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prepared for Supported by Implemented by Monitored by Ministry of Rural Development, Govt. of India t e c h n o p a k NABCONS TRAINING CURRICULUM

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prepared for

Supported by Implemented by Monitored by

Ministry of Rural Development, Govt. of India

t e c h n o p a k

NABCONS

TRAINING CURRICULUM

MoRD Page 2 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Table of Contents

1. SEJS: An Introduction ........................................................................................................................... 10

2. Jute: Introduction ................................................................................................................................. 11

2.1. Jute Manufacturing Process.......................................................................................................... 11

2.2. Jute Products ................................................................................................................................ 13

3. Course Matrix ....................................................................................................................................... 15

3.1. List of Modules, Professions and their Job Descriptions .............................................................. 15

4. MODULE 1: SELECTION OF JUTE FIBRE ................................................................................................ 16

4.1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 16

4.2. Jute Fibre: Different Types ............................................................................................................ 16

4.2.1. Different Grades and their Properties ...................................................................................... 16

4.2.2. Basis of Grading ........................................................................................................................ 17

4.2.3. Grading by Kutcha Balers .......................................................................................................... 17

4.2.4. Quality Parameters ................................................................................................................... 17

4.3. Objective ....................................................................................................................................... 18

4.4. Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 18

4.5. Quality Assessment by Hand and Eye Method (Visual Inspection) .............................................. 18

4.5.1. Strength .................................................................................................................................... 19

4.5.2. Root Content ............................................................................................................................. 19

4.5.3. Defects ...................................................................................................................................... 19

4.5.4. Colour ........................................................................................................................................ 20

4.5.5. Fineness .................................................................................................................................... 20

4.5.6. Bulk Density .............................................................................................................................. 20

4.6. Method Study ............................................................................................................................... 21

4.6.1. Selector ..................................................................................................................................... 21

4.6.2. Root Cutter ................................................................................................................................ 22

4.7. Do’s and Don’ts ............................................................................................................................. 22

4.8. Types of Mazdoor ......................................................................................................................... 23

4.9. Training Gantt Chart ..................................................................................................................... 24

5. MODULE 2: BATCHING OF JUTE FIBRE ................................................................................................. 25

5.1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 25

5.2. Objective ....................................................................................................................................... 25

5.3. Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 25

5.3.1. Emulsion Application ................................................................................................................ 25

5.3.2. Softening and Lubrication of Jute Fibre .................................................................................... 26

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5.4. Softener Frame Operator.............................................................................................................. 26

5.4.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 26

5.4.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 27

5.4.2.1. Softener Feeder .................................................................................................................... 27

5.4.2.2. Softener Receiver .................................................................................................................. 28

5.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 28

5.5. Spreader Frame Operator ............................................................................................................. 29

5.5.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 29

5.5.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 30

5.5.2.1. Spreader Feeder .................................................................................................................... 30

5.5.2.2. Spreader Receiver ................................................................................................................. 31

5.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 31

5.6. Piling Operator .............................................................................................................................. 31

5.6.1. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 32

5.6.1.1. Piler ....................................................................................................................................... 32

5.6.2. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 32

5.7. Types of Mazdoor ......................................................................................................................... 33

5.8. Training Gantt Chart ..................................................................................................................... 34

6. MODULE 3: CARDING OF JUTE SLIVER ................................................................................................. 35

6.1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 35

6.2. Objective ....................................................................................................................................... 35

6.3. Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 35

6.3.1. Root Cutting (for hard roots) .................................................................................................... 35

6.3.2. Dollop ........................................................................................................................................ 35

6.3.3. Parallelization of Jute Fibre ....................................................................................................... 36

6.4. Breaker Card Frame Operator ...................................................................................................... 36

6.4.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 36

6.4.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 37

6.4.2.1. Feeder- Hand Feed ................................................................................................................ 37

6.4.2.2. Feeder- Roll Feed .................................................................................................................. 37

6.4.2.3. Receiver................................................................................................................................. 38

6.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 38

6.5. Finisher Card Frame Operator ...................................................................................................... 38

6.5.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 38

6.5.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 39

6.5.2.1. Feeder- Roll Feed .................................................................................................................. 39

MoRD Page 4 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6.5.2.2. Receiver................................................................................................................................. 40

6.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 40

6.6. Types of Mazdoor ......................................................................................................................... 41

6.7. Training Gantt Chart ..................................................................................................................... 41

7. MODULE 4: DRAWING OF JUTE SLIVER ............................................................................................... 42

7.1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 42

7.2. Objective ....................................................................................................................................... 42

7.3. Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 42

7.3.1. Attenuation of Jute Sliver ......................................................................................................... 42

7.3.2. Doubling of the Slivers .............................................................................................................. 42

7.4. Drawing Frame Operator .............................................................................................................. 43

7.4.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 43

7.4.1.1. Mackhigh Push Bar Drawing machine .................................................................................. 43

7.4.1.2. Screw Gill / Spiral Drawing machine ..................................................................................... 43

7.4.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 44

7.4.2.1. Feeder- First Draw Frame ..................................................................................................... 44

7.4.2.2. Receiver & Feeder- Second & Finisher Draw Frame ............................................................. 45

7.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 45

7.5. Types of Mazdoor ......................................................................................................................... 46

7.6. Training Gantt Chart ..................................................................................................................... 47

8. MODULE 5: SPINNING OF JUTE SLIVER ................................................................................................ 48

8.1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 48

8.2. Objective ....................................................................................................................................... 48

8.3. Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 48

8.3.1. Attenuation of Jute Sliver ......................................................................................................... 48

8.3.2. Twisting of the Sliver ................................................................................................................. 48

8.3.3. Winding of the Yarn .................................................................................................................. 49

8.3.4. Doffing of the Yarn Bobbins ...................................................................................................... 49

8.4. Spinning Frame ............................................................................................................................. 50

8.4.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 50

8.4.1.1. Machine Types ...................................................................................................................... 50

8.4.1.2. Slip Draft Spinning Frame ..................................................................................................... 50

8.4.1.3. Apron Draft Spinning Frame ................................................................................................. 50

8.4.1.4. Machine Specifications ......................................................................................................... 51

8.4.1.5. Pitch ...................................................................................................................................... 51

8.4.1.6. Lift ......................................................................................................................................... 51

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8.4.1.7. Spindle R.P.M. ....................................................................................................................... 51

8.4.1.8. Twist Constant ...................................................................................................................... 51

8.4.1.9. Draft Constant ....................................................................................................................... 51

8.4.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 52

8.4.2.1. Spinner .................................................................................................................................. 52

8.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 52

8.4.4. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 54

8.5. Types of Mazdoor ......................................................................................................................... 54

8.6. Training Gantt Chart ..................................................................................................................... 55

9. MODULE 6: WARP WINDING AND TWISTING OF JUTE YARN ............................................................. 56

9.1. Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 56

9.2. Objective of Spool Winding .......................................................................................................... 56

9.3. Methodology ................................................................................................................................. 56

9.4. Spool Winding Frame .................................................................................................................... 57

9.4.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 57

9.4.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 59

9.4.2.1. Warp Winding Operator ....................................................................................................... 59

9.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 59

9.5. Twisting Frame .............................................................................................................................. 61

9.5.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 61

9.5.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 62

9.5.2.1. Twister .................................................................................................................................. 62

9.5.1. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 62

9.6. Precision Winding Frame .............................................................................................................. 63

9.6.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 63

9.6.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 64

9.6.2.1. Precision Winding Operator .................................................................................................. 64

9.6.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 64

9.7. Faults in Winding .......................................................................................................................... 65

9.8. Hard Wastes and its Control ......................................................................................................... 66

9.9. Types of Mazdoor ......................................................................................................................... 67

9.10. Training Gantt Chart ................................................................................................................. 67

10. MODULE 7: COP WINDING OF JUTE YARN ...................................................................................... 68

10.1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................. 68

10.2. Objective ................................................................................................................................... 68

10.3. Dimensions and Yarn Content of Cop ....................................................................................... 68

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10.4. Methodology ............................................................................................................................. 68

10.5. Cop Winding Frame .................................................................................................................. 69

10.5.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 69

10.5.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 71

10.5.2.1. Cop Winding Operator .......................................................................................................... 71

10.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 71

10.6. Faults in Cop Winding ............................................................................................................... 72

10.7. Hard Wastes and its Control ..................................................................................................... 73

10.8. Productivity: Control Measures ................................................................................................ 73

10.9. Types of Mazdoor ..................................................................................................................... 73

10.10. Training Gantt Chart ................................................................................................................. 74

11. MODULE 8: SIZING AND BEAMING OF JUTE YARN ......................................................................... 75

11.1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................. 75

11.2. Objective ................................................................................................................................... 75

11.3. Methodology ............................................................................................................................. 75

11.3.1. Creeling of yarn bobbins ........................................................................................................... 75

11.3.2. Denting ...................................................................................................................................... 76

11.3.3. Winding the yarn on the beam ................................................................................................. 76

11.3.4. Minimization of yarn fault ........................................................................................................ 76

11.4. Sizing and Beaming Machine .................................................................................................... 76

11.4.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 76

11.4.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 78

11.4.2.1. Feeder ................................................................................................................................... 78

11.4.2.2. Receiver................................................................................................................................. 79

11.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 79

11.5. Waste Control in Sizing and Beaming Machine ........................................................................ 80

11.6. Types of Mazdoor ..................................................................................................................... 80

11.7. Training Gantt Chart ................................................................................................................. 81

12. MODULE 9: WEAVING OF JUTE YARN .............................................................................................. 82

12.1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................. 82

12.2. Objective ................................................................................................................................... 82

12.3. Specification and Quality of Jute fabrics ................................................................................... 83

12.4. Methodology ............................................................................................................................. 84

12.4.1. Primary Motions ....................................................................................................................... 84

12.4.1.1. Shedding ............................................................................................................................... 84

12.4.1.2. Picking ................................................................................................................................... 84

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12.4.1.3. Beating .................................................................................................................................. 84

12.4.2. Secondary Motions ................................................................................................................... 85

12.4.2.1. Let-Off ................................................................................................................................... 85

12.4.2.2. Take-Up ................................................................................................................................. 85

12.4.3. Auxiliary Motions ...................................................................................................................... 85

12.4.3.1. Warp Protector Motion (fast reed type) ............................................................................... 85

12.4.3.2. Weft Fork .............................................................................................................................. 85

12.4.3.3. Oscillating or Vibrating Backrest ........................................................................................... 85

12.4.3.4. Automatic cop change arrangement or Automatic Cop Loader Motion (Ecco-Loader) ....... 85

12.5. Shuttle Looms ........................................................................................................................... 85

12.5.1. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 85

12.5.2. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 88

12.5.2.1. Weaver .................................................................................................................................. 88

12.5.2.2. Weaving Helper ..................................................................................................................... 89

12.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 89

12.6. Production, Efficiency and Quality ............................................................................................ 90

12.6.1. Improvement in production efficiency ..................................................................................... 90

12.6.2. Improvement in quality ............................................................................................................ 91

12.6.3. Reduction of wastage ............................................................................................................... 91

12.6.4. Fabric Faults: Cause and Remedial Measures ........................................................................... 92

12.7. Types of Mazdoor ..................................................................................................................... 94

12.8. Training Gantt Chart ................................................................................................................. 95

13. MODULE 10: FINISHING OF JUTE CLOTH ......................................................................................... 96

13.1. Introduction .............................................................................................................................. 96

13.2. Objective ................................................................................................................................... 97

13.3. Damping Machine ..................................................................................................................... 97

13.3.1. Objective ................................................................................................................................... 97

13.3.2. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 97

13.3.2.1. Nozzle Type Damping Machine ............................................................................................. 97

13.3.3. Method Study ........................................................................................................................... 98

13.3.3.1. Feeder- Damping................................................................................................................... 98

13.3.3.2. Receiver- Damping ................................................................................................................ 98

13.3.4. Do’s and Don’ts ......................................................................................................................... 99

13.4. Calendaring Machine ................................................................................................................ 99

13.4.1. Objective ................................................................................................................................... 99

13.4.2. Machine Details ........................................................................................................................ 99

MoRD Page 8 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.4.3. Method Study ......................................................................................................................... 100

13.4.3.1. Feeder- Calendaring ............................................................................................................ 100

13.4.3.2. Receiver- Calendaring ......................................................................................................... 101

13.4.4. Do’s and Don’ts ....................................................................................................................... 101

13.5. Lapping Machine ..................................................................................................................... 102

13.5.1. Objective ................................................................................................................................. 102

13.5.2. Machine Details ...................................................................................................................... 102

13.5.3. Method Study ......................................................................................................................... 103

13.5.3.1. Feeder- Lapping .................................................................................................................. 103

13.5.3.2. Receiver- Lapping ................................................................................................................ 104

13.5.4. Do’s and Don’ts ....................................................................................................................... 104

13.6. Cutting Machine ...................................................................................................................... 105

13.6.1. Objective ................................................................................................................................. 105

13.6.2. Machine Details ...................................................................................................................... 105

13.6.3. Method Study ......................................................................................................................... 106

13.6.3.1. Cutting Machine Operator .................................................................................................. 106

13.6.4. Do’s and Don’ts ....................................................................................................................... 106

13.7. Types of Mazdoor ................................................................................................................... 107

13.8. Training Gantt Chart ............................................................................................................... 108

14. MODULE 11: SACK SEWING OF JUTE CLOTH ................................................................................. 109

14.1. Introduction ............................................................................................................................ 109

14.2. Objective ................................................................................................................................. 109

14.3. Sack Sewing Machine .............................................................................................................. 109

14.3.1. Types of Machines .................................................................................................................. 109

14.3.2. Types of Stitch ......................................................................................................................... 110

14.3.3. Types of Seam ......................................................................................................................... 111

14.3.4. Sewing Defects of Jute Bags: Causes and Remedial Measures ............................................... 113

14.3.5. Method Study ......................................................................................................................... 114

14.3.5.1. Hemming Operator ............................................................................................................. 114

14.3.5.2. Herackle Operator............................................................................................................... 115

14.3.5.3. Branding Operator .............................................................................................................. 116

14.3.5.4. Bundler ................................................................................................................................ 117

14.3.6. Do’s and Don’ts ....................................................................................................................... 117

14.4. Types of Mazdoor ................................................................................................................... 118

14.5. Training Gantt Chart ............................................................................................................... 118

15. MODULE 12: PACKING OF JUTE BAG ............................................................................................. 119

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15.1. Introduction ............................................................................................................................ 119

15.2. Objective ................................................................................................................................. 119

15.3. Methodology ........................................................................................................................... 120

15.4. Baling Press Machine .............................................................................................................. 120

15.4.1. Machine Details ...................................................................................................................... 120

15.4.2. Method Study ......................................................................................................................... 121

15.4.2.1. Press Operator- Bag & Cloth ............................................................................................... 121

15.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts ....................................................................................................................... 121

15.5. Types of Mazdoor ................................................................................................................... 122

15.6. Training Gantt Chart ............................................................................................................... 123

16. MODULE 13: MAZDOOR ................................................................................................................. 124

16.1. Objective ................................................................................................................................. 124

16.2. Types of Mazdoor ................................................................................................................... 124

16.3. Training Gantt Chart ............................................................................................................... 125

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1. SEJS: An Introduction

The ‘Skills for Employment in Jute Sector’ (SEJS) is a special project under Swaranjayanti Gram

Swarojgar Yojana (SGSY) scheme funded by Ministry of Rural Development (MoRD), Government

of India with the aim of creation of gainful employment in Jute Sector.

Ministry of Rural Development, Government of India has in terms of its letter no J-

17046/93/2009-SGSY-II (SP) dated 16th December 2010 has appointed Technopak for

implementation of this project.

As a part of the SEJS initiative, we plan to train and place ‘Below Poverty Line (BPL)’ youth

belonging to rural areas as workers in Jute Mills. Once training is imparted, these BPL youth will

be provided employment in Jute Mills.

MoRD has appointed NABARD Consulting Services as a Coordinating and Monitoring agency and

Technopak Advisors as an Implementing Partner for this initiative.

MoRD Page 11 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

2. Jute: Introduction

The Jute Textiles Industry occupies an important place in the

Indian economy. It is one of the major industries in the

eastern region, particularly in West Bengal. It supports

nearly 4 million farm families, besides providing direct

employment to about 2.6 Lakh industrial workers and

livelihood to another 1.4 Lakh persons in the tertiary sector

and allied activities. The Jute Industry contributes to the

export earnings to the tune of nearly Rs. 1200 Crores

annually. The production process in the Jute Industry goes

through a variety of activities, which include cultivation of

raw Jute, processing of Jute fibers, spinning, weaving,

bleaching, dyeing, finishing and marketing of both the raw

Jute and its finished products. The Jute Industry is labor

intensive and as such, its labor-output ratio is high in spite of

various difficulties being faced by the industry.

For centuries jute has been an integral part of eastern

regions of the Indian subcontinent. Even today this region is

the single largest producer of raw jute. In the nineteenth and early twentieth century much of

the raw jute produced was exported to the United Kingdom where it was processed. Post 1970s

this stopped due to the popularity of synthetic fibers.

The invention of new end-uses along with the preference for eco-friendly and bio-degradable

products the world over has been an important factor for the increasing demand for Jute

products. Jute has entered many diverse sectors of industry, where natural fibres are gradually

becoming better substitutes. Among these industries are paper, celluloid products (films), non-

woven textiles, composites (pseudo-wood), and Geotextiles.

Cumulative exports of jute goods during 2008-09 stood at Rs. 1066 Crores which is lower by 10%

as compared to 2007-08. This declining trend in cumulative exports in value terms has been

mainly attributable to decline in exports of Hessian by 58%. However, exports of Sacking

increased by 54% and yarn increased by 2% during the same period.

2.1. Jute Manufacturing Process

The steps involved in the Jute manufacturing is indicated through a flowchart shown

below:

Fig 2.a Jute Fibres

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JUTE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Fig 2.b Jute Manufacturing Process

MoRD Page 13 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

2.2. Jute Products

Hessian

It is a plain woven fabric weighing from 4½ oz to 10 oz a yard

(139.5 gm to 434.5 gm per metre) with a normal basic width of

40” (101.60 cm). A large variety of special hessians are

manufactured by the Indian industry viz. bright, fine and dyed /

printed Hessians, dyed scrim fabrics, jute/ cotton and

jute/synthetic union fabrics, jute/cotton buckram fabrics. They

are used for packing, carpet backing, cement cleavage fabric for

building trade, linings for clothing and furnishing.

Sacking

A general name applied to coarse fabrics used chiefly for the

making of bags or sacks. They are made of jute/temp/flax and the

number of threads per centimeter may vary from 2 to over 12.

Sacking is a heavy, loosely-woven cloth, either plain or twill,

weighing from 12 oz to 24 oz a yard (327 gm to 744.1 gm a metre)

of different widths. The fabric is ordinarily made from the lower

grades of fibre. It is used as a container for a variety of

commodities.

Yarn

It is of two typed: traditional and diversified.

Traditional yarns may be 100 % jute yarns ranging from 4.8 lb to

48 lb or heavier yarns, 80 -150 lbs or even twines and ropes.

These are used for traditional packaging such as sacking hessian,

carpet backing, as filing yarns for woven pile carpets, as

insulation material in the cable industry, fuse yarn in the

explosive industry, foot wear industry, geo-textile applications, as

a rope in hipping industry and some industrial woven cloth.

Diversified yarns may be fine yarns, 4lb and below. They may also

be special yarns such as bulk yarns, covered yarns, fancy yarns or

they can be technical and blended yarns. They are used in high-

value added furnishings, carpets, decorative fabrics, home

textiles, made-ups, technical fabrics, apparel, eco-friendly

products, carry bags, soft luggage.

Carpet Backing Cloth

It is a special quality broad-loom hessian weighing from 6.3 oz to 13.25 oz per yard (195.3

gm to 410.8 gm per metre) with the width range varying from 73.8 cm to 281.9 cm for

narrow carpet backing and 284.5 cm to 508 cm and above for wide carpet backing. It is

widely used as primary and/or secondary backing in tufted carpet industry.

Fig 2.c Hessian

Fig 2.d Sacking

Fig 2.e Jute Yarn- Traditional

Fig 2.f Jute Yarn- Diversified

MoRD Page 14 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Food Grade Jute Products

It is a hydrocarbon free packaging material. These are odor free and have to abide by

strict international standards. The use of food grade packaging is mandatory for certain

industries like coffee.

Geotextiles

Jute Geo-textiles (JGT) is a kind of natural technical textiles laid in

or on soil to improve its engineering properties. Jute is rick in

cellulose and lignin and is eco friendly.

Lifestyle Products

Jute is also used in lifestyle products such as:

Home and office dressing, door and window curtains and

sofa and cushion covers

Table covers, tea cosy, place mat, napkins for table setting

and tea coasters

Mats, matting, carpets and floor covering

Wall decoration and handicraft items

Shopping and travel bags

Fig 2.g Jute in Geotextiles

Fig 2.h Jute- Lifestyle Products

MoRD Page 15 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

3. Course Matrix

3.1. List of Modules, Professions and their Job Descriptions

Module Department Job Description

1.a Selector Opening the bales. Selection of jute materials as per required quality. Making morah of

desired weight and putting it in barrow/pallette.

1.b Root Cutter Opening the bales. Selection of jute materials as per required quality. Cutting of root,

making morah of desired weight and putting it in barrow/pallette.

2.a Softener Feeder Taking the morahs from the pallete/barrow, spreading the same over the feed table of

the softener machine.

2.b Softener Receiver Receiving of the morahs coming out from the machine at the other end, Making of the

morah and putting it on the pallette/barrow.

2.c Softener Piler To collect the material from the receiving end of the softener machine, Making a pile.

2.d Spreader Feeder Taking the morahs from the pallete/barrow, spreading the same over the feed table of

the spreader machine.

2.e Spreader Receiver-cum-Piller Receiving of the rolls coming out from the machine at the other end and putting it in the

piles.

1.c Root Cutter (Only for Hand Feed Card) Taking the morah from the pallette, cutting the roots and again putting the morahs at the

feed end of the card.

3.a Feeder - Hand Feed Feeding of morahs over the feed table by spreading them uniformly and at regular

interval.

3.b Feeder - Roll Feed To carry the roll from the pile position and feeding them into the card.

3.c Receiver Putting the sliver from the drawing roller to the pressing roller. Collecting the rolls from

the roll former and feeding them into the next card.

4.a Feeder (Types- Rotary/Screw Driving Gill-bars) Collection of rolls from the finisher card/sliver cans from drawing stage, and feeding

them into the next drawing.

4.b Receiver (Types- Rotary/Screw Driving Gill-bars) Receiving the cans from the earlier drawing.

5.a Spinner

(Types- Slip Draft, Apron Draft )

Passing the sliver from retaining roller and taking the yarn till bobbin. Piece-up the yarn

in case of any breakages. Doff the bobbin.

5.b Bobbin Carrier Replace the filled bobbin with the empty bobbin and carry the bobbins to the winding

area.

6.a Warp Winding Operator Put the bobbin on the spindle, piecing the yarn, taking the yarn upto empty

cone/cheese, starting the cone, doffing of the cones after finishing.

6.c Precision Winding Operator (Export Yarns) Put the bobbin/first winding spool on the spindle, pieceing the yarn, taking the yarn

upto the spool, doff the spool.

6.c Twister Take the spools from the side of the machine and put it on the creel. Passing the yarn

from drawing roller to the bobbin/pirn. Piece-up the yarn in case of any breakages. Doff

the bobbin. Carry the finished bobbin upto the precision winding place.

7 Cop Winding 7.a Cop Winding Operator

(Types- Manual & Semi-automatic)

Put the bobbin on the spindle, piecing the yarn, taking the yarn upto cop, starting the

spindle, doffing of the cops and making bundles after finishing.

8.a Feeder (both) Take the spools/beam from the side of the machine and put it on the creel. Pass it to the

warp beam.

8.b Receiver (both) Piece-up the yarn. Start & stop the machine and doff the warp beam.

9.a Weaver

(Types: Manual, Semi-automatic & Shuttleless)

Piece-up the yarn in case of breakages. Loading the shuttle. Start & stop the machine.

Doffing of finishined cloth roll.

9.b Helper Bring the cop bundles and put near the loom. Loading the beam on the loom. Denting,

reeding and wrap it till the cloth beam. Relieving the weaver.

10.a Feeder - Damping Feeding the cloth, controlling the water flow to maintain required moisture level

10.b Receiver - Damping Receiving the cloth, controlling the water flow to maintain required moisture level and

handing over the material for the next process. Segregate defective cloth by visual

inspection.

10.c Feeder - Calendar Feeding the cloth continuously

10.d Receiver - Calendar Receiving the cloth continously and handing over the material for next process.

Segregate defective cloth by visual inspection.

10.e Feeder - Lapping Feeding the cloth

10.f Receiver - Lapping Receiving the cloth

10.g Cutting Machine Operator Feeding & receiving the cloth. Segregate defective cloth by visual inspection.

11.a Hemming Operator Folding as per specifications and Stitching

11.b Herakel Operator Folding as per specifications and Stitching bags

11.c Branding Operator Screen printing

11.d Bundler Counting the number as per specifications, making bundles by stitching and knotting

12 Packing 12.a Press Operator - Bag & Cloth Placing the baling hoops & pack sheet on the ram of the press, then putting the required

number of bundles/cloth over the pack sheet. Performing the pressing operation,

stitching the pack sheet from all sides, locking the baling hoops, releasing the pressure

and removing the pack bales from the press.

