the promise of ethical innovation - inca inchi · raw materials and ingredients for cosmetics...

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BARCELONA - SPAIN4-6 April 2006

The promise of ethical innovation

IN COSMETICS 20 PAGES 19/3/06 21:55

Solabia

in-focus Amazonia 3

in-cosmetics has chosen Barcelona to

launch the first edition of a new innovation

and networking feature: in-focus.

In its 16th year, in-cosmetics hasbecome the most g loba l andcomprehensive meeting of experts inthe development of beauty and wellbe ing products across marketsegments and specialties.

Because we know your time is scarceand valuable during the 3 energizingdays of in-cosmetics, in-focus intendsto do just what it says: bring youclarity, condensed expertise andmeeting opportunities on some of thehottest subjects in the industry.

For this first edition, in-focus bringsyou to the heart of the Amazon andnatural formulations. We sincerelyhope you will find the experience bothexciting and enriching.

Richard Hesk - Exhibition Director

CONTENTS

4. The promise of ethical innovation

7. A short glimpse at traditionalmedicinal plants from the Rain Forest

13. in-focus feature area

15. Conference schedule

17. Suppliers reference guide

Media partner:


4 in-focus Amazonia

Every year at in-cosmetics, one hauntingand challenging question seems to buzzin the aisles of the exhibition: what are thenew products? Like the skin, the beautyindustry constantly needs to renew itscells! Both visitors and exhibitors alike arecraving for new ideas and concepts.

However, in the great innovation race,some signs tell us that a short pausecould be beneficial to all. Consumers arelost among the thousands of productsand brands in the market and buying aday cream may sometimes generate highanxiety! At the same time, consumersand beauty editors are getting moreknowledgeable and demanding. Not onlydo they need to rely on the productefficacy and safety, they also expectbrands to have a philosophy and generalpolicy they can relate to. Functionality and product performance is no longerenough! The market wants new products– but products and brands withmeanings.

We now need to draw the curtain and gobehind the scene to explore each andevery step of product development –and make sure they are in line with the brand philosophy and consumerexpectations. To illustrate this essentialand fundamental trend in the industry, thefirst edition of in-focus brings you to theAmazon. Why the Amazon? Because the

The promise of ethical innovation

ethical question really started with theexponential growth of naturals in the90’s, because the Rain Forest is certainlya perfect model of the natural world,because it reveals the extraordinaryamount of efforts and involvementssuppliers of raw materials are putting intobuilding up a sustainable developmentpolicy.

The Amazon and the Rain Forestcrystallize the key issues at stake: theyrepresent both the most exciting sourceof possible new substances and at thesame time, the most critical challenges interms of sustainable development.

The Amazon is often associated withBrazil… But in reality Brazil enjoys 6extraordinary biomes covering a total of8.5 million km2. With close to 56,000vegetable species, Brazil has the richestflora in the world.

Solabia


The Amazonian region itself is known tohave the largest group of rain forests onEarth, with the highest and most diverserange of vegetable species in the world.The Mata Atlantica (the subtropicalAtlantic region) is the most important of

the Brazilian biomes and one of the 5 richest biodiversity hotspots onearth. It has been designated anInternational Biosphere Reserve byUNESCO in 1992 and inscribed on theWorld Heritage List in 1999. It shouldthus come as no surprise that Brazilappears as the new El Dorado ofnatural sciences and biotechnology.

It is the promise of extraordinary new substances at a time when thepressure for innovation is growing everstronger.

But if the Amazon is still to be calledthe New World, it should be in thesense that it represents the uniqueopportunity to learn from the past to create the conditions of a better,sustainable world.

This is the reason why in-focus 2006does not stop at presenting a range ofinnovative and exciting ingredients andconcepts. in-focus also invites you todiscover how cosmetic ingredientssuppliers work behind the scene.

