tobe cover vol iii runway fall 2013-14

8/13/2019 Tobe Cover Vol III Runway Fall 2013-14

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TOBE

VOLUME X 201

REPORT

p

y

No.

21

VeroniqueBranquinho

AlexanderWang

MSGM

RUNWAYSPRING 2014-15

BottegaVeneta


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3/44

LETTER TO THE CLIENT

We hope youve noticed this year of transformation for Tobe. We

take seriously our heritage as a top executive read and have given

thoughtful consideration to where our industry is going, how the

consumer is evolving and what key strategies need to be examined

to be a winner in the eyes of the customer.

During this last year weve stepped back and cast a fresh eye on

large topics to put forth smart thought-leadershipin areas such as

Seasonality, The Creative Economy, Customer Care and Branding.

The team has proposed fresh strategies, compelling consumer

engagement tactics and what we are convinced is the best

go-forward positioning for design, merchandising and marketing.

For this Spring 2014-15 Runway Report, like all Tobe Reports, we

offer longer shelf-life research and analysissuited to strategically

planning your assortments, delivery flow and the merchandising and

marketing messages you will stand for.

To do this we take the time to talk through the overarching

implicationsfor merchandising each level of business, the items, the

novelty direction and the color flow, fabrications and design details.

Weve even taken a close look at the Mens Runway this year in

Tobes July Digital, Mens Spring 2014 Analysis at tobereport.com.

For Tobe, the ubiquity of fast-to-market thematic runway analysis

signaled a void in carefully evaluated runway dissection. To satisfy

the interest in immediate coverage of the key Fashion Weeks, Tobe

swiftly assesses New York, London, Milan and Paris to give you the

top notes for each city. You received these Tobe Dispatches in your

email in-box on September 18, 24, 30 and October 10, respectively.

In addition, we prepare individual runway presentations focused

on each of our consumer profilesDesigner/Young Designer,

Contemporary/Young Contemporary, Teen/Tweenthat we

encourage you and your teams to make time to review with us.

These are presented in a conversational format so we can speak to

the individual needs of your business.

Tobes three levels of runway analysisReports, Dispatches and

Presentationsare constructed to help you interpret the most recent

collections for the long- and short-term, to appropriately pace your

customer, define your offering and maximize business.

Leslie J Ghize

Executive Vice President


4/44TOBENEXT VO LU ME X 2013 SPRING 2014-15

TOBE TAKEAWAYS

TOBE SUGGESTS

Maximizing

ShirttailsFoundation

white shirts

embody

directional

appeal with

exposed

shirttails that

extend past the

hemlines of skirts

and dresses.

Styling with Long Sleeves

As a go-forward styling technique, extra-long

leeves will be worn unbuttoned, conveying

an air of relaxed insouciance.

New Proportion, LongOver ShortMini-skirts and dresses may be the

summer must-have but not everyone

wants to bare it alloffer the customer

a new styling quotient by pairing mirco

styles with long jackets and vests.

TECH ACCESSORIES

In collaboration with key technology

brand Samsung, Fallon jewelry

staged its first runway show

incorporating traditional accessories

with the new wearable devices.

YOUNG

MINDSET

Enter the age

the Young Luconsumer, the new

demographic darlin

of the designer set.

REAL WAY TO

RUNWAY

Many a catwalk

reflected styles on the

sidewalks, making for

undeniably wearable

merchandising

direction for Spring

2014-15.

FALLONJEWELRY

BALENCIAGA

CARVEN

DKNY

MSGN


5/44tobereport.coOBENEXT VO LU ME X 2013

TOBE TAKE ACTION

NAMES TO KNOW

NEW YORK

Adam Lippes

Adam Selman

Charles Harbison (Harbison)

Frame Denim

Hanako Maeda (ADEAM)

Josep Font (Delpozo)

Nellie Partow

Rosie Assoulin

Tae Yong (Beyond Closet)

Tanya Taylor

Wes Gordon

LONDON

Barbara Casasola

Emilia Wickstead

Whistles

MILAN

Alessandro DellAcqua (No. 21)

Alessandra Facchinetti (Tods)

Alexis Martial (Iceberg)

Fausto Puglisi

Gaia Trussardi (Trussardi)

Marco de Vincenzo

PARIS

Cdric Charlier

Chitose Abe (Sacai)

Julien Dossena (Paco Rabanne,

ATTO)

Natalie Alaverdian (A.W.A.K.E)

Yang Li

A Study inContrastNeo-conservatism

lives on. Whats

the latest iteration?