13 Mazdoor 13.a All categories of Mazdoors Mostly carrying of materials from one place to another i.e. from one machine to another.

This includes :Jute Bale carrying Mazdoor : bringing of Jute bales from the mokam to the

mill.Spinning Bobbin Carrying Mazdoor : Carrying of bobbins from winding department

to spinning department and vice versa.

Profession

1 Selection

2 Batching

3 Carding

(Breaker, Inter & Finisher)

4 Drawing

(First, Second & Finisher

Passage)

5 Spinning

6 Warp Winding & Twisting

11 Sack-Sewing

8 Sizing & Beaming

9 Weaving

10 Finishing

MoRD Page 16 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

4. MODULE 1: SELECTION OF JUTE FIBRE

4.1. Introduction

Jute is a lingo-cellulosic, multi cellular bast fiber obtained from the plant body or stalk of

Jute plant. There are two important commercial varieties of jute, namely white jute and

Tossa jute. Another type of fiber, similar to jute but of different botanical origin, is widely

used in the jute industry which is known as Mesta. Mesta fiber is coarser in nature than

jute, but is processed similarly to jute and in mixing with jute. So, Mesta is not dealt here

separately, as everything discussed for coarser jute is equally applicable for mesta fiber.

4.2. Jute Fibre: Different Types

Jute that is grown in India is classified in four varieties or categories:

Tossa

White

Mesta

Bimli

Based on the grading, each one is further classified on a scale of 1 to 8 (where 1 is the best

grade and 8 is the worst). The classification is done for Tossa as TD1, TD2 . . . TD8 or for

White as WD1 . . . WD8. The highest production is that of Tossa fibre which accounts for

nearly 78%, followed by White which is 10%.

4.2.1. Different Grades and their Properties

In India with object of enabling the cultivators to get proper price for their fiber, Bureau of

Indian Standards (BIS) introduced a standard for grading of raw jute on the basis of its

quality. Both White and Tossa jute fibers are classified into eight grades, W1-W8, and TD1-

TD8. Each grade is assessed by scoring six characters - strength, fineness, defects, root

contents, colour and density.

The various properties of different grades of White and Tossa types of Jute Fibers are

shown as below:

Grade Properties

W1/TD1 Very good strength and colour, very fine heavy bodied fibre, free from major and minor defects. Maximum root content: W1-10%, TD1-5%.

W2/TD2 Good strength and colour, fine heavy bodied fibre, free from major and minor defects. Maximum root content: W2-15%, TD2-10%.

W3/TD3 Fairly good colour and strength well separated medium bodied fibre, free from major and minor defects except a few specks. Maximum root content: W3-20%, TD3-15%.

W4/TD4 Fair, average strength and colour, well separated medium bodied fibre, free from major defects and substantially free from specks and loose sticks. Maximum root content: W4-26 % , TD4-20 % .

W5/TD5 Average strength and colour, fine from major defects. Maximum root content: W5-36%, TD5-26%.

W6/TD6 Average strength, free from centre root and dazed/over-retted fibre and reasonably free from entangled sticks. Maximum root content: W6-46%, TD6 - 35%.

MoRD Page 17 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Grade Properties

W7/TD7 Weak mixed fibre with maximum root content: W7-57%. TD7-35%.

W8/TD8 Entangled or any other jute not suitable for any of the above grade but of commercial value.

4.2.2. Basis of Grading

The main factors which differs one grade of Jute fibre fiber from the other are:

Quality varies from place to place and season to season

Topography

Nature of Soil and Water

Rainfall

Humidity

Practices followed in Growing

Methods used in retting extraction of fiber

Washing

Drying

Storage

The various parameters based on which the Grading is normally done are:

Length

Strength

Colour

Lustre

Weight

General qualities like softness, smoothness, distinctness and uniformity of the

fibre

Proportion of cuttings, hard-centered fiber and harsh crop ends

Proportion of faults such as roots, bark, sticks, specks, knots, runners and

watermarks

4.2.3. Grading by Kutcha Balers

Jute fibre after extraction is graded by Kutcha Balers as:

Top Very Strong Fibers

Middle Strong Fiber and Average color and luster

Bottom Sound Fiber, medium strength, not suitable for higher grades

C-Bottom Medium strength fibre, any colour

X-Bottom (Cross Bottom) Weak hard jute

4.2.4. Quality Parameters

The Quality Parameters on which grading is normally practiced in Jute Industry are:

Strength

Root Content

Defects

MoRD Page 18 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Colour

Fineness

Bulk-Density

4.3. Objective

The main objectives of Selection of Jute are:

To select the different grades of jute for different product`s quality

To separate the root portion from the reed

To make the Jute ready for the softening department

To prepare the Jute Morah of required weight

4.4. Methodology

4.5. Quality Assessment by Hand and Eye Method (Visual Inspection)

The quality of jute fibre is judged by its suitability for the production of various types of

yarn and its behaviour in the manufacturing process. The fibre which spins into the finest

yarn is considered to be of very good quality.

Jute fibre is marketed in bundles of fibre

hanks. A fibre hank is composed of about 10-

15 fibre reeds obtained from 10-15 plants.

Each fibre reed is composed of thousands of

fibre strands made of ultimate fibres with

lignin and pectic substances, the cementing

materials.

Commercially fibre quality is assessed by taking

a hank out of a lot, spreading the individual

reeds on the ground and then assessing the

different characteristics by `look & touch'

method.

The quality of jute fibre is judged by its suitability for the production of various types of

yarn and its behaviour in the manufacturing process. The fibre which spins into the finest

yarn is considered to be of very good quality.

Jute fibre is marketed in bundles of fibre

hanks. A fibre hank is composed of about 10-

15 fibre reeds obtained from 10-15 plants.

Each fibre reed is composed of thousands of

fibre strands made of ultimate fibres with

lignin and pectic substances, the cementing

materials. Commercially fibre quality is

assessed by taking a hank out of a lot,

spreading the individual reeds on the ground

and then assessing the different characteristics

by `look & touch' method.

Fig 4.a Jute Bales Opening

Fig 4.b Root Cutting

MoRD Page 19 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Fibre Selection and Characteristics

During bulk selection of Jute reed from bales by selector in mill floor, the hand and eye

assessment and the subsequent grading of jute on that basis as well as upgradation and

down gradation, morah weight distribution etc. are to be done promptly and quickly.

Hand may feel fineness, bulk density and strength while eye will judge colour, root

content and defects of the fibre which are described as below:

4.5.1. Strength

To assess the strength of jute fibre by hand,

a bundle of 15-20 clean individual jute fibre

from the middle region of the fibre bulk is

gripped about 5 cm (2 inch) apart between

thumb and forefingers using both the hands

and is attempted to break the fibre bundle

slowly without any jerk. The way it breaks

and the type of sound heard gives an idea

about the fibre strength on feeling by hand

and ear.

4.5.2. Root Content

An estimate of percentage of root content by weight should be done. However, this may

be done by a visual assessment of root content observing approximately the length

percentage of root in jute reed and multiplying the value by two to get an idea of weight

percentage of root content.

4.5.3. Defects

There are 12 types of defects in jute fibre which are grouped as major and minor defects

as mentioned below:

Major Defects Minor Defects

1. Knot (stiff barky spot) 1. Gummy fibre (Gummy pectinous matters)

2. Runner (Long hard barky fibres) 2. Specks (Soft barky and week spots)

3. Dazed fibre (Very weak, dull and easily powdered)

3. Loose leaf (Dark grey leaf remnants)

4. Over-retted fibre (lost strength and colour) 4. Loose sticks (Broken loose sticks adhered)

5. Centre Root (Bukchhal or hard barky root in the middle)

5. Croppy end (Rough and hard top end)

6. Mossy Fibre (Mossy matters gets attached) 6. Natural Dust (Adhered dirt and dust)

7. Entangled sticks (Broken entangled stick still adhered)

8. Hunka (Remnant woody parts)

Fig 4.c Checking Fibre Strength

MoRD Page 20 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

4.5.4. Colour

Jute fibres are obtained in varying colours from creamy white/creamy yellow to brownish

grey/reddish yellow or white. Different colour groups have also been defined in B.I.S

Specifications as follows:

Term White Jute Tossa Jute Daisee Jute

Very Good

Light Creamy to White Golden to Reddish white Reddish

Good Creamy pink to Brownish

white Reddish to brownish

white Reddish to brownish with

some light grey

Fairly Good

Brownish to Reddish white with some light grey

Reddish or Brownish with some light grey

Brownish or light grey with some grey

Fairly Average

Brownish to Light grey Light grey to copper

colour Light grey

Average Grey to Dark grey Grey to dark grey Grey to dark grey

4.5.5. Fineness

Fibre Fineness is inversely proportional to the diameter of the filament. It can be

estimated simply by opening the mesh-like structure and examining the filament by a

close look at it. White Jute is finer than Tossa Jute. During visual assessment of fineness,

the extent of separation of jute fibers is also looked into.

4.5.6. Bulk Density

The bulk density of jute fibre is judged by the feel of heaviness or lightness of a few jute

reeds from the middle region of fibre bulk, by holding tightly within a grip between two

hands. The lightness/heaviness of gripped Jute fibres in hands is felt by moving hands up

and down.

Croppy Dazed Hanka Loose Leaf Runner Specks

Fig 4.d Jute Fibre Defects

MoRD Page 21 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

4.6. Method Study

4.6.1. Selector

1 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Selection Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Bale Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Unload the Jute Bale from the truck with both the hands B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Gripping the upper part (stem part) with right hand and the root part with left hand B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip and pick up the bale. B/H 1/1

3. Release the left hand grip and open the bale. L/H 1/1

4. Spread the Jute bale on the floor holding the stem part of the bale with right hand. B/H 1/1

5. Look at the overall Spreaded Jute Bale carefully.

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Impart a half twist to the Jute Morah. B/H 1/1

2. Dispose the Jute morah and put it on the barrow for being transferred to Batching department. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Following Operation:Sequence of Output

None

Jute Morah Feeding at Softener Frame Descending

Ascending

METHOD DOCUMENT

NA

1a. SelectorModule No.: Selection of the Jute Bale

Previous Operation:

Area for Spreading

Jute Morah Barrow

Jute Bale Barrow

Selector

MoRD Page 22 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

4.6.2. Root Cutter

4.7. Do’s and Don’ts

The checking of grades of jute i.e selection of jute by mill workers/selectors to check or to

investigate the fibre quality parameters of baled jute fibre strand by selector`s hand and

eye estimation to judge its real quality and then to declare it as right or downgraded or

upgraded. The following points a jute selector must follow as Do`s and Don`ts:

Bring the bales from godown to the selection spot or any other place using the

specified material handling equipments, keeping its mark (for mokam declared

grade) in right position.

Transport the specified number of bales of selected qualities from one place to

another as per the instructor of the sardar/supervisor.

Weigh the bales if necessary as per supervisor`s instructions.

Remove the bale ropes/hoop irons using the specified tool, cut them(in case of

ropes)/loose the hoop irons without cutting the hoop irons from the bales and

dispose them at the specified place as per Sardar`s/Supervisor`s instructions.

Collect the Bale mark (marka) and keep them at the specified place.

1 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Selection Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Bale Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Unload the Jute Bale from the truck with both the hands B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Gripping the upper part (stem part) with right hand and the root part with left hand B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip and pick up the bale. B/H 1/1

3. Release the left hand grip and open the bale. L/H

4. Spread the Jute bale on the floor holding the stem part of the bale with right hand. B/H 1/1

5. Look at the overall Spreaded Jute Bale carefully.

6. Gripping the Jute Bale just above the root portion with right hand. R/H 1/1

7. Changing the grip to left hand. B/H 1/1

8. Cut the root portion of the Jute Bale, gripping the bale with left hand, and cutting the bale B/H 1/1

with right hand by means of a Cutter.

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Impart a half twist to the Jute Morah. B/H 1/1

2. Dispose the Jute morah and put it on the barrow for being transferred to Batching department. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 1b. Root Cutter Root Cutting of the Jute Bale

NA

Previous Operation: NoneSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Morah Feeding at Spreader Frame Descending

Area for Spreading

JuteMorah

Jute Bale Barrow

Selector

Cutter

MoRD Page 23 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Selection of jute fibre should judiciously be done following the importance of

quality parameters discussed in the section “Grading of Jute”. Accordingly,

upgrade and downgrade jute fibre properly. During upgrading or downgrading of

jute fibre of jute fibre follow each instruction given by sardar/supervisor and the

section “Grading of Jute”

After proper selection of jute fibre strands (handful of reed taken each time by a

selector), the strand should be half twisted and folded at the middle to prepare a

morah of jute fibres of desired weight uniformly. Morah should be prepared in

correct way.

Morah weight should be around 2-2.5 lbs. (1-1.2 kg) and morah weight should be

uniform as far as possible.

Pre-determined batch mixing of Jute fibre for preparing a particular yarn should be

strictly followed. Hence, do not mix up one quality of jute with other.

Bales of particular batch if not found suitable or good, it should immediately be

brought to the knowledge of supervisor/In-charge.

Selected morahs should be conveniently arranged to the Softener/Spreader feed

end.

Barrows with selected morah should be marked with proper identification mark, to

avoid mixing up of one quality of jute fibre with other.

Ropes and habijabi should be collected at one place for further processing and to

be kept at predetermined fixed place.

4.8. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Jute Bale Unloading Mazdoor

Unloading of the Jute Bales from the truck

2 Jute Bale Handling Mazdoor

Stacks the Jute Bales in the Barrow sequentially

MoRD Page 24 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

4.9. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

3 Days 3 Days

1 2 3

4.1

4.1.1

4.1.2

4.1.2.1 Different Grades and their Properties

4.1.2.2 Basis of Grading

4.1.2.3 Grading by Kutcha Balers

4.1.2.4 Quality Parameters

4.2

4.3

4.3.1

4.4

4.4.1 Selector

4.4.2 Root Cutter

4.5

4.6

1 2 3

4.1

4.1.1

4.1.2

4.1.2.1 Different Grades and their Properties

4.1.2.2 Basis of Grading

4.1.2.3 Grading by Kutcha Balers

4.1.2.4 Quality Parameters

4.2

4.3

4.3.1

4.4

4.4.1 Selector

4.4.2 Root Cutter

4.5

4.6

Introduction

Jute Fibre : Different Types

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

Quality Assessment by Hand and Eye Method

Jute Fibre : Different Types

MODULE 1 : SELECTION

Jute Fibre : Grading

Objective

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Types of Mazdoor

Introduction

Mazdoor Activities

Quality Assessment by Hand and Eye Method

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Jute Fibre : Grading

Objective

Methodology

Methodology

MoRD Page 25 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5. MODULE 2: BATCHING OF JUTE FIBRE

5.1. Introduction

Jute is basically stiff and harsh fibre and in consequence it does not possess good spinning

properties. Raw jute fibres if carded and spun in its natural state, without any oil in water

emulsion, there will be heavy short fibre generation during spinning preparatory

processing, and the resultant yarn will be hairy as well as of poor quality. To process jute

fibre successfully with minimum waste, it requires to be softened (i.e. it must be made

pliable) with nearly 15-25% additional water (where water content of jute goes upto 35-

40% including its inherent moisture) as well as to be oiled in a limited extent (1.5-3%). Oil

reduces the fibre-metal friction; reduces the evaporation of water and increases fibre to

fibre friction for control attenuation.

The machinery used for the purpose is either Jute Spreader or Jute Softener machine. Jute

softener is mostly used but in case of finer or better quality yarns, Jute spreader machine

is used. For spreader machine, roots must be cut during selection stage. In both the

machines, Oil and water emulsion is to be applied in correct proportion on jute fibre while

passing through these machines.

5.2. Objective

The main Objectives of the process of Batching are:

To crush the hard materials attached to the jute fiber.

To remove the loose undesirable materials, dust and dirt present in the Jute

Morah.

To lubricate the Jute fiber and soften the fiber.

5.3. Methodology

5.3.1. Emulsion Application

Emulsion is an intimate mixture of oil and water with the aid of an emulsifier. It usually

contains suitable batching oil, water and an emulsifying agent. Its purpose is to make the

fiber pliable and flexible and thereby improve its spinning ability.

The water (approximately 35%) actually softens and makes the fiber pliable and the oil

(approximately 1.5-3%) prevents the evaporation of the absorbed water from fiber. The

oil also acts as a lubricating agent for reducing friction between fiber and machine parts.

Oil also increases inter friction, putting some extent of resistance during drafting.

The vital aspects of emulsion application of jute are :

Uniformity of Application

Method of Application

Amount of Application

Quality of Emulsion Application

Emulsion amount critically depends on the atmospheric conditions (like humidity,

temperature etc.).

MoRD Page 26 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5.3.2. Softening and Lubrication of Jute Fibre

The impregnation of the emulsion into the Jute fiber happens after a considerable amount

of time. After the application of emulsion, the Jute fiber is kept for some time so that the

emulsion gets time to penetrate into the Jute fiber and thus pliability of the fiber take

improves. The process of Batching mainly involves the removal of impurities from the Jute

fiber. When the Jute Fiber passes through the rollers, any hard materials or impurities

attached to it gets crushed, thereby softening the fiber. Moreover, the application of Oil-

in-water emulsion lubricates the jute fiber and makes it eligible for processing in the later

stages.

5.4. Softener Frame Operator

5.4.1. Machine Details

At present, 16-24 pairs of rollers are used in

Jute Softener instead of 62 pairs (used in past).

In each pair of rollers the spiral-fluted rollers

are opposite handed to each other i.e. from

the previous roller. Thus, all the odd number

softener rollers have spirals in one hand

direction and all the even number softener

rollers have spirals in opposite hand direction.

All upper rollers are spring loaded to exert

pressure on jute passing through the nip.

The jute passing through the softener roller nips is continuously flexed due to roller-to-

roller opposite spirals. In this process, some stiffness of jute fibre reed is extracted and

hard materials attached to the jute fibre are crushed, making removal of those easier at

later stages. Loose undesirable materials, dust and dirt drop off between successive

rollers. About half of the total pairs of rollers away from the feed, oil-water emulsion are

dripped on the jute from a simple gravity fed emulsion application system.

Fig 5.a Emulsion Spraying in Spreader Frame Fig 5.b Emulsion Spraying in Softener Frame

Fig 5.c Softener Frame Machine

MoRD Page 27 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Feeding operator must feed the crop end of the morahs first, and spread the root all over

the width of the feed sheet.

Thus, the root ends get the maximum amount of emulsion, which is mostly needed for

softening. The operator at the receiving end collects the processed morahs and gives it a

half twist at the mid-length for easy handling at subsequent stages and to prevent

undesirable tangling. The morahs are placed on a table or in a barrow, in a neat and

orderly manner with identification mark of quality of jute.

5.4.2. Method Study

5.4.2.1. Softener Feeder

2 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Batching Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Gripping the upper part (stem part) with right hand and the root part with left hand B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip and pick up the bale from the barrow. B/H 1/1

3. Release the left hand grip and open the bale. L/H 1/1

4. Spread the Jute bale over the feed table of the softener frame evenly holding the stem part B/H 1/1

of the bale with left hand.

5. Spread the Jute fibers evenly over the feed table of the softener frame. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 2a. Softener Feeder Feeding of the Jute Morah

Softener Frame

Machine

FeederJute

Morah Feed Table

Previous Operation: Selection Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Morah Receiving

Jute Card

Frame

DescendingSequence of Output

MoRD Page 28 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5.4.2.2. Softener Receiver

5.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s:

To spread the Opened Jute Morah uniformly over the feed table of the machine.

To switch off the machine on the occurrence of overlapping of Morah.

To switch off the machine on the occurrence of roller jamming.

To ensure proper application of emulsion as required.

To impart the half twist to the Morah in the proper way at the receiving side of the

machine.

To maintain uniform size of Jute Morah.

Don`ts:

Do not feed the Jute Morah in such a way that overfeeding / under feeding of

material takes place at a particular section.

Do not take any of your body parts close to the rollers while the machine is running.

2 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Batching Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Follow the flow of Jute Morah on the table at the receiving side of the softener frame.

2. Gripping the upper part (stem part) with right hand and the root part with left hand. B/H 1/1

3. Make a firm grip and pick up the bale from the table at the receiving side. B/H 1/1

4. Release the left hand grip and open the bale. L/H 1/1

5. Holding the Jute Morah, Rotate both hands in opposite directions at an angle of 90 degrees B/H 1/1

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Impart a half twist to the Jute Morah. B/H 1/1

2. Dispose the Jute morah and put it on the barrow for being transferred to Piling department. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Receiving Side

Receiver

with respect to original , thereby imparting twist to the Jute Morah

Softener

Frame

Table

Previous Operation: Jute Morah Feeding at Softener Frame Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Piling Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 2b. Softener Rceiver Receiving of the Jute Morah

Softener Frame

Machine

Barrow for transportation to Piling

MoRD Page 29 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5.5. Spreader Frame Operator

5.5.1. Machine Details

The Spreader machine basically consists of

two endless chains carrying heavy coarser

pins. One chain is running faster than the

other. The root cut morahs of jute reed

prepared during selection are laid one by one

by hand on the feed sheet of the spreader, in

such a way so that the root end of one morah

must be overlapping with the crop end of

previous morah. This is the point where the

separate and individual reeds of jute are

assembled into a continuous sliver form. The

morahs of jute pass between a pair of fluted rollers and then on to the pins of slow

moving chain (pinned) lattice known as “slow chain”. Above the “slow chain” there are

three lantern rollers to press the jute firmly down the pins. Half-way along the machine

the material is transferred from the pins of slow chains to those of a similar chain having a

higher surface speed which is known as “fast chains”. Due to this difference in the chain

speeds, the jute fibres are teased and combed at the transfer point of spreader machine.

The jute reed comes of the fast chain, passes between a pair of fluted delivery rollers and

is guided down to an open-top channel where controlled amount of oil in water emulsion

is added by a pressure spray. Finally, the sliver is collected in roll form by a pneumatic roll

former at the delivery end of the spreader.

Fig 5.d Spreader Frame Machine

MoRD Page 30 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5.5.2. Method Study

5.5.2.1. Spreader Feeder

2 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Batching Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Gripping the upper part (stem part) with right hand and the root part with left hand B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip and pick up the bale from the barrow. B/H 1/1

3. Release the left hand grip and open the bale. L/H 1/1

4. Spread the Jute bale over the feed table of the spreader frame evenly holding the B/H 1/1

stem part of the bale with left hand.

5. Spread the Jute fibers evenly over the feed table of the spreader frame. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Jute

Spreader

Frame

Feed Table

Previous Operation: SelectionSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Sliver Rolls Receiving Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 2d. Spreader Feeder Feeding of the Jute Morah

Spreader Frame

Machine

FeederJute Morah Barrow

MoRD Page 31 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5.5.2.2. Spreader Receiver

5.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s:

To spread the Opened Jute Morah uniformly over the feed table of the machine.

To stop the machine on the occurrence of overlapping of Morah.

To stop the machine on the occurrence of roller jamming.

To ensure proper application of emulsion as required.

To ensure proper doffing of Sliver Rolls

Don`ts:

Do not overfeed / underfeed the material over the feed table of the machine.

Do not continue running the machine if the sliver lapping takes place at the

delivery roller.

Do not take any of the body parts close to the rollers while the machine is running.

5.6. Piling Operator

After the process of softening and lubrication of the jute fibers in the Softener/Spreader

frame through application of emulsion, there is another process that follows. Jute slivers

are much coarser in nature and impregnation of the emulsion into the jute sliver takes

much time compared to other textile fibers. Due to this reason, an additional process

takes place for processing of Jute Fibers, where the Jute Slivers after the

2 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Batching Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Follow the flow of Sliver Roll formation at the receiving side of the spreader frame

2. Disengage the Sliver Roll from the Roll slot after the complete Roll formation and Doffing B/H 1/1

3. Make a firm grip with both hands and Lift the Sliver Roll B/H 1/1

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Dispose the Jute Sliver Roll and put it in the Pile B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Receiving Side

Receiver

Roll Former

Spreader

Frame

Pile Stacked for

Carding

Previous Operation: Jute Sliver Morah Feeding at the Spreader Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Feeding at the Card Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 2e. Spreader Receiver Receiving of the Jute Sliver Rolls

Spreader Frame

Machine

Pile Stacked for Carding

MoRD Page 32 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

softener/spreader frame are kept at a place for a

considerable amount of time. This Process is known as

Piling of Jute Fibers. Also, for extra lubrication, water

application is done in this process. The Piling Operator

sprays water uniformly over the Jute slivers and

imparts lubrication. As a result of this, the Jute slivers

are further softened and thus it becomes more pliable

to be processed in further processes.

5.6.1. Method Study

5.6.1.1. Piler

5.6.2. Do’s and Don’ts

Uniformity of morah size must be maintained.

The morahs should be laid in such a way that the sides of the piles are straight and

the root portion from the both side should remain in the middle of the pile area.

The pile man should trample the surface of every layer of jute to reduce the air gap

between two layers remaining entrapped air pocket and if necessary, dilute waste

emulsion should be applied by hand under supervisor`s instruction.

Hand batching should be judiciously done depending on humidity and quality of

jute etc.

