece of fabric forming a canopy overhead to increase air drag. Paragliding, consid-ered both a recreational and a competitive sport, is a basic form of free flight that will delight and excite the most adventurous of thrill seekers and make the dream of man to soar the skies like birds come true.

Paragliding owes its origins to parachutes, for paragliders are simply parachutes that allow us to glide through the air and not descent vertically. Paragliding evolved from skydivers flying their parachutes off small hills in eastern Montana in the late seventies and climbers in the French Alps using ram-air skydiving canopies to make safe and efficient descents from peaks after ascending technical routes. People realized there was a whole new challenge in prolonging the distance and duration of such flights if one could find and loiter in areas of rising air like the hang gliders did. In September 1965, David introduced ‘slope soaring’ as a summer activity for ski resorts. NASA originated the term ‘para-glider’ in the early 1960s, and ‘paragliding’ was first used in the early 1970s to describe foot-launching of gliding parachutes.

Today’s paraglider is a free-flying foot-launched ram-air airfoil canopy, flown and landed with no other energy than from the wind, gravity, and the pilot’s muscle power, who sits in a harness sus-pended below a fabric wing. Paragliders combine the light weight and safety of sport parachutes with the convenience, low cost, and soaring capability of hang gliders. It gets lift from the wind and sun, providing a way to soar along a ridge or to rise in the warm air of invisible, thermal

currents. The pilot lays the canopy out on the ground, puts on the harness, launch-es by running down a slope, and quietly glides down to the landing area below. With the right conditions and experience, it’s also possible to make flights where one gains altitude and flies for many miles and many hours.

Needless to say, Nepal enjoys its fair share of paragliding enthusiasts. After all, people paraglide not only for the exhila-ration and the sense of adventure, but to enjoy the scenery and nature with a bird’s eye point of view. And where better to glimpse a bit of heaven, with azure skies, snow-white mountain peaks, clear waters in lakes and frothing and gurgling rivers than Nepal? The best place to paraglide is the Annapurna region in Pokhara, where paragliding already enjoys immense pop-ularity and many agencies offer the best of paragliding adventures.

The micro-climate of Pokhara valley makes it an ideal area for flying, with far more constant conditions than the Kathmandu valley. There are several sites around Phewa lake but the most ac-cessible is Sarangkot. A view point 700m above Pokhara, it is unique in that it has a road running to the top. With the lake 2000ft below, the mountains behind, and the unlimited potential for cross country flying out and returns, this has quickly be-come the main site for the area, and many pilots have based themselves in Pokhara for the season, flying from this mountain alone. There are an abundance of other sites around the valley such as Dhikie Danda, Galem, Sirkot, Tansen, Bandipur all of which can be connected by air from Sarangkot.

Gliding is a weather dependent sport and the flying season in Nepal commences from mid October until the beginning of May with the clearest and more favorable

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weather for mountain views in the months of November, December, and January. No previous experience is required as quali-fied pilots provide a short briefing before launching, so anyone can paraglide, and can fully trust pilots for one of the most exciting journeys of their lives. For the be-ginner there are tandem flights where the passenger gets to fly in front of a trained pilot in complete safety. Both the pilot and the passenger have their own harness which is attached to each other and the wing. The more experienced paragliders are usually allowed by companies to fly on their own after a small test.

Adventure companies in Nepal offer many paragliding options. Those who want to travel through the country via paragliding for multiple days can be given a few days training course for cross-country gliding. This type of travel program can last for a few days or weeks if desired and makes for a unique way to travel through Nepal and see different towns that many travelers do not get the chance to see. Annapurna

Panorama flights are available for a sight-seeing of three of the highest mountains of the world, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Manaslu.

Midday Cloud buster flights are more thrilling as paragliders thermal higher and higher up above Sarangkot and land by the lake after a enjoyable ride of half an hour. Cross-country flights follow a trail to the north of Pokhara towards the big moun-tains to travel from one valley to another in duration of an hour. The most thrilling option is Acrobatic Flying, for the biggest shot of adrenaline, where acro pilots, in the mere space of 10-20 minutes take pas-sengers on a wild rollercoaster ride looping

and spiraling in the air, with maneuvers such as the “Helicopter” “SAT” “Back-fly”

“Tumble” and “Wingover”.

Paragliding is often viewed as a higher-risk sport than it actually is. But part of the ex-citement of paragliding is how difficult and dangerous it looks; after all, you’re hover-ing in midair and the ground appears to be staring up hungrily at you as you fly. But paragliding is perfectly safe in the hands of trained professionals; it is only as safe or dangerous as the pilot makes it. While paragliding one must make sure that all the flying equipments including gliders, harness, helmets, reserve parachute and other essential safety gears are top of the

PARAgLIDINg IS PERFECTLy SAFE IN THE HANDS OF TRAINED PROFESSIONALS; IT IS ONLy AS SAFE OR DANgEROUS AS THE PILOT MAKES IT.

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ready for run-up

Turning time

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line and constantly checked for reliability at all conditions.

Nonetheless, there many risks of injury for the reckless or ill-prepared. However good equipment, proper training, and most im-portantly mature judgment make the sport safe. General safety precautions include pre-flight checks, helmets, harnesses with back protection (foam or air-bag), reserve parachutes, and careful pre-launch obser-vation of other pilots in the air to evaluate conditions.

