the rj insider's guide to world jewish travel - spring 2013

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A Union for Reform Judaism (URJ) Publication ReformJudaismmag.org Spring 2013/5773 $ 5 . 0 0

What To See MOSCOWBUDAPEST

What To KnowSINGAPORE

JOHANNESBURG

What To DoSAN JUAN

RIO DE JANEIRO

What I Discovered ST. PETERSBURG

VIENNA

WillkommenWelcome

RJ INSIDERS JEWISH

WORLD TRAVELWORLD TRAVELGU I D E

How to make friends with Reform Jews in 43 countries * Where to go, what to see, how to connect.

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smaller centers. In 2010, 600 people joined me in grappling with Jewish texts, history, and contemporary life at a Lim-mud Jewish study weekend in Warsaw. Every summer a nine-day Jewish culture festival in Krakow attracts hundreds of people worldwide. Warsaws popular Yiddish theater features non-Jewish actors. And the Museum of the History of Polish Jewssupported by the Warsaw municipality and the Polish governmentwill open in April 2013.

In the early 1990s, when only one Progressive congregation existed in the entire Soviet Union and Russian-speak-ing Jews began emigrating West en masse, I was convinced: This is the end of Eastern European Jewry.

I was wrong. Today, there are hun-dreds of congregations throughout the FSU. In our Movement, six energetic Progressive rabbis in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Minsk, Kiev, and Simferopol (Crimea), together with a few dozen graduates of the Movements Machon para-rabbinic program as well as Machon-trained community workers and leaders, serve 40 communities nation-wide. Moreover, each year some 1,000 Russian Jews attend our adult, family, and youth camps, learning about Juda-ism for the first time in their lives.

A similar Jewish renaissance is under-way in the Czech Republic, spearheaded by Beit Simha, the liberal Jewish commu-nity in Prague. Local teachers as well as visiting rabbis and lecturers are teaching courses in Judaism, history, and Hebrew to groups of 3050 Jews. Annual confer-ences attract participants of all ages.

The resurgence of Jewish life in Germany has been miraculous.

In May 1945, the German Jewish com-munity was totally devastated. Almost half the population had emigrated before the

Travel abroad and youll witness, as I have, the wonders of Jewish rebirth and resilience in places where Judaism

was once on the edge of extinc-tionand now is on the ascent!

When I visited Poland in 1990 after the fall of the Communist regime, a handful of elderly Jews were strug-gling to survive in one functioning Warsaw synagogue. Today Polands Jewish community numbers approxi-mately 30,000including enthusias-tic participants of the Progressive communities in Warsaw, Krakow, and

By Paul Liptz

Defying Extinction

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE TOWORLD JEWISH TRAVEL

Welcome to the 1st RJ Insiders Guide to

World Jewish Travel

In partnership with the World Union for Progressive Judaism, we are pleased to offer you this inaugural guide, which reveals fascinating differences and similarities in Reform communities throughout the globe and gives you the inside track on connecting up with your Jewish family worldwide.

Note: Our Summer 2013 edition will feature the 3rd RJ Insiders Guide to Israel Travel in collaboration with the Israel Ministry of Tourism and the Asso-ciation of Reform Zionists of America.

Happy travels. The EditorsPaul Liptz, a social historian, is director of Education at the WUPJs Anita Saltz International Education Center, Jerusalem.


Second World War, and most of those who remained were killed. Over the decades, immigrants began arriving, mainly from other parts of Europe and Israel, and a new Jewish community slowly emerged.

Today, some 130,000 Jews live in Germany, a nation with the fastest Jewish growth rate in the world. The German government provides benefits specifically to Jewish immigrants and has helped fund the building of the Jewish Museum and the Holocaust Memorial in Berlin.

With some 24 congregations, the Pro-gressive Movement is growing steadily, bolstered by the German government, which recognizes and provides it with financial assistance. A major milestone was reached in 2006, when the Progres-sive Movements Abraham Geiger College of Judaism, which trains rabbinic and cantorial students to serve in Germany and neighboring countries, ordained its inaugural three rabbisthe first ordainees in the nation since the Second World War.

Every time I travel abroad, my emo-tional involvement and commitment to our brethren in these and other emerging communities increases. I am convinced it will for you, too.

To be part of the unfolding, mirac ulous journey of the Jewish people, read on.

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In AcknowledgementThe Reform Judaism magazine editors express their gratitude to the following donors, whose generous contributions made this RJ Insiders Guide to World Jew-ish Travel possible: Jean and Jay Abarbanel, Steve and Ina Bauman, Stephen K. Breslauer, James and Linda Cherney, Sue and James Klau, The Golomb Family, Anne Molloy and Henry Posner III, Rosalyn G. Rosenthal, Rabbi Barton A. and Jane Shallat, Jerry Tanen-baum, and Dolores K. Wilkenfeld.

To explore how you might con-tribute to a future Insiders Guide, please contact the editorsAron Hirt-Manheimer, editor, or Joy Weinberg, managing editorat [email protected].


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By Gail Glezerman Sherman

ST PETERSBURG: Treated Like a Queen

Travel is my passion. I find nothing more exhilarating than visiting new placesbut not for the reasons you may expect. Yes, I enjoy

visiting historical sites, seeing magnifi-cent art and architecture, and sampling delicious indigenous food. But my real joy comes from meeting people, especially when they are Jewish. I love to learn what its like to live as a Jew in another countrywhat is similar to the U.S. and what is different. Usually the similarities fascinate me most.

Ive conversed with party-goers at a Sephardic bar mitzvahon a Thursday eveningin Nice, France (except for the language, the party was like all the ones Ive attended in America); learned about French Jewish Pesach traditions while buying Passover pastries at a kosher bakery in Paris; and conversed with a Jewish glass blower in Venice about a Murano glass kiddush cup that seemed like a major extravagancebut which Ive regretted not buying ever since. And, this past summer, my hus-band Jay and I experienced the most personal Jewish encounter of allattending Shabbat services as the guests of honor at Shaarei Shalom, the Pro-

learned, was the ship that fired the shot that started the 1917 Bolshevik Revo-lution, and is now a museum). The taxi driver pointed and sped away. Without any signage, we had no idea what we were looking for. A man who seemed to be a security guard looked at the addressin Russianand led us to a dismal yard surrounded by a chain link fence. This could not be right.

Retracing our steps back to the Cruiser Aurora, I called the temple, only to reach a Russian-speaking woman who didnt understand me and hung up. Now it was raining hard, the wind upending our umbrella. Royalty, hmmm. I fumbled for the rabbis cell phone number, and to my relief she answered. Her secretary would soon meet us outside the building. At last, we saw someone gesturing broadly, Come in, come in. We had arrived at Shaarei Shalom.

Rabbi Rubenstein, an elegant woman in her mid-50s, greeted us warmly. She immediately offered us tea and sweets, and then (as she was in the midst of a counseling session) put us in the hands of one of her English-speaking mem-bers: Alla, a beautiful young woman with an adorable two-year-old daughter.

Alla showed us around the first floor facilities: sanctuarya very modern space reminiscent of American syna-goguesoffices, and a small social hall (religious school classrooms occupy the upstairs space). She apologized in advance for the small turnout expected at servicesabout 20 of 100 membersbecause of the rain and many members away on summer vacations.

When Rabbi Rubenstein rejoined us, she told us her life storythe twists and turns of how a young Jew who grew up without an understanding of Judaism in

Gail Glezerman Sherman is a member of Temple Beth Torah, Ventura, California.

gressive (Reform) synagogue in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Before the trip, I learned of and reached out to Rabbi Gary Bretton-Granatoor, vice president for philan-thropy at the World Union for Progres-sive Judaism. He excitedly explained that St. Petersburg was one of only four

cities in all of Russiathe others being Mos-cow, Minsk and Kievthat had a Progressive synagogue. Since our time in St. Petersburg included a Friday night, he suggested we attend

Shabbat services and put me in touch with Rabbi Helena Rubensteinwho, he said, along with her congre-gation, will treat you like a queen!

Rabbi Rubenstein wrote, in good English, that shed be delighted to have us. She provided me with the address and directionsand her cell phone number.

After our first day of exploring the city, I was still feeling jet lagged from the 11-hour time difference and regretting my commitment to attend services. Plus it was cold and rainy; a bowl of hot borscht and an early evening sounded very appealing.

But the rabbi was expecting us, so we hailed a taxi to what turned out to be a Soviet-era office building, across from the Cruiser Aurora (which, we later

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

RABBI HELENA RUBENSTEIN (R.) AND I AT THE

ENTRANCE TO SHAAREI SHALOMS SANCTUARY.

Greetings from The State Hermitage Museum


1960s and 70s Moscowa time when the Soviets didnt permit religious practicebecame a Progressive rabbi. Today she is one of only six native Russian-speaking Progressive rabbis serving in the FSU.

As predicted, the service attracted about 20 peoplemostly young, with children, but also a few seniors. We were given a siddur in English and Hebrew, and the rabbi made sure we sat near Alla for the purpose of translation. Now I under-stood what Rabbi Bretton-Granatoor meant about being treated like royalty.

