trail & timberline, #1005

Trail & Timberline 1

Trail &Timberline

The Colorado Mountain Club • Winter 2010 • Issue 1005 • www.cmc.org

in search of ice and snow 18 • fourteener files 26 • woman versus mountain 36

winter's rewards


If only money flowed like water...Maintaining our programs requires a steady stream of donations.

Start donating year-round through our electronic funds transfer (EFT) program today.

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environment. Please take a few minutes to read this snapshot of the last 12 months to understand and appreciate the immense contributions of our volunteers and staff. We’ve worked to improve group and member services, improve communications, shore up our finances, establish sound policies and controls, and oversee the implementation of programs to achieve the vision and values stated in our mission statement and strategic plan (www.cmc.org/strategicplan). Here is what has been accomplished: ▶ Organizational strength: Our budget is balanced and we will end fiscal year 2009 with a positive net income and positive cash flow. This has been achieved during a recession and after previous years of negative cash flows that were mitigated by capital campaigns. Obviously, operating in a deficit position is not sustainable, and the CmC’s budget required significant cuts amounting to over $100,000 in expenses, including reduction and reallocation of staff, renegotiated contracts and agreements to lower rates, and reduced printing costs. We also established new revenue sources including: a partnership with 14erWorld.com, a merger with an existing nonprofit bringing in new funding sources, and an increase in events such as a club-wide mountain Fest and many museum events. We are moving towards being a stronger 501(c)3 nonprofit organization; we already have a devoted staff and superior volunteers devoted to fulfilling CmC’s purpose.▶ Leadership: We are establishing a Statewide leadership Plan that includes the “all Star” method of leadership, emails to leaders, monthly continuing education classes, and have begun construction of a leadership web page. ▶ Communications: The CmC has improved communications with a significant facelift to Trail & Timberline magazine; created dashboard reports so board members can review and understand financials each month; implemented the “monday memo” to groups and board members; begun quarterly group chair meetings; and created a new member orientation package.▶ Program Revenue: We’ve created programs to generate revenue beyond membership

Letter from the Board of Directors

Ninety-seven and countingDear Members,Ninety-seven years ago, did the founders of the Colorado Mountain Club envision a 7,400-member orgnanization with groups in 14 Colorado cities, several thousand trips in summer and winter, and activities as diverse as hiking, fly fishing, technical ice climbing, snowshoeing, alpine skiing, extreme mountaineering, and conservation efforts to protect the environment we so cherish? Did they expect our horizons to have expanded from Colorado to trips around the world? Probably not, no more than we today can imagine how the club will operate 97 years from now, in the year 2106. Those founders did, however, have vision. They expected to take legions of people into the mountains, to help neophytes become mountain people who learned about and loved the high country. They expected to influence our governments to protect the mountains. They planned to let people know about these mountains which they loved.[The above is paraphrased from the opening words of The Colorado Mountain Club, by Hugh e. Kingery and assisted by elinor eppich Kingery.]

These are the things I prizeAnd hold of the dearest worth,

Light of the sapphire skies, Peace of the silent hills,

Shelter of the forest,Comforts of the grass,

Music of the birds, murmur of little rills.Shadows of clouds that swiftly pass,

And after showers the smell of flowers And of good brown earth,

And best of all, along the wayFriendship and mirth.

—Henry Van Dyke

One of our devoted volunteers once said, “members of an organization tend to become very comfortable

with the status-quo and are easily unnerved at the prospect of change.” Change has certainly been with us this last year. The severe realities of the current economic recession that are affecting us in our personal lives, and at national and world levels, are also impacting us right here at the CmC. Your board of directors reports to you here on the health of the club, on the many accomplishments over the past year, and on enhanced services for members, all achieved in this difficult and challenging economic

dues including: mountain Fest, backcountry bash, group fundraisers such as the aspen presentation with Jake norton in august, December’s backcountry ball in Steamboat Springs, and the Wooden Ski Festival in February. ▶ Museum: The american mountaineering museum continues to gain ground and has increased attendance by 25 percent over last year. Seeing nearly 10,000 visitors since opening in 2008, the museum is becoming more of a known attraction through public relations and marketing efforts, as well as through excitement generated by its monthly programs. Currently, the museum has secured significant corporate sponsorship from companies like Keen, Vibram, lowa, and Chums, and will continue to grow its corporate program in 2010. exciting items brought into the collection this year include the summit boots worn by Jim Whittaker during his 1963 ascent of mount everest and one of bradford Washburn’s large Fairchild camera film cassettes. in addition, the museum has provided visitors with an educational and inspiring exhibit line-up including On High: Cartography of Topography (a map exhibit made possible by renowned map collector Wes brown); Bradford Washburn's Photographs: From the Favorites (an exhibit displaying some of Washburn’s personal favorite prints, on permanent loan from Cody Smith); and the latest exhibit Thin Air: An Exhibit on Altitude and Oxygen. ▶ Press: Sales from the CmC Press exceeded last year’s unit sales by 40 percent. Our revenue exceeded last year’s by 25 percent; we sold $211,000 worth of books for our best year ever. The three city pack guides were, in large part, a major source of our success. The Best Colorado Springs Hikes guide book sold exceptionally well. ▶ Governing Board: The board continues to move towards a governance role (although there are still many areas in which individual board committees are involved in operations). board meetings now encompass as much strategic evaluation as operational review. ▶ Conservation: in may, the CmC and our partners celebrated the creation of the Dominguez escalante national

Continued on page 4


Winter 2010Trail & Timberline • issue 1005 • www.cmc.org

22 The SecreT STaSh

Some days are made for floating on powder. Other days are just right for exploring. and then there are accidents. Yes, accidents do happen—and the results can prove phenomenal.

By Greg MearsPhotography by Mark Sööt 26 The FourTeener FileS (and Beyond)Who made the lists this year? more importantly, what did they learn on their journey?

By Linda Crockett, Dave Goldwater, Chris Ruppert, and Teresa Gergen

EXTRA: The Final Three a Touch oF hiSTory By Marlene Borneman By Jim Rickard

Saving The FourTeenerS Bike 'n' hike By Alan Spriggs By Bart Miller

36 agneS vaille vS. longS Peak Though you may know the tragic winner of this duel, there still remains the question of why.

By Woody Smith

40 Seeing The Peak For iTS PeBBleS

big views aren't the only things that are beautiful. Discover how some find beauty in details.

By Chris Case, Carol English, and Mike Foster

2622


01 Letter from the Board of Directors

05 Inbox

06 On the Outside 08 Mission Accomplishments

learn the latest from the Conservation and education Departments, as well as the mountaineering museum.

14 The ClinicWinter's climbing rewards can be many—if you travel wisely. By Dave Cooper

18 PathfinderGlaciers may seem exotic, but Colorado has its share. Visit a vanishing species in the Front range.By Chris Case

42 CMC Adventure TravelWant to get away? Join classic CmC trips to alaska, the Grand Canyon, mount elbrus, nepal, and more.

Departments

on The coverWind-carved snows and the warmth of the afternoon sun are two of Colorado's many winter rewards. Chris Case

36


Editor’s NoteConservation area just south of Grand Junction. This 210,000 -acre swath of the Colorado Plateau has something for everyone—hiking, climbing, biking, hunting and fishing. it includes the 66,000-acre Dominguez Canyon Wilderness, which is at the heart of the designation, and protects species such as the desert bighorn sheep and bald eagle; preserves petroglyphs, pottery shards, and other artifacts; and provides access to incredible geological points of interest. On the Front range, we celebrated the designation of rocky mountain national Park's backcountry as wilderness. The designation is one of the final chapters in the long journey of protecting the park. First recommended for wilderness designation under the nixon administration, the park's backcountry will be kept in its primitive state, ensuring future generations will be able to view and enjoy the peaks, valleys, rivers, and wildlife much as we do today. This continues the club’s rich conservation history: in 1915, the CmC played an instrumental role in the creation of rocky mountain national Park.▶ Access and stewardship: beyond protecting landscapes, the CmC's conservation department continues to promote access opportunities and stewardship projects. a perfect example of the CmC's leadership in these two arenas is our work on Wilson Peak near Telluride. as some of you may know, the most popular route to the summit of Wilson Peak was closed in 2005. Since that time, the CmC has been working with The Trust for Public land, San miguel County, the U.S. Forest Service, and the Telluride mountain Club to re-open traditional access to the summit. Club volunteers recently completed a trail layout and signing project on the mountain. after the completion of a new trailhead and parking area, the peak should be re-opened in 2010.▶ Education: last year YeP introduced 5,100 students and chaperones in the Denver metro area to academics, fitness, and leadership in the mountains and foothills, in their schools, and at the american mountaineering Center. Funding was secured to expand the Youth education Program to Palmer High School in Colorado Springs, with the addition of five weekend field trips with refugee students. new techniques were developed to work with youth who have severe handicaps. For example, students with cerebral palsy and other mobility disabilities were able to experience adaptive rock climbing. For the first time, YeP provided a five-day rock climbing and outdoor skills course for kids who live in transient motel housing through the Colfax Community network. YeP also implemented parent belaying/training so that parent volunteers could be active participants in their children’s school field trips. We would not be successful as a club without the immense work and contributions of our groups, their chairs, leaders, and volunteers. The Colorado mountain Club exists to provide its members with endless opportunities to enjoy the magnificent outdoors. it is our devoted group leaders and volunteers who really create this experience. We invite you to visit www.cmc.org for more information and we ask you to call members of the board of directors (www.cmc.org/board) with specific questions and suggestions. Or, you may send us an email at [email protected] or to the board president, Wynne Whyman, at [email protected]. Your comments and input are valuable and important to the governing of our club.

Sincerely,

The CMC Board of Directors

© 2009 colorado MounTain cluB all rights reserved

www.cmc.org

The official publication of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1918.

Trail &Timberline

ediTor, direcTor oF PhoTograPhy & deSign

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adverTiSing SaleS

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The colorado MounTain cluB710 10th Street, Suite 200Golden, Colorado 80401

The CMC is a 501 (c)(3) charitable organization.

The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to▶ unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado;

▶ collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation;

▶ stimulate public interest in our mountain areas;

▶ encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and

▶ render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region.

Trail & Timberline (iSSn 0041-0756) is published quarterly by the Colorado mountain Club located at 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; single copies are $5. POSTmaSTer: Please send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. advertisements in Trail & Timberline do not constitute an endorsement by the Colorado mountain Club.

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Trail & Timberline keeps on climbing. Pikes Peak Group member Paul Franco continues a new tradition of carrying the Trail & Timberline to the top of the world's summits. Chachani, at a height of approximately 19,980 feet, is several hours outside of the city of Arequipa, in southern Peru. "Our base camp was at 16,500 feet, and we started up to the summit at 3 a.m., summiting at 8:30 a.m. on June 18, 2009. Nothing technical, just crampons and an ice axe." Continue the tradition—send us your photo.

On the ascent Having the good fortune to grow up in estes Park from the 1950s through the 1970s, i am very familiar with the beauty, serenity, solitude, majesty, and public value of rocky mountain national Park. Having recently completed reading the Fall edition of Trail & Timberline, i found it informative, inter-esting, and insightful. While i was familiar with enos mills and the significant impacts he had on the estes Park valley and the park, i was not aware of the major role that the other found-ing members of the CmC had in driving the establishment of rocky mountain national Park. i also knew that many of the peaks in the area had indian names, but was fascinated and educated by the story about the nomen-clature Committee and the 1914 pack trip with the three arapaho to secure the proper naming of the peaks for perpetuity. This is a great example of the heritage of the CmC—started on a great foundation—and also gives me a better appreciation of its significance and the need to carry on such traditions.

William Burgess, Durango

a group of us happened to be sitting at a table filled with CmC members in Glen-wood Springs despite the fact that this was a non-CmC event. everyone was raving about the latest issue of Trail & Timberline. my wife, mar-lene, and i had been in the San Juans for the better part of a week, so we had not seen our copy as yet. i got to it in my mail yesterday and can only concur at every level. The de-sign, photos, and most of all, the content, are superb. You and Jerry Caplan deserve high praise for your leading articles and i see you even managed to work my old friend, Todd Caudle, into the mix! i know that the CmC is talking about rebranding, but you have already begun that process in spades by producing an award-winning, flagship publication.

Walt Borneman, Estes Park

i was recently at a social event in Glenwood Springs. Several of us gathered had received the most recent issue of Trail & Timberline

and agreed it was about the best issue we could recall. it was one of the few times that i didn't have to force myself to read every single article; i just wanted to. each one, most certainly including “borrowing from Our Children,” was extremely well written. The timing of the issue couldn't have been better in light of recent statements on the club’s environmental heritage. The photos were first-rate. The little birthday tribute to Paul Stewart was in-spired. it reminded me of the magazine’s “good old days,” when there were many per-sonal touches like this one. my father and Paul hiked together a lot. He's such a fine man and a true gentleman who's been de-voted to the club ever since he joined.

Jan Robertson, Boulder

Thanks for one of the finest editions of Trail & Timberline in my 55 years with the CmC.

Hugh McCaffrey - Avalon, New Jersey


On the OutsideCrystals of ice form a diamond-studded waterfall along Andrews Creek in Rocky Mountain National Park. Chris Case


By Bryan Martin, Director of Conservation

WHaT COUlD DamPen the spirits of a gathering of backcountry skiers? Certainly not a bit of november snow. The 17th annual backcountry bash, with its long and storied history as the annual fundraising event of the backcountry Snow-sports alliance (bSa), went off with a bang on Saturday, november 14, at the american mountaineering Center. Over 250 revelers braved the elements they love best to attend the first attempt by the Colorado mountain Club to carry on the bash tradition. Through both silent and live auctions, ticket sales, and donations, the CmC was able to raise over $20,000 for the backcoun-try Snowsports initiative (bSi), the fruit of last summer’s merger between the bSa and CmC. The bSi continues the strong tradition of conservation within the club, and further expands the reach to the winter months: its highest priorities include engag-ing in winter travel management planning at Vail Pass, rabbit ears Pass, and other

We had a BaSh 17th Annual Backcountry Bash

Mission Accomplishments

To learn more about the Backcountry Snowsports Initiative, visit www.cmc.org/bsi.

popular sites throughout the state. “it’s a pleasure to be able to donate products for a good cause like the CmC’s backcountry Snowsports initiative,” said CmC member, former bSa board member, and Osprey Packs representative Tom Gor-don. “The CmC does a great job of educat-ing the public on outdoor issues and preserv-ing the special places we play in.” Former bSa members and CmC mem-bers are equally excited about the opportu-nities of the new initiative. “The bSi powerfully expands the reach and efficacy of human-powered winter rec-reation advocacy in Colorado,” commented lee rimel, a CmC board member and longtime bSa member. “The energy and commitment of CmC members combined with the winter advocacy experience of for-mer bSa members will ensure that human-powered recreationists always have access to their favorite snowsports places.” if the bash itself is any guide, club mem-

bers have plenty of energy to go around. During the bash, CmC Conserva-tion Director bryan martin introduced Jay Heeter, the new Central mountains Con-servation Coordinator. Jay comes to the club with degrees in law and public policy, as well as experience organizing campaigns and teaching downhill skiing. He is already working hard to implement the backcoun-try Snowsports initiative’s strategic plan. “People around the state know the CmC name,” said Heeter. “and they know that it means a strong commitment to out-door recreation. The initiative ensures that CmC voices are heard on conservation is-sues year round, not just in the summer months.” △

◀ One lucky winner brought home a pair of K2 skis, all for putting her hands on her head during the "heads-or-Tails" Game.▼ Tom Gordon talks gear with auctioneer Norm Silver before the live auction, as the audience begins to gather.▼▼ Quiet experiences like this are a result of advocacy work like the Backcountry Snowsports Initative. Heath Mackay


TWo For oneTwo Adventure Travel Trips, Each a once-in-a-lifetime Experience

if you’ve ever wanted to venture outside of the “comfort” of Colorado, to foreign lands whose beauty and lure are legend-ary, look no further than the Colorado mountain Club. The adventure Travel program will visit some of the most mag-nificent destinations in the world in the coming year, and bring you life-list views, experiences, and adventure.

