1 The boulevard of limes at Unter den Linden in the Mitte district looks like Narnia at Christmas 2 Snowy scenes at the dog run at Volkspark Hasenheide3 The exterior of

sustainable clothing boutique, Möon4 The U-Bahn station

at Kurfürstenstraße opened in 1924 5 Taxi! A snowman

abandons his bike for a speedier ride in an apartment courtyard

*There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people that live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.

How long have you lived in the city? I arrived in October 2009, just in time for the chilliest winter in 40 years.

What brought you to Berlin?In May 2009, I left my native Melbourne and after six months of travelling, my partner and I arrived in Berlin where we knew one person who lived here. I’d never been to Germany before. One month turned into three, three became six, and so on, as we quickly settled into a great community of like-minded friends.

Tell us what makes your city unique.It feels accessible. There’s an ‘anything goes’ attitude I haven’t encountered in other places. I love the mix of old-school locals and Wahlberliners: those who choose to live in the city. And there are many of us. Berlin’s history – the

Weimar years, the Wars, the Wall – all form the city’s fabric. Walking the streets gives you a sense of the past and appreciation for the present. Also, the cost of living is relatively low here, which translates to a high quality of life. Food is affordable, farmer’s markets are dotted throughout the city, bike paths abound. Simple things are appreciated and available. The affordability, compared with London or Sydney for instance, makes it possible for people to rent studio space or spend time working on projects that would not be viable elsewhere.

What is it like in December? Berlin turns into the winter wonderland I grew up seeing in books and television. Christmas markets pop up in most neighbourhoods throughout the month. My favourite one is in Rixdorf and has a local vibe, but the big one at Gendarmenmarkt is fun for a first visit. No matter where you go, there is always something delicious to eat.

MELISA GRAY-WARDMelisa is an Australian freelance writer

living and working in Berlin. She studied English literature and loves reading books and magazines, knitting and

exploring the city with her dog. Find her on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest

as @melisagrayward.

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MY C ITY* : BERL INMELISA GRAY-WARD LOVES THE CHRISTMAS MARKETS AND SNOW-COVERED PARKS OF HER ADOPTED CITY AT THIS TIME OF YEAR

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A glass of glühwein (hot mulled wine) or hot chocolate is essential for warming up frozen hands. The lime trees lining the boulevard Unter den Linden are lit up with fairy lights, contrasting with the darkness that cloaks the city by 5pm.

What time of day do you most enjoy?Berlin is notorious for its nightlife, but I am a total homebody. For me, mornings are best. Shops are closed on Sundays, which means there is a particular stillness on that morning that you rarely find elsewhere.

What’s the nature like? The city boasts more than 2,500 public parks and green spaces. My local Volkspark Hasenheide is around 50 hectares and contains two amazing playgrounds, ping-pong tables, a rose garden, small animal park, an open-air cinema, garden bar and a mini golf course. Throughout Berlin, there are many great places to experience nature.

Where’s your favourite outdoor space? I can’t get enough of our local parks. When it snows, they fill up with children and adults making the most of it. Viktoriapark is one of Berlin’s highest natural hills, and

1 Sunset on the Oberbraum Bridge, looking out to the TV tower 2 The uber-cool Hallesches Haus general store and event space3 Granola pancakes

and coffee at Le Bon will set you up nicely for a day exploring the city4 Melisa’s dog out

enjoying the snow in Volkspark Hasenheide 5 Gleaming bottles of

scent line the shelves at Frau Tonis Parfum, where you can create your own perfume

veggie and vegan options. If you are truly on the run, you can always find a salted Bretzel to keep you going.

What’s your favourite way to get around?Berlin is rather flat and therefore easily navigated by bike. Bike paths run parallel to the road in most cases, so rookie cyclists can feel safe getting around. The U-Bahn train system is incredibly reliable and fast.

What types of shop do you most like to visit? One special shop is the perfumery Frau Tonis Parfum. This petite boutique contains fragrances made in Berlin and displayed in pharmacy bottles. I really love that you can make your own fragrance. The staff will help you to find what you like and what combines well for a perfume that is uniquely your own. I made a blend for my mother’s 60th birthday and sent it home beautifully packed.

Where do you like to escape to?My partner and I usually celebrate New Year’s Eve out of Berlin, away from the city’s fireworks in Brandenburg. Potsdam, the capital of Brandenburg, is a must-see for

day trippers. It is best known for Sanssouci, the Rococo palace, formerly frequented by Frederick the Great.