The emulsion during hand batching should be applied on the roots only.

Emulsion application on the four-bottom layer should be comparatively less.

2 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Batching Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Spray water by means of any pipe with right hand over the Jute Morahs uniformly. R/H 1/1

2. Ensures that the water is being sprayed all over the Jute Morah uniformly. B/H 1/1

3. Keeps the Jute Morah in this state for a considerable amount of time.

4. Inserts hand inside the Pile of Jute Morahs after the Piling Time and feels the temperature. R/H 1/1

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Dispose the Jute morah and put it on the barrow for being transferred to Carding department. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

PilerJute Morah

Barrow

Piling Zone (Area for

Moisture application)

Previous Operation: Receiving Jute Morah at Softener FrameSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Morah Feeding at Card Frame Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 2c. Piler Piling of the Jute Morah

NA

Fig 5.e Piling

MoRD Page 33 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

The height of pile should be about 6-8 ft.

A piling notification board should be maintained with each pile indicating the

quality, quantity and date of pile, number and date of maturity or pile opening.

Maturity of the pile can be checked by observing/feeling piling temperature raised,

inserting hand inside the pile.

After completion, the pile should be fully covered by a tarpaulin or jute fabric.

5.7. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Jute Morah Carrying Mazdoor

Carries the Jute Morahs after Selection to the Batching Department

2 Jute Piling Mazdoor Carries the Jute Morahs after Selection to the Piling Zone

MoRD Page 34 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

5.8. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

4 Days 6 Days

1 2 3 4

5.1

5.2 Objective

5.3 Methodology

5.3.1

5.3.2

5.3.3

5.4

5.4.1

5.4.2

5.4.2.1 Softener Feeder

5.4.2.2 Softener Receiver

5.4.3

5.5

5.5.1

5.5.2

5.5.2.1 Spreader Feeder

5.5.2.2 Spreader Receiver

5.5.3

5.6

5.6.1

5.6.1.1 Piler

5.6.2

5.7

1 2 3 4 5 6

5.1

5.2 Objective

5.3 Methodology

5.3.1

5.3.2

5.3.3

5.4

5.4.1

5.4.2

5.4.2.1 Softener Feeder

5.4.2.2 Softener Receiver

5.4.3

5.5

5.5.1

5.5.2

5.5.2.1 Spreader Feeder

5.5.2.2 Spreader Receiver

5.5.3

5.6

5.6.1

5.6.1.1 Piler

5.6.2

5.7

PILING OPERATOR

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Mazdoor Activities

Do`s and Don`ts

Emulsion Application

Softening of Jute

PILING OPERATOR

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Emulsion Application

Softening of Jute

Lubrication of Jute Fibre

SOFTENER FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

Method Study

Method Study

SPREADER FRAME OPERATOR

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Machine Details

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Types of Mazdoor

MODULE 2 : BATCHING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

Introduction

Do`s and Don`ts

SPREADER FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

Lubrication of Jute Fibre

Introduction

SOFTENER FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

MoRD Page 35 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6. MODULE 3: CARDING OF JUTE SLIVER

6.1. Introduction

The card frame in Jute processing system is a very important machine. The machine

determines average length and final fineness of the fibres. It opens up the mesh-like

structure of raw jute and thus, filamentation takes place. Thus, through the process of

carding, form piled and softened jute and jute reeds; sliver (fibrous fleece) of varying fibre

length is obtained.

The conversion of jute reed into the fibrous fleece is done by various actions of rollers and

pins on the jute fibre-reed when it passes through the breaker card. By this carding action,

the mesh structure of jute reeds are broken /opened and parallelization of fibres take

place to obtain spinner`s fibre.

6.2. Objective

The main objectives of the card frame in Jute processing system are as follows:

The primary objective of a breaker card is to open up/break the mesh-like

structure of jute reeds and thereby producing spinner`s fibre. The long jute reeds

are transformed into a thin web of separate fibres emerging as a fleece which is

then condensed into a continuous sliver of suitable weight per unit length i.e. of

suitable linear density.

The objective of a finisher card is to further individualize the fibres, clean and

parallelize them. It also reduces the linear density of breaker card sliver and

improves the uniformity of sliver through leveling and doubling. In finisher card,

different qualities of jute fibres are mixed / blended to have an optimum batch-

mixture of jute fibres for a selective yarn quality.

6.3. Methodology

6.3.1. Root Cutting (for hard roots)

It has been mentioned earlier that the root portions are cut at the selection stage prior to

batching. There are some types of Jute fibres whose root portions are too hard to be cut

before the batching stage. It is for this reason that in some cases, jute fibers including

roots are processed in the batching stage. After the softening stage, the root portion

softens and it is then that the root portion could be cut. In these cases, the fibers are just

cut before feeding at the Breaker Card.

6.3.2. Dollop

Dollop is the weight of jute in lbs fed into the Breaker card for one complete revolution of

clock-pointer. This concept had been in use for controlling uniform sliver weight.

However, preparation of uniform morah weight and feeding of correct sliver weight

excludes the need of dollop weighing.

MoRD Page 36 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6.3.3. Parallelization of Jute Fibre

The process of carding involves application of draft to the fibers, thus attenuating the

fibers to an extent. The application of draft breaks the fibers further after batching stage

and improves the filamentation process. Also, the process of carding further removes any

impurities if present after the process of batching.

The Jute fibers pass through rollers with pins. As a result, combing operation takes place

and fiber parallelization takes place. This makes the jute fibers further pliable and makes

the fiber more effective to be processed in later stages.

In case of yarns, the strength highly depends on the fiber orientation. So, it can be said

that more is the degree of orientation; more would be the strength of the resultant yarn.

The process of carding thus improves the jute fiber orientation thereby, resulting in higher

strength of the resultant yarn.

6.4. Breaker Card Frame Operator

6.4.1. Machine Details

The jute reed enters into a breaker card

through its feed roller and the shell and faces

the action of high speed cylinder pins. The

mesh structure of jute reed is broken /

opened at the junction of shell-nose and

cylinder pins. The jute reed is broken into

individual filaments. The fibrous material on

the cylinder pins is leveled out by the action of

two pairs of worker-stripper rollers. The jute

fleece is finally doffed by the doffer and

emerges from the drawing roller nip and passes down through a metal conductor. Then

the fleece is condensed and passed through a slit/opening to the nip of delivery and

delivery pressing roller from where it comes out in the form of a continuous sliver. This

sliver is then wound onto a compressed roll-former placed underneath the delivery roller.

Breaker card are usually half-circular and down striking and have two pairs of worker-

stripper rollers.

The clearance/gauge between the shell and the feed roller and the feed roller and the

cylinder can be altered to give a selection of operating condition depending upon the

varieties of jute fibres to be processed.

The greater is the draft, the more will be the fibre breakage at the shell-nose. As the

quality of the yarn depends critically upon the fibre length, it is preferred to keep the draft

at an optimum level.

Fig 6.a Breaker Card Frame Machine

MoRD Page 37 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6.4.2. Method Study

6.4.2.1. Feeder- Hand Feed

6.4.2.2. Feeder- Roll Feed

3 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Carding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Gripping the upper part (stem part) with right hand and the root part with left hand B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip and pick up the bale from the barrow. B/H 1/1

3. Release the left hand grip and open the bale. L/H 1/1

4. Spread the Jute bale over the feed table of the Breaker Card frame evenly holding the B/H 1/1

stem part of the bale with left hand.

5. Spread the Jute fibers evenly over the feed table of the Breaker Card frame. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Jute

Breaker

Card

Frame

Feed

Table

Previous Operation: PilingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Receiving Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 3a. Card Feeder-Hand FeedFeeding of the Jute Morah over

the Breaker Card feed table

Card Frame Machine

FeederJute Morah

Barrow from Batching Dept.

3 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Carding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Hold the Jute Sliver Roll with both the hands. B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip with both hands and Lift the Sliver Roll B/H 1/1

3. Lift the Roll and comes closer to the feeding position of Breaker Card/ Finisher Frame B/H 1/1

4. Engage the Sliver Roll at the proper feed position at the feeding side of Breaker Card/ B/H 1/1

Finisher Card Frame

5. Take the sliver from the newly fed Roll and joins(pieces) the sliver with the sliver already in

motion moving towards the feed roller of Breaker Card/ Finisher Card Frame

Operation Layout

Previous Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Receiving at the Spreader Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation:

B/H 1/1

Jute Sliver Roll Receiving at the Card Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 3b. Card Feeder - Roll FeedFeeding of the Sliver Rolls at

Breaker Card/Finisher Card

Card Frame Machine

Feeder

Pile of Sliver Rolls

Card Frame

Fee

dTa

ble

Roll Former

MoRD Page 38 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6.4.2.3. Receiver

6.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Root ends of the morahs should be fed first and they should overlap the crop end

of the preceding morahs.

The diagonal feeding system is to be followed.

Morahs should be fed uniformly at the feed table.

The raw jute if to be felt. If the moisture is high, it is to be separated from the rest

and to be categorized under the “not to use now” section.

The different parts of the machine are to be properly oiled by the oiler.

The machine is to be stopped; the sliver is to be removed and the

Sardar/Supervisor is to be informed if lapping on drawing roller takes place

frequently.

The potential jans at shroud plate should be cleared by the Operator/Sardar

before it grows enough to catch a fire.

Do not over feed/ under feed the material over the feed table of the Breaker Card.

Do not overlap slivers and feed non-uniform amount of material at the feed roller.

6.5. Finisher Card Frame Operator

6.5.1. Machine Details

The breaker card sliver rolls are then fed into the Finisher card. Normally 10-11 breaker

card rolls are fed into the finisher card and then combined into one. This action of

multiple blending of different number of slivers/rolls is popularly called Doubling, which

reduces sliver irregularity and mixes different types of jute fibres. Further filamentation

3 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Carding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Follow the flow of Sliver Roll formation at the receiving side of the Card frame

2. Disengage the Sliver Roll from the Roll slot after the complete Roll formation and Doffing B/H 1/1

3. Make a firm grip with both hands and Lift the Sliver Roll B/H 1/1

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Dispose the Jute Sliver Roll and put it in the Pile to be taken to the Drawing Frame B/H 1/1

Operation Layout (Receiver - Breaker Card Frame)

Previous Operation: Jute Morah Feeding at the Card Frame Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Feeding at the Draw Frame Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:3c. Receiver - Card

Frame

Receiving of the Jute Sliver

Rolls

Card Frame Machine

RRReceiver Breaker Card Frame

Roll FormerPile of Sliver Rolls

MoRD Page 39 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

and parallelization in jute fibre fleece takes place at the finisher card along with mixing

and doubling.

The long jute finisher card is three and a half pair, half circular, single doffer and down

striking type. Finisher Card may also be designed as four and a half pair, full circular,

double doffer and up striking type. The rollers and the cylinder are pinned in the same

manner as that of Breaker card; but as the jute is in a more open state by the time it

reaches the finisher card, the pins are somewhat finer and set close together. There is no

need for shell at the feed end of the finisher card as that of the breaker card. Here, plain

pinned or double pinned roller system is adopted.

The effectiveness of carding can be understood by observing the delivered thin fibre

fleece at the delivery-end conductor of the finisher card.

However, an extra carding passage is to be provided for lower grades of jute, root-cuttings

etc. and this card is called inter-card used in between breaker and finisher card. 10 or 11

breaker card rolls of them are combined into one in the Inter card which is then fed into

the finisher card. Also to open up root cuttings and thread waste, a typical type of card is

used, which is called Teaser or hard waste teaser (thread waste/gunny teaser) card.

6.5.2. Method Study

6.5.2.1. Feeder- Roll Feed

3 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Carding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Hold the Jute Sliver Roll with both the hands. B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip with both hands and Lift the Sliver Roll B/H 1/1

3. Lift the Roll and comes closer to the feeding position of Breaker Card/ Finisher Frame B/H 1/1

4. Engage the Sliver Roll at the proper feed position at the feeding side of Breaker Card/ B/H 1/1

Finisher Card Frame

5. Take the sliver from the newly fed Roll and joins(pieces) the sliver with the sliver already in

motion moving towards the feed roller of Breaker Card/ Finisher Card Frame

Operation Layout

Previous Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Receiving at the Spreader Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation:

B/H 1/1

Jute Sliver Roll Receiving at the Card Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 3b. Card Feeder - Roll FeedFeeding of the Sliver Rolls at

Breaker Card/Finisher Card

Card Frame Machine

Feeder

Pile of Sliver Rolls

Card Frame

Fee

dTa

ble

Roll Former

MoRD Page 40 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6.5.2.2. Receiver

6.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts

The root end of the Jute morah have to be cut properly i.e. not to be undercut or

overcut.

Breaker Card Roll in stock should be stacked with marka for fibre quality and is to

be covered.

The different sizes of Breaker card rolls are to be fed at a time to the finisher card,

so that all the sliver rolls don`t get exhausted at a time.

Sliver Lapping at the delivery roller is to be avoided.

In case of Sliver Lapping, the sliver is to be immediately cleaned and roller jamming

is to be avoided.

Slivers are to be pieced (joined) at the feed end in case of any sliver feed

discontinuity.

Number of doubling should be properly checked and has to be maintained on the

feed table of the finisher card.

The mixing of rolls is to be checked as per the pre-selected batch-mix and the

particular rolls are properly placed for a particular batch so that batch composition

should not alter for particular yarn making.

The mixing of rolls is to be checked as per the pre-selected batch-mix and the

particular rolls are properly placed for a particular batch so that batch composition

should not alter for particular yarn making.

No missing rolls should be allowed at the feed side of finisher card. Mixing of rolls

of different qualities of jute should be proper.

3 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Carding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Follow the flow of Sliver Roll formation at the receiving side of the Card frame

2. Disengage the Sliver Roll from the Roll slot after the complete Roll formation and Doffing B/H 1/1

3. Make a firm grip with both hands and Lift the Sliver Roll B/H 1/1

Bundle Handling after Operation

1. Dispose the Jute Sliver Roll and put it in the Pile to be taken to the Drawing Frame B/H 1/1

Operation Layout (Receiver - Finisher Card Frame)

Previous Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Feeding at the Card Frame Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Feeding at the Draw Frame Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 3d. Receiver - Card Frame Receiving of the Jute Sliver Rolls

Card Frame Machine

Pile for Sliver Roll

FinisherCard Frame

DeliveryTable Feed

Table

RollFormer

Receiver

MoRD Page 41 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

6.6. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Carrier Carries the Jute Morahs after Piling to the Carding Department

6.7. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

5 Days 10 Days

1 2 3 4 5

6.1

6.2

6.3

6.3.1

6.3.2

6.3.3

6.4

6.4.1

6.4.2

6.4.2.1 Feeder- Hand Feed

6.4.2.2 Feeder- Roll Feed

6.4.2.3 Receiver

6.4.3

6.5

6.5.1

6.5.2

6.5.2.1 Feeder- Hand Feed

6.5.2.2 Feeder- Roll Feed

6.5.2.3 Receiver

6.5.3

6.6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

6.1

6.2

6.3

6.3.1

6.3.2

6.3.3

6.4

6.4.1

6.4.2

6.4.2.1 Feeder- Hand Feed

6.4.2.2 Feeder- Roll Feed

6.4.2.3 Receiver

6.4.3

6.5

6.5.1

6.5.2

6.5.2.1 Feeder- Hand Feed

6.5.2.2 Feeder- Roll Feed

6.5.2.3 Receiver

6.5.3

6.6

Do`s and Don`ts

Machine Details

Method Study

Machine Details

Do`s and Don`ts

Method Study

Types of Mazdoor

MODULE 3 : CARDING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Introduction

Root Cutting (for hard roots)

Dollop

Parallelization of Jute Fibres

Objective

Methodology

Objective

Methodology

Method Study

Mazdoor Activities

BREAKER CARD FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

Method Study

FINISHER CARD FRAME OPERATOR

BREAKER CARD FRAME OPERATOR

Do`s and Don`ts

FINISHER CARD FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

Introduction

Root Cutting (for hard roots)

Dollop

Parallelization of Jute Fibres

Do`s and Don`ts

MoRD Page 42 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

7. MODULE 4: DRAWING OF JUTE SLIVER

7.1. Introduction

Summarizing so far, the process of jute processing involved the breaking of Jute fibers,

attenuation of the fibers by application of draft, opening and individualization of Jute

fibers. Attenuation of the slivers i.e. drafting of the slivers increases the sliver irregularity.

Thus, drafting and doubling (mixing) of slivers is done simultaneously in this process.

Generally, three drawing operation stages are involved for processing of finer yarns for

Hessian quality and two drawing operation stages are involved for processing of coarser

yarns for Sacking weft quality.

In each of the three drawing passages, the jute slivers are drafted and then doubled. As a

result of this, the two main operations take place:

Further Opening and individualization of jute fibre, and

Reduction of Jute sliver irregularity by doubling of jute fibers.

7.2. Objective

Parallelization / Straightening of fibers along the length of the sliver.

Reduction of sliver weight irregularity by doubling.

Attenuation or reduction of sliver weight by drafting.

Mixing of different types of fibers, if required.

7.3. Methodology

7.3.1. Attenuation of Jute Sliver

There are mainly two types of drawing frames available for drawing operation of jute

sliver. These are, namely, push bar and screw gill drawing frames. The sliver enters the

drawing machine between the retaining rollers & a self weighted jockey-rollers and then

meet the gill pins. The gill pins are carried on a series of faller bars. As the sliver leaves the

nip of the back roller, a faller bar with its sharp pins strike upwards into the slivers and

fibres are impaled on the gill pins. The faller bars move towards as a sheet and carry the

sliver to the front of the machine. When the faller-bars are close to the drawing rollers,

they drop out of the sliver and travel back under the sliver in preparation for another

stroke upwards. The relative surface speed of the drawing and retaining rollers normally

defines the draft of the frame. If the lead between the faller and the retaining roller is low,

the sliver will ride on the top of the pins and as a result of drafting, the fibres will suddenly

be accumulated at the nip of the drawing roller and emerged from the machine resulting

in the formation of thick and thin places in the sliver. So, the pin in the faller bar should

not be blunt, bent, broken or missing.

7.3.2. Doubling of the Slivers

After passing the Drafting the slivers undergo a doubling operation where the two or

more sliver flows are combined into one thus resulting in the delivery of a single sliver. As

a result of this, the sliver irregularity gets minimized. Also, the count CV% of the resultant

yarn gets reduced due to the doubling. Drawing of the jute fibres is a very important

MoRD Page 43 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

process where the sliver irregularity and also the resultant yarn irregularity can be

controlled to a much larger extent.

7.4. Drawing Frame Operator

7.4.1. Machine Details

7.4.1.1. Mackhigh Push Bar Drawing machine

This machine has single crank bar and only one track for controlling the bars but keeping

the faller speed as high as ordinary push bar drawing frame. The crank is bent at 450 and

end of the crank gets in the pin control track. The outer track is formed by five small

pieces which are fixed to the side gable and the inner one is placed inside the five pieces

and also fixed on the side gable. Out of above five pieces, two top ones acts as bridge

pieces. The narrow bead having fallers are placed by the side of the inner side so that they

are not getting any end long motion or side way motion. The tilting of the bars are

prevented by the top pieces of the outer track. The pitch of the carrier wheel is double the

pitch of the bar and thereby two pieces drops for each revolution of the wheel. Thus, the

faller drops are very high.

7.4.1.2. Screw Gill / Spiral Drawing machine

This machine has one pair of screw in both side of the faller bar which are directly fitted

with one another. Faller bars are driven by these screws. Two sides of each faller bar has a

cutting in such a way that sides are fitted with a gap of screws and faller bars move

forward by rotation of screws. When each faller bar comes at the end of top screw, it falls

on the adjacent bottom screw by means of a cam. When the faller bars fall one by one

from the gap of top screw to bottom screw, those bars are tightly held by means of spring.

The gap between the bottom screws is comparatively wider than that of top screw, so

that faller bars can reach the back side very quickly. The gap between bottom screws is

wider, so that less number of faller bars is required to complete the cycle. Thus the

bottom screws are coarser in pitch than the top screws. Also the cams are fitted at the

end of the screws to the ascent of bars. There are check-levers fitted in front and back on

brackets along with the springs. The back check levers are hooked at the top to prevent

throwing of the bars.

MoRD Page 44 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

7.4.2. Method Study

7.4.2.1. Feeder- First Draw Frame

4 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Drawing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Hold the Jute Sliver Roll with both the hands. B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip with both hands and Lift the Sliver Roll B/H 1/1

3. Lift the Roll and comes closer to the feeding position of Breaker Card/ Finisher Frame B/H 1/1

4. Engage the Sliver Roll at the proper feed position at the feeding side of Breaker Card/ B/H 1/1

Finisher Card Frame

5. Take the sliver from the newly fed Roll and joins(pieces) the sliver with the sliver already in B/H 1/1

motion moving towards the feed of 1st Draw Frame.

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:4a. Feeder - Draw

Frame

Feeding of the Sliver Rolls / Sliver

Cans

Drawing Frame

Machine

Previous Operation: Jute Sliver Roll Receiving at the Card Sequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Sliver Can Receiving

Feeder

Pile of Sliver Rolls

1st DrawFrame

Roll Former

MoRD Page 45 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

7.4.2.2. Receiver & Feeder- Second & Finisher Draw Frame

7.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

There should be proper number of doublings at the feed side of the frame.

There should not be any restriction for the movement of feed sliver on their path

and in the passage on doubling plate. Sliver should pass through the proper

grooves of the doubling plate.

There should not be any blunt, bent, broken and missing pins on the faller bars (in

Screw Gill)

There should not be any floating and overriding fibres on the gill pins. Fitting

mirror on top of the frame helps the operator to detect the above problem.

Check if the Can is tramping and can turning device is working properly.

To check if the Sliver crimping device actuate properly.

Top Roller Pressure system should be in order.

When sliver breaks, machine should be stopped by auto stop motion working

properly and immediately the operator should splice it properly.

When the shear pin breaks, Operator should immediately call line mechanic.

Operator should also watch frequently the amount of droppage and dust

4 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Drawing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Hold the Jute Sliver Can with both the hands. B/H 1/1

2. Make a firm grip with both hands B/H 1/1

3. Moves the Roll to the feeding position of the next Draw Frame B/H 1/1

4. Moves the Sliver Can consisting the Jute Sliver to the proper feed position at the feeding side B/H 1/1

of Draw Frame

5. Take the sliver from the newly fed Sliver Can and joins(pieces) the sliver with the sliver already B/H 1/1

in motion moving towards the feed of the respective Draw Frame.

Handling after Operation

1. Hold the empty Jute Sliver Can with both the hands after the total use of the jute sliver inside B/H 1/1

the can.

2. Move the empty sliver can back to the receiving position of the previous Draw Frame in Operation B/H 1/1

for use.

Operation Layout

Previous Operation: Sliver Rolls Sliver Cans Feeding at Draw FrameSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Spinning Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:

4b. Receiver &

Feeder - 2nd / 3rd Draw

Frame

Receiving of the Sliver Rolls /

Sliver Cans and Feeding at the

next Draw Frame

Draw Frame Machine

2nd Draw Frame3rd Draw Frame

Receiver - 2nd Draw Frame / Feeder - 3rd Draw Frame

MoRD Page 46 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

deposited underneath the drawing machine and if droppage collection is too

much, the dust mazdoor should be called to remove it. In case of higher

droppages, the supervisor should be informed.

There should be no objectionable/unusual sound in the machine. Hence, operator

occasionally should hear the machine sound attentively.

Operator should understand about the quality of sliver particularly about the thick-

thin places and accordingly operator should watch quality of produces sliver

carefully.

After doffing the sliver can in running condition, the operator should clean the

machine and surrounding area. Can-marka or colour of can as an indication mark

of sliver quality should be properly maintained.

Crimp box weight should be at proper place in finisher drawing machine.

Occasionally, the drawing roller surface is to be checked and the sardar should be

informed on the occurrence of such scratch mark.

Operator should attentively check the condition the condition of pins on the faller

bar. The sardar/supervisor or the line mechanic should be informed if any of the

pins are blunt/broken/missing and to be rectified.

Operator should keep the feed materials and delivered materials with proper

coverings, so that, there is no undue loss of moisture from the slivers.

Operator should clean machine and lubricate the machine after each shift.

Doffing of sliver can after stopping the machine should be avoided. All the sliver

cans should not be exhausted at a time.

Can identification mark as per quality should be properly maintained.

If there is lapping or jam on any drawing machine, operator should immediately

attend it to remove the lapping/jam, without use of knife. Knife can cause scratch

mark on the rollers, which is undesirable.

Before placing empty sliver can, operator should check that there should be no

remnant of old sliver at the inside bottom of the can. Only empty can should be

placed.

Operator should be watchful about the routine cleaning, lubrication and picking

job at each shift.

