the san francisco call (san francisco, calif.) 1896-02-02 ...€¦ · the latest fashion gossip for...

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THE LATEST FASHION GOSSIP FOR WOMEN AND MEN EVERYBODY is talking about the dinner dance and the domino party. Both passed off with great eclat The very youthful set predominated at the Presidio and had the most delightful time possi- ble. It was a leap-year affair and the girls enjoyed enforcing their authority, in fact thfir sway is being immensely appre- ciated by the beaux. One informed me that three charming maidens were going to see that he had a eood time, for one of them had invited him to dance the co- tillon, another had engaged him for sud- per and the third, really I forgot what the third had undertaken to do, at all events this young man deserves lots of attention. He has such charming manners and is so unaffected that his head is not in the least likely to be turned during '96, and I trust the men who have been in the habit of ac- cepting every possible invitation and have been scarcely civil to their hostesses may be left severely alone and taught a lew wholesome lessons. At both of the large teas on Saturday Fan Francisco's four hundred are fully represented. Much is expected of the Mardi Gras ball, the management being in most excellent hands, and with such spacious and beauti- ful apartments it should be a perfect suc- cess and close the season in a blaze of glory. I must now tell you about my illustra- tions, as you see evening toilets are upper- most in my mind, and small wonder, when I have seen such a number lately, and from now until Ash Wednesday all the pretty girls will be dancing their feet off, and will declare after each dance that they never had a better time in all their lives. One of the gowns is novel, the back, which you cannot see, being entirely of white tulle over white duchess satin, the front being of the satin decorated with trails of chrysanthemums, which reach the knee, and trim the bodice as well. Bands of silver sequin embroidery are used with especially good effect. The white satin frock is exceedingly simple; but artistic^o a degree, the bodice- being draped with pale green chiffon, caught on the bust with diamond orna- ments and falling with pearl-fringed ends to the hem. The bodice of the third ball costume is a soft mass of white chiffon scattered with rose leaves, upon which dewdrops of diamonds appear to have fallen. Round the decolletage are double frills of diamond-studded, ace ordion- pleated chiffon, and the full skirt shows three inches of the accordion-pleated chif- fon studded with diamonds and headed the rose leaves and dewdrops. This last gown is worn by Miss Studholme in "An Artist's Model," which is running in New York, and is the creation, of a well- known English house. In the same play is noted a pink satin skirt decora :ed with gold and silver sequins, with lace on the Kips; and a plain skirt of pale green has a bodice draped like a handkerchief, elabor- ately jeweled ; a green and white- brocaded skirt shows a bodice of emerald green vel- vet with an applique of heavy lace, the top portion of the sleeves of this being clost-ntting, with three frills a la Marie Antoinette, while the belt is white. A dainty gown of white satin is lined with pale pink, having shoulder straps of roses, the short sleeves displayine the top portion of the arm bordered with sable; the bodice of this overhanging the belt, which is of pale pink. In the second act the weary travelers arrive from Paris just in time for the fancy dress ball, and ap- pear in the most interesting of ulsters, "all bearing the Directoire indelibly im- pressed upon their outlines," yet all differ in detail. One of drab cloth has facings of black and white striped velvet, another of gray with yellow facings, and perhaps the best of all is cut like a redingote ana is of green cloth faced with black. The hats for these are said to oe picturesquely appro- priate, allbeing of the three cornered, or punchinello shape. All the actresses also wear huge ruffles of black lace with equally large bows. Another play which has greatly taken the fancy of New Yorkers is much like "Charlie's Aunt" in character. Itis cailed "The Strange Adventures of Miss Brown." The character of Miss Eupheinia Schwartz, German, girl in an English boarding- school, is taken by Miss Nita Allen. Her acting is excellent and so are her frocks; one has a yellow satin skirt with trim- mings of black lace, the bodice being gay with many colored spangles; another of white has" frills edged with black, the colors being of yellow enriched with gold embroidery, odd combinations being the order of the day. Of cours«, many stage eowns are appropriate only before the footlights or for a fancy ball, hut nowadays only the cleverest of designers are em- ployed in creating such gowns, which nat- urally abound in good suggestions for the woman who desires to be thoroughly up to date, and that is the reason I so carefully keep my readers posted concerning the latest creations of the stage. At tne Fortnightly cotillon the girls were as delightfully pretty as ever, es- pecially those in gauzy, fluffyfrocks, for organdies, muslins, chiffons and mulls made even the least beautiful dainty and pretty. Tlifc older members of the club wore handsome silks and laces. A wise niaiden never makes the mistaKe of wear- ing a sown of a very decided hue which may clash with other colors, as the result is bad. However, I know of a case where a very handsome little brunette desired to mate herself conspicuous and well known from the first. She made her debut, very correctly, in the whitest of white gowns, and at once realized that dozens of girls wore white, pale blue, light, pink and Nile green, so she would nave noth- ing to do with such delicate shades, and forthwith appeared at her next dance In a most fetching toilette of crimson and black chiffon, red roses nest- ling in her hair; -her next venture was. a vividorange frock with a touch of green. Both of these costumes were perfectly suc- cessful, the Detite brunette was declared a belle at once, but then she had rarely per- fect taste and all the attributes of a belle, but oh, how the other girls would have liked to have extinguished her, for such vivid garments made their dear little frocks look so faded and washed out when she appeared, and of course this young girl was very incorrectly garbed, as she dressed as a woman five years her senior might have done, as far as colors were concerned, although to be sure the fabrics and styles were suited to her age. A gown I greatly like is the property of a tall, slender