CONTENTS

Introduction

ABriefHistoryoftheAmericanCocktail

ToolsandTechniques

Light,Bright,andRefreshing

BigandBoozy

Sweet,Creamy,andDesserty

MetricConversionsandEquivalents

Acknowledgments

Index

INTRODUCTION

WhenIsetouttowriteabookonTexascocktailsandspirits,itwasnotimmediatelyapparentwhereIshouldbegin.UnlikeKentucky,wedonthaveanindigenousspiritthatdefinesus.UnlikeNewYork,wedonthaveanyancienttavernswheretheFoundingFathersmighthavewateredtheirtroops.Wedonthaveanuninterruptedtietothecocktailspast,likeNewOrleans,andourmoderncocktailbarsarestilltoonewtohaveestablishedaregionalstyleoftheirown.Tragically,ournationalbeerLoneStarisheadquarteredinCaliforniaandourfavoritecocktail,theMargarita,mostlikelywasntinventedhere.

So,wheredowestart?

Regionallyspeaking,Texasisamelting-potstate.WeareSouthern,butnotdeeplyso.Itisasouthwesternstate,butnotallchile-peppers-and-Navajo-rugslikeNewMexico.AllofthoseLouisianaexpatsslippingacrosstheSabineRiverhavelefttheirmarkonourcuisineandourdrinkinghabits,especiallyaroundHoustonandpartseast.Mostimportant,werehugelyinfluencedbyourneighborstothesouth.TexascuisineisinextricablylinkedtothetraditionsofthemillionsofMexicans,MexicanAmericans,andTejanoswhopopulatethestate,whohavealwayspopulatedthestate.(Recallthattheborderusedtobelocatedseveralhundredmilestothenorth,andthatoneoftheproverbialsixflagsthatflewoverTexasisthatofMexico.)Wehaveaveryvisibleandreveredruralheritage,andyetourmoderncities(includingsixofthelargesttwentyintheUnitedStates)attractpeoplefromacrossthecountry,andfromaroundtheworld.

Ihavetriedtohonorallofthoseinfluenceshere.

Imabigbelieverinthelocalfoodcommunity.Althoughwehavetheluxuryasmodernhumanstoforceouragendaonthefoodsupplyandobtainanythingwewantatanytimeofyear,Idontrecommendit.AlocalwatermelonatthepeakofseasonisathingofincomparablebeautyintheheatofanAugustsun,nothingismorerefreshing,especiallyinaWatermelonMojito.Texasgrapefruits,eruptingwithjuicysweetness,willputtoshameanyout-of-stategrapefruit.Weshouldrejoiceinthat,andwhentheyregone,theyregoneuntilnextseason,givingussomethingtolookforwardto.

Texasisfortunatetohavevirtuallyyear-roundgrowingseasons,andwithafewexceptionswecangrowjustaboutanythinghere.ThroughoutthebookIhavehighlightedagriculturalproductsthatthriveinTexas,especiallythosethatarenativeoradaptive.Naturetellsuswhatshewantsustoeat(ordrink!)andwhen,ifweonlylisten.

ThankstothetrailblazingeffortsofTitoBeveridgeandthosewhohavefollowedinhisfootsteps,wehavealocalspiritsindustrytorallyaround.InthisbookyouwillmeetTito;goonapicnicwiththefirstladydistillerinTexas,PaulaAngerstein;andbeholdthemajesticbeardofWacowhiskeydistillerChipTate.

Therecipesinthisbookaremeanttobesimpleenoughthatmostpeoplecanmakethemwitharelativelybasichomebarandafewtools.TherearerecipesfromanumberofprominentTexasbartenders,suchasAustinsBillNorris,andHoustonsBobbyHeugel.Someofthesearesimple,andsomearemoremixological,buttheyallrepresentwhatTexasbartendersaremakingatthisjunctureintime.Ihavealsoincludedanumberofmyfavoriteclassiccocktails;formanyoftheseIoffersimplevariationsthatincludelocalproduceorflavors,suchastheFigDaiquiri.

Inmanyfamilies,culinaryindoctrinationofthenextgenerationstartsatayoungage.Irecallmakingfriedpiesandstampingcookiesinmygrandmotherskitchenasachild.Theever-presentFryDaddyonhercounternodoubtcontributedtomypresent-dayobsessionwithchickenwings.UnfortunatelyshedidnotteachmehowtomakeaMartini.Likemostyoungpeople,Ilearnedhowtoimbibefrompeoplewhodidntknowwhattheyweredoing.IrememberthefirstdrinkIlearnedhowtoorderinabaritwasaCapeCod.Beforethat,thefirstcocktailIeverlearnedtomakeincludedtheF-wordinitsnameandacanoffrozengrapejuiceinitsrecipe.(Forallofoursake,neitherofthesetreasuresisincludedinthisbook.)

Theprocessoflearninghowtodrinklikeanadultissooftenaself-guidedone.Thisbookisbynomeansacompleteeducation.ButIhopeyouwillapproachitwiththesamecuriosityandsenseofhumorwithwhichweapproachmixinganddrinkingdrinksatTipsyManor.

OntheOrganizationoftheRecipes

Somecocktailbooksareorganizedalphabetically,andsomeareorganizedbythebasespiritofthecocktail.Itwasmygoaltoorganizetherecipesbythewaypeopleactuallydrinkthinkingthatmostpeopledontgetacravingjustforaspecificspirit,butforacocktailthatiscoolandrefreshing,orpotentandbold,beitmadefromgin,whiskey,ortequila.Therecipesinthisbookareorganizedbythestyleandpersonalityofthedrink.TheLight,Bright,andRefreshingdrinksarethethirst-quenchersforourhot

summerseason.Big&Boozyrecipesareforspirit-driven,higher-octanecocktailstobeenjoyedwhentheheatrecedesandthesungoesdown.Sweet,Creamy&Dessertydrinkswillsatisfyyoursweettooth.Aswithallrecipes,thesearemeanttobeguidelinesandnotetched-in-stonerules.Everypalateisdifferent,andeveryingredientisdifferentespeciallywhenyouredealingwithfreshseasonalproduce.Irecommendthatyoufollowtherecipefirst,tastethecocktail,andadjusttoyourliking.Eachrecipemakesonecocktailunlessotherwisenoted.

Wheretheoriginofadrinkisknown,orifthereisaparticularinspirationorinfluenceforadrink,Ihaveattemptedtostateit.Thehistoryofcocktailsandspiritsisbyitsnatureafuzzyone,andanyomissionormisinterpretationisunintentional.

ABriefHistory

oftheAmericanCocktail

Themixingofdrinksdatesbacktotimeimmemorial,withrecipesinallmannerofancienttextsfordrinkstocurewhatailsyou.Thehistoryofthecocktail,bycontrast,iscomparativelymodern,anddistinctlyAmerican.Ourcolonialforebearscametotheseshoreswithplentyofintoxicatingcargo,butonlyrudimentaryideasformixeddrinkslightlyalcoholicdrinkssuchassyllabubs,caudles,andflipsthatwererichincaloriesfromeggsandmilk.Punchwasanoteworthyexceptionandreignedsupremeoverthepre-cocktails.Withinonehundredyearsofthenationsfounding,however,awildlyinnovative,distinctlyAmericancocktailcuisinewouldemergeandbegintobeexportedtopointsfarandwideanalcoholicambassadorfromthefledglingUnitedStates.

Weareonceagaininagoldenageofthecocktail,withTexascitiesfinallycatchingupwithourcoastalcounterpartsinthemixologicalartseventhepunchbowlhasbeendislodgedfromthetopshelf,dustedoff,andreturnedtoitsrightfulplaceonthebar.Aswepayhomagetothecontemporaryrenaissanceofartisanalbeverages,letusfirsttakeasurveyofthecocktailsmodernhistory.

IncolonialAmerica,theideaoftheindividualdrinkhadnotyettakenhold.Communaldrinkingwasthenorm,punchwasoftendrunkstraightfromthebowl,andtoastingtohealthwaswidespread.Thosewerebibuloustimes,withpercapitaconsumptionmanytimeshigherthanitistoday.Notonlywasituncommon(evenunhealthy)todrinkstraightwater,itwasconsideredpitiablebysomecommentators.Muchcommunityactivitycenteredaroundthetavern,andthetaverncenteredaroundthepunchbowl.Tothemoderneye,oneofthefirstthingswenoticewhenlookingatengravingsoftheseoldbarsisthatthereisnobarcustomerssataroundtables,facingoneanother.Theydidnotsitatalongcounterfacingthebartender,becausethatpersonhadnotyetemergedasaprofessionaldistinctfromthemultifacetedtavernkeeperofyore.

Astheyoungnationbegantoindustrializeandurbanizeinthenineteenthcentury,drinkinghabitslikewiseevolved.Itwasnotunusualforapprenticesandmastersworkinginsmallshopstogothroughmuchoftheirdayundersomekindofmildinebriation.Alcoholwasagoodsourceofcaloriesfermentationanddistillationareaboveallelseameansofpreservinggrainandfruit.Likewise,beforetheadventofmodernpurificationtechniques,alcoholwasaddedtowaterforitsantibacterialqualities.Thisallchangedasthefactorysystemdeveloped.Whereasafewmencansafelysitinaworkshopmakingsaddlesundertheinfluence,thegamechangeswhenhundredsorthousandsofpeoplehavetoworkincloseproximity,aroundexpensive(anddangerous)manufacturingequipment.ItisnocoincidencethatitwasnotjustreligionistswhowerethemostvocalproponentsofProhibition,butalsoindustrialistssuchasJohnD.Rockefeller.

Theevolutionofthecommercialicetradewasalsoamajorcontributortotheemergenceofcocktailsandprofessionalbartenders.Whereasicehadpreviouslybeenavailableasaluxuryforthewealthy,thedevelopmentofsophisticatedharvesting,storage,andtransportationtechniquesbyFredericktheIceKingTudorenabledthedemocratizationandspreadofice.Cutinwinterfromnorthernponds,lakes,andrivers,hugeblocksoficewereshippedininsulatedcargovesselstoportsasfarawayasNewOrleans,Havana,andCalcutta.Newtoolsandtechniquesweredevelopedtoincorporateiceintodrinks,andwiththemcountlessrecipes,manyofwhichwerecollectedinthefirstknowndrinksbooktobepublishedintheUnitedStates,TheBar-TendersGuide(1862),byJerryThomas.Theageofthecocktailbartenderwasborn,andmanyofthemoderntoolsandmajorrecipesthatareinusetodayweredevelopedbytheclosingdecadesofthenineteenthcentury.

However,thecocktailpartydidntlastlongastheWomensChristianTemperanceUnion(WCTU),thelargestandmostpowerfulwomensorganizationofitstime,advocatedfortemperance,notcompleteabstinencemoderation,notabolition.Buttemperanceevolvedintoafull-onprohibitionmovementwiththeemergenceofsuchsingle-issuepartiesastheAnti-SaloonLeague.TheASLwassoeffectiveatmakingituntenableforapoliticiantobepubliclywetthatbothmajorpoliticalpartiesaddedProhibitiontotheirrespectiveplatformsby1918.TheEighteenthAmendmentwasratifiedbythestatesonJanuary16,1919,andwentintoeffectthefollowingyear,thusbeginningthethirteen-yeardroughtknowneuphemisticallyastheNobleExperiment.

Prohibitionlargelyfailedatitsmainobjectiveofdryingoutthenation.Itgaveamammothboosttoorganizedcrimeandmadecriminalsoutofordinarycitizens.WhereasProhibitionwasamonolithic,completeeffortthatwasnationalinscope,repealwastheopposite:piecemeal,fractional,andhyperlocalizedinscope.TheTwenty-firstAmendmentthrewthedecisiontothestates,manyofwhichinturnpassedtheresponsibilityontocounties,cities,andevenjustice-of-the-peaceprecinctshencetheincrediblepatchworkquiltofliquorregulationsthatresultindifferentdegreesofwetvirtuallyeveryplaceyougo.TheentirestateofMississippiwasbonedryuntil1966.ManyreaderswillrememberwhenyoucouldntbuyliquorbythedrinkinTexas,andasof2012thedenizensofTylerstillhavetoleavethecitylimitstobuyabottleoneofthemanylingeringeffectsofProhibition.

ThemiddledecadesofthetwentiethcenturywereforthemostpartanunfortunatetimeforAmericancocktailmixology,theprofessionemergingfromProhibitioninastateonemightpredictitwouldbein,havingbeenforcedunderground,unabletoevolveforoveradecade.Wewentfromexportingourideasandtraditionsaboutcocktailstoexportingtheverytalent,asprofessionalbarmensoughtwetterpasturesabroad.Othersleftthebusinessentirely,orcontinuedtopracticethecraftinillegalspeakeasies,workingwithwhateveringredientstheycouldgetholdof.

Oneexceptiontothegeneralmalaiseofmid-centurymixologywasthetikimovement.TikiwasagloriouspasticheoftropicalandAsiandesignaestheticsconjuredbyHollywood,pioneeredbysuchcolorfulcharactersasDontheBeachcomberandTraderVicBergeron.Thetikibarsofferedacuisineofcocktailsbasedontropicalflavors,butbuiltinaclassicalfashionwithbalanceandcomplexityinmind,andpractitionersoftheartweremassivelysuccessful.Inthe1930s,theearlytikibarsandrestaurantsofferedaTechnicolorculinaryfantasiaagainsttheblack-and-whitebackdropoftherecentDepression;adecadelater,theyofferedsolacetothesoulsofwearysoldiersandprovidedanescapetocitizens.WithcountlesssoldiersreturningfromthePacifictheater,andwiththepopularizationofHawaiiantourism(andeventualstatehood),anincreasedinterestintheSouthPacificmanifesteditselfacrossthemiddlebrowcultureoftheday.AmericanshadnowbeenexposedtotheallureoftheOrient,andPolynesianPoptookthecountrybystorm.WhatstartedinthebackyardofHollywoodinthe1930shadspreadbythe1950ssuchthatonecouldescapetothetropicsinjustaboutanycityinAmericaeverythingfromshoppingmallstohomedecorsoonbenefitedfromatouchoftheislands.