7.5. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Can Mazdoor Shifts the Jute Sliver Cans to different zone as per requirement

MoRD Page 47 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

7.6. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

4 Days 5 Days

1 2 3 4

7.1

7.2

7.3

7.3.1

7.3.2

7.3.3

7.4

7.4.1

7.4.2

7.4.2.1 Feeder- First Draw Frame

7.4.2.2 Receiver & Feeder- Second & Finisher Draw

Frame

7.4.3

7.5

1 2 3 4 5

7.1

7.2

7.3

7.3.1

7.3.2

7.3.3

7.4

7.4.1

7.4.2

7.4.2.1 Feeder- First Draw Frame

7.4.2.2 Receiver & Feeder- Second & Finisher Draw

Frame

7.4.3

7.5

Attenuation of Jute Sliver

Methodology

Do`s and Don`ts

Mazdoor Activities

DRAWING FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

Method Study

Doubling of the Slivers

Fibre Orientation and Parallelization

Fibre Orientation and Parallelization

DRAWING FRAME OPERATOR

Machine Details

Method Study

Types of Mazdoor

Objective

Introduction

MODULE 4 : DRAWING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

Introduction

Objective

Methodology

Attenuation of Jute Sliver

Do`s and Don`ts

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Doubling of the Slivers

MoRD Page 48 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

8. MODULE 5: SPINNING OF JUTE SLIVER

8.1. Introduction

Normally a finisher drawing sliver (third passage in case of fine yarns and second passage

in case of coarse yarns) is used as a feed material of spinning frame.

The majority of jute yarns are spun from finisher drawing crimped sliver, which is

contained in can for 25-30 hours capacity individually. The essential features of the

spinning frame are drafting, twisting and winding. The mechanism of twisting and winding

functions is common and integral, although there is some difference adopted in

controlling fiber motion during drafting in drafting zone of different types of jute spinning

machines.

All types of Jute Spinning frame have three common zones – Creel Zone, Drafting Zone

and Twisting Zone & Winding Zone.

Creel Zone, where finisher drawing cans (sliver of 25 to 30 hours feeding capacity)

are placed in a manner to feed individual spindle of the spinning frames.

Drafting Zone, where jute fibers are subjected to drafting thereby reducing the

number of fibers in the cross-section as well as straightening and parallelization of

the fibers.

Twisting & Winding Zone, where drafted fiber strand is twisted and then wound

on a bobbin with the help of flyer and bobbin.

8.2. Objective

To reduce the number if fibres in the cross-section according to the count of the

yarn.

To impart twist to form the final yarn structure.

To wind the yarn on a bobbin maintaining proper yarn tension.

8.3. Methodology

8.3.1. Attenuation of Jute Sliver

Jute Slivers are further drafted in the process of spinning before being spun into a yarn. As

already discussed, the orientation and parallelization of the fibers has a great influence

over the strength and quality of the resultant yarn.

In this process, the jute fiber individualization takes place further and makes the jute sliver

ready to be spun. In case the fibers does not get oriented in the jute sliver, after spinning,

only one component of the fiber strength will be contributed to the yarn strength. The

straighter the fiber is, the larger the strength component would be and greater would be

the strength of the yarn.

8.3.2. Twisting of the Sliver

Twisting is the process of conversion of Jute sliver into the yarn. Jute Spinning Frame

inserts twist by means of overhung flyers suspended above the bobbins which are rotated

by the yarn pulling them round.

MoRD Page 49 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

A sliver is twisted to increase the coherence between the fibers.

The more would be the fiber-to-fiber coherence in the fibers,

the more would be its contribution to yarn strength. The

majority of End Breakages in the Jute Processing takes place due

to the slippage of fibers. On application of tension, the fibers

tend to slip and eventually yarn breakage takes place. This

happens due to less fiber-to-fiber coherence. Thus the process

of twisting greatly influences fiber cohesion in the sliver which

again influences the End Breakage Rate during the Jute

processing in later stages.

8.3.3. Winding of the Yarn

The spinning bobbin is mounted in between the two flyer legs. The yarn actually passes

through the flyer eye to the bobbin. Every rotation of the flyer imparts twist to the

resultant yarn. The rotation of the flyer also winds yarn on the spinning bobbin. Both the

spinning bobbin and the flyer rotate, there being a speed differential system between

flyer and bobbin.

The Flyer gets its motion from the motor via pulleys and having constant speed through

full doff. The rotational movement of bobbins depends on yarn tension, which on the

other hand depends on flyer rotation.

8.3.4. Doffing of the Yarn Bobbins

Semi-Automatic Doffing System is present in all spinning frames. When the Bobbins are

full, the frame is stopped with the Builder-Rail as near the bottom of the traverse as

possible. By pushing in a clutch lever, the builder is brought into gear with the Auto

Doffing Arrangement, which is operated by a hand wheel and a traverse gear, then is

disconnected by pulling out the spring-loaded clutch-pin. The hand wheel is then released

and the Builder-Rail lowered out of traverse on to the Bracket where it presses down the

counter balance weight of the catch. The Rail is then slid forward by operating a foot-

wheel, thus bringing the Builder-Rail with the empty bobbins into position. When the

Builder-Rail with the empty bobbins is lifted by operating the hand wheel, the clutch-pin

snaps home as soon as the builder reaches the position from which it was disconnected,

thus brings the traverse gearing into operation. The clutch-lever is then pulled out thereby

disconnecting the auto-doffing arrangement (otherwise the machine would not start). A

few turns of yarn are wound on the bobbins and the ends cut; thereafter, the frame is

started up to speed and is individual automatic stop motion is brought into operation by

depressing another lever situated just above the starting lever. The full bobbins are

replaced by empty bobbins is then slid to the backward position by operating the foot-

wheel. When the rail reaches this position, the bracket is slid forward again by operating

the foot wheel in the reverse direction. As soon as the bracket reaches the proper

position, the counter –balance weight is released from under the rail and the catch snaps

up and holds the rail in position, and the mechanism is ready for the next doffing.

Fig 8.a Twisting of the Sliver

MoRD Page 50 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

8.4. Spinning Frame

8.4.1. Machine Details

8.4.1.1. Machine Types

All jute spinning frames have two sets of rollers

along the length of the machine, the retaining

and drawing roller which are positively driven.

Each of these sets are provided with pressing

roller for fibre gripping. Retaining and retaining

pressing rollers are flutted and metallic but the

drawing roller, though metallic, it has line

scratch and its pressing roller is covered with

rubber cots. Drafting is the attenuation of the

feed sliver suitably to get desired weight of yarn

per unit length (count).

In jute industry, three types of draft control system for spinning machines are in practice

generally. They are:

Slip Draft System (Breast Plate and Intermediate Rollers)

Apron Draft System (Apron and Pressure Plate)

Grooved Intermediate Rollers (Slip Draft for Coarser Count)

8.4.1.2. Slip Draft Spinning Frame

In between the retaining and drawing rollers, there is a smaller semi-circular plate,

concave outwards, called breast plate which controls the short fibre movement. After the

sliver passes behind the plate end, it enters a short channel at foot of which there is a pair

of intermediate rollers, the lower one positively driven and upper one deriving its motion

from the lower. Both rollers are deeply fluted; the upper one having a circumferential

groove on its surface to allow the sliver to pass through by slip through these grooves. The

upper roller is self-weighted to prevent premature drafting of the short fibres. After

leaving this pair of rollers the sliver enters a small conductor and then passes directly into

the drafting nip.

8.4.1.3. Apron Draft Spinning Frame

On Apron draft jute spinning machine, fibres leave the nip of the retaining rollers and then

pass on to the surface of a rubber apron. As they move down towards the drawing roller

they pass through apron and apron plate which is pressing the apron gently. The apron

helps to stop uncontrolled fibre movement. Below the apron is the usual conductor just

before the drawing roller nip.

Fig 8.b Spinning Frame

MoRD Page 51 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

8.4.1.4. Machine Specifications

No. of Spindle Generally 100 spindles for

inches and

inches pitch machine and 80

spindles for

inches and 6 inches pitch machine. Some of the mills have

110 spindles

inches pitch apron draft machine.

Pitch of the Spindle

:

,

,

, 6 inches

Lift : 6, 7.50, 4.5 inches etc.

Bobbin Size 1.6 in.× 7.5 in., 6.5 in. × 3 in., 5.75 in. × 2.625 in. etc.

Count Range 4-16 lbs/spindle in

and

inches pitch machine.

20-35 lbs./spindle in 5.5 and 6 inches pitch machine

Drive Left or Right hand lenix drive machine is available

Silver Stop Motion

Mechanical sliver stop motion is available (optionally Pneumafil sliver suction device in lieu of stop motion particularly in apron draft spinning machine)

Flyer Speed 3200 to 4200 rpm for finer count and 1800 to 2700 rpm for coarser count of yarns

8.4.1.5. Pitch

This is commonly known as spindle pitch of spinning machine. It is the distance between

the two consecutive spindle centres. For coarser side the pitch should be higher, usually

inch and for finer side the pitch is lower, usually

inch.

8.4.1.6. Lift

It is the amount of total upward and downward linear movement of the carriage of

spinning bobbins for perfect winding of the yarn and building of the bobbins.

8.4.1.7. Spindle R.P.M.

It is the number of circular rotation of spinning spindle per minute, indicating the speed of

twisting and winding of the yarn.

8.4.1.8. Twist Constant

Twist is the turns about their axes of fibres in yarns. It is obtained by the revolution of the

spinning flyer relative to the delivery roller speed.

8.4.1.9. Draft Constant

Draft is the amount of attenuation given as expressed by the ratio of the surface speed of

the Fast moving rollers to that of the slow moving rollers, to obtain proportionate

reduction of the number/weight of fibres per unit length than that of initial fibre

aggregate/sliver. Thus, it is the method of reducing the size of a fibre aggregate by

advancing it through pairs of rollers moving with progressively higher surface speed. Draft

constant is a machine constant obtained by the surface speed ratio of drawing roller to

retaining roller considering the change pinion as unity.

MoRD Page 52 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

8.4.2. Method Study

8.4.2.1. Spinner

8.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Follow the proper identification marks/colour of sliver cans for different qualities

of yarn making. Use finisher drawing can with same identification mark.

Follow the identification marks/colour of yarns, frame number, Draft change

pinion (DCP) and Twist Change Pinion (TCP) on spinning machines.

Mark the bobbins for different quality of yarns.

Maintain uniform bobbin weight.

Use felt bobs with same life span.

5 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Spinning Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Hold the Jute Sliver Can with both the hands. B/H 1/1

2. Moves the Roll to the feeding position of the Spinning Frame B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Take out the Jute Sliver from the Jute Sliver Can with right hand. R/H 1/1

2. Pass the sliver through the machine parts and join the newly fed sliver with the sliver already B/H 1/1

running in the machine.

3. Mount the empty spinning bobbins for winding by engaging them at the respective slots

4. Follow the winding of yarn on the spinning bobbin. B/H 1/1

5. Piece the yarn (in case of End Breakage) B/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

R/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

R/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

R/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Despatch the full spinning packages to the barrow to be taken to winding and replace them B/H 1/1

with empty ones.

Operation Layout

Ascending

Following Operation: Winding Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 5.a Spinner Attending Spinning machine

Spinning Machine

(g) Pull the grooved wire and take it out of the wharve along with the wire.

(h) Release the left hand grip on the wharve cap and let it rotate again.

(i) Take the yarn out of the wire groove with right hand holding the wire with left hand.

Previous Operation: Sliver Can Receiving at the Draw FrameSequence of Output

(a) Make a firm grip at the rotating wharve cap (stopping it) with the left hand

(b) Pass a thin grooved wire through the small hole on the wharve cap with right hand.

(c) Find the yarn end on the wound spinning bobbin.

(d) Unwind the spinning bobbin slightly to take out the yarn.

(e) Engage the yarn at the respective flyer-eye with right hand

(f) Engage the yarn at the groove of the wire passid inside through the wharve cap hole.

(j) Put the wire in the shirt pocket.

(k) Take the yarn with the right hand, and guide it to the retaining roller nip simultaneously

Spinning Frame

Spinner

Spinning Bobbin Barrow

MoRD Page 53 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Follow all the instructions of supervisor in case of quality change and use proper

identification marks, as instructed.

Use coloured yarn for making in lieu of hooks when necessary for export yarn.

Tie waste bag at proper place at the start of the shift as instructed.

Clean the machine parts and surroundings properly at the start of the shift.

Set bobbin on carrier wheels properly.

Take immediate remedial measures to run the idle spindle.

At the start, understand previous shift`s working from earlier shift`s operator.

Follow the scheduled duties and responsibilities of a spinning operator. However,

in case of sliver shortage or excessive end breakages, take measure as per

instruction of line sardar/supervisor.

Work in a safe and attentive way to avoid accidents.

Check and arrange to replace worn-out pressing roller, broken yarn detector,

broken porcelain flyer-eye, worn-out leather wiper, defective bobbin carrier,

broken or defective bobbin heads, damaged felt bobs etc. if found.

Before sending back the empty sliver cans to drawing department, make it sure

that the can is thoroughly empty.

Occasionally clean the spinning machine by air blow, but in idle condition only.

Use graphite powder lubricant (no grease or oil) in builder rail for correct bobbin

building.

Check the position of the felt bob and report the concerned supervisor for

replacement, if necessary.

Remove badly fit and damaged bobbin.

Avoid rough handling of the bobbins.

Keep each type of sliver/thread thread waste in the waste bag separately.

Occasionally check the condition of apron or depth or the groove in grooved idler

roller and report the concerned supervisors if necessary.

Avoid “Morah Mara” system during doffing time. This is a bad practice and to be

avoided.

Attend end breakages systematically by proper piecing taking optimum time.

Ensure sliver feeding from can, avoid rubbing of slivers against riveted can wall.

Keep watch on the stock of full sliver can and dispose of empty can at the back of

the spinning frame.

Feed sliver from can without wasting good sliver.

Piece-up the yarn with minimum length without causing generation of thick place.

Clean the idler roller, pneumatic pipes etc. when necessary.

Keep the reserve bobbins and created bobbins free from fluff, dust and yarn

accumulation.

Don`t use any knife during bobbin cleaning.

Inform the concerned Supervisor/Sardar if any spindle is observed with less

lubricated of running without lube oil.

Inform your supervisors, if ball-container and spring is not available.

Inform the superior immediately regarding damaging and repairing of cotton tape.

MoRD Page 54 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Leave the work spot only after giving the charge to reliever for going out from

work place for personal needs and for nature`s call.

8.4.4. Do’s and Don’ts

There are various reasons for end breaks in jute sliver spinning machine. In general, it can

be explained that whenever the yarn is not able to withstand the spinning tension, there

will be end breaks causing loss in efficiency thereby lowering production.

Causes of End Breakages / Yarn Breaks in Spinning:

Due to feed material

Irregular Sliver

High variation in sliver weight

Improper moisture

Presence of roots and specs in sliver

Due to Spinning Frame

Wrong selection of machine parameters like spindle speed, twist and their high

variations, high draft etc.

Improper setting of machine components like breast plate, front conductor etc.

Improper position of the felt bobs under the bobbin carriers.

Improper wrapping of yarn on the flyer.

Broken machine components specially gears.

Improper movement of rollers.

Poor maintenance of the machine.

8.5. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Spinning Bobbin Carrying Mazdoor (Bobbin Carrier)

Carries the Spinning bobbin from Spinning Department to Winding Department and Bring back the empty bobbins from Winding Department to Spinning Department

MoRD Page 55 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

8.6. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

5 Days 15 Days

1 2 3 4 5

8.1

8.2

8.3

8.3.1

8.3.2

8.3.3

8.3.4

8.3.5

8.4

8.4.1

8.4.1.1 Machine Types

8.4.1.2 Slip Draft Spinning Frame

8.4.1.3 Apron Draft Spinning Frame

8.4.1.4 Machine Specifications

8.4.1.5 Pitch

8.4.1.6 Lift

8.4.1.7 Spindle R.P.M.

8.4.1.8 Twist Constant

8.4.1.9 Draft Constant

8.4.2 Method Study

8.4.2.1 Spinner

8.4.3

8.5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

8.1

8.2

8.3

8.3.1

8.3.2

8.3.3

8.3.4

8.3.5

8.4

8.4.1

8.4.1.1 Machine Types

8.4.1.2 Slip Draft Spinning Frame

8.4.1.3 Apron Draft Spinning Frame

8.4.1.4 Machine Specifications

8.4.1.5 Pitch

8.4.1.6 Lift

8.4.1.7 Spindle R.P.M.

8.4.1.8 Twist Constant

8.4.1.9 Draft Constant

8.4.2 Method Study

8.4.2.1 Spinner

8.4.3

8.5

Do`s and Don`ts

Mazdoor Activities

MODULE 5 : SPINNING

Doffing of the Yarn Spindles

SPINNING FRAME

Machine Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Types of Mazdoor

Doffing of the Yarn Spindles

Yarn Piecing

SPINNING FRAME

Machine Study

Introduction

Objective

Methodology

Attenuation of Jute Sliver

Twisting of the Sliver

Winding of the Yarn

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Twisting of the Sliver

Winding of the Yarn

Yarn Piecing

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

Introduction

Objective

Methodology

Attenuation of Jute Sliver

MoRD Page 56 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

9. MODULE 6: WARP WINDING AND TWISTING OF JUTE YARN

9.1. Introduction

In a jute Mill, winding of Jute yarn is a vital section, where jute yarns (both warp and weft)

are wound on a suitable larger package of specified dimensions, removing some yarn

defects, to make next processes more efficient and useful for making a right quality fabric

without any or with minimum fault.

The length of yarn in spinning bobbin is very limited (300 to 900 yards weighing approx

200 gm – 300 gm). Moreover, the spun yarn in spinning bobbin contains some defects

such as slubs, thick and thin places, foreign matters etc. As a result, the spinning bobbins

are not suitable for smooth and continuous running of the machines in the subsequent

operations i.e. pre-beaming, dressing & beaming and weaving. So, the spun yarn bobbins

are converted to spools/cones containing long length weighing approx. 3 kg packages.

During this conversion, these defects are removed (an operation particularly essential for

sale yarn) for more efficient running in next operation. Thus, winding is the linking stage

between spinning and weaving and a decisive factor in the smooth running of the yarns in

subsequent processes. In order to achieve these objectives, adding of yarn knots

(weaver`s knots, fisherman`s knot or dog knot) is unavoidable and the yarn passes

through some elements in the machine which generate tension variation in the yarn.

Hence, one has to take proper care so that the knots and trailing ends are as small as

possible, the density of the package is uniform and the package is suitable for smooth

running in next stage. Above all, the physical properties of the yarn such as strength,

elongation etc. should be retained in winding. Improper winding can result in end

breakages which in turn would increase machine down-time, less production and product

of substandard quality and also more workload for operators.

9.2. Objective of Spool Winding

To transfer warp yarn (single or doubled) from one package to another generally

producing a larger package (spool, cone, etc.) from a smaller package (spinning

bobbin)

To remove objectionable faults such as slubs, thick and thin places, foreign matters

etc. from the yarn

To produce a package of uniform tension and specified dimension to make

next/subsequent operations more efficient and fault free

9.3. Methodology

There are two different sets of yarn, namely warp

and weft yarn which are used in making cloth. The

winding of these kinds of yarns are different

although they are spun in similar way. The warp

yarns from spinning bobbins are first wound on

what is known as spools and then the spools are

wound to form a warp beam. The weft yarns on

the other hand are converted into cops. Beam Fig 9.a Spool Winding

MoRD Page 57 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

yarns (warp) and cop yarns (weft) are woven to form a cloth. The post spinning winding

process for jute warp yarns is called spool winding and that of jute weft yarns is called cop

winding.

The process mainly involves these steps:

9.4. Spool Winding Frame

9.4.1. Machine Details

In the spool winding machine, the

wooden/paper spool centre remains in

surface contact with the spool driver (drum)

for rotation and yarn is separately traversed.

The rate of winding of a machine is about

170-200 yds/min. and the weight of the spool

is about 3 to 5 kg. for package diameter of 8-

10 inch.

Most of the conventional spool winding

machine used in jute industry are similar in

construction and have the following

important features:

Uniformity in winding speed: A

wooden or paper spool centre is

placed on the pin in the spool-carriage; the end of the thread from the bobbin

which is situated below the spool-carriage is drawn off and brought underneath

the spool-centre and wound around it. The carriage is then pulled down to the

stop position from the top of the drum and is, therefore, brought into frictional

contact with the spool driver or drum extending from end to end of the machine.

These spool-drivers (about 4 inch in diameter and 10 inches in length) are plane or

Mounting of spining bobbins

Centering of the spool

Unwinding of the yarn from spinning bobbin

Maintenance of uniform yarn tension throughout the yarn path by means of yarn guides

Uniform winding of the yarn on the spools maintaining the uniform cover

Doffing of the spool packages and replacing them with empty spool centers

Fig 9.b Spool Winding Frame Machine

MoRD Page 58 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

fluted and driven by pulleys of equal size and a cross-belt. These belts are endless

and made specially for this drive and cause the spool driver shafts to revolve in

one direction, namely inward.

Quick traverse of the yarn guide: The rapid traverse necessary for building the

yarn without the aid of flanges, is imparted directly by the yarn guide. All the

guides are changeable to suit different counts of yarn. The yarn guide is rigidly

fixed to the “Traverse Bar”, which is supported by and sides in “guides” or

“brackets” fixed at suitable places on the framework of the machine and this is

attached by a connecting-rod to the Traverse Lever. The Traverse Lever, fulcrumed

at the centre, imparts an equal but opposite movement to the Traverse Bar at the

opposite side of the machine. The rapid traverse motion is conveyed to the

traverse lever. A cam revolves between the anti-friction cones bolted to the

traverse levers and thus imparts necessary motion through the traverse-bars and

the yarn guides which generate the necessary quick traverse-period. The length of

the spools may be varied at will between 7 inches to 10 inches by adjusting the

studs in the slots of the traverse lever. The cam is needed to be greased as it

revolves. The traverse motion builds the yarn on the spool-centre in a criss-cross

fashion and as the “guide” moves in. it is the quickest at the end and the yarn

turns so sharply that it builds up a perfect end without the need of assistance of a

flange.

Automatic stop motion when the spool reaches the desired diameter: The spool-

carriage lever L has an inclined plane P at its end and is fulcrumed at F. The weight-

lever W, fulcrumed at Q about ¼ inches from the end which works up to the plane

P of the Carriage Lever L, has a Catch C which, when it gets over the plane-end of

the Carriage Lever Catch, at once pulls it down, thus withdrawing the spool-

carriage S from the spool-driver D and thus stops the spool at its required diameter

set. The diameter may be varied in size by raising and lowering the stud in the

bracket B and the fulcrum Q of the weight lever W. This is done by means of a set-

screw and a lock-nut. A small spring, washer and nut N on the end of the rod

carrying the weight H and entering a recess in the weight, takes off any vibration

when the weight H drops back into its original position.

Individual tension device: Spinning Bobbins are placed on pins centered beneath

each spool-driver. These bobbins are tensioned by means of a spring R and

weighted lever V. Since it is essential that the pressure should decrease as the

bobbin is exhausted, the Lever is so centered that it gradually approaches a

vertical position and reduces its pressure on the spring R as the diameter of the

bobbin decreases. Capacity of the conventional spool winding machine is 40 spools

on each side, divided into banks of 20. The machines run at about 550 revolutions

per minute, giving winding speed of about 170-220 (say 192) yds./min. with 4

inches diameter spool-drum either plane or fluted. The machines of different

makers having tensioning, cleaning and measuring devices are all built alike but

may differ in small details.

MoRD Page 59 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

9.4.2. Method Study

9.4.2.1. Warp Winding Operator

9.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s:

Knots must be small and firm. Hand knitters with suitable knives must be used for

this purpose.

Tailing end of the knot should be small (use knives/scissors for this purpose).

Maintain uniform tension in all the heads.

6 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Warp Winding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the spinning bobbins from spinning department to winding department by means of B/H 1/1

a barrow.

Sequence of Operations

1. Picking the spinning bobbin from the barrow and feeding the bobbin to the creel with right hand. R/H 1/1

2. Liftting the spool carriage lever upwards and stop the spool carriage rotation (by separating it L/H 1/1

from the spool driver) by left hand.

3. Feeding the empty spool center and adjusting it to the center with both hands. B/H 1/1

4. Find the yarn end in the spinning bobbin and taking the yarn from the bobbin with right hand. R/H 1/1

5. Guide the yarn through the yarn guide to the spool carriage. B/H 1/1

6. Wind the yarn for 2-3 times round the spool center with right hand. R/H 1/1

7. Lower the spool carriage lever and touch it to the spool driver with left hand to start the rotation. L/H 1/1

8. Disengaging the spool package from the spool center and doff the spool package with both hands. B/H 1/1

9. Knotting the yarn (in case of End Breakages) with both hands.

(a) Liftting the spool carriage lever upwards and stop the spool carriage rotation (by separating L/H 1/1

it from the spool driver) by left hand

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

rotation.

Handling after Operation

1. Despatch the full spool packages to the barrow to be taken to Beaming/Twisting and replace B/H 1/1

them with empty ones.

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:6a. Warp Winding

OperatorSpool Winding

Spool Winding Frame

Previous Operation: SpinningSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Twisting/Beaming Descending

(b) Take the yarn from the spinning bobbin with right hand

(c) Take the yarn from the spool carriage with left hand

(d) Form the knot

(e) Lower the spool carriage lever and touch it to the spool driver with left hand to start the

Spool Winding Machine

Warp WindingOperator

Spinning Bobbin Barrow

Spool Package Barrow

MoRD Page 60 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Make the waste of the good yarn minimum at the time of yarn knotting due to

break or feed package change.

Remove the thick places, slubs etc. from the yarn, if visible.

Identify the defective spools (in hardness and centering) and keep them

separately.

