the most useful rope knots for the average person to know

The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know


Home Page

10/17/2005 See the "Modification History" at the bottom of this page for the most recent changes that have been made.

For your convenience, you can now download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file: UsefulRopeKnots.zip (4,091K). To unzip this file, try downloading a free evaluation version of WinZip at WinZip's Download Page. Be sure to come back here periodically to check for any changes to these articles. Added on 10/17/2005 (10/17/2005)

Introduction

I'm not quite sure what it is, but there is something fascinating about knots. Thousands of knots have been invented over the millennia, there are multitudes of books and websites entirely devoted to knots and teaching how to tie knots and knot artwork and the mathematics of knots and the history of knots, there are computer programs for displaying knots and showing how to tie knots, there are knot tyers' magazines, newsletters, discussion groups, clubs, associations, guilds, and so on.

But with this overload of information on thousands of knots, how is the average person supposed to know which knot is the best and safest to use when he needs to tie something? After all, using the wrong knot, or using a poorly-tied knot, has led to many accidents, injuries, deaths, and destruction of property.

People who use ropes, fishing lines, yarn, etc., in their work or in their recreation (such as sailors, rock climbers, fishermen, weavers, farmers, search-and-rescue workers, and so on) are familiar with various knots that they use frequently. But for the average person who only uses knots occasionally, it is helpful to learn just a few knots which are easy to remember, easy to tie, etc., yet are strong and secure and safe for a wide variety of purposes. By learning a few good knots and practicing them now and then, you will be well prepared for those times when you need to tie secure knots in rope or string.

file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Index.htm (1 of 11) [3/12/2010 9:38:24 AM]

http://www.winzip.com/ddchomeb.htm


Background Information

Every rope has a "breaking strength," which means that if we place a heavy enough strain on a rope then it will eventually break. The Safe Working Load of a rope is generally considered to be one-fifth of the rope's breaking strength, according to BoatSafe.com.

Knots almost always reduce the breaking strength of a rope, sometimes by 25%, 50%, or more. At my local hardware store, the highest-rated rope that I found has a Safe Working Load of 450 pounds, but most of the ropes I saw were rated at under 300 pounds. If a rope has a Safe Working Load of 300 pounds, then we might assume that it should easily be able to lift an injured 200-pound man to safety, right? But if we tie a knot in the rope to help lift the injured man, and if the strength of that knot is rated at 60%, then the Safe Working Load of our rope has suddenly been reduced to 180 pounds (60% of 300 pounds). The injured 200-pound man is now beyond the Safe Working Load of our rope because of the knot we tied.

Modern ropes used by rock climbers often have a breaking strength of several thousand pounds when they are new, but what about the rope that you bought at the hardware store or the grocery store (which has been sitting around in your garage forever)? What was its Safe Working Load when it was brand new? How old is that rope now, and how much wear and tear has it been through? How much of a load is your rope capable of holding now? And do you know (or do you remember) how to tie secure knots that won't slip and won't cause your rope to break under a strain or under a series of jerks? Because of these issues, the best type of knot is one which reduces the breaking strength of a rope as little as possible, is easy to remember how to tie properly, is easy to tie, is secure enough not to spill and come loose, is easy to untie even after being under a heavy load, and so on.

Knot Strength Ratings

Considering the number of people who are trusting their lives to the knots that they tie in ropes (rock climbers, cavers, search-and-rescue workers, etc.), it is surprisingly difficult to find solid research on the strengths of the main knots that are being used. Here is a table which lists the knot strengths that I have been able to find after digging around the Internet. The values listed in this table are referring to the remaining breaking strength of a rope after the particular knot has been tied (every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website):

Adjustable Grip Hitch 80% or

more


http://www.boatsafe.com/marlinespike/safeload.htm


Alpine Butterfly 75%

Bowline 60% 70-75% 70-75% 67-75% 60% 67% 60% or more

Bowline on the Bight 60% 60% or

more

Carrick Bend 55-60% 65%

Clove Hitch 75% 60-65% 60-65% 60-65% 75% 60-75%

Double Bowline (Double-Knotted

Bowline) 70-75% 70-75%

Double Figure-Eight Loop 82%

Double Fisherman's Knot 65-70% 65-70% 65-70%

Figure-Eight Knot 50% 75-80% 70-75% 75-80% 48% 81%

Figure-Eight Loop 80% 80%

Fisherman's Bend (Anchor Bend) 70% 60-65% 60-65%

Over 5/8" dia. ring 55-65% Over 4" dia. post 80-90%

70%

Inline Figure-Eight Loop 75%

Overhand Knot 45% 60-65% 60-65% 60-65% 45%

Overhand Loop 85%

Reef Knot (Square Knot) 45% 43-47% 45% 43-57% 45% 45%

Sheep Shank 45% 45%

Sheet Bend 48-58% 55%



Timber Hitch 70% 70%

Two Half Hitches 75% 60-65%

Over 5/8" dia. ring 60-70% Over 4" dia. post 65-75%

75% 60-75%

Water Knot 60-70% 60-70%

Source Source Source Source Source Source Source *

* Geoffrey Budworth is a co-founder of the International Guild of Knot Tyers and was responsible for updating and revising "the knot enthusiasts' bible," The Ashley Book of Knots (by Clifford Ashley).

The values in the last column are from Budworth's book, The Complete Book of Knots.

I don't know how reliable the above figures are, but this table gives us an idea of how limited (and conflicting) the available data is. Since the sources of the data don't always tell us how the tests were conducted, and they don't always tell us what type of rope was used, and they don't always tell us how old or how worn the ropes were, and they don't always tell us how many times each test was done in order to get a good sampling, etc., we can't really tell how accurate or reliable this information is. The type of rope used, the age of the rope, the condition of the rope, and even such factors as the temperature and humidity in the air can affect these tests (which is why testing labs try to use a controlled environment in which the temperature and humidity can be precisely measured - see for example Rescue System Mechanics, Interim Report), not to mention the fact that if a knot was not tied properly, or was not "dressed" properly, or was not "set" properly (these terms will be explained in a moment), these factors can affect the tests as well. In fact, if the testers made a mark on the rope in order to measure how a knot changes as the strain on the rope increases, that mark on the rope can significantly decrease the breaking strength of the rope (see http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/safety_3.htm and search for "Magic Marker").

Other considerations are whether the tests were conducted by slowly increasing the strain on the knotted rope to see when the rope breaks, or whether the tests involved a series of hard jerks on the knotted rope, and so on. Because of these considerations, how are we to interpret the above data when one source says that a knot has a 48% strength rating and another source says that the same knot has an 81% strength rating? (See the Figure-Eight Knot above). It is valid to ask, "48% or 81% under what kind of conditions, with what kind of rope, using what kind of test?"

As we can see, a single number for the strength rating of a knot (such as 81%) cannot realistically tell us how our particular ropes will stand up under the particular weather conditions of the moment (hot and dry, rainy and wet, freezing cold), under the particular strain which we are placing on the ropes, with the


http://www.geospectra.net/kite/knots/knots.htm

http://www.amc-ny.org/rec_actv/canoe/pstx0797.html#knots3

http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/rope.html

http://www.bobarnott.com/rocketry/stuff/knots/index.shtml

http://www.neropes.com/splice/knots.htm

http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/1030/bmc/c8.htm

http://mtncommunity.org/dcforum/DCForumID1/896.html

http://www.igkt.net/

http://www.amrg.org/Rescue_System_Mechanics.pdf

http://www.amrg.org/Rescue_System_Mechanics.pdf

http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/safety_3.htm


particular way that we have tied that particular knot (properly tied or improperly tied), and so on. Therefore, it is probably best to interpret the common strength ratings of knots as general guidelines, and also to be guided by the combined experiences of people such as search-and-rescue workers who are trusting their lives and other people's lives to the knots that they use. Obviously different people will have different opinions and preferences, but certain knots tend to emerge as being commonly trusted in life-or-death situations such as rock climbing and rescue operations. If such knots are secure and are trusted when lives are at stake, then it is reasonable that they are likely to be secure and trustworthy for the everyday purposes of the average person.

In discussions at websites which are devoted to sailing, rock climbing, caving, search and rescue, and so on, it appears that there are several "loop knots" which are preferred by people whose lives depend on secure knots. The most-mentioned loop knots which the average person might find useful in a variety of situations tend to be the Alpine Butterfly, the Bowline, the Bowline on the Bight, the Figure-Eight Loop, and the Double Figure-Eight Loop. The general consensus among climbers, cavers, search-and-rescue workers, etc., seems to be that the Alpine Butterfly, the Figure-Eight Loop, and the Double Figure-Eight Loop are about equal in knot strength, and that they are about 10-15% stronger than the Bowline and the Bowline on the Bight (both of which are generally considered to have the same knot strength). In addition, the Double-Knotted Bowline tends to be equated with the knot strength of the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure-Eight Loop. There are several other loop knots which are mentioned less frequently (and we will look at some of those knots), but I wasn't able to determine a general consensus for the knot strengths of those other loop knots.

There are various types of knots besides loop knots, and we will look at many of those knots in this series as well. If you learn some of the dozens of knots described in this series of articles, you will probably find that your brain goes into a cramp trying to decide which knot to use when you need to tie a rope or string to something. Therefore, in each category I have tried to boil the information down to just one or two of the best knots, which I personally consider to be "The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know" (hence the name of this website). I'll give the reasons for my choices, but you might find that you prefer different knots than the ones I have chosen.

Terminology

When a rope circles around and then crosses over itself, this is often referred to as a "loop":



A "bight" is essentially an open loop:

After you tie a knot, it is important to "dress" the knot properly. This means making sure that all parts of the knot are in the right place and that the rope doesn't cross itself unnecessarily. Each time a rope is sharply bent over something (such as another part of the rope), it can stress and tear some rope fibers. This is why it is important to dress the knot properly, because otherwise you are weakening the rope without realizing it, and in some cases you might be trusting your life or property to a significantly weaker rope than you had expected. In the pictures below, the first one shows an improperly-dressed knot and the second one shows the same knot which is properly dressed:

Again, if a knot is not properly dressed then it can weaken the rope more than a properly-dressed knot can. Also, the knot should be "set" by being tightened before it is used. Otherwise the knot might "slip" or "spill" or "capsize" and become unstable or fall apart, which can potentially be disastrous.

Knowing the best knot to use and properly tying it and properly dressing it and properly setting it can



save your life or save someone else's life or protect your valuable possessions from damage.

References and Links

There are many people who can be considered experts in knots. In this series of articles I have mainly quoted from two recognized authorities on knots:

1. Clifford Ashley, whose book, The Ashley Book of Knots, contains 3,900 different knots and 7,000 illustrations, and has been called the definitive reference work on knots and "the knot enthusiasts' bible."

2. Geoffrey Budworth, who is one of the co-founders of the International Guild of Knot Tyers (see the link below) and who was responsible for updating and revising The Ashley Book of Knots by Clifford Ashley.

Here are several websites which provide a lot of information on knots. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:

● The A-Z of Knots ● Animated Knots ● Fifty Basic Knots ● International Guild of Knot Tyers ● Knots on the Web ● Ropers Knots Page ● Six Exploding Knots

If you have any questions about knots, I would recommend that you visit the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. There are some very knowledgeable people on that forum who will probably be able to answer your questions.

Site Map

Here is a list of the articles in this series, and the dates when they were last updated. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:

● Home Page (this page) 10/17/2005


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0385040253/102-9736333-7993737?vi=glance

http://www.scoutingresources.org.uk/knots_az01.html

http://www.animatedknots.com/

http://www.folsoms.net/knots/


http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm

http://www.realknots.com/knots/index.htm

http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/writing/explode.htm

http://www.igkt.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=news

http://www.igkt.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=news


● Knots Index 11/2/2005 Added on 10/17/2005 ● Single-Loop Knots 03/27/2006 ● Double-Loop Knots 10/17/2005 ● Triple-Loop Knots 10/17/2005 ● Hitches 10/17/2005 ● Bends 10/17/2005 ● Miscellaneous Knots 10/17/2005 ● Decorative Knots 10/17/2005

Consider visiting my other websites! As a former home-schooling dad, I have been putting together some websites which contain fun and educational activities for kids of all ages:

● Christian Evangelism, Healing, and Teaching Resources

This is my online Christian ministry.

If you ever want someone to pray for you or your loved ones, please feel free to send your prayer requests to me at [email protected], and I will be praying for you. I look forward to hearing from you!

Also, if you ever have any questions about God, or Jesus, or the Bible, or a particular Christian doctrine, or certain Bible passages, etc., please feel free to send me your questions and I'll do my best to prayerfully answer them. Consider visiting my home page at Layhands.com and doing a simple Find (click the Edit menu in your browser, then click Find) in case there is already an article which addresses your question. You can also check my Topic Index, which has a list of all of my articles grouped by topic. To search my website for a specific Scripture passage, type the full name of the book and the chapter number (in double quotes, such as "1 Corinthians 14") into the Google search box at the top of my home page, then press Enter or click Search. You can also use the Google search box to search my website for all articles which contain specific key words or phrases. [Note: I have no control over the search results.]

May the Lord abundantly bless you and yours!


http://www.layhands.com/

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.layhands.com/

http://www.layhands.com/TopicIndex.htm


● Cool Science Tricks Added on 12/28/2005 (12/28/2005)

This website started out as a fun family project during the Christmas holidays (2005).

We wanted to put together a list of quick/fun/fascinating things to try (science experiments or games or puzzles), and our choices are admittedly a bit arbitrary and random. The emphasis here is less on explaining the science involved, and more on simply describing some fun and interesting things to do, especially things that make us say "Wow, cool!"

We deliberately chose not to put these activities in any particular order. Instead, as you scroll through each page we hope that various interesting things will catch your eye for you to try!

● Easy Card Tricks for Kids of All Ages

Card tricks are fun for adults and kids alike, but it can be difficult to perform the sleight-of-hand which many card tricks require. The tricks described here require no sleight-of-hand at all, and this makes it easy for kids to learn and perform them.