Button-up tops withmini shorts.

Focusing onthe New Fit

Silhouettesloosen-up,

sophistication

gets a sense

of ease and

consumers

continue

to adopt a

comfortable but

chic aesthetic.

Casual FootwearThe influx of casual footwear,

be it flat sandals or slip-on

sneakers, transformed the

tone of many collections.

RE-IMAGINED

SUCCESSES

Consider details to be

the key that unlocks the

future success for already

proven silhouettes.

HANDLE VOLUME

WITH CARE

While silhouettes grow in volume,

proportion becomes essential

to on-the-floor-stylingthink

structured and oversized tops worn

with lean and skinny bottoms.

CHRIS

TOPHERKANE

CHRISTIANDIOR

ORGANICBYJOHNPATRICK

HONOR

JOSEPH



THE CONCEPTSINFORMING

GO-FORWARDDESIGN



Beauty can be found in the imperfect. Thats the worldview attributed to the Japanese ideal of wabi-sabi.

Undone, asymmetric, incomplete and rough-hewn are qualities associated with this aesthetic. Joseph Altuzarras

patchworked pieceschannel this idea perfectly and were inspired by the workwear of Japanese fishermen. These

fishermen owned only one uniform and to prolong its life throughout the workers career, the garment was repaired

and reworked; throwing it away was not an option. Here we see designers embraceunevenness, austerity, fraying

and shirring to create long-lasting uniforms for todays consumer.

WABI-SABI

ALTUZARRA

CALVIN

KLEIN

COSTUMENATIONAL

J.W.ANDERSON

TERETBANTINE



Geometric shapeswere on the minds of many designers, from rectangles and squaresto triangles and trapezoids

to circles and ovals. These basic shapes are at the heart of design and provided the basis for adding volume and

dimensionto otherwise simple, unadorned and uncomplicated pieces of clothing. This design shiftis resonating with

paramours of fashion who want a dose of architecturewithout having to sacrifice wearability.

SIMPLE GEOMETRY

AKRIS

EMILIAWICKSTEAD

BALENCIAGA

GUYLAROCHE

GIAMBATTISTAVALLI



It all started with Hedi Slimanes Fall 2013 collection for Saint Laurent. Slimanes younger-skewing looks spawned

a new aesthetic Young Luxe. Continuing this season, Alexander Wangs Balenciaga looked decidedly more Wang

than the young designers debut collection last season. Julien Dossena premiered at Paco Rabanne with a youthful

rangefor the futuristic minimalist and, proving that age is just a number, Karl Lagerfeldshowed several Young

Luxe-leaning looks for Chanel on the heels of his recent 80th birthday.

YOUNG LUXE

BALENCIAGA

SAINTLAURENT

PACORABANNE

PETERSOM

WESGORDON C

HANEL



For the past several seasons designers have been pulling inspiration from all different arenas, sports arenas that

is. Spring 14-15 marks a more literal interpretation of this trend than seasons past. Leveraging on true performance

featureslook to Gucci for strategically placed mesh insets and to Tommy Hilfiger for smart fabricsthe integration

of the sports influenceis more significant than just design and styling details.

ATHLETICA

GUCCI

TOMMYHILFIGER

MARNI

PRADA

PRABALGURUNG

THOMASTAIT



Continuing from last season and the mid-season presentations, silhouettes loosen up and move away from the

body with shaping and proportion becoming more deliberate . Oversized garments, voluminous layering pieces

and a slouchy sensibility grow stronger. In no way sloppy or unkempt, these looks boast an effortlessly pulled

together aesthetic. This new fit and look is all about comfort, ease and a sense of soft sophisticationwhen

designed with care.