Spools and spinning bobbins should be handled carefully. Use trolleys for spools

and spinning bobbins separately.

Release the yarn in taut condition after knotting.

Maintain the machine and its surroundings clean.

Use fully cleaned spool center.

Check whether the yarn is out of the drum-groove during winding on a grooved

drum winding machine. If so, make the yarn to pass through the groove

immediately.

Take proper precaution during change of quality and avoid mixing of bobbins and

spools. Use proper marking.

Always try to improve productivity and reduce wastage of yarns.

Maintain discipline and punctuality at the workplace.

Keep all the waste in waste bag only.

Full spools/cones should be stacked properly.

Don`ts:

Do not join yarn without proper knot.

Do not give/allow loose and/or bigger knots.

Do not allow longer trailing ends in knots.

Do not waste good yarn during knotting/removing faults.

Do not stop the spool rotation by hand, without actuation of stop motion in the

winding machine, for knotting.

Do not use defective or dirty spool centers.

Do not produce oversize or undersize spools.

Do not produce defective spools.

Do not allow variation in diameter of the spools – higher diameter will not fit in the

beaming/pre beaming creel.

Do not damage the bobbin flanges by throwing bobbins on the floors. [Bobbin

cleaners should not scratch the bobbin tubes and tops by knives during cleaning.]

Do not stop the machine more frequently than required. No drum or spindle

should remain idle unnecessarily.

Do not throw waste or any machine parts in the ground.

Do not neglect any of the systematic operations for building the spools.

Do not spit or smoke in the shed.

Do not argue or unnecessary conversation with colleagues/superiors.

MoRD Page 61 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

9.5. Twisting Frame

9.5.1. Machine Details

There are some end uses where the technical requirements

are of a superior preference. These end uses require

superior quality jute yarns, which are normally not

obtained from the conventional process of jute

manufacturing. The processes to manufacture these types

of yarns slightly differ from the conventional one. In this

case, the yarns after the process of spinning undergo one

further process of twisting. This time, two or more number

of yarns are twisted to form one single yarn. The resultant

yarn is also known as “plied yarn”. The structure of the

yarn depends on the number of the yarns it is formed

from. For e.g. If 3 yarns are twisted to form the resultant

yarn, the resultant yarn would be called 3-ply yarn.

In these machines, the spinning bobbins are mounted on

the respective creels at the back of the machine. The yarns are unwinded from each creel

and guided through several machine parts in order to maintain uniform tension. These

yarns are then twisted to form one resultant yarn. The resultant yarn is wound on a much

larger package and is often transferred to the precision winding section for winding of

Export yarns.

Fig 9.c Twisting Frame Machine

MoRD Page 62 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

9.5.2. Method Study

9.5.2.1. Twister

9.5.1. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Knots must be small and firm. Hand knitters with suitable knives must be used for

this purpose.

Tailing end of the knot should be small (use knives/scissors for this purpose).

Make the waste of the good yarn minimum at the time of yarn knotting due to

break or feed package change.

Remove the thick places, slubs etc. from the yarn, if visible.

Identify the defective Yarn Packages (in hardness and centering) and keep them

separately.

6 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module:Warp Winding

and TwistingMachine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the spinning bobbins from spinning department to winding department by means of B/H 1/1

a barrow

Sequence of Operations

1. Picking the spinning bobbin from the barrow and feeding the bobbin to the creel with right hand. R/H 1/1

2. Feeding the empty Yarn Bobbin and adjusting it with both hands. B/H 1/1

3. Find the yarn end in the spinning bobbin and taking the yarn from the bobbin with right hand. R/H 1/1

4. Guide the yarn through the yarn guide to the yarn package. B/H 1/1

5. Wind the yarn for 2-3 times round the package center with right hand. R/H 1/1

6. Start the machine. L/H 1/1

7. Doff the Yarn package with both hands. B/H 1/1

8. Knotting the yarn (in case of End Breakages) with both hands. B/H 1/1

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Despatch the full Yarn packages to the barrow to be taken to Precision Winding Machine and B/H 1/1

replace them with empty ones.

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 6b. Twister Twisting

Twisting Frame

Previous Operation: Spool WindingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Precision Winding Descending

(a) Take the yarn from the spinning bobbin with right hand

(b) Take the yarn from the package (already in running condition) with left hand

(c) Form the knot

Twisting Frame

TwisterSpinning Bobbin Barrow

Creeling Zone

MoRD Page 63 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Spools and spinning bobbins should be handled carefully. Use trolleys for final yarn

packages and spools separately.

Release the yarn in taut condition after knotting.

Check whether the yarn is being guided through the machine parts properly during

winding on a Twisting Frame. If so, make the yarn to pass through the respective

machine parts immediately.

Take proper precaution during change of quality and avoid mixing of bobbins and

spools. Use proper marking.

Full yarn packages should be stacked properly.

Don`ts

Do not join yarn without proper knot.

Do not give/allow loose and/or bigger knots.

Do not allow longer trailing ends in knots.

Do not waste good yarn during knotting/removing faults.

Do not stop the yarn package rotation by hand, without actuation of stop motion

in the winding machine, for knotting.

Do not produce oversize or undersize yarn packages.

Do not stop the machine more frequently than required.

9.6. Precision Winding Frame

9.6.1. Machine Details

The Precision Winders are mainly used for export quality jute

warp yarns or sale yarns. In this case, the spool or cone center

is placed on a rotating spindle and yarn is traversed by a

separate traverse guide. The production of precision winders is

more than the high speed Grooved Winder and the speed is

about 600-700 yds/min. The packages of this machine weigh

about 10-22 kg, with the package diameter 12-18 inch.

Fig 9.c Precision Winding Frame

MoRD Page 64 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

9.6.2. Method Study

9.6.2.1. Precision Winding Operator

9.6.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Knots must be small and firm. Hand knitters with suitable knives must be used for

this purpose.

6 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Yarn Module:Warp Winding

and TwistingMachine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the spinning bobbins from spinning department to winding department by means of B/H 1/1

a barrow

Sequence of Operations

1. Picking the spinning bobbin from the barrow and feeding the bobbin to the creel with right hand. R/H 1/1

2. Moving the Export yarn package carriage lever sideways and stop the carriage rotation (by L/H 1/1

separating it from the driver) by left hand.

3. Feeding the empty feed package center and adjusting it to the center with both hands. B/H 1/1

4. Find the yarn end in the spinning bobbin and taking the yarn from the bobbin with right hand. R/H 1/1

5. Guide the yarn through the yarn guide to the Export yarn package. B/H 1/1

6. Wind the yarn for 2-3 times round the package center with right hand. R/H 1/1

7. Move the package carriage lever sideways (reverse direction)and touch it to the package driver L/H 1/1

with left hand to start the rotation.

8. Disengaging the package from the package center and doff the Export Yarn package with both B/H 1/1

hands.

9. Knotting the yarn (in case of End Breakages) with both hands.

(a) Move the Export yarn package carriage lever sideways and stop the carriage rotation (by L/H 1/1

separating it from the driver) by left hand.

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

driver with left hand to start the rotation.

Handling after Operation

1. Despatch the full packages to the barrow to be taken to Beaming/Packing and replace them B/H 1/1

with empty ones.

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:6c. Precision Winding

OperatorPrecision Winding

Precision Winding

Frame

Previous Operation: TwistingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Beaming/Yarn Packing Descending

(b) Take the yarn from the spinning bobbin with right hand.

(c) Take the yarn from the package with left hand.

(d) Form the knot.

(e) Move the package carriage lever sideways (reverse direction)and touch it to the package

Precision Winding Machine

Precision Winding Operator

Spinning Bobbin Barrow

Yarn Package Barrow

MoRD Page 65 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Tailing end of the knot should be small (use knives/scissors for this purpose).

Make the waste of the good yarn minimum at the time of yarn knotting due to

break or feed package change.

Remove the thick places, slubs etc. from the yarn, if visible.

Identify the defective Precision Yarn Packages (in hardness and centering) and

keep them separately.

Twisted Yarn Packages and Precision wound packages should be handled carefully.

Use trolleys for final yarn packages and spools separately.

Release the yarn in taut condition after knotting.

Check whether the yarn is being guided through the machine parts properly during

winding on a Twisting Frame. If so, make the yarn to pass through the respective

machine parts immediately.

Take proper precaution during change of quality and avoid mixing of bobbins and

spools. Use proper marking.

Full yarn packages should be stacked properly.

Don`ts

Do not join yarn without proper knot.

Do not give/allow loose and/or bigger knots.

Do not allow longer trailing ends in knots.

Do not waste good yarn during knotting/removing faults.

Do not stop the yarn package rotation by hand, without actuation of stop motion

in the winding machine, for knotting.

Do not produce oversize or undersize yarn packages.

Do not stop the machine more frequently than required.

9.7. Faults in Winding

Some common defects of spools are mentioned below:

Cob Webbing: It is a very serious defect. When the traversing yarn goes over the

edge of the spool, a “cobweb” is formed. If it happens to all the spools in one row,

the fault is in the “traverse arrangement set-up”. The Cam itself might have

occurred in the connection between the cam-followers and the traverse bars.

Since maximum power is required at the reversal of directions of traverse, cams

must not momentarily slow down at these points due to mechanical reasons. Cob

webbing of individual spools sporadically may be due to the following:

Slackness or much worn out thread guide or slackness/ or wear and tear of

the traverse bar

Axial movement of the spool center on the spool carrier bracket, i.e. too

much play between spool center and spool carriage

Larger holes for wooden spool centers and smaller spool center

Slots in the spool carrier may be too worn, providing space for spool center

for too much play and thus causing the spool center to float in the axial

direction

MoRD Page 66 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Improper fitting of the spool center

Slack or worn out yarn guides

Bulging Ends: It is due to insufficient yarn tension. Causes may be:

Defective tensioning device, causing variation in winding tension

“Sticking” or irregular movement of the spool carrier bracket as the spool

builds up

Irregular or varied pressure on the spools

Soft Package:

It happens mainly due to low winding tension

It can also be for choice of lower dead weight than required

Wrong Centering:

Improper setting of the traverse bar/thread guide

Improper length of spool center may cause this defect.

9.8. Hard Wastes and its Control

Some amount of waste in winding is unavoidable, but

a reduction of small percentage of waste for good

yarn can save a huge amount of rupees per year in a

mill. So the amount of hard waste at winding should

be as low as possible.

For minimum waste reduction in winding, the

following points must be followed:

Spinning bobbins must be fully consumed /

emptied.

Length of yarn removed for eliminating slubs/thick or thin places etc. should be

also as small as possible. Unnecessary good yarn shall not be removed, during

removing yarn faults.

Length of tail ends removed after knotting should be as small as possible.

Defective or faulty spool packages should not be produced.

Yarn should be taken out from the dirty bobbin with care, so that good yarn shall

not be allowed to go to waste.

Empty spinning bobbins during transportation should not come in contact with oil,

grease etc.

Spools produced should be stacked properly with care and proper identification

mark of quality.

Unnecessary good yarn shall not be allowed to remove or to go as waste, while

repairing a defective spool package or removing a fault from feed package.

Always use waste bag for keeping yarn waste.

There shall not be any scratch or cut mark or deposition dirts etc. on the empty

bobbin particularly near the flanges.

Fig 9.d Waste Spools

MoRD Page 67 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

9.9. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Spool Mazdoor Carrying the Spool packages from Winding Department to Twisting/Beaming Department

9.10. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

5 Days 9 Days

1 2 3 4 5

9.1

9.2

9.3

9.4

9.4.1

9.4.2

9.4.2.1 Warp Winding Operator

9.4.3

9.5

9.5.1

9.5.2

9.4.2.1 Precision Winding Operator

9.5.3

9.6

9.5.1

9.5.2

9.4.2.1 Twister

9.5.3

9.7

9.8

9.9

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

9.1

9.2

9.3

9.4

9.4.1

9.4.2

9.4.2.1 Warp Winding Operator

9.4.3

9.5

9.5.1

9.5.2

9.4.2.1 Precision Winding Operator

9.5.3

9.6

9.5.1

9.5.2

9.4.2.1 Twister

9.5.3

9.7

9.8

9.9 Mazdoor Activities

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Faults in Winding

Hard Wastes and its Control

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

Introduction

Objectives of Spool Winding

Methodology

TWISITNG FRAME

Do`s and Don`ts

TWISITNG FRAME

Machine Details

Machine Details

Do`s and Don`ts

Machine Details

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

PRECISION WINDING FRAME

Method Study

MODULE 6 : WARP WINDING AND TWISTING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Introduction

Objectives of Spool Winding

Methodology

SPOOL WINDING FRAME

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

PRECISION WINDING FRAME

Machine Details

Machine Details

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Types of Mazdoor

SPOOL WINDING FRAME

Method Study

Machine Details

Faults in Winding

Hard Wastes and its Control

MoRD Page 68 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

10. MODULE 7: COP WINDING OF JUTE YARN

10.1. Introduction

In case of cop winding, no package-centre is used.

Instead jute weft yarn is wound in a cop winding

machine on a steel cop spindle which is slightly tapered

at the top and once the cop is fully wound, the spindle is

taken out from the hard-wound package and another

cycle of cop winding starts. Thus, the cop is hard but

hollow. Here also the yarn is made to traverse

lengthwise to lay the yarn suitably in a specified length

of nose part (cast iron hollow cone). The diameter of the

cop is also determined by the hollow cone (nose part)

through which the spindle passes. The yarn is only

wound on that portion of the spindle which is inside the

cone, the traverse part working in that region only. Cop

diameter steadily builds up to the extent permitted by

the cone diameter and at the same time the spindle

moves upward to present fresh positions to the traversing yarn. Thus, minor changes

could only be done through the adjustments in traverse, major changes being through the

change in cop cone design. As usual, winding takes place inside the cop cone, it causes the

cop to have a conical “nose” part at the finishing end of the cop after the cop is doffed

taking out the machine spindle on which the cop is built.

The performance of the cop during running of the loom mainly depends upon the

unwinding of the cop and the fitting of the cop inside the shuttle cavity. More number of

breakages and sloughing off result more loss in efficiency and wastage of yarn. So, the cop

should be well built i.e. its dimension (length and diameter) shall be according to the

shuttle where it is used and it should be neither very hard nor very soft.

10.2. Objective

To produce a suitable package known as cop under uniform tension to be used as

weft in shuttle from spinning bobbin (wound package should be used instead of

spinning bobbin for better quality of cop)

10.3. Dimensions and Yarn Content of Cop

Parameters Hessian Sacking Broad Loom

Length in inch 10-12 10-10.5 11-15

Diameter in inch 1.75 1.5-1.75 2-2.5

Weight in grams 200-250 180-220 250-350

10.4. Methodology

Following are the steps followed in the process of Cop Winding:

Fig 10.a Cop Winding Frame

MoRD Page 69 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

10.5. Cop Winding Frame

This type of Cop Winding machine consists of vertically

reciprocating sensitive lever and yarn builder. Here cop cone is

upright and cop is made from spinning bobbin.

10.5.1. Machine Details

The main parts of a vertical cop winding machine is shown and

described below:

Main Shaft (A): This shaft receives motion from machine

pulley which in turn transfer motion to the cop spindles.

Helical (Bevel) Wheel: The helical wheel is fixed on the

main shaft by means of a key.

Helical (Bevel) Pinion: Helical pinion receives motion

from helical wheel for rotation of the spindle.

Spindle (G): The spindle is a rod where the yarn

accumulates for the making of cop. The spindle is

square at the top and rounded at the bottom. The

spindle is also slightly tapered at the top.

Clutch and Clutch Lever (D and H): The Helical pinion

and clutch are kept in driving position by joining clutch

lever. The spindle rotation stops when the clutch lever

falls.

Trigger (X): It helps in connecting the helical pinion with

clutch.

Rocking Shaft: Rocking Shaft receives its motion from

main shaft by means of an eccentric drive.

Connecting Rod (M): It connects the rocking shaft with

Feeding the Spinning bobbins

Setting of the machine parameters as per required cop speifications

Start the proces of winding by winding the yarn on the spindle cap

Knotting the yarn in case of ed breakage with minimum yarn wastage

Doffing of the cop properly

Dispatch of the cops to the weaving department

Fig 10.b Cop Winding Frame- Machine Details

MoRD Page 70 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

the yarn builder for transmitting the motion from the rocking shaft to the yarn

builder.

Yarn Builder (N): It is responsible for building up the yarn into the cop.

Sensitive Lever (I): Machine running is sensed by it. It is raised upward during

starting of the machine.

Porcelain Guide (K): It is attached at one end of the sensitive lever. It gives support

to the yarn and maintains tension on the yarn.

Collar (P): It is fitted in the stop rod. It releases the trigger when the footstep

bracket touches it after winding of desired length of cop.

Cop cone (L): The nose of the cop grows in the cop cone. The diameter of the cop

is determined by the angle of the cop cone and the distance travelled by the yarn

builder.

Lock nuts (S and S1): Lock nuts are mounted on the threaded portion on top of the

eccentric shaft. Diameter of the cop cone can be changed by the movement of lock

nuts along the length of the bracket.

Spindle Cap: Spindle cap is loosely mounted on the thread of top of the spindle. It

has a good relation with spindle rotation. If the spindle rotates the spindle cap

automatically helps in making cops with pre determined cop length and makes the

yarn end to emerge through the hole at cop end. During building of the cop, the tip

of the yarn is held tightly at the top of the spindle cap so that the final package

becomes hard sufficiently.

MoRD Page 71 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

10.5.2. Method Study

10.5.2.1. Cop Winding Operator

10.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s:

Knots must be small and tight. Use hand knitters available in winding.

Tail end of the knot should be as small as possible (use knives/scissors for this

purpose).

Maintain uniform tension in all the cops winding spindle head.

Allow minimum waste of good yarn at the time of yarn knotting due to break or

feed package change.

Remove thick places, slubs etc. from the yarn, if visible during knotting.

Identify the defective cops and keep them separately.

Check length and diameter of cops frequently.

7 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Cop Winding Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Leg Used Freq

1. Carrying the spinning bobbins from spinning department to winding department by means of B/H 1/1

a barrow

Sequence of Operations

1. Picking the spinning bobbin from the barrow and feeding the bobbin to the creel with right hand. R/H 1/1

2. Find the yarn end in the spinning bobbin and taking the yarn from the bobbin with right hand. L/H 1/1

3. Guide the yarn through the yarn guide (porceiling guide) to the spindle top.

4. Wind the yarn for 2-3 times round the spindle top with right hand.

5. On complete formation of the package, doffing of the cop. R/H 1/1

(a) Move the clutch lever downwards with right hand to stop the spindle drive. R/H 1/1

(b) Press the foot step with right leg downwards to disengage the cop from the spindle. R/L 1/1

(c) Doff the cop with right hand. R/H 1/1

6. Knotting the yarn (in case of End Breakages) with both hands.

(a) Move the clutch lever downwards with right hand to stop the spindle drive. L/H 1/1

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Despatch the full spool packages to the barrow to be taken to Beaming/Twisting and replace B/H 1/1

them with empty ones.

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:7. Cop Winding

OperatorCop Winder

Cop Winding Frame

Previous Operation: SpinningSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Weaving Descending

(b) Take the yarn from the spinning bobbin with right hand.

(c) Take the yarn from the cop with left hand.

(d) Form the knot.

(e) Move the clutch lever upwards with right hand to start the spindle drive.

Cop Winding Machine

Cop Winder

Spinning Bobbin Barrow

CopPackage Barrow

MoRD Page 72 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Take proper precautions during change of quality and avoid lot mixing.

Cop bundles and feed bobbins should be handled carefully. Tie bundle of full cops

with cop band fitted with iron clips and put the bundle in cop box. Use trolleys for

transport of feed bobbins.

Release yarn in taut condition after knotting.

Maintain the machine and its surrounding clean.

Maintain discipline and punctuality at the work place.

Always try to improve productivity and reduce wastage.

Use the quality mark for all cop bundles properly.

Don`ts:

Do not join yarn without knot

Do not produce loose and/or bigger knots.

Do not produce longer tailing ends.

Do not waste good yarn during knotting.

Do not produce oversize or undersize cops.

Do not produce defective cops.

Do not mix-up different quality of cops i.e. avoid count mixing (marking shall be

strictly adhered)

Do not allow variation in diameter or length of the cops.

Do not stop any spindle unnecessarily.

Do not throw waste in the ground.

Do not tie any cop bundle without cop band with clip.

Do not damage the bobbin flanges by throwing bobbins on the floor. Bobbin

cleaners should not scratch the bobbin tubes and tops by knives during cleaning.

Do not stop the machine early before the end of the shift.

10.6. Faults in Cop Winding

Soft Cop: It occurs due to low yarn

tension (mainly due to improper

weight on the foot step bracket). Soft

cop will easily break and sloughing off

may occur.

Hard Cop: If additional weight is placed

on the foot step bracket, yarn tension

increases and the cop produced is

hard. Release of the yarn from the

shuttle will be difficult and weft breaks

during weaving.

Over and under diameter of cop: It is due to loose or wrong adjustment of traverse

mechanism.

Over and under length of cop: It is due to loose or wrong positioning of the collar

on the stop rod.

Blunt nose cop: It is due to lesser movement of yarn builder than required.

Fig 10.c Waste Cops

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Bullet nose cop: It is due to greater movement of the yarn builder than required.

Missing end: It occurs due to – (i) yarn breakage at the contact point of the spindle,

and (ii) loose knot.

Irregular cop: It is produced due to worn out cop cone.

10.7. Hard Wastes and its Control

Some amount of waste in cop winding is unavoidable, but a reduction of small percentage

of waste of good yarn can save a huge amount of rupees per year in a mill. So the amount

of hard waste at cop winding should be as low as possible. For minimum waste in cop

winding, the following points must be followed:

All feed bobbins must be fully consumed.

Length of tail ends removed after knotting should be as small as possible.

Length of yarn removed for eliminating slubs/thick or thin places etc. should be as

small as possible.

Defective or faulty cops should not be produced.

Cops shall be stacked and transported with care.

Feed bobbins full or empty and cops should not come in contact with oil, grease,

etc.

Unnecessary good yarn shall not be wasted.

Waste bags should be used for keeping yarn waste.

10.8. Productivity: Control Measures

Control of productivity at cop winding will require estimation of optimum spindle

allocation to a winder and the expected efficiency and productivity at that allocation. This

depends on the following:

End breakage rate.

Winding speed.

Yarn content per cop

Condition of spinning bobbins.

Workload on winder

Miscellaneous machine stops

Production in weight of any cop winding machine depends on the following:

Winding speed (yds/min)

Efficiency (%)

Number of spindles in the machine

Running count of the yarn

10.9. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Cop Mazdoor Carrying the Cop packages from Winding Department to Weaving Department

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10.10. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

5 Days 9 Days

1 2 3 4 5

10.1 Introduction

10.2 Objective

10.3 Dimensions and Yarn Content of Cop

10.4 Methodology

10.5 COP WINDING FRAME

10.4.1 Machine Details

10.4.2 Method Study

10.4.2.1 Cop Winding Operator

10.4.3 Do`s and Don`ts

10.6 Faults in Winding

10.7 Hard Wastes and its Control

10.8 Productivity: Control Measures

10.9 Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

10.1 Introduction

10.2 Objective

10.3 Dimensions and Yarn Content of Cop

10.4 Methodology

10.5 COP WINDING FRAME

10.4.1 Machine Details

10.4.2 Method Study

10.4.2.1 Cop Winding Operator

10.4.3 Do`s and Don`ts

10.6 Faults in Winding

10.7 Hard Wastes and its Control

10.8 Productivity: Control Measures

10.9

MODULE 7 : COP WINDING

Mazdoor Activities

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

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11. MODULE 8: SIZING AND BEAMING OF JUTE YARN

11.1. Introduction

Two sets of yarns namely warp and weft yarns; are necessary for making a cloth. Both

warp and weft yarns need specific preparation before those are placed in a loom for

weaving. Desired length of warp yarns (from spools/cones) in a specified numbers are

wound on a beam tube called warp beam to make it convenient to place it at the back of

loom to make a fabric of specified design and construction by weaving. Weaving is a

process of interlacement of two sets of yarns namely warps (along the length of fabric)

and weft (across the width of the fabric) placed at right angles to each other.

Warp yarns are supplied to the weaving machine (i.e. loom) in a sheet form wrapped on

an iron tube centre with flanges called weaver`s beam or warp beam. This sheet of warp

yarns has to bear the weaving tension as well as frictional contacts and repeated abrasion,

warp yarns during the weaving cycle. Therefore, to withstand the weaving tension and

repeated abrasion, warp yarns during preparation of weaver`s beam, are coated with

paste of some gummy or adhesive size materials. This coating helps in laying the surface

hairs of warp yarns and improves its frictional resistance and ability to withstand weaving

tension. Thus it reduces warp-yarn breakages in weaving and increases weaving efficiency.

Thus, to fulfill the weaving requirements and to obtain optimum level of weaving

production, sizing/ dressing of warp yarns is very important before the warp yarns are

wound on an empty beam. A good quality weaver`s beam is essential for minimum warp

breakage during weaving.

11.2. Objective

To produce a sheet of warp yarns from large number of individual spools/cones

according to runners required in cloth.