Arctic BlissBy Bea Slingsby

THOUGH iT iS Well known for the controversy surrounding what commodity may lay beneath (if you haven’t heard, oil has often been sought underground), the arctic national Wildlife refuge is one place whose floral and faunal inhabitants are its most spectacular attributes. “The arctic national Wildlife refuge is a once in a lifetime place, where the wild has not been taken out of the wilderness,” says bea Slingsby, the CmC leader of the trip. Though she proclaims it a place you must visit at least once, bea has been fortunate to visit three times before. The trip offers that wild experience rarely found in the world today: Dall sheep, grizzly bears, wolves, arctic fox, musk ox, thousands of migrating caribou, and nest-ing birds on the coastal plain make this trip truly unforgettable. and did we mention the golden eagles, peregrine falcons, loons, owls, and jaegers that you should expect to see, or the vast array of wildflowers? and this comes just on land. much of the trip distance will be covered by raft along the Kongakut river, a north-flowing river in the northeast corner of alaska that empties into the arctic Ocean. The 10-day raft trip will start in the northernmost brooks range, known as the british mountains. Paddling north from the peaks on this clear river, you enter a region of rugged and rounded foot-hills with excellent views of the brooks range to the south and the arctic Ocean to the north. entering into the Kongakut’s delta, the raft will pick its way through a maze of river braids to a massive freshwater ice field (aufeis) acting as a gate to the arctic Ocean. Time spent on the coast will offer a

chance to explore old sod houses, tent rings, and relics from the whaling era. Here the tundra swans nest, along with other birds. Seals can be seen on the shore-fast pack ice. “We will be led by the most incredible and knowledgeable guides,” Slingsby says. “ron can tell so many stories, and share so many thoughts on his time spent in alas-ka—it enriches the whole experience.” as if a once in a lifetime experience wasn’t enough.

The Caucasus ConnectionBy Steve Bonowski

baKSan ValleY, GarabaSHi huts, ski lifts, snow cats, Pastukhova rocks. The com-mon thread? They’re all part of any climb of mount elbrus. The inactive, double-summit volcano (it last erupted some 2,000 years ago) is located in the western part of the Caucasus mountains of southern russia. The western summit (18,510 feet), due to its location just north of the main ridgeline of the range, is considered by cartographers to be in europe. Thus, for all the lore associ-ated with the alps, it is elbrus that is consid-ered the highest mountain in europe—and one of the fabled Seven Summits. beginning in 1994, the High altitude mountaineering Section of the Colorado mountain Club has sponsored several trips to the mountain, the first being led by Steve bonowski and malcolm Wentling. There have been five trips since, each bringing out the flavor of russia and its singular charm,

Bea

Slin

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YOUR MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARYNEEDS THIS BOOK“IN FALL 2008, the Colorado Mountain Club published a

guidebook that was riddled with typos and 70 years out of date, at a time when online competition has put the future of even the most current printed guidebooks in question. And it charged $185 per copy.

“‘It sounds crazy,’ Alan Stark, the club’s publisher, said recently as he cracked open a new, hardbound copy of the guide. ‘Obviously, this is not a typical guidebook. It’s a collector’s piece. People will buy it not to use it, but to have it.’

“The book is called The San Juan Mountaineers’ Climber’s Guide to Southwestern Colorado. It was first published in 1933—hand-typed and hard-bound in less than a half-dozen copies. It was the first modern guidebook in Colorado, and with its maps, photos, and route descrip-tions, it set the template for the hundreds that have followed.

“Climbers have passed around photocopied and stapled versions for generations, making it an almost mythic book. The club reproduced it exactly, down to the crossed-out letters and handwritten notes in the margins of the typed pages.

“In one sense, the Guide to Southwestern Colorado is a history book. In another, it is still a living guidebook.” —Dave Philipps, The Gazette, Colorado Springs

The San Juan Mountaineers’Climber’s Guide to Southwestern Colorado

L IMITED EDIT ION AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELYFROM THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB PRESS

ORDERS: 303-996-2743

For more information on our other adventures of a lifetime, visit www.cmc.org/AT or see page 42.

and the club has grown a connection to the mountain. elbrus is located in a remote area of the russian backcountry; there is no easy access. From either moscow or St. Peters-burg, one flies south to the smaller city of mineralnye Vody (pop. 75,000). Just north of the mountains, the city, as the name would indicate, serves as a gateway to the mineral waters of the Caucasus. The steppes around minVody might be reminiscent of the plains of eastern Colorado if it weren’t for the crumbling, Communist-era high rise apartments and extinct, volcanic spat-

ter cones on the outskirts of town. From minVody, a drive of several hours will bring you to the baksan Valley. Here, outside of the town of elbrus, beautiful dachas once used for holidays by junior members of the Soviet-era Politburo make for a great resting place. in the hamlet of azau—sitting at 7,000 feet in the end of the valley—the climbing can begin. a two-stage cable car system pro-vides transport to 12,000 feet. This is fol-lowed by the exotic, single-chair ski lift to 13,000 feet and the infamous barrel huts. You have reached base camp.

During your stay, you’ll likely experi-ence the notoriously fickle elbrus weather. The mountain has a maritime climate; it sits just 75 miles from the black Sea. imagine what happens when warm, moist subtropi-cal air rises over three miles to meet ice and snow. The results can be both entertaining and spectacular, especially if you’re sitting inside a giant barrel. On summit day, a pre-dawn snowcat ride takes you to exposed rock formations just under 15,000 feet, the aforementioned Pastukhova rocks. Here, the real work be-gins: This is a major peak day, traveling two linear miles to gain another 3,600 feet. The route is well trodden, wandered by russian guides, but because of the frequent summer storms and whiteout conditions, elbrus is best climbed in first-class weather. From the 17,700-foot saddle between the twin summits, climbers steeply traverse the west summit, to the top of what remains of the crater wall, now just a broad ridge. a stroll of several hundred yards brings you to the summit—and the rooftop of europe. △

Stev

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By Chris Case

WHen YOU’re 16 YearS OlD, you don’t spend much time thinking about the consequences or rewards of playing outside. For some kids it’s just natural and habitu-al—they play outside until they’re called in for dinner. For others, it couldn’t be more foreign or inaccessible—they might play video games until dinner is served. it’s hard not to have heard of an initia-tive or symposium focusing on getting kids active and outdoors these days, even in the leanest state in the country, Colorado. Sur-rounded by an abundance of land and beau-tiful landscapes, parks and prairies, Colora-dans seem like they should be immune to the epidemic of obesity. but a full 13 per-cent of kids in Colorado are obese. The average american kid spends a pal-try 30 minutes per week outside in unstruc-tured play, the caldron of discovery. There’s been so much discussion about this issue—due in large part to the popular-ity and acclaim for richard louv’s book Last Child in the Woods, in which he popularized the term “nature deficit disorder”—that Colorado's lt. Governor, barbara O’brien, has even published a “Colorado Kids’ Out-door bill of rights,” listing the things all Colorado kids should have the opportunity to do before they grow up. it’s as if 16-year-old erin Youngkin wrote it.

Ahead of the Timeserin is different. She plays outside and thinks about how that makes her feel; she sets goals for herself, often loftier than the goals of folks twice her age; she has a plan, inspirations and idols; and she’s a member of many classes of the Colorado mountain Club’s Youth education Program (YeP). it isn’t often that you can say the CmC is ahead of the times. The club may not have the reputation for being trendy or cutting-edge. and that’s never been a bad thing. The thing is, for a decade the club has been ahead of the times when it comes to getting kids outside. and it makes sense. “Using the power of nature to awaken a child’s senses, curiosity, and desire to learn is a powerful, inexpensive tool to educate our children,” said Katie blackett, the club’s

CeO, during the last forum stop of the lt. Governor’s statewide tour. Since 1999, YeP has reached 50,000 students from kindergarten to twelfth grade. The goals have remained the same: get kids outside for the health of the mountains and themselves; foster an appreciation for environ-ments and academics, living, and learning. “With YeP, i have been teaching little kids to climb, and seeing them get to the top is really cool,” erin says. “i discovered rock climbing on my own. The first time i tried it, i hated it. Then i came to YeP and i re-ally liked it. it was the people.” She lists rock climbing, skiing, biking, and hiking as her favorite activities. Her an-swer to the question of how often she gets to do these things will probably strike a chord with most club members: “not enough. i spend a lot of time thinking about the out-doors. Winter is better because i get to ski every weekend. Summers are different. but, not enough…” The outdoors is more than just a play-ground for this Heritage High School stu-dent. She has higher aspirations. Coinciden-tally, they involve high places. “i have a dream to climb the Seven Summits, to be on top of the world. not a lot of people do it or think about it. it would be a once-in-a-lifetime thing.” Originally, erin wanted to be the first

colorado kidErin Youngkin Climbs High

person with diabetes to lay claim to having climbed the highest peaks on the earth’s seven continents. alas, someone beat her to it. Still, she wants to see the world, climb high, and experience her dream. but, why not start by climbing the fourteeners? “The fourteeners would be training…climbing the seven summits would mean i get to see the seven continents.” Her passion for the outdoors is just one small facet of this teenager. She lists Gandhi as her inspiration; hopes to work with Doctors Without borders; wish-es for nothing more than to help people. “Gandhi had a dream and went after it, nonviolently, and helped other people. That’s what i aspire to do.” after five years of summer classes and school programs—spending the past two summers in the instructor-in-Training pro-gram of YeP—is erin getting too mature for her years? She looks over the Colorado Kids’ Out-door bill of rights, something that she is only vaguely familiar with. She’s done every-thing on the list already, except visit a work-ing farm. but she has a suggestion as to what she would add. “if i was to add one it would be ‘play in the snow and build a snowman.’” Still sounds like a kid to me, albeit a humble and mature one. △

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By Anya Byers, Recreation Planning Coordinator

DOeS THe qUeSTiOn eVer cross your mind, “What does the CmC do for me?” With a multifaceted mission, the club is de-fined by accomplishments that mean some-thing different to each member. To measure the successfulness of our work this year, the conservation department chose to place its accomplishments within the context of our mission, and highlight some of the categories of people for whom it was meant to serve.

To the Hiker, Climber, and SkierFor avid outdoor recreationists, quality ex-periences matter and depend on well-main-tained trails, public access to world-class climbs, and untracked backcountry powder. as part of our mission to maintain access, the CmC helped secure a conditional re-opening to public access of mounts lincoln and Democrat in June. We also finalized the trail to the summit of Wilson Peak, avoiding private land in the Silver Pick basin. Upon completion of a new trailhead, it will be possible to re-open the north side of Wilson Peak to the public. in 2010, we hope to regain public ac-cess to mount bross so that hikers can legal-ly complete the mounts lincoln, Democrat and bross triumvirate in one day. We also hope to re-open public access from the west side of Crestone Peak and Crestone needle. also in June, the CmC merged with the backcountry Snowsports alliance, ex-

panding the scope of the conservation de-partment’s quiet recreation advocacy work to include winter recreation plans. Through the merger and subsequent formation of our backcountry Snowsports initiative, the club became the primary organization dedicated to quiet winter recreation in Colorado. To that point, the CmC submitted comments and supported partners on the north routt Winter recreation Plan, as well as summer recreation planning on the San Juan, Pike-San isabel, White river, and Gunnison na-tional Forests. as the club continues its planning ef-forts in 2010, members are encouraged to contact us to voice their opinions, help draft letters, attend meetings, and more.

To the Scientistas a result of efforts by the CmC and our co-alition partners, Congress passed the Omni-bus Public lands bill in march, designating more than 300,000 acres of new wilderness in Colorado. This included the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness in western Colorado and rocky mountain national Park. The club has been a dedicated partner in pursuing wilderness designation for the Hidden Gems areas of the White river na-tional Forest, which we hope to secure in 2010. These wilderness landscapes—both designated and planned—represent natural laboratories for undisturbed ecological pro-

cesses and provide necessities like clean air, clean water and healthy wildlife. Contact us to get involved in critical wilderness moni-toring and inventory work.

To the Nature Lover and ArtistThe CmC remains dedicated to protecting wildlife habitat and threatened landscapes around Colorado. During the 2009 legisla-tive session, the club supported Colorado sportsmen to ensure the continuation and ex-pansion of the Division of Wildlife’s Habitat Stamp program. The program will provide up to $10 million for the DOW to protect criti-cal wildlife habitat throughout the state. The club has also been a leader in the statewide effort to strengthen the Colorado roadless rule, closing loopholes that would allow for new road building in roadless land-scapes. in September, the club hosted a pre-sentation and exhibit of spectacular photos by nelson Guda, taken in roadless areas across the country. We hope that these and other ef-forts will help secure full protection for Colo-rado’s roadless landscapes in the near future.

To the Loyal Coloradan and StudentThis year, CmC members volunteered over 2,200 hours on stewardship projects through-out the state in partnership with the U.S. For-est Service, the bureau of land management, and other public land management agencies, greatly exceeding our goal. in addition, 18 leaders received certification through the Outdoor Stewardship institute’s Crew leader Training program. The stewardship program offers opportunities to learn how to give back to the places you love at any age. The conser-vation department is committed to working with club members to donate 2,500 steward-ship hours during the upcoming year. On behalf of our members, the CmC reaches out to its partners and the greater community by taking part in a number of advisory councils and stakeholder collabora-tive processes. The director of conservation, bryan martin, currently participates in Vol-unteers for Outdoor Colorado’s Stewardship advisory board, co-chairs the Division of Wildlife’s Conservation Forum, and sits on two forest health collaborative groups: the Front range roundtable and the Colorado bark beetle Collaborative. △

WhaT The cMc doeS For MeConservation accomplishments for 2009

It is only with the generous support of conservation donors that we will be able to accomplish our goals. We thank our current donors for supporting the work we have accomplished and we hope that you will consider joining us in shaping the future.

Mar

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The Colorado Mountain Club thanks the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District and its citizens for their

continuing support.www.scfd.org

The Colorado Mountain Club is a proud member of Community Shares of Colorado.

Virginia Nolan Happy 95th Birthday

January 7, 2009

▶ Virginia on a foothills climb, circa 1948

◆ Member since Nov. 12, 1946

◆ Thirty-seventh person to climb all of Colorado's fourteeners

(Aug. 23, 1952)

◆ First woman (and 3rd person) to reach the summits of all 69 peaks above 14,000 feet in the lower 48 states.

(Guinness Book of World Records Holder)

For Membersmember benefits

→ Join us on over 3,000 annual trips, hikes and activities in the state’s premiere mountain-adventure organization.

→ Expand your knowledge and learn new skills with our schools, seminars, and events.

→ Support our award-winning Youth Education Program for mountain leadership.

→ Protect Colorado’s wild lands and backcountry recreation experiences.

→ Enjoy exclusive discounts to the American Mountaineering Museum and Base Camp gift shop.

→ Travel the world with your friends through CMC Adventure Travel.

→ Receive a 20% discount on all CMC Press purchases and start your next adventure today.

→ It pays to be a member. Enjoy discounts of up to 25% from retailers and corporate partners. See www.cmc.org/benefits for details.

opportunities to get more involvedCharitable Donations

Join our select donors who give back to the club every month by using electronic funds transfer (EFT). It is easy and convenient, you can discontinue anytime, and you’ll provide support for critical programs. Sign up at www.cmc.org/support.

By naming the Colorado Mountain Club in your will, you will be able to count yourself among the proud members of the 21st Century Circle. Read more at www.cmc.org/legacy. Please consult your financial advisor about gift language.

If you have any questions about donations, please contact Sarah Gorecki, Development Director, at 303.996.2752 or [email protected].

Volunteer EffortsIf you want to share your time and expertise, give back to the club by volunteering on a variety of projects, from trail restoration to stuffing envelopes. Visit www.cmc.org/volunteer for a complete listing.

Contact UsOur Membership Services team can answer general questions every weekday at 303.279.3080, or by email at [email protected].


The Clinic

Winter RewardsClimbing Mountains in the Frosty Months

It might be cold, it might be windy, but winter can be the most rewarding time to climb Colorado’s mountains. Gone are the crowds on the fourteeners. Nasty scree slopes can be hidden under a blanket of snow. Also buried are the trails, requiring (and inviting) you to make your own tracks. Our mountains never look more stunning than when adorned with a

coating of the white stuff. Aesthetics aside, winter allows us to develop our mountaineering skills more completely than during the summer months. Remember, though, that while the rewards are greater, so too are the risks. Just as in summer, head up to the hills well prepared and you are likely to have a great time. Being unprepared in winter, however, leaves you open to having an unpleasant experience, at the least. The possibilities beyond that can prove much worse. Still, the incentives are plenty. Below are five tips to help you reap the rewards of your winter adventures.

By Dave Cooper

A storm clears on the approach to the East Ridge of Mount Bancroft.Dave Cooper


Know Your Snow ▶ Take an Avalanche Awareness CourseHeading into the backcountry in the winter without having an understanding and healthy respect for the vagaries of snow is like going into the mountains during hunting season wearing that nice, fur-covered antler hat that your ex- gave you. You’re asking for trouble. Colorado has one of the least stable snowpacks in the continental United States. in an avalanche awareness class, you’ll learn (at a minimum) to evaluate the stability of a snow slope, how to avoid dangerous areas, and how to use avalanche beacons, snow shovels and probe poles in rescue situations. You’ll also be able to interpret the backcountry forecasts put out by the Colorado avalanche information Center (http://avalanche.state.co.us). by the way, don’t just check the avalanche conditions the day of your trip. make it a habit to check on a regular basis, so you’ll know the history of the snowpack. it has been said that when it comes to avalanche prediction, there are no experts. but, you can do a lot to minimize your likelihood of becoming a victim. and learning how to safely launch a rescue of other team members can make all the difference.

