the second and subsequent occurrences. once the offset cone...

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M.O.S.T. Exercises The offset cone weave (below) and U-turn are the cause of more test failures than all of the other exercises combined. The run begins with the rider approximately 10 feet away from and in line with the first cone. The rider must pass the first cone on the left and the second on the right and so on. Three points are deducted for the first cone missed and 5 points if you miss more than one. In addition, 3 points are deducted for putting a foot down once and 5 points for the second and subsequent occurrences. Once the offset cone segment is completed, the rider must perform a sweeping 180-degree turn and perform a right hand U-Turn in the box shown. 500cc bikes and above use the 24’ line while those under 500cc’s use the 20’ line. Five point deductions are earned for touching the boundary lines and/or putting a foot down. Due to the point weighting on this run it is possible to earn 10 points on the offset weave and another 10 on the right hand U- Turn, so this is a good place to focus your practice.

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Page 1: the second and subsequent occurrences. Once the offset cone …millfam.org/terry/MotorcycleExercises.pdf · 2009. 3. 10. · looking for any attempt to brake before the stop line,

M.O.S.T. Exercises

The offset cone weave (below) and U-turn are the cause of more test failures than all of the other exercises

combined. The run begins with the rider approximately 10 feet away from and in line with the first cone.

The rider must pass the first cone on the

left and the second on the right and so on.

Three points are deducted for the first cone

missed and 5 points if you miss more than

one. In addition, 3 points are deducted for

putting a foot down once and 5 points for

the second and subsequent occurrences.

Once the offset cone segment is

completed, the rider must perform a

sweeping 180-degree turn and perform a

right hand U-Turn in the box shown.

500cc bikes and above use the 24’ line

while those under 500cc’s use the 20’

line. Five point deductions are earned for

touching the boundary lines and/or putting

a foot down.

Due to the point weighting on this run it is

possible to earn 10 points on the offset

weave and another 10 on the right hand U-

Turn, so this is a good place to focus your

practice.

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Left turn – normal stop.

Begin this test approximately 30 feet away from

the left hand turn diagramed below. You must

complete the turn inside the boundary lines and

without putting a foot down. Once you exit the

turn, you will make a sweeping 180 degree turn

to a 5’x3”’ box painted on the ground. You need

to be able to stop with your front tire inside the

box and not touching the line and without

skidding. You will approach the box on the 5’

side.

Skidding during the stop is a 3 point deduction

and not stopping in the box is a 5 point

deduction.

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Quick Stop

The quick stop (below) is one of two timed maneuvers.

The rider begins on a start line and accelerates for 35 feet,

stabilizing the motorcycle's speed between 12 and 20

MPH. A 20’ long timing box is then entered; the box is

usually defined by two sets of cones.

When the front tire reaches the end of the timing box

(second set of cones) the brakes are applied and the

motorcycle is stopped as quickly and as safely as

possible. Unlike the controlled stop you do not earn

deductions for skidding, although it isn’t encouraged.

There is a standard distance based on your speed and

you earn a 1-point deduction for every foot over that

standard. In practice if you use both brakes properly

you will be within the standard with room to spare.

There are several portions of this test that cause

trouble for many riders. Points will most likely be

deducted if the rider uses only the rear brake. An

automatic failure will be charged to riders who end up

skidding and dropping the motorcycle, so don’t get

carried away.

The last potential trouble spot is either going too fast

or too slow or anticipating the stop. Examiners will be

looking for any attempt to brake before the stop line,

but if you do you will get one more chance at it in this

portion of the test. You also get a second run if you

are riding too fast or too slow, so take a glance at your

speed. Remember the 12 to 20 MPH speed limit; 14

to 15 MPH is ideal.

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Swerve

The Obstacle Swerve (below) is the

second timed test with the same

target speed of 12 to 20 MPH. The

rider will begin a swerve either to the

left or right as directed at the second

set of cones.

Thirteen feet from the swerve line

(10 feet plus the 3 one-foot hash

marks in image below) is a second

line which is 7’ wide representing a

car and 6’6’ to the outside of that is a

vertical line. The rider must swerve

through the 6’6” opening without

touching the 7 foot horizontal line or

the vertical boundary line to the

outside. It is a 5 point deduction for

touching the boundary. If you are

too slow you get one more chance.