The safety of the sport is directly influ-enced by the skill and sense of the pilot. Given that equipment failure of prop-erly certified paragliding equipment can be considered a non-issue, it is accurate to say that paragliding can be a very safe sport. The individual pilot is the ultimate indicator of his or her personal safety level. However if the following safety measures are taken and the general rules of para-gliding are taken into consideration then it is safe to say that the only injury that will take place is minor injuries such as sprains and bruises.

• The safe pilot will not fly at sites that pose an unreasonable challenge to his/her flying skills.

• Thesafepilotwillnotbeinfluencedbythe possibly negative examples set by others.

• The safe pilot will only fly on days inwhich the weather is conducive to safe flight. Turbulence in all its forms is enemy #1 for a flying paraglider wing. Because paragliders have no solid sup-port, their shape (and ability to fly) can be ruined by an errant down draft or the like. Therefore, turbulence or conditions conducive to turbulence generation is a primary factor in determining whether the weather is safe.

• Paraglidingisonlydoneingoodweather.For paragliding, it is best to be prepared with strong shoes and a windproof jacket. If sensitive to motion sickness it is recom-mended to take some sort of non-drowsy medicine well before the flight.

Besides rafting and bungee jumping, para-gliding is the most exhilarating and popular extreme sport in the world. People come in droves to paraglide and experience the winds beneath their feet. If you would like to watch the sunset from a comfortable seat in the air, supported by the buoy-ant evening air with prime views of Lake Phewa and mountains then paragliding is for you for it is the simplest and most serene way to fulfill man’s oldest dream

-- free flight! Even though mishaps and ac-cidents can occur due to faulty equipment or unfortunate lack of judgment in the pi-lot’s part or plain bad luck, if you dream of flying not in stuffy airplanes or noisy com-pact helicopters but like the kingly eagles, then do not limit yourself in fear of could be or might be’s. Soar free!

SUggeSted PARAglIdINg oPeRAtoRS

AVIA CLuB nEPAL •www.aviaclubnepal.combLue Sky paragLiDing •www.paragliding-nepal.ch

SunriSe paragLiDer •www.sunrise-paragliding.comFrontier• www.nepal-paragliding.comannapurna paragLiDer •para nova•

IF yOU WOULD LIKE TO WATCH THE SUNSET FROM A COMFORTABLE SEAT IN THE AIR, SUPPORTED By THE BUOyaNT EVENiNg air WiTH PrimE ViEWS Of PHEWa LAKE AND MOUNTAINS THEN PARAgLIDINg IS FOR yOU.

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Aerial view of paddy field next to phewa lake

Exploring the forests and trails

Landing at the bank of Phewa lake.

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Hong Kong may be small in size, but it’s a tourist destination jackpot; almost any of Hong Kong’s districts can be designated as one. There are that many places to see within these 1,104 square kilometers. So, keeping in

mind a holiday experience, here are the nine Hong Kong destinations you don’t want to miss.

You haven’t lived till you’ve been to

the citY of life

| Artificial and natural beauty to knock your socks off. || Activities and thrills to stop your heart and blow your mind. |

| Sights and shows to dazzle your eyes. |

If you just thought of a snow capped mountain, think again. Hong Kong’s Victoria Peak is not a cold, uninhabited geographical feature: it’s a tourism hotspot, bustling with seven million visitors a year. What makes this place one of the most popular tourist sites? First, the jaw –dropping view of the surrounding city skyline, the world-famous Victoria Harbour and Kowloon, towering skyscrapers and peaceful green hillsides. Second, two major leisure and shopping centres, the Peak Tower and the Peak Galleria are situated nearby, adjacent to each other. And third, the famous Peak tram system to get you there. For great continuous unfolding vistas, we recommend taking the Peak Circle Walk or going directly to the Lugard

Road. The Lions View Point Pavilion and the viewing terrace at the Peak Galleria, as well as the Peak Tower Sky Terrace are excellent viewing spots as well. As for shopping…well that depends entirely on the tourist’s budget!

One more recommendation for the Peak-bound tourist: do not miss out on Madame Tussauds; Hong Kong , open from 10 am to 10 pm daily. This one-of-a-kind wax museum offers visitors an unprecedented multitimedia experience.

Opened in 1977 on the southern side of Hong Kong Island, Ocean Park features rides, exhibits and conservation facilities. Visit some of Asia’s rarest animals at the ‘Amazing Asian Animals’ exhibit. Enjoy the thrill of SkyFair, a huge helium-filled balloon soaring more than 100 metres into the sky. Immerse yourself in a fantastic voyage on the Ocean Express: the latest quick, smooth and thrilling way to travel from the Ocean Park Waterfront to the excitement at the Summit.

THE PEAK OCEAN PARK

SYmPHONY OF LIGHTSThis spectacular multimedia display, already named the “World’s Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show” by Guinness World Records, has been further expanded to include more than 40 buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbour.

The show creates an all-round vision of coloured lights,

Peak Tower

laser beams and searchlights performing a stunning, unforgettable spectacle synchronised to music and narration that celebrates the energy, spirit and diversity of Hong Kong.