First, I was asked to come up to the bimah and light the Shabbat candles. I began singing what I assumed was the universal melody for the candle-lighting blessingthe one melody Id heard in every synagogue Id ever attendedbut when the rabbi and congregation joined in, it was a completely different minor-keyed tune! It seemed best to mouth the brachah silently. And when it was time for Aleinu, Rabbi Rubenstein asked Jay and me to come to the bimah to open the ark.

Notably, the order of the service was very familiarmuch like what we do at Temple Beth Torah in Ventura, Cali-fornia. The prayers were the same. When I heard familiar melodies, like Lcha Dodi, I joined right in. The Shma was chanted with a different melody, which surprised me tooof all our prayers, didnt this one have a universal tune?

During the service, to keep us feeling included, the rabbi frequently gave expla-nations and page numbers in English. And, during the sermonwhich of course was in Russianthe rabbi had arranged for another congregant, a young woman named Katya who teaches Eng-lish for a living, to sit next to me and translate. It was a little like the childhood game of telephone. Whispering into my ear so softly as to not disturb others, and in heavily accented English, Katya would say something that I could hardly comprehend, and I would whisper some-thing to Jay that made even less sense. Despite my lack of comprehension, I felt greatly appreciative of the special atten-tion. And it struck me: The experience we were having right now in St. Peters-burg was being repeated at Progressive/Reform synagogues all over the world.

Youre Never Alone When You Say Youre a Jew

by Gary Bretton-Granatoor

I n 43 countries around the world, there are people like you and me who strive to create warm, welcoming, egalitarian, pluralistic Jewish communities. Rabbi Larry Milders popular NFTY song, Wherever You Go, beauti-fully expresses this truth:

Wherever you go, theres always someone Jewish

Youre never alone when you say youre a Jew

So when youre not home and youre somewhere kind of newish

The odds are dont look far, cause theyre Jewish too.

In North America we are called Reform. In other parts of the world, we are known as Progressive or Lib-eral (in most of Europe, if you ask for a Reform congregation, youll be directed to a Protestant church). But we are all one family.

How do you find your larger Pro-gressive/Reform/Liberal family when travelling outside of North America? The process is different than what you find in North America, where syna-gogues generally have an open-door policy. Elsewhere, there is a pervasive security consciousness. Synagogues do not publish their street addresses, return phone calls or emails, or openly declare their presence. A random visitor, even one claiming affiliation with a Reform synagogue in the U.S. or Canada, is likely to be turned away

if visiting unannounced.The best way to connect is to have

the World Union for Progressive Judaism (WUPJ), the institution that serves, nurtures, and supports 1,700+ Reform/Progressive/ Liberal Jewish congregations worldwide, make the con-nection for you.

Several weeks in advance of

your vacation, go to the World Union for Progressive Judaism website, wupj.org. On the main page, use the dialogue box to search for WUPJ con-gregations by country and then city. Once you verify the presence of a congregation in the area you plan to visit, email or call me, Rabbi Gary Bretton-Granatoor ([email protected] or 2124526531), at the WUPJs New York office. Provide your travel dates, where you plan to stay, when you would like to visit the congregation, the number of people in your party, and a way to contact you once you are there (to make sure you are advised of any last minute changes in the syna-gogues plans). If given sufficient time, we can arrange a personal visit.

Connecting with your cousins is a great way to experience a country and a Jewish community. Youll get insight into the challenges and the tri-umphs of living as a Jew in that placeand, most of all, you will see that we are all a part of one extended family. Wherever you go, theres always someone Jewish. Youre never alone when you say youre a Jew.

Rabbi Gary Bretton-Granatoor is the Vice PresidentPhilanthropy at the World Union for Progressive Judaism.

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high cost of city living, these three young people reside in outlying areas and travel long distances to attend services every Friday night. And if they took time off from work to attend services they would risk losing their jobs, because religious practice is not a protected right in Russia.

It was time to leave, and Vladimir kindly offered to drive us back to the hotel. We exchanged full names with congregants so we could become Face-book friends and keep in touch.

Even better, Katya asked if we had any free time when she could take us around St. Petersburgof course!

That Monday, Katya met us at our hotel. We strolled several miles to the park behind the Yusopov Palace, where Grigory Rasputin, who had spell-bound Empress Alexandra, was murdered by his enemies. The weather had turned warm and sunnyunusual in St. Peters-burg, which gets about 50 sunny days a yearand the park was filled with peo-ple. Katya told us she was in the process of converting to Judaism, and feels con-

What a spiri-tual uplift, to be connected to a global community of fellow Jews.

As with any Jewish gathering, food has to be part. Indeed, for a small synagogue, the oneg Shabbat at Shaarei Shalom was very elaborate. The rabbis secretary is an incredible baker, and challah is her specialty. It was sweet, cake-like, filled with either raisins or currantsand surely the most delicious Ive ever eaten. And, to our delight, she had made two extra loaves for us to take back to our hotel!

We chatted more with Katya and another young married couple, Anastasia and Vladimir. All three of them, it turns out, are Jews by choice, and all believe they have some Jewish ancestry. None are from RussiaKatya hails from Lat-via and Anastasia and Vladimir from Lithuania. All are trying to obtain pass-ports from their ancestral countries to

travel outside of Russiaevidently, obtaining a visa to travel abroad is exceedingly difficult for citizens who hold

just a Russian passport.Being Jewish in Russia is still a diffi-

cult choice, and being a Progressive Jew even more so. Although the fall of the Soviet Union freed its citizens to practice religion, the vast majority are Russian Orthodox. Among Jews, most are Ortho-dox, and Chabad has a sizeable presence. Katya, Anastasia, and Vladimir have cho-sen the Progressive Movement for the same reasons I appreciate being a Reform Jewindividual religious autonomy and gender equality.

But in the U.S. its easy for me to be a Reform JewI live two miles from my congregation, and I have the legal right to take time off from work to celebrate the High Holy Days. In Russia, because of the

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Since returning home, I have heard from both Katya and Anastasia on Facebook, and from Shaarei Shalom by email, further cementing our bond with new friends in St. Petersburg. Im thrilled to have made the connection.

My experience in St. Petersburg deep-ened my passion for travel and proved yet again that the wonder of going places is not about sites or restaurants or souve-nirsits about people. It was thrilling to participate in Shabbat services in St. Petersburgwhere, just 20 years ago, residents couldnt acknowledge their Judaism. I am now set on seeking out Progressive Judaism synagogues in other parts of the world. Meeting, praying, and socializing with Jews who share my reli-gious perspectives and passions trans-forms a trip from a memorable vacation to an enduring experience of Jewish connectedness and spiritual renewal.

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I believe that we are each born with a higher purpose in life. Some discover their calling early; others take more time, until they hear that still, small voice.While I thought I had an awareness

of my purpose, a new one was revealed to me this past summer when my two daughters, Alexis, 28, and Shaina, 25, and I visited Vienna, the city where my father/their grandfather, of blessed memo-ry, was born and raised.

In advance of the trip, I asked Jewish Vienna Now (wien.info/en/vienna-for/ jewish-vienna) for help in finding a bilingual guide to lead us on a tour of the places where my father had lived, and the cem-etery where my grandfather and both sets of great grand-parents were buried. They put me in touch with Barbara Timmerman of Vien-na Walks tours (viennawalks.com), which specializes in Jewish tours.

Prior to our arrival, Barbara located all my dads addresses, from his birthplace

In late July, Alexis, Shaina, and I arrived in Vienna. The next morning, Barbara met us in our hotel lobby. We hopped into her car and drove to the citys massive Central Cemetery (Zentrafriedhof). More than 3 million people have been buried in its different sections (Jewish, Christian, Protestant, Russian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Muslim) since 1874, and it is still in use.

First, Barbara guided us to my great grandfathers grave. Because of the repair work, I was happy to see it was the best looking grave in the row! It was also an eerie feeling to later stand at my grandfa-thers gravethe very spot where I knew my dad as well as his mother, brother, and sister had once stood. The realization that we had traveled across the world to honor our ancestor on the 100th anniver-sary of his death added an aura of sanctity to the moment.

Standing at the graves of my great grandfathers, Shaina told me, I under-stand that I am related to the bodies beneath the earth and tombstones, that I am alive because of them. I feel satisfied, and fulfilled, in pinpointing my lineage.

After our cemetery visit, Barbara led us to the buildings where my father had lived. Some were prewar; others had been destroyed in the war and rebuilt in the 50s and 60s. In one instance, when the original edifice was not there, we entered a neighboring building that was architecturally similar to the one in which he had lived, taking in the beautiful craftsmanship of the woodwork around the doors and the detailed plasterwork on the walls and above each entrance.

Then we made our way to the City Temple (Stattemple), where my father had become a bar mitzvah in 1913, the year following his fathers death. Built in

to his last-known Vienna residence. Also, knowing that many graves in the older sections of the Central Cemetery of Vien-na are in ill repair and can be a major disappointment to family visitors, she traveled out to the cemetery in advance to

ascertain the status of the graves. Indeed, my great grandfathers grave had been knocked over and complete-ly covered by brush. Through the groundskeeper, she obtained a quote for its repair, which I authorized before our journey.

