the world‘s 1 st free - · pdf filewe set the diamond free the fascination of a...
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T h e w o r l d ‘ s 1 s t f r e e m o v i n g d i a m o n d patent no
US 7.162.891 B2 | EP 133 635 1
we set the diamond free
t h e f a s c i n a t i o n o f a r e v o l u t i o n a r y j e w e l l e r y i d e a
The history of the world‘s 1st free moving diamond
c o n t e n t
1. the liberté®-principle 22. arcana 83. lumina 224. fashion 325. honeymoon 386. facts surrounding 427. gebrüder schaffrath 54
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At A glAnce
incident light
reflected light
Total Reflection
great ideas tend to start with a question:
what ignites the unique fire of a diamond?
Light Movement&
the liberté®-principle
For the past centuries, goldsmiths and diamond cutters constantly tried to reach the ultimate goal of
their craft: how to ignite a diamond’s unique fire? The secret of this fire lies within the distinctive feature
of the diamond, which makes it stand out from all other gemstones: Total reflection.
Hereby, light that falls upon a perfectly cut diamond in the brilliant cut and is mirrored in the diamond
and reflected in such way, that it is projected back at the beholder. The unique fire in a diamond is ignited
if this process takes place repeatedly and light is permanently reflected from the many different facets of
a stone. It is our challenge to capture this process and to make it stand out in the most impressive way.
a new idea has its moment of glory
• Only a diamond possesses the unique
brilliance that we perceive as incomparable
luster and brilliant sparkle.
• Thefireofadiamondiscreatedbylighthiding
onthemultiplefacetsofthediamondandin
turnbeingreflectedbackfromthosefacets.
• This fire is further enhanced by movement
sincemorefacetsreflectthelight.
• Onlyaperfectlycutdiamondwillreflectincident
lightcompletelyand thussending itbackat
the beholder. this process is called total
reflection.
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For the first time ever, we succeeded in incorporating a completely free and mobile diamond into jewellery.
For this purpose a completely new, revolutionary setting system was developed, the Liberté® Principle.
With Liberté®, the foundation was laid to showcase the fire of a diamond in the most spectacular way
possible. With the slightest agitation, the diamond changes its position and through its numerous small
facets it permanently captures the incoming light anew and reflects it back to the beholder in all the
colors of the color spectrum.
The pieces of jewellery manufactured after the Liberté® principle produce a fascinating sight. As with all
models manufactured after this principle, the diamonds are restricted at three points but retain enough
scope in their movement to achieve their exciting display of light in a totally innovative and safe way. Let
us inspire you with this special jewellery concept.
the liberté®-principle a wonderful new technology
the first free moving diamond in the world. liberté®
• Diamonds need light and movement to achieve
theirincomparablefireandbrilliantsparkle.
• Gebrüder Schaffrath developed the Liberté®
principle. We set the diamond free: The first
diamondringwithafreelymovingstoneisborn.
• Withtheslightestagitationthediamondchanges
itspositionand isable tocatchandreflectmore
light.
• Whilegivingthediamondits freedomwekeepit
safeinhissetting.
• TheLiberté® principle was developed by gebrüder
Schaffrathandisinternationallypatent-protected.
At A glAnce
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lumina
arcana
fashion
• the platinum iridium arch (Pt 800) spans the
diamondandsafelysecuresthestoneinits
setting.
• The diamond moves freely at 360°. The
slightest agitation results in a change of
its position.
• Twowingskeep thediamondembedded in
itssetting.Theyspanthewidestpartofthe
diamond-thegirdle-tosafelycontainit.
• As is also the case with this model, the
diamondmoves freelyat360°.Theslightest
agitationresultsinachangeofitsposition.
• Precious stones are protected by a diamond
lined setting that can be incorporated in the
ring band in such way as to retain their
freedomofmovement.
• settingshaveafreedomofmovementof360°
anddisplayastunningsparkle.
At A glAnceliberté® one idea. 3 possibilities
a r c a n a l u m i n a
The diamond is safely held in its setting by a platinum arch. Hereby the stone retains just enough freedom of movement that it will change its position when moved by the slightest tremor.
The arch is made out of extremely hard wearing platinum – iridium, one of the toughest materials in the world.
Two wings secure the diamond at its widest point, the girdle. Hereby the stone retains its ability to move within the setting.
The width and strength of the wings of each mo-del render the platinum iridium arch used in the Arcana series unnecessary.
an arch secures the diamond and completes the shape
wings secure the diamond and present it in full view
The gemstone is set in a specially formed setting that is lined by diamonds. This setting is mounted in the ring band and has the same freedom of movement as all pieces of the Liberté® series.
Through use of this particular setting, the Liberté® principle is enriched by the fascinating world of colored stones.
vivid brilliant gemstones surrounded by diamonds moving in unison.
f a s h i o n
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arcana collection
Ref No. L1001 Ref No. L1001 Ref No. L1029 Ref No. L1011 Ref No. L1028
Ref No. L1102
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Ref No. LA001
Whit the development of the ARCANA 2.0 series within the Liberté® principle, we made it our goal to simplfy and focus on the defining element of a ring: the ring band itself, that wraps around the finger.
arcana 2.0 a ‚one form‘ object
a new generation – the ‚one form‘ object-pure design
ARCANA 2.0 is an immaculate object created from » one piece «.