MAX RELAX

CHLO H

ERMS

3.1PHILLIPLIM


STELLAMCCARTNEY

PHILOSOPHY


12/440 TOBENEXT VO LU ME X 20 13 SPRING 2014-15

THE AESTHETICSOF STYLING

ANDMERCHANDISING


13/44



Matched setscontinue to prove they have lasting appeal. From pajama setsto mini dressespaired with

coordinating cardigansand head-to-toe print ensembles, these iterations are anything but fatigued.

MATCHED SET

ALE

XANDERWANG

MULBERRY

DKNY

CARVEN

MARCODEVINCEN

ZO


15/44tobereport.comOBENEXT VO LU ME X 2013

SHEERHow revealing!Designers chose to bare it all with a range of transparentgarments. Conservative silhouettes such as

elastic-gathered tops and matching skirts as well as fitted dresses styled with modest over-pieces conveyed a feeling

of soft romanticism. Sheer panelsdecorated coat and skirt hems for something more covered up.

ALBERTAFERRETTI J

WA

NDERSON

BURBERRYPRORSUM

ICEBERG

BALENCIAGA


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CRISSCROSSItems fromhis and her wardrobeare being crisscrossed on runways (see Tobe Evolve: Crisscross). Hisoversized

moto jacket with herbias-cut skirt at Jason Wu. Hiswhite button-down shirt under hert-shirt dress with the shirttail

peeking out at MSGM. Masculine-meets-femininenever looked so good.

JASONWU

MSGM N

O.

21

VIKTOR&ROLF

TRUSSARDI



As called out in our first edition of Tobe Evolve, quietly confident Neo-Conservatism still offers a soft sex appeal

for both a younger and a more mature customer. This studied femininitygraced numerous Spring 14-15 runways,

confirming the continuance of this design sensibility with the careful pairing of covered up and revealing.

NEO-CONSERVATISM

HONOR

BURBERRYPRORSUM

MIUMIU

ROCHAS

ERDEM

EMILIAWICKSTEAD



CULTURAL CLASHA sense of opulence, mysticisim and decadence emergedacross all four runway cities. Here the festival

girl is transformed into a world class traveler. Passport ready, these looks are stamped with ornamentation,

embellishment, fringe and draping with layering widespreadthink long tunics and dresses over pants.

CHLO

DRIESVANNOTEN

ETRO G

IVENCHY

THEROW

MIUMIU

ASHISH



With consumer-centricity as our cornerstone, Tobe was particularly delighted to see a heavy trickle-up of street

styles to the Spring 2014 runways. Nineties fashionand hip hop influences were among the reflected aesthetics.

And from the streets themselves: graffiti motifs. A strong denimpresence among even the most luxurious of labels

punctuated the theme.

STREET STYLING

ALEXANDERWANG

BRIANLICHTENBERG

CARVEN

RODARTE

LOUISVUITTON


21/44tobereport.comOBENEXT VO LU ME X 2013 tobereport.com

WHITE PARTYCrisp, fresh-laundry whitesmake for a clean color palette refresh story for spring. Whether merchandised together

for head-to-toe pairings or called out as It items (see: the great white coat, white suitingand the little white

shift dress), consider white the new black. The white shirt also made for a particularly popular item across many a

designer collection.

BURBERRYPRORSUM 3

.1PHILLIPLIM

VERONIQUEBRANQUIN

HO

MARNI

SALVATOREFERRAGAM

O



THE

ITEMSIMPACT

INCOMINGADVANCED



VESTmpact

A key ingredient for the layering look going forward,

he motorcycle vest is set to hit next at retail.

ncomingDouble-breasted construction and oversized fit

mbody Crisscross dressing. (See Tobe Evolve:

Crisscross for a full analysis of the unisex styling

hift.)

AdvancedElongated styles are swapped in for blazers for

dvanced dressers.

mpactForm meets function as the anorak reenters the

ashion conversation.

ncomingWhile more literal versions are projected to make

he most impact, anoraks constructed in more

ressed-up fabrics extend the styles versatility.

AdvancedHigh design elements like cropped lengths and

ootball sleeves elevate the item.

mpactA trend item for seasons, the cleaned-up

bomber makes the biggest impact for retail for

pring 2014.

ncomingFor consumers with basic bombers in their

wardrobe rotation already, decorated versions

old the most appeal.