Behind the appealing value of exoticplant names lies an enormous amount ofwork and involvement. Developing plantsfrom the Amazon is about identifying theright plants and the rights chemotypes…but it is also about working with itscommunities, committing to long-termcontracts, training the producers tointernational quality standards, securinga regular and reliable supply capacity… Itis about creating the guarantee ofrenewable resources and protecting theenvironment. It is about paying a tribute totraditions and fighting against biopiracy.It is about sharing the values of our world.Naturals brands have shown that ethicaldevelopment charts may sometimes bemore efficient than advertising to capturethe attention of new customers andbuild brand loyalty. Innovation must now be ethical… if only for economicalreasons.

in-focus Amazonia 5

Solabia


in-focus Amazonia

A short glimpse at traditional medicinal plants from theRain ForestAmong the many traditionalplants of the Rain Forest, somehave been the subject ofscientific studies and have beenmade available as standardizedcosmetic ingredients. To triggeryour inspiration here is a shortselection of some of the mostimportant plants in the region.

Açaí, Euterpe oleraceaAçai is a tall tree known as one of the

world’s main sources of palm hearts.

Its fruits are known to produce a very

popular drink in the Amazon. Their

dark colour is due to the presence

of polyphenolic compounds among

which anthocyanin – a powerful anti-

oxidant.

Andiroba, Carapa guianensisAndiroba or Brazilian mahogany is one

of the noble essences of the Amazon.

It is revered by the Indians as a sacred

tree. The seeds produce an oil rich in

essential fatty acids traditionally used

as an anti-inflammatory, insect repellent,

for wound healing and to treat various skin

disorders. Andiroba oil was used by the

Munduruku Indians for the mummification

of human heads. The Caboclos (Indian

tribe) produce a soap based on the oil.

Annato, Bixa orellana,Rocou, lipstick tree, urucumThe seeds of the annato shrub is the

source of a colouring agent for food and

body paints. They produce an oil which is

a rich source of anti-oxidant carotenoids

(bixin and norbixin). The leaves are also

used in traditionnal medicine.

Babassu, Orbignya barbosianaThe name comes from the Tupi

Guarani: ba, fruit and açu, large.

Babassu is considered as one of the

most productive oleaginous palms in

the world. The fruits produce a very

light and fluid oil with a high content in

lauric acid. Its traditional uses can

be traced up to the Maya.

Expanscience

IN COSMETICS 20 PAGES 19/3/06 21:56 Page 7

Breu branco, ProtiumdecandrumThe resin of Breu branco is an

illustration of the inspiring resources of

Brazil in the design of fragrances.

Buriti, Mauritia flexuosaTupi Guaranis say that where there is

Buriti, there is water. The Buriti oil is one

of the richest sources of beta carotene.

Candeia, VanillomopsiserythropappaCandeia is a tree of the South East and

Midwest regions of Brazil. The distillation

of the wood produces an essential oil that

is a rich source of Alpha Bisabolol.

Cangerana, Cabralea canjeranaCangerana is a tree of the Meliaceae

family. It is found in Paraguay, Uruguay,

Argentina and in the South East and

Central regions of Brazil.

The essential oil of Cangerana has a

characteristic blue colour and a

leather, marine note. It is known for

its purifying, energizing and anti-

inflammatory properties.

Beraca

Greentech

Castanha do Brasil, Bertholletiaexcelsa, Brazil nut, para nutAn important staple in the Indian’s diet,

the Brazil nut is a rich source of

selenium and essential fatty acids. It

produces the “leite de castanha” which

is used along with manioc flour for the

preparation of food. The oil is used as

an emollient for the skin and hair.

Cocau, Theobroma cacao,CocoaThe nectar of Mayan and Aztec gods,

Cocoa is appreciated for its high content

in polyphenols and has found exciting

new development in cosmetics these

last years.

Croda

8 in-focus Amazonia


Guarana, Paullinia cupanaThe name is derived from the Guarani

Indians. Guara means “human” and Na

means “similar”. Guarana is a famous

stimulating tonic. It is used in cosmetics

for its content in caffeine in toning,

astringent and slimming formulas.

Inca Inchi, Plukenetia volubilis L.The Inca Inchi is a plant of the Peruvian

Amazon.

The oils extracted from the kernels

originate from the ancient Quechua

(Inca) traditions and is an extraordinary

source of essential fatty acids: alpha

linolenic and linoleic acids.

in-focus Amazonia 9

Copaiba, Copaifera officinalisCopaiba is one of the key products of

traditional medicine. The tree produces

a resin known in the Amazon as

wound healer and is used in the

treatment of various skin disorders.

Copaiba shows a rich content in

Caryophyllene, known for its anti-

inflammatory properties.