blonde. Itis made of the palest pink satin, the hem being trimmed with two rows of white spangled ribbon, roses adorning the fro«t of the decolle- tage. Black and white has been so popular for the past two years that most expected this spring would' see the last of it. However, those best informed write from Paris that white and black will be again worn this spring and summer. To be sure, there is a considerable difference between black with a touch of white and white with a dash of black. Nita Allen showed the effectiveness of this combination wnen sue. had three dozen white ruffles which com- posed her skirt edged with black. White India silks sprigged with black wili be soon en route from the East. However, torquoise blue will probably be the color of the spring-summer. The craze for Delft china has been and is so tTeat that designers of fabric combi- nations evidently nave come to the con- clusion that the same shade of blue as we see in the china on a white ground will be equally popular in silk, so many of the latest taffetas (summery-looking weaves) show Delft-blue figures— usually flowers; warp printed in white. Last summer we had a new line, and an- other one has just been imported which ie far more beautiful. It is like cloth of sil- ver, its surface being described as soft and j glossy, of a perfect silver gray. Many of the grass cloths and other linens h"ave small dots brocaded over them which look like embroidery. Organdies and grenadines will be much worn. The grenadines are arriving in great numbers, some being .as thin as mousseline de soie, while others have large canvas-woven squares. Many have fine velvet stripes and some have wide, solid- colored stripes alternating with rose vines that also form stripes. The dark-ground organdies are also unusually attractive and are to be had in black, blue and dark Prussian blue and navy covered over with beautiful floral designs quite different from the large stiff pansy and rose designs seen a few seasons ago. * Even newer are the patterns which show wide stripes of a solid color on a white ground; narrow stripes in rose, lilac, black, blue or green alternating with white stripes of the same width, and all over Persian patterns with floral and scroll effects in varied colors. It seems entirely too early to begin a discussion of fabrics which are to figure in garments for the next two seasons, and yet Lent has always been selected by those who prided themselves on being "before- hand ' as the proper time to make up all the wash dresses at home, so the dealers are hastening to unpack great cases of the most ethereal weaves suitable for the warmest weather, while the .snow in many places is still lying on the ground. All of us are interested in shirt waists, which are to be as popular as ever, so Vogue thus replies to a correspondent who desires to learn what are to be the newest sum per styles for washable shirt waists: Shirts for the coming season are to be made of cheviot, linen, percale, batiste, linen, lawn, or in fact any of the washable materials. The collars are about two inches high, and turn over perfectly straight, with straight corners comine very close together instead of slanting from wiiere they turn, as fftrmerly. The collars are detachable, thus enabling one to have several for each shirt of the material of which the shirt is made, and of white linen. On the shirts of the thin materials which are to be much worn next season the collars are of white linen. Sleeves are very full at the top and finely ( athered into the armhole. Where they join the cuff they are luller than last year. Some of the cheviot shirts have bishop's sleeves, butthev are not as pretty as in the thin stuffs, as it makes them rather bulky. The cuffs are about three inches deep, and are made of the same material as the shirt and may have square or round corners, the square being smarter. The thin shirts, such as lawn and batiste, have bishop's sleeves and turned-back cuffs, with which no sleeve-links are worn, but buttons only under the cuff, where it is turned back. If one prefers they may have embroidered bands to finish the sleeve. Many of these thin blouses have fancy fronts, insertion let in, eaibroidered bands or fine tucks, and with them may be Worn satin stocks, and pleated belts of different colors. Girls, do not purchase any more black crepon for shirts, as those, of black satin are far more fashionable. They must be of good quality, and in the end will prove less expensive than those of crepon, for the crepon must be made over a good silk, and becomes rusty and dowdy, while the satin wears well and makes an excellent foundation for flounces of black lace, grenadines, etc. 1 also give this week a back view of an bear a close resemblance to the imported Austrian embroideries. The present fancy for Delft china has caused the revival of the old onion pattern. Such designs are not easy of execution, as the work must be closely embroidered in white silk, outlined with the blue. The design calls for a round center piece, and is most effective when fringed. The linen must be very closely outlined in the white silk, leaving a margin of two inches; this can be frayed out up to the circular out- line without fear of raveling when laun- dried. The onion can be had in different, sizes, suitable for center-pieces, caraffes and individual plates; the last, of course, are only used on the bare polished table. It is quite wonderful how fleurs-de-lis as a design for table linen retain their popu- larity. For example, five fleurs-de-lis scat- tered over a piece of linen twenty inches square can be made artistic by drawing close in white filo floss one way, uaing the finest gold thread to darn across. Such a centerpiece should be scalloped in white with pale yellow shot in, forming an irregular upper edge. The same design carried out in white and that lovely new shade of dull green i 3 even more to my likine. The most exquisite of sets are of the finest linens and lawns witu insertions of Honiton and point lace braid in ribbon bow-knot and raised rose designs. The latter is made by the lace being put on in rows on the linen, which Is then cut out, that the prevailing color of the luncheon may appear beneath the roses. These in- sertions and edges may be had in all widths, doylies being made of the nar- rowest. One set which caused me mo3t warmly to express my artistic satisfac- tion was a combination of the lace braids and the finest drawn work I have ever seen. A delightful dinner table I also ad- mired had the Delft pattern carried oat as I have suggested, and in the center stood a tall Delft lamp with fluted shaft