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http://www.idahostar.org/guide/intro.htm

Introduction

This booklet describes several exercises which you can practice by yourself or with a friend. The exercises

will help you develop the skills you need to pass the motorcycle skill test and receive your license. The proper

execution of these exercises will help you in various traffic situations. Do not attempt these exercises unless

you can already perform basic skills such as using the clutch and throttle correctly, shifting and riding in

a straight line. If you do not have these basic skills, be sure to seek instruction before practicing the skills

in this guide. Of course, the best place to learn to ride is in a quality rider education program, if one is

located near you.

Call 1-800-477-4700 toll-free to find out if a rider education course is being offered in your area.

Read the entire guide before you practice. Take the guide with you for reference when you practice.

Keep practicing until you can do each exercise at least five times without a problem. Do not practice for

more than one or two hours at a time. When you get tired, you cannot practice effectively.

Choosing a Practice Area A well-marked parking lot is the best practice area. Be aware, however, of grease left by parked cars. Look

for parking lots that are not used all the time at shopping centers, schools, churches or community centers. For

instance, you might use a school lot in the evening hours, or a shopping center early in the morning.

Once you've selected a suitable location, it's important to gain permission from the owner.

Keep this basic parking lot diagram in mind when setting up drills and exercises.

If the parking lot you choose doesn't have lines, use the dimensions diagrammed here. Mark them using a

tape measure and chalk.

Traffic is your greatest concern. Make sure you check to the front sides and rear before doing an exercise.

Also, make sure you watch out for children and animals and be considerate of others in the area.

Safety Rules

The practice exercises are not dangerous. However, a few safety rules should be followed:

Wear proper protective clothing to include: helmet, gloves, boots or shoes that cover the ankles, long

pants, and long-sleeved shirt or jacket.

Inspect the motorcycle for defects before you start. If you are not familiar with the inspection

procedures for your motorcycle, check the owner's manual.

Check the practice area for loose gravel, glass, grease left by cars, or other things that could cause a

spill.

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If possible, take a friend along to:

(a) Watch out for traffic

(b) Help you if anything goes wrong.

What to Bring Bring five small objects that you can use as markers. Milk cartons or plastic bottles with a little sand or

water in the bottom work well. If you use small objects, bring some chalk to draw markers on the pavement.

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Exercise: Quick Stop on a Curve

Directions Practicing this exercise will help you stop quickly when something suddenly appears in your path on a curve.

Ride to the outside of the line "A". Start, facing marker one at a distance sufficient enough to increase speed to

10-15 mph. As you reach marker one, turn in the curved path indicated by marker two, three, and four. When

your front tire passes marker two, begin braking. Try to stop before marker three. Do this at 10 mph, then 15

mph. Do not exceed 15 mph.

Coaching Tips

Keep head and eyes up; focus on where you want to go.

Straighten motorcycle, then apple both brakes stopping as quickly as possible.

Keep feet on pegs until almost stopped.

When stopped, the left foot should touch the ground first, and you should be in first gear.

Do not skid either wheel.

Problems Corrections

1. Overshooting the final

marker.

1. Apply more pressure to the brakes once motorcycle is straightened from the

lean angle.

2. Motorcycle nearly falls

over.

2. Straighten up the motorcycle, then apple the brakes. Be sure the handlebars

are square with the motorcycle.

3. Rear wheel skids. 3. Apply less pressure on the rear brake and make sure the motorcycle is straight

up.

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Exercise: Turning and Cornering

Directions Practicing these drills will help you in turning and cornering at higher speeds such as curves on highways

and winding roads, especially when the curve is tighter than you anticipated.

Ride to the left around the oval indicated by markers one, two, three, four, five and six. Adjust your speed and

lean angle so that a small throttle opening is held steady through marker one, two and three. Repeat the drill

turning to the right.

Coaching Tips

Beginning speed of 10-15 mph.

Slow down before the turn.

Look through the turn to where you want to go. Lean with the motorcycle.