For best view, we recommend taking a harbor cruise.

HolidaYdesTINaTION

Text by darshan Shakya

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HONG KONGDISNEYLAND

HONG KONG WETLAND PARK

The Hong Kong experience is unforgettable. And almost indescribable. We can only sum up this experience with the official Hong Kong slogan,hoNg koNg – lIve It. love It.

Hong kong is known as the Hollywood of the East. This place is a tribute to that. Featuring commemorative plaques, handprints of movie celebrities, descriptive milestones, kiosks with movie memorabilia, a towering Hong Kong Film Awards statuette, and a life-size statue of Bruce Lee as well as fantastic views into the Victoria Harbor [Symphony of Lights included] and the Hong Kong skyline, this is one spot you don’t want to miss.

AvENUE OF STARS

The name speaks for itself, but we’d like to add a little more. Anyone visiting the Hong Kong Disneyland Resort will have magical journeys through four themed lands, namely Main street U.S.A., Fantasyland, Adventureland and Tomorrowland. Plus, two Disney-style hotels offer a diverse range of food at various restaurants in the park. And of course, specialty stores sell Disney souvenirs in each themed land and at the two hotels.

mARKETS for your shopping pleasure

NGONG PING 360

After the initial 25 minute cable ride, three major attractions await the tourist. Witness the transition of Siddhartha Gautam into Gautam Buddha in “Walking with Buddha.” Enjoy the antics of the three monkey friends, as they travel on a journey of greed, gluttony and friendship

with the show “The monkey’s tale.” Experience a birds-eye-view of the deep blue sea and the lush green mountainside underneath your feet with the glass-bottomed cable car ride, The Crystal Cabin. We especially recommend the last one: the thrills are unbelievable.

Home to a stunning array of wildlife, this manmade wetland is a world class ecotourism facility aimed at promoting green tourism, education on environmental protection and wetland conservation. If you love nature, you’ll adore this place.

Live it up, then shop till you drop. But where? There’s a plethora of markets in this ‘small’ tourist destination: the Western market, the Stanley Market and Murray House, Cheung Sha Wan Road Fashion Street, the Ladies’ Market, Temple Street Night market, Jade Market and Jade Street, Yuen Po Street Bird Garden / Flower Market / Goldfish Market and more! Shopper’s heaven or budget nightmare? Each of these markets is worth checking out – so much that ranking is near impossible.

JUmBO KINGDOmTired from all that touring? Stomach rumbling from all that sight seeing? How about dinner – Chinese royalty style? Presenting the Jumbo Floating Restaurant: a truly unique restaurant, designed like a classic Chinese palace, excelling in the preparation of seafood for discerning diners. Situated in Aberdeen harbour,

the Jumbo can accommodate around 2300 people at a time, and is one of the world’s largest floating restaurant. Today, the restaurant has been renovated and goes by the name Jumbo Kingdom: it is now not only a restaurant, but a modern complex of fine dining, shopping, sightseeing and cultural attractions.

gettINg theReQuite a number of airlines are available for your journey to Hong Kong: Nepal Airlines and Dragon Airlines fly directly to Hong Kong more than thrice a week, whereas other airlines offer connecting flights. Included in the more popular connecting flights are China Southern Airlines(via Guangzhou), China Eastern Airlines (via Kunming), Thai Airlines (via Bangkok) and Singapore Airlines (via Singapore).

: HOlIdaYdestination

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www.nextyatra.comGlOBaltreasure

PetRA the roSe red City

Text by darshan ShakyaPhoto Courtesy dennis g. jarvis

Hidden behind an almost impenetrable wall of mountains lies what has come to be known as the treasure of the ancient world. Getting there may seem difficult, but it’s well worth the effort. As a site dedicated to heritage says about Petra - “there is nothing in the world quite like it.” It was a city designed to strike wonder into the hearts of all those that entered it.

Petra is considered the most famous and gorgeous site in Jordan located about 262 km south of Amman and 133 km north of Aqaba. It is the legacy of the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled in southern Jordan more than 2000 years ago. Admired then for its refined culture,

massive architecture and ingenious complex of dams and water channels, Petra is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the new seven wonders of the world that charms visitors from all over the globe.

thailand

Cambodia

ANgkoR WAt

Phnom Penh

laos

vietnam

tURkey

SyRIA

IRAq

joRdAN

CyPRUS

lebANoN

ISRAel

PAleStINe

egyPt

Red SeA

SAUdI ARAbIA

PetRA

MedIteRRANeAN SeA

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A good view of the Theatre, built by

the Nabataeans and expanded by

the Romans.

Petra’s story begins from 10,000 BC when small human settlements became its first inhabitants. Petra’s major inhabitants, the Nabataeans, settled in this place during the 6th to 4th millennium BC. During the next four hundred years, their do-minion spread as far north as Damascus and their capital city was beautified with splendid temples, tombs and many hundreds of freestanding residen-tial and commercial buildings (the less substantial houses and stores have long since crumbled). The earliest tombs and temples, dating from 300 BC, show Egyptian and Assyrian characteristics, and with the Greek and later Roman influences the Nabataeans developed their own distinctive ar-chitectural style. Petra continued to prosper as the Romans carved many buildings as well as a great theater capable of holding 3000 spectators. While the political and economic power was completely in the hands of the Romans, the Nabataeans con-tinued to adhere to the practices of their own re-ligion.