mounted on a base of the same supporting the bowl. The napkins each had a tiny onion design in one corneF. j Among the novelties in Delft ware are excellent tailor gown. Nothing could be simpler than this costume, and no one can deny its charms. It is made in a dark purple tone of cloth. The large collar is of white kersemere hemmed with a strap- ping of black satin. The coat is loose in the front and fastens with a double row of smoked pearl buttons set in steel, and on the skirt (and it is an admirable one) the strappings extend themselves to the knees at the front seams, and these strap- pings I consider most disfiguring, and no novelty of this kind will be taken up by toe wise. In all other respects this gown is worthy of commendation and imitation, as itis suitable for all ordinary occasions. The sacque-backed coat is now an indis- pensable garment for fashionable women. The sleeves are of moderate dimensions, and the back hangs in graceful pleats, which are pre-eminently becoming to most figures. A Redfern gown of black cloth is in per- fect taste, it is of black cloth— the finest ladies' cloth made. It has a jaunty jacket with an inner waistcoat of violet velvet showing a small Vest of white cloth. I have seen a model for early spring. It is a rough, checked tweed dress with a collar and revers of plain drab cloth. Only a good tailor can put these strappings on correctly, as it is a delicate and extremely difficult piece of work. In fashionable drawing-rooms tea tables are never seen now, for at 6 o'clock the butler or maid serves the tea from a large tray, usually of wood with carved edges, covered with an exquisitely embroidered lace edged cover. A wooden tray is most used, as one writer wisely remarks that "tne tray may be of silver, but one large enough for the entire service would be too heavy," and it should be remembered that demitasses and spoons should never be used for tea. An ingenious cream and milk pitcher combined has appeared in solid silver; it holds milk in one side and cream in the other. This will be appreciated by tea drinkers, as many maintain that cream utterly spoils tea, while others will have cream', but if tea is not taken a la tlusse milk is most correct. A cracker jar of crocodile stone and silver, made in exact imitation of the.curl- ing stones used in the north, is an attrac- tive novelty for my lady's table. It is hard to realize, but in just about three weeks from to-day Lent begins, so we are beginning already to hear a great deal about fancy work, which can be done during the forty days. For instance, many girls like to make pretty and expen- sive Easter gifts. Let us recommend to them to try for linen picture-frames some of the rococo designs, which long ago superseded the flowered effects. When gold thread is introduced in the conven- tional figures the frame is finished off with a narrow gilt-beading in place of the heavy watered paper. These frames are now used for dainty bits of landscape as well as for photographs. Many sofa cushions are usually made during the penitential season, and for them art linens are to be had in almost every conceivable artistic shade. These are much used for sofa cushions, as is also a new material in black and white a cross between linen and denim which, em- broidered in ti:e bright silks and linens, is especially adapted for piano and table covers. Sofa pillows of the cloth embroid- ered in heavy all-over scrolls in blues, yel- lows and reds are extremely effective and candlesticks four feet high, most curious, but remarkably effective. Harcella. TOE MEN. In New York the Knickerbocker Riding Club held their first meeting a few days ago at Durland's Riding Academy. As usual the fashionable set keep thisclnb very exclusive, and each year it continues to increase in popularity. It was organ- ized by Livingston Center some years ago, and is now in the hands of Messrs. Fred- eric Pierson and Edward Thomas. It is an interesting sight to watch the club ride to music and form figures and quadrilles in the ring. After the regular meeting is over the most expert indulge in jumping. When the season i- over the club gives a dinner, which is always a social event. The Knickerbocker Bowling Club is al- most equally successful, and this season it is predicted that the competition wi.lbe fierce over the "scores rolled up for the silver bowi." In San Francisco there should certainly be a riding club well patronized, as the wheel can never take the place of the horse, and yet how unsuc- cessful all attempts have been of late to form such an organization. Fox-hunting is very popular in Balti- more, the clubhouse of the Green Spring Valley ana the kennels of the EJkridge Club being well attended. A man writing to Vogue wants toknow how he had best have a frock coat made and of what material, as he is only to have one such coat. Many are in the position of this inquirer, so I quote the reply: "If you are to have only one frock coat it is to be assumed that you intend to make it last for a long time—say two, three or four years. You should get a coat which is not extreme in any respect. The men who buy a great many clothes go from one ex- treme to another. Not so very long ago they were making frock coats reaching many inches below the knees. There are men now who have gone to the other ex- ireme and maKe them far above the knee. You will be always right, however, and look well dressed if your frock coat reaches just to the knee. Th> re is sub- stantially only one material; that is black vicuna." "Never have trinkets been less worn than this season," is the remark of a New Yorker, and such is the case as nowadays a well dres»ed man never allows his watch to be visible and bunches of seals are things of a bygone generation. The ultra fashionable are again wearing long frock coats winch have at once be- come popular and look well on very tall men. They are being made in gray with Droad collars of black velvet and cuffs. Green is the color in London, all busi- ness suitings having a mixture of green in them, and as for ties the rage is for black ties with green patterns on them, and the briclit green Tecks :ire in great vogue, and even cigar-cases are made of green leather, although cigar cases of polished silver are considered in good form in New York. From New York comes the information that the high-banded turned-down collars are the favorites for informal -dress, and vary in height from 2% inches to 2 inches. For full dress the best shape is the new straight standing collar, which laps at the buttonhole, the spacing gradually increas- ing until the top of the collar is reached, whim the ends are sli htly