Cumaru, Dipteryx odorata,TonkaBoth the seeds and the bark of the

tree are part of Indian traditional

medicine. The bark is used in the

preparation of therapeutic baths. The

seeds have a pleasant vanilla like aroma

and are used as food flavouring agents,

in fragrance and skin care treatments.

It is a rich source of coumarins.

Cupuaçu, TheobromagrandiflorumKnown as food of the Gods, Cupuaçu

belongs to the chocolate family and is

used in the preparations of fresh juice,

ice cream and jam.

The Cupuaçu produces a moisturizing

and emollient butter.

Greentech

Expanscience


10 in-focus Amazonia

Juazeiro, Zizyphus joazeiroThis shrubby tree of the Caatingas is

one of the most respected trees in

Brazil for its numerous applications.

The bark is used in hair care as a tonic

and a natural cleanser.

The fruit juice and the bark are used for

various skin disorders.

The plant is the source of triterpenes,

saponins, alkaloids and betulinic acid.

Juazeiro is allotted anti-bacterial, anti-

inflammatory and astringent properties.

Maracujá, Passiflora edulis,Passion fruitAlready known by the Aztec, Maracuja

is a classical plant of South American

traditional medicine.

Both the fruits (tonic) and the leaves

(sedative, pain reliever) are used.

The plant is a source of alkaloids,

glycosides and flavonoids.

Muira Puama, PtychopetalumolacoidesMost parts of this small tree can be

found in traditional preparations of the

Amazon. The plant is in the Brazilian

Pharmacopoeia since the 1950’s.

Muira Puama is called the “potency

wood” and is often quoted as a sexual

stimulant. It contains long chain fatty

acids, sequiterpenes, monoterpenes and

novel fatty acids.

Murumuru, Astrocaryummurumuru The seeds of this small palm tree

produce an emollient butter rich in

lauric acid.

Beraca

Croda


in-focus Amazonia 11

Pequi, Caryocar brasilienseThe fruits of this perennial tree are

valued for their content in proteins and

vitamin A.

The oil from the nut has a high content

in oleic and palmitic acids.

Sangre de Grado, Crotonlechieri, Dragon’s bloodDragon’s Blood is a tree growing

throughout the tropics and the

Amazon regions of South America.

When the trunk of the tree is cut,

a dark red sap oozes out as if

the tree is bleeding, earning its

local name of “Sangre de grado”.

Externally the sap was traditionally

used as an astringent, an antibacterial

and antifungal, a cicatrizant for

fractures and wounds, and as a

poultice in a lot of skin disorders like

eczema. Actives found in the sap

include proanthocyanidins, simple

phenols, diterpenes, phytosterols,

and biologically active alkaloids and

lignans. The major part of the actives

- proanthocyanidins and catechin

derivatives - and Taspine - a minor

component in the sap - are said

to comprise the anti-inflammatory

principle found in dragon’s blood

(courtesy of Crodamazon).

Stevia, Stevia rebaudianaThe honey yerba or candy leaf has

long been praised as a sweetener

used by the Indians in Yerba Mate tea.

The plant is rich in terpenes, flavonoids

and glycosides (among which is the

stevioside). It is used as an antibacterial

and wound healer.Croda

Greentech



Solabia

Suma, Pfaffia paniculataThis shrubby ground vine is known as

“para tudos” which means “for all

things” indicating its vast range of

applications.

The Suma root is the Brazilian ginseng,

a general adaptogen allotted tonic with

rejuvenating and sexual stimulating

properties. It is rich in amino acids,

trace elements and is known to be a

source of beta ecdysterone.

Yerba Mate, IlexparaguariensisParaguay tea is a popular drink

throughout South America, but

especially in Paraguay, Uruguay and

Brazil. The xanthin alkaloids content

accounts for its tonic and anti-

oxidant properties.

Warning the above data is the synthesis

of different bibliographicalsources. It is the responsibility ofthe users to verify the allegationsand that the use of some extracts

are not covered by a patent.