Winter Warrior ▶ Understanding the Hazards Specific to Winter MountaineeringDuring the summer, a simple equipment malfunction may be little more than an annoyance. Something like a broken ski binding in the winter can leave you stranded with no way to get out—unless you’re prepared. an injury in the backcountry might mean a night out—not necessarily too serious in the summer, but possibly life-threatening in the winter. The same goes for getting lost. Know how to avoid and provide first aid for frostbite and hypothermia. Check your team members for signs of frostbite on exposed skin and signs of confusion and slurred speech that may indicate hypothermia. remember that the days are much shorter, often necessitating a predawn start or moonlit finish to achieve your goals. a good headlamp and spare batteries (kept warm in an interior pocket, along with your spare cam-era batteries) are essential. Trails will most likely be covered by snow. Don’t assume that you’ll be able to follow your track back down the mountain—footsteps can be filled in by the wind within minutes. Whiteout conditions can reduce vis-ibility to zero. also, just because there’s a track from a previous party, don’t assume that they knew where they were going. remember that a successful trip is one where everyone returns safely, having had a good experience. The probability of reaching your summit in the winter is lower than on a nice day in the summer. and reaching the top is not the only reward. Some of my fondest memories come from winter trips that ended short of the objective. On a February attempt of Keiners route on longs Peak, we made a planned biv-ouac at 13,000 feet. a storm which moved in overnight destroyed any hope of completing the route, but the experience of lying in my sleeping bag in such a location, watching the sun rise on the Diamond Wall while spindrift avalanches cascaded down around us was too special to lament.

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Left to Right: Dave Cooper, Chris Case (2)


Tricks of the Trade ▶ Caring for Yourself in the Coldnot much can spoil a day out like a frozen water bottle. Typically, the large-mouthed bottles are less prone to the cap freezing; storing your bottle upside down is another trick that works. insulated carriers are essential. Pre-heating the water before you set out can also help. Occasionally, i’ve carried a water bottle inside my parka. Hydration systems can be problematic in winter due to freezing. i learned the hard way that foods such as apples freeze and become inedible. When you stop for a break, have a warm, “puffy” layer at the top of your pack that you can quickly put on over all of your other layers (including your wind shell). Don’t take off layers before adding more. This can rap-idly chill you. When you’re ready to start moving again, remove the parka so you don’t overheat. Carry multiple pairs of gloves, including some very warm mittens. What do you do when the weather deteriorates while you’re descending from your peak? in the old days (i.e. before GPS), we would flag critical points on the way up using surveyor’s tape, removing them on the way down. This can still be a valuable method, but these days i use a GPS to fulfill the same function. On several occasions, using the GPS to follow my uptrack back down with near-zero visibility has saved me from some suffering. Of course, the map and compass are also essential to have along. Once, when descending Grizzly Peak in poor visibility, we met a group hiking up the mountain (lots of un-

dulating terrain along the ridge). They thought they were descending and couldn’t be convinced other-wise until i showed them the map and compass.

make sure you test and know how to use your gear before the trip. There’s nothing like trying to erect a tent for the first time at dusk in a snow-storm. Same goes for your stove. You should know how to field-strip, clean, and repair the stove as well. if you’ve ever experienced a stove breakdown in the mountains, you know the feeling of panic when you foresee a long night of grumbling hun-ger pangs and the inability to melt snow for water. adjust and check crampons, skis, and snowshoes before the trip. become an expert in the use of an ice axe.

Organize the contents of your pack so you don’t have to empty it every time you stop. Carry a few energy bars in your pocket so you can eat with-out taking off the pack (plus it keeps those bars from breaking your teeth). Have your water bottle accessible. Keep your rest stops short.

expect to burn a lot of calories in the winter. This isn’t the time to start your diet. also, it’s easy to get dehydrated when it’s cold. make the extra effort to drink enough fluids. Your energy will be depleted much sooner if you don’t.

Bonus ▶ Beyond the Basicslearn how to build emergency snow shel-ters. i’ve used these on several occasions to avoid carrying a tent; a snow saw weighs much less. if an emergency does arise, you’ll

be prepared. The CmC offers a variety of excellent courses to help you develop and build on the basic skills. Some of these cover basic mountaineering, high al-titude mountaineering, backcountry skiing, tech-nical ice climbing, and winter camping. Colorado’s mountains in winter are to be respect-ed, not feared. Develop the skills and you will have a much more rewarding and enjoyable experience.

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The snowshoe approach to Greg Mace Peak in the Elk Range. Dave Cooper


Decisions, Decisions ▶ Making Choices for Winter Travel in winter, trailheads are likely to be in a different spot than in the summer. This will influence your decision as to whether an objective can be reasonably accomplished in a day or not. Contact the appropriate U.S. Forest Service ranger District (if in their jurisdiction) for current access information. likewise, your route will often be different than the summer route. Use your topographic map to evaluate a safe route, paying particular attention to slopes above treeline. in winter, routes will primarily be along ridges, on flat terrain or on very steep terrain. Pay attention to the aspect of slopes and evaluate with regard to recent weather events and avalanche conditions. For example, high winds will likely transport snow onto lee slopes. always check the weather forecast for the area you’re heading to, not the Denver forecast presented by a television personality. Start with less-committing objectives. Choose easy ridges with short approaches, straightforward routefinding, and low avalanche danger. as you gain new skills and confidence, you can progress to more challenging climbs. For overnight trips, use your map to choose possible campsites. Good candidates in Colorado are often just below tree line, out of any avalanche paths and in a relatively flat area. remember that a route that has too many objective hazards for a mid-winter attempt may be very reason-able as a late winter/spring trip after the snow has stabilized. When it comes to mode of travel (flotation), decide whether to use skis or snowshoes based on the route, skill level of the group, and snow conditions. On routes such as byers Peak, with long approaches on snow-covered roads or gentle trails, skis are my first choice. i learned early, however, that there are times when skis become a li-ability. Trying to negotiate a steep, narrow trail or skiing slopes with changeable snow conditions, carrying a heavy pack, is more than i can handle. The “pile-driver effect” is particularly annoying—a split-second after you land face-first in the snow, the pack drives your face further into the snow bank. This is obviously related to your skill level. Skis can also become a liability when carrying them attached to your pack, say, on a narrow ridge. They’ll act like sails if there’s any wind. i’ve found that having a mixed group where some members are using skis while others use snowshoes does not work well. With wise decisions, you'll reap the just rewards. △

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Peak Trailhead Round trip distance (miles)

Elevation gain (feet) Comments

Grizzly Peak1 Loveland Pass 5.6 2,900 Low avalanche hazard; stay away from cornices

Marble Mt., E. Ridge2 S. Colony Lakes Rd. 10.8 4,700 Good snowshoe climb with great views

Byers Peak1 St. Louis Creek Rd. 13.0 4,140 Approach best done on skis to treeline

Mt. Sherman2 Fourmile Creek 9.2 3,100 Avoid cornices guarding summer route

Twin Peaks2 Zapata Falls 7.6 4,500 Some bushwhacking required to reach ridge

Mt. Ouray2 Marshall Pass Rd. 7.0 4,250 Routefinding, bushwhacking required to treeline

Atlantic Peak, W. Ridge1 Mayflower Gulch 5.4 2,900 Avalanche slope can usually be avoided

Drift/Fletcher, W. Ridge1 Mayflower Gulch 5.4 2,900 Avalanche slope can usually be avoided

Mt. Bancroft, E. Ridge1 Loch Lomond Rd. 7.9 3,030 Short technical section requiring rappel, then 5.2 rated climb out of notch

Longs Pk., North Face1 Longs Peak 12.2 4,850 Long, committing, and technical

Torreys Pk., Kelso Ridge3 Bakerville 12.5 4,530 Long, committing ridge climb

Dave Cooper is the author of Colorado Snow Climbs: a Guide for all Seasons and Colorado Scrambles: Climbs beyond the beaten Path. He writes the Trail Mix column for The Denver Post.

1See Colorado Snow Climbs: A Guide for All Seasons for more information 2Visit http://davecooperoutdoors.com/trailmix.html for more information3See Colorado Scrambles: Climbs Beyond the Beaten Path, for more information

SUGGESTED OBJECTIVES


◉Pathfinder

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Savor Our Snow and IceColorado’s Front Range Glaciers and Perennial Snow Patches

Story and Photography by Chris Case

Arapaho Glacier on Sept. 6, 1914, and 95 years and one week later on Sept. 13, 2009.


Glaciers are hot. For years, scientists have been studying and reporting on the accelerating rates of re-treat of the world’s ice sheets (the largest gla-ciers), the decline of mountain glaciers big and small, and the subsequent rise in sea lev-els. media reports have followed: retreating glaciers around the world (at the poles, in the alps, closer to home in Glacier national Park); polar bears that are quickly losing their habitat; island nations that are seeking to buy property elsewhere, fearing their land may soon be underwater. it all might seem a little foreign, a little too distant to have a profound impact. but, if you need a small reminder of how things are changing ever closer to home, look no further than Colorado’s Front range. The range boasts all of the 14 named glaciers in the state, most of them in rocky mountain national Park. They’re all very small—and getting smaller. as any good scientist would tell you, shrinking glaciers in the Front range of Colorado do not equal an indicator of global change in our climate—it just isn’t that sim-ple. but studies have shown that since 1999, most of the glaciers in the Front range have shown marked recession. all of this climate science has become controversial—because it’s become politi-cized. That’s too bad, because glaciers are an incredible species. They are worth visiting, if for no other reason than to witness his-

tory. and whether humans are at fault for an environment significantly and irreversibly altered by our activity doesn’t really matter in this context. The climate is changing; the glaciers are shrinking, with indisputable evi-dence to prove both. What may matter to you is that Colo-rado’s mountains may someday soon be void of its glaciers and the 135 other recognized permanent snow and ice patches. You love Colorado’s mountains because of the trees, flowers, wildlife, lakes, streams, and peren-nial snow patches that coat them. in no small part, you can blame the glaciers and snow for the aesthetic of our state. “Glaciers are a manifestation of the sea-sonal snow that we depend on for water re-sources: water quantity and water quality,” says mark Williams, a geographer with the institute of arctic and alpine research (in-STaar) at the University of Colorado. “Snow and icemelt provide water when we need it most, during the summer growing season.” but, does Colorado have any real glaciers? The basic definition of a glacier is an ac-cumulation of ice that has formed from fall-ing snow, one that’s thick enough to deform under its own weight. in other words, the ice moves. Snow cornices and snowfields can slip as a mass and exhibit movement, but are not actually deforming. So, yes, we have glaciers. You may also hear the term glacieret, something perhaps more familiar to scien-tists in Colorado than to anyone else, any-where else. “a glacieret is just a term for a very small glacier,” says matt Hoffman, a geologist at Portland State University with an extensive knowledge of Colorado’s glaciers. “Using that term keeps the glaciologists working on ice sheets and in places like alaska from say-ing things like ‘Colorado? There aren't any real glaciers there!’” So, yes, we have glacierets, too. but if you’re walking through the moun-tains of Colorado and come across snow or ice, it may not be so easy to tell what you’re looking at. To see glaciers as their denuded selves, without the cover of snow, there is a fairly narrow window. “To the untrained eye, you would just look for massive ice, as opposed to snow, but it will probably only be exposed in late sum-mer—august or September—but before fall snow begins,” Hoffman says.

Witnessing Historyearlier this decade, two discoveries in the Front range led to a startling suggestion. On two separate instances, hikers stumbled upon what were later learned to be remnants of bison horn—radiocarbon dated at 2,090 and 2,280 years old—released from peren-nial snow patches as they slowly receded. The suggestion? ice and snow coverage along the Con-tinental Divide, where the discoveries took place, have retreated to levels not seen in

two millennia—since the time of Christ, or the beginnings of the roman empire. Glaciers in Colorado may form a little differently than in other places—most of them are found in cirques where wind and avalanche can deposit snow—but they still operate like any other glacier. They’re churn-ing through the snow that enters them—at a place scientists call the bergschrund—and spitting it out at its leading edge every 200 to 300 years. but more interesting may be what's permanent. “Permanent snow and ice patches are different [from glaciers] in that they are stat-ic features,” says Craig lee, an archaeologist at inSTaar. Unlike the snow in glaciers, the permanent snow can be thousands of years old. “i use glaciers as a proxy—their foot-print might stay the same but the thickness

◀ OUT YOU GOArapaho Glacier Near the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area

Start Fourth of July trailhead, near Nederland

Mileage 3.5 miles to the saddle between South Arapaho Peak and Caribou Peak

Tip Many hikers climb to the summit of South Arapaho Peak (13,397 feet) after reaching the glacier overlook. There is the further option of traversing along the ridge from South Arapaho Peak to North Arapaho Peak, which at 13,502 feet is the highest mountain in the Indian Peaks Wilderness area.

Did you know? In 1927, the city of Boulder acquired the Arapaho Glacier as part of a 3,685-acre land purchase from the federal government for the purpose of protecting the city's water supply. Boulder now has the distinction of being the only city in the United States that owns a glacier. Several pristine lakes further down the valley are also owned by the city and, like the glacier, are strictly off limits to the public.

“Glaciers are icons of the unique wild environments at high elevation in the Rocky Mountains. When the glaciers are gone, we’ll all have lost part of our soul.”


of the glacier may have lessened—so i know that if runoff is greater, that ice patches near it are melting and might be revealing things that are older than what’s in the glaciers. i know that if something is found, that it has been revealed recently because things that are that old [3,000 years old] don’t last that long in the open air, on the ground.” but don’t think that you can be the next indiana Jones of glacial archaeology. “bison horns and skulls are found be-cause they stand out,” lee says. “mule deer, elk, bird remains, other paleontological findings are out there… but any findings are protected by law, and you should con-tact land managers or archaeologists with any findings.”

Glacier Watchit wasn’t until late in the nineteenth century that the presence of glaciers in Colorado, past or present, was recognized. Clarence King, the first director of the United States Geological Survey, classified the state as hav-ing been formerly glaciated, but neither he nor Ferdinand Hayden identified any gla-ciers in Colorado in their now famous Unit-ed Survey of the american West. The first scientific description of a gla-cier in Colorado belongs to G.S. Stone of Colorado Springs, who described Hallett Glacier (now known as rowe Glacier) in northern rocky mountain national Park in the journal Science in 1887. near the turn of the twentieth century, discoveries flourished. Tyndall Glacier had been identified in 1893 by Frederick H. Chapin and Sprague Glacier in 1895 by enos mills. W.T. lee first described arapaho Glacier (Colorado's largest) in 1900 in Sci-ence. mills wrote a guidebook in 1905 that included a map locating andrews, Hallett, Sprague, and Tyndall Glaciers. isabelle Gla-cier was discovered by Fred a. Fair in 1908. So, after only 100 years of knowing that glaciers exist in this state, are we close to losing these glaciers altogether? “based on my research, you might es-timate anywhere from 15 to 50 years before these glaciers disappear,” Hoffman says. “However, these glaciers exist in highly fa-vorable locations where they get up to 10 times the local snowfall due to wind-drift and avalanching, and they are shaded from summer sun. i expect that as they get small-er, many will become increasingly resilient to additional retreat. That being said, sustained regional warming would have the potential

The route to Tyndall Glacier may be the best part of the trip. ▲ Hallett Peak looms over Emerald Lake at the end of the maintained trail. ▶ It then looms over you as you scramble through the talus slope of Tyndall Gorge.

OUT YOU GO

Tyndall Glacier Rocky Mountain National Park

Start Bear Lake trailhead

Mileage 1.8 miles to Emerald Lake; 1 mile of steep scrambling with 1,800 feet of elevation gain through the talus of Tyndall Gorge.

Approach Start from Bear Lake, heading left towards Nymph, Dream, and Emerald Lakes. Though this area sees the most tourist traffic of any trail system in the park, the hike offers remarkable beauty. The trail ends at gorgeous Emerald Lake. From here, head to the south of the lake below the impressive north face of Hallet Peak. Once above the steep section, continue up a series of ramps and gullies, choosing the path of least resistance. The final obstacle before you reach the glacier's snout is the rubble of a terminal moraine.

Tip After climbing through the boulders of Tyndall Gorge, you may want to (a) climb the glacier (which would warrant the use of ice axe and crampons, at a minimum); or (b) scramble to the north side of the glacier reaching the summit of Flattop Mountain. From here, you can either walk south along the Continental Divide and descend Andrews Glacier or descend via the Flattop Mountain Trail, 4.4 miles back to Bear Lake.