All these structures were laboriously cut into the soft sandstone rock that would have crumbled long ago if not for the fact that this region of Jordan receives very little rain.

However, the magnificent city of Petra had disaster in store for it. First, having fallen under the control of Islam, the commercial importance of the city plummeted. Then, a series of earthquakes in the 7th and 8th centuries destroyed many of the cities in the region, further weakening the agricultural and commercial infrastructure. Neglected, aban-doned to time and the elements, Petra was now

lost to the human world.

The tale of its rediscovery is akin to a Hollywood movie.

A young Swiss adventurer, Johann Burckhardt, was slowly making his way from Damascus to Cairo by a little known and dangerous land route. Fluent in Arabic and posing as a Muslim traveler, he heard tales from desert Bedouins of the extraordinary ru-ins of an ancient city hidden in the remote Sharra Mountains. No European had seen the fabled city, or lived to tell about it, and Burckhardt recognized that he would have to resort to deceit to gain en-trance. Pretending that he intended to sacrifice a goat at the shrine of Aaron, Burckhardt persuaded two Bedouins to escort him along the Valley of Moses and toward the shrine of Aaron. There is only one reasonably safe path leading to the shrine from Wadi Musa and, luckily for Burckhardt, it passed directly through the ruins of Petra.

Thus, the magnificent city of Petra was rediscov-ered.

hIStoRy

: GlOBaltreasure

the earliest tombs

and temples,

dating to 300 bC,

show egyptian

and Assyrian

characteristics

and with the

greek and later

Roman influences

the Nabataeans

developed their

own distinctive

architectural style.

Frankly, the city of Petra is just too beautiful to describe. No, really. Still, out of the several monuments, these four sites we recommend the reader NOT to miss.

SIteS to See

the tReASURy

The kilometer long, cool, and gloomy chasm leads to (or Siq) a long narrow gorge whose steeply rising sides all but obliterate the sun. It leads to Petra opens into a natural square dominated by this magnifi-cent structure. The intricately carved facade glows in the dazzling sun, its architectural splendor pre-sented in all its glory, at least all that remains of it. Perhaps this is the most famous Petra monument

of all. Its elaborately carved facade is alive with a cast of Nabataean deities and mythological char-acters - equestrian figures of the Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux) whose role in the Greek myths was to guide the souls of the dead to the Elysian Fields, dancing Amazons wielding axes, winged Victories, Medusa heads, eagles and various mythical crea-tures - all funerary symbols.

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1 2

1. The Treasury at Petra, Jordan

2. The facade, 40 m high, carved

out from the sandstone cliff

wall,

3. The Urn Tomb which has

an immense courtyard and

main chamber giving an air of

importance.

4. Corinthian Tomb, mostly

damaged by earthquakes

the RoyAl toMbS

The Treasury’s original purpose remains elusive - except that it was not a treasury. Some scholars believe it was a royal tomb, with the king’s burial place in the small chamber at the back; others, a temple, pointing to its temple-like facade and the lack of burial holes. For them the rear chamber was

the sanctuary, complete with ritual ablution basin. It could also have been a memorial mausoleum some say, perhaps for the cult of the defied Obodas I. Whatever it was, it was built magnificently and stands today as one of the most wondrous monu-ments of the world.

Of the 500 plus tombs in this magnificent city, these tombs are the most impressive. The difficult-to-reach Urn tomb, the small multi-colored Silk Tomb, the eclectic Corinthian Tomb, the 3 storey

high Palace Tomb and the badly eroded Sextus Florentinus Tomb give a wonderfully ironic and beautiful use of the dead.

3 4

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1, 2. Across the street where the

people are gathered is the

start of the climb that goes to

the High Place of Sacrifice.

3, 4. Al -Deir Monastery

the hIgh PlACe oF SACRIFICe

Al-deIR - the MoNASteRy

Petra’s High Place of Sacrifice is perhaps the best preserved of all such sacred places of the ancient world. It may have been created by the Nabatae-ans, as the high quality of the stone work would indicate, or it may date back to their predecessors - the Edomites. The rock was leveled to form a shallow courtyard with benches (triclinia) on the

north, east and south sides facing the altar plat-form, on which animal sacrifices were made.

These sacrifices represented the renewal of the close relationship between man and his gods and blood was, of course, a symbol of life.

Al-Deir itself is cut into the mountainside but not dominated by it. One really needs to see a human figure at its base to appreciate the huge scale of the largest facade in Petra. The doorway alone is over 8 m high. The temple/tomb is devoid of decora-tion, but is striking in its simplicity and magnitude. It was an extremely important site for pilgrimages with its carefully orchestrated processional way

terminating in the vast open area in front. A short way beyond, one is rewarded by magnificent views from a new perspective in the direction of the Wadi Araba to the west. It is a tiring climb, but thanks to the other monuments to be seen en route, the mountain scenery and splendid views, the climb is definitely worthwhile.