I had known for a long time that my paternal grand-mother had died in Treblinka in 1942

and my fathers broth-er had per-ished in Ausch-

witz that same year. But thanks to Barbara, I also learned how my paternal grandfather dieda question Id pondered throughout adulthood. She discovered an article in an archived newspaper from 1912 and translated it for me. My grandfather had suffered from incurable stomach ulcers. At the age of 49, unable to endure the pain and support his family, he took his own life.

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

By Cindy R. Kandel

VIENNA: Searching for Roots, Finding My Mission

Cindy R. Kandel is an active congregant and bnai mitzvah instructor at Temple Israel in West Bloomfield, Michigan.

INTERIOR OF THE CITY TEMPLE,

WHERE MY FATHER BECAME

A BAR MITZVAH IN 1913. INSET

(FROM L. TO R.): MY DAUGHTERS

ALEXIS AND SHAINA, TOUR

GUIDE BARBARA, AND ME

STANDING OUTSIDE THE TEMPLE.

Greetings from Maria Theresa Square


1826, it was the only synagogue in Vien-na to survive the war, though it had been desecrated by the Nazis. After the war, with funding from the city of Vienna, the building was restored to its original beauty. Now it is open for twice daily tours on Mondays through Thursdaysbut security is tight. We had to enter one at a time, present our passports to the guard, answer his questions, then pass through both a metal detector and bullet-proof glass sliding doors.

At last, we entered the sanctuary. It was sublime. The round space, accentu-ated by a repeating circular motif deco-rated in blues, golds, and dark wood-work, enveloped me. Above the golden ark stood two golden tablets inscribed with the Ten Commandments, and the soft blue ceiling was covered with hun-dreds of small gold Stars of David that reminded me of Gods promise to Abra-ham. Its amazing, Alexis told me, to sit inside the same synagogue that my grandfather attended on Shabbat 100 years ago. Even though I never met him, by being here, I feel connected to him.

The guide, a petite, well-spoken Viennese woman, narrated a history of the synagogue, Vienna, and the citys Jews. Security at the City Temple has been tight, we learned, ever since a 1982 terrorist attack on the building.

As we were about to leave, at my daughters urging, I asked our guide, Do records exist of those who celebrated their bar mitzvahs in the synagogue?

Why do you want to know? she queried.

My dad had his bar mitzvah here, I explained.

You must visit the archive room, she said. Wait here.

She spoke to the guards, and soon we were ushered through a second set of bulletproof glass doors, up a flight of stairs, and into the archive rooma 10'x10' space with floor-to-ceiling shelves containing the birth, marriage, and death records of every Jew born in Vienna from 1826 through 1938.

The archives historian, Wolf-Erich Eckstein, asked me for my fathers name and birth date. After a few quick clicks on his keyboard, he pulled one of the ledgers off a shelf and carefully flipped through the pages untilthere it was, my

fathers name, along with his birth date, information about his parents and grand-parents, the delivering doctors name, and the date of my fathers circumci-sionall written in beautiful script and filling nine columns across two pages. I was awestruck, speechless, and teary eyed. This, too, felt like sacred space.

Wanting to worship with a community of Jews in this city of my family history, I decided to attend Shabbat services at Viennas only Progressive congregation, Or Chadash. I also felt the need to thank God for this incredible journey I was taking with my daughters.

It took us a while to locate the build-ing. When we finally reached the right street, we saw nothing resembling a syn-agogue. There was also no signage on any of the doors, all of which looked indistinguishable from one another. But then I noticed a man blocking the entry-way to one of the buildings. He wore street clothes, but his bearing said secu-rity guard to me. As we approached, I looked at him and inquired, Or Chadash? He smiled, I wished him Shabbat Shalom, he returned the greet-ingand then opened the door.

The sanctuary was a simple room filled with about 40 green, blue, and white plastic chairs split by a center aisle, and a dark wood ark at the far end of the room. Though sparse, the space was lovely and warm. After all Id experi-enced in Vienna, it felt good to cradle a siddur (prayer book) in my hands. I lis-tened to familiar tunes and prayers and tried to join in, but my voice was muted by emotion. I kept thinking of my father and all that his family had endured during their lifetimes. I wondered if Dad some-how knew that his daughter and grand-daughters were in the city where he came of age as a Jew on the 100-year anniver-sary of his fathers death. My feelings were so apparent, when the gentleman running the service paused for people to

mention names for Kaddish, he looked directly at me first, naturally assuming that I had a name to share. I just smiled appreciatively and shook my head.

At my side, Alexis was feeling ecstatic. Being in Vienna, singing the same songs, reciting the same prayers, I realized: We are one! We are Jews, no matter the sect, where we are from, or the size of the congregation. Its so good to know that wherever I travel I can walk into a synagogue and feel at home! This is why my connection to Judaism is strong. Even though I live in Las Vegas, hundreds of miles away from the family, I am always connected to a united com-munity and family, the Jewish people.

It was after services, at the Kiddush, that my new life purpose revealed itself. Speaking with Giuliana Schnitzler, the congregations vice president, I learned that the government had just passed a law awarding the Orthodox Jewish com-munity sole power to determine which synagogues are legitimate and therefore eligible for government assistance. Since the Orthodox community does not recognize the Progressive Jewish Move-ment, Giuliana explained, Or Chadash was at risk of having to close.

As a Jew, an American, and the child of a Holocaust survivor, I found it unconscionable that in 2012 Vienna, Jews were still at risk of not being able to pray as they choose to. Leaving the synagogue that evening, I vowed to join the struggle to save Or Chadash. So many people had been silent as Jewish freedoms were trampled in Europe, as my grandmother and uncle died in the Holocaust. I would not be silent now.

Or Chadash had made a strong ally.

Since coming home, I have become an advocate for Or Chadashs legitimacy in Vienna. Ive written to the Federal Minister for Education, Arts, and Cul-ture in Vienna and to the U.S. ambassa-dor to Austria. I stay abreast of develop-ments and inform my rabbis, who are now determined to help, too.

I went to Vienna in search of my ancestors and came away with a sacred mission.

Share This GuideThe full RJ Insiders Guide to Jewish

World Travel is available as a digital edi-tion for computer, iPad, and smartphone readers. Go to reformjudaismmag.org.

reform judaism 1 0 spring 2013

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Rabbi Robert Jacobs serves as rabbi of Bet David Congregation in Johannesburg, South Africa

What do tourists find most interest-ing about your country and city?

Most tourists come for the wealth of animal life in national parks and private ani-mal preser-vation game farms dot-ted across South Africa. It is a land of great varia-tion of ter-rain, climate, flora, and fauna; the Western Cape is one of the worlds most diverse plant habitats.

Johannesburg offers many museums and monuments documenting our nation-al story from the Boer Wars (18901910), through Mahatma Ghandis devel-opment of passive resistance, into the Apartheid period and the current demo-cratic society. For example, the Cradle of Humankind exhibits some of the oldest and most extraordinary fossils of human ancestors to be excavated in the Sterkfon-tein and surrounding caves, one hour north of Johannesburgand the excava-tion process is ongoing. The occasional, seasonal tours of the Sterkfontein Caves are fascinating. The Apartheid Museum offers the most complete history of Apartheid. At Constitution Hill, which encompasses Old Fort, Constitutional

Court, Womens Jail, and Awaiting Trial Block Prison, highlights not to be missed are staircases from that dreaded prison and a fine collection of South African art and beaded work in the lobby. For a great day trip, visit a sanctuary to see ele-

phants, cheetahs, or other rare or endangered species.

What Jew-ish sites are most worth visiting?

Temple Israel in Hillbrow (1936), designed by the studio of the Jew-

ish architect Hermann Kallenbach, is one of many splendid art Deco struc-tures found throughout the older areas of Johannesburg. Kallenbachs home on the Linksfield Ridge also served as Ghandis home during an early stay in Johannesburg.

There are three Progressive congre-gations in the cityBet David, Beit Emanuel, and Temple Israel. Ours, Bet David, offers a garden setting and a warm English-speaking congregation graced by a splendid choir. In addition, if your travels take you to the adminis-trative capital of Pretoria (Tswhane), you can visit Bet Menorah; and Pro-gressive synagogues are also to be found in Cape Town, Green Point, Wynberg, West Coast/Milnerton, Dur-ban, East London, and Port Elisabeth.

What are the culinary delights?You name it; you can find it on the

menu! As South Africans especially enjoy meat dishes, exceptional and rea-sonable steak houses exist in many locales. Also prominent are spicier cur-ries and a variety of pan-African dishes. Several certified kosher restaurants offer varied menus. Boboties (curried meat casseroles) as well as typical East Euro-pean dairy dishes are frequently found along with butternut soup and beautiful-ly presented salads. Produce is varied, local, and splendid!