Did you know? Rock glaciers exist below Taylor and Tyndall Glaciers, as well as in many other locations without glaciers. If you visit them, be careful, as the surfaces of rock glaciers are extremely unstable. Rock glaciers are large masses of rock that actively flow like a glacier. The complex mixtures of ice and rock found in the park flow downhill at speeds of up to 20 centimeters per year. While rock glaciers have a characteristic glacier- or lava-like appearance from the air, they can be hard to recognize on the ground, resembling nothing more than a talus slope.

to eliminate or severely reduce many of these glaciers and perennial snowfields.” When they’ll disappear calls for much speculation, though what will happen when glaciers are gone is generally recognizable. “We’ll lose diversity in the plant and animal species, and insect species,” says lee. “more and more, we know everything is connected. Things will be affected further and further down the valley. Species that had been in equilibrium might then have to compete for fewer resources.” and when it comes to a commodity that’s already in short supply—water—there will be even less for our rivers, and for agricultural, commercial, and municipal uses. beyond that, it could be that we would lose some of the essence of Colorado. “Glaciers are icons of the unique wild environments at high elevation in the rocky moun-tains,” says Williams. “When the glaciers are gone, we’ll all have lost part of our soul.” △


▲ OUT YOU GO

Andrews Glacier Rocky Mountain National Park

Start Glacier Gorge trailhead, south of Moraine Park (near Bear Lake)

Mileage 5.3 miles, one way

Elevation Gain 2,510 feet

Approach Hike towards Loch Vale, passing Alberta Falls along the way. Turn right at the trail junction just beyond Embryo Lake and head towards Andrews Glacier. Look for The Sharkstooth to the south as you hike through The Gash.

Did you know? Although glaciers always flow downhill, the idea of glacier “retreat” may give the impression that a glacier can move uphill. In fact, a glacier is in retreat when it is melting back faster than it is moving downhill.

Andrews Glacier in 1913 and 2009.

◀◀ The route to Andrews Glacier takes you past some of the most dramatic scenery in all of Rocky Mountain Na-tional Park, like the Gash and The Sharkstooth. ◀ Once there, investigating the glacier isn't too bad either.

For more information, visit www.glaciers.pdx.edu/Projects/LearnAboutGlaciers/ROMO/index.html


Secret Stashthe


By Greg MearsPhotography by Mark Sööt


Every backcountry skier remembers the day they discover a new area to ski—copious amounts of mental energy and

calories have been expended in the pursuit of that next “secret stash.” Some will spend hours poring over topo maps or digital equivalents. Some will be on the constant lookout for potential new slopes, evidenced by considerable head twisting and pointing while driving through the mountains. For those with skiing permanently on the brain, the twisting and pointing extends into the temperate months, their imagination focused on how the terrain will hold powder. Picking the right day and partners to explore for a promising new spot can also take some time. many of my touring partners and i won’t risk wasting a per-fect ski day by exploring a new area, especially if it means breaking trail in deep snow. Perfect days are made for fa-vorite spots, where we can predictably log powder turn after powder turn. We wait for days with poor skiing condi-tions to test our route-finding abili-ties—and scout for new terrain. Pref-erably, this is done during a long, dry spell when the avalanche conditions are low and visibility is good. Then, there are the accidents.

Life’s LessonsSki touring can mimic life’s lessons in many ways: no pain, no gain; quality is better than quantity; strength in numbers, to list a few. life also teaches us that sometimes what we’ve been searching for has been in front of our eyes all along. Such was the case when, several winters ago while on a tour to one of my favorite areas, i made a beloved discovery. The day began like many before, with skiing friends mark, Steve, and me ponder-ing our options for good turns. like many backcountry skiers, we keep an inventory of areas in our mental databases, categorized by terrain, aspect, steepness, and wind ex-posure, among other things. We apply what we know about past and current weather and avalanche conditions to select an area that should have the best snow conditions each day. When sunny and windy weather creates crusty surface conditions, we choose areas with sheltered powder, usually on shady north-facing slopes. likewise, by knowing what the prevailing wind direction has been, we can choose to ski lee slopes holding deeper wind-deposited snow. There is plenty of meteorological pondering in finding good powder.

Then there are the areas filed under “ski under specific and rarely-encountered condi-tions.” Today was one of those singular days. We knew that a long period of warm weather had created a melt and freeze cycle on ex-posed west- and south-facing slopes. Over-night, a storm moved through that froze the snow surface before depositing 8 to 12 inches of new snow. Churning through valuable mental energy with a scientific analysis that mr. Wizard would be proud of, our goal crys-tallized: ski a southwest face at Vail Pass that would otherwise be avoided (due to wind and sun crust) but today would have a support-able crust with powder on top. Simple.

The Discoverybreaking trail in the cold morning silence, we worked as a team to put in an uptrack that would involve minimum effort and the least exposure to avalanche terrain. The three of us each have our own style of touring. Steve is good at taking the line of least resis-tance. His measure of success is an uptrack that doesn’t require anyone in the group to deploy their climbing heels. He knows that the fastest course is not always the shortest distance between two points. mark has an uncanny nose for navigating tricky terrain while still keeping the group on course. He’s adept at reading the slightest terrain changes even in dense trees so we arrive at exactly the right spot. We don’t always share the same opinion on how to get where we’re going, but we trust each other and follow the leader. now, at the top of our climb, Steve and i were preparing to descend. mark had an-other idea and suggested we continue climb-ing to the top of the ridge. as an avid moun-taineer with a self-admitted fever for peak bagging, this came as no surprise to Steve or me. even with tight trees and snow drifts

blocking the way, we agreed to follow him the final 100 feet to the ridgeline. Joining mark on the ridge, we saw that his curiosity still had not been quenched. Following his gaze, our eyes were drawn to a gently sloping fall line off to our east. Skiing down the rolling ridge we traversed onto the slope for a better look. There it was. Draped beneath us was a 400-foot untracked bowl, sheltered from the prevailing westerly winds, loaded with light, undisturbed powder. Could it be ours?

Testing the WatersYes, we had found some powder. but was it really a secret stash? Was it safe to ski? The bowl’s slope was moderate; there were no signs of avalanche haz-ard. Still, we approached that first run cautiously. Steve volunteered to go first. He skied along the upper, convex arc of the slope, testing the snow pack’s strength, then descended close to the relative safety of the trees. mark and i followed one at a time down the mid-dle of the bowl. bliss. The descent was only about 40 turns long, but as with most backcoun-try skiing, the quality of the thigh-deep, untracked snow made up for

the relatively short vertical. We caught our breaths long enough to let out a holler be-fore eagerly reattaching our skins. back on top after a 20-minute climb, we saw that mark had already slithered down the slope beside our previous course, stacking his tracks right next to our previ-ous turns. not only was he conserving the untracked powder, but he also gave us a ref-erence point for starting our next run. Our ability to match each other’s turns is another reason we are compatible ski part-ners. We’ve each practiced the art of stacking tracks while on hut trips in british Colum-bia, where it’s a common ski style used by large groups. not only is it used as a survival tactic to safely ski between crevasses, but it’s seen as a method for preserving, or farm-ing, untracked powder so it lasts throughout a week of skiing. not to mention the fact that it looks very elegant and aesthetic when done correctly, leaving not a single track crossed by another.

Our Little Hidden Bowlafter three bottomless runs we returned to

...copious amounts of mental energy and calories have been ex-pended in the pursuit of that next secret stash.


make an anticlimactic descent of the west side, as its conditions paled in comparison. back at the car we reveled in our unexpected discov-ery and named it “east bowl,” a name deemed fittingly vague and unpretentious for our little hidden bowl. Since that day, i’ve returned to east bowl at least once a season, yet still haven’t seen another skier, or even signs of previous tracks. it’s the only area i frequent that i can say that about. east bowl represents what makes Colorado’s mountains so unique for backcountry skiing. While the state may not lay claim to having the steepest or longest ski descents in the West, it makes up for it with the variety of terrain. Few states have the number of mountain ranges and ease of access that we do in Colorado. as a result, unlike in some other states, it’s rare to experience crowds or tracked-out slopes in our backcountry. if and when we do, Colorado’s end-less backcountry terrain makes it possible for anyone to find their own little hidden bowl, whether by mental energy or accident. as in life, sometimes the acci-dental discoveries are best of all. △

Greg Mears is a past president of the BSA Board of Directors.

Vail Pass Winter Recreation Area is one of the most effectively managed winter recreation areas in the western

United States, including more than 25,000 acres of quality terrain protected for human-powered use. The Backcountry Snowsports Alliance (BSA) was instrumental in advocating for safe, quiet, and quality recreation for skiers, snowboarders, and snowshoers at the pass. Working in collaboration with motorized groups and the U.S. Forest Service it helped to successfully resolve growing levels of conflict experienced by recreationists at the pass in the early 1990s. The resulting system of mixed- and separated-use terrain effectively preserves quality areas for non-motorized recreation, including the entire eastern side of the pass. The BSA merged with the CMC in 2009 and its mission is preserved by the conservation department’s Backcountry Snowsports Initiative (BSI). To learn more about the BSI, visit www.cmc.org/bsi.


Fourteener FilesBy Linda Kothe Crockett

the

Those who reported completion of Colorado's fourteeners in 2009

List compiled by Linda J. (Kothe) Crockett, 11-15-09

anyone who has climbed Colo-rado's fourteeners has a singu-

lar story to tell. Who better to tell that tale of adventure than the com-pleters themselves? many sent let-ters when reporting their comple-tion. These are their stories. Kiefer Thomas reports having soloed all of the fourteeners, except the maroon bells, el Diente and Wilson Peaks. “This is something i’ll rectify in the coming few weeks!” alexi lainis, 12, finished the fourteeners with a climb of Snow-mass mountain with his parents, Glenda and andrew lainis. His fa-ther carried him up nine fourteen-ers before he was able to climb his first, Castle Peak. On his first fourteener, mount bierstadt, Kurt mensch hiked with his seven-year-old daughter while carrying his three-year-old daugh-ter. in all, he carried his youngest daughter up five summits. “While i did over two-thirds of the summits solo, the most important were the three summits we did as a family. it has been an incredible experience that took me to remote areas i nev-er would have otherwise considered and provided me new friends and strengthened my family by giving me a project that kept me busy!” Dan akerhielm shares a tale that many may find familiar. “a freak snowstorm caught me on the summit of the first one and tried to kill me—i was hooked after that!” Geoffrey martindale writes, “When i first came to america from england, i flew into Dia and was bowled over by the incredible sight of the Front range. i soon started hiking, and during my two years in Colorado, i climbed 18 fourteeners. in 1998 i moved to Dallas because of work, and did the remaining 36

No. Name FirsT PeaK DaTe FiNaL PeaK DaTe1282 Donna Allenbaugh Longs Peak July 1976 Mount Elbert Oct 19851283 Dan Akerhielm Mt. Princeton Aug 1985 N. Maroon Peak July 19941284 Sherry Richardson Grays Peak July 1988 Pikes Peak Sept 20001285 Richard Hahn Longs Peak July 1991 Culebra Peak Aug 20041286 Alan Spriggs Longs Peak June 1986 Wetterhorn Peak July 20051287 Jeff Valliere Quandary Peak Aug 1995 Capitol Peak July 20051288 Michael Busby Mount Elbert Sept 1996 Culebra Peak June 20061289 Robert L. Drage Longs Peak Aug 1962 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20061290 Beth Bershader Mount Bierstadt July 1999 Crestone Needle Aug 20071291 Keith Bershader Mount Bierstadt July 1999 Crestone Needle Aug 20071292 Lon Carpenter Mount Sneffels July 1995 Snowmass Mtn. Sept 20071293 Linda Pryor Capitol Peak Sept 20071294 John Ward Mount Huron Aug 1971 Mount Wilson Sept 20071295 Stan L. VanderWerf Mount Princeton July 1991 Mount Sherman Oct 20071296 Brandon Chalk Longs Peak 1998 San Luis Peak Aug 20081297 Ron Erwin Longs Peak Sept 1973 Capitol Peak Aug 20081298 Erik Etheridge Pyramid Peak July 2001 Mount Sneffels Aug 20081299 Del Gratz Pikes Peak July 1975 Crestone Peak Aug 20081300 Nathan Hale Mount Democrat Aug 1995 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20081301 John Martersteck Longs Peak Aug 1993 Mount Sneffels Aug 20081302 Debbie Welle-Powell Mount Princeton Aug 1999 Sunlight Peak Aug 20081303 Kathy Deane Mount Windom 1977 Ellingwood Point Sept 20081304 Andy Jung Mt. of the Holy Cross June 2002 Crestone Peak Sept 20081305 Ellen Ritt Mount Antero Aug 1991 Mount Tabeguache Sept 20081306 Kiefer Thomas Longs Peak July 1991 Snowmass Mtn. Mar 20091307 Ryan Aldrich Quandary Peak Sept 2000 Mount Humboldt July 20091308 Ken Beegles Mount Democrat June 1968 Mount Sherman July 20091309 Tom Chapel Longs Peak Aug 2002 Handies Peak July 20091310 Bo Johnson Mount Bierstadt July 2004 Wilson Peak July 20091311 Mark S. Stover Longs Peak Aug 1981 Pikes Peak July 20091312 Denton Anderson Mount Yale May 1983 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091313 Charlie Carter Longs Peak 1970 Little Bear Peak Aug 20091314 Chris Cash Mt. of the Holy Cross July 1986 Maroon Peak Aug 20091315 Barbara Churchley Mount Shavano Aug 1982 Capitol Peak Aug 20091316 Dan Dennison Grays Peak July 2000 Crestone Peak Aug 20091317 Matt DiPaolo Grays Peak July 2006 N. Maroon Peak Aug 20091318 Jeff Eick Grays Peak July 1990 Mount Eolus Aug 20091319 Janet Farrar Grays Peak Aug 1997 Capitol Peak Aug 20091320 Dean Graves Mount Elbert 1993 Capitol Peak Aug 20091321 Dominique Hershberger Longs Peak Aug 1993 Culebra Peak Aug 20091322 G. Kent Keller Longs Peak July 1950 Capitol Peak July 20091323 Ryan Kowalski Pikes Peak Aug 20091324 Alexi Lainis Castle Peak June 2002 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091325 Andrew Lainis Castle Peak June 1994 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091326 Glenda Lainis Castle Peak June 1994 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091327 Bob Lewis Quandary Peak July 1990 Mount Wilson Aug 20091328 Anne Lutz Longs Peak Aug 1987 Mount Eolus Aug 20091329 David Patterson Wetterhorn Peak July 1991 Pikes Peak Aug 20091330 Megan Patterson Mount Windom Aug 1992 Pikes Peak Aug 20091331 Jean Roy Pikes Peak June 2009 Crestone Needle Aug 20091332 Barb Ruddy Grays Peak Aug 1988 Ellingwood Point Aug 20091333 Jeff Shafer Mount Democrat Sept 1996 Little Bear Peak Aug 20091334 Martin Smith Little Bear Peak 1981 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091335 Ron Stauffer Handies Peak May 2000 Pyramid Peak Aug 20091336 Robert White Mt. of the Holy Cross Aug 1981 Crestone Needle Aug 20091337 Dave Chavez Grays Peak Sept 1994 Torreys Peak Sept 20091338 Holly Chavez Grays Peak Sept 1994 Torreys Peak Sept 20091339 Philip A. Koneman Mount Democrat 1976 Pyramid Peak Sept 20091340 Geoffrey Martindale Mount Bierstadt June 1996 Pyramid Peak Sept 20091341 Tom McClernon Mount Shavano June 2006 Uncompahgre Peak Sept 20091342 Kurt Mensch Mount Bierstadt Aug 2001 Mount Elbert Sept 20091343 Debra L. Nelson Grays Peak Aug 1989 San Luis Peak Sept 20091344 Cory William Skluzak Snowmass Mtn. July 1986 Mount Harvard Sept 20091345 Roger J. Wendell Mount Sherman July 1997 El Diente Sept 20091346 Chris Casar Grays Peak July 1989 Castle Peak Oct 2009


THE ALL-NEWTHE ALL-NEW

TWICE THE SIZE MEANSTWICE AS MANY DEALSTWICE THE SIZE MEANSTWICE AS MANY DEALS

Beyond the Fourteeners*

Beyond the Thirteeners

100 Highest Peaks

200 Highest Peaks

300 Highest Peaks

800 Highest Peaks

900 Highest Peaks

1000 Highest Peaks

*No one reported having completed the 400, 500, or 600 highest peaks, or all of the thirteeners.

By Chris ruppert

By Teresa Gergen

No.

