MATEOCARREGNOby

“The colors of the world. Are changing day by day”

I found fashion in a casual way and its fashion what makes me unders-tand the world. I take fashion and clothes not like and object but as a tool for society to evolve, during the evolution of humanity fashion

and clothes have played an impor-tant role since, besides arts, those are

tools for people to express and commu-nicate a message

The use of fashion as an economical good, creates a bigger impact and influence, but there are problems of communication to people understand its value. Fashion is show as and object and item of luxury not as an opportunity. In this moment of change for hu-manity behaviors, fashion can be a way to make of itself a good change if we only start to understand it.

Its time to think on fashion and the new talents are the future of this thinking, Latinamerica has an explo-sion of new talents that can be featured side by side with the mainstream brands, but is a main need to un-derstand what is going on now to understand where should we go, to avoid this way going back, is time to reach the future.

MATEOCARREGNO

To my mother, my family and friends and somehow to all the people around me that have show me in the most strange ways, how fashion needs to evolve and go futher in order to survive.

“The colors of the world are changing day by day”

INDEX

PrefaceDedicationIntroductionMain ObjectiveJustificationMetodologyBrands IndexErikó by David AlfonsoMalafahaInmaculado by Carlos MuneraMarco ManeroJuanJulian RuizCamilo Garcia ManifestoJuan Enrique ManifestoLux Lancheros ManifestoMonica Hernandez ManifestoConceptual Styling

INTRODUCTION

The world is in a change in sense on consumption, where the costumer have the power to change the traditional economical model to create a dynamic global environ-ment for the production and commercialization. But the lack of communication of new proposal in design and new designers, keeps the brands on the traditional fashion sys-tem as the only opportunity to use as fashionable garments.

MAIN OBJECIVE

Present the new talents as designers able to be styled thanks to their pro-posal design and commercial point of production on it.

JUSTIFICATION

Fashion is a global phenomenon that comes from the self-expression of human being and from the need of represents itself and project to the others from the esthetic. As other phenomenon in hu-man evolution the systematization trough produc-tion brings final economic results and this way a need to set parameters for the acceptance and distribution of goods. In fashion and thanks to the globalization and the economy control of some countries, fashion has become a global move-ment but with the use of it only as a product and manipulation trough marketing, the international production has become global an aliened in or-der to be able to compete and play in the econo-mical field going out of the creative area.

The porpoise of this project is to show selected new brands and talents, that being inside coun-tries with a new development of fashion and tex-tile industry, are proposals that can be named as innovative but at the same time commercial and able to go global and compete in an internatio-nal level. They show a high level of understanding of the international market, the trends and the spi-rit of time “Zeitgeist”. At the same time the brands and designers are taking the industry a step fur-ther, a step that will allow the evolution of fashion go faster in Latinamerica and if their direction is the right one, set it as a reference industry for the rest of the world.

Is important to understand the global way how fashion influences people and society, first taking into account how fashion is an universe itself, and even how style i s a huge field to describe and

work on. The first criteria to talk about a piece of clothe is where does it comes from, why is it done and from that point can be defined where is it going, who is going to wear it and the reasons of this interaction between a piece of garment and society represented by the consumer. This is why designers and their brands are the first fount whe-re the information has to be taken, to start descri-bing the styling field and the fashion universe.

Humanity is in the middle of the fight where the globalization after dying is trying to come back and destroy the idea of multiculturalism and the individual trough marketing messages that feed all generations trough the idea of “lack”, someti-mes a lack of style or personality but do not descri-bing the true of what we are missing; knowledge.

The desire of uniqueness from the consumer co-mes from the creation of identity making use of garment as a tool, way of expression and repre-sentation. If we part from a basic concept of what is identity about, the line created by society, fas-hion industry and adoption of cultures can be an starting point for the use of garments, colors, sha-pes and specific cuts for a male or a female, ta-king the sex as first reference and starting point for the identification of the individual. This line in the actual society can be blur easily but no erased, the genital sex has now taken a second place in the development of a person as individual and as a unique being, This way new perspectives are opened for consumers that search founts to ex-press their identity outside the traditional schemas that suggest how and what should wear in

order to show what they are.