In creating ARCANA 2.0, the main idea was to use the ring band to create an object made out of ‚one piece‘: the »one form object« is a self contained body, ring band and setting for the diamond in one. With Arcana we are adding yet one more exciting element of design to our Liberté® family.
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Reinterpreting the fascination of scintillating gemstones and creating more excitement through the use of
movement is the driving force behind this innovation. With the introduction of »Fashion« line, we succeeded
in incorporating color stones into the Liberté® principle, while giving them freedom of movement.
Whether as a cocktail ring or as a daily companion – thanks to the Liberté® principle, the scintillating color
stones are even more fascinating to behold in their sculptural ring bands.
liberté® fashion
Ref No. L3001 • GoldcitrinAmethystTurmalin, grünGoldcitrinTurmalin, rotMadaringranat
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liberté® honeymoon when two hearts engage...
Love and Liberté® have a lot in common – wanting to hold on to
something forever while giving it its freedom. This makes Liberté®
Honeymoon the ideal companion for a life together.
With our »Honeymoon« line we offer you a one of a kind jewelry
experience – whether as an engagement, wedding or stacking ring –
we are wishing you a lucky hand in your choice for life…
...when two hearts engage,
holding on for a lifetime
but giving it it's freedom!
engagement or wedding ? with liberté® you make a decision for life.
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Ref No. 10001 + L1001
Once in a lifetime moments call for an exceptional memento. With the »Honeymoon« series we give you
a piece of everlastingness that will be a companion for a life time. For the solitaire rings in the Liberté®
collection we developed special wedding bands and eternity rings that harmonize in perfect unison.
Catch your very own Honeymoon moment with Liberté®.
liberté® honeymoon
Ref No. 20020 + L2026 Ref No. 20020 + L2020 Ref No. 20020 + L2020 Ref No. TR001 + L1001 Ref No. 10001 + L1001
liberté® honeymoon collection
Ref No. 20043 + L2036
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facts surrounding our abc
On the following pages we have compiled all the important information regarding
Liberté®. From its genesis to our very own history. Enjoy!
more information surrounding liberté®
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liberté® and other types of settings variety does it
With introduction of the Liberté® Principle, jewellery design finds itself at the beginning of a new era. For
the first time ever, it was made possible to impart the diamond with movement and showcase its distinctive
feature. Liberté® adds to the plethora of different setting techniques that were developed over the past
centuries. Each setting has its own advantages that should be taken into consideration by the wearer of the
piece. Therefore we are providing you with a comparison of the best know types of settings. Though only
Liberté® showcases the diamond in its »complete beauty«.
liberté® - a fascinating technique with many possibilities
• Twoormoreprongshold thediamond in theringband.
• Partsofthediamond’sgirdlearesetwiththematerialoftheringband.
• Thediamondgirdleisset360°inabaisleset.
• Thediamondis»rubbed«intotheringbandbypushingthemetaloverthegirdle.
• The diamond is »clamped down« betweenthetwosidesoftheringband.
• the diamond is permanently connected with theringbandthroughtheuseofsolder.
SettIng StyleS
baisle
prong
tension
burnish
flush
soldering
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gebrüder schaffrath philosophy
The soul of a piece of jewellery is the diamond. Since 1923, the diamond jewellery manu-
facturers Gebrüder Schaffrath have been awakening the radiant soul of the diamond and
clothing it in an exquisite setting. In doing so, it has become a tradition that we use only
the most precious materials, such as gold and platinum, and the choicest diamonds. We
then use it to add the soul to premium pieces of jewellery on which we place the highest
demands in regard to design and finish. Our long tradition of craftsmanship requires that
we attend to every detail with loving care.
Our long tradition of craftsmanship and the wild passion of the jewelry designer Alexander
Leuz guarantees affectionate and innovative designs, which we create with precision and
perfection. Our certificate »Graduierte Sicherheit«, which confirms the authenticity of every
piece of jewelry, is granted by the competent diamantaire Christian Schaffrath and so is a
symbol of true quality. Unique ideas that unleash a diamond’s fire and revolutionary collections
with personality and charisma distinguish these wearable pieces of art.
Magical Charisma and high quality craftsmanship - creations form the Diamond
manufacture Gebrüder Schaffrath.
innovative jewellery ideas based on traditional craftsmanship
• Since 1923, the diamond jewellerymanu-
facturers Gebrüder Schaffrath have been
awakening the radiant soulof thediamond
andclothingitinanexquisitesetting.
• Thefamilybusinessisinitsfourthgeneration.
• Jewellery designerAlexander Leuz, building
on experience, competence and an acquired
love for detail, developshis conceptswith
innovative spirit.
• The goal is to develop innovative jewellery
concepts with unique idea.
• Magicalcharismaandhighqualitycraftsman-
ship – Diamond creations from Gebrüder
Schaffrath.
