thepaddler ezine issue 11 august 2013

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The Paddler ezine . com International digital magazine for recreational paddlers Issue 11 - August 2013 Madawaska Kanu Centre WOMEN’S Canada RETREAT Norway coast TRONDHEIM to NORTH CAPE Interviews with DAVE CHUN & KRISTI PAGE Kayak Paddler Regular Paddler Salty Paddler SUP Paddler OC Paddler

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Canoe, kayak, SUP, sea kayaking magazine. The International digital magazine for recreational paddlers, canoeists, kayakers, stand up paddlers, rafting, paddling. See features on white water, sea kayaking, expedition kayaking, open canoeing, SUP, canoeing magazine, kayaking magazine, SUP magazine, kayak, canoe, watersports, paddles and paddling.

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  • ThePaddlerezine.comInternational digital magazine for recreational paddlersIssue 11 - August 2

    013

    Madawaska Kanu CentreWOMENSCanadaRETREAT

    Norway coastTRONDHEIMtoNORTH CAPE

    Interviews with DAVE CHUN& KRISTI PAGE

    KayakPaddlerRegularPaddler SaltyPaddler SUPPaddler OCPaddler

  • Contents August13

    Not all contributors are professional writers and photographers, so dont be put off writing because you have no experience! ThePaddler.co.uk ezine is all about paddler to paddler dialogue: a paddlers magazine written bypaddlers. Next issue is September 2013 with a deadline of submissions on August 20th.Technical Information: Contributions preferably as a Microsoft Word le with 1200-2000 words, emailed [email protected]. Images should be hi-resolution and emailed with the Word le or if preferred, a Dropbox folder will be created for you. ThePaddler ezine encourages contributions of any nature but reservesthe right to edit to the space available. Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publishing parent company, 2b Graphic Design. The publishing of an advertisement in ThePaddler ezine does notnecessarily mean that the parent company, 2b Graphic Design, endorse the company, item or service advertised. All material in ThePaddler ezine is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without priorpermission from the editor is forbidden.

    EditorPeter [email protected]: (01480) 465081Mob: 07411 005824www.thepaddler.co.uk

    Advertising salesAnne EganTel: (01480) [email protected]

    Cover: Kristi PageVictoria, Australia. Photo: Sea Me Surf Photography

  • ThePaddler 3

    Issue 11

    Canada20

    Norway44

    Awareness66

    Photo of the month for August 2013Bergsfjorden, Senja, North of NorwayBy Frode Wiggen

    Kristi Page116

    England140

    Hawaii154

    Where weve beenOCPaddler

    20 Barren Lands, CanadaCanoeing above the treeline.By Alex Hall

    32 Northern Forest Canoe Trail 2New Hampshire and Maine.By Katina Daanen

    KayakPaddler44 Norway

    WW waterfall paradise.By Flo Fischer

    52 Ontario, CanadaThe Womens Retreat Week at MKC.By Shelagh MacDonald

    60 Jackson Zen reviewBy Phil Carr

    66 AwarenessBeing aware of how to avoid the dangers ofthe ocean in fishing/sea kayak.By Mark Crame

    75 SeaBird Scott reviewBy Scott Edwards

    82 Yak Gear profileThe past, present and future of Yak Gear,By Bill Bragman

    SaltyPaddler90 Norway

    Sea kayaking the rugged Norwegiancoastline to the North Cape.By Alice Courvoisier

    106 Plymouth Sound, EnglandOpen cockpit sea kayaking.By Simon Everett

    SUPPaddler114 ThePaddlers Planet

    By Leslie Kolovich

    116 Kristi Page InterviewThe rising star of the SUP scene,By Peter Tranter

    126 Dave Chun InterviewThe owner of Kialoa Paddles,By Peter Tranter

    136 Joe Thwaites InterviewThe owner of Loco SUP,By Tez Plavenieks

    140 Yorkshire, EnglandSUPing Yorkshire by ocean, river and canal. By Dave White

    154 M2O, Hawaii, United States SUP Radio interview with Jeremy Riggs. By Leslie Kolovich

    158 Cuba to the United States Ben Fribergs record breaking SUP crossing. By Leslie Kolovich

    RegularPaddler4 Eight of the very best

    Eight must see paddling videos.

    6 CoachingPrevention is better than cure.By Dave Rossetter

    12 Testing, testing The TevaSphere shoe, VE Split Paddlesand K3 Paddles.

    16 Paddle Expo 2013 What the exhibitors have to say forEuropes largest paddle sports show.

  • ThePaddler 4

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  • OUTFITTINGTime spent outfitting your boat beforehand can help you out in whateverenvironment you are paddling in. For example if your legs go to sleep due to a tightfootrest or over padded seat then are you still goingto have good control over the boat? Lack of airbagscan lead to loss of boat altogether not to mentionhow difficult it is to move the white water kayak tothe side of the river. Spending time ensuring that yourboat is well outfitted will aid you in the control of theboat as well as making any rescue potentially easier.

    The following is not an exhaustive listbut certainly starts you thinking:Take time to sit in your boat in yournormal paddling clothes and adjust allaspects of the boat as required.Footrests: Fullplate/foam/footbag. Make sure theseare fixed in and allow you to stretch your legs so asto keep blood moving. Being over tight in a kayakcan lead to loss of circulation and ultimately poorpower transfer through the feet. Whatever the kayakensure that you can push through the footrest butalso extend the leg that will help when edging.

    Seat: Adjust the seat as to have an even balancepoint of the boat and so you have the ability toreach the water effectively. Many of the kayaks aregetting deeper due to having more volume but thiscan mean paddlers loosing contact with the waterand lack of control over their strokes.

    To get the seat right for you sit in the boat on flatwater. Ensure that there is an equal distance betweenthe water and the bow as there is on the stern. Oncethis has been achieved then look at the height of theseat so that your elbows are above the boat and thatyou can reach the water effectively. Be careful ofpadding the seat to much as a ridge on the undersideof the thighs can cause numbness in the legs. Howeverhaving some form of pad there prevents slipping onthe seat and adds to the overall comfort.

    Hip pads: Make sure that your hip pads dont impedeon a wet exit and are firmly fixed in place. Hip pads area great way to help transmit energy into the boat thataids greater control of your boat. Having even a thinpiece of foam is better than nothing at all.

    Backrest: A poorly fitting backrest is one of thebiggest problems people have with their boat sotime spent on this saves loads of time on the river.Your backrest also aids keeping your posturecorrect which in turn helps keep greater control.The backrest should be resting and not holding youin position.

    Thigh or knee grips: Make sure that when you aresitting in your boat the knee or thigh grip is givingyou grip so as when you lift the leg you are using thegrip to maximum effect. Having a thin piece of foamon the point where you are applying the pressurehelps with the comfort and the control. Again makesure that it doesnt impede you on wet exiting.

    Make sure you have padded conservatively to allowsome movement inside and also so you are nothindered in wet exiting the boat.

    The use of airbags in the back of the boatis very important in helping the rescue ifyou do have to swim. This speeds up the rescue as well as keeping asmuch water out of the boat to keep it floatinghigher when full of water. Dont forget about thebow. With the big creeker kayaks available the bowcan get damaged easily if the kayak swamps. So theaddition of foam or an airbag up front is very useful.

    Take time to kit the boat out for you soyou know where you will pack your kit. Can you locate your throwbag in a hurry? A lot ofboats now have a drinks bottle holder in betweenyour legs that can make excellent holders for yourthrowbag and allows you always to get it in a hurry.Make sure your throwbag has a good closure on it,as 15-25 metres of rope floating about inside yourboat will not make an easy wet exit.

    The article focuses onwhite water kayaks,however, the areas

    could translate acrossother disciplines.

    ThePaddler 6

    Safety starts before we even go paddling

    Prevention is b By Dave Rossetterpaddlesport in

    Front airbag

    Hip pads

    Stern airbags

    Throwline

  • ThePaddler 7

    C.L.A.PCommunication / Line of sight /Avoidance is better than cure / Position of maximum usefulnessCommunication: The important factors with thisare that everyone within the group is aware of howthe group are going to keep in touch and if signalsare being used that they are kept simple. Often it iseasy just to chat to each other. However, there aretimes when this is not possible so having somesignals agreed can help. Any more than five signalsand things are going to get complicated.

    Suggested signals: Stop / Go / Left / Right / Eddy.Safe river running seems to break down most due tolack of signals or poor signals. As a group get toknow each other, other signals may get added butkeeping it simple is the key. Signals are a two processand work best when they are acknowledged.

    Line of sight:Keeping line of sight of where you aregoing as well as your paddling companions is thegolden rule. By ensuring you know where your nexteddy is on the river means you have a stopping option.Keeping your paddlers in line of sight makes signalsmuch easier and helps them see the paddling line.

    Outfitting your boat is not enough by itself. Youshould also look at your other equipment:

    Buoyancy aid enough buoyancy / space forequipment / harness.