The success of a production of fashion with a high level of concept is based on the satisfaction of needs from people, in a global way to be out of the traditional schema. This need could be easy to satisfy in young people, but in reality is a need that belongs to every person, each person no matter the age is in search of it, the pretention of self-de-velopment. This opportunity of self development has been done in Latinamerica trough a constant fight against the organism of control, government and others since it was colonized or even for the intend of survey in problematic countries, the ex-pression trough clothes has been resigned to a se-cond field.

With this situation described we are ale to unders-tand why Europe has become the dominant in the fashion industry when we talk about style and trend production. Years of expertise and time to evolve the industry are the main elements that had gave the possibility to European creators to propose helped now days by the economical power coming from big fashion groups that con-trol and shape in a certain way the fashion univer-se know by outsiders.

“For Pierre Bourdieu, taste does not exist, it is only the consequence of organization made buy the society. The trap of social consist, according to him, in make us believe that our choices in aesthe-tic or cultural subjects are at the same time spon-taneous and selfless” Erner, Sociology of trends 2008

Latinamerica has now reached the same level of Europe following the path created before. New designers are following their creative process going trough a bigger thinking to the satisfaction of Latinamerican consumer and pushing the tradi-tional cultural schema of consuming to go further. The proposals of the presented brands represent where is Latinamerican fashion now and where is it able to go in themes of style, creation and design. There is still too much to do for the consumers in order to let them understand brands and clothes out of marketing and communication strategies.

In order to transmit an idea to consumers of new talents that represents big proposals, the first step is to give information about the selected brands and their universe only by clothes and productions. Images to communicate the ability of the creators and the life of the brand.

Six brands are presented, all of them selected regarding the evolution in design during the last years and the evolution on commercial strate-gies. I started following them identifying a signal of potential change in fashion proposal for Latinamerica, based not only on the style but also on the way of conceiving the brand management. The situation they are now is an important representation of how competitive the brands have became and how the style developed by the designers is going forward, becoming a representation of the evolution on fashion that Latinamerica is having, being able to influence the latinamerican con-sumer and compete in international markets.

The proposal is an understanding of Latinamerican fashion universe and the way of producing of designers and their thoughts. To resume the style presentation of the brands an artistic digital style proposal to understand in a visual but still conceptual way how the garments made contribute to fashion evolution.

METODOLOGY

Walls are a representation of how the time goes by; they show us epochs and they change. Fashion is changing and new ta-lents represent the new paint covers for the old walls.

“The colors of the world are changing day by day”

Innmaculado by Carlos Munera

Juan

Erikó by David Alfonso

Malafacha

Marco Antonio Manero

Julian Ruiz

ERIKÓ

“Is one of the first t-shirts of the brand, when I look at the picture being a simple creative process I realize that there was something, and start following he brand”

Mateo Carregno

Before being a designer, I am a client, and I consider that the industry is totally feminist. The new typologies, the use of new materials and the risk for color are concepts that sadly are considered for girls.*Interview at www.vistelacalle.com

The last campaign included Ricardo Dominguez the Latinamerican top androgen model - a special pro-duction to show the innovation of the brand and even with the existence of traditional cuts for men, traditio-nal style is far from what the brand shows to the world.

Mateo Carregno

The designer Tom Ford inspires me for his sophisticated style, elegant and precise as for his identity, bold and modern. *Interview at www.vistelacalle.com

I am inspired in an actual man, one that is not afraid to be seen in the street and that likes to experiment, one that mix stiles without caring the sexuality of the garments and that desires to be part of fashion without looking at it like something alien. *Interview at www.vistelacalle.com

Man in Latinamerica lacks apparel brands; the offer is based on con-sumerism and empty temporal repetitive patterns without aesthetic concept. Here is where Eriko born as a creative process with personality, risky and excessive.