Whereastikipalacesprovidedthemostflamboyantmeansofescape,themostcommonsanctuarywasthehomeitself.AsElaineTylerMaywritesinHomewardBound,Thehomeseemedtoofferasecureprivatenestremovedfromthedangersoftheoutsideworld.Seekingrespitefromthedinofwar,thedeprivationoftheDepression,andthechaosofcrowdedcities,Americansflockedtothecountrysidetopopulateitwithsuburbs.Americaflexeditsindustrialmightinamind-bogglingcollusionofdevelopersandhomebuilders,automobilemanufacturers,tiremakers,androad-buildingcontractors,allsupportedbygovernmentwillandtheGIBill.Inashorttime,suburbanizationforeverchangedtheAmericanlandscape,anditalsochangedthewaywedrink.

AsAmericansstrivedtoescapethechaosofthecityforthecalmofthesuburbs,ourdrinkinghabitschanged.Withouttheconvenienceofthecornertavernorneighborhoodpub,wesawtheriseofthehomebartenderandanexplosionofgearcateringtowardthatemergingmarket.WhereascocktailmanualsfrombeforeProhibitionweresparseguidebooksforworkingprofessionals,thosethatemergedafterwardwerelushwithdetaileddescriptionsandimages.TedSauciersBottomsUp(1951)featuredpinupgalsfromthebrushesofAmericastopcommercialillustrators;EsquiremagazinesHandbookforHosts(1949)offerednotjustanelaborateselectionofcocktailrecipesbutalsomeat-carvingtips,jokes,toasts,and

rulesforcanastaandbridge.

Atthesametimeasthesenewbackyardbonsvivantsemerge,so,too,didtheperfectspiritforthosewithrudimentarydrink-makingskills.IntheearlyhistoryofAmericandrink,vodkawaseitheranonentityorwhatmightbeconsideredanethnicspecialty,anodditysuchasslivovitzorrompopeconsumednotbythemassesbutonlybyisolateddemographicgroups.Sounknownwasvodka,intheearlyyearsSmirnoffmarketeditaswhitewhiskey,asawayofspeakingtothebrownspiritthatwasthedominanthoochinmid-centuryAmerica.Smirnoffsuseofpopularculturewasmasterfulthebiggeststarsofthedayappearedintheirads,andJamesBondsmethodoforderingthevodkamartiniisnodoubtthemostfamouscocktailorderofalltime.

Vodkaflourishedbythe1960sandoutpacedginasthemost-consumedclearspiritintheUnitedStates;tenyearslateritwouldeclipsebourbonasbest-sellingspirit,apositionthatitstillholdstoday.Injustafewshortdecades,vodkaforeverchangedthetrajectoryofAmericancocktailmixology.Sincevodkasneutralprofiletakesontheflavorofwhateveritismixedwith,thecoldwareracocktailsweresimpletomakeandeasytodrinktheperfectbeveragecomponenttoanationwhosefoodsystemhadbecomelargelyindustrializedandpalatebland.

Thelandscapeforbeveragesremainedbleakthroughoutthe1970sand80s,butduringthistime,thefoundationwasbeinglaidforwhatultimatelywouldresultinthecocktailandspiritrenaissancewhosethroeswecurrentlyoccupy.Whatisgoodforthekitchenisgoodforthebar,andsotheworkofnaturalfoodspioneerssuchasAliceWatershelpedcreatethespaceinwhichartisanalbeverageproducerswouldlaterflourish.Inthelate1980sand1990s,afewAmericanbartenders,notablyNewYorksDaleDeGroff,startedtoexcavatetraditionalrecipesandtechniquesthathadlargelydisappearedfromthemainstreamculture.

ThecocktailhasonceagainregainedadistinguishedplaceintheAmericanculinaryconversation.TheesteemedJamesBeardFoundationnowconfersitshonorsupontoptalentsnotjustinthekitchenbutalsobehindthebar.Anditisnowdifficulttofindanewchef-drivenrestaurantofanyworththathasnotgivenseriousconsiderationtoitscocktailmenu.

IfthenarrativeofAmericancocktailsandspiritshasmostlybeentoldfromacoastalperspective,Texasisfinallygettingitsdue.CocktailsandcocktailculturehavetraveledinwardfromsuchmarketsasSanFrancisco,Portland,andNewYorktosuchcitiesasAustinandSanAntonio;inthenextwavewewillseethesepeopleandconceptsexpandoutwardfromurbancorestothesuburbs.TwoofmyfavoritecocktaildensthathaveopenedinrecentyearsareWhiskeyCake(Plano)and400Rabbits(CircleC,Austin);bothoperatenotinhip,restoredwarehousedistrictsbutinsuburbanstripmalls.

Inasmuchasconsumerenthusiasmforcocktailshasskyrocketedinrecentyears,therehasalsobeenincreasedsophisticationontheproductionside.Moreartisanaldistillatesarenowontheshelfthanatanypointinmodernmemory.Craftdistillingisinfullbloom,withsmall-scaledistilleriesmakinganimpactforthefirsttimesincebeforeProhibition(thereareseveraldozenlicenseddistilleriesinTexas,upfromzerointhemid-1990s,whenTitoBeveridgestarteddistillinghislocalvodka).Craftbrewing,whichhadexperiencedaboominTexasinthe1990s,isgoingthroughanothergrowthspurtinAustin,withnearlyadozennewbreweriescomingonlineinasmanymonths.Almosteightyyearsafteritsrepeal,Prohibitioncontinuestounravel,withlocaloptionelectionsmakingmoreandmorecommunitiessafeforalcohol.Theranksofcocktailaficionados,bothamateurandprofessional,continuetoswellTexas,onceacocktailunderdog,nowrepresentsoneofthelargestsingle-statedelegationstoTalesoftheCocktail,theinternationalcocktailfestivalheldinNewOrleanseachsummer.Neveronetobeashrinkingviolet,Texasisfinallyonthemixologymap.

glasswareguide

Althoughglasswareisoftenanafterthoughttomanypeoplescocktailpreparation,itsimportantnottofallintothistrap.Theglassisthecostumeinwhichyourcocktailperformsyoumustmakesurethatyourdrinksareproperlywardrobed.

CocktailglassThisV-shapedglassiscommonlyreferredtoasaMartiniglass,andhasbeenaniconicsymbolofliquidmerrimentsinceatleastthemiddleofthetwentiethcentury.Unfortunately,theglasshaslostitswayoverthelastseveraldecades,asithasballoonedinsizetoaccommodateallmanneroffruitytinidrinksthatbearnoresemblancetotheclassicMartini.Aproperlysizedcocktailglassshouldbemadeofthinglasscrystalisnicewithouttherollededgearoundtherim,anditshouldholdnotmorethan6ouncesofliquid.Makesuretheglassisclear,soastoshowoffthebeautifulcocktailyouvecrafted.

HighballAhighballglassstraightsidedandcontaining10to12ouncesisgreatforgivinganupscalefeeltosimpleone-plus-onedrinkssuchasBourbon&Ginger.

CollinsglassLikeastretched-outhighballglass,aCollinsglassisperfectforitseponymouscocktailaswellasforMojitos,swizzles,andallmanneroftall,elegantdrinks.Holds12to14ounces.

CoupeThisround-bottomed,stemmedglassisgreatforclassicallyproportionedcocktails,especiallybigandboozynumbers.Coupesarealsoperfectlysuitedfoeggandeggwhitedrinks.Theyshouldaccommodateabout4ouncesofliquid.

RocksorOldFashionedglassAnOldFashionedglassshouldbeshort,squatty,andhaveafat,heavybasethatrequiresalittlebitofmuscletolift.Althoughitshouldbesizedat6to8ounces,itwillgenerallybeonlypartiallyfilled,witheitherashotofboozeontherocks,orwiththeglasssnamesakecocktail.

DoubleOldFashionedglassAsitsnameimplies,thisisagiantrocksglass,thoughperhapsnotquitetwiceasbigat10to12ounces.Itsgreatforgivingagrandiosefeeltoapourofneatspiritsorspiritsonagiantrock.ThedoubleOldFashionedglassisalsoperfectlysizedforfull-figurediceddrinkssuchastheTexasMaiTaiandElPepino.

JulepcupThissmallpewter,silver-plated,orsterlingsilvercupisastapleoftheSouthernsideboard.Themetalactsasaconductor,andthecupfrostsupasheatisdrawnoutofthewhiskeyandthejulepcools.Atypicaljulepcupholdsabout10ouncesofliquid.Inapinch,ahighballordoubleOldFashionedglassisperfectlysuitableformakingMintJulepsathomeajulepinthewrongglassisbetterthannojulepatall,sodontdespair.

PintglassApintglass,asitsnameimplies,shouldhold16ounces.Generally,pintglassesdonthavemuchuseintheactualserviceofcocktails,butareanessentialcomponentoftheBostonshaker.

Punchcup/bowlPunchbowlsareindispensibleforentertainingwithease,buttheydonthavetobecomplicated.Whetheryoupickyoursupatathriftstoreoramodernhomedecorboutique,dontbeshywithit.Ifyouhavefourpeople,thatisenoughtoconstituteapunchpartyinmybookyoudonthavetosaveitfortheholidayparty.

SnailOneofthehallmarksofthetikieraisthatincreatingtheirPolynesianfantasia,thetikipioneerscompletelyupendedtheglasswareprotocolofthecocktailbar.NolongerwoulditsufficetohavehighballsandOldFashionedandcocktailglasses.Thetikiloungeinventedawholenewvernacularthatincludedvolcanobowls,scorpionbowls,FogCuttermugs,andrumbarrelsallmadefromceramic.Ifyoutrollsecondhandstoresandonlineauctions,youcancomeupwithatreasuretroveoftikigear.Ialsoencourageyoutouseyourimaginationhereifitlookslikeitwantstoholdagianttropicalbeverage,goallin.Whetheritholdshalfapintorhalfagallon,makeitatiki.

PreppingGlassforServiceGlasswareshouldalwaysbepolishedcleanbeforeservice.Inmostinstancesitisappropriatetochilltheglass,toachievemaximumcoldnessforthecocktail.Thefreezeristheidealplacetochillaglass.Ifyoulackfreezercapacity,youcanchillaglassbyfillingitwithiceandwaterforaminutebeforepreparingthecocktail.

MeetYourGear

AlthoughIhavefoundmyselfincircumstancesthatrequiredmixingdrinksinthebottomofavase,usingaTabascobottleasamuddler,andstrainingtheresultingmasterpiecewithsomekindofundergarment,thereisnosubstituteforhavingthepropertools.Sometoolsareessential,someareoptional,andsomeareridiculous.Ihavementionedallherebutmadeanefforttosortthemout,atleastinmymind,inorderofimportance.Thegoodnewsisthatyoucanpurchasebasicversionsofmostoftheessentialtoolsatarestaurantsupplystoreorkitchenspecialtyretailereverythingyouneedtogetstartedwillrangebetweenthirtyandfiftydollars.Andyouhavetherestofyourlifetocollectalltheotherstuffthatyoudontneedbutcantlivewithout.

EssentialBarKit

ShakeroBostonshakerAninexpensiveandpracticaloption,theBostonshakerconsistsofapint-sizemixingglassandshakertin.Nicebecausethepartsareinterchangeablejustaboutanypintglassorshakertinwillworkwithanotherpintglassormixingtin.

oMetalonmetalAvariationonaBostonshaker,butmadewithtwometaltinsinsteadofmetalandglass.Astandardsetgenerallyconsistsofapairofshakertinssized18and28ounces.

oCobblerThethree-piecevarietyconsistsofabase,atopwithabuilt-instrainer,andacap.These

stylishshakersareverypopularinEuropeanandJapanesebars,lesssointheUnitedStates.AParisianshakerlookssimilartoacobblershaker,thoughitconsistsofonlytwopiecesanddoesnothaveabuilt-instrainer.

HawthornestrainerUsedforstrainingshakencocktailsfromashakertin.Thetighterthespring,thebetterthestrainingaction.

JulepstrainerUsedforstrainingstirredcocktailsfromamixingglass.

BarspoonForstirringcocktailsandfetchinggarnishesfromthejar.

JiggersForensuringconsistentresults,accuratepoursareessential.

MuddlerExpressingjuicefromcitrusfruitsorberries,orbruisingherbs.

ParingknifeEssentialforcuttingfruitandvegetablegarnishes.

CuttingboardPlasticboardsarenicebecausetheycangothroughthedishwasher.Ontheotherhand,woodenboardsarepretty,especiallytheverydurableonesmadefromTexasmesquite.

JuicesqueezerThehandheldcitrussqueezerisadequateforhomeuse;astandmodelisnecessaryforprofessionalapplications.

Fine-meshstrainerCatchesbitsoffruitorshardsoficethatmightcloudorclutteryourupcocktail.

ChannelknifeForpullinglongtwistsofcitrusfruitrinds.TheshallowertheV,thelesspithyouwillhaveinyourcocktail.

