the product whore of babylon - chicago reader · edge about lip plumpers and exfoliators, face...

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10 CHICAGO READER | NOVEMBER 4, 2005 | SECTION ONE Chicago Antisocial By Liz Armstrong A nyone who tells you she can permanently shrink your pores is a big fat liar. I know because plastic surgeon Norman Leaf and registered nurse Rand Rusher told me so, and they’ve carved up enough celebrity faces to have a clue what they’re talking about. I met them last week at a media preview of the new loca- tion of C.O. Bigelow, a New York- based beauty-products store, in Water Tower Place. The compa- ny began as an old-fashioned Greenwich Village apothecary 167 years ago but was bought in 2003 by Limited Brands, which also owns Bath & Body Works, Victoria’s Secret, Express, and the Limited. The first location still has a pharmacy and a room- ful of surgical supplies, but its outposts are shadows of the orig- inal, carrying nothing but luxe beauty products yet calling themselves apothecaries. A supercute blond publicist named Kate ran me around the stainless-steel prongs. When you roll it over your face, the prongs perforate your skin, supposedly making any product (preferably Leaf and Rusher’s special serum) more potent because more of it gets to sink in, and deeper. DIY skin perforation is pretty creepy if you think about it too hard, but Leaf and Rusher gave me one and I’m using it and I look radiant, so who am I to judge? Dr. Leaf’s face looked blurry, like he’d made a Silly Putty transfer of himself, stretched it out, and wrapped it around his skull. Nurse Rusher—decked out in forest green scrubs—had lips like two plump, delicious hot dogs, gorgeous inquisitive eyes, and a few pleats of skin near his ears. “Maybe some light therapy would temporarily help shrink pores,” Rusher said, but those sebum-plugged craters are, sadly, hereditary. The rep from the skin-care line Murad concurred. “The only thing you can do is keep the pores clean,” she said. She informed me that a pimple and a sunburn are almost the same thing: both are angry inflamma- tions, and they’re treated basical- ly the same way. Who knew? I was also told about Danielle Roches, a World War II doctor who is supposed to have invented a cream to help burn victims regrow singed brows and lashes. Now the technology is available to the masses thanks to a compa- ny called Talika, which also makes a fuzzy mascara wand that attaches hairlike rayon fibers to your lashes and a gel infused with those fibers so you can paint on eyebrows. The mascara made me look like Tammy Faye Bakker Messner, but when I accidentally washed the gel sample off my hand I begged the rep to paint it back on—I loved walking around the fancy store with a hairy paw. “Now watch this,” said the rep from Kevyn Aucoin, the line started by the late makeup artist. “This is sick and out of control.” Tightly holding my jaw with one hand—a move so saturated with confidence that it always makes me feel safe—he dabbed sparkly white highlighter on my face. One dot in the corner of each eye, one dot in the divot above my lip (“Just like Marilyn Monroe used to do,” he said), and the mirror introduced me to a brighter, poutier version of myself. Later, the Nars rep made me up with their new eye shadow duo, a combination of shimmery brick red and lilac, smudged some black on top of that, and capped it all off with a glittery olive brown shadow called Nightlife. “Gorgeous,” she said. I looked like a zombie. I spent four hours sniffing fra- grances and learning which serums—it’s all about serums now—are supposed to do what and why. I tested the gamut, from supergirlie shit that smelled so sweet it hurt my stomach to thick vegan organic sludge that looked like the left- overs from brewing beer. I learned about an all-natural hair- and skin-care line based on propolis, a nutrient-rich natural antiseptic that bees line their hives with. I gobbled up knowl- edge about lip plumpers and exfoliators, face volumizers, fine- line erasers, skin brighteners, glossing creams, amino acid chains, and cuticle sealants till I was dizzy. I think I was the last media person to leave. If the store were a bar, the lights would’ve been on, the music off, and the bartender yelling at me to get the hell out of there. C.O. Bigelow supposedly encourages sampling—at least they did at the preview, though they were germ freaks about it, using tiny plastic spatulas to dis- pense pinhead-size drops of cream onto the back of my hand, never the palm. But I went to their outpost in Schaumburg at Woodfield Mall last Thursday, the day it opened to the general public, and I got the impression they really didn’t want me touch- ing their pretty things. The employees were sweet and help- ful, though a few seemed quite bewildered by all the products around them. But they weren’t keen on handouts, and they were watching me like they thought I might steal something. I’m usually a hippie when it comes to beauty products—if it’s made from jojoba and clove extract, I’ll take it. But now I don’t know. This $100 Juvena eye serum I’ve been using for the past week, made with something called Skin Nova Technology, might seem like a rip-off—and it is—but it works, dammit. Three days after I started using it I was at a party and some 19-year-olds asked me what school I go to. When I told them I’m 28 they seemed almost grossed out. “Wow,” one of them said. “I think what makes you look so young is your eyes.” When my free sample runs out I might actually have to pony up for more. v store all day, introducing me to the representatives of dozens of unguent hawkers. I asked the Molton Brown rep if he had any- thing for a hangover, and he handed me a sample of black- pepper body wash—one of the company’s top sellers despite its spicy fragrance, which I found unpleasant. I could hardly believe it: I was dressed, blow- dried, and having conversations at 11:30 AM—and enjoying it. When I said I was hungry the effervescent Kate brought me a sleek ceramic platter covered with little finger foods, garnished with a fresh-picked orchid. Yes, they were schmoozing me. But somehow it felt classy—nice and unnecessarily generous, lacking the whiff of desperation that comes off a lot of start-ups. Leaf and Rusher recently start- ed selling a beauty tool called the DermaRoller, a sort of Garden Weasel for your face. At the end of a plastic wand there’s a little spool speckled with hair-thin Clockwise from top left: Dr. Leaf and Nurse Rusher (in green), Kevyn Aucoin makeup, the house Apothecary Rose line, and Talika’s eyebrow improvement products at C.O. Bigelow ANDREA BAUER [email protected] The Product Whore of Babylon Drunk on youth serums, glossing creams, and face volumizers. Yes, face volumizers.