poked. The collars that stand straight, and break slightly under the chin, are called poke collars; however, the bent point collar is still seen, especially out here, as it has numerous advocates. An unusually deep cuff is being made by the swell tailors, and "Harbondw of London puts a cuff live inches deep, with the buttonhole 1% inches from the top on all his shirts." Tiie square-cornered link- cuff ifmost worn at present. Scant cuffs, that reveal part of the shirt-sleeve every time the arm is stretched, is not to be toler- ated. C. C. AN EVENING COSTUME. Back of Stylish Tailor Gown. ,A RECEPTION UOWiN. GOWN OF WHITE SATIN, WITH GREEN CHIFFON SCARFS. PEOPEE NAMES. Pronounced Like English, bat With the Bight Syllable Accented. As the English language, has well-settled rules of pronunciation and is welt able to deal in its own manner with almost any possible combination of letters brought into it from other languages, it would seem to be not only permissible, but proper, for English-speaking people to pronounce foreign names according to English analogies. It is not incumbent upon Americans or Englishmen to farnil* iarize themselves with Russian, for ex- nmple, before they may venture to pro- nounce the name of a Russian diplomat or I study Chinese in order to be in a position to mention casually some Chinese proper name brought into prominence by to-day's news. It is enough, as a general rule, to give to the odd combination of sounds pre- sented" to us in dispatches from Janan, Bulgaria, the Transvaal or Venezuela such utterances as the laws of our own lan- guage prescribe. Hit or miss, life is too short to master the orthoepy of every tongue, and we must be content to do the best we tan in our own way. Espe- cially is this the case with proper names that have long had a place in the English language and have had a recognized Eng- lish pronunciation. It is m^re affectation to convert Paris intoParee, or ape the Ger- man pronunciation of the name of Wag- ner, the well-known musician and com- poser, by giving a v twist to the first letter. Paris is Paris and Wagner is Wagner, the names being common and well under- stood. A person in the first enthusiasm of his acquaintance with a foreign lan- guage may be pardoned for airing his su- perior knowledge when uncommon names not .adopted in common English speech are in question, but he becomes ridiculous when he undertakes to impart a foreign accent to familiar names. There is a story of a New York clerk named Gordon, who, after a month's stay in France, became "Gor-r-rdong" and refused to answer to any other appellation. His case was an extreme one, peruaps, but it illustrates the vice (too common) of using with excessive ostentation foreign instead of the more useful and intelligible English pronuncia- tions. With respect to Latin and Greek proper names a stricter rule may, perhaps, be con- ceded to apply. These languages are the implements of culture. The rules of pro- nunciation applicable to words transferred from them into English are simple and few, and well within the reach of every one who pretends to a classical education. A false accent is, accordingly, nnpardon- able, and among classic scholars correct- ness of accent is the accepted test of sound and thorough training. But in the sounds given to particular letters there is room for the manifestation of vanity or im- mature judgment. Cicero's name during the lifetime of the great Roman orator was undoubtedly pronounced Kikero, and Ctesar was Kaisar. Other con- sonants and all the vowels were in classical Latin pronounced in a way which our English letters once followed, but from which they have now for the most part departed. At college it is well to learn what is thought to have been the true Latin pronunciation. All Knowledge is use- ful. But itis unnecessary in quoting Latin after leaving college to aim at a cainful Consistency. In respect, indeed, to names like Cicero and Caesar, which have been domesticated, so to speak, in the English language, the/usual rule applies. They are to be pronounced like English words, only taking care to get the accent on the right Byilable. The English-speaking American people accept, ir fact, the common-sense rule that pure English is always preferable to a potpnilrri of German, Latin and other pronunciations. Baltimore Sun. HAPPINESS. I did not dream, I could not know, That life contained such bliss; Tliat from a. tiny germ could grow Such happiness aa this. Atlast I read the lesson taught In Joy's mys erious eyes As in some sweet wild creature's, caught And brought me as a prize. And this is life—that irksome gift I longed to put away The headlong force that strong and swift Throbs In my veins to-day ! Thorp Is a host ef secret signs And symphonies haif sung, As ifI read between the linet - Id some forgotten tongue. And throueh it all a meaning runs I surely used to know; I must have lived and felt itonce lone centuries ago. A sweet new message lurks between The pulsing waves of light; Dear God, tillnow I have not seen Thy lovely world aright. ScrtbDer**. It is one of life's little ironies that the British rulers of India won't be able to sell opium to the Chinese much longer, in spite of a war to open the Celestial ports to its sale. The Chinese are raising it for them- selves better and cheaper. THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 1896. 26 ' \u25a0 NEW TO-DAY. / [GUARANTEE I jjj- 1 |#f|j{;|N v YOUR I tftssfe* r will positively be beautified. Wrin- r fil 31 7^S?Flls§l& # kles, moth patches, freckles and ? fjtfm \L\nY£i I WEv 4 all facial blemishes removed by my V3^} r^B&&s* personal ofEce treatment. Youth- lifßli^^^^^flvT^ 4 iul freshness restored to the # l l f }i '^B*S^^ impoverished skin and faded com- 4 _^^^^ successfully 5 treated thou- 5 \u25a0 S wKsKg&^'Sß sands at m d * a /^«r-. M^r^^ww S Tkl^l» Dermatological 5 LAST WFFIC J uj^ V Institute (the J J-«rTkOl VVCCrX J . V^.^- r rica) and have . ......or our •s'''<!SlW^'^''- :^/9V* t^ st *' mo °" a^ s '?- VfeV from many a f iiiiii**>r>r\ «i P .iM IIA . <? / *-fl^L^>r-*V happy woman, A Infill 111 i CLEARANCE 5 "i.«snrtSkKiP but the best? WNlrn I. rAKAN r endorsement is my own face. I i II 111 ILI I I ULiLniinilUL A invite the fullest investigation of i imy claims. ' J r^ A ¥ ¥^ | Lola Montez Creme *y£* 5 b A Lb. 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On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday ONLY we will sell the 3-pint size at $1 and the 4-pint at $1 40. THATBIG CHINA STORE A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. WANQENMEIM, 3TERNHEin& CO., 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY.