VegetablepeelerForremovingawidestripofcitruszest,whatissometimescalledalongitudinalorlatitudinalzestgarnish.

MatchesorlighterForflamingacitruszest,orlightingafriendsorcustomerscigarorcigarette.

WinetoolForcuttingfoilandremovingcorksfromwinebottles.

BarKit2.0

AllofthecomponentsofEssentialBarKitplus:

NutmeggraterForgratingnutmegorcinnamonontotikiandholidaydrinks.

TongsForhandlinggarnisheswithouttouchingthem.

MixingglasswithspoutAlthoughabasicpintglasswillgetthejobdone,thereisnothingsexierthanusinganetchedmixingglasswithaspout,asourcolleaguesdowaaaayacrossthepond(inJapan).

iSisodasiphonForcarbonatingwatertospritzintoacocktail,orforevencarbonatingthecocktailitself.

LewisbagandwoodenmalletTomakecrushedice.

Super-King-SizeDeluxeBarKitAtomizerFordispensingblastsofspiritsorbitterstoembellishthetopofadrinkwithanaromaticand/orvisualfinishsuchasbitters,absinthe,ormezcal.Foranextraflourish,youcanignitethespray,thoughyoumayhavetoincreasetheproofoftheliquidintheatomizerwithahigher-proofspirit(suchascask-strengthwhiskeyorhigh-proofrum)togetittoignite.Thistechniqueisespeciallyeffectivewhengarnishinganeggwhitecocktail.Justbesureyoudontdothisinthedirectionofanypeopleorfurniturethatmaybeinjuredbyflamingliquid;andkeepafireextinguisherhandy.Theatomizerisalsoaneffectivewaytoseasonaglass,aswhenyouseasonaSazeracglasswithabsinthe.Mistoisapreferredbrand(beforetheywererepurposedbycocktailbartenders,atomizersweremorecommonlyusedtosprayoliveoil).

Punchbowlandladle

Absinthefountain,glasses,andspoons

iSiwhippedcreamcanisterFormakingspecialtyfoamsforcocktails.

ChampagnestoppersForpreservingleftoverbubbly.

MicroplaneForgratingcitruszest.

BlueBlazermugsFormakingtheeponymousflamingdrinkthatmustbevolleyedbackandforthbetweentwosilvermugs,whileonfire.

SiliconeicetraysFormakinglargeorspecializedpiecesofice.

CigarcutterFortheconvenienceofyourcigar-smokingguestorcustomer.

Techniques

GarnishesThefunctionofagarnishismanifold.Firstandforemost,agarnishshouldbeautifythedrink.Likeawindowwithoutcurtains,agarnishlesscocktaillooksrathernaked.Second,thegarnishshouldcontributetotheflavorofthedrink.Itcaneitherdrawfromorcomplementflavorsalreadypresentinadrink,orprovidecontrastinapleasingway.Third,agarnishcontributesaromatothecocktailsothatevenbeforeyoutakethefirstsip,youhaveananticipationofwhatthedrinkisgoingtotastelike.

HerbsAlwaysusefreshherbs;itisokaytoevenkeepthemattachedtotheplantifyouhavethespace.Storethemincoolwaterorwrappedinamoisttowelintherefrigeratortoextendshelflife.Themostattractivesprigsandupperleavesshouldbeusedforgarnishes.Thelessbeauteousonescanstillbeusedtomakesyrups,orformuddling.Toopenupherbsfullaroma,givethemaquickspankbyclappingthemoncebetweenyourhands.

CitrusGarnishes:WholeFruitItisimportanttocutgarnishesasclosetoserviceaspossibletopreventtheirdryingoutandturningbrown.

oWheelsCitruswheelsarelatitudinalslicesofcitrusfruit,usuallylemonsandoranges.

oWedgesCitruswedgesareusedbothformuddlingatthebottomofadrinkandforgarnishingthetopofthedrink.

CitrusGarnishes:ExpressedCitrusPeelCitrus-zestgarnishesenhancethebeauty,aroma,andflavorofacocktailwithoutchangingthebalanceofthedrink,whichisaliabilitywithwhole-fruitgarnishes.Whenusingcitruspeels,yourgoalistoremovetheouterzestwithoutcapturingthebitterwhitepithintheprocess.Ifyouhavesteadyhands,aparingknifewilldothetrick.Althoughlessgraceful,agoodsharpveggiepeelerprovidesroughlythesameresults,moresafely.Ideally,positionthefruitnearthesurfaceoftheglassyouaregarnishing,makingsuretoaimthesprayofoilinthedirectionoftheglassasthebladecutsthroughthecitrusskin,itsendsoffaplumeoffragrantessentialoils.

oLemonpigtailTheclassicMartinigarnish,madebyrunningachannelknifearoundthelemon,andwrappingtheresultingtwistaroundabarspoonorotherobjecttotightenitscoils.

oCitrusstripUsingaparingknifeorveggiepeeler,takeoffastripofpeel,goinglongitudinallyfromonepoleofthefruittotheother.Theresultingtwistwillbeapproximatelythesizeandshapeofanadhesivebandageabout3/4inchwideby21/2incheslong,dependingonthesizeofthefruit.

oLemonororangecoinArounddiskofcitruspeelapproximatelythesizeofaquarter.

oCitrusequatorAsthenameimplies,acitrusequatorisapieceofpeelthatistakenfromthewaistofthefruit.ThesegarnishesaregreatforclassicCrustas,tiki-stylecocktails,anddrinksservedovercrushedice,astheycantakeuptheentirerimofaglass.

oFlamedcitruspeelPopularizedbyDaleDeGroff,thistechniqueinvolvesexpressingtheessentialoilofacitruspeelacrossaflame,thusgarnishingthesurfaceofthedrinkwithcaramelizedessentialoil(andprovidingabitofafireworksshow,whichisalwaysanicetouch).

Shaking,Stirring,Building,andSwizzling

ShakingandStirringThetwomostcommonmethodsforchillingacocktailarestirringandshaking.Wegenerallystircocktailswhentheyconsistonlyofspiritedingredientsliquors,liqueurs,bitters,fortifiedwines,andsoon.Whencitrus,muddledfruit,eggs,orcreamareinvolved,wealmostalways

shakethedrink.Formaximumcoldness(andshowmanship)itisagoodideatochillyourmixingglassesbeforeusingthem.Whetherstirringorshaking,itisimportanttorememberthatthesetechniquesservetwofunctions:First,tochill.Aproperlychilledcocktailmustbeverycold.Second,todilute.Dilutionisoftenviewedasabadthing,butwithacocktail,properdilutioniscriticalinashakenorstirredcocktail,theresultingbeveragewillgainanadditional25to30percentofvolumefromthemeltedice.Notenoughdilutionandyourdrinkistooboozy;toomuchanditsawaterymess.

oStirringStirringshouldpreferablybedoneinaclearglassmixingcontainersothatthepersonforwhomthedrinkisbeingmadecanbeholdthefullspectacle,whichisobscuredwhenyoustiradrinkinametalcontainer.Whenstirringwithlarge,coldice(suchasfromahomeicecubetrayorKOLD-DRAFTmachine),itisbesttomixinafewcrackedicecubes.Thiswillincreasethesurfaceareaoftheiceandthereforeincreasechillinganddilution.Alltoooften,astirredcocktailiseithernotcoldenough,notdiluteenough,orboth.Stirringallowsyoutochillanddiluteacocktailwithoutaffectingthedrinksclarity.Ifthetechniqueisexecutedproperly,thedrinkshouldpourinsilkythickribbonswithnoicechipsorbubbles.

oShakingShakingadrinkwillchillanddiluteitwiththeadditionalbenefitofagitatingitintoavigorousemulsion.Properlyshakendrinksshouldbelight,lively,andeffervescentwithaninfinitenumberoftinybubbles.

BuildingIfarecipesaystobuildacocktail,itreferstothepracticeofcraftingthedrinkdirectlyintheservingglass,asopposedtoinamixingglassorshakingtin.Thisisdonewithsimplehighballsandsomedrinksthataregoingtobeswizzled.

SwizzlingThetraditionalswizzlestickismadeofwoodandthoughthesearefortunatelyavailablenowthroughspecialtysuppliers,youcanaccomplishthebasictaskwithabarspoon.Submergetheswizzlestickpartwayintoyourbuiltcocktailandclaspbetweenthepalmsofyourhands.Movingyourpalmsbackandforthwillagitatetheswizzlestick,thuschilling,diluting,andinvigoratingyourcocktailintheprocess.

RollingSometimesIspecifythatthedrinkberolled.Thisinvolvespouringthecontentsofthedrink,plusice,backandforthafewtimesbetweentwomixingcontainers.ThistechniqueismostcommonlyusedwiththeBloodyMarybecausetheagitationofshakingsuchadrinkwouldgiveitanunpleasantlyfrothyhead.

MuddlingToooften,muddleddrinkssufferfrombeingoverlymuddled.Usethemuddlertoapplygentlepressuretoreleasearomaticsfromherbs;usealittlemorepressuretoreleasejuicefromcitruswedgesortocrushberries.Butdontoverdoit.

FinestrainingWhilepouringacocktailfromaBostonshakerintoacocktailglass,holdafine-meshstrainerbetweentheshakerandtheglass.Thiscatchesmuddledfruit,herbs,andotherparticlesthatyoudontwantcloudingupyourcocktail.

IceIdeally,cocktailiceshouldbeinbig,cold,drychunks,asthisallowsustochilladrinkaslongaspossiblebeforeitisoverlydiluted.Inreality,weareoftendealingwiththeicethatweweredealt;evenwithinferiorsmallweticetherearethingswecandotomaximizeitspotential.Alwaysstrainaway

anywaterthattheicemightbesittingin.Alwaysusefreshiceforeachdrinkyourestirringorshaking.Lastly,afterchillingadrink,alwayspourthedrinkoverfreshiceintheglassdontservetheusedicefromtheshakertin.Imagineiceashavingafiniteamountofchillingcapacitytogiveyou.Ifyouserveusedice,theicewillmeltbeforethedrinkerisdonewiththedrink,becauseithasalreadygivenupmostofitschill.

BigiceSometimessizereallydoesmatter,andwithiceitcandefinitelybetrue.Ifyouareadrinkerofwhiskeyontherocks,forexample,youknowthatoneortwolargeicecubesispreferabletoabunchofsmallonesbecausetheykeepyourwhiskeycoldwithoutoverlydilutingit.Certaincocktails,suchastheNegroni,lookfabulousoveroneortwogianticecubes.Thereisnowavarietyofinexpensivesiliconeicetraysforthispurpose.

CrushediceCrushediceisessentialforsuchdrinksastheMintJulep.ThebestwaytomakeitisusingaLewisbag.Fillthecanvasbagwithwholeiceandbeatitwithanicemallet,meattenderizer,heavymuddler,orrollingpinwhateveryouhavehandy.Ifyouneedtoholdcrushediceforanyamountoftime,storeitinaperforatedpanorcolandersothatmeltwatercanstrainoff.

PunchiceThepunchbowlisoneofthosesituationswherestandardicewilljustnotsuffice.Becausepunchsitsoutandisdrunkovertime,smallicewillmelttoofastdilutingthedrinktooquickly,andnotlastinglongenoughtokeepthepunchcold.Onlyaverylargeblockoficewillbothslowlydiluteandsteadilychillabowlofpunchovertime.Ifyouarefortunateenoughtohaveanicevendornearbywhowillsupplyyouwithblocksofice,thatisallwellandgood.Fortherestofus,itisnecessarytomanufactureitourselves.Thereareseveralwaystoaccomplishthis.Theeasiestistofillasiliconeloafpan,oraJell-Omold,withcoldwaterandfreezeitovernight.Thebeautyofthismethodisthatyoucanfreezesprigsofherbs,edibleflowers,orcitruswheelsintotheiceforbeautifuleffect.Youcanalsofillacleanpaperjuiceormilkcartonorplasticjugandplaceitinthefreezerovernight.Forservice,cutawaythecontainertorevealalarge,solidchunkofice.Acheatermethodifyouareinneedofalargechunkoficebuthaveforgottentodoitthenightbefore:Fillyourmoldwithstandardiceandthenfillwithwaterandplaceinthefreezer.Thiswillfreezeinacoupleofhoursasopposedtoovernight.Notideal,butwillgetthejobdone!

ACEOFSPADES

Thiscocktailcombinessomeofmyfavoriteearlysummerflavorsandisagreatreminderthattomatoesareinfactafruit.Blackberriesgivethecocktailastunningcolor,andthetomatobarelyperceptiblelendsitasupplemouthfeel.

5ripeblackberries

1smalltomatowedge,or1plumpcherrytomato

12ounceSimpleSyrup

1. 112ounces100%agavesilvertequila

12ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuiceLemontwist,forgarnish

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddletheblackberries,tomato,andsimplesyrup.Addthetequilaandlemonjuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassorserveoverice.Garnishwiththelemontwist.

DAISYVERDE

ThisDaisyvariationcomesfromTexasbartenderAdamHarris.Thepineapplecaramelcametohimbyaccident.Intheprocessofmakingpineapplesyrup,hewalkedawayfromthestoveandforgotaboutit;bythetimehereturned,hissyruphadreducedtoaniceworkablecaramelthatplayednicelywiththebutterscotchnotesinthetequila.

