The BritishWatch &Clock Makers’Guild

TIMEPIECEThe Newsletter of the Guild

N U M B E R 7 4 ● J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 8

Founded 1907

President: The Most Hon. The Marquess of Northampton DL

$17.7m World Record forNewman’s Wristwatch

Supporting the Industry for more than 100 years TIMEPIECE www.bwcmg.org

A Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, Ref 6239,owned by Hollywood actor Paul Newman,has sold for a record breaking $17,752,500at a New York auction, making it the mostexpensive watch to ever go under the hammer.

In sterling this equates to £13,493,675;Swiss Francs CHF 17,709,894; and Euros€15,228,095.

The watch is one of the world’s mostlegendary and sought after of all the mechanical wristwatches and is the only‘exotic’-dialled Daytona that Newmanowned. It inspired the legendary nicknamefor the most prestigious version of Rolex’sDaytona.

Over 700 people packed the saleroomon 26 October for the inaugural auction –Winning Icons – by Phillips in associationwith Bacs & Russo. In total collectors from43 countries competed for the 49 lots.

The auction was led by its star lot andthe Daytona sold to any anonymous phonebidder after just 12 minutes.

Also selling well was a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, ref 1518,in pink gold which sold for $975,000 anda Philippe Dufour’s Duality, crafted in 1996,which exceeded its estimate of $200,000-$400,000, reaching a staggering $915,000.The whole sale realized $28,875,750.

Head of Watches, Paul Boutros, said: ‘Itwas a tremendous honour to have been entrusted with the sale of the watch thatstarted it all – Paul Newman’s very own

Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona. The signif-icance of this watch cannot be overstatedand we are proud of the enthusiastic response we have seen from collectors internationally, as the watch toured acrossthe globe and as it went under the gavel.

‘We were delighted to work so closelywith James Cox and Nell Newman on thismemorable sale from which a portion ofthe proceeds will benefit the Nell NewmanFoundation and Newman’s own Founda-tion, helping to ensure they can both continue working towards their importantmissions.’

The latest clock to come out of theYorkshire-based luxury clock mak-ing company Sinclair Harding wasunveiled to great accolade recently.

The two train Condliff has beena three year partnership project between owner Bob Bray and esteemed Sheffield clockmaker J Malcolm Wild.

The clock’s first outing was atthe AHCI Exhibition, followedclosely by an appearance at SalonQP, at the Saatchi Gallery, in London, in November.

Find out more on Page 5.

Bonhams Head of Clocks James Strattonhas been busy lately preparing for the December sale. His particular favouritefrom an overseas consignment is this fineand rare early 20th century silver hump-back travelling clock with subsidiary seconds, day and date jump which isstamped with the ACJ hallmark, London.Find out more on Page 11.

Images courtesy of Phillips

2

Salon QP – a shining success!

Salon QP is an international event whichshowcases some of the most interestingwatches on the market today. Most arefrom small companies aimed at the collector wishing to invest in high qualitywatches where price has no importance.Many of the exhibitors are producing tenor less watches a year and are only sellingdirectly to the client as they cannot produce, and would not wish to produce,enough watches annually to supply retailoutlets.

As well as wristwatches, one exhibitorwas showing a pocket watch which I wasinformed had taken the watchmaker sixyears to produce and a clock which hehad been working on for 15 years.

The production tools available todayenable a very skilled watchmaker with agood knowledge of modern computersand CNC technology, together with designflair, to produce watches which a few yearsago would have been impossible exceptfor the large traditional watch houses.These small, often one man producers,have an enthusiasm and fire which is infectious, and their drive deserves to berewarded.

Whilst viewing the watches on offer Ihave chosen a personal list of my threefavourites just in case Father Christmas ormy Fairy Godmother reads TimePiece, although I have checked our membershipcarefully and unfortunately neither of themseem to be listed.

My favourite watch and number oneon my wish list is the Nomos Glashutte‘Lambda 39’ – a very simple, classic, elegant gold watch at a mere £12,800. Ofall the exhibitors, Nomos appeared to havethe most interest, with people queuing totalk to the exhibitors. Nomos have a goodreputation with watchmakers for the

quality of their products and, it should benoted, are a manufacturer who is stillhappy to supply materials to independentwatchmakers.

Number two on my wish list would befrom Faberge, and whilst this famous com-pany are better known for other jewelleryitems and offered a fabulous collection ofladies watches which were both stylish andelegant, for me it was the Faberge Visionare D.T.Z. in an 18ct rose gold case.This automatic movement with the rotoruniquely on the front plate with its engraved front showing through the dial,and the date window in the centre of thedial (another feature I have never seen before) was a snip at about £26,000.

Number three on my list is a watch bya new company which only started earlierthis year, Reservoir – with a watch basedon the look of early speedometers and rev-counters featuring a fly-back minute

hand and ‘digital’ hour display, giving atotally unique look which will fascinatemany people. With a price tag of approx-imately £3,500 this was one of the lowestpriced watches I noticed at Salon QP.Speaking to the people on the stand, Reser-voir had that morning had discussionswith Watches of Switzerland to stock theirwatches.

The UK was represented by Bremont,whose stand was constantly busy and featured almost all of their collection, andRobert and Robina Loomes, promoting theon-line charity auction of one of theirwatches on behalf of ‘The Mountain Trust’.Sinclair Harding exhibited several of theirlimited edition clocks, including a repro-duction of Harrison’s Sea Clock, and SalonQP was the first public showing of the de Fossard clock. This company’s SolarTime Clock is the culmination of severalyears work and was featured in the September/October issue of TimePiece.There was a theme throughout Salon QPof astronomical watches which were a feature of several collections.

Another interesting exhibitor wasAlessandro Rigotto from MeccanicheOrologi Milano with three clocks whichwere in effect a modern take on the tradi-tional skeleton clock. Highly polishedmovements mounted in glass plates withroller bearings. Two of the clocks weretable clocks and the third was floor stand-ing – almost the size of a longcase clock.

Hopefully we are not witnessing thelast flowering of horology as fewer andfewer watchmakers are being trained allover the world, as it is from this pool oftrained watchmakers that these highlyskilled and innovative exhibitors spring.