To coat the warp yarns with size paste to improve the weaveability of the warp

(weavability means the ability of the warp to withstand the stress-strain and

abrasion, the warp is subjected to in every loom cycle)

11.3. Methodology

11.3.1. Creeling of yarn bobbins

After the warp winding process, the spool packages are

converted into a much larger package or rather a “beam”.

The spools are mounted respectively in respective creels. The

yarn is unwinded from each spool and this yarn is wound on a

beam forming what is known as warp beam. This process of

mounting of the spool packages in respective slots for the

purpose of unwinding is known as Creeling.

Fig 11.a Creeling

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11.3.2. Denting

The warp yarns withdrawn from the spools are

guided through various machine parts to the

warp beam. The warp yarns after the spool

are passed through vertical slots separating

the warp yarns in the sheet. This is done to

facilitate proper size impregnation to each

yarn during the process of sizing. Each yarn is

passed through a vertical slot (known as dent)

in the reed and is passed to the size paste

impregnation section. This process of guiding

the yarn through the dents in the reed is

known as Denting.

11.3.3. Winding the yarn on the beam

The warp yarns after being passed through the respective Dents in the reed passes to the

warp beam through the size paste impregnation section. It is here that the size paste gets

penetrated in the yarn and does the needful. After this, the yarns are wound on the beam

with uniform tension and maintaining an uniform warp density on the package. An

uniform tension during the winding of warp yarns on the beam is very important as it

facilitated removal of several yarn faults (like slubs, thick and thin places etc.)

11.3.4. Minimization of yarn fault

As mentioned earlier, most of the End breakage occurs in the process of Weaving and is it

to minimize these occurrences of yarn faults that the warp yarns are wound on a larger

package in a uniform tension. The yarns faults present in the yarn even after the winding

process gets eliminated during this process. Moreover, the beaming operator keeps an

eye over the flow of warp yarns and rectifies any yarn fault if found.

11.4. Sizing and Beaming Machine

11.4.1. Machine Details

A Sizing and Beaming machine has the following zones:

Creel Zone

Sow-Box Entry and Guide Reed Zone

Sow- Box or Starch Roller Zone

Entry to Drying Zone

Cylinder to Drying Zone

Leasing Zone

Beam Entry and Tensioning Zone

Beam Winding Zone

Spools are generally used as feed package for Beaming/Sizing of jute warp yarn for

hessian fabric. The spools, depending on type of winding machine used, weigh 3-7 kg. The

capacity and size of the Creel where the Spools are arranged depends on the number of

Fig 11.c Sizing and Beaming Machine

Fig 11.b Denting

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warp yarns or runners (depending on width and porter of the fabric). So, for denser and

higher width fabric, creel size is to bigger. Cramming of too many warp yarns on a drying

cylinder will cause inadequate drying of sized yarn and again very low number of warp

yarns will lead to under utilization of drying capacity.

In the creel zone, jute warp yarns drawn from the spools pass through porcelain guides or

eyelets mounted on the creel. The yarns then pass through a Guide Reed of suitable

porter fixed on the machine. All the ends pass under a bar placed just before the reed, so

that all the ends enter the first guide reed at the same level. Emerging from the reed, the

yarn sheet passes through the nip of pair of rollers, placed one above the other in the

starch box (sow-box). The lower roller, called the starch roller, is coated with copper or

stainless steel and is partly immersed in size/starch paste in the sow box. The size paste is

piped in from the storage tank. The upper roller is called the Pressing or Squeezing Roller.

The starch paste adheres the surface of the starch roller when it is in rotation in sow-box

and the yarn sheet gets a coating of size mixture when it passes over the starch roller. The

squeeze roller has a wrapping of thick felt or “Plaiding Cloth” for avoiding damage to the

yarns and for efficient squeezing of excess soze paste.

The squeezed but wet yarn then enters another guide reed. This reed is so provided that

the yarn ends are uniformly distributed to cover the maximum width if the steam

cylinders. The yarn sheet coming out of this reed is then guided for entering to this Drying

Zone by a guide roller to the first steam cylinder. The guide roller is so positioned that the

warp sheet covers the maximum circumference of the cylinder. Normally 3 cylinder

machine is more common in Jute industry though 5 cylinder machine is also found.

The dried yarn sheet after coming out of the Drying Zone passes through a Lease Reed

before the yarns enter the Tensioning zone. In the beginning the yarn sheet passing out of

the lease reed is split into four or five parts and the end of each part knotted. The empty

beam shunk has, along the length, several keyhole shaped holes. The knots are pushed in

those holes and are made to lock in. The beam is then rotated slowly to wind a couple of

yarn layers. The beam pressing roller is then lowered on the beam and the machine is run

at normal speed for winding warp sheet on weaver`s beam.

The starch roller is driven from the main shaft and draws the yarn from the spools. The

beam is similarly driven through an adjustable Friction Clutch Drive Arrangement. This is

necessary to maintain a constant linear speed of winding of warp yarn on beam with the

increase in beam diameter as more and more yarn is wound. This linear speed must match

the linear speed of the starch roller.

Through an adjustable gearing arrangement, the warp yarn sheet is marked with a pair of

large coloured dots of a dye or a single large dot of a dye, known as Keel mark or Cut mark

and this marking is repeated after each pre-determined length. The length between two

successive marks is called the Laid Length or Cut Length.

MoRD Page 78 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

11.4.2. Method Study

11.4.2.1. Feeder

8 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Sizing & Beaming Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the spool packages from winding department to Beaming department by means of B/H 1/1

a barrow

Sequence of Operations

1. Picking the spool packages from the barrow and feeding the packages to the creel with right hand. R/H 1/1

2. Find the yarn end in the spool package, take the yarn and pass the yarn with right hand through R/H 1/1

the porceilin guide/eyelet mounted on creel.

3. Pass the yarn through the dents of the Guide Reed and following machine parts with both hands B/H 1/1

(only if the process parameters are changes)

4. Knotting the yarn (after complete exhaustion of spool packages or due to any end breakage) B/H 1/1

with both hands.

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 8a. Feeder Sizing & Beaming

Sizing and Beaming

Machine

Previous Operation: Spool WindingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Beam Receiving Descending

(a) Take the yarn from the newly fed Spool Package with right hand

(b) Take the yarn already in motion in the motion

(c) Form the knot

SpoolPckageBarrow

Creeling Zone Beaming Machine

Feeder

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11.4.2.2. Receiver

11.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Mount spools carefully on creel so that they rotate freely on the creel.

Use each spool in the creel until the same is completely emptied

Clean surface of the cylinders, guide reed, lease reed, sow-box, as per schedule

Check periodically the felt-cloth (plaiding cloth)

Align warp yarns on the extreme selvedge so that these extreme warp yarns do

not fall on flanges or wrap over the flanges.

Ensure no slippage in gear/belt in the driving arrangement of starch roller.

Check whether all warp enters the nip of starch roller and squeeze roller at same

level.

Carrying and handling of spools and full beam should be done carefully

Avoid missing ends by providing runners from additional small spools for instant

rectification

Count the number of runners before doffing

8 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Sizing & Beaming Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Pass the yarn through the dents of the Guide Reed at the receiving side of the Beaming machine B/H 1/1

(on the occurrence of any End Breakage).

2. Knotting the yarn (after complete exhaustion of spool packages or due to any end breakage) B/H 1/1

with both hands.

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

3. Stops the machine for doffing of the Beam : Doffs the Beam by disengaging the Beam with B/H 1/1

both hands.

Handling after Operation

1.Disposal of full warp beam to the Carts for being taken to the Weaving Department B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 8b. Receiver Beaming

Sizing and Beaming

Machine

Previous Operation: Beam FeedingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Weaving Descending

(a) Take the yarn from the newly fed Spool Package with right hand

(b) Take the yarn already in motion in the motion

(c) Form the knot

Cart for Warp Beam disposal

Beaming Machine

Receiver

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Tighten the beam flanges properly with double bolts, before mounting the empty

beam on the machine

Spread the warp yarns uniformly

Don`ts

Don`t throw empty spool centres here and there

Don`t reject spool centres with any layer of yarns remaining

Don`t allow deposition of short fibre on the cylinder due to adherence of sized

loose fibers coming out of yarns

Don`t use spoiled and old size paste without checking its quality

Don`t allow missing/crossed/entangled ends

Don`t allow high level of moisture on the beam

Don`t allow sticking of yarns to each other

11.5. Waste Control in Sizing and Beaming Machine

There are three types of wastages in the Sizing/Beaming Department viz. wastage of

yarns, size paste and steam. Yarns are wasted mainly due to taking out of spool centres

which are not completely emptied. This leads to winding of one quality of yarn on the

spool centre containing small amount of previous yarn of different quality, thus causing a

quality mix-up, and wastage. A good quality spool prepared in winding department and

using of the same until completely emptied during beam preparation, can reduce the yarn

waste to a considerable amount. Thus, yarn wastage in this department can be minimized

by ensuring:

Spool change after full emptying of running spools.

Using good quality spools only.

Increasing spool content.

Equal length of yarn in each spool.

In order to minimize size paste wastage proper maintenance of:

The level of size paste

Condition of the bushes of starch roller

Condition of Sow box

No leakage in pipeline

Steam wastage can be minimized by:

Proper insulation of steam pipes

Stopping all leakages in steam line and joints

Stopping steam flow when the machine is idle

Maintaining proper steam pressure uniformly

11.6. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Beaming Mazdoor Unloads the heavy warp beam and carries to the Weaving Department

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11.7. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

6 Days 15 Days

1 2 3 4 5 6

11.1 Introduction

11.2 Objective

11.3

11.3.1

11.3.2

11.3.3

11.3.4

11.4

11.4.1

11.4.2

11.4.2.1 Feeder

11.4.2.2 Receiver

11.4.3

11.5

11.6 Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

11.1 Introduction

11.2 Objective

11.3

11.3.1

11.3.2

11.3.3

11.3.4

11.4

11.4.1

11.4.2

11.4.2.1 Feeder

11.4.2.2 Receiver

11.4.3

11.5

11.6

Minimization of yarn fault

SIZING AND BEAMING MACHINE

Machine Details

Method Study

Do`s and Don`ts

Waste Control in Sizing and Beaming Machine

Methodology

Creeling of yarn bobbins

MODULE 8 : SIZING AND BEAMING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Methodology

Creeling of yarn bobbins

Denting

Winding the yarn on the beam

Do`s and Don`ts

Waste Control in Sizing and Beaming Machine

Mazdoor Activities

Denting

Winding the yarn on the beam

Minimization of yarn fault

SIZING AND BEAMING MACHINE

Machine Details

Method Study

MoRD Page 82 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

12. MODULE 9: WEAVING OF JUTE YARN

12.1. Introduction

The method of interlacement by placing two sets

of yarns (warp and weft yarns) at right angles to

each other by laying the warp yarns along the

length of the fabric and laying the weft yarns

along the width of the fabric, to produce a fabric

of definite specification and design is known as

Weaving. The machine used for this purpose is

known as Loom. Warp yarns are supplied to the

loom in the form of a sheet of warp yarns

wrapped on a tabular beam with flanges called

warp beam or weaver`s beam. For a particular

fabric, a beam of definite number of warp yarns (runners) is fitted at the back of the loom.

The warp yarns from the warp beam are drawn through different parts and accessories

(from warp beam to cloth roller) of the loom in such a way so that it can be divided into

two sets/layers/groups by passing it through mail-eye of the cambs. By controlling the up

and down movements of the cambs, the warp yarns are separated into two layers to form

a shed through which the shuttle containing cop lays the weft yarns during picking

according to the fabric design. Further placing weft yarns to the cloth fell and number of

picks/inch in a fabric is controlled by beating and take-up motions assembly. In jute mills,

all looms are electrically motor driven (either individual motor or line shaft) and over pick

type.

Weaving is the process where the yarns are converted into fabric. These fabrics reach the

market in the form of fabrics or bags of desired specifications after cutting and stitching as

well as after finishing of fabrics and bags. Therefore, weaving is the main production area

where ultimate product of the Jute Industry is generated / produced and any fault

generated in weaving remains visible/detectable in the marketable product unless it is

very minor and repairable at the finishing stage. Thus, for production of the final product

(fabric or bags from fabric) of jute industry with minimum defects, the activities of this

department and setting / tuning / maintenance and smooth running of the loom i.e. the

job of the weavers are considered to be very important. Hence, the weaving process of a

loom as a machine is very important in the process line of manufacturing Jute fabrics with

maximum efficiency and maintaining good/standard quality.

Weaving is the most labour intensive department. So, efficiency of this department has a

great bearing on conversion cost for fabric. Therefore, even a fractional improvement in

weaving productivity as well as quality results enormous benefit. This improvement may

be obtained through training of the workmen related to weaving in a mill.

12.2. Objective

The main objective of weaving process is to achieve proper interlacement of two sets of

yarns (warp and weft) in loom to produce a fabric with minimum defects and of desired

Fig 12.a Weaving Loom

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specification. For the purpose of weaving, warp yarns are supplied to the loom of a sheet,

wrapped on weaver`s beam. These warp yarns are divided into two layers or groups to

form shed by the movement of cambs with the help of shedding motion. By means of the

picking system of the loom a shuttle lays the weft yarns in the shed across the width for

achieving proper interlacement. The weft is then placed to the cloth fell by the movement

of the sley with reed. Thus, the main responsibility or aim of a weaver is to properly check

and monitor these motions for running the loom smoothly to produce almost a fault-free

fabric of maximum length with highest loom efficiency per shift. Thus, keeping desired

fabric quality in mind, setting and tuning of motions in loom to produce maximum length

of fabric with minimum defects are very important to a weaver.

12.3. Specification and Quality of Jute fabrics

To judge the quality of a jute fabric, the following parameters should be described:

Width of the fabric: 40 inch, 26.5 inch. etc.

Weight of the fabric: Generally it is expressed in ozs/yd. However, at present

many of the customers demand to express it in grams per square meter (GSM)

which is more generalized form accepted universally.

Cloth Porter and Reed Porter: To define the density of the warp yarns in the

fabric, a number termed as “Porter” or “Cloth Porter” is used, which can be

defined as below :

Cloth Porter = (Number of warp yarns in 1.85 inch) .

Number of warp yarns per dent of the reed

Similarly, number of dents or splits per 1.85 inch of the reed fitted on the sley of

loom is called “Reed Porter”. Number of yarns per dent of the reed depends on

the fabric design or weave. For example, in case of Hessian fabric, usually 2 yarns

are drawn through each dent. Sometimes, for double warp hessian, 2 yarns are

drawn through each mail-eye and in that case, the number of warp yarns per dent

would be 4. Again, for sacking fabric, in 3 camb sacking loom, usually 2 yarns are

drawn per mail eye and in that case, number of warp yarns per dent would be 6.

Number of warp yarns can also be expressed by number of warp yarns per inch or

Ends per decimeter respectively.

Shots of the Fabric: To define the density of weft yarns in a fabric, a term called

“shots” are used. Shots of a fabric are the number of weft yarns per inch in the

fabric. Shots of the fabric are thus picks per inch of a fabric. It can also be

expressed as picks per decimeter when required.

Weft insertion Rate: Since RPM (revolutions per minute) and PPM (picks per

minute) of a loom reduces with the increase in reed space, nowadays loom speed

is expressed in terms of weft insertion which is the product of effective (usable)

reed space and loom ppm. This means that if the reed space is not fully utilized,

then there is loss in production. For standard Hessian and Sacking looms, the PPM

of the loom is obtained by subtracting the reed space from a constant. Although

most of the people accept 200 as constant, the constant can be considered as 210,

if the looms are well maintained and tuned.

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12.4. Methodology

There are various types of motions in the loom. A flowchart showing the methodology of

the process of weaving in loom is shown below:

DIFFERENT MOTIONS OF LOOM

Primary Motions Secondary Motions Auxiliary Motions

Shedding

Picking

Beating

Let-Off

Pick-up

Warp Protector Motion

Auto Cop Loader Motion

Others, such as Weft Fork,

Oscillating

12.4.1. Primary Motions

12.4.1.1. Shedding

It is the motion of dividing the warp yarn sheet into two layers by means of cam/tappet.

Shedding wyper or tappet is commonly used in jute looms for weaving hessian and

sacking fabrics. The dividing of the two layers of warp sheet depends on the design of the

fabric to be manufactured. The warp sheets are mainly divided from each other by means

of healds. The movement of the healds/cambs is controlled by shedding tappets and top

roller mounting system. The warp yarns pass through the mail-eyes of two or three

healds. These healds move up and down during the process of weaving which separates

the two warp sheet layers and makes space for the weft yarn to pass through. This

movement is termed as Shedding and the space thus formed by the two warp sheets is

termed as shed.

12.4.1.2. Picking

Picking is the motion for passing of the weft from one side of the loom to the other. The

weft yarn package is known as Cop which is loaded inside a wooden box named shuttle.

This shuttle passes from one side of the loom to the other when the shed is formed. This

passing of weft from one side of the loom to the other is termed as Picking. There are

actually two types of Picking: underpick and overpick. Normally overpick mechanism is

used in Jute Mills.

12.4.1.3. Beating

After the passage of the weft yarn from one side to another side, the warp yarn sheets

come at the same level and the last pick (weft yarn passed) is moved to the fell of the

cloth. This phenomenon is done by means of the movement of the reed fitted on the sley.

Each time after a pick has taken place, the reed moves to the fell of the cloth thereby

moving the weft yarn to the fell of the cloth and resulting in the fabric formation.

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12.4.2. Secondary Motions

12.4.2.1. Let-Off

The process of weaving is the conversion of yarn into the fabric. The war beam and the

cloth beam are situated on the opposite sides of the looms. As the pick takes place, the

newly fed weft yarn moves to the fell of the cloth and one unit of fabric production takes

place. The fabric thus formed is wound on a cloth beam and from the other side, the warp

yarns are un winded from the warp beam.

12.4.2.2. Take-Up

Take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving zone at a predetermined rate that

will give the required picks/inch and then winds the cloth on the cloth roller in every loom

cycle. It is intermittent and positively driven and popularly known as three wheel or five

wheel take-up motion. One of the gears is the shotting change pinion which controls picks

per inch in the fabric called shots. An increase in take-up rate reduces picks per inch and

vice-versa.

12.4.3. Auxiliary Motions

12.4.3.1. Warp Protector Motion (fast reed type)

An arrangement to protect the warp yarns from breakage by stopping the loom when

shuttle is trapped inside the shed for failing to reach in the other side shuttle box.

12.4.3.2. Weft Fork

This is a device to detect the presence of weft during weaving and also to stop the loom if

weft is broken or exhausted. This is mainly used in sacking loom.

12.4.3.3. Oscillating or Vibrating Backrest

The function of the motion is to reduce warp tension when the shed is fully open and also

to minimize the reed mark on the cloth.

12.4.3.4. Automatic cop change arrangement or Automatic Cop Loader Motion

(Ecco-Loader)

This is an attachment to load the shuttle with a new cop when earlier cop in the shuttle is

exhausted or emptied in running condition of loom. It improves the efficiency of the loom

and it is mainly used in jute sacking loom.

12.5. Shuttle Looms

12.5.1. Machine Details

In Jute mills, normally two/three types of looms

are found such as – Hessian, Sacking and Carper

Backing (rarely) looms. The difference between

Hessian and Sacking looms are that three healds

are present in Sacking Looms whereas two healds

are present in Hessian Looms. Fig 12.b Shuttle Loom Diagram

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The different parts of Jute loom for different motions of loom are:

Shedding

Top Roller mounting and Camb Rollers (small and bog bowl)

Front and Back Camb Heald.

Straps for Back and Front Heald/Camb

Front and Back Counter March

Front and Back Treadle (Iron) Stud

Front and Back Treadle Stud

Treadle Levers for Back and Front Healds

Heel Pin

Treadle Bowls for Back and Front Healds

Shedding Wyper/Tappet for Back and Front Healds

Mail-Eyes or Eyelets (in cambs)

Lease Rod

Picking

Picking Strap (short and long)

Picking arm/handle

Rosette (Top and Bottom)

Picking Shaft

Picking Wyper (Nose, Truck-plate, Truck) and Picking Bowl

Picking Stud and Cone

Picker and Picking Spindle

Buffer and Buffer Tongue

Protector Rod

Swell Spring and Finger / Lifter

Swell Wood

Shuttle Box and Shuttle

Martingle Strap or Check Strap

Foot Step Bush

Beating

Connecting Arm

Sley

Sley Sword and Sley Race

Reed (on Sley)

Crank

Crank Shaft

Top Shell

Rocking Shaft

Take- Up

Pin Roller

Cloth Roller

MoRD Page 87 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Breast Beam (Front Rail)

Shotting Change Pinion and Compound Pinion

Pushing Pawl and Retaining or Releasing Pawl

Ratchet Wheel

Pin Roller Wheel and Carrier Wheel

Motion Lever and Motion Rod

Let-Off

Warp Beam or Weaver Beam

Drag Lever

Back Rail

Hand Wheel

Drag Chain

Drag Handle

Warp Protector Motion

Buffer and Buffer Tongue

Swell Wood

Swell Spring and Finger/Lifter

Protector Rod and Warp Protector Tongue

Auto Cop Loader Motion

Magazine and Magazine Bracket

Cop Plunget

Side Weft Fork and Gate

Latch and Catch

Swing Frame and Swing Frame Bracket

Coupling Rods

Bell Crank Lever

Actuating Lever and Cam

Push Rod

Hammer

Working of the Machine

The machine pulley of weaving machine gets its drive either from overhead line shaft or

from individual motor through loose pulley and fast pulley system. Machine pulley is fitted

by a key with the crank shaft of loom. Bottom shaft gets the drive through crank pinion

and bottom shaft pinion. The ratio of number of teeth of these two pinions is 1:2. Bottom

shaft is meant for transferring the motion to the shedding as well as picking system for a

hessian loom. Beating motion is operated through crank and connecting arm along with

sley and reed. Thus, two revolutions of the crank shaft results in two cycles of shedding,

picking and beating. Therefore, it is very much essential for a weaver to have knowledge

of all the motions of looms and their setting/tuning in particular. The principal motions of

a loom are to be synchronized for each rotation of the crank shaft. The synchronization of

MoRD Page 88 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

the motion is achieved through setting of different motions of loom as per “timing

diagram” or “Crank cycle” concept, which is a part of loom tuning activity.

12.5.2. Method Study

12.5.2.1. Weaver

9 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Weaving Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the Cops from the Cop Winding Department in a barrow. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Visually Watch the process very carefully to find the occurrence of any defect. R/H 1/1

2. Pick up the cop from the cop package barrow with right hand and loads (puts into the slot adjacent R/H 1/1

to shuttle) into the shuttle.

3. Forms the knot (incase of occurrence of any End Breakage)

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the cloth beam on carts for being taken to the Finishing Department. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 9a. Weaver Weaving

Weaving Loom

Previous Operation: Beam ReceivingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Damping Descending

(a) Take the yarn from the feeding side with left hand

(b) Take the yarn from the receiving side with right hand

(c) Form the knot

4. Doff the cloth beam at the receiving side of the machine by disengaging it with both hands.

Weaving Loom

Weaver

MoRD Page 89 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

12.5.2.2. Weaving Helper

12.5.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Do’s

Enquire from the out-going weaver (of previous shift) about the problem, if any,

for smooth running of looms and if anything is wrong, inform Sardar/Supervisor

In case of warp breakage, join or mend only by small weavers knots with proper

drawing and denting through reeds, cambs and lease rods.

Release warp beam tension gradually as the Beam empties

Use cops in full extent, as far as practicable. Use left over yarns in cop in case of

second quality as far as possible

Take care during shuttle change and starting of the looms, ensuring proper

placement of last pick or weft at fell of the cloth to avoid missing weft and bar

Check time to time warp sheets, whether there is any free or missing ends, big

knots, loose/taut ends and cross ends etc.

Use correct quality of cops according to cop mark displayed on your loom or

instructed

Keep the looms clean with special attention to the reeds, shotting change pinion, ,

cambs, treadle bowls/shedding wyper, picking stud/picking cones etc. clean looms

9 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Weaving Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the Cops from the Cop Winding Department in a barrow. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Find the yarn end in the warp beam. R/H 1/1

2. Take each yarn end and pass it over the back rest, passing it through the lease rod assembly R/H 1/1

(over the first lease rod and under the second or vice-versa) with both hands.

3. Pass each of the yarns through the mail-eye of the healds/cambs.

4. Pass the yarn ends through the dents of the Guide Reed and following machine parts with both B/H 1/1

hands (only if the process parameters are changes)

5. Knotting the yarns of the newly fed warp beam with the yarns of the previous fed sheet already B/H 1/1

running in the machine.

R/H 1/1

L/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 9b. Weaving Helper Weaving

Weaving Loom

Previous Operation: Beam ReceivingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Damping Descending

(a) Take the yarn from the newly fed warp beam with right hand

(b) Take the yarn already in motion

(c) Form the knot

Weaving Loom

Weaving Helper

MoRD Page 90 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

during beam change to make it free from jute fluffs and dirt/dust, for better

running of the looms and to avoid fire hazards

Put oil in picking spindle with a piece of fabric presoaked in oil whenever it is dry

Inform Sardar/Supervisor in case of faulty cloth and shuttle damage

Keep wastage in wastage bag only

Don’ts

Do not run looms unnecessarily at low or high speed

Don`t pick back

Do not waste warp yarns during beam tieing and doffing by cutting unnecessary

extra length of yarns

Do not use cops for tieing missing ends

Do not accumulate cop bundles near looms

Do not use single chain for beam tension, instead of using two chains at the two

ends of the warp beam

Do not mix up different quality in a single fabric

Do not use cops from the cop bundle without any quality mark.