Since they are "self-working" or "mathematical" card tricks, it can be a fun and educational exercise for kids to try to figure out why the tricks work! When I was a teenager, one of these card tricks totally stumped my friend and me because we couldn't figure out why it worked every time. After doing the trick over and over I finally had that Aha! experience when I "saw" what makes it work. This website will give you an idea of how to figure out what makes the tricks work so that kids of all ages can experience the thrill of that Aha! moment when they unlock the mysteries of the card tricks!

● Fun, Free Educational Computer Games for Kids

There are many wonderful computer games out on the Internet which help teach lots of important skills in fun ways, but it can be difficult trying to find the best free software.

My kids and I have had a great time downloading new software, eagerly anticipating playing the new games, and then weeding out the not-so-good ones from the "keepers." The games listed and reviewed here are some of the better ones that we have come across. My kids both began using the computer when they were two years old, and they both enjoy playing computer games with me (where I use


http://www.layhands.com/ScienceTricks

http://www.layhands.com/CardTricks

http://www.layhands.com/FreeGamesForKids


some of the controls and they use some of the other controls). It's actually a good way to have fun, educational family time together, and it helps teach them valuable computer skills, not to mention teaching them about sharing and patience!

● My Freeware Games, Puzzles, Screen Savers, and Utilities

This website contains a lot of free software that I have written just for fun over the years. You'll find some games and puzzles which (hopefully!) are fun and which stimulate hand-eye coordination or logical thought processes, some screen savers, and some utilities which I use fairly frequently.

This website also contains free Visual Basic 6.0 code for creating your own screen savers. You'll learn how to use VB graphics commands for drawing lines, circles, rectangles, and so on, and it includes the graphics routines for some of the free screen savers that can be downloaded here.

● Visual Baseball - A New Method for Scoring Baseball Games

If you enjoy watching baseball games, then using a scoresheet can add an extra dimension to the game. Scoresheets enable you to look back at what happened in previous innings and previous at-bats, they allow you to keep various statistics if you desire, and so on.

If you sometimes watch baseball games with friends or loved ones, but you don't really care much for baseball, then using a scoresheet can make the game more interesting and enjoyable. It gives you something to do to pass the time, and you might find that suddenly you're the "expert" when people start checking with you to see what happened earlier in the game!

Try videotaping a baseball game on TV and then showing your kids how to use a scoresheet to keep track of the game. This is a clean and fun family activity to do together!

Many people have created some nice scoresheets (for lots of examples, see BaseballScorecard.com), but they are mostly variations on a standard method of scoring baseball. Visual Baseball is a different concept than most other scoresheets, and it provides more visual information "at a glance" than most other scoresheets (which is why it's called Visual Baseball).

● Easy HTML Tutorial


http://www.layhands.com/Freeware

http://www.layhands.com/VisualBaseball

http://www.baseballscorecard.com/

http://www.layhands.com/EasyHtmlTutorial


There are many different programming languages for writing computer software, and one of those languages is called "HTML." HTML stands for "HyperText Markup Language," and it is used for creating Web pages (most of the websites on the Internet were written in HTML). It is a good first computer language for kids to learn because it doesn't cost anything, it is fairly simple to understand, and it allows kids to instantly see results when they make changes to their HTML code. It also can be used for creating complex Web pages (especially when combined with JavaScript or VBScript), so it allows for growth as you or your kids dig deeper into Web programming.

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Home Page" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots

Modification History

10/17/2005: Added a new page called "Knots Index." Added the ability to download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file.

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article, and updated all of the other articles.05/27/2004: Added a link to the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers.05/04/2004: Added a new page called "Decorative Knots," added pictures of a "loop" and a "bight" in

the Terminology section (the Terminology section was originally called "Dressing and Setting a Knot"), and added a link to some interesting "exploding" knots in the "References and Links" section.

12/10/2002: New article.

Dave Root Houston, TX, USA

Send e-mail to: [email protected]



Bends


Bends(and other ways of tying ropes together)

For your convenience, you can now download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file: UsefulRopeKnots.zip (approx. 4 MB). To unzip this file, try downloading a free evaluation version of WinZip at WinZip's Download Page. Be sure to come back here periodically to check for any changes to these articles.

Site Map

If you have never visited this website before then I would recommend that you begin at the Home Page. It explains that the type of rope you use, the age of the rope, the wear and tear on the rope, the types of knots you tie, whether you tied the knots properly or not, whether you "dressed" the knots properly or not, whether you "set" the knots properly or not, and so on, all have an impact on the Safe Working Load of your rope and the security of the knots you tie. Whatever risks are associated with the rope or string that you use and the knots that you tie, remember that the risks are entirely your own.

Here is a list of the articles in this series. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:

● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends (this page) ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots

file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Bends.htm (1 of 25) [3/12/2010 9:38:27 AM]


Bends

Bends (and other ways of tying ropes together)

When two ends of rope are tied together (whether they are from the same rope or from two different ropes) with a single knot, the knot is referred to as a "bend."

If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use, and how to tie it properly, when you need to tie two ends of rope together securely. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one or two strong bends which you can remember easily. My preferences are the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load) or the Alpine Butterfly Bend, for reasons which I'll describe throughout this article.

Be sure to practice tying your favorite knots periodically (from different angles) so that you'll know how to tie them when you need them.

1. Adjustable Grip Hitches (Interlocked) This is simply made up of two Adjustable Grip Hitches tied to each other, similar to the Bowline Bend.

According to Budworth, "This practical slide-and-grip knot can be grasped and shifted easily by hand in either direction but locks up firmly under load. After the load is removed, the knot may be slid along the rope again. The momentum of a fall will cause the knot to slide and so absorb energy. ... Later tests involving 5.5-mm (1/4-in) Kevlar indicated that, when used as adjustable bends, these knots grip (i.e., do not slip) and break at around 80% of the absolute rupture load of the material used. This figure may be an underestimate." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.95, emphasis added).

Since the Adjustable Grip Hitch is a strong hitch (as Ashley and Budworth described above), it can be a handy way to tie two ropes together, if necessary. One advantage is that it can be used with two ropes that have different thicknesses. This is not really a bend, but if you like the Adjustable Grip Hitch then this is an easy way to remember how to attach two ropes to each other fairly securely (the point here is that the "average" person might not desire to learn a variety of knots, and might not recall how to tie a secure bend when needed).


Bends

For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly Bend.

2. Alpine Butterfly Bend Knots which form secure loops often make good bends as well. This is a variation of the Alpine Butterfly which turns it into a secure bend.

Method #1 To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. In picture 1, the end of rope coming in from the right passes under and then through the loop from behind, then it curves upward to form a loop with the end crossing over on top of the main part of the rope. Notice that the two loops are essentially mirror-images of each other in picture 1. Bring both ends of rope through the center of the knot (where the two loops overlap each other) from behind (picture 2). Notice in picture 2 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from the same direction (i.e. from behind). Dress and set the knot (picture 3).

-1 -2

-3

One nice thing about this bend is that it doesn't matter whether the end of rope coming in from the right passes through the loop from the front or from behind, which makes it easier to


Bends

remember how to tie this bend. The important thing is that the two interlocked loops are mirror-images of each other, and that both ends of rope pass through the center of the knot from behind.

This knot is somewhat similar to the Ashley Bend, the Hunter's Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.

Method #2 Here is another method of tying the Alpine Butterfly Bend which is essentially the same as my preferred method of tying the Alpine Butterfly. This makes it easy to remember how to tie the loop or the bend whenever you need them. Start by wrapping one end of rope once around your hand (strand #1 in picture 1 below) so that the end of the rope comes up from the bottom (as part of strand #2 in picture 1). In reality you would hold the end of rope against your palm with your thumb, unlike in the pictures. Then overlap the other end of rope with the first end of rope (as part of strand #2 in picture 1), holding both ends with your thumb, and wrap the rope around your hand so that you essentially have three strands of rope laying on the palm of your hand (picture 1 below). Grab the left-most strand (#1 in picture 1) and bring it all the way to the right over the other two strands (pictures 1 and 2). Once again grab the left-most "strand" (i.e. the two overlapped ends) (#2 in picture 3) and bring the ends all the way to the right over the other two strands (pictures 3 and 4). After bringing the overlapped ends over the other two strands, push them back to the left under the other two strands (picture 5). The dressed knot should look like picture 3 above.

-1 -2


Bends

-3 -4

-5

According to Budworth, the Alpine Butterfly can be pulled in two or three directions at once without distorting or capsizing, and he says that if your rope is damaged then you can isolate the damaged area by tying an Alpine Butterfly around it (The Complete Book of Knots, p.86-87). This indicates that the Alpine Butterfly is a strong and secure bend, because the two ends of rope can be viewed as a "damaged" section of the rope.

In The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (p.72), Brion Toss refers to this as the Strait Bend, and he says, "This knot, structurally analogous to the Butterfly Knot (Figure 3-34), is the strongest of this series and neither slips nor jams." On p.70, Toss says that in his experience, the Strait Bend (the Alpine Butterfly Bend) is on a par with the Ashley Bend, which survived 100 pulls in Ashley's testing.

Method #3 An alternate way to tie two ropes together is simply to make interlocking Alpine Butterfly loops, similar to the Bowline Bend.

Since the Alpine Butterfly is one of the strongest and most secure loop knots, it can be a handy way to tie two ropes together, if necessary. One advantage of this method is that it can be used


Bends

with two ropes that have different thicknesses. This is not really a bend, but if you like the Alpine Butterfly then this is an easy way to remember how to attach two ropes to each other fairly securely (the point here is that the "average" person might not desire to learn a variety of knots, and might not recall how to tie a secure bend when needed).


3. The Ashley Bend or ABOK #1452 Clifford Ashley invented this bend and published it in The Ashley Book of Knots, listing it simply as #1452. For this reason, people sometimes refer to it as ABOK #1452 ("Ashley Book of Knots" #1452), or as "the Ashley Bend."

To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. The end of rope coming in from the right should pass over and then through the loop from the front, then it should curve downward and form a loop with the end crossing over on top of the main part of the rope (picture 1). Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other in picture 1. Bring both ends of rope through the center of the knot (where the two loops overlap each other) from behind (pictures 2 and 3). Notice in picture 3 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from the same direction (i.e. from behind). Dress and set the knot (picture 4).

-1 -2


Bends

-3 -4

It's important that the end of rope coming in from the right passes through the loop from the front, and that it loops downward and crosses over on top of itself. Also, both ends of rope must pass through the center of the knot from behind. Otherwise you won't end up with the Ashley Bend.

This knot is somewhat similar to the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Hunter's Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.

In The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (p.70), Brion Toss says that the Ashley Bend has all of the advantages of the Zeppelin Bend, but it is easier to tie. Toss also points out that the Ashley Bend survived 100 pulls in Ashley's testing (p.70).


4. Bowline Bend or ABOK #1455 Knots which form secure loops often make good bends as well. The Bowline Bend is simply made up of two Bowlines tied to each other.


Bends

Ashley says that this "is about the most common of all Hawser Bends." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.264, #1455)

For a discussion of some ways to "lock" a Bowline to make it more secure, see the forum topic called Simple lock for the bowline at the International Guild of Knot Tyers.


5. Carrick Bend or ABOK #1439 The Carrick Bend has been called a nearly perfect bend. To tie this knot, first make a loop in one end of rope (which is coming down from above in picture 1), making sure that the end of the rope passes under the main part of the rope. Then bring the second end of rope completely under the loop (picture 1). Pass the second end of rope over the main part of the first end of rope, then under the first end of rope (picture 2). Now thread the second end of rope over, under, then over as in picture 3. Inspect the second end of rope very carefully to make sure that it exactly alternates between going under and going over as it threads its way through the knot. Dress and set the knot (picture 4).

-1 -2


http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=19.0

Bends

-3 -4

Ashley says that this is "perhaps the nearest thing we have to a perfect bend. It is symmetrical, it is easy to tie, it does not slip easily in wet material, it is among the strongest of knots, it cannot jam and is readily untied." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.262, #1439).

According to Budworth, "Although often assumed to be strong, it is in fact only about 65% efficient. ... The symmetrical layout of the carrick bend, with eight crossing points, yields several different knots, depending on what goes over and under where. For this reason, some very unreliable knots have been misleadingly labelled carrick bends." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.43).

One big drawback of the Carrick Bend is that if you don't follow the under-over arrangement exactly right then the bend will be unsafe, and in fact various books, manuals, websites, etc., contain incorrect pictures of the Carrick Bend. However, this is a good bend for string (when tied correctly) because it is easier to untie than most of the other bends.

This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.


6. Double Dragon Bend Knots which form secure loops often make good bends as well. This is my variation of the Double Dragon which turns it into a bend. In pictures 1 and 2, notice that the two ends of rope are not evenly lined up with each other. This helps them to be evenly lined up when the knot is dressed and set (picture 3).


Bends

-1 -2

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This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. However, there has been some discussion on the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning the use of the Double Dragon as a mid-line loop or a bend because this might cause the knot to jam and be difficult to untie (for example, see the forum topic called Double Dragon vs. Double-tucked Angler).

Method #2 An alternate way to tie two ropes together is simply to make interlocking Double Dragons, similar to the Bowline Bend.

Since the Double Dragon seems to rival the Alpine Butterfly as a strong and secure loop knot, it can be a handy way to tie two ropes together, if necessary. One advantage of this method is that it can be used with two ropes that have different thicknesses. This is not really a bend, but if you like the Double Dragon then this is an easy way to remember how to attach two ropes to each other fairly securely (the point here is that the "average" person might not desire to learn a variety of knots, and might not recall how to tie a secure bend when needed).





Bends

7. Double Fisherman's Knot or Grapevine Knot or Double English Knot or ABOK #1415 This bend is similar to the basic Fisherman's Knot, except that it uses Double Overhand Knots instead of regular Overhand Knots. This seems to be a popular bend among rock climbers. It is generally considered to be a strong and secure bend, but it can be very difficult to untie. Using one end of rope, tie a Double Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 1). Now flip the rope over and once again tie a Double Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 2). Notice in picture 1 that the end of rope with a blue circle on it is on the right side, and when you flip the rope over (picture 2) then the end of rope with a blue circle is now on the left side. I find that it works best if you tighten the knot in picture 1 before flipping the rope over to tie the second knot, but I left the first knot untightened in picture 2 just for the sake of clarity. After you tighten the two knots, pull them together and they should stack nicely next to each other (picture 3).