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Page 1: The Product Whore of Babylon - Chicago Reader · edge about lip plumpers and exfoliators, face volumizers, fine-line erasers, skin brighteners, glossing creams, amino acid chains,

10 CHICAGO READER | NOVEMBER 4, 2005 | SECTION ONE

Chicago Antisocial

By Liz Armstrong

A nyone who tells you shecan permanently shrinkyour pores is a big fat liar.

I know because plastic surgeonNorman Leaf and registerednurse Rand Rusher told me so,and they’ve carved up enoughcelebrity faces to have a cluewhat they’re talking about.

I met them last week at amedia preview of the new loca-tion of C.O. Bigelow, a New York-based beauty-products store, inWater Tower Place. The compa-ny began as an old-fashionedGreenwich Village apothecary167 years ago but was bought in2003 by Limited Brands, whichalso owns Bath & Body Works,Victoria’s Secret, Express, andthe Limited. The first locationstill has a pharmacy and a room-ful of surgical supplies, but itsoutposts are shadows of the orig-inal, carrying nothing but luxebeauty products yet callingthemselves apothecaries.

A supercute blond publicistnamed Kate ran me around the

stainless-steel prongs. When youroll it over your face, the prongsperforate your skin, supposedlymaking any product (preferablyLeaf and Rusher’s special serum)more potent because more of itgets to sink in, and deeper. DIYskin perforation is pretty creepyif you think about it too hard,but Leaf and Rusher gave meone and I’m using it and I lookradiant, so who am I to judge?

Dr. Leaf ’s face looked blurry,like he’d made a Silly Puttytransfer of himself, stretched itout, and wrapped it around hisskull. Nurse Rusher—decked outin forest green scrubs—had lipslike two plump, delicious hotdogs, gorgeous inquisitive eyes,and a few pleats of skin near hisears. “Maybe some light therapywould temporarily help shrinkpores,” Rusher said, but thosesebum-plugged craters are, sadly,hereditary.

The rep from the skin-care lineMurad concurred. “The onlything you can do is keep the

pores clean,” she said. Sheinformed me that a pimple and asunburn are almost the samething: both are angry inflamma-tions, and they’re treated basical-ly the same way. Who knew?

I was also told about DanielleRoches, a World War II doctorwho is supposed to have inventeda cream to help burn victimsregrow singed brows and lashes.Now the technology is availableto the masses thanks to a compa-ny called Talika, which alsomakes a fuzzy mascara wand thatattaches hairlike rayon fibers toyour lashes and a gel infused withthose fibers so you can paint oneyebrows. The mascara made melook like Tammy Faye BakkerMessner, but when I accidentallywashed the gel sample off myhand I begged the rep to paint itback on—I loved walking aroundthe fancy store with a hairy paw.