Obviously I am unable to report onevery one of the exhibitors, but Salon QPwas well attended and if you get the op-portunity to go along in the future, I can recommend it. Since my own visit two ofmy clients have come into the shop andreported that they enjoyed their visit, evenif they could not afford the watches onoffer.

3

Step by Step Replacing split second hand tubesChristian Dannemann

Readers are probably quite fed up with mesoldering hands, but there is one last trickthat I want to share and I will then stepaway from watch hands and get on tosomething else. Promise.

We handle quite a lot of vintage Speed-masters in our workshop and a commonoccurrence is a chronograph second handwith a split tube. Sorry that the photo is abit blurred, but you’ve seen one before I’msure.

The effect is that you can put the handon, but once you reset the chronograph, itwill not return to 0, as it slips on the centralchronograph pivot.

Good if you can get a new hand thatfits, but on a lot of vintage watches, wherethe preservation of the original hands isimportant, that’s either impossible or veryexpensive.

The good news is that you can buy micro brass tubes for model makers oneBay and there is one in 0.2mm x 0.4mmavailable that can be used for Speedmasterhands. Just search for ‘micro brass tube’.

As a first step, cut off a bit of brass tubeand put it into a pin vise.

Holding the tube in the vise, you cannow smooth the surface of the cut with afile or a stone.

As the outer diameter of the secondhand pivot is 0.25mm on the Speedmaster,but the inner diameter of our tube is0.2mm, we have to broach the tube a bit.Alternatively you could use the 0.3mm x0.5mm tube and squeeze it with theBergeon 3010 hand tool.

With a small cutting broach, I adjustthe inner diameter to fit my watch.

As you go along, test against the secondpivot.

Once you’re happy with the inner diameter, we move on to the old hand.

In the next step, we have to remove theold tube from the hand. I do this with thehelp of a broach.

Now we solder the new tube onto thehand. Just for easier handling I leave thetube quite a bit longer than it has to be.

Now I shorten the tube to fit.

Now for a final broaching of the tube.

Now the hand gets re-painted, andwe’re back in business.

I’ve also re-applied luminous com-pound to the dial and the hands so that itlooks nice and vintage – but I’ll leave thatfor another article.

www.watchguy.co.uk

The Space Traveller Reflections on a record breakingwatch that has reached the stars!Roger Smith FBHI

4

A few months ago at Sotheby’s in London, we witnessed an unprecedented new trajectory in the journey of Dr George Daniels’masterpiece, the Space Traveller watch.

On 28 September, by reaching £3,196,250, this wonderfulwork, without doubt one of George’s finest and most elaboratecreations, became the highest-selling English timepiece to everchange hands.

George Daniels is considered to be the greatest horologist ofthe last 250 years and so it follows that the Space Traveller istherefore considered, in some circles, to be the greatest watch ofthe modern era.

By doubling in value in just five years (since its last sale in2012), in bidding which lasted just 10 minutes, the Space Travelleris a pocket-watch which is truly living up to its horological imperative and reaching the stars!

One of two examples created by George in the early 1980sthis, the more ambitious of the two, features an independent double-wheel escapement with a chronograph, solar and siderealtime displays and an exhibition case-back that reveals its complexinner workings.

The Space Traveller is quite simply the reason I make watches.It has a very personal meaning to me but George’s work takestime to fully understand; and to understand his work, you needto understand George… and to understand George, you need tounderstand the long and fascinating history of English horology.

There are many celebrated watches in the world, but veryfew of these can boast to have been designed and made by thehand of one man. It is this genius which makes the Space Travellerso uniquely valuable; And this singular purpose is what madethe Space Traveller so inspiring for me as an apprentice watch-maker and which I now perpetuate as ‘The Daniel’s Method’.

By contrast, most celebrated watches have been designed andmade by teams of people, and most of these pieces follow thesame modus, which is to take a simple watch and add a fewcomplications, then add a few more, and a few more… ad nauseam!

Unlike the majority of watchmakers, George didn’t get distracted by the false premise of complicating complications!His whole ethos was to create technical brilliance expressed asaesthetic simplicity and he achieved this by ignoring absolutelyeverything that had gone before him.

This single-minded ethos is exemplified by this watch. It is astaggering, utterly breath-taking horological achievement and soit is no surprise to me that the Space Traveller’s value is ascendingon a vertical trajectory.

While the price achieved by the ‘star’ of the show grabbedheadlines all over the world, there was an equally unprecedentedachievement by one of the ‘support’ acts, namely the sale of aMillennium wristwatch for £200,000.

It has taken a while, but the importance of the Millenniumwristwatches within the field of mechanical timekeeping is nowfinally being appreciated.

Once again, it is a watch which has a deep personal meaningfor me. While the Space Traveller was the inspiration for mycareer, it was the Millennium which was the realisation of it, concluding my seven-year quest to join George Daniels at thewatchmaker’s bench.

Its key feature is its escapement – the co-axial which, in theMillennium’s iteration, represents its most significant step forward,with its industrialisation by Omega.

For an escapement to become industrialised, it must meettwo simple requirements. The first is that it must maintain agood and stable rate of timekeeping and the second is that itmust be practical.

Practicality is the one attribute which George always advocated. Although, in recent years, we have seen a plethora ofnew escapements appearing, these sadly fail this key test. As a result they will never be industrialised which, in turn, meansthat they will only ever be curiosities within horology and notthe game-changer that the co-axial has proven to be.

Even if they are regarded as exercises in horological design Iam reminded of William Morris… “Nothing useless can be trulybeautiful!”

The Millennium watch therefore represents an important moment in mechanical watchmaking and its significance andrarity are combining to encourage its own stratospheric rise invalue in recent years.

For my reflections on the Space Traveller and the Millenniumwatch you can watch the video on my website which I recordedfor Sotheby’s.

www.rogersmith.co.uk

‘The Space Traveller is quite simply the reason I make watches...’

The Space Traveller. Photograph courtesy of Sotheby’s.

5

Two Train Condliff Clock Sinclair Harding’s latest model is unveiled

This two train skeleton clock is based on the design of famousLiverpool clockmaker James Condliff, circa 1860, and is thelatest addition to the range of skeleton clocks made by SinclairHarding.