-1

-2

-3




Bends

8. Double Sheet Bend or ABOK #1434 This is a variation of the Sheet Bend in which you make an extra turn with the end of rope that is coming up from the bottom in picture 1.

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This is more secure than the basic Sheet Bend, but it still is not usually considered to be a very strong knot. In Ashley's testing, the Double Sheet Bend came apart after only 36 pulls, compared with the Ashley Bend which stayed intact through 100 pulls (see p.273 of The Ashley Book of Knots or p.70 of The Complete Rigger's Apprentice by Brion Toss).

This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness, and it is good for tying ends of cloth together.


9. Figure-Eight Bend or Flemish Bend or ABOK #1411 This is essentially a "rethreaded" Figure-Eight Knot. First tie a Figure-Eight Knot in one end of a rope (picture 1), then take the other end of rope and follow all of the twists and turns of the Figure-Eight Knot from the other direction (pictures 2 and 3). Carefully dress and set the knot (picture 4). Make sure to dress the knot properly so that all of the strands of rope are parallel to each other and don't cross over each other.


Bends

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This is generally considered to be a secure bend, but Ashley says that "It is bulky and bothersome to tie, and not to be preferred to [the Ring Knot], which is made in a similar manner." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1411, brackets added).

On the other hand, Budworth says, "Writing in The Ashley Book of Knots (1944), Clifford W. Ashley deemed this knot '... bulky and bothersome to tie'. (He preferred the tape knot (p.100)). This is another instance where the needs of sailors and climbers differ" (The Complete Book of Knots, p.96).

So Ashley preferred the Ring Knot (the Tape Knot) over the Figure-Eight Bend, but Budworth feels that the Figure-Eight Bend is better for climbers. For extra security, many climbers add some type of "stopper knots" to the ends of the rope, such as Double Overhand Knots:

However, people have had serious accidents by not properly rethreading the Figure-Eight Knot (for example, see SILT HAPPENS #99-2 and do a Find on "Figure 8's vs. Bowlines").


http://www.gcsar.org/silt/1999/2/99-2.htm

Bends

Method #2 An alternate form of a Figure-Eight Bend is the Abnormal Figure-Eight Bend. To tie this knot, simply hold the two ends of rope together and tie a Figure-Eight Knot:

-1 -2

The general consensus among climbers seems to be that this version is not a very reliable bend. For example, when the ropes are pulled in opposite directions then it can cause this knot to distort and become unsafe (unlike the normal Figure-Eight Bend, above).

Both forms of this bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness.


10. Fisherman's Knot or Water Knot or Angler's Knot or English Knot or Englishman's Knot or True Lover's Knot or Waterman's Knot or ABOK #1414 Oddly, the Fisherman's Knot is actually a bend, and the Fisherman's Bend is actually a hitch.

The Fisherman's Knot is similar to the Double Fisherman's Knot, except that it uses regular Overhand Knots instead of Double Overhand Knots. Using one end of rope, tie an Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 1). Now flip the rope over and once again tie an Overhand Knot around the other end of rope (picture 2). Notice in picture 1 that the end of rope with a blue circle on it is on the right side, and when you flip the rope over (picture 2) then the end of rope with a blue circle is now on the left side. I find that it works best if you tighten the knot in picture 1 before flipping the rope over to tie the second knot, but I left the first knot untightened in picture 2 just for the sake of clarity. After you tighten the two knots, pull them together and they should stack nicely next to each other (picture 3).


Bends

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-3

According to Budworth, "This is - strictly speaking - a strong and secure bend to join two similar ropes." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.39). However, climbers seem to prefer the Double Fisherman's Knot for its greater strength and security.

The Fisherman's Knot is easy to remember, easy to tie, it results in a small, clean, nice-looking knot which is less bulky than most of the other bends, and it is now one of my preferred bends for a variety of applications. However, it can be difficult to untie if it has been under a strain.



11. Hunter's Bend or Rigger's Bend To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. The end of rope coming in from the right should pass over and then through the loop from the front, then it should curve upward and form a loop with the end crossing behind the main part of the rope (picture 1). Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other in picture 1. Bring the end of rope


Bends

on the left through the center of the knot (where the two loops overlap each other) from behind (picture 2), then bring the end of rope on the right through the center of the knot from the front (picture 3). Notice in picture 3 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from different directions (one from behind and one from the front). Dress and set the knot (picture 4).

-1 -2

-3 -4

It's important that the end of rope coming in from the right passes through the loop from the front, and that it loops upward and crosses behind itself. Also, the two ends of rope must pass through the center of the knot from different directions. Otherwise you won't end up with the Hunter's Bend.

This knot is somewhat similar to the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Ashley Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.

For the average person who only wants to learn one or two good bends, my choices would be the Fisherman's Knot (for rope or string which will not hold a heavy load), or the Alpine Butterfly


Bends

Bend.

12. Overhand Bend or ABOK #1410 This is simple and quick to tie, but it is often considered to be a weak bend. For example, when the ropes are pulled in opposite directions then it can cause this knot to distort and become unsafe. To tie this knot, simply hold the two ends of rope together and tie an Overhand Knot.

-1 -2

Ashley says that the Overhand Bend "ranks higher than the Sheet Bend in security, but is among the weakest of the bends." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1410).


For climbers, it is possible that the Overhand Bend (with long tails) has some advantages over other bends, according to Rope and Gear Testing. Since long tails are needed with an Overhand Bend when used for climbing, this demonstrates that an Overhand Bend can distort and become unsafe if the tails are not long enough. Otherwise, long tails wouldn't be needed! This also raises the question of how long the tails really need to be.


13. Reef Knot or Square Knot or ABOK #1402 This is not a bend, but I included it here because people sometimes erroneously use it as a bend. The Reef Knot is unreliable and unsafe when used as a bend.


http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

Bends

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For more on the Reef Knot, see the Miscellaneous Knots section.

Ashley says that the Reef Knot is admirable as a binder knot, "but under no circumstances should it be used as a bend." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1402).


14. Ring Knot or Water Knot or Tape Knot or ABOK #1412 This bend is often referred to as the Water Knot, but Ashley says that there are a number of knots which are called the Water Knot, so it is perhaps best to use the name Ring Knot for this bend (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1412). When it is used with strips of webbing (such as the kind that rock climbers use) then it is sometimes referred to as the Tape Knot. To tie this knot, first tie an Overhand Knot in one end of rope (picture 1), then take the other end of rope and follow all of the twists and turns of the Overhand Knot from the other direction (pictures 2 and 3). Carefully dress and set the knot (picture 4).

-1 -2

-3 -4

This is a fairly secure, nice-looking knot for tying two ropes of the same thickness, although it


Bends

can be somewhat difficult to untie after holding a load. It is also considered to be good for tying grasses, wet rope, and rubber together (e.g. for repairing swimming goggles), which makes it a versatile bend. Ashley says that "The Ring Knot is an excellent bend for wet gut." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1412), and he says that it is to be preferred over the Figure-Eight Bend (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1411).

According to Budworth, "This is the bend recommended for climbers' tape or webbing. It also works in rope, cord, string and the finest monofilaments. ... Isaac Walton called this knot the water knot. Hutton referred to it as the ring knot" (The Complete Book of Knots, p.100).


15. Sheet Bend or ABOK #1431 This is a well-known bend, but it is not generally considered to be very strong or reliable.

-1 -2

According to Budworth, "Security tests have shown it to spill after an average 22 tugs out of 100, and it is not a very strong knot, with a breaking strength of 55%." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.40).

This bend should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness, and it is good for tying ends of cloth together.



Bends

16. Zeppelin Bend or Rosendahl's Bend This was Lieutenant Commander Charles Rosendahl's preferred bend for mooring the zeppelin that he commanded, which is where the name of this bend comes from.

To tie this knot, make a loop in the end of rope which is coming in from the left, making sure that the end curves upward and crosses over on top of the main part of the rope. The end of rope coming in from the right should form a loop with the end curving down and crossing behind the main part of the rope (picture 1). Notice that the two loops are not mirror-images of each other in picture 1, and notice that the end of rope coming in from the right does not pass through the loop on the left. Place the loop on the left on top of the loop on the right (picture 2), then bring the end of rope on the left through the center of the knot from behind (picture 3), then bring the end of rope on the right through the center of the knot from the front (picture 4). Notice in picture 4 that the two ends of rope are passing through the center of the knot from different directions (one from behind and one from the front). Dress and set the knot (picture 5).

-1 -2

-3 -4

-5


Bends

It is important that the end of rope on the left curves upward and crosses over itself, and that the end of rope on the right curves downward and crosses behind itself. Also, the two ends of rope must pass through the center of the knot from different directions. Otherwise you won't end up with the Zeppelin bend. It is also important that the loop on the left is placed on top of the loop on the right, otherwise you will end up with a false Fisherman's Knot which has no security at all!

This knot is somewhat similar to the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Ashley Bend, and the Hunter's Bend, and it should only be used with two ends of rope which are roughly the same thickness. All four of these bends are variations on a theme of interlocked Overhand Knots, and all four are considered to be strong, secure bends. In the pictures of these four bends, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left side always loops around and crosses over on top of itself, then it comes through the knot from behind to form an Overhand Knot. So the difference in these four bends depends on what happens with the end of rope coming in from the right side. See the Summary section for some advantages that the Alpine Butterfly Bend has over the other three similar bends.

According to Budworth, "This is probably the best of a whole trustworthy family of symmetrical bends comprising two interlocked overhand knots. It works even in big stiff hawsers and cables and is suitable for everything from hobbies to heavy industrial use. ... The knot does not have to be completely tightened before loading; it is secure even with daylight showing through it (fig. 4)." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.44).


Summary

The Reef Knot (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the Square Knot) is unreliable and unsafe as a bend. It should never be used for that purpose. The Overhand Bend is quick and simple, and it is used sometimes when the rope or string will not need to hold a heavy load. It is not generally considered to be very safe or secure, and it can be difficult to untie after it has held a load. However, it's possible that the Overhand Bend (with long tails) has some advantages for climbers. The Sheet Bend and the Double Sheet Bend can be useful for tying ends of cloth together, but they are generally considered to be too weak and unreliable for rope or string.

The Carrick Bend and Double Fisherman's Knot are generally considered to be strong and secure, but they have certain disadvantages. For example, they can be difficult to remember how to tie properly if you don't use them very often, and the Double Fisherman's Knot can also be very difficult to untie. The


Bends

Carrick Bend is usually very easy to untie, which makes it a good bend for string.

The Adjustable Grip Hitches (Interlocked), Alpine Butterfly Bend, Bowline Bend, Double Dragon Bend, and Figure-Eight Bend are all based on hitches or loop knots which are fairly strong and secure. These have an advantage over other bends because they work well when tying together two ropes of different thicknesses (when they are tied as interlocked loops).

The Ring Knot (Water Knot, Tape Knot) is easy to remember because it is simply a rethreaded Overhand Knot, and it results in a nice-looking knot. It is fairly easy to tie and dress, and it is a fairly strong and secure bend, but it can be difficult to untie after holding a load. It is also recommended when tying together webbing (or tape), wet materials, rubber materials, and so on.

The Figure-Eight Bend (Flemish Bend) is fairly easy to remember because it is simply a rethreaded Figure-Eight Knot, but it is less quick and easy to tie and dress than the Ring Knot. It is also bulkier than the Ring Knot. However, due to its twists and turns it has more internal friction than the Ring Knot, and therefore it is stronger and more secure. For this reason, climbers often prefer the Figure-Eight Bend (with some type of Stopper Knots) over other bends for situations when lives are at stake.

The Fisherman's Knot (Angler's Knot, Englishman's Knot, True Lover's Knot, etc.) is easy to remember, easy to tie, and it results in a small, clean, nice-looking knot which is less bulky than most of the other bends. However, it can be difficult to untie if it has held a heavy load.

The Alpine Butterfly Bend, Ashley Bend (ABOK #1452), Hunter's Bend (Rigger's Bend), and Zeppelin Bend (Rosendahl's Bend) are all based on interlocked Overhand Knots, and they are all considered to be strong and secure bends. However, the Alpine Butterfly Bend has some potential advantages over the other three bends. For one thing, if you stick with the Alpine Butterfly family of knots (as suggested in this series of articles), then it will be easy to know that you have tied this bend correctly because it will have the Alpine Butterfly "look" to it. Also, the other three bends are "unforgiving" in the sense that if you pass one end of rope through a loop in the other end of rope from the wrong direction, or if you curve the second end of rope upwards when you should have curved it downwards, or if you cross the second end of rope on top of itself when it should have crossed behind itself, then you will not end up with the bend that you were trying to tie. In contrast, the Alpine Butterfly Bend is very forgiving. It doesn't matter which way you pass the second end of rope through the loop in the first end of rope, and it doesn't matter if you curve the two ends of rope upwards or downwards, and it doesn't matter if you cross the two ends of rope on top of themselves or behind themselves. The only thing that matters is that the two ends of rope form interlocked loops which are mirror-images of each other (just like the wings of a butterfly are mirror-images of each other!), and that they both pass through the center of the knot together (i.e. in the same direction). This makes the Alpine Butterfly Bend very easy to remember how to tie properly, unlike the other three bends. The Alpine Butterfly Bend can also be tied using one of the methods for tying the Alpine Butterfly loop, which makes both of these forms of the Alpine Butterfly easy to remember. In addition, Budworth says that the Alpine Butterfly can be pulled in two or three directions at once without distorting or capsizing, and that you can isolate a damaged section of rope by


Bends

tying an Alpine Butterfly around it, both of which indicate that the Alpine Butterfly Bend is strong and secure. Furthermore, Toss says that the Alpine Butterfly Bend is the strongest of the series of bends in his book, and that it neither slips nor jams, and that it is on a par with the Ashley Bend, which survived 100 pulls in Ashley's testing.