Hold a steady speed or roll on the throttle gently through the turn.

Problems Corrections

1. Swinging wide of the turn. 1. Look for the exit point. Apply more pressure on the

handlebar in the direction of the turn.

2. Cutting corners too close or turning too

sharply.

2. Look at the exit point. Do not look down. Apply less

pressure to the inside handlebar.

3. Exiting wide out of the turn, making the

oval into a circle.

3. Look where you want to go. Apply more pressure to the

inside handlebar.

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Exercise: Sharp Turns

Directions

Practicing these drills will help you to make sharp turns from stoplights or stop signs, pulling out of parking

spaces or driveways, and turning into a driveways, and turning into a driveway or onto a narrow street.

Drill 1 - Begin riding straight across the parking lot, increasing speed to approximately 10 mph. Just before

reaching the "Begin Turning" Marker, slow down and use both brakes to adjust your speed for making a sharp

turn. As you reach the line or marker make a sharp turn (left or right). Finish your turn as close to line "A" as

you can without touching it. Remember to accelerate slightly coming out of the turn.

Drill 2 - Start at the marker. Begin making a sharp turn from the starting point. Finish your turn as close to line

"A" as you can without hitting it.

Coaching Tips

Keep head and eyes up; look where you want to be at the end of the turn.

Turn the handlebars and lean the motorcycle in the direction of the turn.

Use the friction zone of the clutch as you turn.

Accelerate as you leave the turn.

Cover the rear brake, and use both brakes lightly to reduce speed before the turn.

Practice left and right turns.

Problems Corrections

1. Turning too short or

too long.

1. Keep eyes up and look through the turn. Don't look down.

2. Not sure when or

where to turn.

2. Start your turn when the front wheel passes the start marker. As you start your

turn, turn your head and look to the exit point. Do not look down.

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3. Motorcycle stalls of

falls into the turn.

3. Concentrate on maintaining steady speed or slight acceleration.

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Exercise: Quick Stop, Straight

Directions

Practicing this exercise will help you stop quickly when something suddenly appears in your path.

Approach marker one, shifting to second gear. As your front tire passes marker one, downshift and begin

braking. Try to stop before marker two. Try this at 10 mph, then 15 mph, then 20 mph. Do not exceed 20

mph.

Coaching Tips

Keep head and eyes up.

When stopping, pull in the clutch, downshift to first gear and apply both brakes. Do not release the

clutch.

Keep handlebars straight.

Do not release the brakes until fully stopped.

Try to stop before the second marker.

When stopped, the left foot should touch the ground first, and you should be in first gear.

Problems Corrections

1. Overshooting the final

marker.

1. Apply more pressure to brakes; however, avoid locking front wheel brake.

2. Motorcycle slides

sideways.

2. Sit straight on seat and do not turn handlebars, look straight ahead.

NOTE: It is okay to lock the rear wheel if the motorcycle is going straight.

3. Engine overrevs when

using the front brake.

Close the throttle before braking. Avoid pulling back on the throttle when

applying pressure to the front brake. Squeeze the front brake with fingers only.

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Exercise: Weaves

Directions

Practicing these drills will help you in making quick lane changes in traffic or changes in direction.

Drill 1 - 30-foot Weave - Begin at one end of the parking lot lines or markers. Go to the right of the first

marker, left of the second, right of the third, and so on.

Drill 2 - 20-foot Weave - Proceed the same as you did in the 30-foot weave.

Coaching Tips

Keep head and eyes up.

Turn by pushing on the handlebars in the direction of the turn. (Push right to go right; push left to go

left.) Lean with the motorcycle for the exercise.

Maintain a steady speed.

Problems Corrections

1. Swinging too wide away from the

markers.

1. Look past the last marker, decrease lean angle and push less on the

handlebars.

2. Hitting markers. 2. Look past the last marker, increase lean angle slightly and push

more on the handlebars.

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Exercise: Normal Stop, Straight

Directions

Practicing this exercise will help you stop smoothly, such as for stoplights and stop signs.