In the Victorian era fewer than 100 skeleton clocks of variousstyles were made by Condliff and very few of the original clocksever appear at auction.

This latest model, which was created in the Company’s Yorkshire workshops in a unique collaboration with Sheffieldclockmaker J Malcolm Wild, is possibly the most elegant of theCondliff clocks, featuring extremely delicate frames.

Sinclair Harding uses the latest technology with CNC machinesproducing components of great accuracy, however all clocks areindividually polished by hand to a high degree of finish.

A number of Condliff’s clocks had normal wheel trains withpendulums, but this clock has a large balance wheel with helicalbalance spring surmounted at the top of the clock frame. It beatsseconds and this is shown by the centre sweep seconds handagainst the hand silvered chapter ring, all the hands and strikingwork are polished and blued.

Standing 49cm high, 38cm wide and with a depth of 23cm,the clock strikes on the hour. It sits on a French polished woodenbase, which houses the bell, and is encased in an elegant bevelledglass shade, with an opening door, to keep dust away from themechanism.

Established in 1967, Sinclair Harding says it embraces thehorological industry ideals on precision, quality and perfection,

honouring the historical tradition of English clockmaking, withits range of beautiful hand crafted clocks.

The company’s craftsmen work hard to study and preserveoriginal production techniques, making the exquisite detail ofeach clock a testament to their skill and dedication. Clients rangefrom private collectors to high class jewellers worldwide and alsoincludes prestigious, bespoke commissions.

Robert Bray FBHI is a Fellow of the British Horological Instituteand a member of the AHCI, Académie Horlogère des CréateursIndépendants. In 2010. Robert was awarded the BHI Silver Medalfor outstanding development in the field of Horology.

J Malcolm Wild FBHI is a world renowned clock restorer andhorological tool maker. His tools are used by horologists in allfour corners of the globe.

He is also the author of Wheel and Pinion Cutting in Horology,which is one of the most popular specialist books ever written,selling over 6,000 copies.

He said: ‘Bob and I have worked together on the this projectfor the past three years and we are both delighted with the results –it has turned out every bit as good as we had hoped when we firstdiscussed the project back in 2014.’

And it seems that potential customers agree. Bob took hisCondliff to Basel where he had orders for 10 clocks.

Visitors are welcome to the Sinclair Harding workshop to seehow the clocks are produced and meet members of this family-run business.

Sinclair Harding – www.clockmakers.comJ Malcolm Wild – www.j-m-w.co.uk

The completed clock on its base without outer glazed case.

View of the clock showing spring barrels with fusee chains and fancypierced base to allow the sound of the bell to be heard on striking.

6

The Adventures of a Clockmaker

In this new series Michael Guiverdescribes the horological highs and lows...

Well my one-day weekend came and went at an alarming rate. Iwas pleased that I had taken Sunday off, but a look at the week’sschedule left me feeling guilty for doing so – such is the life of aclockmaker!

My day usually starts early, around 6am. First on my agenda isto work on a long term project of mine which is the restoration ofa longcase clock. Of course, this is nothing new for a clockmaker,but this particular timepiece has two unusual features – namelyan inside rack for the striking part and a spherical moon calendarin the arch of the dial; the mechanism for which was missing,Figure 1.

I had been reminded by my customer, more than once, howlong I had been working on this clock and now most of it was finished except for the missing calender .

A trip to visit a friend had been of great help as an old blackand white photograph in a very expensive clock book showed asimilar clock with a similar dial, so now I knew I was on the righttrack Figure 2.The remedy is shown in Figure 3. The month wheel of 48 teethdrives a smaller wheel of 24 teeth. This is attached to a wormdrive formed from a flat disc engaging a horizontal wheel with 59teeth. The lunar globe is now re-attached to the movement insteadof the back of the dial where it ended up after someone removedthe mechanism. The globe is engraved 1-291/2 and rotates left to right.

Figure 1. The Terry of York clock.

Figure 2. The front plate – notice the ‘witness holes’ on the uppersection of the plates revealing the location of the missing lunar work.

Running the clock for a few days proved it to work perfectlyso I arranged to return the clock to the customer, who, after I hadexplained the function of the lunar work and how to set it, saidthat they probably wouldn't bother with it but were nonethelesspleased to see it back!

I must admit that the clock looked rather grand in its mahogany splendour with pagoda top. I partially restored thedial as well as overhauling the movement, Figure 4.

Chiming clocks seem to be a necessary evil and bread andbutter for clockmakers. Right on the dot of 9am, or maybe acouple of seconds past, the phone rings.

‘Ah Mister Gwiver?’ a lady enquired. I replied correcting herpronunciation of my somewhat unusual name. (I have been doingthis all my life.) ‘I am coming in with my chiming clock. You repaired it and it isn’t working! Will you be there?’ After trying tothink of a reason why I might not be, I had to agree that I wouldand she hung up.

What could the matter be with this clock, I wondered. I hadtested it for some time, it had three new mainsprings and hadworked perfectly before it left my workshop.

It was time for a cuppa and while awaiting her arrival, Idecided to continue making a new wheel for a fusee clock. Thisclock had been troublesome with occasional stopping for no apparent reason. I had dismantled it only to find a bent and fractured tooth on the great wheel. It would not stand straighteningso I concluded it was much easier to replace the wheel. Theredidn’t seem any reason to keep the existing one as the clock had

7

Figure 3. The replaced lunar work assembled to the movement utilisingthe witness holes and the lunar globe reattached to the plate.

Figure 4. The partial restoration of the ‘Terry’ dial after re-silvering butleaving the original gilt finish

had a hard life. Quite a few not-too-clever repairs also contributedto my reason for making a new one. I turned the blank and recessed it out to clear the ratchet wheeland set it up in the gear cutting machine. A quarter of the wayround cutting the teeth the door bell went and I had to switch offthe machine, remove my ear muffs (the machine is very loud)and go up the back stairs to the shop reception to a customer.