107155158162165168169170171172

606263

6

5

5

3031

Name

Gerry RoachBrian KaletJohn CurtissPaul MonsonJohn BalciarBill FarrowDave LongeneckerRyan KowalskiJohn BroadbooksDavid Butler

Wayne HerrickPenny MartensJohn Curtiss

Kirk Mallory

Kirk Mallory

Kirk Mallory

Craig PattersonKathee Thomure

FiNaL PeaK

Turret PeakRio Grande PyramidJagged MountainJagged MountainTeakettle MountainRio Grande PyramidJagged MountainPikes PeakJupiter MountainColumbia Point

Pilot KnobSilver MountainCoxcomb Peak

Ute Benchmark

Dunsinane Mt.

Whetstone Mt.

Unnnamed 13462 BSleeping Sexton

DaTe

10/3/998/19/078/28/078/2/088/25/088/8/098/22/098/29/099/6/099/19/09

9/3/089/17/088/7/09

7/26/09

8/8/09

10/3/09

9/30/088/20/09

For recognition in next year's issue, send the registration form (visit www.cmc.org/14erform) by Oct. 15 to the Colorado Mountain Club at 710 10th St., #200, Golden, CO, 80401; or you may send an email to [email protected]. For Beyond the Fourteeners/Thirteeners recognition, please include the date and name of the last peak. Letters received after Oct. 15 are held for the following year.

fourteeners from there—typically flying to Denver on a Saturday, climb-ing on a Sunday, flying out on a monday and then going straight to work! in recent years, i found a longer trip to be far more enjoyable.” G. Kent Keller, a retired Presbyterian minister and leader in the club's Shining mountains group, completed his fourteeners on Capitol Peak in July, at age 72. He climbed his nine most difficult fourteeners af-ter turning 70. Keller began the fourteeners with longs Peak in 1950, at age 13. in 1951, he read a National Geographic article by robert Ormes, which spurred his interest in doing the climbs. Keller regards mountain climbing as a profoundly spiritual experience. He usually climbs with three other senior citizens, who refer to themselves as “The medicare Four.” During his final climb, he was met with graupel, lightning, and buzzing trekking poles—and ended with sunshine, in what he calls a “grand finale for the fourteeners quest!” Finally, andy Jung provides us with a prospect for the future: “The thirteeners are the new fourteeners.” △

No. Name FirsT PeaK DaTe FiNaL PeaK DaTe1282 Donna Allenbaugh Longs Peak July 1976 Mount Elbert Oct 19851283 Dan Akerhielm Mt. Princeton Aug 1985 N. Maroon Peak July 19941284 Sherry Richardson Grays Peak July 1988 Pikes Peak Sept 20001285 Richard Hahn Longs Peak July 1991 Culebra Peak Aug 20041286 Alan Spriggs Longs Peak June 1986 Wetterhorn Peak July 20051287 Jeff Valliere Quandary Peak Aug 1995 Capitol Peak July 20051288 Michael Busby Mount Elbert Sept 1996 Culebra Peak June 20061289 Robert L. Drage Longs Peak Aug 1962 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20061290 Beth Bershader Mount Bierstadt July 1999 Crestone Needle Aug 20071291 Keith Bershader Mount Bierstadt July 1999 Crestone Needle Aug 20071292 Lon Carpenter Mount Sneffels July 1995 Snowmass Mtn. Sept 20071293 Linda Pryor Capitol Peak Sept 20071294 John Ward Mount Huron Aug 1971 Mount Wilson Sept 20071295 Stan L. VanderWerf Mount Princeton July 1991 Mount Sherman Oct 20071296 Brandon Chalk Longs Peak 1998 San Luis Peak Aug 20081297 Ron Erwin Longs Peak Sept 1973 Capitol Peak Aug 20081298 Erik Etheridge Pyramid Peak July 2001 Mount Sneffels Aug 20081299 Del Gratz Pikes Peak July 1975 Crestone Peak Aug 20081300 Nathan Hale Mount Democrat Aug 1995 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20081301 John Martersteck Longs Peak Aug 1993 Mount Sneffels Aug 20081302 Debbie Welle-Powell Mount Princeton Aug 1999 Sunlight Peak Aug 20081303 Kathy Deane Mount Windom 1977 Ellingwood Point Sept 20081304 Andy Jung Mt. of the Holy Cross June 2002 Crestone Peak Sept 20081305 Ellen Ritt Mount Antero Aug 1991 Mount Tabeguache Sept 20081306 Kiefer Thomas Longs Peak July 1991 Snowmass Mtn. Mar 20091307 Ryan Aldrich Quandary Peak Sept 2000 Mount Humboldt July 20091308 Ken Beegles Mount Democrat June 1968 Mount Sherman July 20091309 Tom Chapel Longs Peak Aug 2002 Handies Peak July 20091310 Bo Johnson Mount Bierstadt July 2004 Wilson Peak July 20091311 Mark S. Stover Longs Peak Aug 1981 Pikes Peak July 20091312 Denton Anderson Mount Yale May 1983 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091313 Charlie Carter Longs Peak 1970 Little Bear Peak Aug 20091314 Chris Cash Mt. of the Holy Cross July 1986 Maroon Peak Aug 20091315 Barbara Churchley Mount Shavano Aug 1982 Capitol Peak Aug 20091316 Dan Dennison Grays Peak July 2000 Crestone Peak Aug 20091317 Matt DiPaolo Grays Peak July 2006 N. Maroon Peak Aug 20091318 Jeff Eick Grays Peak July 1990 Mount Eolus Aug 20091319 Janet Farrar Grays Peak Aug 1997 Capitol Peak Aug 20091320 Dean Graves Mount Elbert 1993 Capitol Peak Aug 20091321 Dominique Hershberger Longs Peak Aug 1993 Culebra Peak Aug 20091322 G. Kent Keller Longs Peak July 1950 Capitol Peak July 20091323 Ryan Kowalski Pikes Peak Aug 20091324 Alexi Lainis Castle Peak June 2002 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091325 Andrew Lainis Castle Peak June 1994 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091326 Glenda Lainis Castle Peak June 1994 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091327 Bob Lewis Quandary Peak July 1990 Mount Wilson Aug 20091328 Anne Lutz Longs Peak Aug 1987 Mount Eolus Aug 20091329 David Patterson Wetterhorn Peak July 1991 Pikes Peak Aug 20091330 Megan Patterson Mount Windom Aug 1992 Pikes Peak Aug 20091331 Jean Roy Pikes Peak June 2009 Crestone Needle Aug 20091332 Barb Ruddy Grays Peak Aug 1988 Ellingwood Point Aug 20091333 Jeff Shafer Mount Democrat Sept 1996 Little Bear Peak Aug 20091334 Martin Smith Little Bear Peak 1981 Snowmass Mtn. Aug 20091335 Ron Stauffer Handies Peak May 2000 Pyramid Peak Aug 20091336 Robert White Mt. of the Holy Cross Aug 1981 Crestone Needle Aug 20091337 Dave Chavez Grays Peak Sept 1994 Torreys Peak Sept 20091338 Holly Chavez Grays Peak Sept 1994 Torreys Peak Sept 20091339 Philip A. Koneman Mount Democrat 1976 Pyramid Peak Sept 20091340 Geoffrey Martindale Mount Bierstadt June 1996 Pyramid Peak Sept 20091341 Tom McClernon Mount Shavano June 2006 Uncompahgre Peak Sept 20091342 Kurt Mensch Mount Bierstadt Aug 2001 Mount Elbert Sept 20091343 Debra L. Nelson Grays Peak Aug 1989 San Luis Peak Sept 20091344 Cory William Skluzak Snowmass Mtn. July 1986 Mount Harvard Sept 20091345 Roger J. Wendell Mount Sherman July 1997 El Diente Sept 20091346 Chris Casar Grays Peak July 1989 Castle Peak Oct 2009


The

ThreeFina

lBy ma r lene Bor nem an

▲ The intimidating spire that is The Sharkstooth. Chris Case◀ Marlene stands with Dick Chuttke (right) and Don Sturn atop Longs Peak after an ascent of Kieners Route. ▶ Marlene pauses on her way down The Sharkstooth. Eli Helmuth


it began innocently enough in 1974. i came to Colorado for a summer job at the YmCa of the rockies in estes Park. i arrived from new Orleans—yes, below sea level—in mid-may of that year and, being a proper young lady from the South, i wanted to make a good impression on my new employer. i wore a sleeveless silk dress—rather short as i recall—stockings, and the cutest little heeled sandals you ever laid eyes on. it was somewhere around 30 degrees and spitting snow. it turned out to be one of the scariest days of my young life. all i could think was, “i have made a terrible mistake!” Fortunately, those feelings didn’t last all too long. Once over the cultural shock of my summer home, i settled into the rhythm of working—and learning about a phenom-enon called “hiking.” i was fortunate to meet Dick Chuttke. He was a retired gentleman, a YmCa member, and a CmC member who enjoyed hiking with the YmCa groups. iron-ically, he suffered from acrophobia, that irra-tional fear of heights. He became my climb-ing mentor for the next 20 years, taught me how to be fast and careful at the same time, and instilled in me the ethics of leave no Trace before it was popular or common. From short silk dress to summits, my progression came fast. by the end of that summer i had climbed most of the major peaks in rocky mountain national Park. Having graduated from college, i decided to stay in Colorado. You might say the rest is history, but it was not that simple. i lived in estes Park for 12 years and climbed in the park year-round. i found my-self focused on the major peaks, and their dif-ferent routes, with a few new peaks thrown in now and again. Then came a career move away from Colorado; to say i began grieving would be an understatement. but, by 2001, i had returned to live full time in estes Park. after completing the 54 fourteeners in 2005, i was hit with the pain of guilt. i imagine you all know what it’s like to ignore a friendship. This was worse: it was like ne-

glecting your own husband. after all, rocky mountain national Park was now my back-yard. i began to rekindle my relationship with rocky, started studying the map with new interest and curiosity. When you get down to it, though 35 years had passed, Dick’s spirit motivated me to complete the 126 named summits in Colorado’s crown jewel. This was the project i needed to turn neglect into passion. First, i carefully laid out the list. There were 35 peaks i hadn’t yet climbed. by the summer of 2009, i had only three to go. Then, reality struck me hard. The final three were The Sharkstooth, Hayden Spire (both Class 5, technical climbs requiring ropes and equipment) and Pilot mountain (a dif-ficult, though less technical, Class 4 climb). Had i set myself up for this? Shouldn’t the last peak be easy, like estes Cone or Twin Sisters? i hadn’t climbed anything beyond Class 4 in years. i lost some sleep, talked incessantly to my husband, and consulted every book and person who i thought could set my mind at ease. Then i came to the realization that the final three were meant to be my grand finale. i needed a challenge; i wanted a chal-lenge. i needed to gain my confidence back on the rope; i needed a plan. it sounds like i needed a lot. The Sharkstooth was the first of my final three and, as it turned out, my most challenging climb in rocky. my climbing partner and i left the parking lot at 3:45 a.m. i once read that eighty percent of suc-cess is just showing up. i liked my chances. in past years i had gazed upon The Sharkstooth countless times, from various points, and not once contemplated climbing it. most anyone that sees this spire knows it is an intimidating presence. now, here i was actually moving toward it with the intent to climb this fang of a rock. i kept walking. The sky turned cloudless—a deep blue, Colorado morning without a breath of wind. We would be climbing the east Gulley route (5.4). The first pitch was going easy enough, on ledges, until we came to a short, but very exposed traverse. i watched my partner go

across with ease, up to a small crack, out onto a smooth rock face, then scramble up another crack. Traversing the ledge looked feasible, but when i came to the first crack i just couldn’t visualize the move. i stared at it for what seemed like eternity. Here i was, committed to this menacing climb, and the first move was proving to be baffling. The staring must have helped. Finally, it all came together and it was over—behind me. i was sweating like a pig. Good thing i had given up that silk dress. Things were going smooth until the crux: a wall of 60 feet, extremely exposed. Once again, i was paralyzed. i found myself looking at this wall, caught in my own world, for endless amounts of time. i had watched my partner climb straight up with ease. Fi-nally, i took a deep breath, let it out slowly. i knew i needed to move quickly; no hesitat-ing, just go. i stepped out onto the wall and got my fingers into the crack—trusting my climbing shoes to hold on what seemed to be nothing—and scampered up. Though my stares felt eternal, my moves seemed mere flashes; i was on top of the cliff. as i climbed toward the summit, tears were in my eyes. This was what it was about: i hadn’t gotten here because of a list, but be-cause i had taken a risk. Ultimately, i reached the summits of the final three with a smile from ear to ear. i found myself enjoying these peaks more than i imagined. i will forever remember the air beneath my feet, the sudden flight and song of finches above my head, the simulta-neous sense of inner relaxation and burst of excitement, and the incredible sound of the silence around me. You may ask, is there anything left of that southern girl from 1974? my father was a riverboat captain; he lived with patience, endurance and persever-ance. i gained these traits from him, check-ing catfish lines across the river, trolling for shrimp in lake Pontchartrain at 5 a.m. maybe this is why i adapted so well to the mountains and persevered to the top of 126 of rocky’s best. and, oh yes, i still love wearing silk dress-es (longer now) and cute heeled sandals. △

Marlene Borneman is a clinical social worker. She has climbed 82 of the 100 highest peaks in Colorado and 33 of the 50 state highpoints.

Courage faces fear and thereby masters it.

Cowardice represses fear and is thereby mastered by it. – martin luther King Jr.


i’ve always liked hiking, especially above tree line. The landscape is fragile and rough, the air is full of color, wind, and clouds; it’s a place for dreaming. being up in the high country enables epiphanies—often about how you’d be less hungry and cold if you got down into the trees. So, i set out this summer on a seven-week adventure to hike Colorado’s fourteen-ers with a special twist—riding to the trail eads by bike. i don’t recall when the idea first

came to me. by mid-winter, i had talked to my wife and boss (yes, two separate people) and secured the time off. Soon enough, i was telling other folks of my plan and by summer felt compelled to actually do what i was non-chalantly boasting about in advance. i had climbed several fourteeners in the 1980s, so i had a rough idea of what hiking would be like. but fourteener “peak bagging” is much more popular today; it’s crowded up there. a weekend day on a fourteener near the Front range is a far cry from “getting away from it all.” Though i commute to work and ride around town by bike, i’m not a mountain biker and i’ve never been on a bike tour. So, you could say i had a lot to learn. less than a month before leaving, i fi-nalized my route and likely mileage. if all

went well, i’d summit 53 peaks in 48 days, ascending 150,000 vertical feet. Starting from my house and biking to the trailheads would be at least 1,500 miles, maybe even 1,800 miles. even with light camping gear, my bike trailer with all of my gear would be a 60-pound sledge. With only a rough sense of whether this thing could actually work, i set out on July 24, 2009. During the first week, things went smoothly. i summited Grays and Torreys

Peaks, mounts bierstadt and evans, mounts lincoln, Democrat, and bross, and quan-dary Peak. most days i got up before 6 a.m., reached my first summit by 9 or 10 a.m., de-scended, then biked to the next trailhead (or near it) with time to shop for food (often at gas stations). i ate a lot—but never enough—and slept nine or more hours a night. it was sometimes stormy, but not while i was above tree line. The only glitch—on my first day out—was when my bike trailer bent my rear derailleur. i dropped in on a bike mechanic in idaho Springs who straightened me out, and i was on my way. Or was i? after climbing Vail and Shrine moun-tain Passes i descended a dirt road toward redcliff. The road was narrow. When a car ahead of me stopped to take flower photos, i had to stop, too. and my bike trailer fell side-

ways and bent my derailleur hanger again. This time it was worse. i coasted to redcliff, but couldn’t pedal. Fortunately, my brother, nate, arrived the next day and a mechanic in avon fixed me up with a new derailleur. Unfortunately, i would get to know many more bike mechanics as the trip continued. Then came the first real weather of the trip. as nate and i climbed mount of the Holy Cross, a big thunderstorm with hail and lightning dropped down. We retreated

and i made a fateful decision, to keep rid-ing toward leadville and the next peak—mount Sherman. There would be no Holy Cross that day. Since getting stormed off peaks was likely to happen again, i thought maybe my adventure needed to change: perhaps it should be about getting to trail heads and making a good attempt at summiting. Then, nate and i topped mounts Sher-man and elbert. back at it again by myself, i did two more Sawatch range peaks—mount massive and la Plata Peak—before biking over independence Pass into aspen and the elk range. many peaks in the elks are rotten rock; hand holds can break loose and rock falls from climbers above. maybe not the best place for humans, it’s a good place for moun-

Bike ‘n’ HikeBy Bart miller

since getting stormed

off peaks was likely to

happen again, i thought

maybe my adventure

needed to change: per-

haps it should be about

getting to trailheads

and making a good

attempt at summiting.