Eriko definitely is aimed to a modern man, cosmopo-litan and globalized. The new communication me-chanisms have allowed life referent no to be only local and the actual fashion market to be rein-vented constantly according to universal items.

The brand uses, more than European trends, the desire of modern man to look avant gar-de, developing unique pieces that hold con-cepts of globalized design in an affordable and real way. Dress with design is not a sub-ject of runway show or money.

Erikó does not have an only brand as a refe-rence, the diversity is the main brand charac-teristic, therefore there are several fashion hou-ses observed. What we always search on those references are design concepts where the color and texture stand out, we can see from Jil Sander silhouette to the spirit of Commes des Garçons, going trough Gucci, Versace and tom Ford.

For Erikó, fashion future is unclear, it is important to keep in constant development, taking into account the consumer and trends. Where

will we go or what will we see later, are questions that in fas-hion are difficult to answer. We just have to aim for fashion

in Latinamerica to keep in constant creation, searching strengths as the raw materials and manufacturing, in

which we could be leaders comparing with other markets.

Erikó is directed to a modern man, artist, from the nightlife, traveler, aesthetic and very risky. Bored about the everyday and tired about everything he likes will never get it because the cost or access. We search the man to feel harmonious, vain, edgy and observed by others, avant-garde. Feelings currently di-rected only for women. Erikó without leaving the male silhouette diversifies its intend under the color and textures, creating particular

garments, specific and with a lot of personality.

Eriko is clear that reinvention is the basis for eter-nal success; we do not seek to have a single ima-

ge or identity. The mixture of styles, aesthetics and clients will make eternal the brand.

David Alfonso - Creative director

Photography & Styling Andres Ricaurte.Modelo Sebastian Malagon VillafraClo-thes ERIKO.by David Alfonso.Asistent Christian Fon-secaSpecial thanks to: Pame Bourke-White

The slogan of fashion is to stay young, challenge the pas-sage of time to endure and trace. That spirit of freshness and novelty defines Malafacha, fashion brand with just five years, but with an entire creativity flow and enrgy. Francisco Saldaña, fashion designer, and Victor Hernal, graphic designer, are the talents that give life to this pro-ject.

...en el sauce, la mariposa... Spring Sumer 2014 Collection inspired in Danza Butoh

The duo has taken advantage of its five years of life. Proof of this are its three Lycra Fashion Awards, they won first by presenting the best menswear collection, later, the best female collection and fi-nally the best concept of accessories, the last one in collaboration with Gustavo Helguera. Another of his major awards is the prize of the page Fashion Radicals News from Colombia for its collection Exodus (spring / summer 2010) as one of the top five in Latin Ame-rica.

“Buenas noches Sr. Monstruo” Spring Summer 2010 2011

”I met Malafacha brand during my visit to Mexico in 2011 for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico. The energy between the designers made me think about how the future of fashion for Lati-namerica was being shaped du-ring those days on those runways. Malafacha took my breath and since then every time I see one of their productions, for me is the perfect sample of design for runway that success in a contrast where the commercial product is the one that cares”

Mateo Carregno

MALAFACHA is a mexican brand and the meaning of the name is “bad dressed” and reflects the essence of the brand’s concept, to go be-yond the preconceptions of beauty, taste, clothes, glamour, and all this cliches that are inherit without thinking about it. We want to search new creative paths, the creativity is the reason to exist for us, we think that fashion have to bring sense, we are interested in show the other face of beauty. That’s the way we understand the world and all that surround us.

In our brand we take inspiration form everywhere unconsciously living in a big city will guide some of the aesthetics of our work, we are mexicans , but we didn’t grow in the beach or in the jungle or between cactus and donkeys with mexican textiles…we live in one of the biggest cities in the world, and that is what we reflect in your world, and we are a brand that exist in a global reality so the inspi-ration can come from Beirut, or Japan or from y neighbor…. As creatives we can’t limit the sources of creativity, that’s a mistake.