‘Good morning’ I said to the waiting person who had inter-rupted my gear cutting. They replied: ‘ Do you repair watches?’ Ihastily replied, whilst shaking my head, that we did not but couldrecommend someone in Norwich as there was no one nearer.After giving them a card, they spent some time pointlessly lookingaround my shop full of antique clocks making the odd commentand then stated they had no idea I was here. I wondered whythey had come in the first place and with a watch, but smiled atthem and asked if they lived locally. They said yes, they had livedin Dereham for 30 years, at which point I wondered why I continue to advertise at great cost. I returned to the workshop and my gear cutting and just beforeswitching on the gear cutting machine the phone rang yet againAfter angrily announcing my business title and asking how Icould help, the person asked to speak the BT account holder –no it wasn’t BT but telecoms sales trying to get me to switch toanother provider . After explaining the purpose of the Telephone

Figure 5. Cutting the teeth on a Fusee great wheel.

Preference Service, whose list I am on, the caller just hung up.Now where was I? Oh yes, clockmaking, Figure 5.

I was just about to start drinking another cup of tea, the lastone had gone cold, when the door bell went again. I looked outthe window and saw it was the ‘chiming clock lady’. I waved ather through the window, whilst retreating to the back stairs togreet her from the other direction. Once at the counter I lookedon with despair at the shopping bag that she placed on the chairin front of me. As she opened it I observed with horror the upsidedown clock.

‘I think you had better take it out’ she stated, as I carefully removed the clock hoping the pendulum wasn't still on. Withthe clock safely on the counter I opened the back to find thependulum on top of the movement – well at least she has removedit I thought taking comfort at that

‘What do you think could be the matter with it?’, she asked. Ilooked at the clock. The hands were stuck at twenty past 12,trying to wind the clock I found all three mainsprings were unwound and of course the hands had stuck at this time becausethe clock hadn’t struck 12. I told her it wasn’t working as shehadn’t wound it up. She replied: ‘Well I never used to have thistrouble when my husband was alive!’

I hope you have enjoyed reading my first column. Next timeI will look at some of the machines I use and what I use them for.

www.theclockmakersworkshop.com

8

BWCMG Prize Winner Adam Jackson wins the Guildprize for horology

Adam Jackson was awarded the British Watch and Clock MakersGuild Prize at the Awards Day, held at the British Horological In-stitute, in October. He was presented with his prize by GuildChairman Chris Papworth.

Adam, who was born in 1994, in a small town called Charlbury, just outside Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire, is delightedwith the award but says he literally stumbled into horology threeyears ago when he tripped over his Dad’s music box!

He explained: ‘I went to Chipping Norton Secondary School,where I gained a love of electronics and design technology. AfterA Levels in physics, maths and electronics I went to university tostudy electronic engineering. However, I left before the end ofthe first term due to the absence of practical elements in thecourse.

‘Following this, I worked as a labourer for a small buildingfirm, during which time I undertook work experience in many different trades (including thatching and blacksmithing) whilst Idecided which career I wished to follow.’

‘I first stumbled across horology about three years ago, aftertripping over my Dad’s music box and breaking it. Whilst attempting to fix the music box, I realised that the work neededincorporated the perfect amount of practical work and theory.

‘I decided to begin the BHI's Distance Learning Course independently, though quickly realised that I required guidanceand practical experience.’

In February 2015, Adam asked a local clock repair shop ‘Timein Hand’ in Shipston-on-Stour for work experience. He was subsequently offered full-time training and a job – and he hasbeen training there ever since!

One of the projects that Adam is most proud of is when hewas challenged to design and rebuild the datework for an eightday longcase clock, as it was one of the first, large-scale projectshe had undertaken entirely independently.

He explains: ‘As a past repairer had completely gutted out thedate work, I had to design and build all wheels, studs and arbors. This was particularly difficult as the awkwardly shapeddial plate meant very little room was left for the datework to befitted.’

Last summer, Adam was selected for the George Daniels Educational Trust, and is undertaking his training as an apprentice

with Time In Hand, where he is trained by Francis Bennett, whostarted up the business almost 40 years ago, and Bruce Joneswho worked at Deacon & Sons in Swindon for three decades,before joining Time In Hand ten years ago.

Adam says he has yet to decide which path his career willtake him, although he says he will definitely stay in the professionand focus primarily on clocks!

And finally if money was no object we asked Adam what typeof clock/watch he would choose.

He said: ‘I particularly like English fusee clocks, I have seen aquarter striking drop dial recently that has stuck in my mind.For watches, it would have to be the Vacheron Constantin GrandSonnerie wrist watch, other than the clearly incredible movementinside, I love the outer design of the dial and case – although Iwould never risk wearing it and I dislike the idea of a watch thatdoesn't get used!

BHI President, Viscount Alan Midleton FBHI presented twosilver medals at this year’s Awards Day – one each to StephenForsey and Robert Greubel, founders of the high end watch-making company Greubel Forsey, based in Switzerland.Both awards were collected by Stephen.

A special award of an Hon FBHI was presented to PeterLing for his contribution to horology. Other prizewinnerswere: C Wheeler, A Jackson, T Danusas, A Taskus, R MesaJimenez, R Davies, R Kramer, J Northwood, C Nicholas, OBroos Revitt and J Koullapis.

During the day Alan Burtoft FBHI gave a watch servicingdemonstration on ‘Fine Tuning the Zenith El Primero forthe Best Performance’ and Stephen Forsey FBHI spokeabout the ‘Evolution of the Precision of the Tourbillon.’

Adam receiving his certificate from Guild Chairman Chris Papworth.

9

The abandoned Riefler parts.

Many years ago, John Wilding publisheda multi-part article on making an Englishregulator in Timecraft magazine. The design, simple but elegant, was followedby a further article describing the makingof an equally elegant case for the clock,based on an original by Dent. The serieson the clock is still available in book form1.

With two regulators under my belt,one using a Riefler suspension-spring

impulsed escapement, the other thelesser-known Riefler gravity escapement,I anticipated an easy ride with my newproject. Both Rieflers have been very successful. The suspension-spring versionworked perfectly from first assembly andhas gone trouble-free for nearly 40 years.Forget the stuff you read about the suspension-spring Riefler being difficult –it isn’t. The gravity escapement version,with its quite complex and delicate half-minute remontoire, was only slightly moretroublesome; the first pawl fitted to theremontoire was poorly designed but theclock now has an 11 year clear run to itscredit.