Do not waste excess length of yarn during loading of cop in the shuttle

Do not cut repeatedly the excess tail ends of cops hanging from eco-loader

magazine. Do not cut tail ends at mouth of cops.

Do not use shotting change pinion for tightening picking arm.

12.6. Production, Efficiency and Quality

The work performance of a weaver mainly depends on three factors:

Improvement in production efficiency

Improvement in quality of products

Reduction in waste generation

Fabric Faults : Cause and Remedial Measures

12.6.1. Improvement in production efficiency

Factors Control Measures

1. Warp Breaks

Warp Yarn Tension Warp yarn Quality Warp Yarn preparation Setting of the loom (for Shedding, Beating, Picking and take-up motions) Elimination of Big Knots

2. Weft Breaks

Condition of the Shuttle Quality and build of Cop Weft Yarn Quality Setting of Loom

3. Loom Stoppages

Improper Loom Tuning Warp Yarn Mending Beam Change and Shuttle Change Time

MoRD Page 91 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

12.6.2. Improvement in quality

Improvement in Quality also automatically improves the productivity. Factors which

influence the improvement in quality are:

Total quality consciousness and adherence to the specification and manufacturing

instructions.

Knowledge of fabric faults/defects and their remedial measures.

Perfect arrangement of the warp yarn eliminating crossed ends, taut ends, missing

ends and big knots etc.

Proper arrangement of the warp yarn on the lease rod, camb and reed

Proper maintenance of the warp tension and fabric tension

Maintenance of proper shed depth, tension of the warp yarns at the selvedges.

Controlling the take up motion and use of proper shotting change pinion

Checking the number of warp yarns and controlling the cloth width.

Use of correct warp count, weft count, correct reed porter and proper camb

fileying.

Use of small weavers knot in case of broken ends and ensuring its passage through

lease rod, camb and reed. Big and loose knots should not be allowed.

Avoid quality-mix up. Use of proper tags

Avoidance of reed marks and bars etc.

12.6.3. Reduction of wastage

Yarn waste is hard waste and is costly even if recycled. Saving of waste has therefore

direct influence in productivity and profit:

Knowledge of quality deterioration of yarn

Knowledge about reasons and area for generation of yarn wastage

Elimination of drawing of excess yarn before tieing-up. Running off warp yarn (in

beam) till exhaustion.

Elimination of malpractices like using the cop for joining or mending missing warp

ends

Use of cop to the full extent i.e. use of left over yarns in cops.

Proper handling of spools, cops and beams

Use of defective cop to the possible extent

Avoiding pick back

Use and maintenance of individual wastage bag and keeping it at proper place.

Use of correct warp and weft count.

Avoid unnecessary accumulation of cops.

MoRD Page 92 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

12.6.4. Fabric Faults: Cause and Remedial Measures

Defects Definition Cause Remedial Measures

Weft Bars Difference of appearance in a portion of a cloth from the normal weft spacing due to presence of more no. of picks/inch causing densed weft spacing

Mechanical Faults in the take-up motion, and eccentricity of take-up roller etc.

Removal of eccentricity of take-up roller or mechanical faults in take-up motion

Bias Portion of the fabrics where warp and weft are not at right angles to each other

Unequal tension on the warp threads across width of the fabric during weaving

Adjust warp yarn tension to keep equal tension of warp yarn across the width of the fabric.

Broken/Missing Ends

A narrow warp wise void in the fabrics caused by missing warp

Excess warp yarn tensions , excessive frictions by rough or worn out dents, too tight camb tieing

Adjust warp yarn tension, replace worn out or damaged reed or repair bent reed

Gaw Bunch of missing pick from a portion or in full width of the fabric

Cut shuttle eye, damaged shuttle tension rings or pins, improper piecing during cop making

Proper reason to be identified and rectified

Defective Selvedges

Non-Uniform (not straight) or irregular selvedges due to slack or tight selvedges

Improper tension of the selvedge yarn (low or high), tight picks, differential shrinkage between selvedge and body of the cloth, excessive weft yarn tensions, slack picking strap, hard and soft pick, damaged inside surface of shuttle

Tension of selvedge threads and weft yarn are to be properly adjusted and maintained

Shuttle smash Ruptured cloth characterized by many broken ends and picks, caused by entrapment of shuttle in the shed.

Shuttle entrapment due to weak picking force, defective picking motion, malfunctioning of warp protector motion, inadequate shed depth, worn out picker and picking spindle

Do proper loom tuning to adjust picking force

Snarl Short Length of weft yarn either entangled or twisted on itself and entrapped in fabric during interlacement of weft yarns with warp yarns

Soft Cop, less than standard cop diameter, worn out inside shuttle ring, bad or damaged shuttle and cover damaged bristles in shuttles

Use cop of proper diameter, proper twist of weft yarn, Use shuttle of good quality

MoRD Page 93 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Defects Definition Cause Remedial Measures

Warp/Weft Float

A part in fabric where warp/weft is not interlaced properly

Entanglement of broken warp ends, large knot in warp yarns, causing interference in up and down movement of warp yarns

To keep watch on broken warp thread and their proper harnessing, to rectify the defects

Scob A portion in fabric where warp and weft yarn fully escapes interlacement

Due to breakage of warp yarn between and heald the broken warp ends when entangled with surrounding warp yarns and/or mail-eyes of heald preventing required up and down movement of corresponding warp yarns forming insufficient depth of shed, for which it escapes the interlacement

Keep watch on broken warp yarns so that they do not entangle with surrounding warp ends or male-eyes. If it happens already, weft yarns in that portion of width are to be removed and fresh weaving is done

Reed Mark Running of few warp ends in pairs along the length of the fabric

Damaged or defective reed, incorrect adjustment of backrest and lease rods or the shedding

Damaged or defective reed should be replaced. Adjust backrest, lease rods, Late shedding should be avoided.

Weft Bar Bias Broken Ends

Gaw Defective Selvedges Shuttle Smash

MoRD Page 94 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

12.7. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Weaving Mazdoor Carries the empty shuttles from Shuttle issue Department to Weaving Department

2 Beam Carrier Carries the weaver`s Beam from Weaving Department to Finishing Department

Snarl Weft Float Scob

Reed Mark

Fig 12.c Fabric Faults

MoRD Page 95 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

12.8. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

12 Days 21 Days

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

12.1 Introduction

12.2 Objective

12.3 Specification and Quality of Jute Fabrics

12.4 Methodology

12.4.1 Primary Motions

12.4.1.1 Shedding

12.4.1.2 Picking

12.4.1.3 Beating

12.4.2 Secondary Motions

12.4.2.1 Let-Off

12.4.2.2 Take-Up

12.4.3 Auxiliary Motions

12.4.3.1 Warp Protector Motion (fast reed type)

12.4.3.2 Weft Fork

12.4.3.3 Oscillating or Vibrating Backrest

12.4.3.4 Automatic cop change arrangement or

Automatic Cop Loader Motion (Ecco-Loader)

12.5 Shuttle Looms

12.5.1 Machine Details

12.5.2 Method Study

12.5.2.1 Weaver

12.5.2.2 Weaving Helper

12.5.3

12.6 Production, Efficiency and Quality

12.6.1 Improvement in production efficiency

12.6.2 Improvements in quality

12.6.3 Reduction of wastage

12.6.4 Fabric Faults: Cause and Remedial Measures

12.7 Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

12.1 Introduction

12.2 Objective

12.3 Specification and Quality of Jute Fabrics

12.4 Methodology

12.4.1 Primary Motions

12.4.1.1 Shedding

12.4.1.2 Picking

12.4.1.3 Beating

12.4.2 Secondary Motions

12.4.2.1 Let-Off

12.4.2.2 Take-Up

12.4.3 Auxiliary Motions

12.4.3.1 Warp Protector Motion (fast reed type)

12.4.3.2 Weft Fork

12.4.3.3 Oscillating or Vibrating Backrest

12.4.3.4 Automatic cop change arrangement or

Automatic Cop Loader Motion (Ecco-Loader)

12.5 Shuttle Looms

12.5.1 Machine Details

12.5.2 Method Study

12.5.2.1 Weaver

12.5.2.2 Weaving Helper

12.5.3

12.6 Production, Efficiency and Quality

12.6.1 Improvement in production efficiency

12.6.2 Improvement in quality

12.6.3 Reduction of wastage

12.6.4 Fabric Faults: Cause and Remedial Measures

12.7

Do`s and Don`ts

Mazdoor Activities

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Do`s and Don`ts

MODULE 9 : WEAVING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

MoRD Page 96 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13. MODULE 10: FINISHING OF JUTE CLOTH

13.1. Introduction

Jute fabric after weaving needs to go through some additional processes to get the fabric

shaped and to make the fabric ready for the end use and sales. All the process that the

Jute fabric undergoes after the process of weaving is collectively termed as “Finishing”. As

Jute bags of Hessian and Sacking type are mostly cheaper and are of coarser variety, they

do not undergo any chemical finishing. Although there are some specific end uses where

Jute fabric undergoes chemical process of dyeing and finishing but mostly jute fabric end

uses are colourless bags which eliminates the process of chemical finishing.

Three important factors determine the mechanical finishing process to be followed in the

jute industry. They are:

The specification and desired quality of the products

The market price and manufacturing cost of the product

The type of fabrics or bags and their end-use requirements

Generally the jute fabrics after the process of weaving are stiff, harsh and hairy. Also, the

other parameters like extensibility, drape, abrasion resistance, crease resistance are poor.

Hence proper finishing processes are essential to remove the weaving faults and to impart

suitable handle to the end product.

Jute Cloth Production

(Fine Side)

Damping

Calendaring and Inspection

Cloth Repairing

Lapping and Measurement

Arranging

Baling

Storing

Dispatching

Jute Cloth Production

(Coarse Side)

Damping

Calendaring and Inspection

Cloth Repairing

Lapping

Arranging

Packing

Storing

Dispatching

Jute Bag Production

(Fine and Coarser Side)

Damping

Calendaring and Inspection

Repairing

Cutting

Sewing

Bundling

Packing

Storing

MoRD Page 97 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.2. Objective

The main objectives of the process of Finishing can be summarized as:

To remove faults or mend defects in the fabric

To improve the cover and appearance of the fabric

To remove the crease or fold in the fabric

To enhance the handle / texture and aesthetic value of the fabric

To maintain the desired level of moisture in the end product

To make the fabric surface smoother and brighter

To render the cloth material eligibility for ultimate end uses

13.3. Damping Machine

13.3.1. Objective

To unwind the ex-loom cloth roll for the subsequent finishing operation

To spray/add desired level of moisture / water uniformly to the ex-loom cloth prior

to the calendaring, which facilitates better calendaring for better fabric

appearance

13.3.2. Machine Details

13.3.2.1. Nozzle Type Damping Machine

Nozzle-type Damping machine is the most commonly

used in Jute Mills. Water is sprayed on the opened up

fabric by means of number of nozzles from the top of

the machine. It contains usually 7-10 nozzles for the

water spray in the form of finer water droplet. The

flow rate of water spray is regulated by a controlling

valve provided in the machine.

These types of rollers consist of pulling rollers. Ex-

Loom cloth roll for the fabric is usually kept in a semi-circular pit on the ground made for

this specific purpose. Sometimes, Hessian cloth rolls particularly of light construction can

be fed to the Damping machine by keeping it on pipes or tubes as roll center mounted on

ball bearings prefixed at both sides on an iron stand.

During the pulling, it helps to unwind the cloth roll in uniform speed with less friction and

damage of the cloth. At the delivery side of the machine, the damped fabric is delivered

by a positively driven drawing roller and pressing roller provided for this purpose in the

machine.

Fig 13.a Nozzle Type Damping Machine

MoRD Page 98 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.3.3. Method Study

13.3.3.1. Feeder- Damping

13.3.3.2. Receiver- Damping

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the woven cloth Roll from the Weaving Department to the Finishing Department. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Take the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Throw the fabric across the machine from the feeding side to the receiving side aiming B/H 1/1

the nip of the rotating rollers.

3. Adjust the fabric finally. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 10a. Feeder- Damping Damping

Damping Machine

Previous Operation: WeavingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Damping Receiving

Damping Machine

Damping Feeder

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Takes (Receives) the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Watch the fabric very carefully to check the occurrence of any defect. B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the Jute Cloth to the Calendaring Section in a barrow. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 10b. Receiver- Damping Damping

Damping Machine

Previous Operation: Damping FeedingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Calendaring

Damping Machine

Receiver

MoRD Page 99 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.3.4. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Before fresh starting of the machine, all rollers, gears, belts, water spraying system

including water controlling valve, nozzles etc. are to be properly checked for

trouble free working.

Ensure that there is sufficient cloth rolls stacked for feeding to the damping

machines. The machine should never be idle.

The feed should be uniform and flawless.

Take care so that the ex-loom woven cloth cuts are pre arranged near the damping

machine as per quality and specifications separately.

Water flow control system should be set carefully for correct amount of addition

of water uniformly to the cloth during running time.

After damping, the amount of applied moisture and its uniformity should be

checked from time to time and variations should be controlled.

Must be aware of the quality of the fabric fed. Quality mix-up should be avoided.

Feeding should be in proper alignment.

Close the water controlling valve when the machine is idle / stopped.

Don`ts

Do not waste water unnecessarily i.e. Do not run the machine without material.

Do not touch spray control valve without permission.

Do not mix-up different qualities of fabric.

Do not feed the cloth non-uniformly.

13.4. Calendaring Machine

13.4.1. Objective

To press the grey (ex-loom) cloth with application of moisture with or without heat

for removal of creases/folds and to improve the fabric cover by flattening of the

warp and weft yarns under pressure.

To produce a smooth, glossy/lustreous appearance of the surface of the cloth by

the effect of pressure, friction as well as temperature (optional)

13.4.2. Machine Details

The Calendaring Machine is very important machine in

the mechanical finishing of jute fabrics. The most

commonly used calendar machines in jute mills is five

bowls Calendaring Machine. The damped fabric passes

through the machine as shown in the figure. The

middle or center bowl is a hollow steam cylinder of

about 14 inch diameter and is known as steam

cylinder. Steam is injected inside this hollow bowl to

heat it to the required temperature as and when

needed. The temperature on the surface of this roller Fig 13.b Calendaring Machine

MoRD Page 100 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

is controlled by controlling the amount of steam flow and steam pressure. The two bowls

just at the top or below of this bowls are the paper bowls and the next top and bottom

bowls are iron bowls. At the feed end, there are five tension rails which are mainly

present for adjusting the tension of the feed fabric.

Different types of calendar finish can be obtained by adjusting the feed tension of the

cloth through various rails at the feed. Controlling the overfeed or underfeed of the cloth

subjected to the different tension by rails and different pressure by different wraps and

nips combined with or without heat by steam cylinder in the calendaring machine, the

length of the fabric can be increased at the compensation of widthwise shrinkage of the

fabric. If the tension along the width of the two selvedge ends of the fabric is not equal

and uniform, there may be a “Bias” developed in the fabric

In industry, the normal steam pressure in the calendaring machine is kept around 25

lbs/sq, inch for hessian and 30 lbs/sq. inch for sacking fabrics.

13.4.3. Method Study

13.4.3.1. Feeder- Calendaring

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the damped jute cloth from damping section to the calendaring section. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Takes the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Passes the fabric through nip of the first pair of bottom bowls (paper bowl and iron bowl) and B/H 1/1

again bring back the fabric to the feeding side through the nip of the 2nd pair of bowls (paper

bowl and center bowl)

3. Passes the fabric through nip of the 3rd pair of bowls from bottom (steam bowl and paper bowl) B/H 1/1

and again bring back the fabric to the feeding side through the nip of the 4th pair of bowls

(paper bowl and iron bowl)

4. Take the cloth above the iron bowl and pass it to the receiving side of the Calendaring Machine. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:10c. Feeder-

CalendaringCalendaring

Calendaring Machine

Previous Operation: Damping ReceivingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Calendaring Receiving

Calendaring Machine

Feeder

MoRD Page 101 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.4.3.2. Receiver- Calendaring

13.4.4. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Semi-folded jute fabrics after proper damping should be properly placed before

feed end of the machine ensuring perfect square –on feed and it must be properly

repaired / mended whenever required. End to end joining by sewing between cuts

must be ensured in advance.

Steam pressure should be properly adjusted by the stop valve as per requirement.

Pressure of different bowls/cylinders and additional dead weight should be

adjusted according to the type of fabric and type of calendar finish required.

At the feed end, number of rails to be engaged should be carefully fixed as per the

extent of tension required and this should be maintained properly.

Proper square-on and uniform feeding of the fabric must be ensured avoiding

calendaring faults

Initially follow the slow running for gradual starting of the machine when the cloth

is being entered in the machine. The passage of fabric through correct number of

nips is ensured.

Satisfactory reversal at any desired interval must be ensured and quick reversal in

case of emergency should be confirmed.

Length and width of the calendared fabrics must be thoroughly checked.

No creases of the cloth are should be allowed before and after calendaring.

Calendared fabric cuts are to be kept separately as per quality of the fabric.

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Takes (Receives) the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Watch the fabric very carefully to check the occurrence of any defect.

3. Rectify the defects with both hands B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the Jute Cloth to the Lapping Section in a barrow. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:10d. Receiver-

CalendaringCalendaring

Calendaring Machine

Previous Operation: Calendaring FeedingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Lapping Feeding

Calendaring Machine

Receiver

MoRD Page 102 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Mending should be done when required.

When two or three fabrics are run side by side simultaneously on a calendar

machine, the feeder has to ensure that the widthwise position of the fabrics over

the bowl is changed from time to time, by changing the position of the collar,

which are to be shifted on the rail so that fabrics do not pass over the same place

for a long period.

While starting the machine after a long stop, the feeder should not allow bowl

pressure to act until steam cylinder is heated.

No foreign matters are to be allowed to enter the fabric.

Don`ts

Do not allow any fabric gaw/net/other major defects to be fed in calendar machine

without its repair.

Do not allow different bowls to be in contact with each other when the machine is

stopped. There should be at least ¼ inch gap between steam cylinder and top

paper bowl.

Do not run the machine without material.

Do not allow any drip of water or oil on any of the calendar bowls. It would create

stain on the cloth.

Do not allow iron bowls or paper bowl to get wetted or damped by anyway.

Do not run the machine before the steam cylinder reaches desired temperature.

Do not change rail tension or number of nips etc. without getting confirmed.

Do not allow any defective fabric to enter the calendaring machine.

13.5. Lapping Machine

13.5.1. Objective

To fold the cloth continuously upon itself in a pre-selected/required lap length and

width for ease of handling, transportation and packing.

To fold the cloth in a market acceptable form and to make ultimately dispatchable/

transportable pack of bale of specified dimension, as per customers or market

requirement.

13.5.2. Machine Details

The important parts of a lapping machine are as

follows:

An oscillating knife and bracket on the

delivery table of the machine to facilitate

lapping of the cloth aided with grip or bars

present to secure/hold the lapped cloth to

allow next folding.

Tensioning bars with sliding collars to adjust

tension of the feed cloth

A convex wooden table at the receiving end where the cloth is received.

Fig 13.c Lapping Machine

MoRD Page 103 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

An inclined table at the receiving end where the folded or lapped cloth is pulled

from the convex wooden table

Another optional feature of this machine is manual cutting arrangement of cloth

into the bag length on the lapping table.

In the lapping machine, the lap length for folding or for cutting is to be adjusted in the

machine very accurately. Lapping machines of different width are available. Normally

smaller width lapping machine have 60 inch width and longer width have 90 inch width.

Cloths shall be folded in full width with an average fold/lap length of 80 inch.

For 60 inch width lapping machine, the frequency of lapping or folding by oscillating knife

is 36-37 stroke/min. and the same for the 90 inch width lapping machine is 30-32

strokes.min.

13.5.3. Method Study

13.5.3.1. Feeder- Lapping

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the woven cloth Roll from the Calendaring section to the Lapping section. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Take the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Throw the fabric across the machine from the feeding side to the receiving side aiming the B/H 1/1

oscillating bracket that facilitates the lapping.

3. Adjust the fabric finally. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 10e. Feeder- Lapping Lapping

Lapping Machine

Previous Operation: Calendaring ReceivingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Lapping Receiving

Lapping Machine

Lapping Feeder

MoRD Page 104 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.5.3.2. Receiver- Lapping

13.5.4. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Proper feeding of the fabric should be ensured by the operator. Operator has to

ensure proper tensioning and placing of collars on tension bars at proper place,

during feeding of the fabric.

Operator should avoid any defective fabric to be fed for lapping.

Short and medium cuts of the fabric should be identified and to be kept separately

for lapping/folding those separately or as per instruction from Sardar.

Lapped fabric must be kept separately with respect to quality with quality marks.

Operator must paste the chit for total measured length or put measuring stamp

inside each cut of lapped fabric.

Lap length should be properly adjusted. It must be checked from time to time after

lapping by S.Q.C personnel.

Don`ts

Do not allow high tension or slackness in the fabric during lapping (with or without

cutting as required)

Do not run the machine empty

Do not allow quality mix-up.

Do not allow defective cloth to be fed.

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Hand Used Freq

Sequence of Operations

1. Takes (Receives) the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Watch the fabric very carefully to check the occurrence of any defect.

3. Rectify the defects with both hands B/H 1/1

4. Control and Ensurence so that the lapping takes place correctly. B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the Jute Cloth to the Cutting Section in a barrow. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 10f. Receiver- Lapping Lapping

Lapping Machine

Previous Operation: Lapping FeedingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Cutting

Lapping Machine

Receiver

MoRD Page 105 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.6. Cutting Machine

13.6.1. Objective

To cut the calendared jute cloth into pieces in required sizes to manufacture jute

bags or sheets

13.6.2. Machine Details

To cut a pre-fixed length of a jute cloth, the following types of cutting machines are used:

Rotary Cutting Machine: Jute cloth is continuously cut into a pre-fixed length by

means of a rotary blade.

Gillotin Cutting Machine: In this cutting machine, the blade moves forward and

backward parallel to the floor with the help of a cam and a connecting arm to cut a

definite length of the fabric, as per adjustment made for any specific length of

cutting required.

Scimitar Cut and Folding Machine: This type of cutting machine cuts the jute fabric

in a definite length and folds it after cutting. This is not commonly used in jute

mills because of maintenance difficulty for its complex mechanism.

Lap and Cutting Machine: Generally for light quality fabrics and more than 120

inch cut length, these type of cutting machines are used. Here the fabric is lap

folded by lapping machine and then cut by hand knife. This type is not popular in

Jute Mills.

Each Cutting machine has a cutting constant value. The cutting size of a Jute cloth shall be

controlled with a change pinion called “Cutting Change Pinion”. This cutting shall take

place with the to and fro or rotary movement of the cutting blade. The blade gets

movement from a properly designed cal through connecting arms. The use of cutting

change pinion fitted/required for a particular quality fabric is to commensurate with

cutting constant value of the cutting machine, shall be displayed on a board of the cutting

machine.

MoRD Page 106 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.6.3. Method Study

13.6.3.1. Cutting Machine Operator

13.6.4. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Before machine starting, the start and stop switch, cut blade setting, blade

condition and drive of the blade must be checked.

Check the cam, connecting arm and gear meshing. There should not be any

damage or worn out condition in the cam; the connecting arm should not be loose

and gear should be meshed properly.

The fabric is to be fed straight and there should not be any bias feeding at all to

avoid bias cutting.

Segregation of defective cuts/Pieces must be ensured. In case of defective cutting,

cutting blade sharpness is to be checked.

Length of the cutting is to be ensured.

Mixing of cut pieces for different quality jute bags are to be avoided.

Don`ts

Do not allow any short length of cutting.

10 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Finishing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the woven cloth Roll from the Calendaring section to the Lapping section. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Take the jute cloth with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Throw the fabric across the machine from the feeding side to the receiving side aiming the B/H 1/1

Feed Roller.

3. Adjust the fabric finally. B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

6. Segregate/Rectify any defect on the cloth B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the cloth to the Sewing Department in the barrow. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 10g. Cutting Operator Cutting

Cutting Machine

Operator

Previous Operation: Lapping ReceivingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: Sack-Sewing Descending

4. Takes (Receives) the jute cloth with both hands.

5. Watch the fabric very carefully to check the occurrence of any defect.

Cutting Machine

Cutting Machine Operator

MoRD Page 107 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Do not allow any bias cutting and hence don`t feed the fabric bias.

Do not allow the high tension or sagging of the fabric during feed for cutting the

cloth.

Do not mix-up the quality of the cut-pieces with other quality.

Do not feed defective cloth.