    Throwline and rescue equipment suitable length /tape and krab / knife / whistle.

    Spare paddles where to carry.

    By taking the time to prepare properly can help youhave a much more successful time on the river. Toomany paddlers get themselves into difficulty by nottaking the time to outfit themselves or the groupthey are leading and end up struggling to paddle andrescue successfully.

    SAFE RIVER RUNNINGThe art of staying out of troubleWhen paddling any river there must be some clearand flexible ideas on how a group of paddlers is goingto get down safely and in control. This is clearly goingto depend on; the size of the group, the groups abilitylevels and the nature of the river. With this in mind thefollowing mnemonic is helpful for the group whileriver running;

    etter than cure structor at Glenmore Lodge

  • ThePaddler 8

    Avoidance is better than cure: The over ridingprinciple in safe river running is the art of stayingout of trouble. To help achieve this we need to knowwhat the hazards are and where to find them. Wethen need to spend time working on our skills sowe can position ourselves in such a way to avoidthose hazards. Ultimately we can always walk arapid, as it will always be there for another day.

    Position of maximum usefulness:As river leaders weneed to strive to find the position where we can beof best use to the most number of the group for thegreater amount of time. This is not only importantwhen protecting a rapid but also when paddling. Thisdoesnt only apply to the river leader but also to thegroup. Instilling this into the paddlers we are leadingwill help in the success of the trip as well as thembecoming independent of us.

    Following this mnemonic will help you as a leaderfocus on leading safe trips and will provide aframework for the day. This is not meant to be THEway to a run a river, its a way.

  • ThePaddler 9

  • ThePaddler 10

    Following this guidewill help you as the leader or groupmember have a clearer picture ofwhats involved to paddle thatparticular rapid. It can confirm thatyou can OR cant paddle it. It is atool for new river leaders.

    It is a good idea to take your paddleand throwbag with you. The paddleis great for pointing, stability and areaching aid while your throwbag isready in case someone slips in or tospeed up setting up safety.

    SCOUTING RAPIDSNever go where the mind hasnt been beforeThink there = Look there = Be thereAn area that perhaps doesnt get mentioned a lot is inspecting or scouting a particularrapid. When looking at rapids there seems to be two camps; those who can instantly seethe line and those who need a lot of time, chat and thought over the proposed route. Tohelp those who are in the second camp and also river leaders or those who are coachingthen the following mnemonic can be particularly helpful:

    S.C.O.U.TSection / Current / Obstacles / Understanding / TrainingSection: When scouting a rapid it is important to break it into manageable sections. To dothis we start at the bottom of the rapid and work back upstream. This allows us to seewhere we want to end up and will start to dictate where we enter the rapid.

    Current: What is the current doing? Is it going to help or hinder us? Is it predictable?By asking these questions we start to have an understanding of what our options are.

    Obstacles: What are the obstacles that I have to avoid? Are there any blind spots that Icould of missed?

    Once we have decided on what obstacles are in the way then we can start to have anunderstanding of the route down the rapid.

    Understanding: Once the above have all been determined then we have to make surethat;

    1. I have an understanding of what I am going to do.

    2. My group have the understanding of what they are going to do.

    We might need to repeat some of the above if the understanding is not there.

    Training: Then it comes down to the training we have ourselves or the training that wehave given our group. Do they / I have the skill to complete the route. It might be that Ido but not today! Has the group got the skill to make that line or do we need to goback some stages to re-assess the line.

    Dave is the full time paddlesportinstructor at Glenmore Lodge Scotlands National OutdoorTraining Centre. He has beeninvolved in the development ofthe new awards and providesexpert advice throughout the

    industry on all things to do with coaching, safety,leadership and personal paddling. He is passionateabout all things paddling and specialises in whitewater kayak and open canoe where he will mostoften be found. He is supported in his paddlingadventures and coaching by Pyranha Kayaks, MadRiver Canoes and Palm Equipment.http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/http://www.pyranha.com/http://www.palmequipmenteurope.com/http://www.madrivercanoe.co.uk/

  • To advertise email: [email protected] or call +44 (0)1480 465081 ThePaddler

    + Boats, Kit, paddles and accessories from the worlds leading manufacturers on display. + New products for 2013/2014 + Free demos on site. + Expert advice and information. + Clubs, trips, tuition, coaching, holidays and further education. + Beginner to expert, inland, coastal, white water, sea, surf, SUP there is some thing for every one. + Visit the website for more details including travel, parking, attractions and exhibitors.

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    + New products for 2013/2014 + Free demos on site. + Expert advice and information. + Clubs, trips, tuition, coaching, holidays and further education. + Beginner to expert, inland, coastal, white water, sea, surf, SUP there is some thing for every one. + Visit the website for more details including travel, parking, attractions and exhibitors.

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    + New products for 2013/2014 + Free demos on site. + Expert advice and information. + Clubs, trips, tuition, coaching, holidays and further education. + Beginner to expert, inland, coastal, white water, sea, surf, SUP there is some thing for every one. + Visit the website for more details including travel, parking, attractions and exhibitors.

  • VE Split Paddleshttp://vepaddles.comBy Dale MearsIt gets to a point in your paddling career whenyou push yourself further and further untileventually something goes wrong; for manythis may be a big swim, a near miss, ordamage to equipment. For most eventualitiesthere is a solution: bring a spare boat, packsome extra male/female pride and deal withyour swim booty or carry spares. These are allgood solutions if you can get back to yourmean ride. For years now one solution forgetting out of trouble on the river is a goodset of splits. Generally it will be your paddlethat takes the hit first, whether landing a bigdrop, waterfall or just an unfortunate rockthat got in the way.

    It is a common preconception that splits are thesehorrible paddles that sit in the back of your kayak-heavy, seriously un-cool and if your life depended onthem? Well...

    I was lucky enough to get hold of some of VE Paddlesnew splits this week and give them a blast at theNational Water Sports Centre. Firstly, I paddle with VE

    paddles and have done for years - this is no secret. Ipaddle with them because I love their light weight,power and style. I also love the fact they aremanufactured in Nottingham and a firm believer ininvesting locally. The splits I picked up were destined forSam Ellis, the UKs version of Rambo, for his up andcoming trip to the Stikine - enough said!

    First impressions were very good; I have a set of ProGlass VEs on a carbon shaft so am already familiar withhow these paddles handle. For those who have notpaddled with a set of VEs yet, these paddles are verylight and I couldnt ask for any more power from eachstroke. They are manufactured using very high-endmaterials and you can feel the positive effects of this

    The newTevaSphereWhen you get the opportunity totry new stuff for free, its so easy toaccept and forget. Although with theopportunity to test a new shoe itshard not to notice the subtledifference made by spending all dayon your feet and in and out of thewater.

    The TevaSphere shoes in short aredesigned to be a true multi-sportshoe, which offers performancebenefits across a wide range ofactivities such as trail running,walking, hiking, cross training and inmy own scenario SUP!

    The guys at Teva have reallyidentified the connection betweenscience and athletic development inthese shoes, as I have worn themover the past month.

    Stand up Paddling this summer hasexploded as the hot weather hasgiven a rise to people spendingmore time on UK beaches andtherefore increasing visibility to theemerging and versatile watersportknown as SUP.

    To wear shoes for stand up paddlingmay sound like a joke, but sinceteaching SUP across Wales for sixyears I often hear cries from mycustomers about foot comfort andespecially in the arch areas of yourfeet which ground your supportthrough the board whilst standingand paddling.

    Stability in the these areas wearingthe quick drying TevaSpheres isunsurpassed, two support podsgive you the freedom of a 'centred'experience through the boardwithout feeling like you are actuallywearing shoes, so standing up andpaddling has never felt socomfortable!

    A spherical heel helps the heel torole aiding in a minimalism to theshoe which feels very natural, Ireally enjoy wearing them on or offthe water.

    Matt Barker Smithwww.thesuphut.co.uk

    ThePaddler 12

    Testing,

    Three modelsavailable:

    TevaSphere SpeedRRP PRICE:90.00$120.00. 119,99

    TevaSphere TraileVentRRP PRICE:110.00$140.00. 139,95

    TevaSphere TrailMID eVent RRP PRICE:120.00149,95Support pods

    Sphericalheel

  • gwhen you paddle with them. The splits I demoed were two metreslong so I noticed the extra power straight away. I paddle a WavesportRecon and I could fit these paddles in the back of my kayak easily.Sam paddles a Pyranha Everest and can also fit these in no worries. Ifyoure unsure about fitting some of these splits in your kayak, give Stuat VE paddles a call and he will discuss the length requirements.

    The VE splits I tested featured a two-piece black glass shaft split withan aluminium clamp - lever-locking mechanism. This is used insteadof the old fiddly sprung button system. The aluminium clampmechanism allows you to easily unlock the shaft at the flick of a lever,change the feather to whatever you require using the graduationson the clamp, and even switch from right to left handed (perfect fora group of paddlers with all different requirements). When you haveyour blade set up how you want it, you simply lock down the leverand you're ready to paddle off. To test this I tried a few differentsetups changing the feather as I went in the various eddies. I foundthis effortless and even when wet the mechanism was bomb proof; Icould not twist the paddle shaft.