What are your top Johannesburg travel tips?

Dress is almost universally informal. Dont be put off by the too frequent reports of violence, yet be cautious about walking in isolated areas. Hotels and tours provide excellent guidance about avoiding problems, safe storage of valuables (dont leave valuables unattended or wear flashy, expensive jewelry), and general conduct issues that might differ in South Africa. Ser-vice in hotels and restaurants is incon-sistent, but well given when requested politely; and questioning receives a better response than demanding or criticism. Tipping for service often starts at 10% of a bill.

South Africa is a right-hand drive country, and not for the timid; although most roads are excellent, I would not necessarily say the same of the drivers! Public transit in town is not very usable, although the Gautrain (high speed train) to and from the airport is brilliant. Contacting the Progressive Jewish community in advance offers the opportunity to experience Jewish life in a personal way.

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

JOHANNESBURG: Culture & Community

BET DAVID MEMBER KAREN TURIS LEADS A YOGA CLASS FOR

ORPHANS IN THE SYNAGOGUE GARDENS ON MANDELA DAY.

Interview with Robert Jacobs

Greetings from a springbok and blessboks in Lion Park


What is the history of Johannes-burgs Jewish community?

Jewish life is a more than a century old. The office of Chief Rabbi has exist-ed for some 75 years. Most Jews trace their origins to Lithuania: The discovery of gold here in the 19th century con-vinced many of their ancestors to escape Lithuanias poverty, wars, and changing regimessuch as the in aftermath of Tsar Alexander IIs assassination in 1881by immigrating to South Africa in hopes of a better life. Early arrivals established shops or became Smous (peddlers) until settling down in towns and villages throughout the country.

Now 80 years old, Progressive Juda-ism has a credible record here. It reached a seeming high point about mid-way along that timeline; the period since the violent Soweto student uprising in 1976 has seen a decline in both the overall number of Jews (from an estimated 120,000 to 70,000 today) and Progressive Jews (from an estimated 11,000 to 6,000 today). The vast majority of Jews here affiliate with Orthodoxy, and theres been an increase in both right-wing, Orthodox groups and in disaffiliated Jews.

What is your worship like at Bet David Congregation?

Our worship is formal and tradition-al; however, dress is informal, as is the congregations attitude to such decorum issues as on-time arrival and staying in place during the duration of the service. All South African Union for Progressive Judaism congregations use Mishkan Tfilah World Union Edition. The local musical tradition is choral, with profes-sional quartets at Beit Emanuel and Bet David for formal services. A Bet David hallmark is our mixed voice choir sing-ing a cappella, which is controversial since the local Orthodox community has imposed a ban on women singing in public (which we are fighting). At Yom Hashoah and Yom HaAtzmaut programs for the entire Jewish community, women are no longer allowed to raise their voices in song. But at Bet David, our tradition of mixed choir, featuring a splendid soprano as lead singer, continues.

Bet David is known for its special blessings, including parents blessing for children prior to Kiddush, commu-

nal prayers concluding with a prayer for pets, and end-of-calendar month birthday blessings. Here our blessed bread is known as kitke, apparently a Polish term referring to ornate plaster work, which is also braided and looks like a challah.

Are services in English?South Africa is a multi-lingual coun-

try, with 11 official languagesAfri-kaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa, and Zulu. Zulu is the most com-mon home language and English the language of commerce. Since the major-ity of congregants speak English (a minority are first-language speakers of Afrikaans, a local version of Flemish-Dutch), services mix Hebrew and Eng-lish, with sermons in English.

What are your congregants religious backgrounds?

We serve three distinctive groups: Jews whose parents or grandparents were among the early proponents of Progres-sive Judaism, Jews raised in Orthodoxy, and those who have chosen Judaismmany of whom are well integrated into the congregational leadership. South Africas transformation from a rigidly racially divided society is truly lived out through our congregational life. Especial-ly since 1994South Africas first dem-ocratic election, which brought Nelson Mandela into the presidencythe num-ber of Jews-by-choice from multiple eth-nicitiesamong them Afrikaaners, Indi-ans, and descendants of black Yemenite Jewshas expanded, enriching the com-munity. As another example, South Africa has offered marriage under Civil Union since late 2006, and the South African Union for Progressive Judaism has accepted same-sex marriage under a chuppah since May 2007; we may be the only mainstream religious group in South Africa to do so. While the first aufruf for two grooms created a stir, the congregation has not looked back.

Do you have unique celebrations?Our Shavuot morning cheesecake

contestmany of the cheesecakes fla-voured with passion fruit or other tropical fruitsattracts lots of tasters. We also

have special community days, such as Mandela Daynear the first presidents birthdaywhen we welcome 100+ orphans from Alexander for fun and food.

As our community does not have access to the mikveh at Orthodox synagogues, new Jews-by-choice are immersed in a suitable, private swimming pool.

How has South African history influenced Jewish life in Johannesburg?

Much of the early history of Progres-sive Judaism is linked with the years of Apartheid. Jews were over-represented in the anti-Apartheid struggle, but also had members of the National Party that perpetuated Apartheid. For Bet David Congregation, a diverse suburban com-munity, the crisis year was 1987, when Alexander Townshipjust kilometers awayfaced school closings as mem-bers of the black community engaged in struggle against the Apartheid regime. In response, a few Sisterhood women started an emergency 12th-grade school, offering preparation for the countrys matric exams (a prerequisite before students can pursue higher education). Twenty-six years later, Mitzvah School, on the Bet David campus, has produced hundreds of graduates, some of whom have become communtiy leaderschurchmen, physicians, bank managers, etc.in the renewed South Africa. Now-adays Bet Davids Kehillah (formerly Sisterhood) also supplies foodstuffs for a primary school, an after-school haven, an orphanage, and a shelter for street orphans. Fulfilling the needs of the impoverished is a major component of our work.

In todays diverse South Africa, where about 250 separate religious groups are recognized, religion is primarily a private matter. The Orthodox-dominated Jewish community attempts to fence off Jews from Progressive Judaism in a way that at times borders upon hostility. Mean-while, the non-Jewish community sees all of the Jewish community as one, and appreciates the Jews strong contribu-tions to South African politics, arts, busi-ness, and academia. For Jews, being pub-licly proud of ones Jewishness remains a respected tradition.


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The following is a compilation of the nations with Reform congregations, from the country with the largest total Jewish population (Israel) to the smallest (El Salvador). All of these population figures are estimates (see the Notes on the next page for sources). Outside North America the name Reform is used less frequently, so the WUPJ has provided each communitys preferred self-description (Reform, Progressive, Liberal, Modern).

1 IsraelJewish Pop.: 5,413,800Congregations: 35Locations: VariousDescription: Reform/Progressive

2 United StatesJewish Pop.: 5,275,000Congregations: 839Locations: VariousDescription: Reform

3 FranceJewish Pop.: 483,500Congregations: 13Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

4 CanadaJewish Pop.: 375,000Congregations: 25Locations: VariousDescription: Reform

5 United KingdomJewish Pop.: 292,000Congregations: 82Locations: VariousDescription: Reform/Progressive/Liberal

6 RussiaJewish Pop.: 205,000Congregations: 21Locations: VariousDescription: Modern

7 ArgentinaJewish Pop.: 182,300Congregations: 3Locations: Buenos Aires,

Capital FederalDescription: Progressive

8 GermanyJewish Pop.: 119,000Congregations: 24

Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

9 AustraliaJewish Pop.: 107,500Congregations: 15Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

10 BrazilJewish Pop.: 95,600Congregations: 7Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

11 UkraineJewish Pop.: 71,500Congregations: 27Locations: VariousDescription: Modern/Progressive

12 South AfricaJewish Pop.: 70,800Congregations: 10Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

13 HungaryJewish Pop.: 48,600Congregations: 2Locations: BudapestDescription: Progressive

14 BelgiumJewish Pop.: 30,300Congregations: 2Locations: BrusselsDescription: Progressive

15 NetherlandsJewish Pop.: 30,000Congregations: 10Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

16 ItalyJewish Pop.: 28,400Congregations: 3Locations: Florence, MilanDescription: Progressive

17 ChileJewish Pop.: 20,500Congregations: 3Locations: Las Condes, ValparaisoDescription: Progressive

18 SwitzerlandJewish Pop.: 17,600Congregations: 2Locations: Geneva, ZurichDescription: Progressive

PERFORMANCE OF STEP BY STEP - SAUWA SAUWA, A MUSICAL PROJECT SPON-

SORED BY THE LEO BAECK EDUCATION CENTER AND THE EIN MAHEL SCHOOL IN

ISRAEL TO PROMOTE COOPERATION BETWEEN JEWISH AND ARAB YOUTH.

HILLEGUUS TIMNER, THEN CONGREGATION PRESIDENT, LIGHTS THE SHABBAT

CANDLES AT LIBERAAL JOODSE GEMEENTE DEN HAAG IN THE HAGUE.