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Page 1: The San Francisco call (San Francisco, Calif.) 1896-02-02 ...€¦ · THE LATEST FASHION GOSSIP FOR WOMEN AND MEN EVERYBODY is talking about the dinner dance and the domino party

THE LATEST FASHIONGOSSIPFORWOMENANDMEN

EVERYBODYis talking about the

dinner dance and the dominoparty. Both passed off withgreat eclat The very youthfulset predominated at the Presidio

and had the most delightful time possi-ble. It was a leap-year affair and the girlsenjoyed enforcing their authority, in fact

thfir sway is being immensely appre-ciated by the beaux. One informed methat three charming maidens were goingto see that he had a eood time, for one ofthem had invited him to dance the co-tillon, another had engaged him for sud-

per and the third, reallyIforgot what thethird had undertaken to do, at all eventsthis young man deserves lots of attention.He has such charming manners and is sounaffected that his head is not in the leastlikely to be turned during '96, and Itrustthe men who have been in the habit of ac-cepting every possible invitation and have

been scarcely civilto their hostesses maybe left severely alone and taught a lewwholesome lessons.

At both of the large teas on SaturdayFan Francisco's four hundred are fullyrepresented.

Much is expected of the MardiGras ball,the management being in most excellenthands, and with such spacious and beauti-ful apartments itshould be a perfect suc-cess and close the season in a blaze ofglory.

Imust now tell you about my illustra-tions, as you see evening toilets are upper-most in my mind, and small wonder, whenIhave seen such a number lately, andfrom now until Ash Wednesday all thepretty girls willbe dancing their feet off,and willdeclare after each dance that theynever had a better time in all their lives.One of the gowns is novel, the back, whichyou cannot see, being entirely of whitetulle over white duchess satin, the frontbeing of the satin decorated with trails ofchrysanthemums, which reach the knee,and trim the bodice as well. Bands ofsilver sequin embroidery are used withespecially good effect.

The white satin frock is exceedinglysimple; but artistic^o a degree, the bodice-being draped with pale green chiffon,caught on the bust with diamond orna-ments and falling with pearl-fringed endsto the hem. The bodice of the third ballcostume is a soft mass of white chiffonscattered with rose leaves, upon whichdewdrops of diamonds appear to havefallen. Round the decolletage are doublefrills of diamond-studded, ace ordion-pleated chiffon, and the full skirt showsthree inches of the accordion-pleated chif-fon studded with diamonds and headed

the rose leaves and dewdrops. Thislast gown is worn by Miss Studholme in"AnArtist's Model," which is running inNew York, and is the creation, of a well-known English house. In the same playis noted a pink satin skirt decora :ed withgold and silver sequins, with lace on theKips; and a plain skirt of pale green has abodice draped like a handkerchief, elabor-ately jeweled ;a green and white-brocadedskirt shows a bodice of emerald green vel-vet with an applique of heavy lace, thetop portion of the sleeves of this beingclost-ntting, with three frills a la MarieAntoinette, while the belt is white.

Adainty gown of white satin is linedwithpale pink, having shoulder straps ofroses, the short sleeves displayine the topportion of the arm bordered with sable;the bodice of this overhanging the belt,which is of pale pink. In the second actthe weary travelers arrive from Paris justin time for the fancy dress ball, and ap-pear in the most interesting of ulsters,"all bearing the Directoire indelibly im-pressed upon their outlines," yet all differindetail. One of drab cloth has facings ofblack and white striped velvet, another ofgray withyellow facings, and perhaps thebest of all is cut like a redingote ana is ofgreen cloth faced with black. The hats forthese are said to oe picturesquely appro-priate, allbeing of the three cornered, orpunchinello shape. All the actresses alsowear huge ruffles of black lace withequallylarge bows.

Another play which has greatly takenthe fancy of New Yorkers is much like"Charlie's Aunt"in character. Itis cailed"The Strange Adventures of Miss Brown."The character of Miss Eupheinia Schwartz,German, girl in an English boarding-school, is taken by Miss Nita Allen. Heracting is excellent and so are her frocks;one has a yellow satin skirt with trim-mings of black lace, the bodice being gaywith many colored spangles; another ofwhite has" frills edged with black, thecolors being of yellow enriched withgold

embroidery, odd combinations being theorder of the day. Of cours«, many stageeowns are appropriate only before thefootlights or for a fancy ball, hut nowadaysonly the cleverest of designers are em-ployed increating such gowns, which nat-urally abound in good suggestions for thewoman who desires to be thoroughly up todate, and that is the reason Iso carefullykeep my readers posted concerning thelatest creations of the stage.

At tne Fortnightly cotillon the girlswere as delightfully pretty as ever, es-pecially those in gauzy, fluffyfrocks, fororgandies, muslins, chiffons and mullsmade even the least beautiful dainty andpretty. Tlifc older members of the clubwore handsome silks and laces. A wiseniaiden never makes the mistaKe of wear-ing a sown of a verydecided hue whichmay clash with other colors, as the resultis bad. However, Iknow of a case wherea very handsome little brunette desired tomate herself conspicuous and well knownfrom the first. She made her debut, verycorrectly, in the whitest of white gowns,and at once realized that dozens of girlswore white, pale blue, light, pink andNile green, so she would nave noth-ing to do with such delicate shades,and forthwith appeared at her nextdance In a most fetching toilette ofcrimson and black chiffon, red roses nest-ling in her hair; -her next venture was. avividorange frock with a touch of green.Both of these costumes were perfectly suc-cessful, the Detite brunette was declared abelle at once, but then she had rarely per-fect taste and all the attributes of a belle,but oh, how the other girls would haveliked to have extinguished her, for suchvivid garments made their dear littlefrocks look so faded and washed out whenshe appeared, and of course this younggirl was very incorrectly garbed, as shedressed as a woman five years her seniormight have done, as far as colors wereconcerned, although to be sure the fabricsand styles were suited to her age.