    Performance wise I noticed no difference to my usual paddles; thesame reliable power, swing weight, strength (even when reallyworking the paddle) and they are still super lightweight unlike mostsplit paddles. I was really impressed with how these paddles handled.They still had the flex I wanted from a glass paddle but with a slightbit of rigidity in the middle of the shaft due to the spigot. I also foundthem great for putting in my van - they took up far less room; thiswould also make them a perfect option for trips abroad whereluggage size is an issue.

    ThePaddler 13

    ThePaddler ezine test station. If youw

    antyourproductreviewedanditwillbeofinteresttopaddlers - email us: [email protected]

    Testing, testin

    These splits will also be extremely popular on the VE paddlestouring range where length and angle adjustment is required tocompensate for kayak load and prevailing conditions.

    When I am heading out on a big trip, or even a club trip, wherethere is a chance of paddle loss or damage, I will be carrying thesesplits. At the end of the day, as paddlers, our paddles are an essentialand important part of our kit, especially when stuck in a gorgewithout one, so a good reliable set of splits are well worth theinvestment. The split joint is available on every paddle in the VE rangecosting 55 per straight shaft and 80 on a crank shaft. For touringrange it can also allow for up to 100mm of length adjustment. All VEpaddles are custom made to your requirements so check outhttp://vepaddles.com for more information.

  • K3 Designs BattleBlade and BambooBlade SUP paddles http://www.k3designs.comBy Tez PlavenieksK3 Designs are a south coast (UK) based, homegrown windsurfing and stand up paddlehardware company who specialise in high endpre-preg carbon equipment.

    The brands SUP paddles have been getting a fair bit ofinterest of late with a healthy number of recreationalSUPers choosing to go down the K3 route. I recently gothold of K3s Bamboo Blade and Battle Blade to putthrough their paces. Heres what I thought.

    Sexy, sexyOn first look both the Bamboo Blade and Battle Bladeare top shelf, sexy looking pieces of SUP kit. The shinypatterned carbon of both shafts, and contrastingbamboo scoop of the Bamboo Blade, bold K3Designs graphics and attention to detail give theimpression that these spoons are top shelf Gucciproducts.

    Well designed, manufactured and finished, the K3paddles look fit for purpose and ready to go towar.

    Battle BladeThe Battle Blade is unique with its shallower blade angle. The idea behindthis is to give a powerful and quicker stroke. Without loss of oomph, therider should be able to catch, pull, release andrecover in a more efficient manner than withmore conventional scoops.

    The Battle Blade shaft is narrow in diameter witha comfy ergonomically manufactured T Gripsitting on top.

    Bamboo BladeK3s Bamboo Blade has a more conventionalswept back scoop than its stealthier looking siblingand the bamboo constructed blade is billed asmore of a wave shredding tool due to thenarrower width which should ensure quicker railto rail changes.

    A slightly fuller shaft than its brother, but no lesscomfortable, with a bulbous top grip completesthe look.

    Onto the waterI tried both K3 SUP paddles in a variety of differentscenarios from waves to flat, small to big andchoppy to glassy. Both performed incredibly well ineach environment and actually it was hard toseparate the two in terms of performance.

    The Bamboo Blade, with its narrower scoop isgreat for rapid and efficient changes whereas theBattle Blade is the most efficient in terms ofpower delivery and acceleration.

    For recreational cruising either paddle would be a goodchoice. The shafts on each stick are both super stiff, withminimal bend, ensuring SUPers get the maximum out of eachstroke and therefore over exertion should be kept at aminimum.

    Speed, cruising and wavesPartnered with a speed/race board I tended to favour theBamboo Blade for shorter sprint oriented sessions while theBattle Blade was better over longer distances (going againsteverything that, on paper, the two sticks are designed for acomplete role reversal!) The angle of the Battle Bladesscoop meant I could keep up a higher stroke rate withoutloss of forward drive. Its narrower shaft felt morecomfortable over distance and help prevent fatigue.

    For cruising and exploratory missions I usually grabbed theBamboo Blade as this felt better in the hands when justdabbling with a paddle. The narrower blade width was alsoeasier going for lazier sessions.

    The most interesting find came when I took the K3s intowaves. Although the Bamboo Blade is marketed as the

    brands wave weapon, and in theory, with its sleekerscoop, should be the case, I found myself time andagain switching to the Battle Blade. This was a purelypersonal preference and may not be the same foreveryone.

    With its narrow diameter shaft and (for me) morecomfortable T- Grip, the Battle was my go tospoon out of the two for SUP surfing. The slightly

    more efficient power delivery made for greateracceleration and therefore later drops right as waves were about to pitch.(I tend to sit right on the peak rather than paddling for a set further out

    back and therefore appreciated the instant red linenature of the Battle Blade). Even though the blade isslightly wider than the bamboo version, I never feltthis was an issue and could still swap from rail torail easily.

    This isnt to say that the Bamboo Blade is any less ofa performer; its just that the Battle Blade suits mystyle better.

    Summing upBoth K3 Designs SUP paddles are top drawer bitsof kit and either stick would be a worthy choice formost paddlers. In terms of which to go for woulddepend on your personal preferences.

    If power is your thing, and you have the necessarytechnique to make wider blades work in waves,then the Battle Blade would be choice. Racerswould also do well with this stick. However, if youprefer a more conventional shape and have alonger paddle stroke then the Bamboo Bladewould probably serve you best.

    Whichever K3 Designs SUP paddle you chooseyoull be getting a high end piece of equipmentthats built to last and finished beautifully. If youveyet to check them out then nows the time

    ThePaddler 14

  • ThePaddler 15

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  • When I look around our stand and see paddlers fromdifferent disciplines and countries, all sharing theirpassion for paddling with our gear, its easy to see whyPaddle Expo is such a key a touch point for the paddlingzeitgeist.Paul Robertson, Marketing Manager, Palm Equipment

    Paddle Expo is the worlds best place to see all themajor paddling brands from around the globe. Its sucha valuable event for us as we see the majority of ourcustomers in a professional and relaxed environment. Itis a showcase for our industry and a perfect place tolaunch our products for the year ahead. For 2014 wevebeen hard at work, re-vamping and improving our highend whitewater and sea kayaking products. Our newpfd line is hotter than the iPhone 6 and just as secret!Come and see it for yourself and join us for a taste oflocal Derbyshire ale! See you there. Pete Astles, PEAKUK

    Paddle Expo gives us the opportunity to meet ourbusiness customers face-to-face, especially as we oftendont see them for the rest of the year. We show newproducts, test concepts and get feedback on our currentline up as well as see what is happening in the rest of theindustry. Having all this in one place helps fuel ourenthusiasm, generates ideas and keeps Pyranha, P&Hand Venture focused on making innovative andrespected contributions to the industry every year.Liz Forshaw, Marketing Manager, Pyranha

    Yes its a great show. I know quite a few people stayon the camp and recommend it.Nick Mallabar, SystemX

    For Valley Sea Kayaks Paddle Expo has become aregular fixture on their events calendar. The fact theshow has grown to become, not just Europes butprobably the worlds most important paddlesport show,makes it almost unmissable from a sales and marketingprospective.

    Valley has attended the show for several years nowand are always easy to spot, with their unique geo-dome stand. When asked about the structure they

    responded, We felt the trade only nature of the showallowed us to be more creative with how we exhibit ourproducts, we wanted something that whilst not closed-in, gave some feeling of intimacy once inside, allowingquality meetings with the many people we talk to. Thecombination of open structure and graphics panels,showcases our products yet provides good meetingareas that arent as clinical as having the traditionalclosed office area.

    This year, like all previous years, Valley will be usingthe Paddle Expo show to showcase its new sea andtouring kayak products and meet a myriad of retailersand distributors from across the globe. Valley feels thatthe continued popularity of Paddle Expo has shown tobe a good barometer for the health of our industry, longmay it continue!Valley Kayaks

    I have always been impressed with Paddle Expo, and Iam looking forward to the next one. As a dedicatedpaddlesports show, Paddle Expo is much morecompact and focused than the Outdoor Retailer showin Salt Lake City. In spite of the smaller size andnarrower focus, the Paddle Expo draws attendees fromall over the world. It is where I get together with myJapanese distributor. Of course, I also talk to myresellers from Scandinavia and elsewhere.

    Paddle Expo is where we introduce new products,and this year we have two new recreational foldingkayaks. The new kayaks have a fresh modern look, andwe have made improvements to both comfort andconvenience. Our new canoe seat pads are 1/2 inchthick 3-dimensional mesh. They combine neededpadding with unrestricted air circulation can improvethe comfort of all traditional style canoe seats.