At A glAnce
Alexander Leuz • Manufakteur Christian Schaffrath • Diamantaire
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gebrüder schaffrath history 1923 - 1994
15. January 1923 The brothers Adam and Alois Schaffrath lay the foundations of the Gebrüder Schaffrath company and get down to work with six diamond cutters. The small company makes a name for itself in the following years with diamonds with an outstandingly good cut and exact graduation.
1929 - 1936 Gebrüder Schaffrath acquires customers at home and abroad with whose help the company manages to survive these economically difficult times. The number of employees rises to 60. 1941 - 1945 The business closes down during World War 2 but the cutting workshop is badly damaged by bombs.
1946 Germany lies in ruins. Like many others, Gebrüder Schaffrath starts the rebuilding process. The good reputation the company had earned at home and abroad before the war secures orders from America and Belgium.
1950 - 1959 Business recovers. Due to the high demand, up to 400 diamond cutters work for Gebrüder Schaffrath at times in workshops from Hanau to Idar-Oberstein.
1960 The "Knighthood": as one of only six selected companies in Germany, Gebrüder Schaffrath is permitted for the first time to buy its raw materials directly from diamond monopolist De Beers.
1969 A new generation sets itself new goals: Gebrüder Schaffrath designs and produces its own jewellery collection for the first time.
1978 True classics have a design that is beyond trends and fashions: The ring No. 40085 and the earstuds No. 56015 were developed and are still remaining in the collection - Timeless beauty.
1987 Far-sighted investment policy pays off. The company now stands on two strong pillars: diamond cutting and jewellery manufacture.
1994 Alexander Leuz, great-grandchild the founder Adam Schaffrath, joins the company. Gebrüder Schaffrath moves into the 4th generation of family ownership.
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gebrüder schaffrath history 1998 - 2010
1998A new type of setting is developed. In the series »La Luna« a diamond is ‚only‘ set on one side. This was achieved by perfecting the soldering technique. The stone literally appears to float above the ring.
2000 »Diva«, the first »swinging diamond setting« has been created. The basic idea of this collection is to present a diamond that swings in a piece of jewellery by using gravity.
2002 The world’s only diamond with a complete free range of 360° motion is created. Gebrüder Schaffrath presents the collection ‚Arcana‘, manufactured with the »Liberté® principle«, as a world novelty at the international jewellery trade show, Inhorgenta, in Munich.
2003 With ‚Edition 80‘ Gebrüder Schaffrath celebrates its 80 year anniversary. A cut that was especially developed for this occasion, the »Schaffrath Cut« with 80 facets is incorporated in the new »Lumina« series following the Liberté® principle. For the first time, it is possible to produce a Liberté® ring without a platinum arch.
2004 »Vendetta« is the first collection created especially for the pinky finger. The seductive red color of the inlay combined with high quality diamonds makes for a fascinating and magical sight: irresistible dangerous beautiful.
2005 The collection for the ‚pinky‘ is expanded to include color. With »Lollipop« vibrant gemstones harmonize with colorful inlays.
2007 The idea behind the new collection »Unity« is the energetic power of materials in harmony with body and soul. All materials and the sculptural shapes of the ring shank merge together in unity with its wearer.
2009Christian Schaffrath, son of Bernd Schaffrath joins the business. As a strong team, Alexander Leuz and Christian Schaffrath jointly steer this modern diamond manufacture rich in traditions into the new decade with their ideas and visions.
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7.2 gebrüder schaffrath graduierte sicherheit
Gebrüder Schaffrath, family-owned for four generations, attends to the art of diamond
cutting. No diamond are alike. The perfect cut is what matters most: Brilliant cut diamonds
that are cut too pointy or too flat reflect light poorly and therefore have no total reflection.
This is not the case with diamonds from Gebrüder Schaffrath: For over eight decades we have
set a quality standard: the »Graduierte Sicherheit«, the certified security, we vouch for it with
our name. We exclusively use diamonds with the best proportions and cut quality. Quality has
a special name - Gebrüder Schaffrath.
We encourage you to enchant your surroundings with diamond jewellery from the diamond
manufactures Gebrüder Schaffrath.
trust is the beginning of all relationships
No two diamonds are alike. It all depends
mainly on a perfect cut: stones that are cut
too sharp (b) ot too flat (c) reflect the light
poorly and deflect it sidewards or
downwards. This is not the casa with
diamonds from Gebrueder Schaffrath: we
only use stones with a exellent cut (a).
Proportions
Ideal Proportions
Table
1. Crown2. Girdle3. Pavilion
Total Reflection Deep Cut Shallow Cut
G H I J K L M N O P Q R S-Z
Brilliant-Cut
Marquise-Cut
Pear-Cut
Heart-Cut
Oval-Cut
Emerald-Cut
Viktoria-Cut
Flanders-Cut
Princess-Cut
exep-tionalwhite+
exep-tionalwhite
Rarewhite+
Rarewhite
white slightlytinted white
tinted white
tinted colour
internallyFlawless,
Loupe-clean
very verysmall
inclusions
very small
inclusions
smallinclusions
internal characteristics,which can hardly be
found with the naked eye
a b r i e f s t u d y o f d i a m o n d s