The purpose of this series of articles is to try to boil the thousands of knots down to just a few of the best rope and string knots that can safely be used for a wide variety of purposes. People such as climbers, sailors, search-and-rescue workers, etc., have their preferred bends, but for the average person it is probably "overkill" to try to learn and remember lots of different ways of tying two ends of rope or string together. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one or two strong bends which you can remember easily, and my preferences are the Fisherman's Knot for rope or string of similar thickness which will not hold a heavy load, or the more secure Alpine Butterfly Bend for ropes of the same or different thicknesses. If you are an "average person" who doesn't need specialized knots (such as the kind that climbers, sailors, and so on, might need), then the Alpine Butterfly family of knots (single-loop, double-loop, triple-loop, and bends) should serve you well in a variety of situations.

For other people's preferred knots, see the topic called "Best of breed" knots? at the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers.

Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends (this page) ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots



Bends

Consider visiting some of my other websites!

You'll find a Christian ministry with dozens and dozens of articles and answers to many questions that I have received over the years (please feel free to send me your questions and prayer requests!); plus a collection of some of the best self-working card tricks around (no sleight-of-hand required!); plus a bunch of amazing/funny/fascinating/interesting videos from around the Web which are all clean and family-friendly; plus lots of reviews of numerous fun and educational (and free!) computer games that you can download; plus a huge collection of cool science tricks and other fun stuff to try (using things around the house), and more!

For a complete list, go to http://www.Layhands.com/DaveRootsWebsites.htm.

Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Bends" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_Bends.htm


11/17/2006: Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites."10/17/2005: Added the ABOK # to the list of names for each knot (based on Clifford Ashley's The

Ashley Book Of Knots). Added the ability to download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file.

09/30/2005: Added some clarifications to point out that interlocked loops are not really bends.01/26/2005: Added another way to tie an Alpine Butterfly Bend. Special thanks to my 10-year-old son

Michael for lending a hand!01/13/2005: Enhanced the descriptions of the Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Carrick Bend, the Double

Sheet Bend, the Figure-Eight Bend, the Hunter's Bend, and the Zeppelin Bend. Added the Ashley Bend. Added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning ways of "locking" a Bowline to make it more secure. Added some cautions concerning the Double Dragon Bend and the Fisherman's Knot because they can jam and become difficult to untie. Changed my preferred bends to the Fisherman's Knot and the Alpine Butterfly Bend, and added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers in which other people have described their preferred knots.


http://www.layhands.com/DaveRootsWebsites.htm

Bends

07/14/2004: Added new pictures of the Double Fisherman's Knot, the Figure-Eight Bend, the Fisherman's Knot, and the Ring Knot.

07/09/2004: Added a comment that the Overhand Bend might have some benefits over other bends for climbers.

05/04/2004: Added the Hunter's Bend and a variation of an Alpine Butterfly Bend.04/15/2004: Added two variations of the Double Dragon knot.12/10/2002: New article.





Decorative Knots


Decorative Knots


Site Map



● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots (this page)

file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Decorative.htm (1 of 18) [3/12/2010 9:38:30 AM]


Decorative Knots

Decorative Knots

Knots can be attractive and decorative in addition to being useful. This article describes several decorative knots which were chosen for their symmetric and attractive qualities, as well as for their ease of tying. There are many other decorative knots, but they can be quite complex to tie (in other words, I didn't include them here because I haven't yet figured out how to tie them properly!).

Here is a small selection of the many websites which contain pictures of fancy knots:

● Alaska Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots by Bos'n Reilly ● Alaska Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Star Knots ● Alaska Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Turk's Head Knots ● Knot Gallery - The Work of IGKT Members ● Knot Heads Gallery ● The Knot Shoppe - Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots from Australia ● The Knot Shoppe - Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots from the Netherlands ● The Knot Shoppe - Museum of Fancy Knots ~ Fancy Knots from Texas ● Knotwork

Just for fun (and possibly for practical purposes as well), try your hand at these decorative knots:

1. Blimp Knot This can be used as a decorative "stopper knot" or "pull knot" at the end of a rope or string. To tie this knot, start with an Overhand Knot (picture 1), then follow the rest of the pictures.

-1 -2 -3

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Budworth calls this a "Blimp Knot" because it is similar to a Zeppelin Bend but is smaller and softer, and he says, "This is a nicely symmetrical ornamentation for an otherwise uninteresting length of cord." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.34).


http://knotical-arts.com/bosnreilly.html

http://knotical-arts.com/starknot.html

http://knotical-arts.com/turkshead.html

http://www.igkt.net/galleries/index.html

http://www.khww.net/

http://knotical-arts.com/aussie.html

http://knotical-arts.com/knoope.html

http://knotical-arts.com/texas.html

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lasse_carenvall/album?.dir=/accc&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lasse_carenvall/

Decorative Knots

2. Braid Knot This can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a "friendship braid," or as a decorative handle, and so on. To tie this knot, start by looping the rope around twice in order to create three strands to work with (picture 1). Begin "braiding" the three strands (just like braiding hair) by bringing the bottom strand over the center strand, then bringing the top strand over the new center strand (picture 2). Continue alternating in this way (picture 3) until you have braided as far as you can go (picture 4). As you are braiding the rope, the end of the rope will become twisted and tangled (which is starting to happen in picture 2). Simply pull the end of the rope out of the tangle periodically (picture 3) to keep it untangled.

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Budworth says, "It shortens and adds attractive bulk to a light pull, waist-tie, friendship braid, or whatever. In thicker material it creates a superb makeshift handle for a travelling case." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.35)


Decorative Knots

3. Chain Stitch or Chain Plait or Chain Sinnet or ABOK #2868 Like the Braid Knot, this can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a "friendship braid," or as a decorative handle, and so on. To tie this knot, start somewhere in the middle of the rope by tying a Slip Knot (picture 1). Push a bight from the end of the rope through the loop of the Slip Knot (picture 2), and continue pushing a new bight through each previous bight, working your way towards the end of the rope. Push the end of the rope through the final bight in order to "lock" the Chain Stitch (picture 3). To untie this knot, simply remove the end of the rope from the final bight, then pull both ends of the rope apart from each other. This will untie all of the Slip Knots. Kids love this one because all of the knots seem to "magically" disappear at once when both ends are pulled!

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4. Chinese Button or ABOK #600 This was the knot which Chinese tailors traditionally used as buttons on dresses, jackets, night attire, and so on (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.64). To tie this knot, lay out the rope on a table and follow the over and under sequence exactly as in the pictures. It looks complicated, but just take it step by step. Picture 4 is identical to picture 3, but with blue lines to indicate more clearly which parts of the rope are crossing over other parts of the rope. After you tie the knot as in picture 3, slowly and carefully tighten the knot and work it into a button shape (picture 5).


Decorative Knots

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Budworth says that "Like so many fancy knots, this is a pleasure simply to make for its own sake, but it does create a basic button suitable for any occasion." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.63)

5. Dragonfly To tie a Dragonfly, start as in picture 1 (I added some beads for eyes, but they're not necessary). This creates two bights pointing upward, and a downward-pointing bight in the middle. Bring the right-most end of string across on top of the downward-pointing bight, then pass it under the end of string on the left (picture 2). Bring the left-most end of string under the downward-pointing bight, then pass it through the loop on the right (picture 3). The end of string which is now on the left is the one that passed over on top of the downward-pointing bight, and it will always pass over on top of the downward-pointing bight as you tie the Dragonfly. Essentially you will be tying Reef Knots all the way down, similar to the Portuguese Sinnet. Bring the end on the left (which is green in picture 4) over on top of the downward bight (picture 4), then bring the other end (which is red in picture 5) over on top of the green string, then under the downward bight, then through the green loop on the left (picture 5). Notice in picture 5 that you have tied a Reef Knot. Tighten the Reef Knot and draw it up towards the beads in order to form the Dragonfly's head (picture 6). Tie another Reef Knot (pictures 7 and 8), remembering that the green string always passes over on top of the downward bight. Tighten the Reef Knot and draw it up towards the Dragonfly's head, then form the wings (picture 9). Tie another Reef Knot (picture 10), remembering that the green string always passes over on top of the downward bight. Tighten the Reef Knot and draw it up towards the Dragonfly's head, then tie another Reef Knot (picture 11). At this point you might want to tie a couple more Reef Knots in order to create some separation between the two sets of wings, but I didn't do this in the pictures. Tighten the Reef Knot(s) and draw


Decorative Knots

them up towards the head, then form a smaller pair of wings (picture 12). At this point you can continue to tie Reef Knots all the way down the Dragonfly's body, or you can simply make a few more Reef Knots and then leave the rest of the downward bight as the Dragonfly's body (pictures 13 and 14). To finish off the Dragonfly, cut the ends of string and then glue them behind the Dragonfly.

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Decorative Knots

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6. Good Luck Knot or Shamrock Knot or ABOK #2436 This is a very attractive knot which seems complicated at first, but it is actually not very difficult to tie. It is similar to the Triple Crown Knot.

To tie this knot, first lay out the rope on a table as in picture 1 so that there are three bights pointing North, West, and East. The two ends of the rope are pointing South. It is helpful to place an object such


Decorative Knots

as a screwdriver across the two ends of the rope (as in picture 2), then bring the two ends of the rope up and over the East-pointing bight so that the ends of rope are now pointing North (picture 2). Bring the East-pointing bight over to the left so that it is now pointing West (picture 3). Bring the North-pointing bight over and down so that it is now pointing South, and tuck it under the screwdriver (picture 4). Bring the West-pointing bight over to the right and tuck it through exactly where the screwdriver is laying, then remove the screwdriver (picture 5). Carefully pull the ends of the rope and the three bights in order to tighten the knot at the center (picture 6). Place the screwdriver across the ends of the rope again, then bring the ends of the rope over and down so that they are pointing South (picture 7). Repeat the procedure for the three bights as before (first with the East-pointing bight, then with the South-pointing bight, then tuck the West-pointing bight through where the screwdriver is, then remove the screwdriver) (picture 8). Turn the knot over and notice that the back side has four extra strands of rope which do not appear on the front side of the knot (compare pictures 8 and 9). Pull those four extra strands of rope out slightly so that they form four small loops (picture 10). Finish tightening the knot (picture 11).

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Decorative Knots

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Budworth says, "Embellish a gift-wrapped parcel with this knot, hang it around your neck (or give one to a friend) or on your front door during any festive season, or use it as a complex of belt loops for keys or tools." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.46)

7. Jug Sling Hitch or ABOK #1142 This decorative knot is useful for creating a carrying handle (or a hanging handle, etc.) for bottles, bags, and so on. To tie this knot, start as in picture 1. Grab the vertical strand of rope on the left (near the top), and bring it under the vertical strand on the right, then bend it back over towards the left again (picture 2). Notice the part of the rope which crosses over the two vertical strands in picture 1, and find that same section of rope in picture 2 (it is marked with a blue circle in picture 2). Bring that strand under the strand above it (marked with a red square in picture 2), then bring it over the two linked loops at the top of picture 2 (as in picture 3). With your thumb and finger, hold the two strands which are crossing each other where the red arrow is pointing in picture 3. Bring the pink and black sections of rope in picture 3 down to their new positions in picture 4. Place the neck of the bottle through the center of the knot, then tighten the knot (picture 5).


Decorative Knots

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8. Knife Lanyard or ABOK #787 This makes an attractive lanyard knot. To tie this knot, first lay out the rope on a table and form a bight facing to the left (which will become the loop for this lanyard knot), then form a small loop with the upper end of the rope (picture 1). In pictures 2 and 3, take the bottom end of the rope and then form a Carrick Bend. After you complete the Carrick Bend, look closely to make sure that the rope is crossing under and over in an exactly alternating pattern. Pictures 6, 7, and 8 are identical to pictures 3, 4, and 5, but with blue lines to indicate more clearly which parts of the rope are crossing over other parts of the rope. In picture 4, take the end of the rope which is pointing to the South-West and bring it up and over the knot, then bring it through the center of the Carrick Bend (from behind). In picture 5, take the end of the rope which is pointing to the North-East, bring it under the other end of the rope, then over the original bight (the one which will become the main loop), then bring it under the Carrick Bend and through the center of the Carrick Bend (from behind). Now both ends of the rope are coming out of the center of the Carrick Bend from behind. Carefully tighten the knot into a symmetrical shape as in picture 9. To use this as a lanyard knot, slide the loop through a key ring, knife ring, etc. (picture 9), then pass the loop over the object (the key, knife, etc.) and pull the knot tight (picture 10). This forms a Lark's Head Hitch (Cow Hitch) around the ring. If the object is too big to pass the loop of rope around


Decorative Knots

it, then in picture 9 you can pass both ends of the rope through the loop in the rope. This will also form the Lark's Head Hitch (Cow Hitch) around the ring.

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Budworth says, "Originally used to form the loop of a neck lanyard that actually did have a seaman's


Decorative Knots

knife suspended from it. This knot will do for anything requiring a fixed loop in a middled strand." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.48)

9. Monkey's Fist or ABOK #2202 This is a decorative knot which is often asked about, and it has a practical purpose as a way to add weight to the end of a rope for throwing it to someone else (as in heaving a line from one boat to another). My Monkey's Fists never seem to come out very well, so here are some pictures of how to tie this knot at the International Guild of Knot Tyers: http://www.igkt.net/beginners/monkeys-fist.html.