Accelerate straight ahead across the parking lot between 15-20 mph (shift to second gear.) Begin to slow down

and downshift at the first marker. Try to come to a smooth nonskidding stop with your front tire next to the last

marker.

Coaching Tips

Keep head and eyes up.

Keep the motorcycle on a straight course.

Begin downshifting and braking at the first marker.

Squeeze the clutch, downshift to first gear and gradually apply both brakes at the same time.

Do not release the front and back brakes until you come to a complete stop.

When stopped, the left foot should touch the ground first and you should be in first gear.

Problems Corrections

1. Rear wheel skids. 1. Apply less pressure on the rear brake.

2. Overshooting marker. 2. Begin slowing and braking sooner.

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Exercise: Obstacle Swerve

Directions

Practicing this exercise properly will help you swerve to avoid a potential hazard. Approach the first pair of

markers. As you reach the markers you should be going 10-15 mph. Make sure you've decided on which

direction you intend to go before starting the exercise. As your front tire passes the first pair of markers, make a

swerve (right or left). Go to the outside of the next marker but try not to cross line "A" or "B". Do not stop;

continue at a steady speed and repeat the exercise.

Coaching Tips

To swerve right, push right until you have cleared the marker, then push left to resume straight ahead.

Push on the handlebar in the same direction you want to go. (Push right to go right, push left to go

left.)

Do not brake and swerve at the same time.

Problems Corrections

1. Unable to properly complete

the swerve.

1. Maintain pressure on the handlebar until you have cleared the marker.

Look where you want to go.

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Exercise: Higher Speed Turns

Directions

Start, facing marker one at a distance sufficient enough to increase speed to 10-15 mph. Just before reaching

the end of line "A", reduce speed, using both brakes. Start at point 1. As you start your turn at point 1, look to

the exit point and gently roll on the throttle throughout the turn. Practice turning in both directions.

Coaching Tips

Look through the turn where you want to go.

Beginning speed of 10-15 mph. Lean with the motorcycle.

Slow down before the turn using both brakes.

Gradually increase speed throughout the turn.

Problems Corrections

1. Swinging wide of the turn. 1. Look to the exit point and push more on the inside handlebar.

2. Cutting corner too close or

turning too sharply.

2. Do not look down. Look at the exit point. Gently roll on the

throttle.

3. Exiting wide out of the turn,

making the oval into a circle.

3. Slow down more before entering the turn, look to the exit point, push

more on the inside handlebar and gently roll on the throttle.

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http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2497

Parking Lot Practice

(Using Target Fixation)

By: James R. Davis

You do not use a parking lot to practice high speed maneuvers. You use parking lot practice to hone your

low speed skills. Here are two exercises that I routinely do myself which require no 'props' or imaginary

lines.

Following is a diagram of an exercise I have found to be extremely helpful in learning to get control of my

bike during slow speed turns. In an empty parking lot find a row of parking lines and approach them

(Green arrow in the lower left corner). At the end of a line make a HARD right turn and continue it until

you are lined up with another line. Ride that line and at the end of it make a HARD left turn and continue

this weaving back and forth (left/right) as often as you can until you can ride each SECOND line. The

diagram shows riding each THIRD line which is what most people can do with a little practice.Â

It is not so much that you learn how far your bike can lean doing this as it is that you learn to

aggressively STEER (not counter-steer) at the beginning of each change of direction and what the bike

feels like as you establish control of it during the resulting lean.Â

And, for those of you that like little 'aids' like small orange cones or half tennis balls to mark your desired

course - I recommend that you NOT use them at all. They encourage too much attention to themselves as

'targets' - you try entirely too hard NOT to hit them if you get close to them, or too hard to get close to

them if you are not very close, and in the process your attention is distracted from the real purpose of the

practice.

However, if you must use something like the cones to keep track of your objective course then I

recommend that you NOT place them on the ends of the lines but rather in the middle of them (at the

spots marked 'X') so that you are encouraged to target 'thru' the turn to where you actually want to end

up - else you will find yourself always too wide (crossing the line.) [This is a secondary lesson. That is,

using the cones at the start of the lines demonstrates target fixation problems. Using them in the middle

of the lines demonstrates that you can USE target fixation to *your* advantage.]