About the target consumer. Creative people, that are pleased to look different from the rest ,that want to tell a story in every clothe, that are interested in the form, the process, the meaning of a blouse or a skirt, that see the fashion as something else tan fabrics and seams, People that work in artistic fields, design, architecture, cultural areas.

About the future for Latinamerican brands. I don’t know…. we have to do our part of the

work as individual, no seeking some specific goal, we only need to concentrate on doing things the best we can. I think is a prominent future to fashion in some countries of LA, we can generalize, every country in LA have different cultures, different approaches to consumers, markets, etc. but We see a lot of opportunities.

About the strategy to make the brand eter-nal. Being honest in every step, in every pie-

ce we design. Communicating an connec-ting with people using our clothes but bringing

significance .

[...] we don’t use trends, we are not a mass market brand so it will be a mistake to use trends, we generate designs that have to be inno-

vative, and we never see other designers work and we never inspire from them, that will be a scam. We are designers,

our brand has an own voice, we don’t make clothes we make fashion.

One of the first collections of innmaculado called Mea Culpa. Ins-pired on temptations and the guilty of the being taken by the sin.

Good days orange, Spring/Summer collection 2012, takes the orange color as the main protagonist inspired for the sensation of the fruit and its relation with the morning and the first sunlight during the morning.

MARCO MANERO

“The designs of Marco Manero where seen first on televi-sion the first place I met fashion and the last place I tough was going to be able to find something that allows Lati-namerican fashion to evolve. At the contest “Elle Mexico” Diseña”.

Mateo Carregno

“A young and new designer that was opening his place in Mexican fashion industry thanks to the use of unexpected fa-brics for men”

Mateo Carregno

“Was the desire of propose the aspect that took me to be after his brand”

Mateo Carregno

It is a brand that was born in the research of new silhouettes for Mexi-can men, where there was the lack of proposals in commercial clo-thes. Born in the north of Mexico and reaching all the country with our sales. All ideas born of personal issues that seek to create this mix between risky and classic silhouette that creates the identity we want to share worldwide.

The inspiration for the collections comes from global trends around me, this allows to come out the main subject, for example music, mo-vies, news that are in around during research time and inspiration, that normally are Ta-boo themes, this creates and essence of the brand. Maybe an item that brings a lot of inspiration for the brand is the street style, is something basic to develop our silhouet-te.

The future for Latinamerican fashion is good, every time we hear more about fashion week in Buenos Aires, Colombia, Brazil and Mexico, we can notice that they are not behind in the evolution, there is more support for it everyday. I think the brands must be vey active on internet and with sale points to create buying conscience in the consumer for the Latinamerican product, besides proposing and evolve every season to not be left behind.

Our costumers are young men with taste for dressing according to the trends and with an own style, can be guys from office or from the ar-

tistic field. We reach them trough social networks, giving a lot of attention to each publication, listening what they like

about the collections to reach them again season af-ter season, evolving with subjects that we know they

are going to enjoy. Our costumers are young men with taste for dressing according to the trends

and with an own style, can be guys from office or from the artistic field. We reach them trou-gh social networks, giving a lot of attention to each publication, listening what they like about the collections to reach them again season after season, evolving with subjects that we know they are going to enjoy.

The strategy to make our brand eternal is with our own proposal, we have already created an own style in Mexico going fur-

ther with a global vision, we want it to be a referent brand in fashion, creating a good

strategy of sale that make the business last wi-thout loosing the evolution and creative part.

JUAN

Mateo Carregno

“Juan is a brand that started with a high street style for modern young men, the collections where a mix between innovative materials and smart silhoue-ttes, easy to consume for the fashionable public but not for the general men from Colombia. Even so the campaign for Spring Summer 2014 shows a brand more conceptual and worried a bout the message that wants to transmit to the public, going further and exposing its constant evolution.”