10. Portuguese Sinnet or Solomon Bar or ABOK #2496 Like the Braid Knot and the Chain Stitch, the Portuguese Sinnet can be used as a decorative "pull" at the end of a rope or string, or as a fancy handle, and so on. To tie this knot, I like to begin with a Slip Knot in a doubled rope (picture 1). Tighten the knot, leaving just a small portion of the two loops sticking out to the right (picture 2). Make sure that the ends of the rope are the same length, and they should be about three times the length of the big loop which is pointing to the left in picture 2 (you'll get a better feel for this as you practice a few times). The big loop which is pointing to the left in picture 2 will be the "core" of the Portuguese Sinnet, so the finished Portuguese Sinnet will be the same length as the big loop. With the two ends of the rope, tie an Overhand Knot around the big loop as in picture 3, then tie another Overhand Knot so that you have tied a Reef Knot around the two strands of the big loop (picture 4). In picture 4, notice that the end of the rope which is at the bottom of the picture is always on top of the two strands of the big loop, and the other end of the rope is always on the bottom of the two strands of the big loop. Keep this order as you tie Overhand Knots all the way down the length of the big loop (picture 5). When the ends of the rope are almost used up, my way of locking the end of the Portuguese Sinnet is to pass both ends of the rope through the remaining portion of the big loop (from opposite directions), then tighten the big loop (to lock the ends of the rope) by pulling the big loop from the other end (where you had tied the Slip Knot) so that you end up with two loops at the "top" of the Portuguese Sinnet (picture 6).

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http://www.igkt.net/beginners/monkeys-fist.html

Decorative Knots

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This method creates a flat version of the Portuguese Sinnet. If you tie Granny Knots instead of Reef Knots (picture 1 below) then you will end up with a fancy twisted version of the Portuguese Sinnet (picture 2).

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Decorative Knots

11. Square Knot or ABOK #1032 Many people refer to the Reef Knot as the Square Knot, but this is the "real" Square Knot. First make two small bights (curves) as in picture 1. The lower bight points to the left and the upper bight points to the right, then the main part of the rope curves up and around and then down. Bring the main part of the rope under the upper part of the upper bight, then completely on top of the lower bight (picture 2). Then bring the main part of the rope up and under both bights (picture 3), then bring it downwards over the upper bight and pass it under the lower part of the lower bight (picture 3). Dress and set the knot (picture 4).

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12. Turk's Head Knots or ABOK #1306 Turk's Head knots are popular for decorative as well as practical purposes. Turk's Heads are described in terms of the number of "Bights" (the "bends" along the outer edges) and "Leads" (the sets of criss-crossing strands) that they contain. If you don't have enough Bights (B) around an object then the knot will appear stretched out or elongated, and if you have too many Bights then you won't be able to properly tighten the knot around the object. The number of Leads (L) will determine how wide your knot will be.

To tie a 4Lx3B Turk's Head as a flat "mat," first form the shape in picture 1. Now bring the working end of the rope (i.e. the main part of the rope) back towards the right so that it passes entirely under the loop on the left (picture 2). Bring the working end of the rope back towards the left so that it weaves through the strands of rope in an over-under-over-under-over pattern, then curve it back towards the other end of the rope (picture 3). You have now created a "one-ply" 4Lx3B Turk's Head knot. To make a "two-ply" knot, simply rethread the entire knot with the working end of the rope, precisely following the original path (picture 4). This creates a "doubled" 4Lx3B Turk's Head mat, and you can make it as loose (with large gaps where the green is showing through in picture 4) or as tight (with little or no gaps) as you desire. If you have enough rope then you can thread the working end through the knot again to make a "three-ply" knot, and so on.


Decorative Knots

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Turk's Head knots are often tied around cylindrical objects. To tie a 4Lx3B Turk's Head around a post of some kind, first tie a basic Overhand Knot around the object (picture 1 below). Bring the working end of the rope behind the object (to the left of the Overhand Knot) and around to the front at the bottom of the object, then thread it through the Overhand Knot as in picture 2. Bring the working end back towards the left, over the first strand and under the second strand (picture 3). Now bring the working end behind the object (to the left of the knot) and around to the front at the bottom again, then thread it over-under-over as in picture 4. Now bring the working end behind the object (to the right of the knot) and around to the front at the bottom, and you have completed a one-ply 4Lx3B Turk's Head. If you thread the working end of the rope through the knot again, precisely following the original path, then tighten carefully, you will have a two-ply 4Lx3B Turk's Head (picture 5).

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Decorative Knots

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To tie a 3Lx5B Turk's Head as a flat mat, first form the shape in picture 1. Now bring the working end of the rope back towards the right so that it weaves through the strands of rope in an over-under-over pattern (picture 2). Bring the working end back towards the left and down so that it weaves through the strands of rope in an under-over-under-over pattern, then curve it up towards the other end of the rope (picture 3). You now have a one-ply 3Lx5B Turk's Head mat. To make a two-ply mat, simply rethread the entire knot with the working end of the rope, precisely following the original path (picture 4). This creates a "doubled" 3Lx5B Turk's Head mat, and you can make it as loose (with large gaps where the green is showing through in picture 4) or as tight (with little or no gaps) as you desire. If you have enough rope then you can thread the working end through the knot again to make a three-ply knot, and so on. If you wish, you can pass an object through the center of the 3Lx5B mat, then tighten the knot carefully (picture 5).

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Here are several websites with more information on Turk's Head knots:

�❍ Turkse Knoop / Turks Head


http://members.chello.nl/a.vandersalm/knots8.htm

Decorative Knots

�❍ Turks Heads and Mats �❍ Woggles, Turk's Head Knots, and Other Single-Strand Braids

Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots (this page)




Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Decorative Knots" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_Decorative.htm


http://mywebpage.netscape.com/Tejay480/images/home.html

http://members.aol.com/standcmr/braid.html


Decorative Knots


11/17/2006: Modified the description of how to tie the Jug Sling Hitch. Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites."

10/17/2005: Added the ABOK # to the list of names for each knot (based on Clifford Ashley's The Ashley Book Of Knots). Added the ability to download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file.

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article. Added the Dragonfly. Added the Square Knot.

05/18/2004: Added some Turk's Head knots and modified my description of how to tie the Jug Sling Hitch.05/10/2004: Added the Jug Sling Hitch and the Portuguese Sinnet.05/04/2004: New article.





Double-Loop Knots


Double-Loop Knots


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file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_DoubleLoops.htm (1 of 17) [3/12/2010 9:38:32 AM]


Double-Loop Knots

Double-Loop Knots

Two loops are often more secure than a single loop (because they provide a double hold on an object), especially when hoisting or lowering an injured person or a large or heavy object. When lifting or lowering a person, a double-loop knot can be used as a sling.

If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use, and how to tie it properly, when you need a double-loop knot. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one strong knot which you can remember easily. My preference is the Double Alpine Butterfly, for reasons which I'll describe throughout this article.


1. ABOK #1100 (Double Splayed Loop in the Bight) Clifford Ashley referred to this as a double splayed loop in the bight, and it is listed as #1100 in The Ashley Book of Knots (hence the name "ABOK #1100"). To tie this knot, start with a loose Alpine Butterfly (picture 1). Notice in picture 1 that there is a tall loop sticking straight up the middle, and there are two other loops on the sides of the tall vertical loop. Bring those two loops through the tall vertical loop (picture 2). Bring the tall vertical loop toward you and down so that it lays below the rest of the knot (picture 3). Carefully dress and set the knot (picture 4).

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Double-Loop Knots

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In The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (p.59), Brion Toss says that "This knot (Figure 3-17) is a little tricky to tie, but its splayed loops make it preferable to the Bowline on the Bight for some slinging applications (ladders, pallets) and for sitting in. Either knot is good as an emergency bosun's chair."

For the average person who only wants to learn one strong double-loop knot, my choice would be the Double Alpine Butterfly.

2. Birmingham Bowline This variation of the basic Bowline creates two (or more) loops. To tie the Birmingham Bowline, first tie a basic Bowline (picture 1) and then continue around to tie a second Bowline (picture 2). Dress and set the knot (picture 3).

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Double-Loop Knots

If you are familiar with the basic Bowline then the Birmingham Bowline is easy to remember how to tie, it is fairly easy to tie, it is fairly easy to dress, and it is easy to untie after it has held a load. Also, it is versatile because it can either be tied before the loops are put to use, or else you can pass the end of the rope around an object as you create the knot. One disadvantage of this knot is that it can't be tied in the middle of a rope (when you don't have access to the ends of the rope).

I haven't been able to find any strength ratings for this knot, but if you absolutely need to pass the rope around an object while tying a double-loop knot then this might be a knot to consider.

However, for the average person who only wants to learn one strong double-loop knot, my choice would be the Double Alpine Butterfly.

3. Bowline on the Bight or ABOK #1080 This is another double-loop variation of the basic Bowline. To tie this knot, create a small loop in a doubled rope (similar to a basic Bowline), and bring the end of the doubled rope up through the small loop (picture 1). This creates two big loops which hang below the knot (where the basic Bowline has only one big loop). Now open up the end of the doubled rope and bring it down and around over the two main loops (picture 2), and then continue bringing it up above the small initial loop (picture 3). Dress and set the knot (picture 4). Now it looks like a Double-Knotted Bowline but with two loops instead of only one.

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If you know how to tie the basic Bowline then the Bowline on the Bight is fairly easy to remember once you get the hang of it. It is easy to tie and easy to dress, it is easy to untie after it has held a load, and the two loops can be re-sized fairly easily. It is generally considered to have the same strength rating as the basic Bowline.


Double-Loop Knots

Ashley says that "It is the knot generally used at sea for lowering an injured man from aloft." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.194, #1080). As Ashley points out, this knot has a long track record of use in rescue situations, so it is considered by many sailors and rescue workers to be a strong enough knot to be used when lives are at stake. One potential disadvantage of the Bowline on the Bight is that you can't pass the end of the rope around an object while tying the knot, but this might not be something that you would need to do very often. Ashley also points out that the pull on the two ends should be approximately parallel, which is a potential disadvantage that the Double Alpine Butterfly does not have.

According to Budworth, "all sailors sooner or later are faced with some urgent improvisation. This is one such knot, which can be used for lowering an injured person and other emergencies. One leg is put through each loop and the patient (if conscious and capable) holds tight onto the rope at chest level, or is somehow secured to it. It reduces the strength of the line in which it is tied by up to 40%." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.38).

In The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, Brion Toss says that the Bowline on a Bight "is not entirely dependable when the strain comes on one part only or when the two standing parts are pulled in opposite directions. In the former instance, make a Bowline on a Bight with a Bowline on it [i.e. tie off the end of the rope with a Bowline, somewhere above the knot formed by the Bowline on a Bight] (Figure 3-14B). In the latter instance try a different knot such as the Farmer's Loop (Figure 3-15) or the Butterfly Knot (Figure 3-16)." (p.58, brackets added).


4. Double Alpine Butterfly This is now my favorite method for tying a multi-loop Alpine Butterfly. Start by wrapping the rope several times around your hand so that you have four strands of rope laying on the palm of your hand (picture 1 below). The two strands in the middle (strands 2 and 3) will become the loops, so make them as big as they need to be (as in picture 1). Grab the left-most strand (#1 in picture 1) and bring it all the way to the right over all of the other strands (pictures 1 and 2). Now grab the two left-most strands (#2 and #3 in picture 3) and bring them all the way to the right over all of the other strands (pictures 3 and 4). After bringing strands 2 and 3 over the other strands, push those two back to the left under the other strands (picture 5). Dress the knot as in picture 6. If you pull the two ends in opposite directions then the knot will form itself into the configuration which is more familiar to many people (picture 7).


Double-Loop Knots

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The Double Alpine Butterfly seems to have all of the advantages and disadvantages of the Alpine Butterfly, except that it can't easily be made in such a way that you are able to pass the two main loops around an object while you are tying the knot. However, this might not be something that you would need to do very often.


5. Double Double Dragon


Double-Loop Knots

This is my variation of the Double Dragon which turns it into a double-loop knot. First begin tying the normal Double Dragon as in pictures 1 and 2. Then push two bights through the small loop on the right (instead of just one, as in the single-loop Double Dragon) (picture 3). Essentially you are creating a "slipped" Double Dragon (for more on a "slipped" knot, see the Slip Knot). At this point I find that it is helpful to tighten the knot a bit before continuing (picture 4). Now take the small loop which is sticking out to the left in picture 4 and bring it to the right and over the two main loops until it is behind the two main loops (picture 5), which is similar to the way that the Bowline on the Bight and the Double Alpine Butterfly and the Double Figure-Eight Loop are formed. Bring that loop all the way around until it lays below the knot (picture 6). You can now easily change the sizes of the loops, then finish dressing and setting the knot (picture 7).

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The basic single-loop Double Dragon (picture 8 above) can easily be converted into a double-loop Double Dragon simply by loosening the knot and then pushing the tip of the main loop through the loosened knot until it looks like picture 3 above. Then follow the remaining pictures (above) to complete the Double Double Dragon.


Double-Loop Knots

Method #2 Here is an alternate way to tie the Double Double Dragon which allows you to create two or more loops around an object while you tie the knot (rather than after you tie the knot as with the method above). Begin by tying the first few steps of the single-loop Double Dragon until you reach a configuration similar to picture 1 (below). You now have a bight of rope laying across your fingers with a strand of rope coming through it. Pass the end of the rope into the bight, then over the top and around the bight, then back out of the bight again as in picture 2. Notice in picture 2 that you have tied a Reef Knot. Now you simply finish tying a single-loop Double Dragon in the normal way by passing the end of the rope around the object (creating a second loop around the object), then passing the end of the rope into the bight and around your fingers until it lays over the tops of the two strands of rope on your fingers (picture 3). Wrap the end of the rope twice around the two strands of rope on top of your fingers and then tighten the knot, just like you would do with the single-loop Double Dragon (picture 4). In picture 4, pull out the strand of rope which you created in picture 2, and use it to adjust the relative sizes of the two loops which have been passed around the object, then finish dressing and setting the knot (picture 5).

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To make three or more loops, tie the knot until you finish picture 2, then pass the end of the rope around the object (to make the second loop around the object). Now follow picture 2 again to pass the end of the rope into the bight, then over the top and around the bight, then back out of the bight again, then pass the end of the rope around the object for the third time, and so on. To


Double-Loop Knots

see a picture of the finished triple-loop knot, see the Triple Double Dragon.

The Double Double Dragon seems to have all of the advantages and disadvantages of the single-loop Double Dragon.