Pride cometh before a fall. Sometimesthe fall is entirely of one's own making...The plan was to use the John Wilding de-sign as the basis for yet another Riefler,this time fully mechanical, that could bewound up in the traditional Sunday ritual.CAD was used to develop a new Rieflersuspension spring escapement, designed

Some Things JustWon’t Go Right

John Warbey on the trials andtribulations of making a regulator

Crossing out the hour wheel.

for easier adjustment. The Wilding move-ment was constructed, right up to the escape arbor, where the specified dead-beat wheel was to be replaced with thedouble escape wheels of the Riefler. TheRiefler suspension-spring escapement wascompleted and though I say it myself,looked splendid.

You know that feeling you get whenyou’re not quite sure that you’ve lockedthe front door, so you turn the car roundand go back home to check? Suddenly Irealised that the combination of Riefler andremontoire-less mechanical movement wasalmost certainly trouble in the making andabandoned the idea.

My new regulator is now nearly fin-ished, complete with its Graham deadbeatescapement. It has a lovely sonorous tick.Winding it is a delight. The Harrison main-taining gear works perfectly. Why didn't Ileave well alone and get it right first timearound?

1 . The Construction of an English Regulator

Completed movement. Checking the Maintaining Gear Spring Tension.

Cutting the escape wheel.

It’s that time of year again – time topay your membership fees to ensureyou continue receiving the Guildbenefits and, of course, a copy ofthe TimePiece.

There is a renewal form on theback of the address label with thisissue, please fill it in and return withyour payment.

If you pay by Standing Order,please check that you are paying theright amount. Alternatively you canpay online – www.bwcmg.org –using PayPal. Bank transfers are alsoaccepted.

If you have any queries relatingto membership please contact ourHonorary Secretary Bob Moir byphone on 07955 192263 or email sec@bwcmg.org

10

The Bremont 1918 Celebrating 100 years of Britishmilitary aviation

An exceptional new watch which features parts made from fouriconic British-built aircraft used by the RAF during two worldwars has been unveiled by Bremont.

The Bremont 1918 uses the original aluminium skins fromthe Supermarine Spitfire MK1A N3200, the Hawker HurricaneMK1 P3717 and the Bristol Blenheim MK IL 6739 to form threeof the watch rotor propeller blades. A veneer of wood from theoriginal rudder bar of the Royal Aircraft Factory S.E.5A F-904has also been carefully machined within the UK and integratedinto the rotor.

A percentage of proceeds from the watch will go to the RoyalAir Forces Association (RAFA), a charity which has been supporting current and former RAF personnel for almost 90years. It now has over 400 branches and 65,000 members worldwide.

Bremont, which was co-founded by brothers Nick and GilesEnglish in 2002, is an award-winning British luxury watch brandwhich produces mechanical watches in Henley-on-Thames, England. In 2014, it launched a new facility in Silverstone tomake case and movement components.

Bremont, which now manufactures watches for some of themost exclusive military squadrons around the world, says it isdelighted to support RAFA with this limited edition timepiece.

Nick English explained: ‘The Bremont 1918 symbolises ourutmost admiration for the RAF, its wider family, and all the RAFhas done and continues to do for our nation.

‘One hundred years of military aviation is a wonderful milestone to hit and to be celebrating this with such a very specialwatch whilst being able to work with the RAFA organisation issomething that means a tremendous amount to Giles and me.’

The Bremont 1918 is a modified calibre 131⁄4 BE-16AE auto-matic chronometer with 26 jewels and an Opalin matt metal dialwith applied indexes, solid gold/blued nickel hands. The case isstainless steel, white gold or rose gold; diameter 43mm, height

17.2mm. It is water resistant to100 metres and has an alligatorstrap. The watch is C.O.S.C.chronometer tested, has an indi-vidual serial number and accom-panying certification.

Bremont carefully selected thefour British-built aircraft to reflectthe RAF’s outstanding achieve-ments.

The Supermarine Spitfire was considered Great Britain’s mosticonic fighter aircraft and helped to turn the tide against the Luft-waffe during World War II. With eight wing-mounted Browningmachine guns, a 1000hp Rolls Royce Merline engine and a beau-tifully curved elliptical wing, the Spitfire was both fast and deadly.

The Hawker Hurricane was considered the workhorse of WorldWar Two and was strong and reliable, bringing down enemy air-craft during the Battle of Britain.

The same day that war was declared on Germany, a recon-naissance Bristol Blenheim became the first RAF aircraft to flyover the enemy homeland. Its adaptable design saw it serve as afighter, bomber and reconnaissance aircraft.

Entering service in 1917 the Royal Aircraft Factory Scout Ex-perimental 5 was a nimble biplane fighter. Pilots considered itwell-built and a good flyer. For more information go to:

www.bremont.com/1918

The Bremont 1918, which features parts made from four inconic British-built aircraft.

RAF pilots.The Hawker Hurricane P3717 is still airborneout of Old Warden

Mechanics servicing the engine of a HawkerHurricane Mark 1.ⓒ IWM (C1731)

F-904. In 1955, the aircraft joined the Shuttleworth Collection.The Bremont 1918

11

NEWSBIG BEN– TURNING ON THE CHIMES

WEST DEAN LECTURE– ART IN HOROLOGY

Malcolm Archer FBHI has been appointedthe new Subject Leader for Clocks at WestDean College.

Malcolm's extensive experience with private clients, as well as working in themuseums and heritage sector, lies behindhis in-depth understanding of horology.

He brings a comprehensive knowledgeof traditional craft skills, theory and con-textual history. He also has an interest innew and innovative ways of applying conservation to mechanical objects.

A former Assistant Curator of Horologyat the British Museum, Malcolm was morerecently lead conservator on a majorproject with Temple Newsam House, LeedsMuseum. He led the work to conserve andrestore an 18th century mechanical organclock made by George Pike.

Originally from an engineering back-ground, Malcolm began his horologicaltraining at Hackney College in the 1990s.He followed this by entering into a business partnership and further devel-oped his knowledge and skills as a studentat West Dean in 2004-2006. He has continued to successfully run his ownprivate practice and has taught at the College in the clock deparatment since2010.