13.7. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Cloth Carrier Carries the Jute cloth/rolls from one process to another in Finishing department

MoRD Page 108 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

13.8. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

9 Days 9 Days

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

13.1 Introduction

13.2 Objective

13.3 Damping Machine

13.3.1 Objective

13.3.2 Machine Details

13.3.2.1 Nozzle Type Damping Machine

13.3.3 Method Study

13.3.3.1 Feeder- Damping

13.3.3.2 Receiver- Damping

13.3.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.4 Calendaring Machine

13.4.1 Objective

13.4.2 Machine Details

13.4.3 Method Study

13.4.3.1 Feeder- Calendaring

13.4.3.2 Receiver- Calendaring

13.4.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.5 Lapping Machine

13.5.1 Objective

13.5.2 Machine Details

13.5.3 Method Study

13.5.3.1 Feeder- Lapping

13.5.3.2 Receiver- Lapping

13.5.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.6 Cutting Machine

13.6.1 Objective

13.6.2 Machine Details

13.6.3 Method Study

13.6.3.1 Cutting Machine Operator

13.6.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.7 Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

13.1 Introduction

13.2 Objective

13.3 Damping Machine

13.3.1 Objective

13.3.2 Machine Details

13.3.2.1 Nozzle Type Damping Machine

13.3.3 Method Study

13.3.3.1 Feeder- Damping

13.3.3.2 Receiver- Damping

13.3.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.4 Calendaring Machine

13.4.1 Objective

13.4.2 Machine Details

13.4.3 Method Study

13.4.3.1 Feeder- Calendaring

13.4.3.2 Receiver- Calendaring

13.4.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.5 Lapping Machine

13.5.1 Objective

13.5.2 Machine Details

13.5.3 Method Study

13.5.3.1 Feeder- Lapping

13.5.3.2 Receiver- Lapping

13.5.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.6 Cutting Machine

13.6.1 Objective

13.6.2 Machine Details

13.6.3 Method Study

13.6.3.1 Cutting Machine Operator

13.6.4 Do's and Don'ts

13.7

MODULE 10 : FINISHING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

Mazdoor Activities

MoRD Page 109 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

14. MODULE 11: SACK SEWING OF JUTE CLOTH

14.1. Introduction

The process of sack sewing converts the two dimensional structure of the jute cloth to the

three dimensional structure of Jute bag. The importance of the process lies in the fact that

it would give the final look to the end use. Anything wrong in this process would nullify

the results of all the previous processes.

14.2. Objective

To produce a bag of definite shape and size by sewing two open ends of cut fabric

pieces.

14.3. Sack Sewing Machine

14.3.1. Types of Machines

In order to fabricate different types of bags, different types of sewing methods arte to be

used to close two ends of cut fabric pieces as per sale advice note or standard bag

specifications specifying type of sewing applicable.

There are mainly three major types of sewing:

Hemming

Herackle

Safety

In Jute Mills, first two types of sewing methods are most popular. Safety sewing is used

when it is specified specially by the customers/buyers for achieving higher seam

performance. Besides these, two other methods are also used:

Hemmed Selvedge Bag Sewing

Special sewing for Box type Bags

In this section, Hemming, Herackle and Safety stitching would be covered as they are the

common types of sewing in Jute Industry.

Hemming: The raw edges at the mouth of the Jute bag is turned into three fold

known as hemming fold. The three times of the thickness of the folded fabric thus

formed by such folding is sewn (hemmed) together in a sewing machine called

hemming sewing machine by applying chain stitch with two other strands of single

yarn of count 8-9 lbs/spindle.

Herackle: The Herackle sewing is done for making bags in Herackle Sewing

Machine. The sewing is done through two times or four times of the thickness of

the folded fabric when both the edges to be sewn are selvedges. In case of raw

edges, the folding or turning shall be done to a depth of around 3.5 cms. During

sewing, the stitching shall be under even tension throughout so that all the loose

ends are secured and the stitches do not open up. The number of stitches per

decimeter shall be 9 to 11 for Herackle Sewing using two or three strands of 3 ply

jute twine yarn of count 9 lbs/spy or 10.5 lbs/spindle.

MoRD Page 110 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Safety Stitching: An extra line of chain stitch (at the inner edge of a herackle type

sewing) may be provided Hemming Sewing Machine which is termed as Sfety

Sewing. In safety stitch, normally two strands of two ply jute twine of count 9

lbs/spindle is used. The number of stitches per decimeter is also 9-11. For A-twill

bag, this type of safety sewing is used. Sometimes, lock-stitch may also be used for

safety stitch. Safety stitch is used for achieving higher seam performance as safety,

when the main stitch even fails.

14.3.2. Types of Stitch

Four types of stitches are commonly used in jute bags. These are given below with a brief

description:

Chain Stitch: This is a double loop

continuous stitch as shown in the

figure, using a looper thread and a

separate needle thread. Cotton

twines were used earlier for such

double looped stitch. Now-a-days, chain stitches are given in by sewing machine

with jute twines. This stitching is used for Hemming type sewing of Jute bags, to

sew the raw edges of the mouth of the jute bag. For the stitch, sewing thread is

supplied from two spools / cone and one eyed needle is used. In this sewing, a

chain is formed in one side of the bag, which is elastic in nature. It has a stitch

density of 9 to 11 stitches/decimeter.

Lock Stitch: In Lock Stitch, there is

inter-crossing between the needle

thread and locking thread and thus it

is very strong in nature, but not so

elastic unlike chain stitch. Here, two

types of stitching threads are

supplied from two bobbins, one is bigger and the other is smaller. In case of

Tarpaulin and Twill bags, it has a stitch density of 9-11 stitches/decimeter.

Sometimes, lock stitch is also used as safety stitch.

Overhead Stitch: In jute mills, this

type of stitch was generally used

earlier for heavy jute bags. But

overhead stitching machine has low

productivity i.e. only 500 stitches per

minute and hence day by day mills are discarding this type of sewing machine. The

needle of the machine is like a spiral hook. After this type sewing the edge is also

folded round to make with the stitch round hook.

Herackle Stitch: The machine used for

Herackle Stitch is known as Herackle

Sewing Machine. It is more complex

than overhead sewing machine. Here,

MoRD Page 111 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

the sewing depends on looping mechanism. In this machine, two sewing twine

thread are supplied from two bobbins / spools / cone. The production rate of this

machine is very high and is about 1500 stitches per minute. Jute twines are used as

sewing thread and stitch density is usually 9-11 stitches per decimeter.

14.3.3. Types of Seam

Types of seams with different nature of folds/joints required for a particular type of jute

bag depends upon the type of bag and its uses. Different types of folds/joints during

preparation of different seams are discussed below:

Plain Seam: Two edges of the fabric is

taken together and sewn simply through

two layers of the fabric and then the bag

is turned inside out so that the sewing

becomes invisible. This type of seam joining is called Plain Seam.

‘M’ Seam: During sewing of the bag, the

two edges of the fabric is folded inside at

a definite length (about 1.5 inch in each

side) in a M-fashion. In this case, the

stitch is done through four layers of

folded fabric. Here sides of the bag is kept

as it is and no turn over is required. This type of seam joining is called M seam.

Counter Laid Seam: In this case, both the

edges of the fabric is first folded to

corresponding outside and then single or

double stitched simply over four layers of

the fabric. Then the bag is turned inside

out to make the stitch invisible. This type

of seam joining is called counter laid seam.

Fold-Over Seam: The two edges of the

fabric outside in the same direction and

upward at a time and then stitched over

four layers of folded fabrics. This type is

known as Fold-Over Seam.

Over Edge Seam on Selvedges (with a

safety stitch): In this case, an overhead

stitch is done around the two open

selvedges of the fabric without folding,

with an additional safety stitch. This type

of stitches can be done only by Overhead

or Herackle Sewing Machine. For this generally 3 ply 10 lbs/spy jute twine is used

as sewing thread. Stitches are so designed that it pass through two layers of the

fabric, as well as it rounds up the two edges. The bag/joined fabric is used without

inverting the side. A safety stitch (either chain stitch or lock stitch) at the inner side

MoRD Page 112 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

of the original stitch improves the seam performance. This type of seam is known

as over edge seam.

Over Edge Seam on Raw Edges (with a

safety stitch): In this case, two raw

edges of the fabric are folded inside

the fabrics in a ‘M’ fashion and the

Overhead stitch given passes through

the four layers of the fabric as well as

it rounds up folded edges. Apart from this, a safety lock-stitch is also given in the

inner side of this overhead stitch. The bag is used without inverting the sides. This

type is known as “Over Edge Seam” on Raw Edges.

Over Edge Fold Over Seam: In this

seam, the two ends of the fabric is

folded outside in the same direction

and upward at a time and Overhead

stitch is given, passing through four layers of the fabric as well as rounding up

folded edges. Sometimes, a safety stitch is also given at the inner side of this stitch.

Splay Seam: During folding before

joining one end of the fabric is kept

longer than the other end and a lock

stitch is given passing through two

layers of fabric. Then the extended end of the fabric is further folded upward and

another lock stitch is given between two layers of fabric. These stitches are

generally given to jute bags used for carrying food grains, to avoid seepage of food

grains through stitch gaps. This type of seam is called “Splay Seam”.

Hemming Seam: In case of Hemming

the selvedge side of the fabric end is

folded inside and simple chain stitch

is passed through two layers of

fabric. Again for Hemming in case of

raw edge of the fabric ends, the raw edge is folded twice and a simple chain stitch

is passed through three layers of the fabrics. Here, the stitch density is usually 2.5

stitches per inch.

MoRD Page 113 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

14.3.4. Sewing Defects of Jute Bags: Causes and Remedial Measures

S. No.

Sewing Defects Types and Its Description

Reasons of Defects Rectification of

Remedial Measures

1 Defects in Hemming Seam

Bias Cutting and insufficient folding of fabric, creating defective sewing

For Bias cutting of the cutting machine or if the fabric is fed bias before cutting

Cutting machine should be fault free, cam and connecting arm driving blade should not worn out or loose and the cutting blade should be well set

2 Insufficient covering or Long Stitch gap in sewing

Depth of the stitching is inadequate creating long stitch gap or insufficient covering

For misalignment of guide plate and needle of sewing machine due to operator’s negligence

Needle should be set properly and Stitch density should be set properly

3 Irregular Stitching or Small Stitch Gap

Stitch density if not proper and it varies from place to place. It may leave some places without stitch, creating small stitch gap

Due to improper tension of pressure plate or the operator’s hand pressure being non-uniform during sewing. Defective chain and worn out pressure plate may also cause this defect

Check important machine parts of sewing machine particularly the chain and pressure plate before operation. Proper training of the sewing operator is essential

4 Unstitched Bag Corner i.e. Stitch Gap at the corner of the bag

A hole is formed at the corner of the bag due to insufficiently incomplete stitching creating a stitch gap at the corner of the bag

Due to early exhaustion of sewing twine or breakage of sewing twine or breakage of sewing twine (due to worn out or defective needle) during sewing the corners of the bag

Sewing Operator should keep constant watch and take care in supplying sewing twine continuously and the operator should be trained properly. Defective needle must be replaced to avoid breakage of sewing twine

5 Gap between two layers of two fold folds of bags

Stitches do no pass through two layers of the bag properly

Due to breakages of sewing twine during sewing for negligence of the sewing operator or mechanic

Sewing Operator should keep strict watch on twine breakage. The sewing operator and mechanic requires proper training

MoRD Page 114 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

14.3.5. Method Study

14.3.5.1. Hemming Operator

11 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Sack-Sewing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Open the bundle and put the pieces on the left hand side table. B/H 1/10

Sequence of Operations

1. Reach for the piece from the table L/H 1/1

2. Fold the pc at the bottom to the required margin and place it under the needle B/H 1/1

3. Sew in a straight line up till the end in one burst maintaining the correct margin B/H 1/1

4. Repeat the process for the other pieces B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. After completing all the pieces, take out all the pcs from the disposal box and tie the bundle. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Ascending

Following Operation: Herackle Operation Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:11a. Hemming

OperatorSack-Sewing

Hemming Machine

operator

5. Dispose the piece in the disposal box placed ahead of the machine

Previous Operation: CuttingSequence of Output

Machine

Pick-upTable

Dispose

MoRD Page 115 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

14.3.5.2. Herackle Operator

11 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Sack-Sewing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Open the bundle and put the pieces on the left hand side table. B/H 1/10

Sequence of Operations

1. Reach for the piece from the table L/H 1/1

2. Align the ends & place it under the needle B/H 1/1

3. Sew from the start end till hemming side end in oneburst B/H 1/1

4. Repeat the process for the other side B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. After completing all the pieces, take out all the pcs from the disposal box and tie the bundle. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Ascending

Following Operation: Branding Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:11b. Herackle

OperatorSack-Sewing

Herackle Machine

5. Dispose the piece in the disposal box placed ahead of the machine

operator

Previous Operation: Hemming OperationSequence of Output

Machine

Pick-upTable

Dispose

MoRD Page 116 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

14.3.5.3. Branding Operator

11 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Sack-Sewing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the Bag from the Sewing section to the Branding section. B/H 1/10

Sequence of Operations

1. Take the jute bag with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Place the print screen on the bag with both the hands. B/H 1/1

3. Adjust the bag finally with both the hands so that the print takes place properly. B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

6. Segregate/Rectify any defect on the cloth. B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the cloth to the Packing Department in the barrow. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Ascending

Following Operation: Bundling Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:11c. Branding

OperatorSack-Sewing

NA

5. Watch the bag very carefully to check the occurrence of any printing defect.

Previous Operation: Herackle OperationSequence of Output

4. Remove the print screen with both hands.

Print Screen Machine

Branding Operator

Jute Bag Barrow

MoRD Page 117 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

14.3.5.4. Bundler

14.3.6. Do’s and Don’ts

Do`s

Ensure continuous supply of sewing twine and use proper quality of sewing twine.

Anything wrong for sewing twine should be immediately be reported to

supervisor/sardars.

Check alignment between needle and looper, guide plate and pressure plate etc.

before starting of the machine.

Lubricate the sewing machine as per schedule.

Keep watch on the breakage of sewing twine. In case of frequent breakages of

sewing twine, check the condition of needle, guide plate, pressure plate and

quality of sewing yarn to rectify.

Check occasionally the stitch depth, stitch gap and number of stitches per

decimeter. No stitch gap or non uniform stitch density to be allowed.

Check and adjust correct pressure of the pressure plate.

Check and adjust proper tension of the sewing twine with the help of tensioning

devices.

Check the folding along with seam procedure for sewing.

Avoid excess sewing twine at the corner of the bag which causes wastage.

11 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Sack-Sewing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Taking the Bag from the Branding section to the Bundling section. B/H 1/10

Sequence of Operations

1. Take the branded jute bag with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Place the first jute bag on the bundling clothwith both hands. B/H 1/1

3. Place the second bag on the previously placed bag and continue this process. B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

both hands and bundle is being formed.

B/H 1/1

Handling after Operation

1. Disposal of the Jute bag bundle to the Packing Department in the barrow. B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

Ascending

Following Operation: Packing Descending

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.: 11d. Bundler Sack-Sewing

NA

5. Bundle is formed and knot is applied to keep the jute bags in proper place.

Previous Operation: BrandingSequence of Output

4. When the number of bags stacked reaches the desired state, the bundling cloth is taken with

Area for Bundling

Bundling Operator

Stacking of Jute Bag Bundles

MoRD Page 118 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Don`ts

Do not allow stitch gap or non uniform stitch density.

Do not use worn out needle or pressure plate

Do not use improper quality of sewing twine.

Do not run sewing machine with loose needle, looper plate or misaligned needle

and looper.

Do not waste sewing twine.

Do not run sewing machine without material.

14.4. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Sewing Mazdoor Carries the Stitched jute bag from Stitching section to Branding and Bundling section

14.5. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

9 Days 18 Days

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

14.1 Introduction

14.2 Objective

14.3 Sack Sewing Machine

14.3.1 Types of Machines

14.3.2 Types of Stitch

14.3.3 Types of Seam

14.3.4 Sewing Defects of Jute Bags: Causes and Remedial

Measures

14.3.5 Method Study

14.3.5.1 Hemming Operator

14.3.5.2 Herackle Operator

14.3.5.3 Branding Operator

14.3.5.4 Bundler

14.3.6 Do's and Don'ts

14.4 Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

14.1 Introduction

14.2 Objective

14.3 Sack Sewing Machine

14.3.1 Types of Machines

14.3.2 Types of Stitch

14.3.3 Types of Seam

14.3.4 Sewing Defects of Jute Bags: Causes and Remedial

Measures

14.3.5 Method Study

14.3.5.1 Hemming Operator

14.3.5.2 Herackle Operator

14.3.5.3 Branding Operator

14.3.5.4 Bundler

14.3.6 Do's and Don'ts

14.4 Types of Mazdoor

MODULE 11 : SACK-SEWING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

MoRD Page 119 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

15. MODULE 12: PACKING OF JUTE BAG

15.1. Introduction

The last stage of the processing of Jute products is its packaging

in an easy storing, transportable and market acceptable form

for final dispatch. This is done by a particular machine which is

called Baling Press. Any kind of pack should have a firm body

with a definite dimension an outer cover to protect the

materials (jute products in this case) inside. Hence, a bale of

Jute bags/fabrics is compressed by a hydraulic press to a

definite dimension and is wrapped by a suitable pack sheet to

give the package (or bale) a firm body binded by steel baling

hoops.

15.2. Objective

To prepare a suitable firm-body package of safe and definite dimension with

appropriate outer cover containing Jute Bags/Fabrics as final products for ease of,

storing, dispatch and transport conforming customers` requirements of BIS

specifications

Fig 15.a Packing of Jute Bag

MoRD Page 120 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

15.3. Methodology

15.4. Baling Press Machine

15.4.1. Machine Details

The Baling Press Machine may be divided into two parts:

Hydraulic Pump or Plunger Pump Part i.e. the source

of compressive pressure

Hydraulic Press (Baling Press) Part i.e. where the

actual bale making is done

All the plungers are actuated by a common crankshaft at

the top driven by a heavy motor or line-shaft through a pair

of high ratio (for speed reduction) herringbone gears.

Plunger Pump Part and hydraulic press part are connected

through seamless steel pipes for pressure transmission and

are provided with suitable valves for control of pressure.

Shifting and arrangement of the quare secton bars on the heavy platform floor of the machine to keep equal gaps at those positions where baling hoops are to be places

Cross-wise spreading of the pieces of pack sheets on the platform

Arrangement of lapped fabric cuts/bundles of bag on the pack sheets one abobe the other

Lowering of the platform below the floor velel and addition of few more cuts/bundles until the space is filled up with bags

Upward movement of the platform by opening the pressure valves

Pressing of the material (required number of bags) hard against the cast iron roof

Lowering of the platform and addition of few more cuts/bundles to the space formed after

Placing the pack shet on the top

Placing the required number of baling hoops of correct length

Restart of the pressing of thebale till the correct size is attained

Passing of the baling hoops through the gaps among the square bars and pulled out on the other side

Two ends of each hoop brough together and locked in steel buckle with steel pins

CLosing up of the loose sides of pack sheets with packing needle and twine by hand sewing

Pushing off the packed bale and stitching of bottom pack sheet with the side pack sheet tails

Fig 15.b Baling Press Machine

MoRD Page 121 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

The pressure transmission pipe-line, ram cylinder, Header etc. all are kept below the floor

level. The bale preparing platform where the materials are arranged for pressing, is

actuated by the rams and has a facility for appropriate up and down movement, even

below and above the floor level. The cast iron heavy platform at the baling press zone is

lined with a number of heavy square section bars. The bars lie side by side, not fixed to

anything. The roof of the press is also a massive piece of cast iron. The roof is supported at

four corners by thick steel columns rising up from the cylinder header. The platform is

accessible from all sides for ease of preparation of Bale.

15.4.2. Method Study

15.4.2.1. Press Operator- Bag & Cloth

15.4.3. Do’s and Don’ts

Don`ts

Total yardage of the cloth or total number of bags per bale should be properly

maintained, as instructed or as per sale advice note or customer`s/buyer`s

specification

12 Profession Name: Operation:

Product: Jute Bag Module: Packing Machine: Date:

Received

Send

Handling before Operation Hand Used Freq

1. Carrying the Jute Bags from the Sack-Sewing section to the Packing section. B/H 1/1

Sequence of Operations

1. Spread the pack sheets crosswise on the platform with both hands. B/H 1/1

2. Take the required number of lapped jute bag bundles with both hands and arranged on the B/H 1/1

platform

3. When the free space gets exhausted, lower the paltform to accommodate few more bags until B/H 1/1

the space above is almost filled with bags.

4. Turn the pressure valve on. B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

7. Place the required number of baling hoops of correct length. B/H 1/1

8. Restart the pressing operation. R/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

B/H 1/1

Operation Layout

METHOD DOCUMENT

Module No.:12a. Press Operator-

Bag & ClothPacking

Baling Press Machine

Previous Operation: Sack-SewingSequence of Output

Ascending

Following Operation: NA Descending

5. After compression of the bundle of bags, few more bags are added to the bundle with both

6. Spread another pack sheet on the top.

9. Pass the baling hoops through the gap among the square gaps and then pulled outwards

10. Two ends of baling hoop brought together and locked

11. Close the loose sides of pack sheets with packing needle and twine by hand sewing

12. Push the Bale off the platform of the machine with both hands.

B ale Pressing Machine

Press Operator

MoRD Page 122 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

Also, the number of bags per bundle and No. of bundles per Bale should be

maintained as per instruction/specification

Baling of hoop of prefixed length as per quality (to be baled) should be made

readily available near the machine

Ensure correct quality of fabric or bags to be packed in each bale. In the same bale,

different quality of bags or fabrics should not be put together.

Total number of fabric cuts as well as number of short cuts (allowable) per bale

should be as per B.I.S specifications.

Hand sewing twine for sewing bale cover should be of good quality and as per

specification, so that it does not tear or fails afterwards.

Specified packing allowance is to be followed. Correct pressure for bale

preparation is to be controlled accordingly.

Weight of bale is to be maintained by adjusting and mixing heavy/light bundles of

bags or cuts of fabric in one bale. Ensure it.

The dimension of the bale should be properly known. Accordingly volume

measurement should be properly done by suitable adjustment of pressure and

correct hoop length.

Don`ts

Do not over press any bale

Do not use short hoop length for any reason

Do not mix up different quality of bags or bundles or cuts in a bale.

Do not accept inferior quality pack sheet or hand sewing twine.

Do not give excess number of joined bags or short cuts over the limit permissible.

Do not prepare under weight or excessive over weight bales.

Do not keep pressure arrangement running in empty bale-press machine.

Do not exceed packing allowance limit for any reason.

15.5. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Packing Mazdoor Carries the Jute Fabrics to the Packing Department from Sewing Department

MoRD Page 123 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

15.6. Training Gantt Chart

Training Days Required

Class Room Training Shop Floor Training

9 Days 18 Days

1 2 3 4 5

15.1 Introduction

15.2 Objective

15.3 Methodology

15.4 Baling Press Machine

15.4.1 Machine Details

15.4.2 Method Study

15.4.2.1 Press Operator- Bag & Cloth

15.4.3 Do's and Don'ts

15.5 Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

15.1 Introduction

15.2 Objective

15.3 Methodology

15.4 Baling Press Machine

15.4.1 Machine Details

15.4.2 Method Study

15.4.2.1 Press Operator- Bag & Cloth

15.4.3 Do's and Don'ts

15.5 Mazdoor Activities

MODULE 12 : PACKING

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING

MoRD Page 124 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

16. MODULE 13: MAZDOOR

16.1. Objective

The objectives of Mazdoors in the Jute Mill are:

To carry the material from one section to other in the Jute processing line

To maintain the cleanliness in the Jute Mill

To inform supervisor on the occurrence of any problem in the respective

department

16.2. Types of Mazdoor

S. No. Mazdoor Type Job Description

1 Jute Bale Unloading Mazdoor

Unloading of the Jute Bales from the truck

2 Jute Bale Handling Mazdoor

Stacks the Jute Bales in the Barrow sequentially

3 Jute Morah Carrying Mazdoor

Carries the Jute Morahs after Selection to the Batching Department

4 Jute Piling Mazdoor Carries the Jute Morahs after Selection to the Piling Zone

5 Carrier Carries the Jute Morahs after Piling to the Carding Department

6 Can Mazdoor Shifts the Jute Sliver Cans to different zone as per requirement

7 Spinning Bobbin Carrying Mazdoor (Bobbin Carrier)

Carries the Spinning bobbin from Spinning Department to Winding Department and Bring back the empty bobbins from Winding Department to Spinning Department

8 Spool Mazdoor Carrying the Spool packages from Winding Department to Twisting/Beaming Department

9 Cop Mazdoor Carrying the Cop packages from Winding Department to Weaving Department

10 Beaming Mazdoor Unloads the heavy warp beam and carries to the Weaving Department

11 Weaving Mazdoor Carries the empty shuttles from Shuttle issue Department to Weaving Department

12 Beam Carrier Carries the weaver`s Beam from Weaving Department to Finishing Department

13 Cloth Carrier Carries the Jute cloth/rolls from one process to another in Finishing department

14 Sewing Mazdoor Carries the Stitched jute bag from Stitching section to Branding and Bundling section

15 Packing Mazdoor Carries the Jute Fabrics to the Packing Department from Sewing Department

MoRD Page 125 of 125 t e c h n o p a k

16.3. Training Gantt Chart

1 2

Jute: An Introduction

Jute Manufacturing Process

Types of Jute

Types of Mazdoor

1 2 3

Jute: An Introduction

Jute Manufacturing Process

Types of Jute

Mazdoor Activities

MODULE 13 : MAZDOOR

I. CLASSROOM TRAINING

II. SHOP-FLOOR TRAINING