    I find it very useful to talk to many of our Europeanresellers because they tend to have much more hands-on experience with Pakboats than our Americanresellers do. This way, I get feedback about what workswell and suggestions to improve whatever does not.

    I look forward to seeing you at Paddle Expo.Alv Elvestad, Pakboats

    ThePaddler 16

    What the exhibitors have to say

    PADDLEexpo / Peter-Lintner Photography

    "Even with all oftoday's technologynothing can replacethe benefits ofmeeting face toface... and PaddleExpo is the bestplace to do just that.Its the perfectopportunity for us toshowcase thePerception brandand our productsand to meet withpeople to talk abouteverything that isnew for theupcoming season, allthe time in a buzzingenvironment full oflike-minded peoplewho are passionateabout the paddlesports industry."Perception

  • RETAILER SHOW. EXHIBITOR LIST, VISITOR REGISTRATION

    AND MORE DETAILS AT PADDLEEXPO.COM

    DONT MISS IT: 2. 4. OCTOBER 2013NUREMBERG, GERMANY

    GLOBAL PADDLE SPORTS TRADE SHOW

    RETAILER SHOW. EXHIBITOR LIST, VISITOR REGISTRATION

    AND MORE DETAILS AT PADDLEEXPO.COM

    DONT MISS IT: 2. 4. OCTOBER 2013NUREMBERG, GERMANY

    GLOBAL PADDLE SPORTS TRADE SHOW

    RETAILER SHOW. EXHIBITOR LIST, VISITOR REGISTRATION

    AND MORE DETAILS AT PADDLEEXPO.COM

    DONT MISS IT: 2. 4. OCTOBER 2013NUREMBERG, GERMANY

    GLOBAL PADDLE SPORTS TRADE SHOW

  • ThePaddler 19

    OCPaddler

  • ThePaddler 20

    Welcometo

    CanadasBarrenLands

    Welcometo

    CanadasBarrenLands

  • ThePaddler 21

    West of Hudson Bay in Canada's Arctic, anenormous triangle of roadless tundra, twice thesize of Alberta or Texas, stretches north to thepolar sea and forms the largest singlewilderness remaining in North America.

    Known as the Barren Lands or simply theBarrens, this gigantic piece of the NorthwestTerritories and Nunavut wasn't mapped in anydetail until the 1960s. Hundreds of rivers andhundreds of thousands of lakes are stillunnamed.

    With almost half of its surface covered bywater, the Barren Lands are perhaps bestvisualized as a lake-strewn northern prairie, buta prairie with more rugged hills than flatlandsand pockets of spruce trees that go on for 200kilometres or more beyond the so-calledtreeline.

    By Alex Hall

  • 22

    caribou, somecontaining hundreds of thousands of animals,still migrate across the Barren Lands as they havefor millennia. This is also the home of barren-ground grizzlies, white tundra wolves andprimordial muskoxen. Millions of geese andcountless other birds nest here during the briefbut intense arctic summer. Since 1975, I havemade my living operating fly-in canoe trips onthe remote wild rivers of the Barren Lands underthe name of my company, Canoe Arctic Inc. Thisis the story of one of those canoe trips when theanimals seemed to make an all-out effort to bewhere we were. Here are some excerpts from myjournal of the first nine days of that trip.

    June 28My clients must have mixed feelings about theirfirst day in the Barren Lands. The weather hasbeen depressing a gloomy, frigid day withperiods of near horizontal, wind-driven drizzle,and even a few snow flurries. Summer is late! Thetundra is brown, not long exposed from under itswinter blanket of snow. Many snowdrifts remainon the southern slopes and all of the lakes are stillfrozen. Only the river is ice-free.

    The wildlife, however, has been impressive. As weflew low over the tundra on the approach to ourlanding place on the river, we saw several herds ofmuskoxen, about 70 animals in all. There is stillone herd of 18 within sight of where we arecamped tonight. Despite the sombre look and feelof early spring, there is life everywhere. All of thesmall birds are here on their nesting groundsincluding countless Lapland longspurs and even afew robins. There are long-tailed ducks,mergansers, scaup, Canada geese, herring gulls,golden plovers, and arctic terns. This evening aftersupper, we watched six or seven little wolf pupsthrough our binoculars playing outside their denat the bottom of a sandy cutbank over a kilometreaway on the opposite shore of the river.

    ThePaddler

    More than a dozen herds of

    The weather has been depressing a gloomy, frigid day with periods of near horizontal,

    wind-driven drizzle, and even a few snow flurries. Summer is late!

    June 29Today, we paddled 25 km downstream through a number of shallow riffles and rock garden rapids in weathermuch the same as yesterday. First thing this morning we visited the wolf den, but the pups stayed out of sight, deepinside. One adult wolf howled at us from a hilltop high above the den. Although we saw only one other largemammal all day a bull muskox the river was crowded with thousands of moulting Canada geese, and overheadthere were long-tailed jaegers, gulls, a few eagles, rough-legged hawks and short-eared owls.

  • ThePaddler 23

  • ThePaddler 24

    tonight, the river cuts through an enormous ice field, probably created by layers building up as the river

    One big male, more brazen than the rest, put on a show as he repeatedly approached within

    two hundred metres of us, barking aggressively

    The sky cleared at noon and the afternoon waswarm, around 20 degrees. This evening we havenoticed the tundra is greener than it was thismorning. A few hours of warm sunshine haveworked miracles, it seems, and even some flowershave bloomed. Just upstream from our camp

    alternately overflowed and froze throughout thewinter. It was a novel experience paddling downrapids with sheer walls of ice two or three metreshigh on either side. Along the river today therewere a few small groups of muskoxen thatallowed us to approach them as close as wewanted for photographs. After we made campthis afternoon we walked back in the hills toinvestigate a traditional wolf den I had foundsome years ago.

    As usual, the wolves were there, but we failed totake them by surprise. They spotted us longbefore we reached the den and began howling indisapproval. While four white wolves stayedmore than a kilometre away, one big male, morebrazen than the rest, put on a show as herepeatedly approached within 200 metres of us,barking aggressively.

    There were signs of pups at the den and evensome fresh muskox tracks. On a vertical sandbank above one of the den entrances we foundwhere a muskox had recently rubbed off somewool and had defecated into the den a verycheeky muskox! Just then, two bull muskoxenstrolled down a hillside towards us, but thehowling and barking of the wolves seemed togive them second thoughts and they retreated,albeit at an unhurried pace.

    July 1This morning began with our return to a vantagepoint near the wolf den where we spent sometime watching five cute little wolf pups wrestlingeach other. When we approached the den we gotsome close-up photographs of two of these littlebrown fuzzy fellows before they disappearedunderground for good. Only one of the adultswas visible in the distance.

    Right:Small groups of muskoxen.

    Above:The tundra.

    June 30

  • Later this morning as we paddled downstream,we encountered two or three thousand caribouthat were beginning to swim the river mostlybulls still in their white winter coats and theirantlers not yet fully grown. Just as we approachedthem in our canoes, a light grey wolf ran throughone edge of the herd, scattering many animals.

    At our campsite tonight, we came upon anotherfive thousand caribou along the steep hillsidessloping down to the river. Predominantly cowswith small calves, they eventually swam the riverbelow our camp. Before they did so, however, wespent some time with them at close quarters. It wasa very pastoral scene, the cows lying with theircalves or nursing them as they grazed placidly ontundra plants. Every once in a while, a white orcinnamon coloured calf would go charging off,kicking up its heels just for the sheer joy of runningor burning off energy, it seemed.

    Earlier this afternoon on the river, we came upona herd of 17 muskoxen with five calves, as well asseven bulls just upstream from tonight's camp.Then, as we were pitching our tents, we watcheda wolf charge down an almost vertical slope into

    a densely packed group of caribou. The dust flewas the caribou bolted, and it seemed certain thewolf must have been successful in making a kill,but we soon saw both the caribou and the wolfretreating across the tundra.

    We've had a warm sunny day, and incrediblethough it seems, the tundra has turned green inthe previous 12 hours. The dwarf birch bushesare leafing out and flowers are appearing allaround us. There are pink alpine azaleas, purplerhododendron, cushions of moss campion,yellow and pink lousewort and carpets of littledaisy-like mountain avens. Even the lupines arebeginning to bloom. Suddenly it's summer!

    ThePaddler 25

  • ThePaddler 26

    The tundras wildlife

  • ThePaddler 27

    July 2Today was actually hot. We made camp just after lunchso we would have plenty of time to swim in someshallow ponds warmed by the sun, then hike in thesand hills nearby. The river valley en route to ourcampsite this morning was alive with animals; we sawclose to 80 muskoxen and a few thousand caribou.After our swim this afternoon, several of us wereclimbing up through the sand hills behind camp whenwe surprised a sow grizzly with two yearling cubs thatwere feeding on the rather ripe carcass of a bullmuskox. As soon as the sow became aware of us, shestood up on her hind legs, then thundered off, hergreat body shuddering with every bound, and the cubshot on her heels.