AdvancedForward dressers will be quick to adopt the

bomber dress.

jackets

BOMBER

ANORAK

IMPACT INCOMING ADVANCED

VICTORIABECKHAM

MARNI

STELLAMCCARTNEY

OPENINGCEREM

ONY

JASONWU

SACAI

VRONIQUELROY

CHRISTIANDIOR

YIGALAZROUL



ANTONIOBERARDI

SWEATSHIRTmpact

A fashion item for a few seasons now, the icon

weatshirt will lead the pack as the impact piece ofhe moment.

ncominghape and volume penetrate the sweatshirt with an

xaggerated and full sleeve.

AdvancedEmbellishment, decoration and surface interest will

ttract the most forward dressers.

mpactayering takes on new levels as the lightweight and

lim fit pullover is paired over dresses.

ncomingClothing continues to loosen up with a sense of

ase, confirming that the slouchy pullover will have

reat impact on Spring 2014 retail floors.

AdvancedKey influencers like Cline push the boundaries on

easonality with an oversized turtleneck pullover

paired back to a sheer skirt.

mpactRecently viewed as a fashion item, the cropped

ardigan set will appeal to anyone who has

lready adopted the cropped silhouette.

ncomingConsumers who desire a come-hither aesthetic

will be persuaded to try the sheer cardigan for

pring 2014.

Advancedook for the self-proclaimed style gurus to

be the first to embrace the oversized slouchy

ardigan.

sweaters

CARDIGAN

PULLOVER



ROCHAS S

ONIARYKIEL

WESGORDON

CLINE

ICEBERG

MARCJACOBS

ACN

E



WHITE SHIRTmpact

The classic white button-down, an item Tobe first

oticed on the Fall runways, continues to make itsmark as a wardrobe staple.

ncomingOxford blue brings something new to the table,

specially with the addition of sheer insets.

AdvancedAcross the fashion cities, oversized white shirts

xtended past the hemlines of skirts and dresses.

mpactGraphics tees, with a longer sleeve length and

ropped shoulder seam, will be important especially

or younger consumers.

ncomingThe sport of choicetennisevident with the influx

f polo shirts and sport stripes.

Advancedonger lengths and fuller sleeves define the shape

f the football jersey.

mpactThe crop top in its truest forma sleeveless

hell that accentuates the midriff.

ncomingNext up? A boxy, camp-style shirt that can be

asily adopted given its roomy silhouette.

AdvancedBralette tops worn over outerwear look like one,

nified piece.

tops

CROP TOP

ELEVATED TEE


GIAMBATTISTAVALLI

PRADA

CLINE

MSGM

LYNDEVON

ASHISH

R

AG&BONE

MICHAELKORS

VALENTINO




SHIRTDRESSmpact

Classic, fluid and appropriate for a variety of

ccasions.

ncomingCutouts and twists add a feminine touch.

AdvancedPerforations and plumes of fabric elevate this

wardrobe staple.

mpacthort and flirty T-shirt dress.

ncomingThe little white (shift) dress.

AdvancedA layered version with elbow-length sleeves.

mpactThe modern maxi.

ncomingThe minimal slip.

AdvancedThe ladylike sheath.

dresses

BELOW-THE-KNEE

SHIFT

MATTHEWW

ILLIAMSON

DKNY

FENDI

TANYATAYLO

R

VICTORIABECKHAM

PORTS1961

STELLAMCCARTNEY

CHRISTIANDIOR

SACAI



JUMPSUITmpact

Grown-up romper.

ncomingtrapless and cropped.

AdvancedDraped, full-length and evening-ready.

mpactkinny denim gets the high-waisted treatment.

ncomingA menswear version with pleats and creases.

AdvancedRoomy, carrot-leg crops.

mpactThe most casual take on this item, cut in twill.

ncomingTailored and skirt-like with an inverted pleat

etail.