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

The Top World Nations with Jewish Populations & Their Reform Congregations*


19 BelarusJewish Pop.: 16,500Congregations: 13Locations: VariousDescription: Progressive

20 SwedenJewish Pop.: 15,000Congregations: 1Locations: StockholmDescription: Progressive

21 SpainJewish Pop.: 12,000Congregations: 2Locations: BarcelonaDescription: Progressive

22 AustriaJewish Pop.: 9,000Congregations: 1Locations: ViennaDescription: Progressive

23 PanamaJewish Pop.: 8,000Congregations: 1Locations: Panama CityDescription: Progressive

24 New ZealandJewish Pop.: 7,500Congregations: 3Locations: Dunedin, Epsom (Auckland suburb), WellingtonDescription: Progressive

25 DenmarkJewish Pop.: 6,400Congregations: 1Locations: CopenhagenDescription: Progressive

26 Hong KongJewish Pop.: 5,000Congregations: 1Locations: Hong Kong

Description: Progressive/Reform

27 IndiaJewish Pop.: 5,000Congregations: 1Locations: MumbaiDescription: Reform

28 Czech RepublicJewish Pop.: 3,900Congregations: 1Locations: PragueDescription: Progressive

29 PolandJewish Pop.: 3,200Congregations: 3

Locations: Warsaw, KrakowDescription: Progressive

30 Costa RicaJewish Pop.: 2,500Congregations: 1Locations: SabanaDescription: Progressive

31 ChinaJewish Pop.: 1,500

Congregations: 2Locations: Beijing, ShanghaiDescription: Liberal

32 Puerto RicoJewish Pop.: 1,500Congregations: 1Locations: San JuanDescription: Reform

33 IrelandJewish Pop.: 1,200Congregations: 1Locations: DublinDescription: Progressive

34 LuxembourgJewish Pop.: 600Congregations: 1Locations: StrassenDescription: Progressive

35 CubaJewish Pop.: 500Congregations: 1Locations: HavanaDescription: Progressive

36 Virgin IslandsJewish Pop.: 500Congregations: 1Locations: Amalie (St. Thomas)Description: Reform

37 CuraaoJewish Pop.: 350Congregations: 1Locations: CuracaoDescription: Progressive

38 BahamasJewish Pop.: 300Congregations: 1Locations: NassauDescription: Reform

39 SingaporeJewish Pop.: 300Congregations: 1Locations: SingaporeDescription: Progressive/Reform

40 JamaicaJewish Pop.: 200Congregations: 1Locations: KingstonDescription: Reform

41 SurinameJewish Pop.: 200Congregations: 1Locations: ParamariboDescription: Progressive

42 ArubaJewish Pop.: 200Congregations: 1Locations: OranjestadDescription: Progressive

43 El SalvadorJewish Pop.: 100Congregations: 1Locations: San BenitoDescription: Progressive

A PROCESSION OF 11 TORAH SCROLLS FROM 11 CONGREGATIONS IN CELEBRA-

TION OF THE DEDICATION OF THE WUPJS SANDY BRESLAUER BEIT SIMCHA

CENTER FOR PROGRESSIVE JUDAISM IN MINSK, BELARUS, 2010.

*Notes: All estimated world Jewish population figures are from World Jewish Population 2010-North American Jewish Data Bank by Israel demographer Sergio Della Pergola, except for Hong Kong (Hadassah Magazine, Oct. 2012), Bahamas (Jewish Virtual Library), and Aruba (Joshua Project In-Country Profile). Demographic numbers vary widely depending on how being Jewish is defined (such as if the figures exclude Jews who have not registered with the official community), when the figures were assembled, and other factors. Congregations refers to the number of Reform/Progressive/Liberal communities. Various indicates communities in four or more locations. For more information: wupj.org.


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SINGAPORE: Culture & Community

Rabbi Lennard Thal, senior vice presi-dent emeritus of the Union for Reform Judaism, has served as visiting rabbi of United Hebrew Congregation in Singapore for the past 20 years.

What excites tourists about Singapore?

Singapore prides itself on offering both resi-dents and tourists the highest quality of life. That experi-ence starts even before you arrive. Singapore Airlines is rated number one in the world for first-rate ser-vice, safety, and on-time arrivals; indeed, in my 40+ flights to the city, Ive never landed more than 10 minutes later than scheduled. Waterfalls and fresh orchids beautify Changi Airport, and all passengers have free computer access. This clean, post-modern city (as it is often described) has no homelessness, no unemployment, and practically no street crime, making it a remarkably pleasant, safe place to visit. Because it is a magnetic center for commercesome people refer to the national religion as capitalismSingapore is a locus of business for many North American companies. Per-manent residents cant imagine living anywhere else. Once a taxi driver asked me where I was from, and when I said America, he responded, Whats it like, living in a third-world country?

Be sure to take a walk through the Botanical Gardens, featuring unusual

scroll is the most significant way to honor the memory of a deceased relative. And try to attend services at the Pro-gressive congregation, United Hebrew Congregation of Singapore, where youll be warmly welcomed. Theyre only held once a month on Friday nights, so check the synagogue website (uhcsingapore.org) for the schedule.

What is the local cuisine?Singapores signature cuisine, called

Peranakan, combines Chinese, Malay, and other culinary influences, typically blending ingredients and wok-cooking techniques from the Chinese (who immigrated here before and after World War II) with spices popular in the Malay/Indonesian community (the indigenous population). Peranakans are descendants of marriages between Chinese immi-grants and local Malays.

A good place to sample any Asian cui-sine you wishPeranakan, Malaysian, Chinese, you name itis one of the citys hawker centers, where typically 30 or 40 different vendors offer inexpensive and safe foodhealth guidelines are strictly controlled by the government. Jewish foods of all kinds can be found at the local kosher store, as everyone calls it, near the Maghein Aboth synagogue.

A caveat: As I like to quip, Travel in Singapore can be a broadening experience!

Do you have other insider tips?The landing card distributed on all

flights into Singapore is very clear: Any-one trafficking in drugs is subject to the death penalty. Indeed, while much exag-geration is made of local laws against jaywalking and spitting, the government values protecting the quality of life

orchids and other stunning flora that flourish in Singapores tropical/equatorial climate. Tip: go early in the morning before it gets too hot! On a clear day you can view parts of Malaysia and Indone-sia as well as Singapores harbor from

the 57th floor of the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hoteland chocolate lov-ers can choose from among the 57 sumptuous chocolate varieties at their famed nightly Chocolate Bar! Stop by the Raffles Hotel to enjoy handsome colonial architec-ture, doormen and bellmen in period

costume, and its Long Bar, renowned for the signature drink, the fruity-flavored Singapore Sling.

Singapore is a shoppers paradise, with very high-end shops and antique stores stocking goods from around Asia. A good days activity is walking through Chinatown (see the Buddhas Tooth Relic Temple), Little India (see the col-orful Hindu Temple), and Arab Street (see the Sultan Mosque), all within five to ten minutes drive of one another.

What are the best Jewish sites?Id begin with the two Baghdadi syn-

agoguesMaghein Aboth on Waterloo Street, built in 1873, and Chesed El, on Oxley Rise, built in 1900, each of which has a large walk-in ark containing approximately two dozen Torah scrolls. Many descendants of Iraqi Jews here believe that commissioning a new Torah

MEMBERS OF UNITED HEBREW CONGREGATION OF

SINGAPORE JOIN IN CELEBRATING HANUKKAH, 2010.

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

Interview with Lennard Thal

Greetings from Marina Bay


above individual liberties. As one UHC member explained to me upon my first visit, the difference in the attitude toward law-breaking between Singapore and the U.S. is simply this: In the U.S., crime is against the law; in Singapore, it is simply not permitted.

What synagogue options are there?Right now there are four or five con-

gregations. Two (Maghein Aboth and Chesed El) are led by Chabad rabbis and populated mostly by the descendants of the Baghdadi Jews who developed Jewish communities from Mumbai to Shanghai in the 19th century. The third is an Ashke-nazic Orthodox minyan. The fourth is a primarily French Ashkenazic Orthodox minyan, which began this year; it is too early to tell whether it will be sustainable. Fifthand most important to the Reform communityis the congregation Ive long served as visiting rabbi: the United Hebrew Congregation of Singapore.

What is synagogue life like at UHC?The minhag is best captured by the

oft-repeated refrain by the incumbent president each erev Rosh Hashanah: As our first president once said, Welcome to the Reform-Conservative-Reconstruc-tionist-Liberal-Progressive congregation of Singapore.

Our customs are primarily Reform, but Conservative, Reconstructionist, and other non-Orthodox Jews feel very com-fortable here, in part because the Jewish communal experience is similar to what theyre used to in North America. As the congregation overwhelmingly consists of expats from all over the worldespecially from the U.S. and Canadaand since everyone speaks Englishalthough for some it is their second, third, or, at least in one case, fourth lan-guagewe use Gates of Repentance on the High Holy Days and Mishkan Tfilah for Shabbat and other holidays. For the High Holy Days, American Conference of Cantors President Susan Caro serves as cantor, combining tradi-tional nusach and contemporary melo-dies (Debbie Friedman, Jeff Klepper, etc.). Participating with likeminded folk on these holidays is particularly mean-ingful to the vast majority of congre-gantsbankers, management consul-

tants, hedge fund analysts, lawyers, etc.who are 1012 time zones away from the place they consider home.