A gown Igreatly like is the property ofa tall, slender blonde. Itis made of thepalest pink satin, the hem being trimmedwith two rows of white spangled ribbon,roses adorning the fro«t of the decolle-tage.

Black and white has been so popular forthe past two years that most expected thisspring would'see the last of it. However,those best informed write from Paris thatwhite and black will be again worn thisspring and summer. To be sure, there isa considerable difference between blackwith a touch of white and white with adash of black. Nita Allen showed theeffectiveness of this combination wnen sue.had three dozen white ruffles which com-posed her skirt edged with black. WhiteIndia silks sprigged with black wili besoon en route from the East. However,torquoise blue willprobably be the colorof the spring-summer.

The craze for Delft china has been andis so tTeat that designers of fabric combi-nations evidently nave come to the con-clusion that the same shade of blue as wesee in the china on a white ground willbeequally popular in silk, so many of thelatest taffetas (summery-looking weaves)show Delft-blue figures— usually flowers;warp printed in white.

Last summer wehad a new line, and an-other one has just been imported which iefar more beautiful. Itis like cloth of sil-ver, its surface being described as soft and

jglossy, of a perfect silver gray. Many ofthe grass cloths and other linens h"avesmall dots brocaded over them which looklike embroidery.

Organdies and grenadines willbe muchworn. The grenadines are arriving ingreat numbers, some being .as thin asmousseline de soie, while others have largecanvas-woven squares. Many have finevelvet stripes and some have wide, solid-colored stripes alternating with rose vinesthat also form stripes. The dark-groundorgandies are also unusually attractiveand are to be had in black, blue and darkPrussian blue and navy covered over withbeautiful floral designs quite differentfrom the large stiff pansy and rose designsseen a few seasons ago.

*Even newer are

the patterns which show wide stripes of asolid color on a white ground; narrowstripes in rose, lilac, black, blue or greenalternating with white stripes of the samewidth, and all over Persian patterns withfloral and scroll effects in varied colors.It seems entirely too early to begin a

discussion of fabrics which are to figure ingarments for the next two seasons, andyet Lent has always been selected by thosewho prided themselves on being "before-hand

'as the proper time to make up all

the wash dresses at home, so the dealersare hastening to unpack great cases of the

most ethereal weaves suitable for thewarmest weather, while the .snow inmanyplaces is still lyingon the ground.

Allof us are interested in shirt waists,which are to be as popular as ever, soVogue thus replies to a correspondentwho desires to learn what are to be thenewest sum per styles for washable shirtwaists: Shirts for the coming season areto be made of cheviot, linen, percale,batiste, linen, lawn, or in fact any of thewashable materials. The collars are abouttwo inches high, and turn over perfectlystraight, with straight corners cominevery close together instead of slantingfrom wiiere they turn, as fftrmerly. Thecollars are detachable, thus enabling oneto have several for each shirt of thematerial of which the shirt is made, andof white linen. On the shirts of the thinmaterials whichare to be much worn nextseason the collars are of white linen.Sleeves are very full at the top and finely( athered into the armhole. Wherethey join the cuff they are luller thanlast year. Some of the cheviot shirts havebishop's sleeves, butthev are not as prettyas in the thin stuffs,as itmakes them ratherbulky. The cuffs are about three inchesdeep, and are made of the same materialas the shirt and may have square or roundcorners, the square being smarter. Thethin shirts, such as lawn and batiste, havebishop's sleeves and turned-back cuffs,with which no sleeve-links are worn, butbuttons only under the cuff, where it isturned back. If one prefers they mayhave embroidered bands to finish thesleeve. Many of these thin blouses havefancy fronts, insertion let in, eaibroideredbands or fine tucks, and with them maybe Worn satin stocks, and pleated belts ofdifferent colors.

Girls, do not purchase any more blackcrepon for shirts, as those, of black satinare far more fashionable. They must beof good quality, and in the end willproveless expensive than those of crepon, for thecrepon must be made over a good silk,and

becomes rusty and dowdy, while thesatin wears well and makes an excellentfoundation for flounces of black lace,grenadines, etc.

1also give this week a back view of an

bear a close resemblance to the importedAustrian embroideries.

The present fancy for Delft china hascaused the revival of the old onion pattern.Such designs are not easy of execution, asthe work must be closely embroidered inwhite silk, outlined with the blue. Thedesign calls for a round center piece, andis most effective when fringed. The linenmust be very closely outlined in the whitesilk, leaving a margin of two inches; thiscan be frayed out up to the circular out-line without fear of raveling when laun-dried. The onion can be had in different,sizes, suitable for center-pieces, caraffesand individual plates; the last, of course,are only used on the bare polished table.

Itis quite wonderful how fleurs-de-lis asa design for table linen retain their popu-larity. For example, five fleurs-de-lis scat-tered over a piece of linen twenty inchessquare can be made artistic by drawingclose in white filo floss one way, uaing thefinest gold thread to darn across. Such acenterpiece should be scalloped in whitewith pale yellow shot in, forming anirregular upper edge. The same designcarried out in white and that lovely newshade of dull green i3even more to mylikine.

The most exquisite of sets are of thefinest linens and lawns witu insertions ofHoniton and point lace braid in ribbonbow-knot and raised rose designs. Thelatter is made by the lace being put on inrows on the linen, which Is then cut out,that the prevailing color of the luncheonmay appear beneath the roses. These in-sertions and edges may be had in allwidths, doylies being made of the nar-rowest. One set which caused me mo3twarmly to express my artistic satisfac-tion was a combination of the lace braidsand the finest drawn work Ihave everseen.