A clever Man - Spring Summer 2014

The emptiness and a dark futuristic turn man into a new rea-lity, where objects are broken creating structured and asym-metric forms.

We believe that men wear is a challenge because there are fewer options, unlike the fe-male market. We played with small details, with materials, silhouettes and the ego of the boys. It’s fun to design for them, because it implies re-compose the image in every collection from details, which are in fact very important to men, for example, many of them prefer to have a single garment very good, and not many with which they not very convinced and this ulti-mately is the goal

*Interview for Cromos Magazine

JULIAN RUIZ

Techno - Autumn Winter 2013 2014

An exploration towards ourselves the be-ginning of a new technological cycle. A pulsating inner progress in order to find answers that lead to the desired happiness become the core of the collection is a contemporary and modern man receiving future subversion tempered elegance and character.

Silhouettes, cuts, combination of simple textures and clever details, called my at-tention and drive me to be after the design of Julian Ruiz. The brand propose is such a simple way for Latinamerican consumers than one day suddenly men can find them-selves in a new universe.

My work is an exercise of emotional introspection, is a visceral interpre-tation of our relationship with the modern world from the cos-tumes, responds to a need for differentiation. The idea of departing from the group can be seen as a subversion of the tradition, is like a contemporary way of be for men. This is the core of the brand.

I am currently working with forecasts of trends and pantone color planner with 12 months in advance, but always carry that this in-formation make a mix with my own feeling for each collection. About inspiration from any mainstream brand I always review the Junya Watanabe spring summer 2006 wo-menswear collection, i thinks this is a great inspirational work because is very strong and very subversive fashion.

About comparing the design and the brand style with another one. Maybe Galliano wor-ks, beacuse he brakes the tradition with his own irreverence.

I personally believe the creative differentiation is the way, imagine how the fashion will be in 2020 - 2050. Speculation about how fashion could be in the future is a great tool for progress, we ask that we are including and excluding? Now in 2013-14 we are see-ing a mix between womenswear and menswear codes, so in the future perhaps we can see some new combinations that before were impossible.

About the targt consumer. Is a contemporary and modern man recei-ving future with elegance dotted with subversion. In our brand

we make a long work before each campaing because we know our consumer is very clever and we need commu-

nicate the idea of the collection. We try to offer them a emancipation of the tradition,is what we really

sell. Also we working with special and high quality fabrics.

About the strategy to make the brand eter-nal. I would say that the freedom idea is within each of us. We try to materialize this idea on clothes.

Fashion, to be understood as a socio- cultural expression of the immediate world, let us unders-tand and even get to predict the effects that will produce in geo-graphical areas that are not de-fined are main trend creators. In some regions, there is an aware-ness in relation to fashion as a pu-rely expressive action, a growing demand from consumers who want and lead naturally to de-

signers and / or brands to transmit certain

cultural, folkloric, and traditio-nal event, and there is where Latin Ameri-ca thanks to its variety in

resources, can start producing

trends and not fall into the easy path of

‘Copy & Paste’ to mains-tream brands, taking advantage of the technique in the design same garment in relation other countries.

Of course this would result in not only a new player in the creation of trends in the world, but also uni-que trends after merging our uni-que culture, folklore and tradition ... Without loosing from the situa-tion of the moment.

Camilo GarciaEditor & Photographer

Bogota, Colombia

At his point it is difficult not to be imprinted by what is going on glo-bally, media everytime take us clo-ser to what is going in the fashion world and for me is complicated to say not to it, I like a lot to check what is happening even if it is no the main goal is always clear that i am going to find some kind of re-ference in my production of what I have seen. This does not inspire me in a direct way but it is clear that I use it to leave some kind of reference, to show what I do is closer to what is being done in a global level.