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When you first start doing this exercise don't be surprised that you can make the FOURTH line in one

direction and not even that in the other direction. That is why you are practicing, right? To find out what

your abilities are and improve them.Â

Also, if you find yourself even modestly disoriented while doing this - STOP and recover your sense of

equilibrium before continuing.Â

Finally, if you NEVER manage to be able to make the second line - so what? The objective is not to teach

yourself how to make the tightest turns, it is to teach yourself how to get (establish) and maintain control

of your bike in slow turns. As you learn your limits you can be satisfied with progress made (because you

can see it) and either come back for more practice at another time or not. The bigger your bike is, the

harder it will be to wrestle it into a second line alignment - of course. Again, that is input for you to

consider, not a mandate that you make your bike behave like it's 300 pounds lighter than it actually is.

Now, when you are comfortable and accomplished on this exercise, you can advance to its logical next

step. That is, instead of using the line to get 'stable' (riding vertical) until the line ends, use the cross over

points (red X's) as both your start and end points. Now you will be practicing major shifts in lean angle

from one side to the other. Believe me, that will change how many lines you can handle for awhile but it

will dramatically help your confidence as when you can do this exercise you will have MASTERED slow

speed control!

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The next practice I do and recommend is one designed to help you do rock solid turns from a dead stop.

Put your bike at any cross point in the parking lines (green arrow) - dead stop - then turn your handlebars

full stop to the right or the left. Your objective is to RIDE away from a dead stop with no more than ONE

step and complete a 90 degree turn before crossing a parking line. I have shown what most new riders

tend to do when they try this - that is, they tend to get to the parking line before they are fully vertical

and then go wide as they pick up speed. That is what you are trying to learn NOT TO DO.

The next diagram shows you how to correct that problem. Imagine (or actually use) cones where the red

X's are located and TRY to get as close to those cones as possible. This is target fixation working for you

again. In very short order, because you are focused on the cones instead of the lines, you will find it to be

an easy effort to ride out of any dead stop position and complete a 90 degree turn. In fact, you will find

that you have, at least to start with, actually done a 110 degree turn rather than 90 degrees and you can,

if you want, continue and make the turn into a slow speed circle because you have reached controlled

balance and speed beyond the 'safe' vertical posture you were using as an indication that the turn was

completed before you used the cones.

Once you are able to ALWAYS make the 90 degree turn without crossing the line then you can move those

cones to the ends of the line you start on instead of midway between lines and again use them as targets.

Before long you should be able to make a drive-away 140 degree turn using this practice exercise. (That,

it turns out, is what motorcycle police officers must do during their motorcycle skill competition games.)

One last thing ... slow speed control is primarily a function of your LEFT HAND and anything but gentle

and smooth braking when leaned over at slow speeds results in dumped bikes. So, keep your right hand

OFF the brake lever, and use your left hand to manage the friction zone.

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For those of you who wish to do panic stop practice then here is a diagram that should help you.

Mark a starting gate and measured distances of from 15 to 25 feet. The MSF requires that you be able to

stop within 23 feet from a speed of 20 MPH. From the chart you can see that this means a deceleration

rate of just under .6Gs and a little over 1.5 seconds to accomplish.

A competent rider should EASILY be able to stop within 19 feet while a VERY SKILLED rider can, with

practice, stop within 17 feet at .7Gs. Some racers can stop within 15 feet but that should NOT BE YOUR

OBJECTIVE - it involves attaining a deceleration rate in excess of .9Gs and that, in turn, requires

exceptionally good tires and roadway surface in addition to superb braking skill.

Note that this is a PANIC STOP exercise. Highway engineers in the United States design roadways and

signals with the assumption that at least 90% of all drivers can EASILY stop their vehicles (without any

loss of control) within THIRTY-NINE (39) FEET when traveling at 20 MPH. That's a deceleration rate of only

.35Gs.

Your objective should be to stop as quickly as you can WITHOUT SKIDDING either tire.