“Now watch this,” said the repfrom Kevyn Aucoin, the linestarted by the late makeup artist.“This is sick and out of control.”

Tightly holding my jaw with onehand—a move so saturated withconfidence that it always makesme feel safe—he dabbed sparklywhite highlighter on my face.One dot in the corner of each eye,one dot in the divot above my lip(“Just like Marilyn Monroe usedto do,” he said), and the mirrorintroduced me to a brighter,poutier version of myself.

Later, the Nars rep made meup with their new eye shadowduo, a combination of shimmerybrick red and lilac, smudgedsome black on top of that, andcapped it all off with a glitteryolive brown shadow calledNightlife. “Gorgeous,” she said. Ilooked like a zombie.

I spent four hours sniffing fra-grances and learning whichserums—it’s all about serumsnow—are supposed to do whatand why. I tested the gamut,from supergirlie shit thatsmelled so sweet it hurt mystomach to thick vegan organicsludge that looked like the left-overs from brewing beer. Ilearned about an all-naturalhair- and skin-care line based onpropolis, a nutrient-rich naturalantiseptic that bees line theirhives with. I gobbled up knowl-edge about lip plumpers andexfoliators, face volumizers, fine-line erasers, skin brighteners,glossing creams, amino acidchains, and cuticle sealants till Iwas dizzy. I think I was the lastmedia person to leave. If thestore were a bar, the lightswould’ve been on, the music off,and the bartender yelling at meto get the hell out of there.

C.O. Bigelow supposedlyencourages sampling—at leastthey did at the preview, thoughthey were germ freaks about it,using tiny plastic spatulas to dis-pense pinhead-size drops ofcream onto the back of my hand,never the palm. But I went totheir outpost in Schaumburg atWoodfield Mall last Thursday,the day it opened to the generalpublic, and I got the impressionthey really didn’t want me touch-ing their pretty things. Theemployees were sweet and help-ful, though a few seemed quitebewildered by all the productsaround them. But they weren’tkeen on handouts, and they werewatching me like they thought Imight steal something.

I’m usually a hippie when itcomes to beauty products—if it’smade from jojoba and cloveextract, I’ll take it. But now Idon’t know. This $100 Juvenaeye serum I’ve been using for thepast week, made with somethingcalled Skin Nova Technology,might seem like a rip-off—and itis—but it works, dammit. Threedays after I started using it I wasat a party and some 19-year-oldsasked me what school I go to.When I told them I’m 28 theyseemed almost grossed out.“Wow,” one of them said. “I thinkwhat makes you look so young isyour eyes.” When my free sampleruns out I might actually have topony up for more. v

store all day, introducing me tothe representatives of dozens ofunguent hawkers. I asked theMolton Brown rep if he had any-thing for a hangover, and hehanded me a sample of black-pepper body wash—one of thecompany’s top sellers despite itsspicy fragrance, which I foundunpleasant. I could hardlybelieve it: I was dressed, blow-dried, and having conversationsat 11:30 AM—and enjoying it.

When I said I was hungry theeffervescent Kate brought me asleek ceramic platter coveredwith little finger foods, garnishedwith a fresh-picked orchid. Yes,they were schmoozing me. Butsomehow it felt classy—nice andunnecessarily generous, lackingthe whiff of desperation thatcomes off a lot of start-ups.

Leaf and Rusher recently start-ed selling a beauty tool called theDermaRoller, a sort of GardenWeasel for your face. At the endof a plastic wand there’s a littlespool speckled with hair-thin

Clockwise from top left: Dr. Leaf and Nurse Rusher (in green), Kevyn Aucoin makeup, the house Apothecary Rose line, and Talika’s eyebrow improvement products at C.O. Bigelow

AN

DRE

A B

AUER

[email protected]

The Product Whore of BabylonDrunk on youth serums, glossing creams, and face volumizers. Yes, face volumizers.

Page 2: The Product Whore of Babylon - Chicago Reader · edge about lip plumpers and exfoliators, face volumizers, fine-line erasers, skin brighteners, glossing creams, amino acid chains,

CHICAGO READER | NOVEMBER 4, 2005 | SECTION ONE 11