1(1-inch)chunkpoblanopepper,plus1sliceforgarnish

34ouncePineappleCaramel(recipefollows)

2ouncesElTesororeposadotequila

12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuicePinchofsalt

1to2ouncescarbonatedwaterMuddlethepoblanoandpineapplecaramelinthebottomofamixingglass.Addthetequila,limejuice,andsaltandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainontofreshiceinarocksglassandtopwithaspritzofcarbonatedwater.Garnishwiththepoblanoslice.

PINEAPPLECARAMEL

1cuppineapplejuice

1cupsugar

Combinetheingredientsinamedium-sizesaucepanovermediumheatandbringtoasimmer.Reduceuntiltheconsistencyreachesthatofathincaramel.

ARTHURWATSONSBLOODYMARY

Fornearlyhalfacentury,notedTexasinteriordesignerArthurPopeWatsonlivedwithhispartner,BobGarrett,inaFrench-inspiredmansionknownonlyastheChateau,perchedonabluffoverlookingdowntownAustin.NowintheshadowoftheFrankErwinCenter,thehousewasbuiltinthe1850sandwasoriginallyownedbythesister-in-lawofJamesBowie.ArthurandBobplayedhosttopoliticos,moviestars,andawhoswhoofAustinsocietyasfamousasthepricelessworksofartwerethecocktails,especiallyArthursBloodyMary.

BeforevodkagainedprominenceintheUnitedStates,therewasawell-knowncocktailcalledtheRedSnapper,basicallyaginBloodyMary.GordonswasthehouseginattheChateau.Chilepequins,alsoknownasbirdpeppersfortheirpropensitytosproutupunderpowerlines,growwildlyaroundcentralTexasandwerewelcomedontheChateaugrounds.Muddlingexpressestheoilfromthesefierypeppers,givingthiscocktailitsmemorablekick.

2chilepequinpeppers

12teaspoonpreparedhorseradish2ouncesgin

4ouncestomatojuice12ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

14ounceWorcestershiresauce

2dashesofTabascosauce

1ouncebeefconsomm

12teaspoonSrirachaSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Pinchofcelerysalt

Lemonwedge,forgarnish

Celerystick(withleaves),forgarnish

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethechilepequinpepperswiththehorseradish.Addalltheremainingingredientsexceptthelemonandcelerysticks,andfilltheglasswithice.Rollthedrink,pouringitafewtimesbackandforthbetweenanothermixingglassorshakertintochill.(ShakingaBloodyMarycanyieldastrangelyunappealinglyfrothydrink.)Strainthecontentsontofreshiceinapintglass.Garnishwiththelemonwedgeandcelerystick.

BLUERIBBON

Ifyouhavemembersofyourpartywhohaventyetwarmeduptogin,thisspringcocktailwillchangetheirminds.HendricksaddscucumberandrosetothetypicalbotanicalmixofLondondrygin,makingitperfectlysuitedforgardencocktails.

14cupblueberries3freshbasilleaves

4freshmintleaves

1barspoonSimpleSyrup

112ouncesHendricksgin12ounceLuxardomaraschinoliqueur12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuiceDropoflemonbitters

Lemontwist,forgarnish

Muddletheblueberries,twoofthebasilleaves,andthemintandsimplesyrupinthebottomofamixingglass.Addthegin,maraschinoliqueur,limejuice,andbittersandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Fine-strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththelemontwistandremainingbasilleaf.

CAIPIRINHA

ThenationalcocktailofBrazil,Caipirinhatranslatestosomethinglikelittlecountrydrink,likeahillbillycousintotheDaiquiri.TheCaipirinhaismadewithcachaa(pronouncedka-sha-sa),arusticBraziliancanespiritthatissimilartorhumagricole.Thedrinkspreparationisuniqueinacoupleofways.Itismadebymuddlingthelimewedges,whichreleasesnotjustthejuicebutalsotheessentialoil

fromtheskinandasmallamountofbitternessfromthepith.Additionally,itisoneoftheonlydrinksthatisservedwiththeicewithwhichitwasshaken.

12ounceSimpleSyrup,or1heapingtablespoonsuperfinesugar(notpowderedsugar)1lime,cutinhalf,coreremoved,slicedthinly(seepicture)

212ouncescachaa

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethesimplesyruporsugarwiththelimewedges.Addthecachaaandice.Givethedrinkaquickshakeofjustafewsecondstochill;adjustthesweetnesstoyourtaste.Transfertheentirecontentstoachilledrocksglass.

TechniqueTip:LimeWedges

Itseemstherearetwoprimaryschoolsofthoughtonhowtocutalimewedge.Thefirst,mostcommonmethodiswhatIcalltheGringoMethod.IntheGringoMethod,thelimeiscutinhalflongitudinally,andeachhemisphereiscutintothreeorfourwedges.(InavariationontheGringoMethod,thewholelimeiscutinhalfalongitsequator,andtheneachnorthsouthhemisphereiscutintoquarters.)TheothermethodIcalltheMexicanMethod,inwhichthefacesofthelimesarecutaway,leavingjustthecorebehind.Bothofthesemethodshavetheirmerits.TheGringowedgemakesforalovelygarnishwhenyoucutasmallnotchintheribandhangitontherimofaglass.(Thisisalsothepreferredwedgeshapeforthosewhodesiretosuckonalimewedgeaftershootingtequila.ItshouldbenotedthatI,havinggraduatedfromcollegebarsmanyyearsago,donotfallintothiscamp.SeeTequila.)Theproblem,however,iswiththatribitself.Inalime,muchofthefruitsbitternessresidesinthatribthatrunsdownthecenter.Ifyouregoingtobemuddlinglimewedges,aswithaCaipirinhaorMojito,itmightbebettertofollowtheMexicanmethodmorejuiceandlesspith.Regardlessofwhatmethodyoufollow,itisalmostalwaysadvisedtowaituntilyouneedthelimewedgetocutit,astheydontstorewell.Adried-out,brown-around-the-edgeslimewedgefailsbothatbeingsqueezedandatbeautifyingacocktail,thoughfartoooftenthisisthegarnishweget,exceptinthemoreforward-thinkingestablishments.

Gringocut

CANDELABRO

Piscoisagrapebrandy,generallyunaged,thatisclaimedbybothChileandPeruastheirnationalspirit.AlthoughbestknownasthebaseingredientforthePiscoSourcocktail,piscoisaversatilespiritthatcanbeusedinallmannerofdrinks.ThenameforthiscocktailwasnotinspiredbytheflamboyantpianistLiberace,whowasrarelywithouthiscandelabra;rather,byElCandelabro,anancientpetroglyphinthePeruvianAndes.Youmayneedtoadjusttheamountofsyrupdependingonhowsweetyourcantaloupeis.

112ouncespisco112ouncesfresh-pressedcantaloupejuice(ormuddle12cupdicedfreshcantaloupeintheglassbeforeshaking)12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuiceScant12ounceSimpleSyrup

12ounceCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange

Absinthe,forrinsingtheglass

Cucumberwheel,forgarnish

Combinethepisco,cantaloupejuice,limejuice,simplesyrup,andCointreauinamixingglasswithiceandshakevigorouslytochill.Rinseachilledcocktailglasswithabsinthe;strainthecocktailintotheseasonedglassandgarnishwiththecucumberwheel.

CANTALOUPE

Texascantaloupesareintheirpeakseasonrightintheheatofsummer.Whentheyareripe,theyarejuicy,sweet,andsofragrantyoucansmellripecantaloupethroughtheirskin.Throughthemagicofmodernagribusiness,cantaloupesarenowavailableyear-round,eveniftheirflavormaysuffer.Agreenorunderripecantaloupewillnotbesweetandjuicyforcocktailpurposes,sosweetnessmustbeadjustedtocompensate.

Foruseincocktails,cantaloupecaneitherbemuddledorjuiced.Ifyouremakingindividualcocktails,muddlingistheexpeditiousroute.However,whenmakingseveralorforagroup,itisbesttojuicethefruit.Apulpextractorjuiceristheeasiestwaytojuiceacantaloupe.Youmayalsouseablender:Trimandcutripecantaloupeandblendinablenderwiththesmallestamountofwaternecessarytokeepthecontentsmoving.Strainthroughafine-meshstrainertoremovethepulp.Allowthejuicetosettleandstrainoffanyfoamyportion.

SONORA

ChrisBostickisaTexasbartenderwhocuthisteethatAustinsfamousFondaSanMiguelrestaurantbeforegoingwesttoplyhistradeinLosAngeles.BackinTexas,oneofhisfavoritecocktailsistheSonora.Igrewupeatingcantaloupewithmygrandfather,whodcrackfreshblackpepperoveritbeforeweatethefreshfruit,heexplained.And,ofcourse,inTex-MexicoalotofpeopleeatitwithasqueezeofcitrusandMexicanchilepowders.Havinggrownupwithit,cantaloupetomeisaquintessentialpartofsummerrefreshmenthereincentralTexas.

12cupchoppedcantaloupe12ouncedemerarasyrup

2ouncesElTesoroplatatequila

12ounceGrandMarnier

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice

14teaspoonchiledearbolpowderEdiblemarigold,forgarnish

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethecantaloupeanddemerarasyrup.Addthetequila,GrandMarnier,limejuice,andchiledearbolpowderandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Finelystrainintoachilledcoupeglass.Garnishwiththeediblemarigold.

ORANGELIQUEURS

Youdonthavetosleuththroughtoomanycocktailrecipesbeforetheinevitablequestionarisesofwhatthedifferenceisbetweenthevarioustypesoforangeliqueurs.Thecategoriesareatbestvague,thoughsomecharacteristicsareconstant:

CURAAO

TheseliqueursdatebacktotheageofDutchimperialism.TheDutchbecameproficientinproducingadistillateflavoredwithdriedorangepeelsfromtheDutchCaribbeanislandofCuraao.Curaaosareusuallybrandy-basedandmaybeblendedwithagedbrandyorcognacandflavoredwithorangeandotherspices,suchasvanilla,anise,andcoriander.TheproductthatmostresembleshistoriccuraaocomesfromFrenchcognachousePierreFerrand,whichproducesabrandy-baseddrycuraaothatisdistilledwithspicesandorangepeelsandblendedwithagedcognac.GrandMarnierandMarieBrizardareprominentcommercialbrands.Curaaosarebestsuitedforcocktailsmadewithagedspirits.

TRIPLESEC

Good-qualitytriplesecisgenerallymadefromaneutralgrainspiritorsugarbeetdistillate,asisthecasewithCointreau,themostfamousmemberofthiscategory.Therearenonalcoholictriplesecs,whichshouldbeavoided.Secmeansdry,anodddescriptorforaliqueur,thoughincomparisontocuraao-styleliqueurs,triplesecmayseemlighterbodiedandlesssweet.Becausethespiritisdistilledafterinfusion,triplesecsareclearincolorandtendtohaveapureorangeflavoruncorruptedbyotherbotanicalsoragedspirits.Triplesecsaregreatforcitrus-basedcocktailsandcocktailsmadewithunagedspirits.

PAULASTEXASORANGE

PaulasTexasOrangehasbeenmadeinAustinsince2006byPaulaAngerstein,thefirstwomandistillerinthestateandownerofthesecondlegaldistilleryinTexas.Itismadewithaneutralgrainbasespiritthatismaceratedwithfreshorangepeels,thensweetenedwithcanesugar.Itismoreakintoanorangecellothanacuraaoortriplesec,asthespiritisnotredistilledaftermaceration.Ithasaverybright,cleanorangeflavorthatworksgreatinMargaritasandsimplecocktails.

PaulaAngerstein

PAULASTEXASSPIRITS

PaulaAngersteinwasborninMeyersville,atinytownoutsideofthesmalltownofCueroinsouthTexas.AftergraduatingfromCueroHigh,sheleftforthecityanduniversitylifeatUTAustin.Likemanycollegestudents,sheremainedundeclaredforaslongasshecould,LimoncelloStudiesnotevencrossinghermindatthetimeasapossiblecareerpath.EventuallyshetookajournalismclassandajobattheDailyTexanandfoundhermajor.Angersteinsaidthat,unfortunately,inthe1980s,Ilookedaroundandallofmyjournalismbuddieswhodgraduatedwereoutofwork.SoIdecidedtodouble-majorincomputerscience.

Thesummeraftergraduation,Angersteinspentthebestsixhundreddollarsofherlifeandembarkedonafifty-five-dayEuropeanadventure,onagrouptourthattookheralloverthecontinent.WhenshelaterreturnedtotheStates,herdecisiontodouble-majorwouldbefortuitousandprovidedtheperfectskillsetforajobinthefieldoftechnicalwriting.Eventuallyshegotintoprogramming,andhercareerinthesoftwarefieldtookhertoSouthernCalifornia,and,ofcourse,backtoEurope.Inthelate1980sshebegantravelingabroadregularlyforwork,firsttoHamburgandParis,andeventuallytoWindsor,England,whereshelivedforacoupleofyearsintheearly1990s.ItwasduringthistimethatshefellinlovewithPaul,whohasbeenherpartnerincrimeeversince.TogethertheyfellinlovewithItaly,whenalast-minutevillareservationinTuscanyledtoamagicalweekduringtherunningofthefamousIlPalioraceinSienna.

TheyweresoenamoredofTuscanythattheyvowedtoreturneveryyearfortherestoftheirlivesapromisetheyhavekepttothisday,withonlyafewexceptions.AngersteinisquicktopointoutthatshehasnotalwaysbeendialedintothefoodoftheItaliankitchen.IwassixteenthefirsttimeIhadpizza,shereminisced,andthatwaswhenPizzaHutcametoCuero.