tain goats, and i saw many. The weather was mostly cooperative, but i returned from a stormy ascent of Pyramid Peak to find my tent blown over and my clothes soaked. but there are laundromats in aspen, next door to caviar stores, of course. The elks were incred-ible, full of challenging peaks and great days. i rode back over independence Pass (the only place i’ve ever seen marmot and pika road kill) to the rest of the Sawatch range. i was able to do several multiple-peak days—a must if i was to stay on sched-ule. and, best of all, i managed to squeeze in my “miss.” ever since having to turn back on Holy Cross, it had been nagging me, like a mosquito bite. after climbing mount Princeton with my sister Carol, i biked (without my trailer) back to leadville, over Tennessee Pass, and down to minturn for the night. Then, it

was up Holy Cross, followed by a ride back south to buena Vista—a satisfying 150-mile detour, well worth it, to get rid of the itch. after the Sawatch, it was over mon-arch Pass and into my favorite 10 days of the trip—the San Juans. if you saw the range for the first time, you’d swear there were 100 fourteeners. in reality, only 13 reach above 14,000 feet, but many others get mighty close. it’s a remote part of the state with dif-ficult passes (both paved and dirt) and quiet

trails. One night i saw so many stars i couldn’t pick out any familiar constellations. i reached my farthest point west on el Diente Peak and my farthest point south in Durango. Then, it was over Wolf Creek Pass with free gorp at the top from a fellow biker. The days were getting shorter and fall colors came to the tundra. i hiked up rough roads to trailheads in the southern and north-ern Sangre de Cristo range. On a crowded, labor Day weekend it snowed above 12,500 feet and made the Crestone, Kit Carson and Humboldt Peaks much more difficult. Finally, i climbed Pikes Peak and followed it with a long ride home to boulder. i went back to work for a few days then rode and hiked longs Peak from my house with bill briggs, a friend who also roped up with me on the traverse of the maroon bells. by the end, i was one day behind

schedule and skipped only the fourteener i had never intended to climb—mount Cule-bra. it’s privately owned; the owners charge a fee to climb. i think you “earn” peaks with planning and sweat, not money. So, it wasn’t part of my trip. This summer's adventure reinforced my love of hiking in Colorado and helped satisfy an evolving goal of using less fossil fuel as i travel about the planet. i also re-discovered how nice people can be when you're not locked in the bubble of an automobile. On the road, when the shoulders on the highway were narrow, it was clearly unsafe to ride, but i did it anyway. but, in other moments on the trail and road, people came out of the woodwork and offered their campsites, food, beer, stories, and advice. There's plenty of good out there if you're open to it. △

July 24 - Departed BoulderJuly 25 - Grays and Torreys (1-2)July 26 - Evans and Bierstadt (3-4)July 27 - Lincoln, Democrat, and Bross (5-7)July 28 - Quandary (8)July 29 - Derailleur fixedJuly 30 - Attempted Holy Cross. Turned back by lightning. July 31 - Sherman (9)Aug 1 - Elbert (10)Aug 2 - Massive (11)Aug 3 - La Plata (12)Aug 4 - Castle Peak (13)Aug 5 - North and South Maroon Peaks (14-15)Aug 6 - Pyramid (16)Aug 7 - Snowmass (17)Aug 8 - Capitol (18)Aug 10 - Oxford, Belford, and Missouri (19-21)Aug 11 - Huron (22)Aug 12 - Harvard and Columbia (23-24)Aug 13 - Yale (25)Aug 14 - Rest DayAug 15 - Princeton (26)Aug 16 - Back to Holy Cross (27)Aug 17 - Antero (28)Aug 18 - Tabeguache Peak and Shavano (29-30)Aug 20 - San Luis Peak (31)

Aug 21 - Redcloud, Sunshine, and Handies (32-34)Aug 22 - Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre (35-36)Aug 24 - Sneffels (37)Aug 25 - Wilson Peak and Mount Wilson (38-39)Aug 26 - El Diente (40)Aug 28 - Sunlight, N. Eolus, Windom (41-43)Aug 29-31 - Hiking/riding from the San Juans to the SangresSept 1 - Ellingwood and Blanca (44-45)Sept 2 - Little Bear (46)Sept 3 - Lindsey (47)Sept 5 - Humboldt, Kit Carson, Crestone Peak (48-50)Sept 6 - Crestone Needle (51)Sept 8 - Pikes Peak (52)Sept 9 - Arrived homeSept 10-11 - Back to workSept 13 - Longs Peak (53)

Bart Miller is the Water Program Director at Western Resource Advocates, a nonprofit orga-nization that collaborates with other groups—including the Colorado Mountain Club—to protect the West’s land, air, and water.

▲ Traveling light was essential. Bart used the new technology of his iPhone to record his low-tech adventure. From left to right: on the trail to Mount Sneffles; the bike's highest point; near the summit of Wetterhorn Peak; sunrise on Crestone Needle; near the summit of El Diente Peak.


VECTOR FREEBIES: Fingerprints

Climb enough mountains and you will inevitably see some remarkable things. Peak-bagger extraordinaire Teresa Ger-gen (the fifth person to climb Colorado’s 800 highest peaks) certainly climbs enough mountains, and i was fortunate to join her last summer for a few peaks-less-traveled in Wyoming's Wind river range. and, yes, we saw some remarkable things. The remote Winds are best known for Gannett Peak, one of the country's more difficult state highpoints. Typically requir-ing a two-day backpack in (and out), this mountain is often the sole goal of climbers who venture into the wilderness areas that surround it. but, for those who can see be-yond 13,804 feet, the range is popu-lated with an impressive collection of other peaks—rocky spires to chal-lenge climbers' strength, skill, and courage. it was on one of these moun-tains, Twin Peaks, where we were re-minded that peak-bagging isn't new, and that remote mountains like these have been beckoning climbers for a long time. There on the summit, in a heavy, galvanized steel canister, we found the original summit register—a Colorado mountain Club regis-ter—placed during the mountain’s first ascent, 79 years ago. That first climb (or more accu-rately, the first two climbs) occurred during the club's 1930 outing, ad-vertised rather emphatically by Carl blaurock: “Your committee is work-ing hard and conscientiously to make this an outstanding outing, and you will be the loser if you are not 'among those present’” (Trail & Timberline, #138, april 1930). evidently the advertising threat worked, as 46 people attended the outing. in addition to participants from Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins, boulder, and leadville, dedi-cated folk came from new York, Chicago, Westminster (maryland), nashville, boston, and Jackson (michigan). bear in mind that this was 1930, and travel to this area of Wyo-ming presented its own challenges ▶

Out of the library, on to the remarkable discovery. The first thing you notice about the old register is the address, or lack thereof, on the cover sheet. as with current registers

maintained by the CmC, the first page asks that it be returned to the club when full. in 1930, mailmen must have been expected to work a bit harder, for there was no phone number, and the address is simply "Colo-

rado mountain Club, Denver, Colorado." The register may also hint at how mis-takes, made long ago, can be carried forward for years. Twin Peaks, as the name implies, has two similar summits. The guidebooks we

had didn't hesitate in indicating the north-east summit to be higher. The northeast summit is marked on the 1991 Gannett Peak quad map with a spot elevation of 13,185 feet; however, the southwest sum-mit shows the same number of closed contours, though no spot elevation is given. We carried a sight level, climbed to both summits, and were unable to determine which one was highest. The cover sheet of the 1930 register gives the summit elevation as 13,400 feet, much higher than the current rec-ognized elevation, and higher than any-one would be likely to estimate from the modern elevations of

the surrounding peaks. in his review of the trip for Trail & Timberline (#144, October 1930), Carl blaurock states that they “placed a register on the highest summit” and later “proceeded up to the top of the second

A Touch of hisToryBy Jim rickard

▶ a ten-mile motor-trek eastward from Pinedale brought us to the swamps

which border the first foothills of the Wind river range. Here the lightheart-

ed Lizzies came into their own, for they could dance merrily over the spongy

terrain and then look back with just a tinge of satisfied malice at the proud,

heavy straight-eights bogged down to their very eyebrows in slush and gumbo.– G. Wakeham (Trail & Timberline, #145, november 1930)


peak,” with no indication of misgivings. Furthermore, notes left by the 1931 third ascent party indicate that they climbed over “the spire to the southwest,” with no suggestion that they consid-ered the possibility it was the higher summit. Finally, and of most interest, the first entries in this register (see photograph) read like a who's who of Colorado climbers. The next entry, from July 30, 1931, begins with a lament: “after making 6 first ascents from our camp south west of here we were very disappointed on our last day to make a second and a miserable third ascent on this peak . . .” Others would climb and sign the register on Twin Peaks in 1940, then 1960, and then the entries become regular in com-parison. Still, the register of some 12, single-sided sheets remains nearly half empty. The five climbers in this party (Teresa Gergen, adam mcFarren, Dominic meiser, Sarah meiser, and Jim rick-ard) proudly added their names to this piece of history. △

Sunlight strikes the southwest (Left) and northeast summits of Twin Peaks. Adam McFarren ▲▲ The first page of the register atop Twin Peaks in Wyoming contains the signatures of some of Colorado's pioneer climbers, including Henry Buchtel, Dave Lavender, Dudley Smith (these three made the first ascent on August 10, 1930), Charles Kendrick, Carl Blaurock, Dwight Lavender, Forrest Greenfield, W. Scott Hall, and Wm. Smedley. Teresa Gergen

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i didn’t start out trying to

climb the fourteeners. Like

many folks i know, when i

first moved to Colorado in

1985 i just wanted to ex-

plore this incredible state.

every valley, every ba-

sin, every mountain range

beckoned with tantalizing

views. it was only natu-

ral that i should continue

to climb higher. and that

meant summiting peaks—

peaks over 14,000 feet.

it was on one of my early climbs that i first encountered a strange breed of hiker. They came to the top, signed in, and quickly left for the next peak. i was baffled and, i must admit, a bit offended. They didn’t even stop to enjoy the view! How could they? Didn’t they realize this was hallowed ground? it seemed sacrilegious. i made a vow to myself: i would pur-posely split up groups of fourteeners and climb them one at a time. i would come back in different years and in different seasons and from different angles. and i would spend as much time on top as i could, soaking in the views. These early vows provided me with some of my most memorable climbs: a ski climb of mt. elbert in two feet of powder; a Fourth of July climb of mt. Sneffels; a cooked breakfast on top of San luis Peak. not many people understood. When asked why we climbed mt. Wilson and not el Diente, my climbing partner shrugged her shoulders and said, “He’s saving them.” like most of my friends, she started the peaks long after i did and finished long before. but i will never forget the climb of el Diente and the lazy soak in Dunton Hot Springs a year later. nor will i forget the five trips to the blanca massif, the two-hour naps on top of la Plata and South maroon, and the sum-mers i took off to backpack the Continental Divide Trail and catch peaks along the way.

sAving The fourTeenersBy alan spriggs

as the years wore on, though, i noticed a struggle. i found myself more and more focused on finishing the peaks. and i dis-covered that i, too, was capable of alienating others in my quest for the summit. Had i become a peak bagger? Was i just like one of them? When i stepped foot on the summit of Wetterhorn Peak in July of 2005, a wave of jubilation swept over me. after twenty years i had done it. i climbed the 14ers! Or perhaps, suggested another voice in-side of me, I had simply run out of peaks to save. △▲ Taking a cat nap with the dog atop Tabeguache Peak.▼ Jumping for joy atop the state's highest peak, Mount Elbert.


blue skiesThere will be

tomorrow...

but we still need your help today.

In these tough financial times, our monthly giving program makes it easy to support the CMC beyond your regular membership dues.

Sign up today by visiting www.cmc.org/support, or call Sarah Gorecki at 303.996.2752 to enroll.


in the history of Colorado moun-taineering, agnes Vaille’s death on longs Peak in January

1925 has become a dividing line of sorts—signaling an end to the early, innocent years of the Colorado mountain Club. Though many others had perished in the mountains—longs Peak alone had already claimed about 10 lives by 1925—Vaille’s death by exposure was particularly notable due to her wide social, civic, and family circles. Vaille was the daughter of F. O. Vaille who installed Denver’s first phone system in the 1880s, and made a fortune as a result. While agnes was a beneficiary of these ef-forts, she was hardly soft. born in Denver in

1890, she attended the Wolcott School for Girls, which had been founded by her aunt, anna Wolcott. after attending Smith College in massachusetts, she returned to Denver in may 1912 and became one of the earliest members of the fledgling Colorado moun-tain Club. Her zest for the high country was legendary, branding her as one of the club’s “fire-eaters.” Her organizational skills were also extraordinary, and she was soon lead-ing CmC trips and participating on various committees. She was elected to the board of Directors in 1922. ironically, in December 1923 Vaille was appointed chairman of the local Winter Walks Committee. Despite Vaille’s obvious enthusiasm for life, she is generally viewed through a prism

created by the manner of her death. However, recent discoveries have helped shed light on some of the activities of her fi-nal year, and may help answer the question of why she was on longs Peak that January, 85 years ago. Vaille’s own photo scrapbook is most revealing, particularly in regard to her out-door activities. She was out nearly every other weekend, winter and summer. Was her very comfort and familiarity with the mountains a factor in her undoing? One thing is certain: Vaille’s final year, 1924, was a busy one. The year began with a cold snap. The new Year’s Day edition of the rocky moun-tain news reported the Pikes Peak adaman

aGNes VaiLLe Dies iN BLizzarD oN LoNGs PeaKDeNVer, CoLo., TuesDay, JaNuary 12, 1925

By WooDy smiTH


Club “braved a temperature of 20 degrees below zero to reach the top of the peak.” On Friday, January 11, 1924—one year to the day before she would begin her final climb on longs Peak with Walter Kiener—agnes Vaille attended the monthly meeting of the CmC’s board of directors. One item of business was a request by director roger Toll to fund the building of a mountain shelter, most likely in rocky mountain na-tional Park, of which he was the superinten-dent. in the post-mortem examination that followed Vaille’s death, it was thought that a shelter may have saved her life. The matter was referred to the treasurer and continued until the next meeting, but

the topic was not reintroduced until the end of the year. When the meeting adjourned that evening—“long after dinner time!”—Vaille had less than one year and twelve hours to live. The early winter months of 1924 did not curtail Vaille’s outdoor pursuits. most weekends she was on ski and snowshoe trips, or hikes—often with the club, though sometimes alone. in early February, Vaille spent the weekend at the brook Forest inn—still in operation—west of evergreen. a week later she attended a club scouting trip to Stapps lake lodge near Ward. Vaille finished out the month with a trip to Wellington lake

and lost Park, southwest of Denver. On march 1 and 2, 1924, Vaille re-turned to Stapps lake with the club for more winter fun. On march 8 and 9, ag-nes apparently took a solo overnight ski trip to timberline on Grays Peak. Her photos of snowy trees and trail show no one else. The following weekend Vaille and the CmC revisited a favorite winter haunt, the Fern lake lodge in rocky mountain national Park, for the club’s ninth annual Winter Outing. “The mountains were banked on an average ten feet deep and the great pines groaned as though unable any longer to hold their burden,” wrote Fred morath. “and constantly there fell snow, and more snow.” morath also reported that elinor ep-pich was “a close second” in the “girls ski race. …Those week-end ski trips,” he wrote “…have made terrors out of timid ones.” but Henry Toll “shook the faith of a feminine cargo in his ability as a toboggan driver by rudely unloading his passengers in a ten foot snowbank.” in late april, Vaille and one compan-ion, possibly her niece Polly bouck, made a

boot (and snowshoe) hike to Gem lake near estes Park. in early may the pair took a trip to the lower reaches of a still snowy mt. Columbia, near buena Vista. The next weekend it was the beaver brook Trail west of Denver. On may 17 and 18 Vaille and one or two friends made an early season climb of “Silver Plume Peak.” Vaille’s summer climbing season began on the weekend of June 21-22, with a trip to mounts logan and epaulet, just south of mt. evans. also along were Carl blaurock and Hermann and elmina buhl. On Saturday, July 5, Vaille climbed her first known 14,000-foot summits of the year, San luis and Stewart Peaks. (Govern-

◀ A photo of Longs Peak's East Face by Agnes Vaille on November 1 or 2, 1924. Inset: Conditions were challenging on a November 15-16, 1924, trip to Longs. ▶ Agnes Vaille (left), Walter Kiener, and Hermann Buhl sit atop Mount Evans on October 12, 1924.▶▶ Agnes Vaille (left), two unidentified women, and Walter Kiener on their way to Longs Peak in November 1924.

ment surveys in the 1950s demoted Stewart to 13,983.) This was no easy feat since the peaks are separated by two and a half miles and a nearly 900-foot drop. The trip also pres-ents a mini-mystery. agnes signed in solo on both registers. Since the peaks, located north of Creede, are far from anything or anyone, it can only be speculated as to what brought Vaille alone to such out-of-the-way summits on a holiday weekend. meanwhile, a newcomer to the club named Walter Kiener was climbing in the San Juan mountains in southwest Colorado. according to author James Pickering, Kiener was born in Switzerland in 1900. in 1923, af-ter an argument with his father, Kiener left the family sausage-making business, eventually ending up in Denver. He soon “went to work as a butcher, and almost immediately became involved with the Colorado mountain Club” (Colorado Heritage, Vol. 1, 1990). Once a member, Kiener gravitated to-ward the club’s admired elite. it seems he was received with mixed reviews. nonethe-less, this did not quell his swelling admira-tion upon finding a scrap of paper left in

redcloud Peak’s summit register by Vaille and mary Cronin during their epic 1923 San Juan tramp. One year later, Kiener and companion added their scrap of paper to the register canister. in the best english he could mus-ter, Kiener wrote:“Redcloud Peak, July 17, 1924.(A most wonderful day.) We came over Sun-shine Peak straight up from Sherman. We have a very good time and besides our great Colorado we admire greatly that splendid mountaineer-ing spirit of two Colorado girls who preceded [sic] us on this peak…Long may live Colorado and his Mountain Club!