6. Double Figure-Eight Loop or ABOK #1085 To tie this knot, you essentially start with a "slipped" Figure-Eight Loop (pictures 1 and 2), which creates two loops where there would normally have been only one loop (for more on a "slipped" knot, see the Slip Knot). Then you slightly open up the end of the doubled rope which is sticking up at the top in picture 2 and pass it all the way around the two main loops and over the knot, as in pictures 3, 4, 5, and 6 (this is similar to the way that the Bowline on the Bight and the Double Alpine Butterfly and the Double Double Dragon are formed). Dress and set the knot (picture 7). Make sure to dress the knot properly so that all of the strands of rope are parallel to each other and don't cross over each other.

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Double-Loop Knots

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The Double Figure-Eight Loop seems to have all of the advantages and disadvantages of the Figure-Eight Loop, except that it can't easily be made in such a way that you are able to pass the two main loops around an object while you are tying the knot. However, this might not be something that you would need to do very often.


7. French Bowline or Portuguese Bowline or ABOK #1072 This is another variation of the basic Bowline which can create two or more loops.


Double-Loop Knots

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The French Bowline is slightly easier to tie than the Birmingham Bowline, and it seems to have basically the same advantages and disadvantages as the Birmingham Bowline. One disadvantage with the French Bowline is that it is fairly easy for one of the loops to get bigger and the other loop to get smaller. This can potentially pose a hazard when hoisting or lowering people or heavy objects because it might allow the load to shift.

The French Bowline is also called the Portuguese Bowline in some books and websites, but I have seen other websites (such as this one) which describe the Portuguese Bowline slightly differently. Rather than bringing the end of the rope through the small loop in picture 1, you bring the end of the rope on top of the small loop. According to some people, this is the difference between the French and Portuguese Bowlines. I haven't been able to find any strength ratings for the French or Portuguese Bowlines, but they would appear to have a similar strength rating as the basic Bowline because the core knot configuration is the same.


8. Spanish Bowline or ABOK #1087 The Spanish Bowline is not tied in the same manner as the basic Bowline. To tie the Spanish Bowline, first double the rope to create a long bight (an open loop), then bring the end of the bight back behind the main part of the rope to create two loops (picture 1) and give each loop a twist (picture 2). Then take the loop on the left and move it over to the right inside of the loop on the right (picture 3). The "X" (the crossed ropes) in picture 3 is on the outside, on top of the two vertical lines of rope. Picture 3 shows four loops, and you extend the two bottom loops and bring them up and through the two upper loops to form the two main loops (picture 4). Dress and set the knot (picture 5).


http://131.230.57.1/knots/port_bl.htm

Double-Loop Knots

-1 -2 -3

-4 -5

One advantage is that the Spanish Bowline can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends of the rope (unlike the Birmingham Bowline and the French/Portuguese Bowlines). However, it might be possible for the loops to change sizes (posing the same hazard as the French/Portuguese Bowlines), and it can be difficult to remember how to tie this knot when you need it. Somewhere I saw that this knot is not rated very highly, but I have not been able to find that reference. Other than that, I haven't seen any strength ratings for the Spanish Bowline.


9. Triple Crown or Three-Part Crown in the Bight or ABOK #1097 The Triple Crown is a "splayed" double-loop knot similar to the ABOK #1100 double loop and the Spanish Bowline. In other words, the two loops hang apart from each other rather than laying on top of each other. It forms an attractive knot, but it takes a little practice to tie the knot properly.


Double-Loop Knots

-1 -2

-3 -4

-5

One advantage with the Triple Crown is that it can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends of the rope (unlike the Birmingham Bowline and the French/Portuguese Bowlines). Additionally, the loops can't easily grow or shrink accidentally, so this knot is safer in that respect than the French/Portuguese Bowlines or the Spanish Bowline. However, it might be


Double-Loop Knots

difficult to remember how to tie this knot when you need it.

I have not been able to find any strength ratings for the Triple Crown.


Summary

I haven't seen anything written about the strength and security of the Birmingham Bowline or the French (Portuguese) Bowline, but they have an advantage in that the rope can easily be passed around an object while tying the knot. They have another potential advantage in that you can easily create any number of loops with these knots. One disadvantage is that these knots cannot be tied in the middle of a rope (when you don't have access to the ends of the rope). Another potential disadvantage with the French/Portuguese Bowline is that some of the loops might accidentally change size, which can allow the load to shift dangerously.

With the Spanish Bowline, the rope can pass fairly easily between the two loops. This can be hazardous if it allows a heavy load to shift while being hoisted, lowered, or towed. In addition, the Spanish Bowline can be difficult to remember how to tie if you don't use it very often.

The Triple Crown is an attractive knot with splayed loops (in other words, the two loops don't lay on top of each other). However, not much is written about this knot and so I can't tell what kind of track record it has.

The Bowline on the Bight has a long track record as a rescue harness, and many lives have been safely entrusted to this knot. If you know how to tie the basic Bowline properly then this is a fairly easy knot to remember how to tie, it is quick and easy to tie and dress (more so than the Double Figure-Eight Loop), and it can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends of the rope. It is also easy to untie after it has held a load. Its strength rating is generally regarded as being 10-15% less than the Double Alpine Butterfly or the Double Figure-Eight Loop, but again, it has a long track record of safely being used in rescue situations.

The Double Figure-Eight Loop is preferred by many climbers rather than the Bowline on the Bight, although it seems that climbers sometimes use the Double Figure-Eight Loop in some situations and the Bowline on the Bight in other situations. The Double Figure-Eight Loop is generally considered to be strong and secure, and in my experience it is easier to untie than the basic Figure-Eight Loop.

The Double Dragon seems to rival the Alpine Butterfly in many ways, and the same seems to be true for the Double Double Dragon. It is easy to tie, and it is also easy to convert a single-loop Double Dragon to


Double-Loop Knots

a double-loop Double Dragon (and a double-loop Double Dragon to a triple-loop Double Dragon). The Double Double Dragon can be tied before using the two loops, or the two loops can be tied around an object while the knot is being tied. However, it appears that it can jam and be difficult to untie if both ends of the rope have been under a strain.

ABOK #1100 is Ashley's splayed double loop based on the Alpine Butterfly. For certain applications, people sometimes prefer using splayed loops rather than loops which lay on top of each other.

The Double Alpine Butterfly does not seem to be widely known. It seems to have the same basic strength rating as the Alpine Butterfly (the core knot configuration is the same), and it is easy to tie and untie.


The purpose of this series of articles is to try to boil the thousands of knots down to just a few of the best rope and string knots that can safely be used for a wide variety of purposes. People such as climbers, sailors, search-and-rescue workers, etc., have their preferred knots, but for the average person it is probably "overkill" to try to learn and remember a variety of double-loop knots. Just as the Alpine Butterfly is my preferred single-loop knot, the Double Alpine Butterfly is my preferred double-loop knot. Sticking with the same basic knot (such as the Alpine Butterfly) makes it easier to remember how to tie a single-loop knot or a double-loop knot when you need them. If you are an "average person" who doesn't need specialized knots (such as the kind that climbers, sailors, and so on, might need), then the Alpine Butterfly family of knots (single-loop, double-loop, triple-loop, and bends) should serve you well in a variety of situations.


Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots (this page)



Double-Loop Knots

● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots




Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Double-Loop Knots" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_DoubleLoops.htm




01/29/2005: Added a new method for tying a Double Alpine Butterfly. Special thanks to my 10-year-old son Michael for lending a hand!



Double-Loop Knots

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article. Added ABOK #1100 (Ashley's double loop based on the Alpine Butterfly). Changed my preferred double-loop knot to the Double Alpine Butterfly, and added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers in which other people have described their preferred knots.

05/10/2004: Added a new method of tying the Double Double Dragon (and other multi-loop versions of the Double Dragon).

04/15/2004: Added a new knot called the Double Double Dragon.09/01/2003: Added new pictures of the Double Alpine Butterfly.12/10/2002: New article.





Hitches


Hitches


Site Map



● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches (this page) ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots

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Hitches

Hitches

A "hitch" is often defined as a knot which is used when tying a rope to something. However, a stricter definition is that a hitch has the ability to conform to the size of the object to which it is tied.

If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use, and how to tie it properly, when you need to tie a rope to something. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one or two strong hitches which you can remember easily. My preference is the Adjustable Grip Hitch, for reasons which I'll describe throughout this article. For some "specialty" hitches, see the Miscellaneous Knots section.


1. Adjustable Grip Hitch This is a quick, easy, secure, and versatile hitch.

-1 -2 -3

This knot is about as easy to tie as most hitches, but it grips better than many hitches. The beauty of this knot, and several other knots on this page, is that you can slide it up or down the rope (in order to tighten a tent rope, for example) and it will continue to grip wherever it is moved. The Tarbuck Knot and the Tautline Hitch (Midshipman's Hitch) are also good slide-and-grip knots, but in my experience they are not as easy to dress and set as the Adjustable Grip Hitch, and they don't seem to grip as well.

According to Budworth, "This practical slide-and-grip knot can be grasped and shifted easily by


Hitches

hand in either direction but locks up firmly under load. After the load is removed, the knot may be slid along the rope again. The momentum of a fall will cause the knot to slide and so absorb energy. ... Later tests involving 5.5-mm (1/4-in) Kevlar indicated that, when used as adjustable bends, these knots grip (i.e., do not slip) and break at around 80% of the absolute rupture load of the material used. This figure may be an underestimate." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.95).

To make it easier to untie, I prefer to "slip" the knot. In other words, instead of passing the end of the rope through the knot when completing the knot, I often push a bight (a doubled rope) through instead. For more on "slipping" a knot, see the Slip Knot.

If you don't tie knots in rope very often then one general-purpose hitch such as the Adjustable Grip Hitch might be the only hitch you'll need for a wide variety of purposes.

2. Back Hand Hitch or ABOK #1725 The Back Hand Hitch is an easy way to pass a rope once around an object and yet create two loops for a double hold on the object.

-1 -2 -3 -4

This is an easy way to form a double loop around an object for extra security. However, the drawback is that if it is not drawn up snugly then it might create a lot of friction where the rope rubs against itself, which can damage and weaken the rope. Also see the Axle Hitch.


3. Buntline Hitch or ABOK #1711 This is essentially a reversed Two Half Hitches.


Hitches

-1 -2

Since the second Half Hitch is jammed inside of the first Half Hitch, this is a more secure hitch than Two Half Hitches. However, it can be difficult to untie unless it is "slipped" (for an example of "slipping" a knot, see the Slip Knot).


4. Clove Hitch or ABOK #1178 The Clove Hitch is a popular hitch that is easy to tie, but it is not considered to be as reliable as some of the other hitches. This is essentially Two Half Hitches tied around an object.

-1 -2

According to Budworth, "If pulled around, the clove hitch can work loose. Perversely, it can also jam when wet. Its breaking strength is variously quoted as between 60% and 75%." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.48).



Hitches

5. Constrictor Knot or ABOK #1189 The Constrictor Knot is often considered to be the best and most secure of all of the binding type of knots. Budworth says that "This is the best of all binding knots." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.136).

To tie this knot, start with a Clove Hitch as in picture 1, then bring the end of the rope back through the first turn (picture 2). Dress and set the knot (picture 3).

-1 -2 -3

When the Constrictor Knot is tied on a convex surface such as a post, it grips like a boa-constrictor (which is how it got its name). However, it can be very difficult to untie this knot.


6. Fisherman's Bend or Anchor Bend or ABOK #1723 or ABOK #1841 The Fisherman's Bend is actually a hitch, not a bend (a "bend" is a knot which is used to tie two ends of rope together, such as the Fisherman's Knot). Compare this with the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches.


Hitches

-1 -2 -3

According to Budworth, "this knot is misleadingly named. It is actually a strong-ish (70-75%) and secure hitch for wet and slimy conditions." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.53).


7. Highwayman's Hitch This is a quick-release hitch which easily comes apart when you pull the end of the rope. To tie this knot, pass a bight (a doubled rope) around the object (picture 1), then take the main part of the rope and push a bight through the first bight (picture 2). Now take the end of the rope and push a bight through the second bight (picture 3), and tighten the knot (picture 4). When you need to untie the hitch, simply pull the end of the rope and the quick-release knot will completely fall apart.

-1 -2 -3


Hitches

-4

This knot is described in a number of books and websites, but notice how easily it can come apart when you pull on the main part of the rope. Therefore, I don't recommend using this knot.


8. Lark's Head Hitch or Cow Hitch or Lanyard Hitch or ABOK #1673 This is generally considered to be one of the least secure hitches.

The pull needs to come equally from both ends of the rope. If the pull will only come from one end of the rope then pass the other end of the rope through the hitch to secure it. This is often called the Pedigree Cow Hitch:


Hitches

If both ends of the rope are already attached to something then you can create the Lark's Head Hitch by using an object (such as a screwdriver) as a toggle:


9. Pile Hitch or ABOK #1815 If the top of a post is available then you can simply wrap a bight of rope (a doubled rope) around the post and throw the loop over the top of the post.

-1 -2


Hitches


10. Rolling Hitch or Magnus Hitch or ABOK #1681 The Rolling Hitch is similar to the Clove Hitch, but it is considered to be more secure.

-1 -2

-3

According to Budworth, the pull on the rope needs to be in the direction shown in picture 3 (The Complete Book of Knots, p.49).


11. Round Turn and Two Half Hitches or ABOK #1720 This is considered to be a good hitch in most circumstances. Compare this with the Fisherman's Bend.


Hitches

-1 -2 -3

According to Budworth, "The two half-hitches have a breaking strength of 60-75%, but the round turn may increase that percentage." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.52).


12. Sailor's Gripping Hitch This hitch grips well when tied around another rope, or when tied around a smooth (or tapered) surface such as a rod or a spar. First make several round turns as in picture 1, then bring the end of the rope back towards the left over the tops of the round turns (picture 1). Bring the end of the rope down behind the rod, then over on top of the main part of the rope (picture 2). Now bring the end of the rope up behind the rod and over on top of the two strands of rope as in picture 3. Dress and set the knot (picture 4). The pull on the rope should be from the left, as in picture 4.

-1


Hitches

-2 -3

-4


13. Sliding Sheet Bend This slide-and-grip knot is fairly easy to tie, and it has the added feature of being able to be locked into place. In addition, it is an "exploding" knot because when the "ripcord" (the end of the rope) is pulled, the knot will fall completely apart. This knot is described in greater detail, along with several other "exploding" knots, at Six Exploding Knots.

