Why Go?Tokyo (東京) offers a tapestry of sensory madness unlike anywhere else. It is a city forever reaching into the future, resulting in sci-fi streetscapes of crackling neon and soaring towers. Yet it is also a city seeped in history, and you can find traces of the shōgun’s capital on the kabuki stage or under the cherry blossoms at Ueno Park.

There are excellent museums here, along with everything else you can ask of Japan – grand temples, atmospheric shrines, elegant gardens and, yes, even hot springs. How-ever, Tokyo is also a place where sightseeing can take a back-seat. To get to know the city is to enjoy it as the locals do: by splurging on divine sushi, singing karaoke until dawn or shopping for the latest must-have.

Tokyo has a neighbourhood for everyone – be they suit-clad salarymen (white-collar workers), manga-thumbing otaku (geek) or hime gyaru (princess girl). No doubt it has one for you, too.

Tokyo%03 / POP 13.24 MILLION

When to Go

Mar & Apr Cherry-blossom viewing is in full swing – spread the picnic blanket and bring a bentō.

May–Sep Hot and humid, but lively summer festivals more than make up for it.

Oct–Dec Crisp, cool days. Falling gingko leaves turn Tokyo’s streets to gold.

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20/68

Best Places to Eat¨¨ Daiwa Sushi (p112)

¨¨ Nagi (p116)

¨¨ Hantei (p118)

¨¨ Tofuya-Ukai (p113)

¨¨ Tonki (p114)

Best Places to Stay¨¨ Sawanoya Ryokan (p110)

¨¨ Shibuya Granbell (p109)

¨¨ Nui (p111)

¨¨ Claska (p108)

¨¨ Park Hyatt (p109)

History ......................... 68Sights & Activities ....... 68Courses ..................... 104Tours .......................... 105Festivals & Events ..... 105Sleeping......................107Eating ..........................111Drinking & Nightlife ... 119Entertainment ........... 130Shopping ....................133

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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#1 TsukijiFish Market

#4 Harajuku

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See Iidabashi & Akihabara Map (p90)

See Asakusa &Sumida-gawa Map (p100)

See Ebisu &Meguro Map (p80)

See Harajuku & Around Map (p85)

See Marunouchi, Ginza & Tsukiji Map (p74)

See Odaiba & Tokyo Bay Map (p103)

See Roppongi & Around Map (p78)

See Shibuya & Around Map (p83)

See Shinjuku Map (p88)

See Ueno Map (p96)

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1 Tucking into some of the freshest sushi on the planet at Tsukiji Fish Market (p73)

2 Soaking up the atmosphere (and the incense) at Asakusa’s centuries-old temple, Sensō-ji (p99)

3 Raising a glass in the nightlife neighbourhood of Shinjuku (p128)

4 Joining the eccentric fashion tribes as they shop their way through Harajuku (p135)

5 losing yourself in the vestiges of Shitamachi (low city) culture in Yanaka (p98)

6 Catching the salt-slinging, belly-slapping ritual of sumō at Ryōgoku Kokugikan (p132)

7 getting swept up in the crowds and neon lights of Shibuya (p82)

8 gawking at the gilded screens and glistening swords of the Tokyo National Museum (p93)

9 Venturing into the belly of the pop culture beast that is Akihabara (p92)

Tokyo Highlights