– Walter Kiener.”

By WooDy smiTH


While the entry is open to interpreta-tion it could be argued that Kiener was at least in awe of the “two Colorado girls.” Judging from subsequent events—Cronin attended none of the longs Peak climbs—she, at least, did not seem to return Kiener’s admiration. Three days after Kiener’s entry, Vaille, Cronin, and possibly elinor eppich climbed longs Peak. eerily, on this trip, Vaille took a sweeping photograph of the north face of longs Peak—from the Diamond nearly to the Keyhole—including the very spot where she would freeze to death six months hence. a week later, on July 25, Vaille and some friends visited The bishop, a technical climb southwest of Denver. The next day, Vaille and party were off for a weekend in

the indian Peaks, west of boulder. Climbs included navajo, arikaree and Kiowa Peaks. in early august, Vaille went east to visit relatives. Though she was from Denver, her father Frederick was from massachusetts. Her 10-day visit to the family manse in marion, mass.—on buzzard’s bay—includ-ed sailing, swimming, and croquet. Within a week of her return to Colo-rado, Vaille was back in the mountains—on a CmC weekend trip to James Peak. On august 23 and 24, Vaille returned to rocky mountain national Park on a club climb of mt. meeker. For good measure, she and mary Cronin led an impromptu party across the saddle and over to longs—again. but there were other mountains. On labor Day weekend of 1924, Vaille and the club visited the Sangre de Cristo range for climbs of Kit Carson and the Cre-stone Peaks. The outing was led by bill ervin and Henry buchtel. Vaille apparently set up quarters in a miner’s abandoned log home—one cabin photographed with a claimant’s

backpack nearby is captioned “Villa agnes.” Vaille finished out the summer with an-other solo hike—a return to mount Colum-bia, where this time she did reach the sum-mit. Since the register was full, she signed in on a scrap of paper. The date was September 7, 1924. On Friday, September 12, Vaille attend-ed a CmC director’s meeting. One proposal that evening was in favor of changing the names Crestone needle and north maroon Peak to “mallory Peak” and “mt. irvine” for the two mount everest explorers who had disappeared the previous June. although the board “expressed approval,” the matter was later dropped. The last weekend of September marked Vaille’s first trip of the fall season. She and at

least one companion returned to rocky mountain national Park, visiting the area north of longs Peak. They hiked to bear and Fern lakes, and climbed Flattop mountain and Taylor Peak. On October 12, Vaille, along with Kiener, determined to make the first winter ascent of longs Peak’s forbidding east Face. The moment, as told by Kiener, was recounted by James Pickering: “Our inclination to

climb the east Face of longs Peak came… while resting on the summit (of mt. evans), we

looked off north and beholding the grand appearance of longs, we resolved to climb its east Face in the near future….” The next few months were punctuated by the duo's attempts on the peak. The climbs took place on the weekends of november 1 and 15. each tactical retreat only increased Vaille's determination. She returned to the longs Peak vicinity the weekend of Decem-ber 6 for a ski trip to mills Glacier. On Sunday December 14, Vaille led CmC Trip #400—her last—which was a ski outing to the brook Forest inn and Cub Creek. ironically the trip was only a partial success, due to lack of snow. Just before Christmas, Vaille attended to a small piece of business for the Chamber of Commerce, of which she was the secre-tary: recruiting members to a committee on oil shale development. Her letter to Frank Wadleigh of the Denver and rio Grande railroad, dated December 23, 1924, is her last known correspondence. On Thursday January 8, 1925, less than

48 hours before she was to set out on her fateful trip, the rocky mountain news re-ported that “miss agnes Vaille entertained the members of the Denver altrusa club, an organization of business and profes-sional women, at her home, 1401 Franklin Street…Following dinner a short business meeting was held. ...(Plus) miss elizabeth Kelly told in an interesting manner of her trip through the Orient.” On Saturday, January 10, Vaille, Kiener and elinor eppich set off on their final fate-ful attempt of the east Face. This time even nature seemed to be warning them. “We left Denver via Sheridan boule-vard…” wrote eppich. “Just beyond the edge of town we skidded on a piece of ice, turned completely around so that we were headed back to town. However, we turned around again, and went on. agnes was driving.” but, fate was in charge. The party pressed on, and despite hav-ing to abandon their vehicle below the usual starting point due to snow drifts, they did reach the Timberline Cabin sometime after midnight, where they spent the remainder of a cold, cold night. “The next morning the sun was shining but it was very cold and the wind was cruel,” wrote eppich. “i asked agnes something about their going and she said ‘i don’t think we’ll go.’ i went outside for a few minutes, and when i came back, here were Walter Kiener and agnes all ready to take off.” The question posed by longs Peak rang-er Jack moomaw, who helped recover the body, was “…Why an experienced mountain climber like agnes Vaille would have insisted on continuing the climb after weather got rough….” Perhaps one overlooked aspect of ag-nes’ decision was an unwillingness to show weakness to Kiener—to disillusion him. Kiener himself told of “the reputation that agnes enjoyed in the Colo. mt. Club as the equal of any member, man or woman, for daring endurance, and other qualifications of an able mountain climber….” Did pride help push Vaille out the door that day? Wrote eppich in 1963: “Perhaps this was (the) real tragedy, in that, given the cir-cumstances…the outcome was inherent in the characters of the two people.” △

The author would like to acknowledge the generosity and assistance of Giles Toll on the research for this article, as well as the support of the Colorado Historical Society.

▲ On December 6 and 7, Vaille visited Mills Glacier near Longs Peak. It would turn out to be one of her last trips.


PebblesColorado has big views. Whether you’re atop a magnificent peak, enveloped by

an aspen grove, or touring through one of our state’s celebrated natural monuments—places with striking, majestic scenery like our national parks and wilderness areas—the landscape is almost certain to elicit ar-dent emotions. in fact, at the peak of the development of the national Park System, artists were commissioned to help build roads that offered views akin to art. but the greatest and grandest of nature is, as we know, composed of much smaller ingredients. it’s just that we often overlook these smaller, less evident building blocks of grandeur: you might find it in a fleet-ing moment only when conditions allow; it might be underfoot. You might recognize it in the delicate dewdrop only if you’re look-ing for the flower petal; it might depend on how you define beauty. Whatever the case, beauty is elemental to nature, and there for the looking. The ability to appreciate the intrinsic magnificence of a fragile leaf, however, can be an acquired taste—or skill. Sometimes it happens when you start to slow down, or when you’re forced to slow down by injury, age, or conviction. Then, peak bagging be-comes less important than browsing among nature’s beauty. Sometimes, browsing and bagging can go hand in hand. as a child, the mountains of new Hampshire were my track—climbing was simply a continuation of my competitive outlet. i was a runner and my mental-ity drove me to win—whether this was by crossing the finish line first, or reaching the summit before my parents did. Since then, i’ve experienced a profound shift in my attitude towards nature and—now that i’m a wiser (and perhaps less ener-getic) man—i recognize that there is no such thing as winning in nature. my passion for photography has developed and completely changed the way i travel in the backcountry. Where the park service looked to cast art be-fore the eyes of park visitors, i look to pull artistic compositions from the grand canvas of nature. i see the long walk leading to that great panorama as equally deserving of my

attention. There is much to see if you care to see it. Climbing high, hiking all day, taking calculated risks: these are all still part of what i do in the mountains, but i never for-get to look around, look down, and study the minor surroundings while on my way to that mighty vista. i’m not alone. Though their circum-stances and inspirations might vary, there are plenty of us who have found that there is something grand in recognizing the beauty of details. – CHriS CaSe

The Naturalistmaybe loving nature has to do with Dna, or maybe some of us are blessedly immersed in nature’s loving grip from the time we are tiny. i vividly remember the uphill walk home from kindergarten, California red-woods towering above me as i looked up in wonder and crunched the giant sycamore leaves with my shoes. in high school, my biology teacher took us to Yosemite insti-tute, an environmental education school in Yosemite national Park. arriving in Yosem-

recognizing the beauty of D

etailsSeeing the Peak for its


ite Valley in 1975, i knew i had arrived home—in nature. Since that moment i have been hooked on the outdoors, especially the Sierra ne-vada and rocky mountain high country. i backpacked constantly, got a job at the lo-cal mountaineering shop in San Jose, Cal., took a mountaineering course with the na-tional Outdoor leadership School, became an Outward bound instructor, and worked for Yosemite institute as an environmental educator. i was blessed with a strong athletic physique, so bagging peaks came naturally. i loved the hardcore adventures in the back-country, yet in my heart i began to feel a void that i knew needed to be filled. i remember many times climbing with various friends that would push so hard on the ascents—“to

get there before the storms,” they would al-ways say—and just as hard on the descents, for reasons i have yet to understand. it be-gan to sadden my heart when we raced by the most amazing little flowers, birds, mush-rooms and insects. more and more i found myself venturing off on slower-paced hikes, either alone or with friends who knew about the flora and fauna. When i moved to the rocky mountains and began work as a naturalist with Jefferson County Open Space, the need to bag peaks

began to fade. For the first time it felt fine to climb only halfway up a mountain if, for some reason, i got distracted by the Wilson’s warblers interacting in the willows. i had fallen in love with nature. i be-came fascinated with plant-insect relation-ships. The Colorado Hairstreak, Colorado’s state butterfly, depends on sap from gamble oak trees that grow thick in our Front range open space parks from mount Falcon to the south. blanket flowers are associated with what some refer to as the “fire moth.” The moth is perfectly camouflaged on blanket flowers and is, thus, protected from preda-tors. each of the species of yucca plant in Colorado—there are about 40 of them—teams up with and depends on its own tiny yucca moth for reproduction.

You know you are somewhere near Golden if, in late July, a rufous humming-bird shows up at your feeder. The rufous, a tiny little marvel of an athlete, migrates in early spring from South america up the north american coast toward alaska. in early summer they begin to move south again. nature motivates me to be more alive by getting me out of my small-headed self. i am humbled, inspired and invigorated by the natural world. i feel in the moment and at

peace without a need for consumer therapy. i go out into nature without expectations, yet come home relaxed, sometimes better educated, sometimes awestruck, and always more grounded. This journey literally keeps me alive. it is not that i will never climb big peaks, ski the powder, or raft a river again, it’s just that now when i do these things i will always be willing to stop, and let it in. and now, because i have spent so much time observing and learning, i can listen and know which bird is to my right, and look to see what plant is over there, and predict what insect will most likely visit it. i know that sometime around July 18, i can expect a tiny flying visitor—colored with the most amaz-ing rufous gorget—to join me in my Colo-rado native garden. – CarOl enGliSH

The Philosopheri am standing on a bridge overlooking bear Creek, listening to the gentle current gurgle beneath me, and imagining this modest stream carrying its loamy load of creatures and bouncy baggage of stuff all the way to the atlantic Ocean. The experience reminds me of a book i read as a child, Paddle to the Sea, which told the adventures of a small canoe, carved by a boy who placed it in a stream bound for the ocean.


bear Creek begins at Summit lake, be-neath mount evans, and it has already vis-ited four life zones by the time it passes this obscure bridge in an urban park just east of the town of morrison. i too have wan-dered through many habitats of those four life zones along bear Creek, mostly while looking for birds, so i feel a kinship with the stream. it has just completed a splashy, swift descent of the foothills; now it catches its breath, slackens its pace, and smooths its stride as it enters the plains and prepares to merge with the South Platte, just as i did a few weeks ago in a larger canoe. it is autumn. many are the treasures this stealthy creek has purloined from the surrounding land, none more beautiful or more vulnerable than the multi-colored

leaves. Some shimmer in the light like spar-kles in a girl’s hair, still brightly colored as they float along the surface. Others shrivel, become splotchy, and begin to disintegrate as they sink into the flow. red, yellow, brown, green—including many shades of each—even spots of black; all are beautiful in their spiraling dance. Watching them, i notice different leaves find different ways of traveling along the stream. each reminds me of different ways i have met the challenges of life’s stream.

Some rush down the center, following the main current, but these racers rarely pause to notice their surroundings or to contem-plate their journey. Others, more explor-atory, swirl with an eddy, drift by a bank, linger for a time in a backwater, or stall on a snag. Still others plunge to the depths, often catching hold of something that temporarily arrests their inevitable recession. Taking home a cottonwood leaf to ex-amine under a magnifying lens, i find com-mon patterns in the skin of the leaf and in the skin of my own arm, patterns that re-semble plots of fenced land as seen from an airplane. Were i able to look even deeper, with the aid of an electron microscope, i would find a cellular structure that, if placed beside a specimen of my own cells, would

be difficult to distinguish. Yes, the leaf is dis-tinct in employing chlorophylls, its tissues are reinforced with lignin, and it depends on chloroplasts to manufacture proteins, but both i and the leaf have many similar organ-elles in our cells, including ribosomes, mi-tochondria, rough and smooth endoplasmic reticula, and Golgi bodies, not to mention various vesicles, membranes, microtubules, a nucleus, and Dna. and what of those tasks leaves and humans both perform during our brief so-

journs? We humans would seem to be the greater players on life’s vainglorious stage. but consider how many of our roles are only more elaborate, perhaps frivolous, ways of growing, metabolizing, reproducing, and dying. and consider how much of what leaves and we do is programmed by our genes, and how many of those genes we and they share in common. leaves are us. We are leaves. not precisely or completely, of course, but in the holistic sense that all living forms overlap and interrelate. We all descend from bacteria, in the short run of a few billion years, and, in the longer term, from exploding supernovae and from the original big bang itself. The leaves and i are on a journey. it’s called life. life flows like a stream, and carries

with it elements of all that is and all that ever was. The leaves floating beneath the bridge at bear Creek lake Park are in the last stages of their journey, at least in their present form. alas, so am i. That may seem sad, in a sen-timental way. Yet, from a larger perspective, how uplifting and beautiful it is to see one’s own puny self as a part of that flowing, end-less stream of life. – miKe FOSTer △

Photos by Chris Case


Vietnam: Cultural Experiences and BicyclingFebruary 19 – March 1, 2010$2200 for 8 travelers ($1960 for 10 – 11 or $1866 for 12 – 15)This 11-day trip with Bea Slingsby starts in Ha-noi in northern Veitnam. We will spend two days in Ha Long (which translates as “dragon de-scending”) Bay. The craggy karst limestone tow-ers rise hundreds of feet from the green waters of the bay. We’ll board a comfortable Chinese-style junk with private facilities for an overnight cruise around 3,000 islands rising steeply from the bay. There will be stops at various grottos and caves and an opportunity to kayak here in this World Heritage site. Then, from Hanoi we fly to Hue to explore and get ready to cycle. Our route goes south through fishing and agricultural villages, to Hoi An. Since this leg is 89 miles long, most of us will get picked up part way through by the support van, which will always accompany us. We have a second night in Hoi An as there is much to see and experience. There is also the option for more cycling. On day seven, we will continue bicycling to Quang Ngai on country roads. Day eight, we will cycle from Tam Quan to Qui Nhon with ex-cellent coastal views. There will be two climbs of about 10% grade, but the van is available. From there, we can ride in the van to Dieu, then cycle a delightful quiet road up a gentle valley and down to Chi Thanh, then finish the leg by driv-ing into the city. We will spend day 10 in Nha Trang, where you may opt to take a boat trip to surrounding islands, visit a fishing village, and return in Viet-namese round boats. On day 11, we will fly to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), then home. The trip price includes two internal air flights, tips, all meals except two, snacks, bottled water, knowledgeable English-speaking guides, van support, bike mechanic, daily route maps, and a high standard of accommodations in French Colonial hotels or beach-front resorts. Our aver-age daily distance by bicycle is 43 miles, while at a latitude similar to that of the Caribbean Sea. Not included in the trip are: bicycle rental at a price of $140 (hybrid Trek 7.5 in a wide range

CMC Adventure Travel

of sizes), a single room supplement of $395, air-port taxes, visa, alcoholic beverages, and sight-seeing expenses other than those specified. Contact trip leader, Bea Slingsby, for fur-ther information and an application at (303) 422-3728, or [email protected].