The notion of Natural Cosmetics seen through the prism of theAmazon is certainly as vast as the Rain Forest itself. Beyond nature, it relates to biodiversity and the possibility of novel molecules and innovation. It relates to sustainable development issues such asfair trade and the preservation of eco systems. But it also refers to therelationships between the exotic, cultural identity and brand identity…Meet with the laboratories who work on the subjects, discover theirnew products and explore the potential that lies ahead.

in-focus feature area

1. BIODIVERSITY AND TRADITIONS

Plants from BrazilSee, touch and feel an original selection of medicinal leaves, seeds and barkspresented by Beraca.

2. BRAND VALUES AND IDENTITY

Brazilian Beauty StoreDiscover some of the most interesting Brazilian brands provided by Mintel.Discuss the Brazilian influences on international markets.

3. SENSORIAL DESIGN

Brazilian InspirationsAgipal is presenting original natural fragrances from Brazil among which is aprodigious blue essence. Expanscience has teamed up with Affix (www.affix.fr)to imagine sensual skin care formulas inspired by the traditional uses ofvegetable oils and butters from the Amazon. Rohm and Haas is presenting anenvironmental approach to hair styling.

4. COSMETIC FOODING

Cosmetic Candy BarIndulge your skin with fabulous beauty marmalades and delicious candies byLessonia.

Brazilian Juice BarRepulp your skin vitality and radiance with fresh fruit juices from the Amazon bySolabia.




5. NATURAL FORMULATION

Natural Beauty BarExplore the possibilities of all natural formulas with delightful textures fromLucas Meyer Cosmetics, Orafti and Soliance.

6. WELLBEING

Rain Forest SpaCroda is introducing new beauty and well being rituals inspired by the traditions ofthe Rain Forest.

7. SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

The Omega ProjectGreentech and Cosnessens (www.cosnessens.com) present original formulasimagined as a tribute to ancient Quechua (Inca) beauty rituals based on IncaInchi - a plant of the Peruvian Amazon that is part of a reforestation programme.

Aldivia / PhytoTrade Africa

Aldivia is presenting an original approach to fair trade which takes into accountthe relationships between intellectual properties, product innovation andtraditional medicine.

Greentech



Conference ScheduleAll presentations are free to attend

TIME 4 APRIL 200610:45-11:15

12:00-12:30

12:45-13:15

14:00-14:30

15:15-15:45

16:30-17:00

17:15-17:45

ABC (Associação Brasileira de Cosmetologia)Brazil: big challenges for a big countryMr. Angel Lizárraga, Vice President of the ABC andInternational Sales Manager of Ox Cosméticos

ExpanscienceAmazonian oils: botany, tradition, extraction and modernapplications.Alex Saunois, PhD, Lipochemistry and Plant Extraction LaboratoryManager.

CrodaBenefits of Brazil nut oil on colour degradation of dyed hair.Vânia Maria Pacchioni, Manager, Crodamazon Brazil.

SolabiaBiodiversity and Sustainable Development: the Araucaria 2005Assignement.Jean-François Molina, Marketing Director, Solabia Group.

Lucas Meyer CosmeticsTowards “all-natural” formulas?Agnès Le Fur, R&D Manager new raw materials andapplication formulas.

BeracaInnovative cosmetic ingredients obtained from sustainableresources of the Brazilian biodiversity.João Carlos de Souza Matos, Biodiversity EnhancementProgram Manager.Maria Inês Bloise, Technical Director.

Max HavelaarMax Havelaar fair trade certification (FLO Certification) Séverine Peron, Cotton and Cosmetics Industry Manager.


TIME 6 APRIL 2006

10:15-10:45

11:15-12:00

13:00-13:30

14:45-15:15

Evic FranceExotic plants and safety evaluation.Philippe Masson, Chairman.

MintelFrom Rio to the Rainforest: the influence of Brazil oncosmetics and skincare.Lynn Dornblaser, Director of GNPD Consulting Services,Chicago.David Jago, Director of GNPD Consulting Services, London.

GreentechInca Inchi: an example of sustainable development withinLatin America.Jean-Yves Berthon, President, Greentech.José Anaya, CEO and founder of Agroindustrias AmazonicasCompany.

AldiviaAldivia indigenous botanical oils and actives: the fair tradeattitude with IP sharing.Pierre Charlier de Chily, CEO Aldivia.