SohowdidaprogrammerwithaloveofEuropebecomethefirstfemaledistillerinTexas?WelearnedaboutlimoncelloduringourtripstoItaly,Angersteinrecalled.Thenyearslater,mysistergavemea

recipeshefoundinamagazineforhowtomakeitathome.Weoriginallyjustdiditforourselvesandforfriendsandfamily.WhenAngersteindecidedshewantedtomakelimoncelloprofessionally,shegotafriendlywordofadvicethatchangedthecourseofherbusiness.AttheadviceofRussellSmith,wedecidedtomakeorangeliqueurfirst.TexasisaMargaritamarket,andyoucantmakeaMargaritawithoutagoodorangeliqueur.InFebruary2005,AngersteinreleasedPaulasTexasOrange,thefirstorangeliqueurtobemadeinTexas.InOctober2006,shefollowedthatupwithPaulasTexasLemon.Thetimingcouldnthavebeenbetter,asAngersteinlaunchedatthebeginningofwhatwouldbecomeadelugeoflocalspiritsandanappreciationforlocalproductsingeneral.

WhileAngersteinisknownprofessionallyasthefirstladyofTexasspirits,sheisknownpersonallyastheconsummatehostess.ThepartiesatPaulandPaulashousearelegendary,tobesure,butaweeknightdinnerforthemisnolessimpressive.Shetracesherhospitalityskillsbacktothegoodstandardcountrylivingofherchildhood.TheLutheranChurchpotluckswerethebigshow.Everybodybroughtspecialtiesthattheywerefamousforthebarwasprettyhigh.Womenservedwinericeandblack-eyedpeas,whilethemensmokedbrisket.Whatevertheoccasion,Angersteiniscertaintomakesurethereisnoshortageofrefreshments.OurfavoritewaytoenjoyPaulasTexasOrangeisinthePaulasMargarita.AndPaulasLemon,pulledstraightfromthefreezer,isagreatwaytocapoffasummermeal.

CORPSEREVIVER3000

CorpseReviverswereonceacategoryofdrinks,whatmightnowbecategorizedashairofthedogcocktails.ThemostfamousoftheseistheCorpseReviverNo.2,ofwhichHarryCraddockwroteinhis1930SavoyCocktailBook,Fourofthesetakeninquicksuccessionwillunrevivethecorpseagain.Bytheendofthetwentiethcentury,No.2wastheonlyCorpseReviveranyonecouldremember,ifinfacttheyknewanyatall.InthisvariationonNo.2,absinthereplacesthegin,andSt-GermainfillsinforLilletaCorpseReviverofthefuture.

34ounceTenneysonAbsintheRoyaleorotherblancheabsinthe34ounceSt-Germainelderflowerliqueur

34ounceorangeliqueur(weusedPaulasTexasOrange;Cointreaualsoworkswell)

34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuiceOrangecoin,forgarnish

Combinetheabsinthe,St-Germain,orangeliqueur,andlemonjuiceinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeorangecoin.

ABSINTHE

Inthehistoryofspirits,thechapteronabsintheisperhapsthemostmystifying.Inthespanofabouttwohundredyears,absinthewentfromrelativeobscuritytomuseofthebelleepoquetoscapegoatfortheillsofindustrialization.Demonized,banned,fetishized,andre-legalizedwhatisallthefussabout?

AbsinthetakesitsnamefromArtemesiaabsinthium,thescientificnameforgrandwormwood.Wormwoodhasbeenusedsinceancienttimesforitspurportedanthelminticqualities.Wormwood,anise,andfennelarethecorebotanicalsinabsinthe,whichemergedinthelateeighteenthcenturyaroundthesmallSwissvillageofCouvet,neartheFrench-Swissborder.Likemanyherbalspirits,absinthehasitsrootsintheearlyEuropeanapothecarytraditionofdistillingplantsroots,stems,herbs,flowers,barks,andsooninalcoholfortheirpurportedpharmacologicalbenefits.

Absinthegainedpopularityintheearlypartofthenineteenthcentury,withnosmallthankstotheFrenchmilitary,whichissueditasanantimalarialtosoldiersfightingabroad.AbsinthegotanotherboostwhentheFrenchwineindustrywasdevastatedbythegrapevinepestPhylloxerainthe1860sand70s.Withcheapwinetemporarilyunavailable,drinkersturnedtoothersourcesforspiritedamusement,andnosmallnumberofthemturnedtoabsinthe.Absinthewasparticularlypopularamongstthewritersandartistsofthebelleepoque,andfiguresprominentlyinpaintingsbyDegas,Picasso,VanGogh,andothers.

Thewineindustrywasnonetoopleasedwiththisdevelopment,andwhenthevineyardsrecovered,theindustrylaunchedacampaigntoreclaimsaleslosttoabsinthedrinkers.ThetemperancemovementthatwasafootonAmericanshoreswouldneverhavebeencapableofbanningallalcoholfromFrenchcommercebecausewineproductioninthatcountryisdeeplyimbeddedintheirculturalheritage.Butitfoundawillingpartnerinthewineproducers,andtogethertheywereabletocreateadistinction:Winewasnatural,agricultural,traditional,andhealthful.Absinthe,ontheotherhand,wasindustrial,foreign,newfangled,andtoxic.

Thecaseagainstabsinthewasassistedbysomejunkscienceoftheperiod:Wormwoodcontainsthecomponentthujone,whichwasrumoredtohavepsychoactiveorotherdeleteriousproperties.Physiciansconjuredupthediseaseabsinthism,whichwasmorelikelyjustgoodold-fashionedalcoholismdressedupforpoliticalpurposes.Aseriesofunfortunatelytimed,sensationalistabsinthemurdersdrovethefinalnailintoabsinthescoffin.TheSwisswerethefirsttobanabsinthein1910,theAmericansfollowedsuitin1912,andfinallytheFrenchclosedthebooksonabsinthein1914.Triedforacrimeitdidnotcommitandfoundguiltyinthecourtofpublicopinion,absinthewasoutlawedinjustaboutanyplaceithadbeenrelevant.

IfnotfortheeffortsofafewabsintheevangelistssuchasTedBreaux,absinthemighthavestayedforeverinhistorysdustbin.ButtheeffortsofBreauxandotherspaidoff,astheyprovedthatabsinthewasnotdangeroustoyourhealthatleastnotmoresothananyotheralcoholicbeverage.Thelong-standingbanwaslifted,andfinallyin2007,authenticFrenchabsinthewasimportedagaintotheUnitedStatesforthefirsttimeinalmostacentury.

ABSINTHEUSE

Theclassicwayabsinthewouldhavebeenenjoyedinthebelleepoquewasinatraditionaldrip:About1ounceofspiritispouredintoanabsintheorPontarlierglass.Ifsugarisdesired,aperforatedspoonisplacedacrossthemouthoftheglass,andasugarcubeisplacedonthespoon.Waterisslowlydrippedor

pouredoverthesugarcube,whichdissolves(withhigh-qualitymodernabsinthes,sugarisnotnecessaryunlesspreferredbythedrinker).

Asthewatercontentrisesintheglass,theabsintheundergoesavisualchangefromtransparentgreentoopaquejade,inwhatisknownasalouche(pronouncedloosh).Theloucheeffectiscausedbyessentialoilsfromthedistilledherbs(specificallyasubstanceknownastrans-anethol,presentinallanise-flavoredspirits)thataresolubleinalcoholbutinsolubleinwater.Aswaterisaddedtotheglass,thealcoholconcentrationdecreases,andanetholprecipitatesoutofthesolution,thusgivingtheappearanceofcloudingtheliquid.Althoughabsintheisthemostnotoriousofthespiritsthatlouche,itisnottheonlyone:AllmannerofaniseandherbalspiritsfoundaroundtheMediterraneanwillundergotheprocess,somemoresubtlythanothers.

ThereismuchritualassociatedwiththeabsinthedripandwhileImyselfenjoyalltheaccoutrements,youdonotneedtoamassacollectionofabsinthe-specificgeartoenjoyabsinthe.Atitsmostbasic,youonlyneedsomekindofglasstodrinkitfrom,andsomekindofvesseltopouricedwaterfrom.

Beforeabsinthesban,itwasawell-knowncocktailingredient,thoughfrequentlyitwasusedonlyindashes,drops,andrinsesmoreofacocktailseasoningthanthemainshow.TheSazeracisthemostfamousofthese,thoughatthispointintime,theSazerachasbeenmadewithHerbsaint,ananiseliqueur,formoreofitshistorythanithasbeenwithauthenticabsinthe.Youwillfindanumberofrecipesinthisbookthatfeatureabsintheaseitherthemainspiritorbestsupportingactor.Specifically,IhaveusedTenneyson,ablancheabsinthemadeatthehistoricEmilePernotdistilleryinPontarlier,France,foranAustin-basedspiritscompany.Tenneysonutilizestraditionalabsintheherbsbutalsoincorporatestypicalginbotanicalssuchasjuniperandlemonpeel.Itsgin-reminiscentprofileandcomparativelylowproof(106proof,or53percentalcoholbyvolume)makeitaperfectspiritformixingcocktails.

ABSINTHESTYLES

Verteabsinthes,truetotheirname,aregreenincolor.Likealldistilledspirits,absinthecomesoffthestillclear.Verteabsinthesundergoasecondaryherbalinfusionthatgivesabsintheitsfamouscolor.

Blancheabsinthesareclearoutofthebottle,andbecomewhitewhentheyarelouched.ThisstyleiscommonofSwissabsinthe,andissometimesknownaslableue,especiallywhentheabsintheismadeclandestinely,asmuchofitwasinabsinthesheartlandduringabsinthesalmostcentury-longbaninSwitzerland.

Bohemianistheeuphemismusedtodescribeabsinthesthatdeemphasizetheaniseprofileandaregenerallycold-compoundedwithessencesdissolvedinhigh-proofalcohol.Thistypifiestheno-eabinsthsthatstartedcomingoutoftheCzechRepublic(whereabsinthewasneverbanned),themostfamousofwhichwastheHillsbrand.Bohemianabsinthesplayedanimportantroleinrenewinginterestinabsinthe,though,unfortunately,theytendtolackthenuanceandeleganceoftraditionaldistilledabsinthe.

DAIQUIRI

TheDaiquiriisoneofthegreat,misunderstoodclassiccocktails.Itsoriginalformulaisalmostimpossiblysimple:rum,lime,andsugar.Itwascreatedinlate-nineteenth-centuryCubainthedaysshortlyaftertheSpanish-AmericanWarandgainedpopularityinthebarsofHavanabeforetraveling,according

tolegend,toWashingtonDCsArmyandNavyClubviaAdmiralLuciusJohnson.TheversionsfoundintheDaiquirishacksofAmericasbeachtowns,chainrestaurants,andcollegetowns,andonthestreetsofNewOrleansbearlittleresemblancetotheelegantCubanclassic.ForgetDaiquirimixes.Allyouneedareafewlimes,somesugar(preferablyarawtype,butthewhitestuffworks),andgoodrum.TheclassicDaiquiriwouldhavebeenmadewithdrywhiterum,butthedrinkisalsofabulouswithyourfavoriteagedrumorwitharhumagricole.

2ounceswhiterum

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice

1ounceSimpleSyrup

Limewheel,forgarnish

Combinetherum,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Adjusttheamountofsyruptotaste.Strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththelimewheel.

FIGDAIQUIRI

Thereisasexinesstofigsthatbordersontheobscene;nowondertheirleaveswereusedbycensorsofancientarttocover,ahem,objectionableparts.FigsgrowespeciallywellincentralTexas,ifyoucankeepthemawayfromthesquirrelsandothercritterslongenoughtoletthemripenforpicking.Thetasteoffreshfigswhenyoueatthemrawisnotjustfruity,butalsoearthy,vegetal,andprimordial.Whenusedincocktails,theirsweetnesscomesforwardanynumberofclassiccocktailscanbenefitfromtheadditionofafewripefigs.

4smallor2largeripefigs,stemsremoved,cutinhalf,plus1wholefigforgarnish34ounceSimpleSyrup

2ounceswhiterum

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethehalvedfigsandsimplesyrup.Addtherumandlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Adjusttheamountofsyruptotaste.Fine-strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththewholefig.

AGRICOLEDAIQUIRIWITHFRESHPEACH

TheDaiquiriissuchasimplecocktail,itservesasagreatplatformforexperimentation.Changingaroundthebasespiritandsourceofsweetnesscanresultinsomesurprisinglydeliciousvariations.Hererhumagricole(below)replacesmolassesrum,anditsvisceral,vegetalqualitiesplaynicelywithsweet-tartpeaches.

1smallor12largeripepeach,diced,plus1peachsliceforgarnish34ounceSimpleSyrup

2ouncesrhumagricole

4dropsBitterTruthJerryThomassOwnDecanterBitters

34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethepeachandsimplesyrup.Youmayneedtoadjusttheamountofsyrupdependinguponhowsweetyourpeachis.Addtherhumagricole,bitters,andlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Fine-strainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththepeachslice.

RHUMAGRICOLE

FromtheFrenchislandsintheWestIndies,specificallyMartinique,comesauniquestyleofrumknownasrhumagricole.Whereasmostrumismadefrommolasses,aby-productofthesugar-refiningprocess,rhumagricoleismadefromfresh-pressedsugarcanejuice,harvestedlocallytothedistillery.Theresultingspiritisearthy,grassy,vegetal,andherbaceousnottomentionpricey.ThequalityofMartiniquerhumisassuredbytheFrenchgovernmentthroughanAppellationdOrigineContrle(AOC),oraprotectedappellationoforigin,forrhumsthatmeetcertainstandardsofproduction.Asaresult,AOCRhumMartiniquemustadheretostandardsofproductionandconsistencyasrigorousasthoseforotherAOCproducts,suchasCognac,Armagnac,andChampagne.