Petra sights are at their best in the early morning and late afternoon. When the sun warms the mul-ticolored stones, one can view the majesty of Petra as it was seen first when discovered. At these times of day, it feels as if one has walked into a dramatic scene from a movie.

Petra is always breathtaking, and never to be forgotten. This sandstone marvel has made it to the new Seven Wonders of the World and it’s not difficult to see why. Still, one has to see it to believe it and see it one must.

this sandstone

marvel has made

it to the new

Seven Wonders of

the World and it’s

not difficult to see

why.

: GlOBaltreasure

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Text by Prasanna Pandey

K h u K u r i

Parashuram Thapa of Sindhupal-chowk had invited me to come and attack Nepal, but at the same time

he had sent his younger brother west of Gorkha with the instructions to gather a hundred-thousand by inciting the Baisi-Chaubisi states to attack Gorkha from behind, and I learned that they were quar-tered in Hatiya of Pokhara. And I asked them – “Who among you can go and kill him?” No one could find a person suitable, so I said—”Perhaps Jhangal Gurung can,” and sent for him and gave him the short-

sword on my waist, so he went disguised as a gaine singer with fishhooks in hand and a sarangi (a traditional stringed instrument played like a violin) under his arm and a 2-4 dharni (ancient Nepali measuring unit) Mahseer sahar fish, and as the troops in Thapa’s camp rested to eat their morning rice, Jhangal Gurung sought an opportune moment and decapitated Thapa. After thusly securing the rear and ridding of all obstacles by taking in hand the people of the east and the west, I conquered Nepal.”

This excerpt is from Dibya Upadesh, an autobiographical account narrated by King Prithivi Narayan Shah, the unifier and founder of modern Nepal. Dibya Up-adesh mostly relates the ideas and stories as told by the king on how he was able to unify more than fifty independent city states and give an identity to a nation of this rugged Himalayan Republic in the mid eighteenth century.

Prior to the use of firearms in the early 18th century, the Gorkhali soldiers or Gurkha

Uniquely Nepali

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Through the Gurkha warriors, the uniquely tapered blade of the Khukuri has gained popularity all over the world and it is as much a part of our identity as it is a mere fighting apparatus.

History of Khukuri

Making of an Ancient War Apparatus

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warriors were armed with Kora (also re-ferred to in old texts as Khura or Korna). It was a short sword with blades of varying length and width. This Khura was believed to be the true native weapon of Nepal and was mostly worn across the back or on the left side with the sling draped above the chest or over the left shoulder. It was used as an auxiliary weapon and was stuck in the fighters sash directly in front of his body. The indomitable spirit of the Gurkha war-riors and their fearless thirst for victory along with their valor in battle gave a new meaning to the art of war in this rugged mountainous terrain particularly in the Anglo – Nepal war in 1814 which greatly impressed the British and they started re-cruiting Gurkha warriors into their army. Through these Gurkha warriors, the uniquely tapered blade of the Khukuri has gained popularity all over the world and it is as much a part of our identity as it is a mere fighting apparatus.

There are two distinct processes involved in Khukuri making – the forging of the blade and the making of the scabbard or the sheath. The blade is mostly made with high grade carbon steel and the scabbard out of buffalo hide. The handle of the Khukuri can be made out of either buf-falo horn or any type of hard wood. The blade is forged in a coal furnace with re-peated blows from a hammer on an anvil to give it shape. A notch (kaudi) is drafted onto the blade and it has a practical pur-pose of catching an opponent’s blade dur-ing attack. The tempering of the blade is a delicate process and is done by pouring cold water from a kettle onto the hot blade along the cutting edge to give it strength. After tempering the steel, it is filed, sharp-

ened and polished. The handle is prepared by shaping and filing animal horns or hard wood and the tapered edge of the blade is inserted into the handle and fixed in place. The sheath is also prepared using wood or buffalo hide and it also involves a similar process of measuring, shaping and polish-ing to make it worthy of a finely polished blade. Finally, the blade is rubbed gently with oil and stored in the scabbard to com-plete the handmade process. The scabbard of each Khukuri holds two small knives called Karda and Chakmak. Karda is a sharp knife used to hone the master blade and for small cutting jobs. The Chakmak, being rough is used as a flint stone to start fires.

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The origin of Khukuri is speculated to be derived from the ancient cavalry sword of Macedonians called the Machira. The troops of Alexander the Great wielded the Machira when it invaded Northwest India in the 4th cen-tury BC and that particular technique of sword making is believed to have been adapted by local black smiths. Another speculation about its origin arises from local history with historians who believe that Khukuri had been in use in the Kirat Dynasty as far back as during the 7th century and with the Malla kings in the 13th century. The oldest known Khukuri in Nepal is on display at the National Museum in Chhauni. It belonged to Drabya Shah, the founder of the kingdom of Gorkha and is dated 1627 AD.

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The deeply ingrained cultural and religious significance associated with the Khukuri makes it a perfect choice for a souvenir.