By the way, the one piece of liturgy that is a bit unsettling for this community is the prayer for our nation, as some members are permanent residents of Singapore, but the vast majority are not.

How ethnically diverse is UHC?Very. Of the 140 affiliated house-

holds, 1520 members are ethnically Asian. One longstanding practice at our two communal seder celebrations is to ask the Four Questions in as many languages as are native to the various participants. This typically includes Mandarin, Cantonese, Indonesian, Thai, Korean, Japanese, Javanese, as well as Portuguese, Serbian, Russian, Swedish, Afrikaans, and Yiddishgreat fun!

The community is also more stable than in years past. Whereas expats gen-erally used to stay in Singapore for three to five years, nowadays many stay on longer, and three families to whom we had bid farewell have since returned. Life is pretty easy herein addition to the economic opportunities, there are good educational options and quality healthcare. As an active lay leader com-mented to me, Im leaving in two years, and Ive been saying that for the last 15.

Can life also be difficult for the Progressive community, given the governments strong hand?

Twenty years ago, when five founding families created a non-Orthodox alterna-tive for themselves, a big challenge was Singaporean law, which does not include freedom of assembly in the way U.S. law does. The founders had to fly below the radar screen (essentially utilizing word of mouth) until 1995, when the government formally recognized UHC as a society. Since then the community has been able to advertise in various expat periodicals and other venues.

Are there any security concerns?For a few years, because of security

reasons, the American government placed Gurkhas (highly trained Nepalese soldiers who served in the British or Indian army)sporting daggers on their

continued on page 19

ChinaStarting Up in Shanghai:

In Spring 2012, 70 people in Shanghai, China joined together on the second night of Pesach to take part in the citys first-ever liberal seder. Led by Cantor Diego Edel-berg of the United Jewish Congre-gation in Hong Kong and assisted by Hebrew Union College Student Rabbi Megan Brudney, the seder brought together and inspired Progressive Jews in Shanghaiwho have since gone on to form a Liberal Jewish community.

~&~Germany

Synagogue to Storage Facil-ity to Synagogue: For decades, a farmer in the German village of Bodenfelde stored his equip-ment in a small, half-timbered building hardly rec-ognizable for what it wasa 175-year-old synagogue built in 1825. In 1937 the congregation had sold the synagogue to the farmer, and a year later, on Kristallnacht, the farmer defend-ed his purchase against Nazi hooligans who wanted to torch it. Thus the building was spared the fate that befell hundreds of synagogues that night across Germany and Austria.

In 1990, a few hundred Jews from the Former Soviet Union settled in Gttingen, Germany. Its Jewish mayor, Artur Levi, a Holocaust survivor, and local educator Detlev Herbst, an expert on local Jewish history, supported the idea of moving the historic Bodenfelde synagogue to Gottin-gen, whose large synagogue had been destroyed 70 years earlier.

GLOBAL NEWS

continued on p.17

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Erika Siegfried-Tompson is a member of Bet Orim in Budapest and an activist in the Hungarian Reform Movement.

What excites tourists about Budapest?Budapest offers grandiosely beauti-

ful views. From the gentle curve of the Danube River, you see rising hills and lovely islands spanned by great bridges of various styles. The vista is spectacu-

lar at night. For a romantic evening, spend dusk to dark on the terrace of the Citadella Restaurant. Youll never for-get the sight of the lights coming up, one by one, on our historic buildings and on the bridges over the Danube.

In Buda, the oldest part of the city, walk the little winding streets and youll discover many restored medieval build-ings. And visit the inner city of Pest, a busy commercial and shopping area.

Visitors are often impressed by Budapests Art Nouveau architecture, seen in many late 19th- and early 20th-century buildings. The unique style incorporates old Hungarian folk motifs and beautifully glazed pottery roof tiles.

What are the Jewish attractions?Tourists can revel in Hungarys Jew-

ish cultural revival. The Judafest Street

Outside the capital, visit the splendid late 18th-century Baroque synagogue of Mad, located in a region renowned for its wines (and have a first-class wine tasting experience at Torok Pince). In the 1850s some 800 Jews lived here, many of them wine traders and kosher wine producers. The last Jew of Mad died in 1994, but the communitys synagogue, renovated in 2004 and awarded the pres-

tigious Europa Nostra Heri-tage Award, remains. It is now cared for by a non-Jewish couple. If you call them (00 36 47 348 043), they will show you the synagogue

and tell you many interesting stories.

Where can you find the best Jewish cuisine?

I recommend Yiddische Mamma Mia, which offers a fusion of Jewish and Mediterranean cuisine; Flemle (Nightingale) Restaurant, presenting tra-ditional home-made recipes for goose, smoked meats, and cholent (a Hungari-an-Jewish specialty bean dish); and Rosenstein Restaurant, a hidden trea-sure (as its located in a not-so-nice area near the Eastern Railways station), where the goose and duck are prepared with an especially light touch.

Dont miss out on the traditional Jew-ish dessert called flodnia layered pas-try of ground walnut paste, poppy seeds, and apples. Youll find the best flodni (with cherries instead of apple) in the

Festival, a free, joyous one-day Jewish music-performance-food festival, takes place each June. From late August to ear-ly September our Jewish Summer Festi-val features Jewish music, dance, fine art, books, and films. Also in early Septem-ber is the Day of Open Doors Street Par-ty, offering music, Hora dancing, arts and crafts, Krav Maga (Israeli martial arts) demonstrations, and more. Throughout

the year, exciting and buzzing Limmud days offer an array of Jewish community-building study sessions, many of them in English.

Budapests main Jewish attraction is the Dohany Synagogue, which seats 3,000 and is said to be the largest con-tinuously active synagogue in Europe, and the third largest in the world (after the Belz Great Synagogue in Jerusalem, seating 6,000, and the Satmar syna-gogue in Kyrias Joel, New York, said to seat 5,5007,000). The adjoining Jew-ish Museum, built on the former site of the birthplace of Zionist visionary The-odor Herzl, houses Europes second largest Judaica collection (after Berlins Judisches Museum). Also worth seeing is the 14th-century medieval Syna-gogue of Buda, on what was formerly called Jewish Street.

FROM L. TO R.: BET ORIM MEMBERS CELEBRATE HANUKKAH, 2011; SIM SHALOM MEMBERS CELEBRATE SHAVUOT, 2012.

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

Interview with Erika Siegfried-Tompson

BUDAPEST: Culture & Community

Greetings from Chain Bridge and Fishermans Bastion


Holocaust Memorial Centers coffee shop. Also try the Ruszwurm kremes (Cream Pastry), a mouth-watering sweet made of egg, vanilla and whipped cream, available at the Ruszwurm coffee shop, the oldest confectionery on the continent (since 1827), still run by the last active Hungarian confectionery dynasty.

How many Jews live in Hungary?The estimated number is 70,000

100,000a large variation because the vast majority of Jews are unaffiliated. Many hide their Jewishness and/or are not even aware of their Jewish origins, despite nearly 2000 years of Jewish pres-ence in the area. In the Second World War, Nazi Germans and Hungarians killed approximately 500,000 of 700,000 Hungarian Jews, all but extinguishing what had been the largest Jewish com-munity in Central Europe. Because of Nazi persecution, the subsequent Com-munist oppression of all religions, and continuing deep-rooted antisemitism, neither the Jewish community nor the general society has begun Vergangen-heitsbewaltigung, the proper processing of the past. Nonetheless, since 1989, the end of the Communist era, all religious groups have experienced a revival.

What is synagogue life like?The Neolog community, a Conserva-

tive Jewish stream that was once great and is now declining, lists 17 Budapest synagogues on its website. Budapest also has a small, independent Orthodox community with four synagogues; a small but vocal Chabad Lubavicher community with two synagogues; andin a revival of 19th-century Hungarian Reform Judaisma Progressive com-munity with two congregations, Sim Shalom and Bet Orim.

Sim Shalom (Give Peace), found-ed as an association in 1994 and as a congregation in 2004, was the first Pro-gressive synagogue to be established in post-Communist Hungary. Like many post-war Hungarian Jews, its founding leader, Katalin Keleman, a language teacher by profession, only became aware of her Jewish roots as an adult. She began engaging with Judaism in the late 80s, when the regime slowly relaxed its opposition to religion. Even-

tually she trained to become a rabbi and was ordained at the Leo Baeck College in London. Upon her return to Hungary, she slowly organized a community.

Today Sim Shalom has approximate-ly 60 paying members and as many occasional visitors. Servicesusing the communitys own siddur in Hebrew, transliteration, and Hungarianare held on most Friday nights in a rented inner-city apartment. The atmosphere is joy-ful, with lots of singing, as Cantor Mik-los Budai plays guitar and a young member accompanies him on drums.