Conference Schedule



1. AGIPALA specialist in essential oils andvegetable oils (raspberry seed andChilean hazelnut virgin oils), Agipalselects raw materials for the cosmeticindustry with the greatest of care fromthe outset. Key Amazonia references: 100%pure and natural essential oils:Cangerana Paraguay (Cabraleacanjerana), Brazilian Rose (Anibarosaedora) and Alpha Bisabololobtained from the Candeia essential oil(Vanillomopsis erythropapa).

2. ALDIVIA / PHYTOTRADEAFRICA

Adivia focuses on organic and FairTrade cosmetics ingredients fromAfrica and South America. WithPhytoTrade Africa based in SouthernAfrica, Aldivia is a pioneer in sharingintellectual properties with primaryproducers on the products they develop.Key Amazonia references: Andirobaoil, Buriti oil, Brazil nut oil, Coffee oil.

3. BERACA

Beraca Ingredients is a Brazilianlaboratory founded in 1956 and isamong the leading manufacturers ofvegetable specialties from the Amazonfor the cosmetic and pharmaceuticalmarkets. Most Beraca products arecertified by the FSC (ForestStewardship Council) and organiccertification by Ecocert.Key Amazonia references: Andiroba,Annato, Babassu, Buriti, Castanha doBrasil, Cupuaçu, Maracujá, Piqui,Priprioca, Tucumã, Ucuúba, Açai,Murumuru.

4. CRODA

Croda International has a dedicatedsubsidiary in Brazil, Crodamazon, witha plant in Manaus since 2001.Crodamazon’s mission is to studyplants of the Brazilian biodiversity.Crodamazon’s portfolio includesproducts certified by the FSC, theSustainable Agriculture Network (SAN)and the IBD (Instituto Biodinamico) fororganic plants.Key Amazonia references: Andiroba,Brazil nut, Buriti, Green Coffee, Cupuaçu,Guarana, Maracuja, Murumuru, Pequi,Urucum, Babassu, Tucumã, Cocoa,Mate, Stevia.

Suppliers reference guide


5. EXPANSCIENCE

Expanscience Laboratories have morethan 50 years’ experience in the field of plant oi ls and offer act iv i tysubstantiated active ingredients. Key Amazonia references: Cupuaçubutter, Para-nut oil, Andiroba oil.

6. GREENTECH

Since its creation in 1992, Greentech hasdedicated itself to soft biotechnology forsafeguarding endangered plants and theconservation of biodiversity. Greentechhas development programmes in LatinAmerica, Melanesia and Central Africa.Key Amazonia references: Inca Inchi,Green Coffee, Cocoa, Stevia.

7. LESSONIA

Traditions around the world haveinspired Lessonia to offer the cosmeticand Spa markets a wide variety ofnatural ingredients.Key Amazonia references: non-refined 100% organic and Fair Tradesugar cane, Guarana, Luffa Annatto.

8. LUCAS MEYERCOSMETICS

A specialist in phospholipids and novelnatural substances, Lucas MeyerCosmetics develops new skin carestrategies exploring the benefits ofbiocompatibility and the regulation ofcell metabolisms.

9. MINTEL

Mintel is a global supplier of consumer,media and market research. For overthirty years, Mintel has partnered with clients to monitor competitors,understand consumers, develop newproducts, refine marketing efforts anddiscover profitable new opportunities.

10. ORAFTI

Orafti Bio Based Chemicals is part ofthe Orafti Group, the world leader inchicory and rice based ingredients.The company deve lops h igh lyfunctional solutions of natural origin.

11. ROHM AND HAAS

Rohm and Haas is a specialty materialscompany focused on deliveringtechnically advanced products andservices with a world renown expertise inpolymers for the personal care industry.

12. SOLABIA

Solabia group started its activities inBrazil with the creation of Solabia do Brazil in 1995 and later, SolabiaBiotecnologica and Solabia Botanica doBrazil to develop natural actives for thecosmetic and nutraceutical markets.Key Amazonia references: Babaçu,Condurango, Sugar Cane, Capinxingui,Papaya, Araucaria.

13. SOLIANCE

Soliance focuses on innovating andtailor-made cosmetic solutions based onnatural substances. The company hasdeveloped an expertise in the fields ofbiotechnologies R&D and productionof plant & phytoplankton extracts. Key Amazonia references: Juazario.


Suppliers reference guide


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