Malcolm is an associate member of theInstitute of Conservation (Icon), is a Fellowof the British Horological Institute, and isthe lead tutor for: FdA Historic Craft Prac-tices; Graduate Diploma, Conservation ofClocks and Postgraduate Diploma Conservation of Clocks, leading to MA Conservation Studies. All are awarded bythe University of Sussex.

SPARE PARTS DATABASE– OVER 7,000 PARTS NOW REGISTERED

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Big Ben will ring out for Christmas andthe New Year after more than four monthsof silence.

The bells will be reconnected on Saturday 23 December at 9am, and adjusted throughout the day to ensure thecorrect time as slight inaccuracies are expected at first. They will then pealthroughout the festive period and also ringin 2018, starting the New Years Eve fireworks display from the London Eye asin previous years. They bells will be disconnected at 1pm, on Monday 1 January 2018, after thy have rung the hour.

Huge renovation work is taking placeon the Elizabeth Tower and the GreatClock itself, which will take up to fouryears to complete.

During this time at least one of theclock faces will continue to show the cor-rect time and the chimes will be turnedon for special occasions such as Remem-brance Sunday and Christmas.

Author Martin Gatto has recently updatedhis popular book ‘The Tavern Clock’adding a significant amount of researchdata which has been acquired since it wasfirst printed in 2010.

The new edition is now available as aprint on demand book from Amazon.

Martin says a few people have alreadypurchased the book and it would makeideal winter reading.

‘The new book greatly extends my coverage of the subject with the additionof a further 200, to the original 300 clocks’,explains Martin, who has also includedrandom jottings of all his other writingsincluding his blog which make the booksomewhat unusual.

The book is a large format soft-backedblack and white tome. Go to Amazon toorder your copy direct. Look out for a review in TimePiece.

The Guild’s Spare Parts Database, whichwas launched in the Autumn, now hasover 7,000 parts advertised, 45 users andan average of 80 unregistered users perday looking at parts.

To find out what it’s all about followthe link at www.bwcmg.org

Bonhams are busy preparing for their FineClock Sale, which takes place in London,on December 13.

Highlights of the sale include the late19th century silver humpback travellingclock (see front page) which has a saleestimate of £80,000-£120,000.

Other notable lots include a late 17thcentury walnut longcase by Joseph Knibb,London, with ten inch dial and is of onemonth duration (estimate £70,000-£100,000), and a mid 19th century English twin train, quarter chiming carriage clock by Dent, London, see above,which is expected to sell for between£50,000 and £80,000.

Horological enthusiasts, students and artlovers enjoyed a multi-century panoramaof timepieces in art in a lively illustratedlecture combining art and horology histo-ries by guest lecturer from the USA, BobFrishman, at West Dean in November.

Bob projected images of more than onehundred artworks, most by well-knownartists, discussing the artist, the context,and the timekeeper. For more than 2,000years, timekeepers have appeared in art.Nothing in paintings, drawings, prints andfine-art photography appears by accident.In most instances where clocks andwatches are present, they have symbolicor metaphorical significance.

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The standard work on engine turning hasalways been regarded as that by MartinMatthews ‘Engine turning 1680-1990, theTools and Technique’. There is a need foran easily available new book on the topic.I anticipated that this new publication bySchiffer Publication Ltd in which the author is very enthusiastic about guillochéand its survival would meet this need.

It is fully illustrated throughout withgood quality colour images, many of finished work which may help to inspirepotential users although none are refer-enced in the text. There are also many annotated line diagrams, often redrawncopies from an 1895 Lienhard trade

manual. Chapters include trade education,manufacturers and machines, machinecomponents and their use, and patternrecipes.

The early education of machine usersin Swiss trade schools is very interestingbut in common with all other topics in thebook any references to the sources provid-ing information are totally absent.

There is a good collection of images ofdifferent models of machine generouslyprovided by users and collectors. The author recognises that Plant in the UK wasa major manufacturer of machines and images of them are used to explain machine components although the Englishtrade is otherwise ignored. Guilloché isseen from a very European viewpoint from

inside the watch industry where today amix of CNC milling and engine turningare interwoven.

There is a long section on tools andsharpening but it fails to explain some underlying principles of the process suchas the hands on cutting process and theuse of the depth stop. Techniques for cutting trim lines and recessing are omit-ted. In my opinion this book is not forbeginners to the topic.

The content will often confuse sincesome diagrams and text will fail to clearlyget their message over. Further, some aspects of the technique are clearly notunderstood by the author such as the specific application of the multi patternbars and the correct application of roseengine features in cutting 3-dimensionalobjects. Nevertheless, there are a few valuable insights even for the experiencedworker. A missed opportunity is to set outfor the first time a commonly approvedname for each of the patterns.

Fortunately, the Matthews book isshortly to be available through the Societyof Ornamental Turners as a reprint andshould be the first source for those seekingthe basics of engine turning.

‘Guilloché’ is well bound and on 144page of quality A4 paper. Expect to payaround $40.

Book Review

Author: C C ChevinPublisher: Schiffer Publishing LtdISBN: 978 0-7643-5017-7Available from: AmazonPrice: £33.50

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MEMBERS

Norman Charles Poole, retired proprietorof Lynley’s Jewellers, Eastbourne, Sussex,passed away peacefully on 4th September.

Norman became a watchmaker apprentice for A J Mays at the age of 15.He did national service in the RAF as amechanic/watchmaker and was part of the

In October, the European General Court ruled in the case thatCEAHR brought against the EU Commission that it could notoverturn the findings of the second Commission investigation,which was closed on the ground of ‘administrative priorities’.

The Commission is under no obligation to investigate everycomplaint if it believes there is insufficient justification for thecosts of an investigation.

The Court confirmed the Commission’s assessment and foundthat it was within its powers to close the investigation withoutmaking a final finding of infringement or non-infringement.

The onus was on CEAHR to demonstrate where the Commis-sion had got its reasoning wrong and they did not produce sufficientevidence to support their arguments, refuting the findings of theEU Commission.

Cousins applied to be an intervener in support of the CEAHRposition and the need for an investigation. The EU Court refusedour application on the basis that CEAHR represent watch repairersand, as Cousins is a parts supplier not a repairer, we were not directly involved in the European proceedings.