A longer version of the Khukuri is often used in ritual sacrifice of buffaloes, goats and sheep in annual festivals. It is found in almost every Nepali home and used as a multi-purpose knife for cutting grass, chopping wood, peeling vegetables, slaughtering game and skinning. It also provides security in its capacity as a weapon to

ward off wild animals in the jungle and an occasional thug. The versatility of the Khukuri as an all purpose knife and a weapon for security makes it an ideal possession for households and travelers alike.

The Khukuri as a Souvenir

NEPAL POLICE TYPE KHUKURI is the

authentic Khukuri used by Nepal Police and the

Armed Police Force. The shape of the blade is similar to

Bhojpure Khukuri and it slightly heavier than the one used by the

Nepali Army. The sheath is made from hide covered by cotton-wood. The blade is 9 inches long with 4 inch handle that is made up of rose wood. It weighs about 700 grams.

CHEETLANGE SPECIAL originates from a village by the same name and is a special issue

Khukuri with narrow blade and a wide grip base. The blade is used for general cutting and light to moderate chopping. Kothimora Khukuri is a special khukuri made for retiring Gurkha or British Army officers. It is manufactured as a memento and has an especially designed scabbard of silver filigree and velvet background matching the color of the regiment. The regimental badges and the crown is mounted in the scabbard as well. The blade is found in varying lengths – the 10 inch

standard Kothimora, the 11 inch Gurkha Badge

Kothimora and the 14 inch Royal Kothimora. The Royal

Kothimora used to be occasionally presented to royal families in Nepal and Britain and is amongst the most

precious and desirable of all Khukuris.

THE BRITISH SERVICE NO. 1 is the

standard khukuri which is issued to the Gurkha soldiers in the British Army and it has garnered fame all over the world. The Khukhuri is used by the soldier as a self-guard or in battle. It is mandatory for British Gurkha soldiers, Singapore Police and Gorkha Reserve Unit in Brunei to carry this Khukuri. The jungle or the pri type Khukuri is used for jungle warfare by the Gurkhas. The shape and size of this Khukuri is similar to Service No. 1 but it is unpolished standard-sized Khukuri. Buffalo horn and hide are used for making handle and case respectively. It weighs about 700 grams with scabbard.

WORLD WAR II OR DEHRADOONE KHUKURI

originated in Nepal but was later used by the Indian and British Gurkha

army. Before World War II it used to be forged in

Dehradoon in India. This type of

Khukuri is slightly bigger, heavier and more curved than the standard issue. The blade is forged from the steel used in railway tracks. The handle is similar to Bhojpure Khukuri and the case is made up of Buffalo hide. The handle is made out of aluminium, brass, horn or wood. This Khukuri is 16 inches long with 5 inch long handle and weighs about 750 grams.

DHANKUTE HORN KHUKURI originated in

Dhankuta of eastern Nepal. It has a beautiful scabbard

evocative of nationalism since it incorporates hand inlayed brass

depictions of Nepal’s National symbols such as the national flag, national bird (Lophophorus), Crossed Khukuri and national fish (Asla) and the king’s crown. The scabbard is made up of wood or horn and the handle is made up of horn, wood or brass.

Through generations, Khukuris have gained popularity as the national weapon of Nepal and its production has been localized to districts such as Bhojpur, Dhankuta, Salyan; Bhojpure khukuri being the most popular and well recognized. Bhojpur is an eastern city in Nepal well known for its Khukuri craftsmanship. BHOJPURE KHUKURI is not a military issue but is heavier than the standard blade Khukuri. The blade is 10 or 11 inches long with a 5 inch handle. The handle is made up of buffalo horn or wood and the scabbard is made up of buffalo leather. There are often engravings of dragons, temples or figurines of gods and goddesses on the blade and weighs about 750 grams.

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Variations of Khukuri

Availabile atThe versatility in types and uses of this multi-purpose knife make it an ideal souvenir that also has many practical uses.It can also be regarded as a symbol of national heritage and rich culture that defines life in Nepal. A handmade Khukuri is an affordable item that is evocative of all that is uniquely Nepal.

Name ChItlANge khUkURI

Size 13 INCh blAde 5.5 hANdle

Price Range RS. 2,200 to RS. 3,000

Primary Use CUttINg, ShoWPIeCe, SkINNINg ANd MANy otheR USe

Weight 900 gMS

Name dhANkUte khUkURI

Size 5 - 18 INCh blAde 3 - 10 INCh hANdle

Price Range FoR 5 INCh RS. 1,600 FoR 18 INCh RS. 6,000

Primary Use PRIMARIly deCoRAtIve PURPoSe

Weight dePeNdS oN SIze

Name bRItISh SeRvICe No. 1

Size 10.5 INCh blAde 5 INCh hANdle

Price Range RS. 2,000 to RS. 3,000

Primary Use StANdARd khUkURI, CeReMoNIAl IN bRItISh PARAde

Weight 700 gMS

Name jUNgle khUkURI

Size SAMe AS bRItISh SeRvICe No. 1

Price Range RS. 2,000 to RS. 2,800

Primary Use tRAININg PURPoSe IN the jUNgle.