A delightful dinner table Ialso ad-mired had the Delft pattern carried oatasIhave suggested, and in the centerstood a tall Delft lamp with fluted shaftmounted on a base of the same supportingthe bowl. The napkins each had a tinyonion design inone corneF.

j Among the novelties in Delft ware are

excellent tailor gown. Nothing could besimpler than this costume, and no onecan deny its charms. Itis made ina darkpurple tone of cloth. The large collar isof white kersemere hemmed with a strap-ping of black satin. The coat is loose inthe front and fastens with a double row ofsmoked pearl buttons set insteel, and onthe skirt (and itis an admirable one) thestrappings extend themselves to theknees at the front seams, and these strap-pingsIconsider most disfiguring, and nonovelty of this kind willbe taken up bytoe wise. In all other respects this gownis worthy of commendation and imitation,as itis suitable for all ordinary occasions.

The sacque-backed coat is now an indis-pensable garment for fashionable women.The sleeves are of moderate dimensions,and the back hangs in graceful pleats,which are pre-eminently becoming to mostfigures.

A Redfern gown of black cloth is inper-fect taste, it is of black cloth— the finestladies' cloth made. Ithas a jaunty jacketwith an inner waistcoat of violet velvetshowing a small Vest of white cloth. Ihave seen a model for early spring. Itisa rough, checked tweed dress with a collarand revers of plain drab cloth. Only agood tailor can put these strappings oncorrectly, as itis a delicate and extremelydifficultpiece of work.

In fashionable drawing-rooms tea tablesare never seen now, for at 6 o'clock thebutler or maid serves the tea from a largetray, usually of wood with carved edges,covered with an exquisitely embroideredlace edged cover. A wooden tray is mostused, as one writer wisely remarks that"tne tray may be of silver, but one largeenough for the entire service would be tooheavy," and itshould be remembered thatdemitasses and spoons should never beused for tea.

An ingenious cream and milk pitchercombined has appeared in solid silver; itholds milk inone side and cream in theother. This will be appreciated by teadrinkers, as many maintain that creamutterly spoils tea, while others will havecream', but if tea is not taken a la tlussemilk is most correct.

A cracker jar of crocodile stone andsilver, made inexact imitation of the.curl-ing stones used in the north, is an attrac-tive novelty for my lady's table.

It is hard to realize, but in just aboutthree weeks from to-day Lent begins, sowe are beginning already to hear a greatdeal about fancy work, which can be doneduring the forty days. For instance,many girls like to make pretty and expen-sive Easter gifts. Let us recommend tothem to try for linen picture-frames someof the rococo designs, which long agosuperseded the flowered effects. Whengold thread is introduced in the conven-tional figures the frame is finished offwitha narrow gilt-beading in place of the heavywatered paper. These frames are nowused for dainty bits of landscape as well asfor photographs.

Many sofa cushions are usually madeduring the penitential season, and forthem art linens are to be had in almostevery conceivable artistic shade. Theseare much used for sofa cushions, as is alsoa new material in black and white

—a cross

between linen and denim—

which, em-broidered in ti:e bright silks and linens, isespecially adapted for piano and tablecovers. Sofa pillows of the cloth embroid-ered in heavy all-over scrolls in blues, yel-lows and reds are extremely effective and

candlesticks four feet high, most curious,but remarkably effective. Harcella.

TOE MEN.InNew York the Knickerbocker Riding

Club held their first meeting a few daysago at Durland's Riding Academy. Asusual the fashionable set keep thisclnbvery exclusive, and each year itcontinuesto increase in popularity. It was organ-ized by Livingston Center some years ago,and is now in the hands of Messrs. Fred-eric Pierson and Edward Thomas. Itisan interesting sight to watch the club rideto music and form figures and quadrillesin the ring. After the regular meeting isover the most expert indulge in jumping.When the season i-over the club gives adinner, which is always a social event.

The Knickerbocker Bowling Club is al-most equally successful, and this seasonitis predicted that the competition wi.lbefierce over the "scores rolled up for thesilver bowi." In San Francisco thereshould certainly be a riding club wellpatronized, as the wheel can never takethe place of the horse, and yet how unsuc-cessful all attempts have been of late toform such an organization.

Fox-hunting is very popular in Balti-more, the clubhouse of the Green SpringValley ana the kennels of the EJkridgeClub being well attended.

A man writing to Vogue wants toknowhow he had best have a frock coat madeand of what material, as he is only to haveone such coat. Many are in the positionof this inquirer, so Iquote the reply: "Ifyou are to have only one frock coat itis tobe assumed that you intend to make itlastfor a long time— say two, three or fouryears. You should get a coat which is notextreme in any respect. The men whobuy a great many clothes go from one ex-treme to another. Not so very long agothey were making frock coats reachingmany inches below the knees. There aremen now who have gone to the other ex-ireme and maKe them far above the knee.You will be always right, however, andlook well dressed if your frock coatreaches just to the knee. Th> re is sub-stantially only one material; that is blackvicuna."

"Never have trinkets been less worn thanthis season," is the remark of a NewYorker, and such is the case as nowadays awell dres»ed man never allows his watchto be visible and bunches ofseals are thingsof a bygone generation.

The ultra fashionable are again wearinglong frock coats winch have at once be-come popular and look well on very tallmen. They are being made in gray withDroad collars of black velvet and cuffs.

Green is the color in London, all busi-ness suitings having a mixture of green inthem, and as for ties the rage is for blackties withgreen patterns on them, and thebriclit green Tecks :ire ingreat vogue, andeven cigar-cases are made of green leather,although cigar cases of polished silver areconsidered in good form inNew York.