This ruling has not changed anything for Cousins in its legaldispute with Swatch. The English courts remain free to decide ifthe conduct of the Swiss watch manufacturers is anti-competitive.

The opportunity for Cousins to present its arguments and evidence proving the anti-competitive nature of Swatch’s conductto the English High Court will come in due course.

Anthony Cousins

Berlin Airlift. During this time he got thebug for cycling and running and thoughtnothing of cycling 150 miles in one day. Inlater years he and his wife Pat did hundredsof miles together on their tandem.

When Norman left the Air Force hewent to work for Louis Newmark as abench watchmaker and through his longhours, hard work and enthusiasm, he soonbecame the highest paid watchmaker earn-ing the grand sum of £20 a week.

In 1951, he went into partnership andpurchased two shops with one of his oldestfriend Ronnie Renel, in Hither Green andWest Wickham. It was also during the1950s that Norman and Pat married andcompleted their family with two girls Lynand Lesley.

In 1961 Norman made a big move tothe south to Polegate in East Sussex, open-ing Lynley’s Jewellers, part of Lyn and Lesley’s names. He had five shops at variouslocations and became well known in thebusiness for having an Alsatian dog sittingby the safe, due to a couple of burglaries.

An active member in the NAG, the National Association of Goldsmiths, whilstat St Dunstan’s and later at St Luke’s Street,

Norman became Chairman of the local Tunbridge Wells branch, where he carriedout a lot of fundraising for the association.He attended the annual conferences eitherarriving in his camper van or Rolls Royce.He was on the Membership Board and Valuation Committee of the NAG for manyyears.

He was also an early member of theBritish Watch and Clock Makers’ Guild.

In all his 50 years in business, he nevermissed the jewellery trade fairs whichstarted in Blackpool, but later moved toBirmingham. At these events, he was a frequent visitor to the NAG stands (nowthe NAJ, National Association of Jewellers),and had many a tale to tell.

Always a fundraiser, he ran many amarathon and cycled hundreds of miles forthe British Heart Association, Cancer Research and the local Hospice. He gaveblood regularly for 50 years, receiving agold badge for his contribution.

Norman leaves his wife Pat, two daugh-ters Lyn and Lesley, four grandchildren andthree great grandchildren. He lived life tothe full and will be sadly missed by family,friends and acquaintances in the trade.

CEAHR LOSE COURT RULING

FOR SALE – Simonet DZ450 Precision Screwcutting Lathe – £5,500

MEMBERS’ SALES

A unique opportunity to purchase a Swiss high precision lathe (3 phase), on its original bench, and with a comprehensive set of accessories. These quality Swiss lathes were widely used in the horological industry.This particular lathe was previously used for research and developmentprojects within the Department of Engineering at Oxford University.It has never been used in a manufacturing capacity/factory environ-ment and is in outstanding condition, having only had light use. I have many other pictures/video available. Please contact me for further information: martin@countyclocks.co.uk or 07876 505019

FOR SALE – A Keininger H11 Clock Kit (Without Case) - £100Kit includes everything youneed to make a longcaseclock: movement, cast ironweights, pendulum with metalrod and bob, 250mm squarebrass dial with silvered chapterring, black metal hands, wind-ing crank, brass column tops,square column bottoms,finials,lock and key.

Price includes post and packing.For more information contact timothy.soar@gmail.com

OBITUARYNORMAN CHARLES POOLE19 August 1929 - 4 September 2017

14

Our work methods are especially designed to assistyou in giving the very best to your customers.

30 Rose Street, Wokingham Berkshire, RG40 1XU Tel: 0118 375 8883 Mob: 07917 406486 Email: info@orawatch.co.uk www.orawatch.co.uk

Shuajb Berisha MBHI Watch and Clock Specialist

For some the future can seem bleak. Financial worries, mixedwith health concerns can bring depression and despair.

need of help. The trustees, all of whom have many years of experience in the trade, meet regularly and personally oversee all applications.

in the trade and you want their future to seem brighter, please contact us, or pass them our details. Help to make a difference in their lives.

The Secretary, 19 Illett Way, Faygate, W Sussex, RH12 0AJ020 8288 9559 sec@nbswcm.org

The National Benevolent SocietyOf Watch And Clock Makers

Your Trade CharityHereTo Help

Helping Those Who Served The Trade

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Adam PhillipsClock/Watch Case Repairs

35 years experience as a Goldsmith

I make and repair all types of watch cases, from antique pocket watches to modern wrist watches.

www.watchcaseworks.co.uk Adam Phillips 07767 678926

Church and Public Clock SpecialistsReports and quotations are undertaken free of charge

and without obligation within the UK

Tel/Fax: 01768 486933Email: info@clockmaker.co.ukWebsite: www.clockmaker.co.uk

CLOCKSPARES.ORG.UK

Browse our catalogue and order online.

A 30 day account facility is available to all Guild membersEmail an order with your account number to

clockspares@yahoo.comPhone: 07761 583543

Come and meet us at Birmingham or Brunel Clock Fairs

PAINTED DIAL RESTORATION

Robert B. Loomes FBHI

Family business since 1966. Prompt turnaround.

4 Saint Mary’s Hill, Stamford, PE9 2DWTel: 01780 481319

Email: robertloomes@gmail.comwww.dialrestorer.co.uk

THE COMPLETE GILDING SERVICE TO THE HOROLOGICAL TRADE

Refinishing & BurnishingSatin & Polished Gilding

Replacement of Missing Pieces(Over 30 years experience)

RAY WALTON (SILVERSMITH)CREEK CREATIVE, 1 ABBEY STREET,

FAVERSHAM, KENT, ME13 7BETEL: 01795 538674

www.raywaltonsilversmith.co.uk

CLOCKWHEELSWheel and Pinion cutting to pattern or drawing using

Swiss CNC machines, longcase ‘scape and date wheels always in stock

30 Years Experience to Trade & Public2 Meadow Close, Beetley, Dereham, Norfolk, NR20 4SRTel: 01362 860545 Email: richard@rfcharman.plus.com

THE LITTLE BUSINESS THAT CAN BE A BIG A HELP!