AdvancedGo for drama with a pattern and texture.

pants

WIDE CROP

HIGH-WAIST


EMPORIOARMANI

PROENZASCHOULER

BARBARABU

I

TRUSSARDI

FELIPEOLIVE

IRABAPTISTA

VALENTINO

WHISTLES

GIVENCHY

DELPOZO



mpactTrack shorts falls in line with consumers real world

ym-to-street affinity.

The Young Contemporary/Contemporary love affair

with skorts has only just begun.

ncomingong length shorts are included in collections of all

ks for Spring 2014. Expect softly tailored Bermuda

tyles to hold relevance into 2015.

AdvancedBoard shorts reflect the surfing slant thats

permeating fashion.

mpactong length jackets styled with straight miniskirts

made for a cool combination that was splashed

cross runways for Spring 2014.

ncomingAltuzarras wabi-sabi take on pencil skirts refresh

he item.

AdvancedModest dressers need not apply; sheer skirts were

ayered to reveal a number of underpinnings, from

ot pants to shirttails.

mpactkirts, a category that Tobe projects will grow in

mportance in the coming seasons, come in all

hapes and sizes for Spring 2014-15.

ncomingFlare and circle versions in mini lengths are

beginning to trend at street level.

AdvancedWere flagging architectural skirts as the Next

Big Thing. Look to this Guy Laroche version

or mature consumers and to the Australian

Contemporary market for younger cues.

skirts

FULL

STRAIGHT


GUYLAROCHE

PRABALGURUNG

shorts

MARCBYMARCJACOBS

GIAMBATTISTAVALLI

PAUL&JOE

MARCJACOBS

BALENCIAGA

FAUSTOPUGLISI

LACOSTE

ALTUZARRA



Casual dressing, one of the most impactful messages on the runway, is key for footwear.

lip-on sneakers, sporty and flat sandalsand low-heeled silhouettesdominated the

ollections. Pointy toes continue to span a range of shoes.

footwear

Slip-On MuleTOMMY HILFIGER

Athletic SneakerDKNY

Perforated Slip-OnOSKLEN

Sport SandalSUNO

Pointed PumpNARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Pointed LoaferCREATURES OF THE WIND

Mid-Heel SlingbackTORY BURCH

Feathered FlatROCHAS



Clean and simplesupple leather and structured shapes mark the increasing minimal

directionfor handbags. The aesthetic works for more than just shoulder bags and clutches.

handbags

Hip PouchTORY BURCH

Mini ClutchMULBERRY

Two-fer Duffle3.1 PHILLIP LIM

Shoulder BagMARNI

BackpackMARIOS SCHWAB


31/44tobereport.comOBENEXT VO LU ME X 2013OBENEXT VO LU ME X 2013

High necklines arent just for apparelthe reemergence of chokerscame on strong.

The biggest innovation for jewelry comes through in Fenton & Fallons collaboration

with Samsungs new wearable tech gadgetthe Samsung Galaxy Gear.

jewelry

Metal ChokerBALENCIAGA

Plastic ChokerKENZO

Metal CollarMIU MIU

Samsung Galaxy GearFENTON & FALLON

Ear CuffPRABAL GURUNG

Hand Chain and RingsVERONICA BEARD


32/44



hapes that move basics forwardextended sport visors and double-brimmed bucket hats.

hats

Double-BrimmedAKRIS

TurbanDEREK LAM

Sport VisorMARNI

A round-up of notable mentions include a mix of accessoriessee Pradas jeweled tube

ockand Derek Lams fringe scarf.

etc.

Jeweled Tube SockPRADA

Tied BeltCLINE

Fringe ScarfDEREK LAM



DRIVINGCOLOR

MESSAGES



Herms fall-worthy look of

rich jewel tones provides a

striking alternative to Springs

warm palette.

Terracottaand rustic redare

a new take on earthy hues.

Most notable about Spring blues

was the range in which they were

presentedan oxford blueand

bright navyoften paired together.

Coinciding with casual dressing,

denim blues(both true denim

and shades mimicking the

material) could not go unnoticed.

HERMS

VIONNET

TOPSHOP

UNIQUE

STELLAMCCARTNEY



color

Bright navy, mustard and forest green have become year-round essentialsknown as Tobes new neutrals. Consumers

onsider these basics and understand how to pair them with the latest fashion colors. New additions are elephant grey and

Clorox white; dont be surprised to see a slew of forward dressers wearing them head-to-toecome Spring 14.