Yellowstone in WinterFebruary 3 – 8, 2010Cost $1020 – 1166 (depending on accommodation level)Steaming geysers, bison, elk, deer, wolves, and other wildlife are all part of the experience of visiting Yellowstone National Park in the winter. Skiers, snowshoers, nature lovers and photog-raphers will enjoy the convenient trails lead-ing directly from the lodge to the geysers and waterfalls. The trip includes round-trip bus and snow coach transportation between Denver and Yellowstone, a one-night stay in a motel, 3 full days and 4 nights in the Old Faithful area of the park, snow coach drop-off fees, happy hours, and several meals (4 breakfasts, 1 lunch, and 3 buffet dinners). We depart Denver by bus on Wednesday morning, February 3, stay overnight in a motel in Jackson, arriving in Yellowstone on Thursday afternoon. We leave Yellowstone and return to Denver on Monday, February 8, 2010. See website or contact leaders for full details. Trip Leaders are Polly Hays (303-964-8225 or [email protected]) and Joan Rossiter (303-695-0389, [email protected])

Death Valley Hiking February 28 – March 5, 2010 $998 Snow-capped mountains, sand dunes, castles, abandoned mines, unique wildlife, canyons, lay-ers of multi-colored rocks, and the world’s low-est golf course! Temperatures will be a moder-ate 65 to 75 degrees. Springtime is Death Valley National Park’s most colorful time of year. Not only will you hike (several A or moderate B hikes) through the one-of-a-kind terrain that only Death Valley can offer, but you will also visit Scotty’s famous

castle, explore the remains of abandoned mines, see unique wildlife, and more. Massage therapy, horseback riding, tennis, golf, and horse-drawn carriage rides are only a few of the many enjoy-able options that can be enjoyed during your spare time. Price includes transportation between the Las Vegas airport and the park, lodging at the newly renovated Furnace Creek Ranch (a com-plete resort complex in the heart of the park), meals, admission to Scotty’s Castle, and a final group dinner. For details, please visit www.cmc.org/AT or contact Terry Hardie at [email protected] or Sharon Silva at [email protected].

Barrier Islands - GeorgiaApril 3 – 11, 2010$1,107 (does not include airfare)The United States has some beautiful places to visit and this area is high on the list. We will first visit St. Simon Island where we will bicycle and stroll beneath centuries-old oaks draped in Spanish moss, visit interesting historic sites and walk on sandy beaches. We will explore the marsh by kayak learning about wading birds, crabs and other water creatures. Jekyll Island, founded in 1886, was the win-ter retreat for some of America’s most elite fami-lies, including the likes of Astor, Rockefeller, and Vanderbilt. For part of the day we will visit some of their restored residences in the Jekyll Island Club National Historic Landmark District and also spend time bicycling around the island. Sapelo, reached only by ferry, is another island where we can see virtually every facet of a barrier island’s natural community. A guided tour will highlight the African-American commu-nity of Hog Hammock, University of Georgia’s Marine Institute, the beautiful Reynolds Man-sion, and a working lighthouse built in 1820. Another stop on our tour will be in Savan-nah, a few miles from the islands. Here you will be taken back to a time of opulent mansions, moss draped oaks and impressive architecture. Enjoy Savannah’s southern hospitality that has been offered since the 1700s. For more information, contact Betsy Weit-kamp at 303-722-1656 or [email protected].

For your benefit and enjoyment, the following trips have been reviewed and approved by the Adventure Travel Committee and are officially sanctioned by the Colorado Mountain Club.

Visit www.cmc.org/at for more detailed itineraries and registration forms.


Best of the Grand Canyon – Colorado River Raft & HikeApril 10 – 22, 2010$4,075 (Limit 18)Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, this unique trip to the Grand Canyon offers partici-pants the opportunity to experience this World Heritage Site on a motorized raft for 188 miles through the best of the canyon. We will depart from the historic Lee's Ferry and end with a he-licopter ride from Whitmore Wash and a plane flight back to the start. It is especially ideal for those who would like to hike in areas which can be reached only from the river, and those who have always wanted to experience the canyon but who do not wish to make the seven-mile, 4,500-foot trek on foot. Our outfitter, Hatch River Expeditions, has been guiding river trips through the canyon for over 70 years. We will have three guides and 20 participants on two 35-foot S-rig boats running fuel-efficient and quiet 4-stroke outboard en-gines. The average motorized raft trip through the Grand Canyon runs seven days, so this 12 day trip will have plenty of opportunities for hiking. They offer us daily guided hikes at two or three hiking levels, or one may choose to rest in camp. There are several opportunities for point-to-point hikes where we may hike from one drainage to the next and the raft will pick us up later in the day. The deposit is $300. Please visit www.cmc.org/AT for cancellation policy, payment sched-ule, and additional information, and to call lead-ers for availability. Register with leaders Blake Clark or Rosemary Burbank at (303) 871-0379 or [email protected]

ScotlandWest Highland Way and Ben NevisMay 13 – 25, 2010$2,335 (does not include airfare)We'll walk for 82 miles along lochs, waterfalls, and craggy mountains on Scotland's spectacular West Highland Way. Carry only what you need for a day hike on this fully supported trek. Daily mileage ranges from 9 to 14 miles for the seven day trip. At the end of the trek, weather permit-ting, we will ascend Ben Nevis (4,409 feet), the highest point of the British Isles. Short excursions are planned in Edinburgh and Sterling en route to the trek starting point. We'll visit Edinburgh Castle (built around 600 A.D.) and the William Wallace Monument. Before leaving Scotland, we’ll visit the Isle of Skye to see the Armadale Gardens. We'll also visit the Eilean Donan Castle, featured in many movies, and have lunch at Kinloch, a Scottish manor house.

Price includes 11 nights lodging in small ho-tels and inns, with breakfasts included. All lunches are included except for three travel days. Dinners will be included except for two each at the begin-ning and end of the trip. Price includes ground transfers to and from the Edinburgh Airport; Edinburgh to Drymen to start the trek; Fort Wil-liam back to Edinburgh; baggage transfers during the trek; ferry and bus transportation on activity days; admission to the mentioned cultural sites; CMC fee; and partial leader reimbursement. Price does not include airfare to Edinburgh, but leaders will assist participants with scheduling. To obtain the trip application packet, con-tact Steve at [email protected] or Linda at [email protected]. No phone calls please.

Moab Mountain Bike and Hike May 20 – 23, 2010$275 Before March 1Our adventure will be based near Moab. We’ll explore the famous mountain biking and hik-ing trails in the Moab area, and in Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. We will ride (and hike) with groups of various sizes and abilities for four days of adventure in this amazing des-ert wonderland. A favorite for biking or hiking is the seldom traveled Hidden Canyon trail, with its prolific Ana-sazi art and hunting ruins. Included will be savory foods prepared by experienced, desert gourmet chefs. Also included are camping fees, all your water needs, and sanolets. You will also receive a t-shirt custom designed for this year’s adventure. A large campfire with live music, drum circles, sweat lodge, desert croquet and other games and group activities round out the after-noon and evening fun. You provide your own transportation to and from the rides and hikes which are accessible with any automobile. You also need to bring your own camping gear and bike (if you ride) or rent one in Moab. Carpool-ing is encouraged. There are rides and hikes suited for beginning to advanced riders of all ages. Not included: transportation to Moab, bike rental if needed. Price increases are as fol-lows: March 2-April 10, $300; April 11-May 10, $325; after May 10, $350. Contact Janet Farrar at [email protected] or 303-933-3066.

Peru: Huayhuash Trek May 29 – June 18, 2010$1,950Trek in the rugged and remote Cordillera Huay-huash in northern Peru, starting with a city tour in Lima, and then a bus ride north to Huaraz. There, we will do a couple of day hikes before

starting out on the 14-day loop trek in the stun-ning Cordillera Huayhuash. This supported trek will take us high into the Andes, skirting peaks over 17,000 feet, visiting high lakes and hiking over passes above 14,000 feet. We will circum-navigate Nevado Yerupaja: At 21,560 feet, it is the world’s second highest tropical mountain. The trip carries a “C” classification for its high elevation and rugged trails. Not included in the trip cost are airfare to Lima, travel insurance, several meals, guide tips or personal spending money. For more information, contact Janet Far-rar at [email protected] or 303-933-3066.

Montenegro with RadaJune 7 – 22, 2010$2,151 (does not include airfare)Rada Perovic, born in Montenegro and now residing in Golden, will be your host for a two week excursion to this unspoiled Mediterra-nean and mountain paradise. Montenegro, with a population of 730,000, gained independence in May 2006 and has the distinction of being one of the world’s newest countries. We will begin our journey on the coast, where beautiful beaches meet the crystal clear azure water of the Adriatic Sea. From our base in the old Medieval Town of Budva, we will explore the 15th century fortresses and other towns and quaint villages along the coast. We will hike on coastal trails, spend time on the beach and enjoy the warm hospitality of the Montenegrin people while exploring the cul-ture and the history of the region. While hiking, you will often encounter sheep herder’s settle-ments, where you will experience people who provide the friendliest hospitality on earth. We will then journey to the mountainous interior, where 7,000-foot peaks rocket up from sea level, creating stunning canyons, deep val-leys, and dense pine and fir forests surround-ing alpine lakes, known locally as “mountain eyes.” We will visit four National Parks: Lovcen, Biogradska Gora, Durmitor and Skadar Lake. In addition to the hiking excursions, there will be a two-day raft trip down the Tara River, referred to as “The Jewell of Europe.” Near the end of the trip, we will spend a night in a small village near Podgorica, where Rada’s family originated. There will be a celebration at the family’s old stone house, which dates back nearly 200 years. The cost of the trip includes all ground transportation in Montenegro, lodging, most meals, two days of rafting, guides, all park and museum fees, leader expenses, and the CMC outing fee. Final cost may vary depending on currency (Euro) exchange issues. Hikes will be 2 to 8 miles in length and gain up to 2500 feet in el-evation. This trip is limited to 10-12 participants. For more information, contact Rada Perovic at (303) 985-3263 or [email protected].


Arctic National Wildlife RefugeHiking and Rafting the Lower Kongakut RiverJune 19 – July 2, 2010$4,523 (does not include airfare)This is a special opportunity to see a part of the world that is a true wilderness. The quiet-ness offers many opportunities for sightings of wildlife: Dall sheep, grizzly bears, wolves, Arctic fox, musk ox, thousands of migrating caribou, and nesting birds on the coastal plain. Expect to see Golden eagles, peregrine falcons, loons, owls, and jaegers. And there will be a vast array of wildflowers. The Kongakut is a north-flowing river in the northeast corner of Alaska that empties into the Arctic Ocean. Our 10-day raft trip will start in the northern most Brooks Range, known as the British Mountains. Paddling north from the peaks on this clear river, we enter a region of rugged and rounded foothills with excellent views of the Brooks Range to the south and the Arctic Ocean to the north. As we enter into the Kongakut’s delta, we pick our way through a maze of river braids to a massive freshwater ice field (aufeis) acting as gates to the Arctic Ocean. Our time on the coast will give us a chance to explore old sod houses, tent rings and relics from the whaling era. Here the tundra swans nest, along with other birds. Seals can be seen on the shore-fast pack ice. We will begin with three to four layover days to explore the land of the midnight sun. On rafting days, we will travel from six to eight hours, going ashore often to explore or watch wildlife. Fishing is good and any caught can be cooked by our guides. This trip is limited to 6 CMC members (accompanied by two guides) with two rafts. Price includes flights from Fairbanks to Arc-tic Village, bush plane flight to a gravel bar by the Kongakut, flights from the Arctic Ocean to Fair-banks, camp gear, wholesome (mostly organic) meals, repair and safety equipment, all raft equip-ment including a life jacket, one medium-sized dry bag and bear spray repellent per person. Not included in price is roundtrip airfare to Fairbanks, three nights lodging and meals in Fairbanks, sleeping bag, pad, tent, rubber boots, large waterproof dry bag, or tips. Rental equipment is available for a small fee. Estimated airfare from Denver to Fairbanks is $750. Temperatures vary in the Arctic in June. It can be 60 to 80 degrees many days but when the wind comes from the north, it can drop to freezing. There may not be bugs but be pre-pared anyway. For further information and application, contact leader Bea Slingsby (this is her fourth trip to the refuge) at 303-422-3728, or [email protected]

Peru: Salcantay TrekJune 19 – July 4, 2010$1,725Trek the longer, more spectacular approach to Peru’s Machu Picchu on the Salcantay route. The trip will start in Lima with a city tour. Then we will fly to Cuzco, sacred city of the Incas, where we will visit the valley towns and attend the Inti Raymi Solstice festival on June 24 at the huge fortress of Saqsaywaman. Then, a five-day sup-ported trek will take us through rainforests up to the Salcantay Umantay pass at 14,763 feet. We will see glaciers and high peaks before arriving at Aguas Calientes, then take the bus up to Ma-chu Picchu. On our second day in Machu Picchu, we will climb the peak behind it, Huayna Picchu, for a bird’s eye view of the famous Inca site. The trip carries a “C” classification for its high elevation and rugged trails. Not included in the trip cost are airfare to Lima, travel insurance, several meals, guide tips or personal spending money. For more information, contact Janet Far-rar at [email protected] or 303-933-3066.

Russia: Climb Mount ElbrusAugust 17 – 29, 2010 $3,097 (does not include airfare)For the seventh time, the CMC’s High Altitude Mountaineering Section will lead a trip to Rus-sia and the spectacular Caucasus Mountains of southern Russia, between the Black and Caspian Seas. Mount Elbrus (18,510 feet) is one of the fabled Seven Summits and offers strenuous, but not overly difficult, climbing. Required are a ba-sic knowledge of ice axe, crampons and roped travel. The trip will use the standard southern ap-proach from the Baksan Valley and pass the ruins of the famous Priut (Hut), one of 11 that burned in 1998. Extra days are allotted for acclimatization and summit attempts. Transit is through Moscow and will include a daylong city tour at the end of the trip. The cost of the trip includes domestic air-fare within Russia, all lodging and most meals, ground transportation, guide fees in the valley, a Russian visa and permit fees, leader expenses and CMC fee. The final cost may vary slightly depending on airfare and currency exchange issues. For application requirements, please see www.cmc.org/AT. To obtain the trip itinerary and applica-tion, contact Steve Bonowski at [email protected] or P.O. Box 280286, Lakewood CO 80228-0286. Trip packet is available only by regular mail. No phone calls please.

Hiking Circuit of EcuadorSeptember 8 – 19, 2010$2,501 (does not include airfare)This trip will give you an opportunity to travel to a private preserve nestled in a rustic moun-tain setting in the Pichincha Foothills near the Quito airport, offering peace and tranquility. You will experience the bird and animal life and hike in the footsteps of ancient Incas on the Last Inca Emperor’s Trails. Throughout the circuit, take in incredible views of the mountains and volcanoes and enjoy superb photo opportuni-ties with a new adventure around every corner.Arriving in Quito, we will explore the capital city of Ecuador and learn about colonial art, his-tory, archaeology, and folklore. One day will be reserved for trekking to the Highland Rainfor-est, visiting sacred waterfalls and learning about some of the 250 varieties of native medicinal plants in the region. We will visit a wild virgin cloud forest around Pichincha Mountain and trek on great jungle trails inside a natural para-dise, observing everything from hummingbirds to orchids. The area is considered a paradise, with some 450 bird species, majestic waterfalls, and 300 varieties of orchids. A visit to the world famous Otavala Indian Market will give you a chance to shop for local handmade products. An optional four or seven night cruise to the Galapagos Islands is available following the trip. For more information, please contact Betsy Weitkamp at 303-722-1656 or [email protected].

Trekking in Nepal September 25 – October 10, 2010$2526 (does not include airfare)Join Pemba Sherpa, a native of the Khumbu re-gion of the Nepal Himalayas, on this spectacular trek through the foothills of some of the world’s highest peaks. Pemba has been guiding visitors to his homeland since 1986, and in 2010 will lead us into the heart of the world’s majestic Himalayan Mountains and into the rarely visited Lumding Valley. Very few Westerners have ever ventured into this unspoiled valley. We will be surrounded by striking scenery as we trek through virgin terrain, all the while marveling at views of Mount Everest and its neighbors. We will also spend time with Pem-ba’s family in the small Sherpa village of Sengma and will relax for a couple of days in Nepal’s col-orful capital city of Kathmandu. For more infor-mation, please contact Pemba Sherpa at (303) 525-6508 or [email protected]


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