My congregation, Bet Orim (House of Light), with approximately 50 members and about 100 supporters, was founded in 2005 to educate Hungarian Jews about Jewish traditions, history, practices, and ethicsknowledge that had not been passed down to them from their parents and grandparents. We consider it our mission to make both members and drop-ins feel equally welcome. Shabbat ser-vices are led by Hungarian-born Rabbi Ferenc Raj (PhD, Rabbi Emeritus of Congregation Beth El in Berkeley, Cali-fornia) with humor, love, and a little extra Jewish teaching that makes everybody feel that theyve taken away more than they came in with. His erudite sermons reverberate long after he delivers them. There is no dress code; you wear whatev-er makes you feel comfortable. We read from our own siddur, in Hebrew, translit-eration, and Hungarian, with a smattering of English text and poems. After the ser-vice we encourage lively discussion.

For all festivals, services are in both Hungarian and English, which enables Bet Orim to reach out to Budapests English speaking Jews and attract many foreign visitors. On the High Holy Days, services occasionally feature the well-known Hungarian pianist/singer Zoltan Neumark, the Yiddish-Hebrew-Ladino singer Diana Samu-Pandzarisz (who belongs to the congregation), and the internationally renowned classical guitarist Sandor Mester. Their masterful performances draw big crowds.

Do you have unique communal celebrations?

On Sukkot, Sim Shalom builds a suk-kah in a public park, waving the lulav and

Gottingen resident Brigitta Stam-mer oversaw the arranging of pri-vate donationsand arranged for the synagogue to be taken apart, wall-by-wall, stone-by-stone, piece-by-piece, moved 25 miles to the city, and reassembled.

The small synagogue was rededicated in November 2008. Today it is the house of prayer for some 160 members of the liberal Jdische Gemeinde Gttingen.

~&~Israel

1st Arab Students Group Hosted in Israel: In 2012, the Reform Movements Beit Shmuel (a cultural and educational mecca and housing complex that also serves as the WUPJs Jerusalem headquarters) hosted the first stu-dent group from the Arab world to visit and learn about Israel. Kivunim (Directions), a gap-year program in Israel based at Beit Shmuel, developed a rela-tionship with Moadon Mimouna, a group of Moroccan Muslim stu-dents who study the history and culture of Moroccan Jews and Judaism in order to better under-stand their own culture and histo-ry. Kivunims Executive Director Peter Geffen led a two-week experience that included a visit to Ramallah and meetings with high-ranking Palestinian officials. Participants left Israel with a new appreciation of the Jewish peo-ples accomplishments in the state and a strong desire to return: one dreams of becoming Moroccos first ambassador to Israel; others are reviewing scholarship oppor-tunities for graduate studies.

Progressive Preschool: In the fall of 2011, the Israel Movement for Progressive Judaism, in coopera-tion with the Jerusalem munici-pality, opened the Nitzanim pre-

GLOBAL NEWS from p.15

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MOSCOW: Culture & Community

Rabbi Leonid Bimbat is rabbi of Con-gregation Le-Dor va-Dor in Moscow.

What should travelers not miss in Moscow?

There is so much to see...Red Square, the Kremlin and its museums, our art galleries, the Bol-shoi Theater, ballet, operathe city is alive with culture.

What Jewish sites are most worth visiting?

The most impor-tant Jewish site is the stunning 1906 Moscow Choral Synagogue, with its Moorish style interior and Arabesque moldings and murals. And be sure to visit the new Jewish Museum, which tells the story of Jews in Russia from Tsarist times through today. I would also recommend Shalom Theater, the first professional Jewish theater in Russia, where you can see musicals, drama, and comedy.

What is your top travel tip?If you travel in winter, take warm

clothes with you, as -30 Celsius (-22 Fahrenheit) is not an unusual tempera-ture for winter months.

When did Progressive Judaism take root in Moscow?

Because of the events of the last cen-turywars, the repressive Soviet sys-temit was not possible for Judaism to develop freely and naturally in Russia. The first Reform Jewish group was established only 25 years ago. In 1989,

Reform Judaism, which embraced the questioning of text. This spiritual journey led to my becoming a rabbi.

Much of my work at Congregation Le-Dor va-Dor centers on helping Moscow Jews who have little Jewish literacy become more knowledgeable and raise Jewish children. Many of our adult congregants have a Jewish father and non-Jewish mother, and are therefore not recognized as Jewish by the Orthodox and Lubavitchers. At Le-Dor va-Dor, these patrilineal fami-lies are accepted and get to meet oth-ers like them; on Sundays, when their children are in religious school, for example, weve created a separate space where they can share their expe-riences and concerns.

About 20% of our members have con-verted to Judaism via the FSUs Reform Beth Din (rabbinical court). Most of these individuals are converting because they have no proof that their parents/grandparents were Jewish. In the Soviet period peoples ethnic origins were stated on their passports, and their parents ori-gins were recorded on their birth certifi-cates (nowadays ethnic origin does not appear on any official documents). Dur-ing WWII some families purposely dis-posed of their documents, and it is now impossible to trace their origins because many archives were destroyed during the war. Even for those congregants who were raised Jewish, if they do not have supporting documents, the only option to be acknowledged as a Jew by the Jewish community is by a Reform Beth Din con-version. The process takes at least one year, and many converts later become very active members. They also teach their parents and even their grandparents about their Jewish heritage.

Hineini was officially registered with the government as a congregation.

Now there are three Progressive con-gregations in Moscow: Hineini, Sever-naya (Northern, established in 2000), and our synagogue, Le-Dor va-Dor

(From Generation to Generation, established in 1999). Hineini and Severnaya serve hundreds of older people seeking a friendly Jewish environment in their neighbor-hood. Le-Dor va-Dor is primarily for families with young childrenwe took the name

after many families with small children decided to join. About 80% of our 200 members are under 40, and some fami-lies have 3 or even 4 children.

What else distinguishes your congregation?

Very few of our members were raised as Jews, at least with some degree of observance. Most discovered their Judaism as adults. My personal story is perhaps typical. Only at age 15, at the time of Perestroika in 1990, did I learn that my mother was Jewish. I started to learn Hebrew in my native Ekaterinburg, Rus-sia, and then began to bring my mother and maternal grandparents to Jewish events. Much later I became involved with Reform Judaism, but my very first step was choosing to be a Jew. Then came the choice of what kind of Jew to beOrthodox, secular, Reform. As a student of literature, I felt most at home with

BAR MITZVAH AT LE-DOR VA-DOR.

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

Interview with Leonid Bimbat

Greetings from the Kremlin wall at sunrise.


What are worship services like?Services are led by one of two Rus-

sian-born rabbis (Rabbi Alexander Lys-kovoy and myself) or our Ukrainian can-tor (Cantor Dmitry Karpenko). Having been largely influenced by the Israeli Movement for Progressive Judaism, we (and other Moscow Reform congrega-tions) use the Israeli Reform prayer book Haavoda Shebalev, which has been translated into Russian, reciting most of the prayers in Hebrew and a few in Rus-sian. When a visitor from abroad joins us, we always provide an English translation.

Our liturgical music is a unique blend of American and Israeli melodies, Chasidic tunes, and some additional melodies with a Ukrainian flavor com-posed by our cantor. The style of our services varies. On Friday night we sing more camp-style melodies accompa-nied by guitar, and attract young Jews. On Saturday morning, services are more classical, sometimes using an electronic organ, and families with chil-dren are the main participants.

Which holidays are most popular?Most popular is Passover, which we

typically celebrate with communal seders intermixing traditional readings, music (jazz and other styles), and video presen-tations of haggadah illustrations. Seders are popular in the wider Jewish commu-nity as well. This is our time to celebrate freedom from Soviet oppression, recall-ing the period not so long ago when it was forbidden to observe our religion.

Next in importance to our commu-nity is Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kip-pur. Year by year, more of our members come to understand the importance

of the High Holy Days as a time of spiritual renewal.

What are your most important Jewish lifecycle celebrations?

The most meaningful ones at Le-Dor va-Dor are baby naming, because we have many small children, and brit milah, because many adults who were not raised as Jews decide to be circumcised in private ceremonies at a local clinic.

Also, bar/bat mitzvah ceremonies are becoming increasingly common here. In the past, 13-year-olds had birthday parties; now most have a meaningful Jewish rite of passage. Whereas five years ago parents did not expect their children to have formal learning, it is now understood that bar/bat mitzvah involves a learning period of up to one year.

What else is unique about Le-Dor va-Dor?

We are the first Progressive congre-gation in Russia to introduce member-ship fees. The amount is very small, and does not allow the congregation to be self-sufficient; it represents a social (symbolic) membership fee for all those who chose to identify as Reform Jews. It is very unlikely that our two other Moscow congregations will follow this practice, since their members are older Jewspensioners coping with limited income and steep utility bills.