ELPEPINO

ThereisanunfortunatetendencytopigeonholeanytequiladrinkasbeingsomekindofMargaritajusttakealookatthemenuatyourfavoriteTex-Mexrestaurant,andtheremaybeadozenMargaritavariationsonthemenu.Inreality,tequilaisaversatilespiritanddeservestoberecognizedbeyondits(considerable)contributiontotheMargarita.Onahotdayyoudbehardpressedtofindacocktailmorerefreshingthanthiscombinationoftequila,coolmint,andcucumber.

13cupfreshdicedcucumber1ounceMintSyrup(recipefollows)2ounces100%agavesilvertequila

12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuiceFreshmint,forgarnish

Cucumberspear,forgarnish

Mezcal(optional)

Inthebottomofamixingglass,muddlethecucumberandmintsyrup.Addthetequilaandlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.StrainintoadoubleOldFashionedglassfilledwithcrushedice.Garnishabundantlywithfreshmintandacucumberspear.Optional:Floatasmallamountofmezcalontopofthecocktailtoaddasmokyaroma.

MINTSYRUP

1cuprawsugarorevaporatedcanejuice

1cupfilteredwater

1cuppackedfreshmintleaves

Inasaucepan,bringthesugarandwatertoasimmer.Addthemintandallowittoinfuseuntilaprominentmintflavordevelops,about10minutes.Strainoutthemintandallowthesyruptocool.Storerefrigeratedforupto1month.

TEQUILA

TexasisoneofthelargestmarketsfortequilaconsumptionintheUnitedStates.Texanspracticallygrowupdrinkingthestuffandhaveaspecialloveaffairnotjustwithtequila,butwithitshomelandaswell.Itisasiftequilasymbolizesacarefreelifehoweverfar-fetchedthatweimagineinoldMexico.Butthisbonhomiebeliesthemuchmorecomplexrealityoftequilaproductionthesocial,agricultural,ecological,andeconomicimplicationsbehindthebeveragewithwhichwelubricateourmemories.

TequilastartswiththeWeberBlueagave.Amemberofthelilyfamily,WeberBlueisoneofhundredsofagavesthatgrowinMexico,buttheonlyoneallowedintequilaproduction.Afterasmuchassixtoadozenormoreyearsintheground,theplantsareharvestedbytrimmingofftheouterleaves,thepencas.Whatisleftisthepia,sonamedforitsresemblancetoatrimmedpineapple.Piasaretransportedtothedistillery,wheretheyareroastedinclaybrickovens.Onceroasted,agavesarecrushedandthefiberswashedwithwatertoyieldaguamiel(honey-water).Yeastisaddedtothiscombinationofwaterandagavesugarstostartfermentation,wherebystarchesareconvertedtoalcohol.Thefermentedmostomakesitswaytothestill,whereitwillpassthroughtwotimes(tequilaisdistilledatleasttwotimesbylaw,sometimesmore).Thefirstdistillationresultsinlow-proofordinario;aftertheliquidisdistilledthe

secondtime,itisknownastequila.

Alltequila,bydefinition,mustbedistilledinMexicofromagavesthataregrowninthefive-stateareathatcomprisestheDenominacindeOrigendeTequila.Tequilafallsintotwoprimarycategories.Thefirst,andfinest,is100%agave,whichmeansthatallofthesugarisfromagaveonly,andthatthetequilamustbebottledinMexico.Most100%agavetequilaissoldunagedandisidentifiedasplata,orsilver(platatequilascanbeagedforuptotwomonthsinwood,thoughmostarenot).Tequilathatisagedfortwototwelvemonthsinoakbarrelsiscalledreposado(rested),andwhenitisagedforonetotwoyears,itisknownasaejo.Thereisanewercategoryoftequilascalledextra-aejotheseareagedformorethantwoyears.

Thelargercategoryiswhatwecallmixto(knowninMexicoastequilaregular),whichmeansitisablendofsugarsfromagaveandothersources,suchascaneandgrain.So-calledgoldtequilaisunagedmixtotequilathatisalsoknownasjovenabocado(youngandsmoothed).Generallyatequilaissmoothedbyageinanoakbarrel,butgoldtequilacomesbyitssmoothnesswiththeadditionofcaramelandotherflavorings,whichgiveittheappearanceandsensationofhavingbeenaged.Mixtotequilabylawmustcontainonlyaminimumof51percentagavesugarandcanbesoldinbulkandbottledinothercountries.

Tequilaconsumptionhassoaredinrecentyears,andwiththatdemandcomesanumberofchallenges.Becauseagavestakemanyyearstomatureasmuchaseighttotenyearsisnotuncommonitisdifficulttopredictwhattequilaconsumptionisgoingtobelikebythetimetheagavesarereadytobeharvested.Sothefarmersbasicallyhavetoguessontheamounttheyplant.

Agavesarepropagatedfromlittleoffshootscalledhijuelosthataregeneticclonesoftheparents.Theplantsdontcross-pollinate,whichweakensthemagainstdiseasesandpests.Themoreprofoundthreattotraditionaltequilahastodowithchangestotheproductionprocess.Technologicaladvancescanincreaseyieldbyasmuchas3percent;however,theycanalsobeusedtoincorporatechemicalsintoaonceorganicprocess.Thepopularityoftequilahasalsoledtomultinationalcorporationsscoopingupdistilleries.Asfacilitiesindustrialize,theresultingtequilascanchange,becominglesstraditional,lighter,lessvegetal,and,inaway,lesstequila-y.

FACUNDOSFIX

ImadethiscocktailfortheBacardiLegacycompetition.MygoalwastocreateacocktailinthemoldofthegreatBacardilegacydrinkssuchastheDaiquiriandtheMojito.

112ouncesBacardiSuperiorrum34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice34ounceBenedictine1barspoonSimpleSyrup

Flamedlemonpeel,forgarnish

Combinetherum,lemonjuice,Benedictine,andsimplesyrupinamixingglasswithiceandshakevigorouslytochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeflamedlemonpeel.

FLORDEPIA

Mostpeoplethinkoftikiandimmediatelythinkofrum.Buttiki-eracocktailswereasdiverseasthebartenderswhomadethem.Aslongastheycapturedtheessenceofthetropics,tikidrinkscouldbemadewithanythingfromgintobrandytoabsinthe.Wehonorthattraditionherewiththistequilatikidrink.

112ounces100%agavesilvertequila34ounceSt-Germainelderflowerliqueur

1ouncepineapplejuice

12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice12ounceCanelaSyrup

Pineapplewedge,forgarnish

Combinethetequila,elderflowerliqueur,pineapplejuice,limejuice,andcanelasyrupinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoatikimugfilledwithcrushedice.Garnishwiththepineapplewedge.

CANELASYRUP

1cuprawsugar,processedsugar,orevaporatedcanejuice

1cupfilteredwater

2largeMexican-stylecinnamonsticks(soldascanelaintheMexicangrocerysection)

Inasaucepan,bringthesugarandwatertoasimmer.Breakupthecinnamonsticksandaddtothepan;allowtoinfuseuntilaprominentcinnamonflavordevelops,about15minutes.Strainoutthecinnamonsticksandallowthesyruptocool.Storerefrigeratedforupto1month.

GIMLET

TheGimletholdsaspecialplaceinmyheart,asitwasoneofthefirstgrown-updrinksIeverlearnedtoorder,onceIwasoldenoughandhadthesensibilitytodrinkinestablishmentsthatutilizedvesselsotherthandisposableplasticcups.Unfortunately,asIlearnedmoreabouttheroleoffreshandnaturalingredientsincocktails,theGimletsappealbegantowane,duetotheproblematicnatureofoneofitstwoingredients:RosesLimeJuice.Rosesbeganitslifeinthelatenineteenthcenturyasalimecordiallimejuicepreservedwithenoughsugartokeepitfresh,especiallyacrosslongoceanvoyages.Acenturylater,however,thefamouscordialhadlostmuchofitsluster,andthemodernversionavailableintheUnitedStatescontainsartificialcolorsandartificialflavors,andissweetenedwithhigh-fructosecornsyrup(inothercountriesitmaystillbemadewithcanesugar).Somebartendersrespondedby

makingGimletswithfreshlimejuiceandsugar;whereasthiscombinationmightmakeaperfectlydelightfultipple,aGimletitisnot.Bytraditionandbydefinition,theGimletismadewithpreservedlimejuice.Theanswertothisdrinkersdilemmaistomakeyourownlimecordial,whichhasmuchmorecomplexitythanthesimplemarriageoflimejuiceandsugar,andwillgivenewlifetothisturn-of-the-centuryclassic.Althoughtraditionallymadewithgin,theGimletisalsooftenmadewithvodka,too.

212ouncesgin2ounceshouse-madeLimeCordial

Limewheel,forgarnish

Combinetheginandlimecordialinamixingglass.Shakevigorouslywithicetochill,thenstrainintoachilledcocktailglass.Garnishwiththelimewheel.

LIMECORDIAL

Makesabout212cups

1dozenmedium-sizeripePersianlimes

About112cupssugar

Washthelimesinwarmwatertoremovetheproducewax.Allowtodry.

Placethe112cupssugarinamixingbowl.Usingavegetablepeeler,carefullyremovetheveryoutermostzestfromthelimes,takingoffaslittlepithaspossible.Asyouremovethezest,makesurethattheactionisdirectedoverthebowl,sothatthesugarmayabsorbasmuchexpressedoilaspossible.Itis,afterall,theessentialoilintheskinthatisthelimesmostprizedpossession.Afterallofthezesthasbeenaddedtothesugar,useamuddlertogentlypressthezestintothesugar;theabrasionwillallowtheessentialoilinthezesttobereleasedintothesugar.Setasideandallowtoinfuseforabout30minutes.

Meanwhile,cutthelimesinhalfandjuicethem,takingcaretostrainthroughafine-meshstrainer.Measurethelimejuiceandaddenoughsugartothebowlsothattheamountofsugarbyvolumeisequaltotheamountoflimejuicebyvolume(e.g.,ifthereare2cupsoflimejuice,add12cupofsugartotheexistingamountinthebowl).Addthelimejuicetothesugarandstircontinuouslyuntilallthesugarisdissolved,leavingthelimezestinthesyrup.Coverandstoreintherefrigerator.After6to8hours,tastethecordial.Ifitistoyourliking,strainoutthelimezestandbottle.Formorecomplexflavor,leavethezestinovernight.Storerefrigeratedforupto1month.

HOTSUMMERNIGHT

In2007,HoustonnativeMindyKucanwonaninternationalcocktailcompetitionamongstHiltonHotelsbartenderswiththiscocktail.HeraccomplishmenthelpedputTexasbartendersonthemapinthoseearlydaysofthecraftcocktailrevivalintheseparts.AttheurgingoflegendarybarmanTonyAbou-Ganim,andwiththehelpofaneagergroupofbartenders,in2008shefoundedtheAustinchapteroftheUnitedStatesBartendersGuild,thefirstchapterinTexas.

34ounceHoneySyrup(recipefollows)

2sprigsfreshthyme

34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

112ouncesTitosHandmadeVodka12ouncePaulasTexasLemon(orlimoncelloifyouareoutssideTexas)

1ouncenaturallemonorlemon-limesoda

Lemonwheel,forgarnish

Combinethehoneysyrup,onethymesprig,andthelemonjuice,vodka,andPaulasTexasLemoninamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Fine-strainintoaCollinsglasswithfreshice.Topwiththelemonsodaandgarnishwiththesecondthymesprigandthelemonwheel.

HONEYSYRUP

Honeyisafabulouscocktailingresdientanddatestoancienttimesasasweetenerforbeverages.Unfortunately,youcantusehoneyas-is,straightoutofthejar,asiceandhoneydontmix.Instead,makeasyrupofequalpartshotwaterandhoney.Itwillnotonlypourmoreeasilythanstraighthoney,itwillalsodissolvemorereadilyintoyourcocktail.Storeitcoveredintherefrigeratorforuptotwoweeks.

GOLDENGATESWIZZLE

ThiscocktailcomesfromHoustonbartenderMattTanner.AlthoughitcontainsafullounceandahalfofFernetBranca,theheadyItalianamaro(digestif),thiscocktailwasmadetobearefreshingintroductiontothatsometimes-polarizingspirit.ItsnamepayshomagetoSanFrancisco,whichisknowntobeoneofthelargestper-capitaconsumersofFernetBrancaintheworld.

112ouncesFernetBranca

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

34ounceOrgeat

14ounceTaylorsVelvetFalernum6dashesofAngosturaorangebitters

4dashesofAngosturaaromaticbitters

Largefreshmintsprig,forgarnish

Orangeslice,forgarnish

BuildtheliquidingredientsinaCollinsglassfilledwithcrushedice.Usingaswizzlestickorabar

spoon,swizzlethedrinkbyrubbingthestickorspooninthepalmofyourhandbackandforthasthedrinkchillsandtheglassfrosts.Garnishwithagenerousbouquetofmintandtheorangeslice.

LAMARIQUITA

Iamgenerallynotafanoftheflavoredvodkas,preferringinsteadtousefreshingredientstoachievethedesiredresult.Thereareafewexceptionstothisrule.GrahamsTexasTeaismadeinAustinbyTreatyOakDistilling,naturallyflavoredbysteepingNilgiriblackteaandsweetenedwithcanesugar.