    On top of the sand hills we came upon a herd of 20muskoxen bedded down on a little plateau justbeneath us. There were animals of all sizes, somestretched out asleep, and all of them oblivious to ourpresence. We sat down to rest above the muskoxenwith a spectacular scene of soft green tundra hillsspread out before us, and our metallic-blue riverwinding through the valley far below. As we weresitting there absorbing it all, I noticed the head of awolf poking up above the curve of the hill just belowus. The wolf was watching us intently, but he kept onclimbing slowly towards us and walked into full viewonly a few metres away. An exceptionally large male,and pure white in colour, he seemed at ease butobviously curious as he made almost a full circlearound us. After we stood up and moved on, the wolfapproached us again, then followed us for a while. Butwhen he caught sight of some other members of ourparty in the distance, he trotted over to inspect them.On the way, we saw him jump into a little pond,presumably to cool off.

    Since we wanted to get a look at the country on the farside of the sand hills, we continued walking across thehilltops until a magnificent sweep of tundra openedup in front of us. To our astonishment, it was coveredwith caribou, tens of thousands of flecks of whitescattered across that vast green expanse. There was notelling how many there were because we could see noend of them. For the next hour or more, we sat therehigh on that hill with our binoculars glued to our eyestrying to take it all in.

  • ThePaddler 28

    today, several of which we lined and wadeddown. With the hot sun beating down on us, wemoved steadily downstream under a giganticdome of pale-blue northern sky. Along the way,we encountered 43 muskoxen, a wolverine thatswam the river in front of our canoes, and severallarge herds of caribou feeding and resting alongthe river, perhaps 30,000 in all. In places we werepaddling through masses of caribou spreadacross the slopes on both sides of the river.

    After supper we walked over to a particularlylarge herd that was slowly approaching our campand photographed caribou parading by us for thenext hour. It seemed like the perfect ending toanother wondrous day filled with animals, butfor some of us there was still another littlewildlife drama in store. About 11pm, when mostof our party was sound asleep, a wolf walkedthrough our camp where it surprised and caughta moulting Canada goose that had strayed too farfrom the river. As the wolf lay down to devour

    the goose, a few of us who were still awakewatched from inside our tents.

    July 4The river valley broadened considerably todayand the steady succession of deep canoeablerapids continued. The riverbanks are turningblue with lupine and their sweet fragranceimpregnates the air. Mosquitoes are nownumerous enough to be bothersome when thewind abates. Early this morning we paddled bylarge numbers of caribou, probably part of thesame herd we spent some time with last night.They were feeding and in no hurry to move on.Our muskox count for the day was 28. Tonightwe have our tents pitched on a high bluff with agrand view to the south.

    July 5There were some rain showers in the night andwe awoke to a strong wind out of the north withthe temperature near freezing. At breakfast, Fred told us that when he got up in the night he saw a white wolf looking in the door of the tent next to

    July 3 The river was full of heavy rapids

    In places we were paddling through

    masses of caribou spread across the slopes on both sides

    of the river

  • ThePaddler 29

    his. Then, a few minutes later, after he hadcrawled back into his sleeping bag, he noticedthe wolf peeking into his own tent.

    We put a long day in on the river, but the onlylarge mammals we saw were two bull muskoxen.Even though caribou were absent, we wereconstantly reminded of their presence becausethe whole country was beaten with their tracks,and white caribou hair floated on the river allday. Tonight we are camped at the base of somebig sand hills where we will remain tomorrowfor a day of hiking and rest.

    the temperature near freezing. At breakfast, Fred told us that when he got up in the night he saw a white wolf looking in the door of the tent next to

    July 6During the night, several of us heard wolveshowling way up in the sand hills. Then, whilewe were eating our breakfast, a grey wolfwalked behind our camp, and two white onesmet up in a big wet meadow just downriver.Certain that we are camped close to an activeden, we climbed up into the sand hills afterbreakfast and followed them north. Cut intothese hills are deep ravines, lush withvegetation, where we surprised several smallbands of caribou and one herd of 23muskoxen.

    We spotted the wolf den when we were almosta kilometre from it. It is perched high in thehills with a commanding view of the rivervalley. At first, the wolves didn't appear to behome, but then I noticed a suspicious patch oflight colour on the side of a gully a fewhundred metres behind the den. As we creptcloser, we could see there were several wolvescurled up asleep there, and eventually wemade out a white wolf, a tawny-coloured oneand four brown pups huddled together. Withthe wind blowing strongly, we moved right inon top of them, no more than 20 paces away,before I motioned for a halt. All ten of us werelined up with our cameras aimed inanticipation when I whistled to prepare thosewolves for a shock!

    a few minutes later, after he had crawled back into his sleeping bag, he noticed the

    wolf peeking into his own tent

  • ThePaddler 30

    SIZE: At 9,984,670 sq km and comprised of six time zones, Canada ishuge!. Canada is the second largest country in the world after Russia.The country is divided into 14 provinces. Canada has got three islandsin the top ten biggest islands in the world. They are: Baffin Islands whichis more than double the size of Great Britain and Victoria Island andEllesmere Island which are roughly the size of England. The countryalso has two of the biggest lakes in the world: Great Bear Lake andGreat Slave Lake. Canada also has the worlds longest coastline at151,600 miles (202,080 km).

    NAME : Canada basically got its name by mistake. When JaquesCartier, a French explorer, came to the new world, he met with localNatives who invited them to their kanata (the word for village. Theparty mistakenly thought the name of the country was Kanata orCanada.

    FLAG: Although Nova Scotia was granted the British Empire's firstflag by King Charles I in 1625, Canada did not have a national flag untilFebruary 15, 1965, when its maple leaf flag was adopted by itsparliament. Before that, the red ensign, a British maritime flag, was ingeneral use.

    WILDLIFE: Canada is known as the home of large animals like themoose and grizzly bear, but it is also home to about 55,000 species ofinsects and about 11,000 species of mites and spiders. Canada is alsohome to 2.4 million caribou and 15,500 of the world's 25,000 polarbears.

    There are million-dollar highway overpasses in Banff National Parkwhich have been used by grizzly and black bears, wolves, coyotes,cougars, moose, elk, deer, bighorn sheep, wolverine and lynx. By 2014,there will be 38 wildlife underpasses and six overpasses from BanffNational Parks east entrance to the border of Yoho National Park.Ontario built its first bridge for animals over Highway 69, south ofSudbury, in 2012.

    Wood Buffalo National Park straddles the border of Northern Albertaand southern Northwest Territories. It was created in 1922 to protectthe worlds largest herd of roaming Wood Bison, and the park is alsohome to the last known nesting site of whooping cranes.

    ICEBERGS: Every spring, massive islands of ice broken off of glaciersin Greenland parade through Iceberg Alley, past the coast of Labradorand Newfoundland. Entrepreneurs are harvesting chunks of these coolmarvels for some pretty unique products, including wine, vodka, beer,and even skincare products.

    CANOE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD: You can learn more aboutcanoeing at the Canadian Canoe Museum in Peterborough, Ontario,home to the worlds largest collection of canoes and kayaks. NationalPaddling Day, which was originally celebrated on June 26th, has nowevolved into National Paddling Week, which was celebrated acrossCanada, from 15-23rd June 2013.

    INFORMATION

    Google Map

    ww

    w.th

    ecan

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    org

    CANADA

  • A journey

    ThePaddler 32

    Part two by Katina Daanen

    From the Adirondacks of New Yorkstate to the very top of Maine at theCanadian border, this fledgling inland

    water trail traverses some of thewildest and most remote

    backcountry of northern NewEngland, but its never too far from

    nearby towns and villages. Theroute's variety of flat water,

    swiftwater and whitewater, on arange of rivers, streams, lakes and

    ponds provide extensiveopportunities for canoe and kayak

    recreation. Vibrant communitiesalong the way offer historic hotels,quaint bed and breakfast inns andcamping facilities, as well as diningoptions and heritage attractions.

    Follow Katina Daanen as her journeycontinues in part two. To see last

    months part one click below:

  • A journeyThePaddler 33

    Part two by Katina Daanen

  • NEW HAMPSHIRE: 72 miles (115.9 km)MAPS 6 and 7

    Lake Memphremagog to Connecticut River. Connecticut River to Umbagog Lake.Map 7Map 6

    Stark NH on the Upper Ammonoosuc River. Photo Katina Daanen

    New Hampshire is all about river travellinguntil you reach Errol and cross UmbagogLake into Maine. Linda was my next paddlingpartner and she met me in Island Pond. Wespent six days together paddling underpicturesque covered bridges through quaintNew England villages as well as witnessingthe devastation that a changing economy hasbrought to this area as we portaged arounddams in formerly vibrant industrial towns. Weworried families of geese and were rebukedby ospreys as we descended and ascendedthe watercourses.