I think in the clo-se future we are going to stop loo-king at fashion from a local perspective to look at it as a global all. I think “Fashion Democratiza-tion” makes me think, as designer, that the best is to bring closer to the consumer what is produced and stop looking designers clothes as something reserved for a few.

Photography by Ace AmirModel Felipe GallegoJuan Enriquez Atemporal Collection

Juan EnriquezFashion DesignerCali, Colombia

Lux LancherosFashion Writer

Bogota, Colombia

We oscillate between “ethnicity” and the global. Ethnicity, has sel-dom been a fixed topic to trans-late Latinamerican fashion into a global product, and overall con-sumable.

Ethnicity is not a new phenome-non, ethnicity is a topic that has been treated since the cultural relativity and pluralism was recog-nized, in the same way, was given

visibility in the mass cul-ture. After colonia-

lism, came the inspiration of

globality to fill imaginar ies. It was how from Carmen

Miranda, in the early 40’s,

the situation went to the love for India

thanks to the Beatles, and after to love for Bossa nova en the late 70’s.

While it is commendable to re-cover ancestral knowledge, and to be preserved, it is inconceiva-ble that it can not be adapted o everyday uses.

We have potential, but we know our own ability to potentiate crea-tion and set a position.

Initially it seems important to belie-ve in local talent, there is a lot to be done, we also can be a refe-rent leader, the people must lose the fear to innovation and it goes by the hand with the situation of keeping and support new propo-sals between designers. Is important no to follow fashion but generate trends, it is a longer and slower way but at the end, is a conscious pro-cess, that will produce results and will be welcome by people, people will embrace a different brand.

Is sad to see how brands go big-ger and start producing in china with the end of profit, the quality reached with our craftsmanship must no be sacrificed not even the support that might be given to our country when employment is generated.

Mónica Hernández Fashion Designer

Feroz y sin miedo (Brand)Bogota, Colombia

“The colors of the world are changing day by day”

Designers as the new paint covers for the old walls, This is an artistic representation of the con-cepts hold on the selected brands stylized in a collage work, where the reader is able to create an own image of the brands as a hole comple-te universe for the evolution of fashion. They are show not as an object of desire, they are show as an object of introspection for the readers.

Malfacha face paintJulian Ruiz TopInmaculado coatMalafacha Pants

Malfacha Hat and shirtErikó t-shirt

Inmaculado PantsMarco Manero Pants

Malfacha Shirt and JacktInmaculado short pants and shoes

Julian Ruiz JacketErikó Shirt

Juan Pants

Juan ShirtMalafacha CoatErikó PantsJulian Ruiz Jacket

Inmaculado blazer and Cardigan

Erikó Short pants

Marco Manero ShirtMalafacha CoatErikó PantsInmaculado Shoes

Marco Manero ShirtErikó Hat

Innmaculado BlazerMalafacha Pants

Inmaculado BlazerMarco Manero Long Slee-ves T shirtInmaculado Short pants

Juan JacketErikó Shirt and skinny pants

Erikó shirtJuan JacketMalafacha Pants

Malafacha Tank topJulian Ruiz blazer

Juan Enriquez top shirtErikó short pants

Julian Ruiz TopErikó VestMalafacha Pants

Juan RaincoatJulian Ruiz Top

Malafacha Pants

Malfacha collarJulian Ruiz shirtInmaculado pantsJuan Enriquez Blazer

Erikó ShirtMalafacha Coat

Julian Ruiz Pants and shoes

Marco Manero BlazerJuan shirtMalafacha Skirt

Erikó BlazerJuan Enriquez T-Shirt

Julian Ruiz Waist Accesory and pants

Copyright disclaimer

Pictures and interviews are provided by the brands and designers as legal representative. Tho-se are who hold the copyright of the content featured in his book. For reproduction and use they must authorize. The conceptual collages as styling proposals are a graphic and artistic design of Mateo Carregno.

Milan, Italy 2013