NEW NEUTRALS

pring 2014s confectionary palette features an assortment of hues reminiscent of a bowl of Jordan almonds. The finest cuesome from Burberry Prorsums back-to-neutralpairing, Icebergs icing-white semi-sheer top layer and Thomas Taits sweet

nd concrete combination.

JORDAN ALMOND

BURBERRYPRORSUM

ICEBERG

MIUMIU

ROCHAS

THOMASTAIT

CHLO

MARNI

HERMS

VICTORIABECKHAM

CHRISTOPHELEMAIRE


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prints/patterns

For Spring 2014, picnic gingham, beach towel stripes, bandana printsand blanket stripeslayer together for a pattern story

eminiscent of a well-appointed campsitea glamp-site, if you will.

CAMPING

Art and fashion are frequently linkedso its no surprise that several influentialashion houses looked to graffiti, muralsand watercolorsfor print inspiration.

ART GALLERY

BALMAIN ROSIE ASSOULINCHALAYAN DKNY

CLINE CHANEL PRADA ISA ARFEN



prints/patterns

First explored this year in our Tobe Report: Wit + Whimsy, prints with kitsch and kick served up another round of winks from

he runway. Scattered patterns, crittersand textremain essential.

WIT + WHIMSY

Want to get away? Be it Hawaiian reduxor Polynesia-nspired, vacation prints make for postcard perfect patterns.

Scenes from nature, like splices of tree barkat Akris, addea graphic element to clothing and conveyed a sense of

movement. Resembling paisley from afar, Kenzos school o

fishinvited a closer look.

VACATION NATURAL

LIBERTINE UNDERCOVERSPORTMAX AZEDE JEAN-PIERRE

NO. 21 MISSONI AKRIS KENZO



Details ran the gamut, from surface intereststandouts like patches, embroidery and burnouts to visually inspiring wraps, fol

nd flaps. Unfinished edges, fringe and feathers brought attention to the seams and construction of the garment, while cuto

heer insets and mesh played with a skin vs. material contrast. Details are the simplest way to update classics and best sell

or take the ordinary to the extraordinary.

defining details

BurnoutFENDI

PatchesDKNY

EmbroideryJONATHAN SAUNDERS

FoldsRAG & BONE

WrapsPREEN

Raised SurfacesMARNI Plastic

SIMONE ROCHA

FlapsGIANFRANCO FERR Mesh

GUCCI Knife PleatsTHAKOON



FringeALTUZARRA

UnfinishedEdges

CHANEL

FeathersTHOMAS TAIT

Sheer InsetsVICTORIA BECKHAM

CutoutsCLINE

Pockets with

Oversized FlapsPRADA

PipingTANYA TAYLOR

Paperbag WaistAQUILANO.RIMONDI

ZippersSAINT LAURENT

AsymmetryCHRISTOPHER KANE


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Copyright 2012 Tobe Associates, a member of The Doneger Group, 463 Seventh Ave., New York, N.Y. 10018 USA. All rights reserved. No part of this report may bereproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system.

463 Seventh Avenue, Suite 202, New York, New York 10018 T 212-867-8677 F 212-867-8662 www.tobereport.comTOBE

THE TOBE REPORT

WHATS COMING

Entertainment/Fashion

LESLIE J GHIZE

[email protected]

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDEN

NANCY VALENTINO

[email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR

KATARZYNA ZYSKOW

[email protected]

ART DIRECTOR

LORI HOLLIDAY BANKS

[email protected]

DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH

& ANALYTICS

ROSEANNE MORRISON

[email protected]

FASHION DIRECTOR

EDITORS

ALYSSA CIRANNI

[email protected]

AMY LAN

[email protected]

OLIVIA PANELLA

[email protected]

MARGARET WILLIAMS

212-560-3608mwilliamson@tobereport


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ChristianWijnants

TheyskensTh

eory

Altuzarra

alGurung

tobe cover vol iii runway fall 2013-14

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