    The first 20 miles (32.2 km) is a relaxingpaddle down the Connecticut, which is alsopart of the larger Connecticut RiverPaddlers Trail. Then its back to upstreampaddling 19 miles (30.6 km) of it travellingup the Upper Ammonoosuc River. Next a3.8-mile (6.1 km) portage following roadwaysconnects you to the Androscoggin anotherupstream river segment extending 23 miles(30.6 km).

    The Andro is a popular recreational riverwith nearby outfitters and shuttle services.Water is routinely released from the dams tocreate pleasant rafting trips. Unlike theshallower Upper Ammonoosuc with far lessswiftwater, the Androscoggin has more than adozen Class I-II rapids requiring tracking orportaging of the through-paddler. As anupstream paddler, the rapids will provide, attimes, a cursed challenge. Paddling themdownstream turns them into a joyous ride.Lindas two sons met up with us in Errol,N.H., and we choose instead to spend theday together paddling joyously.

  • ThePaddler 35

    NEW HAMPSHIRE: 72 miles (115.9 km)MAPS 6 and 7

    Overview and factsRivers and streams: 22Lakes and ponds: 56Carries or portages: 62, totalling 55 milesCommunities: 45National wildlife refuges: 3

    Skills needed: Novice to expert, canoes and kayaks. The route includes flat and whitewater paddling, poling, lining and portaging.

    Flow of the trail: Downstream and upstream. Water levels fluctuate due to spring runoff,drought and dam releases.

    Direction to paddle: Sectional and destination paddlers typically choose to paddle downstream.Through-paddlers travel the trail from the western to eastern terminusthat includes 162 miles of upstream paddling.

    Landscape: The trail passes through hills, mountains, forests, farmlands and village centres.

    Stark NH on the Upper Ammonoosuc River. Photo Katina Daanen Adroscoggin River Class II-III. Photo: Kevin Mack

    Along the Androscoggin River. Photo: Kevin Mack

  • MAINE : 347 Miles (558.4 km)MAPS 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13

    Umbagog Lake to Rangeley Lake. Rangeley Lake to Spencer Stream.Map 8 Map 9

    Rangeley sunset

  • ThePaddler 37

    MAINE : 347 Miles (558.4 km)MAPS 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13

    Paddling skillsMany sections of the trail are appropriate for a novice paddler. Most paddlers willchoose flat water segments or paddle in a downstream direction rather than commit toany upstream segments, unless through-paddling. Parts of the trail include rapids up toClass IV and large, exposed lakes subject to wind and waves.

    The following areas are difficult and recommended only for those who possessappropriate paddling skills:

    Downstream Class III and above white water sections:MAP 3: Saranac River between Union Falls and Claysburg (Class III-IV ledges and falls)MAP 6: Nulhegan River between Wenlock Crossing and Bloomfield, Vt. (Class III)MAP 9: S. Branch of the Dead River between Dallas Carry and Stratton, Me. (Class III-IV)

    Spencer Stream to Moosehead Lake.Map 10

    Grand Falls

    Moosehead Lake

    Flagstaff Lake

    A psychological shift occurs when you departErrol. You are almost halfway done. The rest of thejourney will be spent solely paddling through oneof the most forested and least populated states inthe nation. Its impossible not to feel awestruck atthe foot of expansive lakes and rugged mountainranges. So it comes as no surprise that the trailpasses through dense wilderness areas. Threepeople joined me at locations along the trail inMaine to help navigate through this greatbackcountry: Joyce, Kacia and Kay.

    With the exception of Lake Champlainsandwiched between New York and Vermont, thelargest lakes of the trail are found in Maine as wellas longer portages and the longest river segment.Everything about Maine is big including thespectacular 40 foot Grand Falls, one of severalwaterfalls the trail skirts. Wildlife sightings, as wellas the opportunity to see moose, a lot of moose,grow exponentially.

    After traversing Lake Umbagog and passingthrough a third National Wildlife Refuge, Joyceand I paddled for several days across a groupingof lakes each brimming with magnificent vistasand commonly referred to as the Rangeleys.These headwaters of the Androscoggin Riverinclude the sandy beaches of Upper and LowerRichardson Lakes, the well-oxygenated waters ofLake Mooselookmeguntic and Upper Damwhere Fly Fishing legend Carrie GertrudeStevens 1924 record-setting brook trout wascaught and picturesque Rangeley Lake. In earlyAugust, Joyce and I also hit peak blueberryseason. It is here that the Appalachian Trailcrosses paths with the NFCT in the towns ofRangeley and Stratton, where backpackers sharehostels and swap stories with paddlers.

    Kacia found me in Stratton and we put-in onFlagstaff Lake. The impressive Bigelow Mountain

    Range rises from Flagstaffs southern shore. Thelake itself was formed when the Dead River wasdammed in 1950. Two villages were evacuated tomake room for the new reservoir. On windlessdays, submerged masonry evidence of thedoomed communities can still be seen lurkingin its watery depths.

    More portages. More lakes. More rivers The trail leads onward through the most remotebackcountry of the entire trail. At one point,Kacia and I had to walk up predominantlywaterless Little Spencer Stream for miles astream that no one but a through-paddler wouldbe travelling especially heading upstream. Istarted second-guessing taking my daughter here.It took 12 hours to reach our campsite onSpencer Lake where we set up after dark. A five-mile portage followed the next day, but then itwas downstream and smooth paddling all the wayto Jackman, Maine, where Kay awaited our arrival.

    Kay was with me for 12 days and we did themost camping together. We spent only one nightin a cabin on Moosehead Lake after portaging forseveral miles on logging roads and paddling for aday and a half in the rain. With the 92-mile(148km) Allagash Wilderness Waterway (AWW)stretching ahead of us, this would be the lasttown before the end of the trail where lodgingcould be had.

    Moosehead Lake is a clear, natural freshwaterlake with beautiful smooth pebble beaches. Thedramatic 800-foot rhyolite cliff of Mount Kineorises straight up from the water across from thevillage of Rockwood. Unfortunately, we couldntlinger. We left our cosy cabin and were on thewater at dawn taking advantage of a windlesspassage across four miles of open water on thislargest of Maines lakes.

  • Moosehead Lake to Umbazooksus Stream. Umbazooksus Stream to Umsaskis Lake.Map 11 Map 12

    Excerpts for thisarticle were takenfrom The NorthernForest Canoe TrailOfficial Guidebook,copyright 2010 andKatinas forthcomingguidebook, TheNorthern ForestCanoe Trail Through-Paddler's Companion.

    New York, Vermont, Quebec, New Hampshire and Maine. 740 remarkable miles.One extraordinary water trail

  • ThePaddler 39

    The trail covers a 17-mile section of Moosehead Lake from Rockwoodto the Northeast Carry, following the paddle strokes of naturalist andphilosopher Henry David Thoreau who visited this area in the mid-1800s. Kay and I traced his route along the Penobscot River to LakeChesunkook, stopping to eat breakfast at the island bearing his namewhere he was known to have camped.

    One of the more challenging and even Kay will reluctantly admit, mostrewarding portages of the NFCT is the infamous Mud Pond Carry. Fortwo miles it alternates between a three-foot wide stream to a sandal-sucking mire, ending with a lovely stroll through a beaver pond. Afterscooping out the mud between your toes and from under the arches ofyour foot, you then paddle into the 16-mile long Chamberlain Lake andofficially enter the Allagash Wilderness Waterway.

    The AWW is notable for its remoteness, outstanding scenery and wildlifesightings. It was one of the first rivers in the nation designated andpreserved for future generations as a wild and scenic river. There are fourlarger water bodies breaking up the 77-mile long river with occasionalswiftwater to keep paddling interesting. By this point in the journey, it is notunusual for Through-Paddlers to log over 40 miles (64.4 km) in one day.

    The Tramway Carry between Chamberlain and Eagle Lakes isunquestionably the most interesting portage along the entire NFCT. Steeltramway tracks and two commanding steam locomotive train enginesare rooted within the forest where they were left after the logging boomdied in the early twentieth century. You could easily spend hours pokingthrough the rusting history.

    Stumbling upon feeding moose or watching eagles soar continue to behighlights of each day. One morning, just after we broke camp and as theground fog was burning off the mirrored water, a line of geese appeared,skimming the surface of the lake. They silently glided even with thebowline and for the moment, we were part of that flock. And then theywere gone.

    The Northern Forest Canoe Trails last 17 miles (27.4 km) on the St. JohnRiver straddle the U.S. and Canadian border. Kay and I paddled those finalhours on August 25 sashaying between two nations and under overcastskies to Fort Kent, the end of the trail. After all the planning, all thepaddling, all the portaging, this is it. The eastern terminus, and perhaps somefriends and family, await you at Riverside Park in Fort Kent, a lifetime agofrom when you first launched from the visitor centre at Old Forge, N.Y.

    Upstream sections:Out of the 162 miles of upstream paddling required for through-paddling the NFCT, more than half of it occurs within Vermont andQuebec. Upstream paddling means you are paddling against the flow.