We hope you will come visit us. Le-Dor va-Dor is a friendly and lively community, with many members who speak English. You will be warmly welcomed here.

belts and machine guns at the readyat the entrance of all American institu-tions in Singapore. This included the American Club, where UHC services are typically held, requiring all High Holy Day worshipers to pass by these austere looking, unsmiling figures before enter-ing shul. On the first such occasion I whispered to my wife, Do we have to be worried if the Gurkha hears that my sermon was not especially good

tonight? Now, the Gurkhas are gone.Fortunately, Singapore has no history

of antisemitism. In a city where Buddhism and Christianity are thought to be the largest religious groupings, with signifi-cant Hindu and Muslim populations too, the Jews seem well-respected and fit in with ease. Jews here have also held prominent government positions: David Marshall, an Iraqi Jew, served as Singa-pores first Chief Minister, and later as Singapores ambassador to France, Por-tugal, Spain, and Switzerland.

Come visit. Youll enjoy Singapore.

school, Jerusalems only preschool program for children of refugees and foreign workers living in Israel. As a result, 20 pupils ages 36 from Eritrea, Sudan, the DRC (Congo), the Philippines, and Korea are improving their Hebrew lan-guage skills and being prepared for mainstream Israeli education on the HUC/Mercaz Shimshon-Beit Shmuel campus.

~&~Poland

Training Progressive Para-Professionals: As there are no native Polish-speaking Progres-sive rabbis working in Poland yet, Beit Polska (the national association of Progressive Juda-ism in Poland) is running an intensive service-leader training program in Warsaw called Shatz (short for Shlichei Tzibur, which in Hebrew means service lead-ers) for native first-year and second-year students. Once the students achieve the required level of competency, they will lead Shabbat services at small, emerging Jewish communities throughout the country

Milan Offers Torah to Krakow: This past October, 10 members of Beth Shalom Progressive Congregation in Milan, founded in 2002, presented a Torah scroll to the even younger Beit Kra-kow con-gregation in Krakow. Starting at the Galicia Jewish Museum, the Torah was placed under a chup-pah and marched, amidst crowds singing and dancing, through Krakows old Jewish quarter,


continued on p.21

Singaporecontinued from page 15

MARCHING WITH GIFTED TORAH TO BEIT KRAKOW.


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Greetings from El Yunque Rainforest

Harry A. and Barbara Tasch Ezratty are both past presidents of Temple Beth Shalom. Harry is also author of 500 Years in the Jewish Caribbean; Barbara is a food writer and book publisher.

What excites tourists about Puerto Rico?

The islands pub-lic beaches are popular destinations for snorkel-ing, scuba diving, boat-ing, swim-ming, sun-bathing, and kayaking. Fishing for Blue Marlin in the Atlantic Trench is a year-round sport that also attracts deep-sea fishermen worldwide for the falls big-game tournament. Big draws are professionally designed golf courses and hiking in El Yunque Rainforest, Puerto Ricos highest mountain range (3,500 feet). Zip-lininghurtling above the tree-lines from a looped line stretched from one mountainside to anotherhas become a hot new sport, and the Caves of Camuy, one of the worlds three largest cave systems, are breathtakingly, expan-sively beautiful.

What are the cuisine options?Puerto Rico is known as The Culi-

nary Capital of the Caribbean. You can enjoy American, Asian, Brazilian, Caribbean, Cuban, French, Italian, Mex-ican, Middle Eastern, Peruvian, Puerto Rican, Spanishand more. Tables Magazine: Puerto Ricos Guide to Great

SAN JUAN: Culture & Community

RJ INSIDERS GUIDE

On Friday nights, services are mostly in English and Hebrew, using Gates of Prayer; on Saturday mornings, services are mainly in Spanish and Hebrew, utiliz-ing a Spanish/Hebrew prayer book. This meets the whole congregations needsthe majority of whom are English-speak-ers and approximately 30% for whom Spanish is their first language. Fifteen years ago, TBS was all English-speaking, but as trained locals began to replace state-side middle-management personnel in island jobs and the resident Puerto Ricans started exploring Judaism, a number of Spanish speakers converted and found their Jewish home here. Many of these new Jews-by-choice came from anusim, families who knew or suspected their for-bearers included secret Jews. To this day, visiting rabbis offer training to them, and we hope more anusim will join us.

The TBS attire is very casual (except no shorts or beach clothes are allowed). Although we began as an almost Classical Reform congregation, we have moved towards traditionalism in ritual obser-vance; today most men wear kippot, and prayer shawls are prevalent. Part-time visiting rabbis, who stay for one or more months during the winter season, repre-sent varying degrees of tradition on the bimah, all of which are welcomed.

Do you have unique celebrations?Taschlich services are held on the

Caribbean beach, two blocks from TBSoften surprising bathing-suit clad tourists.

Join us for weekly services. Youll not only meet our friendly members, but people from other island congregations, cruise ship passengers, businesspeople staying at nearby hotels, and local univer-sity studentsand become part of Reform Judaisms family in sunny San Juan.

Dining (tablespr.com) can help you navigate 700 of the plentiful options.

The basic island food derives from a combination of the old Caribbean Taino Indian and Spanish influences. Basic food-stuffs, such as root vegetables, rice, and seafood, are available today in old-style

and updated versions reflecting the influx of myriad cultures on the islands cuisine.

What are the Jew-ish sites of interest?

In San Juan, three synagogues serve the popula-tion of approximately 2,000 Jews: a 215-family Conservative congregation, a 20-family Chabad congregation, and the 60-family Reform congregation, Temple Beth Shalom (TBS)some of these fam-ilies being descendants of Jews who emi-grated from the States to the island in the 1950s and 60s and formed the congrega-tion in 1967. All three congregations join together for community events and cooperate with the Chabad movements Jewish Welcome Center in Old San Juan, which offers tours of Jewish interest.

What are services like?Were very proud of being a singing

congregation. Without a full-time cantor, our congregants have learned both old and new melodies for weekly and holiday services from visiting vocalists. We par-ticipate not as audience members but fullyvery vocallyin weekly services.

Interview with Harry A. and Barbara Tasch Ezratty

TEMPLE BETH SHALOM SERVICE AT THE HISTORIC FORTRESS

IN OLD SAN JUAN.


Travels in American Jewish History A Study Mission to Historic Philadelphia, PA

May 1-5, 2013On May 1-5, 2013, the AJA will lead a group to Philadelphia,

PA to study its rich Jewish history. Participants will have the opportunity for interactive learning while touring sites such as the National Museum of American Jewish History, the Rosenbach Library plus the historic congregations of Philadelphia. Featured scholars include Dr. Jonathan D. Sarna, Dr. Lance J. Sussman and Dr. Gary P. Zola.

For more information, please contact Lisa Frankel, Director of Programs for the AJA, by e-mail: [email protected], phone: 513-487-3218 or visit our website: AmericanJewishArchives.org.

Reserve your place on the trip!

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Ayelet Bar/Bat Mitzvah and Family ToursCreating Lifelong Memories

In Depth Jewish Heritage Tours Guaranteed Weekly DeparturesChoose from 9,11,12 & 14 nights.

Making the Journey YoursIn IsrAel and ArounD THe WorlD

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Join Prof. Stephen Berks TrAvelInG unIversITY.

eastern europeJun 1627, 2013Jun 1527, 2014 Nov 414, 2014

ChinaNov 416, 2013

Australia & new ZealandDec 326, 2014

and to three synagogues before reaching the High Synagogue, where it was formally presented to Beit Krakow.

~&~Spain

Barcelonas Beit Din: In June 2011, 30 people (24 adults and six children ages 412) were convert-ed or welcomed back to Juda-ism at a Shabbat morning service in Barcelona.

It all started when the news got out that Rosina Levy of Bet Sha-lom of Barcelona would be pre-senting its candidates to the World Union for Progressive Judaisms European Region Beit Din (rabbinic court). Then, other Jewish communities throughout Spain asked to send their own candidates toosome of them traveling hundreds of kilometers to the only Beit Din that would help them achieve their dream of becoming Jewish.

Having studied with local teachers for at least a year before the Beit Din, the participants demonstrated proficiency in Jewish history, customs, religious festivals, and life-cycle events; the men also presented a certifi-cate of circumcision, as required by Jewish law and in accordance with European custom. Look-ing ahead, many of the newly initiated adult Jews-by-choice are already planning for their bar/bat mitzvahs.

This conversion program not only propelled Bet Shalom onto the front lines of Progressive Judaism in Spain, says Dr. Rifat Sonsino, who served as officiat-ing rabbi, but is now a model for other small congregations, which have learned what can be accom-plished with enthusiasm, dedica-tion, and the support of the Euro-pean Region of the WUPJ. This made me really proud.


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Greetings from Copacabana Beach

Raul Cesar Gottlieb is vice president of WUPJ Latinamerica, board member of ARIAssociao Religiosa Israelita of Rio de Janeiro, and editor director of Devarim Magazine.

What excites tourists about Rio?Brazil is a very welcoming country.

Be ready to be sur-rounded by smil-ing people 24/7, to drink heavenly caipir-inhas (a strong alcoholi

the rj insider's guide to world jewish travel - spring 2013

Documents

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progressive judaism

reform jews

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wonders of jewish rebirth

day jewish culture festival

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