2ouncesGrahamsTexasTea

1ounceSt-Germainelderflowerliqueur

34ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

2ouncescarbonatedwater

Lemonwheel,forgarnish

CombinetheGrahamsTexasTea,elderflowerliqueur,andlemonjuiceinamixingglasswithiceandshakevigorouslytochill.StrainintoaCollinsglassfilledwithfreshice.Topwiththecarbonatedwaterandgarnishwiththelemonwheel.

LOVEBITE

TheverythoughtofaValentinesDaycocktailmakesmeshudderinfearofattemptingtore-createtheflavorofachocolate-coveredcherryinliquidformalldoneupinholidaydragwithchocolateshavingsandsprinkles,asthatisthetypicalmoldforsuchdrinks.Itooktheoppositeapproachhere,withacocktailforthosewhoseideaofromanceinvolvesjustalittlenibble.

112ouncesTitosHandmadeVodka12ounceTenneysonAbsintheRoyaleorotherblancheabsinthe12ounceraspberrysyrup,suchasMoninoranothercoffeeshopbrand(ormuddlefreshraspberrieswithatouchofSimpleSyrup)34ouncepineapplejuice12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1raspberry,forgarnish

Combinealltheingredientsexcepttheraspberryinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeraspberry.

MATAGALPA

Essentiallyanaged-rumMargarita,thiscocktailwasoriginallymadewitheighteen-year-oldFlordeCaarum,buttastesgreatwithanynumberofagedrums.

112ouncesFlordeCaaCentenarioGoldeighteen-year-oldrum

34ounceCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange

12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice12ounceSimpleSyrup

Flamedorangepeel,forgarnish

Combinetherum,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinamixingglasswithice;shakevigorouslytochill.Strainintoachilledcocktailglassandgarnishwiththeflamedorangepeel.

HowtoDrinkFluent

MEXICAN

WITHCLAUDIAALARCN

IdecidedtoreachouttomyfriendandcolleagueClaudiaAlarcn,aveteranfigureinAustinsfoodandbeveragejournalismscene,withafewquestionsaboutMexicanandMexican-styledrinks.AlarcnhailsfromMexicoCitybuthascalledAustinherhomesincethe1980s.IhadaburningquestionaboutMargaritaserviceinMexico.InTexas,twostandardquestionsarealmostcertaintofollowwhenyouorderaMargaritainarestaurant,andinmanybars:Wouldyoulikethatontherocksorfrozen?Wouldyoulikesaltornosalt?MostMargaritadrinkersarefamiliarenoughwiththeroutinethattheypreemptthequestion.ButItakeissuewiththequestionitself.Itseemsliketheproperquestionwouldbetoaskifthedrinkerpreferredthedrinkstraightuporontherocks.Wheredidthefrozenversioncomefrom?

InMexico,afrozenMargaritawasunheardofuntilfairlyrecently,Alarcnsaidbywayofconfirmingmysuspicion.ButnowtheyrepopularinplaceslikeMexicoCitybecauseofinternationalchainrestaurantslikeTGIFridayssothefrozenMargaritawasimportedtoMexicofromtheUnitedStates.BecauseitsfromtheStates,itsanovelty.TraditionallyitwouldhavebeenservedshakenandservedupintoaV-shapedstemmedglass,whichbringsmetomynextMargaritaconundrum:theMexicanMartini.

Bytheearly1980s,theMargaritawasubiquitousinTexas,butitwasntnecessarilygoodormadecorrectly,Alarcnexplained.ItturnsoutmostplacesusedaMargaritamix,withvaryingdegreesofartificiality,sothefolksattheCedarDoorstartedservingwhattheycalledaMexicanMargarita:Tequila,

Cointreau,andlimejuice,shakenandstrainedintoastemmedglass.ItwasatraditionalMargarita,servedtraditionally.Unfortunately,therevivalwouldntlastforever.

Overtime,AustinitesstartedcallingtheMexicanMargaritatheMexicanMartini,becauseofthestemmedglass.Eventually,thebartendersstartedservingtheshakerontheside,andnowwereatthecurrentsituationwiththeMexicanMartini,Alarcntoldme.AndthecurrentsituationisafarcryfromthatearlyattemptatbringingbackthetraditionalMargarita.MyresearchintotheMexicanMartiniatseveralprominentbars,twoofwhichclaimtohaveinventedit,revealedwidespreaduseofanumberofingredientsthathavenoplaceinaMargarita,suchasorangejuice,olivejuice,Margaritamix,andSprite.Atitsbest,aMexicanMartiniisreallyjustaclassictop-shelfMargarita,servedinastemmedglass(withanolivegarnishifyoufeelsocompelled).

AllofthistalkofMargaritasobscuresthefactthatthedrinkisfarmorepopularintheUnitedStatesthaninMexico.AccordingtoAlarcn,ifMexicansaregoingtodrinktequila,itismorelikelytobeinaPaloma,orservedneatwithasideofSangrita.NottobeconfusedwithSangria,Sangrita(meaninglittleblood)isamixtureofjuiceandspicethatisservedasanaccompanimenttotequila.Althoughthenumberofrecipesisvirtuallyinfinite,twodifferingschoolsofthoughtprevail:thepomegranateschoolandthetomatoschool.Thepomegranateschoolseemstobethemoretraditional,inwhichSangritaismadefromamixoforangeandlimejuiceswithgrenadineandspices.Thetomatoschoolrecipederivesitsredcolorfromtomatoasopposedtopomegranateandchiles.Eitherway,theSangritaistakeninsmallsipsbetweensipsof100%agavetequilaandactsasalittlepalatecleanserandpalatestimulant.Inreality,tequilaisntthemainthingpeopledrinkinMexico.Scotch,rum,brandy,andCokeareallverycommon,Alarcnsaid,andnoshortageofbeerandMicheladas.

CLAUDIAALARCNSSANGRITA

Thisrecipeiseasytomakeandisnicelybalancedbetweensweetandsavory,spicyandtart.Ofcourse,youcanadjustthespicetoyourliking.Makesabout4cups

14medium-sizewhiteonion

2cupsfreshlysqueezedorangejuice

2cupstomatojuiceorClamatojuice

12cupfreshlysqueezedlimejuice2tablespoonshouse-madeornaturalgrenadine

14cuphotsauce(suchasValentina),ortotaste

1teaspoonsalt

Usingafinegrater,gratetheonionoverabowlfittedwithafine-meshstrainer.Discardthepulpypart.Inapitcher,combinetheonionjuicewiththeremainingingredients.Stirthoroughlyandchill.

PALOMA

ThePalomaisthesecond-most-famoustequilacocktailaftertheMargarita,butitisnumberoneasconsumedinMexico.Youcanmakeitwithgrapefruitjuiceandclubsoda,butitismoretraditionallymadewithagrapefruitsodasuchasSquirt.

2ounces100%agavetequila

12ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuicePinchofkoshersalt

3ouncesgrapefruitsoda

Limewedge,forgarnish

Buildalltheingredients,exceptthelimewedge,overiceinaCollinsglassandstirgentlytocombine.Garnishwiththelimewedge.

MICHELADA

ThethingthatrearsitsheadincontemporarybarsasaMicheladabearslittleresemblancetothedrinkasitisknowninMexicoasimple,perfectlyrefreshingconcoctionofbeerandlimeservedontherocksinasaltedglass.Thisisquitespartanbytodaysstandards,whenaMicheladaislikelytocomewithan

assortmentofaccompanimentsthatlookasiftheyescapedfromtheBloodyMarycart.AsClaudiaAlarcnexplainsit,BloodyMarymixisalatter-daygringoadditive:Somewherealongthewayitgotcorrupted.Ashotofmezcalortequilaontheside,however,isperfectlytraditional.

Salt

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice

1(12-ounce)canorbottleMexicanbeer

First,salttherimofapintglass,ifthatisyourpreference.Filltheglasswithiceandaddthelimejuice.Pourinthebeer.

BARRONEGRO

IftheMargaritaandPalomaaretheofficialdrinksoftequila,whatistheofficialdrinkofmezcal?Thisismynomination,amezcalversionofaCubaLibre.BarroNegroisadistincttypeofblackpotteryuniquetoOaxaca,thehomelandofmezcal.

112ouncesmezcal2dashesofAngosturabitters

2orangewedges

3ouncesMexicanCoca-Cola

Addthemezcalandbitterstoanice-filledOldFashionedglass.Squeezeinthejuiceoftheorangewedgesanddropthewedgesintotheglass.TopwiththeMexicanCoca-Colaandgiveitastir.

MEXICANCOCA-COLA

Coca-Colaismadewithslightvariationswhereverintheworlditismade.InMexico,manyofthebottlingplantsstillusecanesugartosweetenthesoda,asopposedtohigh-fructosecornsyrup(becauseofgovernmentcornsubsidiesintheUnitedStates,itischeaperformanufacturerstousecornsyrupinsteadofcanesugar,andsomostsodasarebottledaccordingly).MuchMexicanCokeisstillbottledinglassbottleswiththepaintedlabel.Whetheritsfornostalgiareasonsorperceivedhealthbenefits,TexanshavelonghadaloveaffairwithMexicanCoke,anditcanbefoundontheethnicspecialtyorspecialtysodashelfofmanygrocerystores.

MARGARITA

Asfarascocktails-ordered-by-namego,theMargaritaisoneofthemostpopulardrinksintheUnitedStates,andithasbeenastapleinTexasandtheSouthwestfordecades.ManycreationmythsobscuretheoriginoftheMargarita,thoughthemostlikelyscenarioisthatitisaTequilavariationontheDaisy.Daisieswereapre-Prohibitioncategoryofcocktailsconsistingofabasespirit,citrus,andaflavored

sweetenersuchascuraao.

Formanyyears,artificiallyenhancedgoldtequilawasthemostcommonvarietyavailable.Recentyearshavechangedthat,andtherearedozensofhigh-qualitytequilasonthemarket.TomakethebestMargarita,useonly100%agavetequilas,freshlysqueezedlimejuice,andagood-qualityorangeliqueur.

2ounces100%agavesilvertequila

34ounceCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange

34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1barspoonSimpleSyrup(optional,forthosewhopreferasweetercocktail)

Koshersalt(optional)

Limewedge,forgarnish

Combinethetequila,orangeliqueur,limejuice,andsimplesyrupwithiceinacocktailshaker.Shakevigorouslywiththeicetoproperlychillandemulsifytheingredients.Strainintoasalt-rimmed,chilledcocktailglassorontofreshiceinarocksglassorfootedgoblet.Garnishwiththelimewedge.

ANoteontheSkinnyMargarita:Theso-calledskinnyMargaritaphenomenonhasgainedtractioninrecentyears,muchtothechagrinoftraditionalistslikemyself.Ifyoulookatitrationally,boozehascalories,andtheresnowayofgettingaroundthosecaloriesifyoureapersonwholikestodrink.Ethylalcoholcontributesmostofthecaloriestothecocktailswedrink,whenwedrinkatraditionalcocktail.Whatisnotskinnyistheadded,andinmyopinionunnecessary,caloriesinmixes.SoifyoudrinkatraditionalMargarita,madeonlywithtequila,lime,andalittlebitoforangeliqueur,thedrinkhasaboutthesamecaloriesasthebottledproductfromtherealityTVstarandtastesawholelotbetter.

PERSIMMONMARGARITA

Persimmonsareoneofthehallmarksoffall.Fromthetimethetemperaturedropsuntiltheholidays,persimmonsstartmakingtheirwaytothelocalfarmersmarket.Thewaitinggamecanbealmostunbearable,butoncetheyarefinallyripe,therewardjustifiesthewait.Myfavoritethingtodowithpersimmonsistopresstheultra-ripefruitthroughafine-meshstrainer,discardtheskinandseeds,andshaketheresultingpulpintomyfallMargaritas.

2ouncesreposadotequila

2ouncesPaulasTexasOrange

2ouncespersimmonpuree

1ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice

Cinnamon-Sugar-Cayennerim(seeAbbevilleDaiquiri)

Combinealltheliquidingredientsinamixingglassandshakevigorouslywithicetochillandemulsify.Strainontofreshiceinapintglassrimmedwithcinnamon-sugar-cayennerim.

PERSIMMONS

ThereisavarietyofpersimmonnativetoTexasthatissmallandturnsblackwhenripe.However,Irecommendusingfuyupersimmons,whicharesweetevenwhenhard,andturntoasweet,supple,mixablepudding.

Gentlywashthesoft,ripepersimmonsandremovethestemsandtheleavesatthetop.Usingarubberspatula,pressthepersimmonsthroughafine-meshstrainersetoveramixingbowl.Scrapetheoutsideofthestrainertomakesureyougetanyclingingpulp,anddiscardtheskinandseeds.Thestrainedpersimmonsyieldapudding-likepureethatcanbeusedforcocktailsandbaking.Itcanbekeptcoveredintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

FROZENMARGARITA

ThisisittheTipsyTastingPanelhasdevotedhoursanddaystorigorousresearchsothatyoucanenjoythebestpossibleMargaritainfrozenform.Gonearethedaysofcanned,bottled,orpowderedmixes.Thiseasy-to-makerecipewillforeverconvertyoutothetimelesscharmofthefreshlimefrozenMargarita.Whilethismayseemlikealotofbooze(anditis),thisrecipeissizedtofitthetypicalblown-glassMargaritastemwarecommontomanyTex-Mexrestaurants.Realistically,itcouldbetworeasonablysizedMargaritas.