    Major segments include:MAPS 4 and 5: The Missisiquoi River in Vt. (74 miles) MAP 6: The Clyde River between Newport, Vt. and Island Pond, Vt./ClassII-III rapids around Derby Centre (30.5 miles)MAP 7: The Upper Ammonoosuc in N.H. (19 miles)MAP 7: The Androscoggin along the N.H. and Maine state borders(Twelve Class I-II sets of rapids over a 23 mile length)MAP 9: Little Spencer Stream in Maine (Boulder fields for 6 miles)

    Tramway engines

    Mud Pond Carry

    Umsaskis Lake to St. John River.Map 13

    New York, Vermont, Quebec, New Hampshire and Maine. 740 remarkable miles.One extraordinary water trail

  • ThePaddler 40

    GETTING THERE AND BACK: Sectional and destinationpaddlers will have little problem utilizing area outfitter and shuttleservices, but through-paddlers will need to figure out a way to getthemselves and their gear home after arriving in Fort Kent, Maineweeks later by water. There are no trains or car rental services ateither terminus points and bus service is limited. A friend or familymember typically aids getting through-paddlers to the westernterminus and/or meeting them at the end. The nearest airport to OldForge is located in Rome, N.Y., 1.5 hours away and from Bangor, Maine,Fort Kent is 3.5 hours away. U-Haul truck rental has been the onlyother one-way means of transporting paddlers and their gear homefrom Fort Kent.

    SHUTTLE SERVICES : Shuttle services are limited by region, butavailable throughout most of the trail. For the sectional-paddler itmeans a return to their vehicle after completing a segment. For thethrough-paddler it can mean getting around a dry river or avoiding along portage.

    BORDER CROSSINGS: A valid passport or other document thatdenotes identity and citizenship is required for entry into Canada andback into the United States for paddling the Quebec section of thetrail (Map 5.) For more information and a list of acceptabledocuments, visit the websites of U.S. Customs and Border Patrol andthe Canada Border Services Agency.

    LODGING AND CAMPING: Overnight options are availableroughly every 15 miles ranging from primitive campsites or privatecampgrounds to lovely inns, motels and cabins.

    FOOD AND RESUPPLYING: With the exception of the lastsection of Maine from the Northeast Carry to Allagash Village, you caneasily shop at local grocery or general stores as you pass through themany communities. It is usually possible to resupply every few days.Another option is to send boxed supplies addressed to local postoffice general deliveries and pick them up as the trail is advanced.There are also many restaurants located along the trail before reachingthe Allagash.

    WATER: Most sections of the trail pass through areas of exceptionalwater quality. Even so, water drawn from these lakes and rivers shouldalways be boiled, filtered or treated. You will also be able to refill yourwater bottles with tap water as you pass through public areas orthrough towns. There are a few exceptions where planning for yourwater consumption is imperative the Missisquoi and Clyde Rivers inVermont. Both of these rivers suffer from agricultural run-off and it isnot recommended that any water be taken or treated from this water.

    BEST TIME TO PADDLE: The trail has a seasonal nature due tonatural and manmade fluctuations in water levels. In late summer, somesections of the trail may be too dry to paddle. Paddlers also need tobe aware of dam releases. Information from water gauges found acrossthe NFCT can be found on the American White Water website.Generally, the water levels (and bugs) are more reliable in May andJune, and the sun and warmth are more reliable in July and August.September and October often provide good paddling weather andbetter water levels than late summer.

    INFORMATION

    Google Map

    ww

    w.no

    rthe

    rnfo

    restc

    anoe

    trail.o

    rg

    NFCT

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    PakCanoes areexcellent for remotewilderness trips or adventurescloser to home. Light-weight, compactfor easy travel and storage, yet rugged, dependable andeasy paddling.

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    Great stability and paddling performance makePuffins enjoyable on the water. With good looks andlight-weight price, they are a pleasure to own.

    Puffin Saranac

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    The Questscombine great lookswith comfort and efficient cruising performance.Quests are ideal travel kayaks. Very light, yet rugged-ly-built with space-age polyurethane materials whichcontain no toxic chemicals the planet will thank you!

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    PakCanoes areexcellent for remotewilderness trips or adventurescloser to home. Light-weight, compactfor easy travel and storage, yet rugged, dependable andeasy paddling.

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    Great stability and paddling performance makePuffins enjoyable on the water. With good looks andlight-weight price, they are a pleasure to own.

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    A new level of flexibilityPoint 65 Kayaks Sweden presents the take-apart Martini! A rigid high-perfor-mance kayak that you can carry with a smile on your face, easily stow on your boat and transport in the trunk of your car.

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    A new level of flexibilityPoint 65 Kayaks Sweden presents the take-apart Martini! A rigid high-perfor-mance kayak that you can carry with a smile on your face, easily stow on your boat and transport in the trunk of your car.

    Go solo, go tandem go triple - go bananas! The Martini snaps apart and re-assembles in seconds. Snap in the mid-section and your Solo transforms into a Tandem. Add another mid section and its a triple! Keep adding mid sections to create the perfect team-building excercise.

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    Distributed in the UK and ROI by Surf Sales Ltd. Phone 01303 850553 | [email protected] | www.surf-sales.com

    A new level of flexibilityPoint 65 Kayaks Sweden presents the take-apart Martini! A rigid high-perfor-mance kayak that you can carry with a smile on your face, easily stow on your boat and transport in the trunk of your car.

    Go solo, go tandem go triple - go bananas! The Martini snaps apart and re-assembles in seconds. Snap in the mid-section and your Solo transforms into a Tandem. Add another mid section and its a triple! Keep adding mid sections to create the perfect team-building excercise.

    www.point65.com

    Distributed in the UK and ROI by Surf Sales Ltd. Phone 01303 850553 | [email protected] | www.surf-sales.com

    A new level of flexibilityPoint 65 Kayaks Sweden presents the take-apart Martini! A rigid high-perfor-mance kayak that you can carry with a smile on your face, easily stow on your boat and transport in the trunk of your car.

    Go solo, go tandem go triple - go bananas! The Martini snaps apart and re-assembles in seconds. Snap in the mid-section and your Solo transforms into a Tandem. Add another mid section and its a triple! Keep adding mid sections to create the perfect team-building excercise.

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  • Tel: 01753 655455 Email: [email protected] R A P I D K A Y A K S

  • ThePaddler 43

    KayakPaddler

  • ThePaddler 44

    NORWAY

    LAND OFWATER

  • Sometime in late

    2012 Nils Dippo

    n, Benni Pfeifer a

    nd myself decide

    d

    to go on a trip to

    the southern pa

    rt of that well-kn

    own kayak

    paradise: Norway

    .

    Most people who a

    re visiting Norway

    with their white wa

    ter kayak head to V

    oss, Rauma

    or Sjoa because in

    the main season th

    e southern regions

    are running out of

    water. So

    we started early th

    is year to catch som

    e of the insane river

    s in the south. So on

    May

    18th we packed o

    ur car and started o

    ur long journey fro

    m Munich to the no

    rth. It was

    an exhausting and

    long drive until we

    reached our ferry in

    Hirtshals, Denmar

    k.

    ThePaddler 45

    NORWAY

    WATERStory by: Flo Fischer

    Photos by: Helga L

    ehner,

    Nils Dippon

    Benni Pfeifer and

    Flo Fischer

  • ThePaddler 46

    It took us another hour in the caruntil we reached our first river, called

    the Skogsga

    No - this isnt a car advertisement(car zipping along an empty road),it is the

    Perfect start for the trip!

  • ThePaddler 47

    It took us just four hours on the boat to reachEuropes white water paradise. Reaching Norwaywe were a little sad to see it was raining like helland we were just prayed that it would stop soon.Luckily, as we woke up the next morning, wefound blue sky, sun and not a single cloud in thesky.

    It took us another hour in the car until wereached our first river, called the Skogsga. Thewater was pretty high, so we decided to run thelower part below the big drop. However, the droplooked pretty cool. So we ran the almost vertical40-foot slide as a warm up!

    As we got up late that day and spent a lot of time,taking photos and videos, we left our boats at thedrop and searched for a place to stay the night.We were so stoked to be right there in Norwaywith the sun in the sky and huge water levels.

    The next morning we woke up with the samebeautiful weather bright sun and 23C. Thelower part of the Skogsga started pretty easywith a few big waves and huge holes until yousee the bridge at the take-out. We then returnedupstream to find more filming areas and weended up scouting countless huge holes andinsane places for video shots.

    NORWAYFACT:Glomma Riveris the LongestRiver inNorway.

  • ThePaddler 48 NORWAYLAND

    OFWATER

  • The following days weather wa

    snt as lucky

    for us. We had scouted the Hom

    erun at the

    Mr, the Gyst, the Husevollelv

    i and finally

    the Austbygdi. However, a lot

    of rain in the

    past week had brought way too

    much water.