To tie this knot, bring the end of the rope around and under itself to form a loop, then place that loop on top of the main part of the rope (picture 1). Now create a bight of rope in the end of the rope, then push that bight under the main part of the rope and over the other side of the loop, as in picture 2. Dress and set the knot as in picture 3, then slide the knot to the desired position on the main part of the rope. When the knot is in position, hold the knot while pulling the strand of rope which is indicated with a blue arrow in picture 4 (pull the rope in the direction that the arrow is pointing). This will create a "hump" in the main part of the rope, which will lock the knot into place (compare pictures 3 and 4). To unlock the knot in order to slide it up or down the main part of the rope, simply loosen the knot until it looks like picture 3 again.



Hitches

-1 -2

-3 -4


14. Tarbuck Knot This is another slide-and-grip knot. Personally, I find that the Adjustable Grip Hitch grips better and is easier to tie and dress and set than the Tarbuck Knot.

-1 -2 -3

According to Budworth, "There is only one right way to tie this knot but many wrong ways.


Hitches

Work the entire knot snug before use." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.67).


15. Tautline Hitch or Midshipman's Hitch or ABOK #1730 This is another slide-and-grip knot. Personally, I find that the Adjustable Grip Hitch grips better and is easier to tie and dress and set than the Tautline Hitch.

-1 -2 -3


16. Two Half Hitches or ABOK #1710 This is a common hitch which is sometimes used in other hitches such as the Back Hand Hitch, the Clove Hitch, the Constrictor Knot, the Fisherman's Bend, and the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches.

Compare this with the Buntline Hitch.


Hitches

-1 -2


Summary

There are numerous types of hitches which are used by sailors, farmers, climbers, etc., for a variety of purposes. However, if you only want to learn one useful hitch, my preference is the Adjustable Grip Hitch.



Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots



Hitches

● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches (this page) ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots




Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Hitches" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_Hitches.htm




04/24/2005: Added the Sailor's Gripping Hitch.



Hitches

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article. Added a stricter definition of "hitch." Moved the Alpine Butterfly, Bowline, Double Dragon, and Figure-Eight loop knots to the Single-Loop Knots page. Removed the Exploding Dragon because it might be useful in non-critical applications when it is tied properly, but it is too easy for it to be tied improperly and insecurely. Enhanced the descriptions of the Adjustable Grip Hitch, the Back Hand Hitch, the Buntline Hitch, the Clove Hitch, the Fisherman's Bend, the Highwayman's Hitch, the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, and the Two Half Hitches. Changed my preferred hitch to the Adjustable Grip Hitch, and added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers in which other people have described their preferred knots.

07/09/2004: Added the Sliding Sheet Bend.12/10/2002: New article.







Home Page


Introduction

I'm not quite sure what it is, but there is something fascinating about knots! Thousands of knots have been invented over the millennia, and there are multitudes of books and websites entirely devoted to knots (teaching how to tie knots, knot artwork, the mathematics of knots, the history of knots, etc.), and there are computer programs which teach how to tie knots, and there are knot tyers' magazines, newsletters, discussion groups, clubs, associations, guilds, and so on.

But with this overload of information on thousands of knots, how is the average person going to know which knots are the best and safest to use? After all, using the wrong knot, or using a poorly-tied knot, has led to many accidents, injuries, deaths, and destruction of property.

People who use ropes, fishing lines, yarn, etc., in their work or in their recreation (such as sailors, rock climbers, fishermen, weavers, farmers, search-and-rescue workers, and so on) are familiar with various knots that they use frequently. But for the average person who only uses knots occasionally, it is helpful to learn just a few knots which are easy to remember and easy to tie, yet are strong and secure and safe for a wide variety of purposes. By learning a few good knots and practicing them now and then, you will be well prepared for those times when you need to tie secure knots in rope or string.

Background Information

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Every rope has a "breaking strength," which means that if we place a heavy enough strain on a rope then it will eventually break. The Safe Working Load of a rope is generally considered to be one-fifth of the rope's breaking strength, according to BoatSafe.com.

Knots almost always lower the strength of a rope, sometimes by 25%, 50%, or more. At my local hardware store, the highest-rated rope that I found has a Safe Working Load of 450 pounds, but most of the ropes I saw were rated at under 300 pounds. If a rope has a Safe Working Load of 300 pounds, then we might assume that the rope should be okay to use for lifting an injured 200-pound man to safety, right? But if we tie a knot in the rope to help lift the injured man, and if the strength of that knot is rated at 60%, then the Safe Working Load of our rope has suddenly been reduced to 180 pounds (60% of 300 pounds). The injured 200-pound man is now beyond the Safe Working Load of our rope because of the knot that we tied.

Modern ropes used by rock climbers often have a breaking strength of several thousand pounds when they are new, but what about the rope that you bought at the hardware store or the grocery store (which has been sitting around in your garage forever)? What was its Safe Working Load when it was brand new? How old is that rope now, and how much wear and tear has it been through? How much of a load is your rope capable of holding now? And do you know how to tie secure knots that won't slip loose and won't cause your rope to break under a strain or under a series of hard jerks?

Because of these issues, the best type of knot is one which reduces the breaking strength of a rope as little as possible, and is easy to remember how to tie properly, and is secure enough not to come loose, and sometimes it is good if it is easy to untie after being under a heavy load, and so on.

Knot Strength Ratings

Considering the number of people who are trusting their lives to the knots that they tie (such as rock climbers, cavers, search-and-rescue workers, etc.), it is surprisingly difficult to find solid research on the strengths of the main knots that are being used. For some discussions of knot strength ratings, here are some topics at the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers:

● Knot breaking strengths and theories - again

● Article on knot strength

● Knot Testing

Consider that a single number for the strength rating of a knot (such as 60%) cannot realistically tell us how our particular ropes will stand up under the particular weather conditions of the moment (hot and


http://www.boatsafe.com/marlinespike/safeload.htm

http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?PHPSESSID=eb7a68c0dee1989afc0c673c640eb45c&topic=849.0




dry / rainy and wet / freezing cold), or under the particular strain which we are placing on the ropes, and so on. Therefore, it is probably best to interpret the common strength ratings of knots as general guidelines, and also to be guided by the combined experiences of people such as search-and-rescue workers who are trusting their lives and other people's lives to the knots that they use. Obviously different people will have different opinions and preferences, but certain knots tend to emerge as being commonly trusted in life-or-death situations such as rock climbing and rescue operations. If such knots are secure and are trusted when lives are at stake, then it is reasonable that they are likely to be secure and trustworthy for the everyday purposes of the average person.

If you learn how to tie all of the dozens of knots which are described in this series of articles, you will probably find that your brain goes into a cramp trying to decide which knot to use when you need to tie a knot in a rope or string! Therefore, in each category I have tried to boil the information down to just one or two knots, which I personally consider to be "The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know" (hence the name of this website). I'll give the reasons for my choices, but you might find that you prefer different knots than the ones I use.

Basic Terminology

When a rope circles around and then crosses over itself, this is often referred to as a "loop":

A "bight" is essentially an open loop:

After you tie a knot, it is important to "dress" the knot properly. This means making sure that all parts of the knot are in the right place and that the rope doesn't cross itself unnecessarily. Each time a section of rope is sharply bent over something (such as another part of the rope), this can stress and tear some rope fibers. This is why it is important to dress the knot properly, because otherwise you are weakening the



rope without realizing it, and in some cases you might be trusting your life or property to a significantly weaker rope than you had expected. In the pictures below, the first one shows an improperly-dressed knot and the second one shows the same knot which is properly dressed:

Improperly dressed

Properly dressed

Again, if a knot is not properly dressed then it can weaken the rope more than a properly-dressed knot will. Also, the knot should be "set" by being tightened before it is used. Otherwise the knot might "slip" or "spill" or "capsize" and become unstable or fall apart, which can potentially be disastrous.

Knowing the best knot to use and properly tying it and properly dressing it and properly setting it can save your life or save someone else's life, or protect your valuable possessions from damage.

References and Links

There are many people who can be considered experts in knots. In this series of articles I have mainly quoted from two recognized authorities on knots:

1. Clifford Ashley, whose book, The Ashley Book of Knots, contains 3,900 different knots and 7,000 illustrations, and has been called the definitive reference work on knots and "the knot enthusiasts' bible."

2. Geoffrey Budworth, who is one of the co-founders of the International Guild of Knot Tyers (see the link below) and who was responsible for updating and revising The Ashley Book of Knots by Clifford Ashley.


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0385040253/102-9736333-7993737?vi=glance


Here are several websites which provide a lot of information on knots. Every link will open up in a new window to give you more control as you browse around in this website:

● The A-Z of Knots ● Animated Knots ● Fifty Basic Knots ● International Guild of Knot Tyers ● Knots on the Web ● Ropers Knots Page ● Six Exploding Knots

If you have any questions about knots, I would recommend that you visit the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers. There are some very knowledgeable people on that forum who will probably be able to answer your questions.

Site Map


● Home Page (this page) ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots



http://www.scoutingresources.org.uk/knots_az01.html


http://www.folsoms.net/knots/


http://www.earlham.edu/~peters/knotlink.htm

http://www.realknots.com/knots/index.htm


http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?board=1.0





Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Home Page" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots


07/30/2007: Removed a table of knot strengths (which I had found by searching the Web) due to dead links and poor/misleading data. Added links to several discussions of knot strength ratings at the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers.

11/17/2006: Chopped out several paragraphs. Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites."

10/17/2005: Added a new page called "Knots Index." Added the ability to download this entire website (all 9 articles) in a single .ZIP file.

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article, and updated all of the other articles.05/27/2004: Added a link to the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers.05/04/2004: Added a new page called "Decorative Knots." Added pictures of a "loop" and a "bight" in

the Terminology section. Added a link to some interesting "exploding" knots in the "References and Links" section.







Knots Index


Knots Index


Site Map



● Home Page ● Knots Index (this page) ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots

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Knots Index

Knots Index

This is a complete index of all of the knots at this website, and there are two ways to view this information:

1. By ABOK # (based on Clifford Ashley's The Ashley Book Of Knots)

2. By Category: �❍ Single Loops �❍ Double Loops �❍ Triple Loops �❍ Hitches �❍ Bends �❍ Miscellaneous Knots �❍ Decorative Knots

Knots Index by ABOK #If you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the ABOK # in your link.

For example, to create a link to the Axle Hitch (ABOK #162), use the following address: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#162

ABOK # Commonly Known As Picture


Knots Index

162 Axle Hitch

200 Scaffold Hitch

271, 1733

Kelleg Hitch, Killick Hitch, Timber Hitch and Half Hitch

516 Double Overhand Knot


Knots Index

519 Overhand Knot, Thumb Knot

520 Figure Eight Knot

526 Ashley's Stopper Knot, Oysterman's Stopper

529 Slip Knot


Knots Index

600 Chinese Button

787 Knife Lanyard

1009 Overhand Loop

1010 Bowline


Knots Index

1012 Water Bowline

1013 Double Bowline, Double-Knotted Bowline, Round Turn Bowline

1017, 1035

Angler's Loop, Perfection Loop

1024 Bowstring Knot, Honda Knot


Knots Index

1032 Square Knot

1034.5 Cowboy Bowline, Dutch Marine Bowline, Left-Hand Bowline

1035, 1017

Angler's Loop, Perfection Loop


Knots Index

1047 Figure-Eight on a Bight, Figure-Eight Loop, Flemish Loop

1050 Artillery Loop, Harness Loop, Manharness Loop

1053 Alpine Butterfly, Butterfly Loop, Lineman's Loop


Knots Index

1058

Directional Figure-Eight Knot, Inline Figure-Eight Loop, Single Bowline on the Bight

1072 French Bowline, Portuguese Bowline

1080 Bowline on the Bight


Knots Index

1085 Double Figure-Eight Loop

1087 Spanish Bowline

1097 Three-Part Crown in the Bight, Triple Crown


Knots Index

1100 ABOK #1100, Double Splayed Loop in the Bight

1117 Running Bowline

1142 Jug Sling Hitch

1152 Sheep Shank


Knots Index

1178 Clove Hitch

1189 Constrictor Knot

1214 Shoelace Knots

1306 Turk's Head Knots

1402 Reef Knot, Square Knot

1410 Overhand Bend


Knots Index

1411 Figure-Eight Bend, Flemish Bend

1412 Ring Knot, Tape Knot, Water Knot

1414 Fisherman's Knot, True Lover's Knot, Water Knot

1415 Double Fisherman's Knot, Grapevine Knot

1431 Sheet Bend


Knots Index

1434 Double Sheet Bend

1439 Carrick Bend

1452 ABOK #1452, The Ashley Bend

1455 Bowline Bend


Knots Index

1665 Timber Hitch

1673 Cow Hitch, Lark's Head Hitch, Lanyard Hitch

1681 Magnus Hitch, Rolling Hitch

1694, 2168

Bale Sling Hitch, Cow Hitch and Bowline, Strap Hitch


Knots Index

1710 Two Half Hitches

1711 Buntline Hitch

1720 Round Turn and Two Half Hitches


Knots Index

1723, 1841

Anchor Bend, Fisherman's Bend

1730 Midshipman's Hitch, Tautline Hitch

1733, 271

Kelleg Hitch, Killick Hitch, Timber Hitch and Half Hitch

1815 Pile Hitch


Knots Index

1841, 1723

Anchor Bend, Fisherman's Bend

2030 Marlingspike Hitch

2168, 1694

Bale Sling Hitch, Cow Hitch and Bowline, Strap Hitch


Knots Index

2176, 2177

Barrel Hitch

2202 Monkey's Fist

2436 Good Luck Knot, Shamrock Knot

2496 Portuguese Sinnet, Solomon Bar

2868 Chain Plait, Chain Sinnet, Chain Stitch


Knots Index

Knots Index by Category:

Single LoopsIf you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link. For example, to create a link to the Double Dragon (Hyperlink Name aaa), use the following address:

http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aaa

Commonly Known As

ABOK #

Hyperlink Name Picture

Alpine Butterfly, Butterfly Loop, Lineman's Loop

1053 1053

Bowline 1010 1010


Knots Index

Double Dragon aaa

Double-Knotted Bowline, Double Bowline, Round Turn Bowline

1013 1013

Figure-Eight Loop, Figure-Eight on a Bight, Flemish Loop

1047 1047


Knots Index

Inline Figure-Eight Loop, Directional Figure-Eight Knot, Single Bowline on the Bight

1058 1058

Left-Hand Bowline, Dutch Marine Bowline, Cowboy Bowline

1034.5 1034.5

Artillery Loop, Harness Loop, Manharness Loop

1050 1050


Knots Index

Overhand Loop 1009 1009

Perfection Loop, Angler's Loop

1017, 1035

1017 or 1035

Tugboat Bowline, Flying Bowline

aab

Water Bowline 1012 1012


Knots Index


Double LoopsIf you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link.