2ounces100%agavetequila

2ouncesCointreauorPaulasTexasOrange

212ouncesfreshlysqueezedlimejuice1ounceSimpleSyrup

Coarsesalt(optional)

Limewedge,forgarnish

Combinethetequila,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinablendercupandfillwithiceuntiltheiceisjustcoveredbytheliquid.Blendthoroughly(itmaybenecessarytoaddalittlebitmoreicetoachievethedesiredslushiness).Pourintoagoblet,rimmedwithcoarsesaltifyoulike,andgarnishwiththelimewedge.

Note:ForaFrozenMargaritalaSanAntonio,upendabottleofBigRedintoyourdrink.ThatsrightBigRed.

THEFWORD:ABOUTFROZENDRINKS

Frozendrinksareapolarizingtopicamongthosecommittedtoqualitydrinks.TheDaiquirishacksofAmericasbeachdestinationsandpartytownshavedoneagreatdisservicetothefrozencocktail.Quiteoftendrinksbeingservedfromfrozendrinkmachinesaremadewithcommercialmixesandmade-upflavors.Attheirworst,eventheboozeisntwhatyouthinkitis.Thereareafewnotoriousdrive-throughdrinkstandsthatserveDaiquirismadewithoutrum,andMargaritasmadewithtequila-flavoredwine.Asyoucanimagine,thisisanathematothecraftcocktailbartenderanddiscriminatingconsumeralike.

ButjustbecauseadrinkhastheconsistencyofaSlurpeedoesnotmeanitmustbemadefromartificialingredients.Aproperlymadefrozendrinkcanadheretoallthecommandmentsofcraftmixologyflavor,balance,freshness,andquality.WhenyouconsidertheegregiousheatanddurationofaTexassummer,itbecomesallthemoreimperativetoengineerfrozendrinksthatsatisfyaswellastheycool.

AccordingtoTomasEstes,thelegendaryrestaurateurandtequilaambassador,EventhoughIpersonallyprefermineontherocks,afrozenMargaritaisaquickwaytogetadrinkintosomebodyshands.Soitappealstorestaurantoperators,includingmeinsomeofmyrestaurantsinLondonandParis.Butitslikeanythingelse,ifyouputingarbage,yougetgarbageout.Ifyouputinquality,yougetqualityout.AfrozenMargarita,justlikeitsshakencounterpart,mustbemadewith100%agavetequila,freshlysqueezedlimejuice,andgood-qualityorangeliqueur.

Thebiggestmisstephomebartendersmakewhenpreparingfrozendrinks(besidesusinginferior-qualitymixes)istotakeaperfectlydeliciousdrinkontherocksandthrowitintheblender.Theresultisawaterymess,becauseofalltheaddeddilutionfromtheblendedice.Itisimportanttocompensatewithadditionalsweet,sour,andboozyingredients.Anothercommonprobleminvolvestheiceused.Ifyouareusingatypicalhomeblender,asopposedtoaprofessionalblendersuchasaVita-Mix,chancesareyourblenderdoesnothavethecapacitytocompletelycrushthelargecubesthatcomefromyourfreezersicecubetrays.Itisbesttobuyabagoficefromtheconveniencestoreorslightlycrushicefromyourfreezer,asthiswillgiveyourblenderalegupandresultinasmoothertexture.Thelastthingyouwantinafrozendrinkisgiantchunksthatclogupyoursippystraw.

FUNFORTHEWHOLEFAMILY

Makesabouteight8-ouncecocktails

1cup(8ounces)100%agavetequila

1cup(8ounces)CointreauorPaulasTexasOrange

10ouncesfreshlysqueezedlimejuice

4ouncesSimpleSyrup(recipefollows)

Coarsesalt(optional)

Limewedges,forgarnish

Combinethetequila,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyrupinablendercupandfillwithiceuntiltheiceisjustcoveredbytheliquid.Blendthoroughly(itmaybenecessarytoaddalittlebitmoreicetoachievethedesiredslushiness).Pourintogoblets,rimmedwithcoarsesaltifyoulike,andgarnisheachglasswithalimewedge.

Note:ThisrecipeisscaledforaVitamix-styleblenderwithalargerblenderpitcher.Ifyourblenderhasasmallpitcher,eitherblendthisrecipeinbatchesorcutitinhalf.

SIMPLESYRUP

Makesabout112cups

1cupfilteredwater

1cupsugar

Inasmallsaucepan,bringthewaterandsugartoasimmerandstiruntildissolved.Allowtocool.Bottleandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1month.

TIPSYENTERTAINING:

HAPPYHOUR

OneofmyfavoriteimpromptupartiestothrowisaTex-MexHappyHour.Atriptothegrocerystore,astop-offattheliquorstore,andaboutanhourinthekitchenandyoucanthrowaneasyhappyhourthatwillmakequiteanimpression.

DRINKS:

Margaritas,Frozen,Persimmon,ortraditional

Mexicanbeers

Micheladas

TequilaSlammers

SNACKS:

TostadaswithGuacamole,Salsa,andChileconQueso

TipsysTXTM(TexbyTex-Mex)BrisketNachos

TEQUILASLAMMER

MostTexansarefamiliarwiththeritualofshootingtequilawithsaltandlime,thoughwerejectthistradition.First,itisajarringsensoryexperience.Saltandlimehardlycomplementgoodtequila,andwereprobablyadoptedoriginallyasamethodofmakingbadtequilamorepalatable.Althoughwegenerallybelievethatqualitytequilashouldbesippedandnotshot,thereisacertaincelebratoryfuntotheoccasionaltequilashooter.Wepreferthisalternativetosaltandlime.

Pinchofgroundcinnamon

112ounces100%agavereposadotequila

Orangewedge,forgarnish

Inthetraditionallickit,slamit,suckitmethod,firstlickthecinnamon,thenshootthetequila,andlastly

suckontheorangewedge.

TIPSYSTXTM(TEXBYTEX-MEX)

BRISKETNACHOS

AlthoughthenachomaybeastapleofTex-Mexcuisine,thereisonewaytomakeitevenmoreTexy:Addbrisket.Ifyouwantthefulleffect,itsbesttomaketherefriedblackbeansandthetortillachipsfromscratch.Unlessyouhappentobeapitmaster,Irecommendbuyingthebrisketandbarbecuesaucefromareputablesource.BecausethebrisketisgoingtomostlikelybereheatedforthisdishandbecausefattastessodamngoodIrecommendbuyingmoistbrisketforthispurpose,moistbeingaTexaseuphemismformeatcutfromthefattyendofthebrisket.IpreferthebrisketfrommyfriendsatAustinsFranklinBarbecue,butyouprobablyhaveyourownbarbecuejointinmind.IftheresonethingtoneverpickafightwithaTexanabout,itsbrisket.(Itis,however,completelyacceptableforaTexantopickafightaboutbrisketwithaKansan,Tennessean,orNorthCarolinian,sincetheyseemtohaveitallwrong.)

RefriedBeans

Chips

1poundfattybrisket,sliced

6ouncesbarbecuesauce,ortotaste

4cupsshreddedwhiteCheddarcheese

Sourcream,toserve

Guacamole,toserve

Salsa,toserve

Preheattheovento350F.Usingaspoonorspatula,spreadtherefriedbeansoverthefriedtortillas.Layasmallpieceofbrisketonthechips,alongwithasmallsqueezeofbarbecuesauce.Spreadtheshreddedcheesegenerouslyoverthechipsandbakeuntilthecheeseismelted,8to10minutes.Servewithsourcream,guacamole,andsalsa.Savetheleftoverrefriedblackbeansforadeliciousbeandip,orforbeanandcheesetacosorotheruses.

REFRIEDBEANS

12poundbacon,diced34cupdicedwhiteonion8clovesgarlic,minced

4jalapeopeppers,seedsandribsremoved,diced

2smallor1largetomato,diced

2(15-ounce)cansGoyaFrijolesNegrosorotherblackbeans

Saltandpepper

Freshcilantro,chopped(optional)

Inahotskillet,preferablycastiron,placethedicedbaconandcookuntilitlosestranslucencyandstartstocrisp,10to12minutes.Addtheonion,garlic,andjalapeos.Sautovermediumheatfor3to5minutes,untiltheystarttosoften,stirringoccasionallytoavoidburningthegarlic.Addthetomatoandcookforafewminutes,untilitstartstofallapart.Addthebeansandsautuntilthemixturethickens,7to10minutes.Addthesaltandpepperandcilantrototaste.Usinganimmersionblender,pureethebeansuntilmostlysmoothwithafewidentifiablewholeandpartialbeansremaining.Adjusttheseasoningasneeded.Continuetocookovermediumheatfor5minutes.Allowtocoolslightlybeforeserving.

CHIPS

Vegetableoil

12yellowcorntortillas,cutinhalf

Coarsesalt

Coverthebottomofadeepskilletwithabout12inchofvegetableoilandbringtoabout350F.Testtheoilbydroppingapieceoftortillaintoitifthetortillasizzlesandfloats,theoilisready.Ifitsinks,theoilisnothotenough.Frythetortillasinthehotoiluntilcrispy,about30secondsoneachside.Setonpapertowelstodrainandsprinklewithcoarsesaltwhilestillhot.

MOJITO

Anyonewhohasdinedinpublicinthehalf-decadeorsoimmediatelybeforeandaftertheturnoftherecentmillenniumnodoubthasrunintotheMojito.Thisearly-twentieth-centuryclassicstartedrearingitsheadagaininnightclubsinsuchcoastalcitiesasMiami,andsoonspreadtothelandlockedstates.Before

long,therewereentireCuban-themedbarsdevotedtothedrink,andeventuallyeverychainrestaurantineverysuburbservedsomeversionoftheMojito.Asthebartendersgrumbledatthenewtaskofstockingandmuddlingmint,thephenomenonoftheMojitomixemerged,andinmanyestablishmentsthedrinkwentthewayofsomanyofitscocktailbrethrenbeforeitthatis,downhillandfast.

ThetragedyoftheMojitospopulardemiseisunfortunatebecause,whenproperlymade,thedrinkisdelicious,andyoudbehard-pressedtofindsomethingmoresuitedtoourseeminglyendlesssummer.Freshlime,amplemint,andgoodrumarekey;SourmixandSprite,notsomuch.

3largesprigsfreshmint

34ounceSimpleSyrup

2ounceswhiterum

34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1to112ouncescarbonatedwaterLimewedge,forgarnish

Gentlymuddletwoofthemintsprigsandthesimplesyrupinthebottomofamixingglass.Addtherumandlimejuice.Adjusttheamountofsyruptotaste.Shaketheingredientsvigorouslywithicetochill.Strainintoanice-filledCollinsglasscrushediceisbest.Topwiththecarbonatedwater.Garnishwiththeremainingmintsprigandthelimewedgeandservewithastraw.Somedrinkersprefertoleavethemuddledmintintheglass;Iprefertostrainitout.Utilizingatoothpickafterasteakisaworthyendeavor,notsowithacocktail.

WATERMELONMOJITO

LikemostclassicSour-formulacocktails,theMojitoisaneasytargetformarket-freshimprovisation.Anynumberorcombinationoffreshfruitscanbemuddledwiththemintandotherherbstocreateaneasyseasonaltwist.Myfavoritesuchvariationismadewithwatermelon,whichtomeissynonymouswithsummerandalwaysintherefrigeratorduringitslongseason.

4largesprigsfreshmint

About12cupcubedandseededwatermelon

12to34ounceSimpleSyrup

112ounceswhiterum34ouncefreshlysqueezedlimejuice1to112ouncescarbonatedwaterLimewedge,forgarnish

Gentlymuddlethreeofthemintsprigsandthewatermelonwiththesimplesyrupinthebottomofamixingglass.Addtherumandlimejuiceandshakevigorouslywithicetochill.Youmayneedtoadjusttheamountofsyrupdependingonhowsweetyourwatermelonis.Strainintoanice-filledCollinsglass.Topwiththecarbonatedwater.Garnishwiththeremainingmintsprigandthelimewedgeandservewithastraw.

CARBONATEDWATER

Whileabottleofcarbonatedwaterfromthegrocerystorewillgetthejobdone,Ipreferchargedwaterfromasodasiphon.Bottledbubblewaterespeciallyinplasticbottlestendstogoflatquickly,whereasasiphonofchargedwaterwillstayperkyinthefridgeforalongtime.Moreimportant,thewatercomingoutofasiphondoessowithforceandinvigoratesthedrinkfromthebottomup,asopposedtojustsittingonthetopoftheglass.ThestandardiSisodasiphonisreasonablyinexpensive,andisdefinitelycost-effectiveinthelongrun.Simplyfillthesiphonwithfilteredwater,chargewithaCO2cartridge,andrefrigerate.

PEARNOEL

Mostso-calledholidaycocktailstendtodrawonalimitedselectionofflavorspeppermint,

gingerbread,orcream.AfewyearsagoIwasaskedtocreateaholidaycocktailforTitosHandmadeVodkaanddecidedtodosomethingdifferent.Brightandcrispinsteadofheavyandcreamy,thiscocktailcapturestheflavoroftheseasonwithcrisppearandcitrusandabitofsavoryspice.ThenameisaplayonPreNol,theFrenchnameforSanta.

112ouncesTitosHandmadeVodka112ouncesMathildepearliqueur,orsimilar12ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice1barspoonSt.ElizabethAllspiceDram

Sliceoffreshpearorlemontwist,forga