    So we decided to make some pa

    rk n huck

    on the Spnemfossen on the Up

    per

    Austbydi with some English gu

    ys we met at

    the Homerun.

    Some good friends told us to go

    over to Voss;

    where there should be perfect w

    ater levels.

    So we decided to leave and dro

    ve over, where

    we fully expected to get back in

    to our boats.

    In Voss, we had much better luc

    k with the

    water levels and found some nic

    e park n

    hucks, as well as some excellen

    t runnable

    rivers.

    The 30-footer at Jordalselvi took

    us many

    long hours to get video shots an

    d photos

    from different perspectives. Mon

    ey drop was

    huge and the lower section of th

    e Strondelvi

    as well! Finally we found some

    small rivers,

    which have been pretty insane

    with a bit

    more water. We paddle the Stei

    nelvi,

    Brandsetelvi, Urdlandselvi and

    a small-

    unknown tributary to the upper

    Strondelvi.

    With just a few days of our two

    -week trip

    left, we were very fortunate to fi

    nd the

    double drop at Teigdalselvi run

    ning at a

    perfect water level, as we had be

    en scouting

    the falls for a few days beforeha

    nd. The bad

    news for us is that it started to ra

    in, so it was

    difficult to take photos and vide

    os but it is

    an insane drop which you cann

    ot find a

    second time.

    NORWAY FACTS:

    FjordsNorway is famou

    s for its fjords, two of which,

    the Geirangerfjord and the Nry

    fjord,

    feature on the UNESCO World He

    ritage list.

    The Sognefjord, the longest of the

    m all, and

    the Hardangerfjord, famed for its c

    herry and

    apple trees, are among the most v

    isited.

    Northern lightsThe Northern lig

    hts are a common natural

    phenomenon in Northern Norway,

    and are

    most commonly observed above t

    he Arctic

    Circle between late autumn and ea

    rly spring.

    Midnight sunThe sun does not

    set in summer over the Arctic

    Circle, meaning visitors to Northern

    Norway

    enjoy 24 hours of daylight this time

    of year.

    More information about kayaking

    in

    Norway: Norway The Whitewater

    Guide by

    Jens Klatt and Olaf Obsommer (bot

    h German

    and English in one book).

    ThePaddler 49

    NORWAYWATER

  • ThePaddler 50

    On the long way back home we decided to takeanother stop at the Mr and Nils decided he wasgoing to get himself on the big water run over thefive waterfalls of the Homerun. It looked a bit scarybut he made it! A perfect trip was over and wehad to go back home, to continue our studies.Next year Norway? For sure!

  • ThePaddler 51

    On the long way back home we decided to takeanother stop at the Mr and Nils decided he wasgoing to get himself on the big water run over thefive waterfalls of the Homerun. It looked a bit scarybut he made it! A perfect trip was over and wehad to go back home, to continue our studies.Next year Norway? For sure!

    Check out their short movie: https://vimeo.com/69358740

  • ThePaddler 52

  • ThePaddler 53

    When Penny McLean went rafting on the Ottawa River and sawkayakers surfing the waves and whipping into eddies, she knew thatswhat she wanted to do. So she signed up for the WomensRetreat Week at the Madawaska Kanu Centre and wasimmediately hooked on the thrill and exhilaration of whitewater kayaking. Shes been to the course every summer since thenand plans to return in 2013.

    By Shelagh MacDonald

    PAMPERED

  • The learning curveis huge and I improved every day. You really have to put alot of trust in your instructor and, at MKC, they areamazing at building your confidence and putting yourmind at ease, said the 44-year old Automotive Engineer.Penny describes white water paddling as living in themoment. She says, You cant think of anything else; youmust focus on what youre doing and go with the flow ofthe river.

    Learning to kayak brought an extra challenge for Penny, asshe was born with just one lung. Consequently, she canthold her breath as long as most people. She worked hardto achieve her goal of being comfortable in the boat both right side up and upside down!

    Working in a male dominated field, Penny was drawn tothe Womens Retreat course to meet women with similarinterests. She loved the supportive and nurturingenvironment where everyone cheered on theaccomplishments of fellow students. And she left withlifelong friends and a great network of paddling buddies.

    Astrid Neuland learned to paddle at MKC 25 years agowhen she was the head chef there in her 20s. But shehadnt been in a boat for more than two decades when shedecided to sign up for the first Womens Retreat Week. Shewas very apprehensive. She was just getting back into

    shape and worried whether she would fit in the boatand would she remember how to paddle.

    Well, it struck a chord with her andrevitalized her love of

    paddling. She, too,

    has been back every year and says eachtime she comes home refreshed andinvigorated. Women learn differently thanmen and its inspiring being among people acrossNorth America with different perspectives and challenges,says Astrid.

    Capsized An exciting moment came for Astrid on the last day of the2012 course. She capsized near the bottom of GarvinsRapid on the Ottawa River. She tried to roll but didntmake it. She set up and tried again and was successful.When I came up, everyone along the shore was cheeringfor me. That was my first white water action roll in 25years and I was so thrilled.

    A former sommelier instructor, Astrid organizes a specialwine and cheese session for the Womens Retreat Week onthe shores of the beautiful Bark Lake. I choose winesfrom Ontario and British Columbia and also look forlocal cheeses to accompany the great wines, she says.

    ThePaddler 54

  • ThePaddler 55

    Women learn differently than men and its inspiringbeing among people across North America with different

    perspectives and challengessays Astrid.

  • ThePaddler 56

    renowned as a place of exhilaration, learning, camaraderie andculinary delights, situated on the banks of the Madawaska Rivernear Barrys Bay, Ontario. Owner Claudia Van Wijk says,Womens Retreat is a unique offering that brings the spabenefits of yoga, massage, wood-fired hot tub, plus the wineand cheese pairing on Canada Day. Theres also a nutritionseminar, athletic therapy assessment and optional pods onslalom technique, sea kayaking and rescue skills.

    Just like all MKC courses, Womens Retreat is offered in a five-day or three-day weekend in either kayak or canoe. The 2013five-day course will feature guest instructors Jesse Stone, amember of the US freestyle paddling team; Gail Shields, anopen canoe mentor; and slalom specialist, Katrina Van Wijk.Whether youre a total rookie or have paddled before, you willbe inspired and energized!

    In 2011, MKCcelebrated its 40thbirthday. It was thefirst white waterpaddling school inCanada, and someof the worlds bestpaddlers havetaught there overthe years. The Swiss-styled chalet is thehub of the resort,with its fireplaceand lovely post nbeam dining room.

    There are three accommodation options:private room, dormitory-style or camping,and you can choose the meal plan or prepareyour own food. Facilities include hot showers,either indoors or the invigorating outdoorshowers.

    A typical day begins with breakfast at 8:00;classes start with a warm-up around 9:00,then a great morning of paddling, followed by a one-hourbreak for a buffet-style lunch on the deck at noon. Afternoonclasses wrap up at 4:00 and a freshly baked snack is waitingon the deck. This is a great time to share stories about thedays activities, relax in the sauna, or just put your feet up. Ahearty dinner is served at 6:00, followed by an optionalinstructional session or film.

    Classes are generally four to five boats per instructor, dividedby skill level. Students range from teenagers up to seniors andcome from all walks of life. Throughout the week, studentswill learn technical skills, safety techniques, water readingand how to have a ton of fun in the waves and eddies onrapids ranging from class I to class IV. Video analysis is usedto help paddlers visualize and learn faster.

    40th birthday

    To avoid mid-week burnoutMKC is internationally

  • ThePaddler 57

    If youre looking for a shorter getaway, MKC also offers two-dayand three-day weekend clinics. The Womens Retreat is alsoavailable in a three-day weekend format for kayaking and opencanoeing, including the additional spa extras like yoga, saunaand athletic massage session.

    classes finish at lunchtime on Wednesdaysand everyone headsoff to Bark Lake torelax, try differentboats or practicerolling and then enjoya delicious barbecuedinner before headingback to camp. Theweek culminates witha full-day river trip onFriday to a differentriver or anothersection of theMadawaska River,depending on abilitylevel.

    Womens Retreat is a unique offering that brings thespa benefits of yoga, massage, wood-fired hot tub, plus

    the wine and cheese pairing on Canada Day

    To avoid mid-week burnout

  • ThePaddler 58The quality and professionalism of MKCinstructors is second to none. They all have apassion for paddling that is contagious and theirknowledge and teaching skills inspire and instilconfidence in their students. Safety is paramountat MKC. All instructors must have certification infirst aid and safety techniques. One of the uniquethings about MKC is that instructors dont teachfor the whole season. There is a rotation ofinstructors and many of them take vacation timefrom their regular jobs to teach a week or twobecause they love it.

    Another great thing about paddling in EasternCanada is the warm rivers. Most of the rivers arecontrolled by surface-release dams, which skim offthe warmest water from the lakes to send itdownriver. MKC is fortunate to hav