What has been your best discovery? I’m always finding new things. I step into a different neighbourhood and something captures my attention: wide cobblestone streets, historic bars, gorgeously tiled apartment entranceways.

What do you miss most if you’ve been away?My apartment. The high ceilings and white-painted floorboards make it feel spacious and light.

therefore a popular spot for sledging. If temperatures fall below zero, the canals freeze over. Some choose to walk on them but I’m happy admiring from afar.

Can you describe the light and colours of your city?In sunny winters, white light reflects against the snow to make the streets glow alabaster. My favourite time is autumn, when burnt reds, fading yellows and fawny browns line the streets and are offset against golden light.

Where are your favourite places to gather with friends? I love meeting for brunch at Le Bon. The granola pancakes served with fruit, chantilly cream and butter are incredible. Cold nights are best spent inside watching a film at Kino International, a 1960s cinema on Karl-Marx-Allee in the former East. It is a key screening venue during the Berlinale (the city’s international film festival) and has a gorgeous wood-panelled bar. Tell us about the food in BerlinDecember is all about sweet treats. German festive snacks are quintessentially Christmassy. Try Pfeffernüsse (spice cookies) or Spekulatius (shortcrust biscuit). I’m also a huge fan of Stollen, fruit bread covered in icing sugar originating from Dresden. And Berlin shines when it comes to fast food. I live in Kreuzberg, where halloumi, falafel and houmous can be found on practically every corner. Several Sudanese eateries have popped up in the shadow of Nil, a fantastic indie chain offering meat,

“In sunny winters, white light reflects against the snow to make the streets glow alabaster”

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1 The Brandenburg Gate. Eirene, the goddess of peace, sits atop the horse-drawn chariot 2 Welcoming lights at the entrance to the Christmas market3 Girl on a swing in

Mauerpark, which translates as ‘Wall Park’. The park was once part of the Berlin Wall and a section of the wall still stands here

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What would surprise a newcomer to your city?Maybe how Berliners unanimously love dogs. They go to cafés and bars, fill the parks and can often be seen walking alongside their owner off-leash.

If you could change one thing, what would it be?A wee bit more sunshine would be lovely.

Where would you recommend somebody stays when visiting your city?Hüttenpalast (caravan palace) is an adorable hotel made up of old-school caravans and Scandinavian-inspired cabins inside a former factory in Neukölln.

What keeps you in Berlin and where else would you like to live?I’ve made many great friends, which is part of what keeps me here. Berlin is a very transient city though and you get used to saying goodbye to people. It makes you appreciate the time you have together. Living in central Europe means it is relatively easy for friends around the world to visit but I do find myself craving more sunshine.

FAVOURITE SHOPSMöon Schönleinstraße 10, 10997This sustainable clothing boutique is a new kid on the block – one I instantly fell in love with. Discover organic, hand-made and Fairtrade garments worth investing in. moeon.de

Hallesches HausTempelhofer Ufer 1 ,10961A well-designed general store and dining hall. Pick up some hand-made homewares or cool cacti vases before taking a break for lunch.hallescheshaus.com

FAVOURITE CAFÉORAOranienplatz 14, 10999Dark wood cabinets scale floor to ceiling, fitted with original medicinal bottles and seasonal flowers. This refurbished 1860s pharmacy is now a brasserie and a great place for your coffee and cake fix or something stronger.

FAVOURITE MUSEUMThe Werkbundarchiv – Museum der Dinge Oranienstraße 25, 10999 Lose an afternoon in the ‘Museum of Things’. Home to around 40,000 objects, from wallpaper to kettles, this museum contains exemplary material culture from the late 19th century to the present day.museumderdinge.org

FAVOURITE MARKETWochenmarkt am SüdsternSüdstern 1, 10961 Your one-stop shop on Saturdays for local produce, from fruit and veg to cheese and spreads. Get there for breakfast at 10am.

MUST-SEE PLACE Clärchens BallhausAuguststraße 24, 10117Be dazzled by one of Berlin’s oldest dance halls: a fabulous spot to dine, dance and people-watch. Step in on different weeknights for tango, salsa or swing classes.ballhaus.de/en

BEST VIEWOberbaumbrückeWarschauer Straße 43, 10243Cycling over the River Spree on this double-decker bridge always makes me happy.

MELISA’S PERSONAL TOUR

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