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Slow School

Introduction

Learning to make sharp turns at slow speeds is the single biggest improvement in my riding that I've made this

year (2003). It really focuses on the bike's balance and how the bike responds to acceleration a steering, and I

find myself incorporating the techniques into more of my everyday riding.

I want to draw specific attention to the fact that, at least in the beginning, the technique for doing tight turns is a

different technique than normal riding. Eventually it becomes clear that they are quite similar, but merging

them probably won't happen for a while. The "Look, Lean, Roll" and "Look through the turn" that we are

taught initially keeps the motorcycle and the bike's path in our peripheral vision, while the extreme version used

for U-turns has you unable to see the path or even the motorcycle - it relies on your ability to use the controls

without looking at them and without seeing the path you're steering. Eventually you will see that they are

actually the same technique underneath, since they both require that you look to your destination and then bring

the motorcycle around to reach it.

The distinction is important because you cannot properly practice the U-turns by merely making tighter and

tighter turns using your existing technique (looking in front of the bike). You will be able to physically turn the

bike, but you won't be able to do it "on demand" without building up to it.

What follows is an attempt to duplicate the intent (and methods) of BMW's "Slow School" which teaches low-

speed handling techniques that are based on police training. This is not "Official" instruction with any claim to

accreditation; simply a way to pass on some ways of enhancing one's ability to ride slowly and turn tight

corners.

Not everyone will immediately have the confidence to get the necessary slow-speed lean for the 20' U-turn, but

some practice at the limit of comfort will gradually move that limit. Trying to move the limit all at once will

only make for a dropped bike and wounded confidence.

Technique

Riding is generally done in first gear, with the engine at about 2500 rpm, and speed is controlled with the

clutch. Letting the clutch all the way out will give speeds that are too fast for these manuevers.

If the bike feels like it's falling into the inside, engage the clutch more (go faster) and let the centripetal force

stand the bike up more. Trying to stop will only create a prolem, as the bike will want to fall down very

abruptly.

Focus on controlling the bike (as if you weren't on it) using the hand controls rather than "riding it."

You will find yourself turning the bars to full lock. This is good! You have to apply more speed to keep the

bike upright. The goal is to keep the bars at full lock and feather the clutch to give enough speed to balance the

bike. At this point, leaning the bike (by going faster and/or shifting your weight to the outside) is the only thing

that will tighten your cornering line even more.

Sample Instruction Method

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Warmup (aka evaluation)

Ride u-turns in both directions for a while with lots of space available but trying to use the least amount

possible. This will give some idea as to who has the balance and confidence necessary to "push ahead" with the

practice, and who needs to do some intermediate work first.

Practice

Confident group

Small u-turns, with emphasis on turning head/body, then bike; tightening the turn by leaning and using

throttle to stand the bike back up again

Basic (tight) cone weave; not just to clear the cones but to use all available steering to weave through

them

Offset cone weave

20' U-turn

Subconfident group:

Riding slowly in a straight line with higher RPM and using the clutch to modulate speed; then practice

twisting body to work on turning back in the other direction, with emphasis more on the smooth motion

than on the lean

Well-spaced cone weave; simply to work on steering at slow speeds

Tight cone weave

Sendoff

Leave the rider with tips for future self-directed practice.

This can be done by anyone at anytime, given a vacant parking lot.

Cone substitutes: halved tennis balls, styrofoam cups filled with sand or dirt, chalk markings; be

creative, but aluminum cans might be a sliding hazard when run over

Coming up with the proper dimensions

The key is practice.

The course

Cone weave

This is a simple line of cones, tall enough that the rider must move the entire bike around them (not just the

tires). Spacing can vary down to about 12' but spacing of even 20' will force the rider to perform sharp turns,

and this would be greatly beneficial to the subconfident group.

Offset cone weave

This is two staggered rows of cones through which the riders navigate as shown below.

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Tall cones are best but short cones are acceptable. Boundary lines should be provided to keep riders from

leaving the area and making their turns in the "back 40." The exact spacing of the cones really isn't that

important; as long as the rider has to completely change direction within a limited area, the exercise will be

effective. Here is a video (3.7MB) showing the offset cone weave on an R1150RT; the bike is probably doing

17' to 19' U-turns.