FOR SALE – WATCH PARTS AND MACHINES● Elma super elite watch cleaning machine with three jar, drying chamber and timing clock, working condition - £199● Elma test watch timing machine complete - £80● Seiko UB glasses boxed, round mineral glasses in ass sizes - £100● Bundle of ladies leather watch straps, sizes 6mm-14mm - £25● Bundle of mens metal watch bracelets - £70● Assorted watch spare parts individually packed in small boxes - £50● Assorted balances in a box calibrated● Assorted complete balances and spares for mechanical and auto watches individually packed in original packing. SPECIAL PRICE● Assorted alarm clocks as new● Hand held lever closing press double side dices also fit UB glasses - £20● Electric running sign. Working order - £50● Ring sizer enlarger stretcher tool complete - £25● Two boxes of assorted stem and balance staffs calibrated● Many more things

Contact: G MistryTel: 0208 902 3342

Wembley, Middlesex, HA9 7EN

1616

Administrator’s Desk

GUILD DIRECTORS: Chairman: Chris Papworth MBHI; Vice Chair-man: Paul Roberson FBHI; Treasurer: Lionel Blowes FBHI; HonorarySecretary: Robert Moir; Vice Presidents: Angus Matheson, LionelBlowes, William Hill, Jean Jones; Directors: Manny Bramsden, RobertBall, Shuajb Berisha; Christian Dannemann; Jayne Hall; Roy Hunt,David Pay, Keith Scobie-Youngs; Howard Vyse; TimePiece and Web Editor Jayne Hall.

Guild Communications to: Robert Moir, 26 Knights Close, Windsor,Berks, SL4 5QR. Tel: 07955 192263. Email: sec@bwcmg.org Website:www.bwcmg.org

The British Watch & Clock Makers’ Guild is a Company Limited byGuarantee. Registered in England & Wales No 4613321. RegisteredOffice: 1 Bedford Row, London, WC1R 4BZ.

Copyright © 2018 The opinions expressed herein are not necessarilythose of the officers and council of the Guild and no responsibility isaccepted for the content of any article or advertisement. No article maybe reproduced without prior permission being obtained.

Printed and distributed by: MYPEC, 10 Festoon Rooms, Sunny BankMill, Farsley, Pudsey, West Yorkshire, LS28 5UJ.

Robert MoirHonorary Secretary

DIARY 2018January15-19 SIHH Geneva Salon.www.sihh.org21 Midland Clock and WatchFair, National MotorcycleMuseum, Solihull, B92.www.clockandwatchfairs.co.uk

February 8 BWCMG Board Meeting,Friends Meeting House, 173,Euston Road, London. NW1 2BJ,2pm.

March18 Midland Clock and WatchFair, National MotorcycleMuseum, Solihull, B92.www.clockandwatchfairs.co.uk22-27 Baselworld, Messe Basel,Switzerland.www.baselworld.com

April8 Brunel Clock and Watch Fair,Sports Hall, Brunel University,

Uxbridge, UB8 3PN.www.clockandwatchfairs.co.uk22 West Country Clock & WatchFairs, Holiday Inn Taunton M5Jct 25, Deane Gate Avenue,Taunton, Somerset, TA1 2UA.www.westcountryclockfairs.co.uk22 Essex Clock and Watch Fair,Marks Tey Parish Hall, OldLondon Road, Marks Tey,Colchester CO6 1EJ.www.ipswichbhi.org.uk

May10 BWCMG Board Meeting,Friends Meeting House, 173,Euston Road, London . NW1 2BJ,2pm.13 Midland Clock and WatchFair, National MotorcycleMuseum, Solihull, B92.www.clockandwatchfairs.co.uk

Diary dates for the whole of 2018are now available on the Guildwebsite - www.bwcmg.org

A Board meeting of the Directors on Thursday 9 November 2017at Friends Meeting House, London, was well attended with onlyfour Directors unable to be present. The minutes of the previousmeeting were accepted and signed by the Chairman. ChristianDannemann (Assistant Treasurer) gave the financial report andconfirmed that the Guild was in a good financial position.

The Secretary reported on the health of some of the Guild’solder members and said he was maintaining contact where possi-ble. Attempts were being made to increase group membership,where the staff of larger companies can become Guild membersat a reduced rate, enabling them to have full membership and seewhat is going on in the horological world.The Board were pleasedto hear that over the past 12 months, membership had steadilyincreased.

Professional CharterA review was made of the few complaints received from membersof the public against Guild members over the past 12 months. Allcomplaints had been resolved, however it was unanimously decided that the Professional Charter (as on the Guild Website),should be revisited and any changes made if necessary. This willbe published in TimePiece when finalised. This Charter is notonly to protect the public, but just as importantly, to protectmembers against malicious and unnecessary complaints.

TimePieceThe Chairman read out the Editor’s report which stated that Time-Piece was going well and Jayne was trying to include more articlesabout members and their businesses. The Green Book had recentlygone out to all members and ways to improve it are being lookedinto. The Guild website is being continually updated as is themember’s web site section. The Editor also reported that theGuild’s Facebook page was proving popular now that it was beingregularly updated. She urged members using social media to ‘like’and ‘share’ the page.

Swatch GroupThe Chairman reported that the case against Swatch Groupbrought by Anthony Cousins is still ongoing despite CEAHRfailing to present an acceptable case. He also reported that theGuild continues to support the BHI at meetings and that he hadpresented the Guild Prize to the top student at the recent AwardsCeremony.

Standing Orders and Membership Fees 2018Standing orders are due to be paid on 5 January. Please checkthat yours is up to date. Last year considerable time and moneywas spent chasing up members to pay the balance owed. As anorganisation, we are committed to keeping our fees to a minimum,and chasing membership fees is an unnecessary expense.

Next MeetingThe next Guild meeting will take place on Thursday 8 Februaryat the Friends Meeting House, 173 Euston Road, London, at2pm. All welcome.

The following members of the trade have applied for member-ship of the Guild and have had their application accepted. RICHARD STUART WILTSHIRE

ANTHONY MILLS WEST YORKSHIRE

GRAHAM FRAMPTON WEST SUSSEX

JON O’HARE ARMAGH

SALVIANA MEDEIROS LONDON