Weight 700 gMS

Name bhojPURe khUkURI

Size 10.5 blAde 5 INCh hANdle

Price Range RS. 2,500 to RS. 3,500

Primary Use NoRMAl geNeRAl USe

Weight 750 gMS

NePAleSe khUkURI hoUSe Pvt. ltd

Amrit Marg, Thamel-29

www.nepalesekhukuri.com

khUkURI hoUSe

Sat ghumti, thamel, kathmandu

www.khukuriblades.com

gurkha khukuri/khukri house

Patan, lalitpur,Nepal

www.gurkhakhukurihouse.com

Also available at:

Name NePAl PolICe

Size 9 INCh blAde 5 INCh hANdle

Price Range RS. 1,500 to RS. 2,300

Primary Use PolICe USe

Weight 700 gMS

Name WoRld WAR II

Size 11 INCh blAde 5 INCh hANdle

Price Range RS. 2,500 to RS. 3,500

Primary Use USed IN WW II.

Weight 750 gMS

Name kothIMoRA

Size 10, 11 oR 14 INCh blAde 5 INCh hANdle

Price Range RS. 14,000 to RS. 25,000

Primary Use AS A MeMeNto

Weight dePeNdS oN SIze

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A BEAUTIFUL DiSaSter

FestIvalWaTcH

Text by Utsav Shakya | Photos by Rocky Prajapati

The Bisket Jatra of Bhaktapur in Kathmanu Valley is infamous for the inevitable fights that break out

every year at this popular festival. This fes-tival is celebrated on the first day of the Nepali New Year and is observed as an of-ficial holiday. Around two thousand years ago, king Bikramaditya started a Nepalese solar calendar. This is still the one that Ne-pali people follow today to keep up with the seasons and the many, many festivals that punctuate the year. This calendar is known as the Bikram Sambat. In Bhakta-pur, 15 kilometers east of Kathmandu, the

New Year celebrations takes place with the grand and a bit rowdy Bisket Jatra. Who re-ally wants a sober uneventful festival any-ways?

Bisket commemorates the Hindu epic, the battle of Mahabharata, with the wooden pole symbolizing the victory of good over evil. After two days, images of the Hindu god Bhairab and his female counterpart Bhadra are enshrined in two large, in-tricately decorated chariots and pulled through crowds of cheering on-lookers. This pulling of the chariot is what makes

the festival so popular amongst locals as well as visitors who come to this idyllic town to just watch the chariot make its customary rounds or maybe even get into the crowd and get an experience of a life time.

The chariots parade the numerous idols of gods and goddesses between the sub-cities of Tigani and Nagadesh. The chariots are made solely of wood and jute rope. No metal is used in such a huge structure, every part of which represents a specific religious deity. On the eve of the Nepali

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New Year, such a chariot with idols from numer-ous temples around Tigani together with a huge procession of devotees pulling it is moved towards Nagadesh. The chariot carries idols of Nil Barahi. Another similar chariot is also made ready carrying the idols of Ganesh in Nagadesh. The Sindur Jatra also called the Abir Jatra is started in Bode as the two chariots carrying all the idols of the area are paraded all around all the temples there.

An ancient festival, there is something very pure about the entire celebration right from its use of a chariot made with ancient methods to the pulling of the chariot around town. Red vermillion, a sign of purity and prosperity colors the air as the now huger procession starts the next journey. Before the chariots are pulled by the devotees, Chhyang - local liquor made of out rice is served all around. Tipsy or drunk youth then race through the narrow streets Bode pulling at the ropes tied to the chariot.

When the chariot reaches the center of the town, a tug-of-war between the inhabitants of the two neighborhoods takes place. The winners of the tug-of-war are considered blessed with good fortune for

the coming year. This festival goes on for nine days. A tall wooden ceremonial pole called yosin is also erected in one of the main squares during the fes-tival. Amidst all the chaos, a part of the procession parading around Bode is the musical Dhimey Ba-ja-playing ensemble. Consisting mainly of senior, seasoned musicians, the troupe may also sometimes make room for new members. Playing for this festi-val is a treat to any Dhimey Baja player.

At the lead of it all, moving in a trance is a man with his tongue pierced with an alarmingly large piece of metal. This tongue piercing ceremony is what starts off the chariot in its journey on the eve of the 1st of Baisakh, the first day of the year. The proces-sion ends at Tigne on the 2nd of Baisakh where the chariot that was brought to Nagadesh is returned.

Fights usually break out during the festival, the ine-briated chariot pullers are a moody lot. Standoffs with the police also turn into a full blown riot some-times. But amidst it all, there’s a sense of calm and a quiet that once can’t see but only feel, once you’re in the middle of things at Bisket Jatra.