From New York comes the informationthat the high-banded turned-down collarsare the favorites for informal -dress, andvary inheight from 2% inches to 2 inches.For fulldress the best shape is the newstraight standing collar, which laps at thebuttonhole, the spacing gradually increas-ing until the top of the collar is reached,whim the ends are sli htly poked. Thecollars that stand straight, and breakslightly under the chin, are called pokecollars; however, the bent point collar is

still seen, especially out here, as it hasnumerous advocates.

An unusually deep cuff is being madeby the swell tailors, and "Harbondw ofLondon puts a cuff live inches deep, withthe buttonhole 1% inches from the top onall his shirts." Tiie square-cornered link-cuff ifmost worn at present. Scant cuffs,that reveal part of the shirt-sleeve everytime the arm is stretched, is not to be toler-ated. C. C.

AN EVENING COSTUME.

Back of Stylish Tailor Gown.

,A RECEPTION UOWiN.

GOWN OF WHITE SATIN, WITH GREEN CHIFFON SCARFS.

PEOPEE NAMES.Pronounced Like English,bat With the

Bight Syllable Accented.As the English language, has well-settled

rules of pronunciation and is welt able todeal in its own manner with almost anypossible combination of letters broughtinto it from other languages, it wouldseem to be not only permissible, butproper, for English-speaking people topronounce foreign names according toEnglish analogies. It is not incumbentupon Americans or Englishmen to farnil*iarize themselves with Russian, for ex-nmple, before they may venture to pro-nounce the name of a Russian diplomat orIstudy Chinese in order to be ina positionto mention casually some Chinese propername brought into prominence by to-day's

news. Itis enough, as a general rule, togive to the odd combination of sounds pre-sented" to us in dispatches from Janan,Bulgaria, the Transvaal or Venezuela suchutterances as the laws of our own lan-guage prescribe. Hit or miss, life is tooshort to master the orthoepy of everytongue, and we must be content to dothe best we tan in our own way. Espe-cially is this the case with proper namesthat have long had a place in the Englishlanguage and have had a recognized Eng-lish pronunciation. Itis m^re affectationto convert Paris intoParee, or ape the Ger-man pronunciation of the name of Wag-ner, the well-known musician and com-poser, by giving a v twist to the first letter.Paris is Paris and Wagner is Wagner, thenames being common and well under-stood. A person in the first enthusiasmof his acquaintance with a foreign lan-guage may be pardoned for airing his su-perior knowledge when uncommon namesnot .adopted in common English speechare in question, but he becomes ridiculouswhen he undertakes to impart a foreignaccent to familiar names. There is a storyof a New York clerk named Gordon, who,after a month's stay in France, became"Gor-r-rdong" and refused to answer toany other appellation. His case was anextreme one, peruaps, but it illustrates thevice (too common) of using with excessiveostentation foreign instead of the moreuseful and intelligible English pronuncia-tions.

With respect to Latin and Greek propernames a stricter rule may, perhaps, be con-ceded to apply. These languages are theimplements of culture. The rules of pro-nunciation applicable to words transferredfrom them into English are simple andfew, and well within the reach of everyone who pretends to a classical education.A false accent is,accordingly, nnpardon-able, and among classic scholars correct-ness of accent is the accepted test of soundand thorough training. But in the soundsgiven to particular letters there is roomfor the manifestation of vanity or im-mature judgment. Cicero's name duringthe lifetime of the great Roman oratorwas undoubtedly pronounced Kikero,and Ctesar was Kaisar. Other con-sonants and all the vowels werein classical Latin pronounced in a waywhich our English letters once followed,but from which they have now for the mostpart departed. At college itis well tolearnwhat is thought to have been the trueLatin pronunciation. AllKnowledge isuse-ful. But itis unnecessary inquoting Latinafter leaving college to aim at a cainfulConsistency. In respect, indeed, to nameslike Cicero and Caesar, which have beendomesticated, so to speak, in the Englishlanguage, the/usual rule applies. They areto be pronounced like English words, onlytaking care to get the accent on the rightByilable. The English-speaking Americanpeople accept, ir fact, the common-senserule that pure English is always preferableto a potpnilrriof German, Latin and otherpronunciations.

—Baltimore Sun.

HAPPINESS.Idid not dream,Icould not know,

That life contained such bliss;Tliat from a. tiny germ could grow

Such happiness aa this.

Atlast Iread the lesson taughtInJoy's mys erious eyes

As in some sweet wild creature's, caughtAnd brought me as a prize.

And this is life—that irksome giftIlonged to put away

—The headlong force that strong and swift

Throbs In my veins to-day !Thorp Is ahost ef secret signs

And symphonies haif sung,As ifIread between the linet -Id some forgotten tongue.

And throueh itall a meaning runsIsurely used to know;Imust have lived and felt itonce

lone centuries ago.

A sweet new message lurks betweenThe pulsing waves of light;Dear God, tillnow Ihave not seen

Thy lovelyworld aright.—

ScrtbDer**.

Itis one of life's little ironies that theBritish rulers of India won't be able to sellopium to the Chinese much longer, inspiteof a war to open the Celestial ports to itssale. The Chinese are raising itfor them-selves better and cheaper.

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 1896.26

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Ff«ll|spKl VILLE DE PARIS.

NEW TO-DAY.

Special Saving Sale.

PUDDING DISHES—

HeavilyNickel-Plated on hard metal, withremovable porcelain-lined dish forserving direct fromthe oven; alsouseful for baking many otherthings. The regular prices are$1 50 and $2. On Monday, Tuesdayand Wednesday ONLY we willsell the 3-pint size at $1 and the4-pint at $1 40.THATBIG CHINA STORE

A Quarter ofa Block Below Shreve's.WANQENMEIM,3TERNHEin& CO.,

528 and 530 Market St.,27 and 29 Sutter St.,

BELOW MONTGOMERY.