Other parking-lot exercises

The standard parking space layout (9' x18' spaces) presents easy opportunities for most people to practice for a

minute here and there. Working up to 2-space (18') U-turns is a great accomplishment by itself, but there is

more fun to be had:

The "Eliminator," the triple U-turn written about in BMWON, is very similar to the middle pattern shown

above:

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Salina HOG Proficiency Course

One of the best ways to develop and maintain motorcycle proficiency skills is to practice slow riding control and technique. Unfortunately, few of us ever do that, due in part to the time and effort involved in setting up practice locations and facilities.

Thanks to some dedicated assistance from Del Palmer and Robert Lambert, we now have a

Proficiency Course available for our members to use. Hopefully, this can be maintained with once

per year re-painting. The course is located towards the Southern End of the old runway just off

Markley Road. Plans are to have some Club activities in this area, but feel free to check the facilities

out on your own. We may eventually have one or two additional exercises available.

The proficiency course currently consists of five different exercises:

Cornering range

The “Iron Cross” or Intersection Exercise

A Circle exercise

Offset Cone Weave

Slow Ride

The following pages have illustrations of each, and a brief description of how they are to be used. As

always exercise caution, wear appropriate safety gear, and ride within your ability while performing

these exercises. Remember that big advances come with a series of small steps. This is a public

use area, and as a result there may be sand, dirt, or other debris on the surface.

The Cornering Range:

The cornering range is shown on the following page, and consists of a 7’ wide riding path with a

number of curves and corners. The goal is to, first, complete the course without touching any of the

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border lines, and second, to do so as rapidly as possible. A proficient target time would be about 40

seconds.

Point “A”: Come to a complete stop, with at least one foot on the ground, before continuing into the

left hand right angle turn.

Point “B”: A left hand changing radius curve.

Point “C”: Come to a complete stop, with at least one foot on the ground, before proceeding into the

right hand right angle turn.

Point “D”: A right hand changing radius curve

Point “E”: “Quick Stop” area. Accelerate out of the last curve to the brake marker (a small tick mark

on each side of the riding path). Apply brakes to make a “quick” or “panic” stop, without locking the

wheels. At full stop, place one or both feet on the ground before proceeding to the exit.

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The “Iron Cross” and Circle exercises:

The Iron Cross and Circle exercises are combined in one location, just north of the Cornering range.

The Iron cross is a series of right, left and U-turns within a constricted area. Approximately 24’ is

available to make each u-turn. As a matter of perspective, almost any production motorcycle is

capable of turning within 18 feet, with an advanced rider.

To perform this exercise, enter at any on of the legs. The idea is to follow the path designated by the

arrows in the illustration, without going outside the boundary line. The exercise should be performed

in both directions.

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The Circle Exercise is located in the Intersection of the Cross. This is a 24’ circle. The idea is to be

able to ride within the circle, without touching the boundary lines.

Offset Cone weave.:

This exercise helps develop quick transitions, and requires the ability to ride smooth teardrop shaped

turns. This is located just to the north of the Cross, at the east edge of the runway. It doesn’t look

like much—just a series of white dots painted on the surface to mark the location of the cones. The

purpose is to ride around the cones in a back and forth fashion, without disturbing the cones. There

should be about a 7’ gate at each cone.

Slow ride:

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This is two more or less parallel lines painted on one of the old airport markers just south of the

Cornering range. The purpose is to ride between the lines at a slow walking pace, without touching

either line.

Ride Like a Pro

Warning: While learning to perform these exercises

and while learning to perfect the techniques

in this video, there is the possibility that

you can drop your motorcycle and damage

it. There is also the possibility that you

could injure yourself. Make sure to wear

proper protective gear. A helmet, eye

protection, leather gloves, jacket and boots

are highly recommended. Be sure your

motorcycle is equipped with crash bars.

The size of the exercises and the time it takes

to perfect them are only a suggestion. Proceed

at your own pace. Make the exercises large

enough to make you feel comfortable while

learning each one. Proceed at your own risk. I,

Jerry Pallidino, assume no responsibility or

liability for damage or injuries that may occur

while learning these techniques.

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