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SoUth ASIA ChINA tRAde FAIR WheN: 8th April- 11th April WheRe: Bhrikutimandap, Exhibition HalldeSCRIPtIoN: Organized by Nepal-China Executives Council-NCEC, to promote the South Asian and China Trade at the same platform with 150 stalls exhibiting various range of trade and tourism market.CoNtACt: 4117101

ARt oF lIvINg CoURSe FoR All AgeS WheN: Starts every MondayWheRe: Dil Niwas, Chhakubaku Marga-132, New Baneshwor, KathmandudeSCRIPtIoN: Know Breath , Know Life - No Breath, No Life. Self-development and stress elimination programs that empower people to face life’s challenges gracefully. These workshops equip the participants with skills, and techniques that enhance the quality of their lives.CoNtACt: 9803039750, yes.in.nepal@gmail.com, www.artofliving.org.np

kIMFF 2010 SUbMISSIoN WheN: 1st April-15th August-2010WheRe: Himal Association (a non for profit organization), Patandhoka, LalitpurdeSCRIPtIoN: The 8th edition of KIMFF is supposed to happen from 9-12 Dec 2010 and the submission will start from the early April. The detailed information on entries guidelines is available at www.kimff.orgCoNtACt: +977 1 5542544, kimff@himalassociation.org

WheN: 25th March-23rd May -2010

WheRe:

MELBOURNE: Daily from 25 March 2010 @ Greater

Union City Cinema, 131 Russell Street, Melbourne

BRISBANE: Daily from 15 April 2010 @ Birch Carroll

& Coyle Brisbane City Regent, 167 Queen Street

Brisbane

SYDNEY: Daily from 6 May 2010 @ Beverly Hill

Cinema, 447/453 King Georges Road, Beverly Hills

deSCRIPtIoN: Directed and script by Sanjay

Srinivas, the motion film is uniquely presented

unfailingly, the unique aspects of Nepal, its rich

culture, it’s wonderful people and the extraordinary

benevolence of nature gifted with a vision that is

both energizing and exciting.

CoNtACt: 0414 724 042, +61 414 724 042,

info@godlivesinthehimalayas.com,

info@solangture.com, www.solangture.com

ICIMod Photo CoNteSt – MoUNtAIN bIodIveRSIty SUbMISSIoNWheN: 10 May 2010

oRgANIzeR: International Centre for Integrated

Mountain Development (ICIMOD)

deSCRIPtIoN: With the slogan ‘Biodiversity is life.

Biodiversity is our life’, ICIMOD calls submission for

the Photo Contest on the biodiversity of the Hindu

Kush Himalayan region and its role in people’s

lives which reflects the theme for the International

Day for Biological Diversity - 22 May 2010,

‘Biodiversity, Development and Poverty Alleviation’.

CoNtACt: photocontest@icimod.org,

http://www.icimod.org/photocontest/2010/

RoleS oF the INdIAN FIlM heRoINe

the Changing ethos 1957-2005 WheN: 14th April- 18th April WheRe: Nepal Tourism Board-NTBdeSCRIPtIoN: Celebrating the changing ethos of Indian cinema Heroines, Indian Cultural Centre in collaboration with NTB, is organizing an Indian Film Festival this April.CoNtACt:4412629(Passes can be collected from Indian Cultural Centre, Bal Mandir, Naxal on 11th/12th April)

PlACeS ANd FACeS oF NePAl-Photo exhIbItIoN “explore Nepal, explore life” WheN: 10th April -2010oRgANIzeR: tourism development endeavors (tUde) , baneshwor, kathmandu, NepalWheRe: Basantapur, KathmandudeSCRIPtIoN: An amateur photo exhibition on places and faces of Nepal to promote Nepal tourism year 2011. Entries are welcomed till late of the March and are requested to contact TUDE.CoNtACt:9841265165, dev.endeavors@gmail.com

WoRld exPo 2010 ShANghAI, ChINA WheN: May 1st – October 31st -2010 WheRe: Shanghai, ChinadeSCRIPtIoN: World Expo 2010 Shanghai, China with the theme “Better City, Better Life” providing great example of sustainable and harmonious living organized under 5.28 sq.km. ( largest exhibiting area in the history) will exhibit expo’s, event and many others .CoNtACt:8621-22062010, Fax: 8621-22060670, http://en.expo2010.cn/

kjC ChevRolet CoNCeRt SeRIeSWheN: 27th March-2010(2:30-5:00PM) WheRe: KJC Moksh Auditorium, Jhamsikhel, LalitpurdeSCRIPtIoN: Enjoy performances by KJC Choir, KJC Big Band & Mariano Abello Quartet and other great performances.CoNtACt: 5013554 (Free Entrance)

ChANdRA SURyA MUSICAl PRogRAM-2067WheN:17th April-2010(12:00-5:00PM) WheRe: City Hall, Pradarsani Marga, KathmandudeSCRIPtIoN: Organized by Better World Family Nepal with the motto of “Music for Change & Development”, it supports the education for the first school in Ramechhap. Performances by national & international artists, Ani Choying Drolma, Kunti Moktan, Pramod Nirwan, Paribartan and others including dance, food festival, mart mela, fun games drama and documentary screenings would entertain the audiences. CoNtACt:4810163, 9751005424

CAUCASIAN ChAlk CIRCle PReMIeRe WheN:23rd March -2010, 5:30PMWheRe: Gurukul Theatre, KathmandudeSCRIPtIoN: Directed by Max Webster and Mia Theil and translated by Bhimlal Aryal on the script of Barlett Brecht the play is being played for the first time presenting the diverse dramatic field with a range of scenes expecting audiences to be entertained.CoNtACt:4810163, 9751005424

94 www.nextyatra.comeveNTs&TIps

God Lives in the himaLayas World Premier in Australia

To enlist your events in this section, mail us your details at

events@traveltimes-mag.com

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