For example, to create a link to the Birmingham Bowline (Hyperlink Name aac), use the following address: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aac

Commonly Known As ABOK #


Double Splayed Loop in the Bight, ABOK #1100

1100 1100

Birmingham Bowline aac


Knots Index

Bowline on the Bight 1080 1080

Double Alpine Butterfly aad

Double Double Dragon aae

Double Figure-Eight Loop 1085 1085


Knots Index

French Bowline, Portuguese Bowline

1072 1072

Spanish Bowline 1087 1087

Triple Crown, Three-Part Crown in the Bight

1097 1097


Knots Index


Triple LoopsIf you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link.

For example, to create a link to the Birmingham Bowline (Hyperlink Name aaf), use the following address: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aaf



Birmingham Bowline aaf

French Bowline, Portuguese Bowline

1072 1072


Knots Index

Triple Alpine Butterfly aag

Triple Bowline aah

Triple Double Dragon aai


Knots Index

Triple Figure-Eight Loop aaj


HitchesIf you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link.

For example, to create a link to the Adjustable Grip Hitch (Hyperlink Name aak), use the following address: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aak




Knots Index

Adjustable Grip Hitch aak

Back Hand Hitch 1725 1725

Buntline Hitch 1711 1711

Clove Hitch 1178 1178


Knots Index

Constrictor Knot 1189 1189

Fisherman's Bend, Anchor Bend

1723, 1841

1723 or 1841

Highwayman's Hitch aal

Lark's Head Hitch, Cow Hitch, Lanyard Hitch

1673 1673


Knots Index

Pile Hitch 1815 1815

Rolling Hitch, Magnus Hitch

1681 1681

Round Turn and Two Half Hitches 1720 1720

Sailor's Gripping Hitch aam


Knots Index

Sliding Sheet Bend aan

Tarbuck Knot aao

Tautline Hitch, Midshipman's Hitch

1730 1730

Two Half Hitches 1710 1710


Knots Index


Bends

(and other ways of tying ropes together)

If you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link. For example, to create a link to the Alpine Butterfly Bend (Hyperlink Name aaq), use the following address:

http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aaq

Commonly Known As

ABOK #


Adjustable Grip Hitches (Interlocked)

aap

Alpine Butterfly Bend aaq


Knots Index

The Ashley Bend, ABOK #1452

1452 1452

Bowline Bend 1455 1455

Carrick Bend 1439 1439

Double Dragon Bend aar


Knots Index

Double Fisherman's Knot, Grapevine Knot, Double English Knot

1415 1415

Double Sheet Bend 1434 1434

Figure-Eight Bend, Flemish Bend

1411 1411

Fisherman's Knot, Water Knot, Angler's Knot, English Knot, Englishman's Knot, True Lover's Knot, Waterman's Knot

1414 1414


Knots Index

Hunter's Bend, Rigger's Bend

aas

Overhand Bend 1410 1410

Reef Knot, Square Knot

1402 1402

Ring Knot, Water Knot, Tape Knot

1412 1412

Sheet Bend 1431 1431


Knots Index

Zeppelin Bend, Rosendahl's Bend

aat


Miscellaneous KnotsIf you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link.

For example, to create a link to the Blimp Knot (Hyperlink Name aau), use the following address: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aau



Ashley's Stopper Knot, Oysterman's Stopper

526 526


Knots Index

Axle Hitch 162 162

Bale Sling Hitch, Strap Hitch, Cow Hitch and Bowline

1694, 2168

1694 or 2168

Barrel Hitch 2176, 2177 2176


Knots Index

Blimp Knot aau

Double Overhand Knot 516 516

Figure Eight Knot 520 520

Honda Knot, Bowstring Knot

1024 1024


Knots Index

Jug Sling Hitch 1142 1142

Killick Hitch, Kelleg Hitch, Timber Hitch and Half Hitch

271, 1733

271 or 1733

Marlingspike Hitch 2030 2030

Overhand Knot, Thumb Knot

519 519

Reef Knot, Square Knot

1402 1402


Knots Index

Running Bowline 1117 1117

Scaffold Hitch 200 200

Sheep Shank 1152 1152

Shoelace Knots 1214 1214

Slip Knot 529 529


Knots Index

Timber Hitch 1665 1665

Trucker's Hitch aav


Decorative KnotsIf you want to create a link directly to any of the following knots, use the Hyperlink Name in your link.

For example, to create a link to the Blimp Knot (Hyperlink Name aaw), use the following address: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm#aaw

Commonly Known As

ABOK #



Knots Index

Blimp Knot aaw

Braid Knot aax

Chain Stitch, Chain Plait, Chain Sinnet

2868 2868

Chinese Button 600 600

Dragonfly aay


Knots Index

Good Luck Knot, Shamrock Knot

2436 2436

Jug Sling Hitch 1142 1142

Knife Lanyard 787 787

Monkey's Fist 2202 2202

Portuguese Sinnet, Solomon Bar

2496 2496


Knots Index

Square Knot 1032 1032

Turk's Head Knots

1306 1306

Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index (this page) ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots


Knots Index




Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Knots Index" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm


11/17/2006: Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites."11/02/2005: Added a Hyperlink Name for each knot that does not have an ABOK #.10/18/2005: Instead of using the pictures as links, now it uses the knot names as links. This should be more

intuitive, especially if someone else creates a link which points to a specific knot on this page.10/17/2005: New article.






Miscellaneous Knots


Miscellaneous Knots


Site Map



● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots (this page) ● Decorative Knots

file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_Miscellaneous.htm (1 of 19) [3/12/2010 9:38:38 AM]


Miscellaneous Knots

Miscellaneous Knots


1. Ashley's Stopper Knot or Oysterman's Stopper or ABOK #526 You can often add more security to a knot by tying a "stopper" at the end of your rope. This will help prevent the end of the rope from slipping through the knot due to a heavy load or a series of jerks on the rope. First tie a Slip Knot (picture 1), then bring the end of the rope back through the loop (pictures 2 and 3). If you follow the pictures then you should end up with a nice, bulky knot (picture 4).

-1 -2 -3

-4

According to Budworth, "Clifford W. Ashley, whose monumental work The Ashley Book of Knots is every knot enthusiast's bible, devised this knot sometime before 1910." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.32).

2. Axle Hitch or ABOK #162


Miscellaneous Knots

When you need to tie a hitch in a hard-to-reach place, or if you want extra security by having a double hold on an object, this hitch will come in handy. First pass a bight (a doubled rope) around the object as in picture 1. Bring the end of the rope over the main part of the rope, then through the bight from behind, then behind the main part of the rope, then crossing over itself (picture 2). Now thread the end of the rope back through the bight a second time, exactly like the first time (picture 3), then tie it off with a Bowline (or something else such as a Double Dragon) (picture 4). This is more of a specialty hitch, which is why I placed it in this section rather than in the section on Hitches.

-1 -2 -3 -4

3. Bale Sling Hitch or Strap Hitch or Cow Hitch and Bowline or ABOK #1694 or ABOK #2168 When a Lark's Head Hitch is used for hoisting or lowering objects then it is sometimes referred to as the Bale Sling Hitch. This is more of a specialty hitch, which is why I placed it in this section rather than in the section on Hitches.


Miscellaneous Knots

Notice that the end of the rope is tied off with a Bowline, although a Double Dragon can be used as well.

4. Barrel Hitch or ABOK #2176 or ABOK #2177 This is the simplest yet most effective method of hoisting or lowering an object while keeping it in a vertical position. This is more of a specialty hitch, which is why I placed it in this section rather than in the section on Hitches.

In order to see how this hitch works, tie a fairly large Overhand Knot (picture 1). Where the rope crosses itself in the middle of the knot (near the blue dot in picture 1), grab the strand of rope on top and bring it towards you, then lay it back down as in picture 2 (notice where the blue dot is in picture 2). In picture 2, notice that there is a strand of rope which runs diagonally from the bottom left to the top right, creating two large loops. Place a plastic cup (or some other tall object) on top of that diagonal strand of rope, then carefully bring those two loops up the sides of the cup, and you should be able to lift up the cup using both ends of the rope (picture 3).

-1 -2


Miscellaneous Knots

-3

In picture 3 (above), notice that the end of the rope is tied off with a Bowline, although a Double Dragon can be used as well.

Method #2 Notice that picture 2 (above) looks similar to a Figure-Eight Knot. Try tying a Figure-Eight Knot instead of an Overhand Knot, and you'll find that it works just as well for making a Barrel Hitch.

Method #3 Once you see how the Barrel Hitch works, an easier way to tie it is to set the object on top of the rope (without any knots in the rope) and then tie a simple Overhand Knot on top of the object as in the picture below. Now pull apart the Overhand Knot (as indicated by the arrows in the picture below) and bring those two strands of rope down the sides of the object so that you end up with picture 3 above.

5. Blimp Knot


Miscellaneous Knots

You can often add more security to a knot by tying a "stopper" at the end of your rope. This will help prevent the end of the rope from slipping through the knot due to a heavy load or a series of jerks on the rope. The Blimp Knot also appears on the Decorative Knots page, but I included it here because it can be used as a decorative "stopper knot" or "pull knot" at the end of a rope or string. To tie this knot, start with an Overhand Knot (picture 1), then follow the rest of the pictures.

-1 -2 -

3 -4

Budworth calls this a "Blimp Knot" because it is similar to a Zeppelin Bend but is smaller and softer, and he says, "This is a nicely symmetrical ornamentation for an otherwise uninteresting length of cord." (The Complete Book of Decorative Knots, p.34).

6. Double Overhand Knot or ABOK #516 This is essentially a doubled Overhand Knot. To tie this knot, simply tie an Overhand Knot in two loops instead of only in one loop (pictures 1, 2, and 3). Dress and set the knot (picture 4).

-1 -2 -3


Miscellaneous Knots

-4

The Double Overhand Knot is sometimes used as a "stopper knot," such as with the Figure-Eight Bend. However, it can be difficult to untie.

7. Figure Eight Knot or ABOK #520 You can often add more security to a knot by tying a "stopper" at the end of your rope. This will help prevent the end of the rope from slipping through the knot due to a heavy load or a series of jerks on the rope. To tie this knot, simply tie a Figure-Eight Knot at the end of the rope (picture 1), then tighten it (picture 2).

-1 -2

The Figure-Eight Knot is frequently used around the world as a "stopper knot."

8. Granny Knot See the Reef Knot.

9. Honda Knot or Bowstring Knot or ABOK #1024 The Honda Knot is described as being a favorite among cowboys for making a lariat (which they use in order to lasso cows, horses, etc.). To tie this knot, first tie an Overhand Knot (picture 1).


Miscellaneous Knots

Bring the end of the rope around and back through the Overhand Knot, then tie an Overhand Knot in the end of the rope to act as a "stopper knot" (picture 2). Dress and set the knot (picture 3). The Honda Knot creates the most nearly-perfect circle of any knot, which is what makes it good for a lariat. To create a lariat, push a bight from the main rope through the loop created by the Honda Knot (picture 4).

-1 -2

-3 -4

To learn how to throw and spin a lariat, see Throw a Lariat.

Sailors refer to this type of knot (which will automatically tighten up under a strain) as a "running knot." For more "running knots," see the Running Bowline.

10. Jug Sling Hitch or ABOK #1142 This decorative knot is useful for creating a carrying handle (or a hanging handle, etc.) for bottles, bags, and so on. To tie this knot, start as in picture 1. Grab the vertical strand of rope on the left (near the top), and bring it under the vertical strand on the right, then bend it back over towards the left again (picture 2). Notice the part of the rope which crosses over the two vertical strands in picture 1, and find that same section of rope in picture 2 (it is marked with a blue circle in picture 2). Bring that strand under the strand above it (marked with a red square in picture 2), then bring it over the two linked loops at the top of picture 2 (as in picture 3). With your thumb and finger, hold the two strands which are crossing each other where the red arrow is pointing in


http://www.inquiry.net/outdoor/spin_rope/throw_lariat.htm

Miscellaneous Knots

picture 3. Bring the pink and black sections of rope in picture 3 down to their new positions in picture 4. Place the neck of the bottle through the center of the knot, then tighten the knot (picture 5).

-1 -2

-3 -4 -5

Since this is a decorative knot, it can also be found in the Decorative Knots section.

11. Killick Hitch or Kelleg Hitch or Timber Hitch and Half Hitch or ABOK #271 or ABOK #1733 This is simply a Timber Hitch with a Half Hitch added, and it is useful for dragging long or heavy objects. This is more of a specialty hitch, which is why I placed it in this section rather than in the section on Hitches.

NOTE: For clarity, the Timber Hitch in the picture only shows the end of the rope making a single turn around the main part of the rope. It is much more secure to make at least three turns around the rope instead.


Miscellaneous Knots

Budworth says, "Use the killick hitch to tow long loads through water or drag them overland. It works well on rough objects, such as tree trunks, but can slip on smooth spars." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.47)

12. Marlingspike Hitch or ABOK #2030 This is useful when you need a good grip on a string or a rope (in order to tighten down a load, for example). To tie this knot, first make a loop (picture 1), then cross the loop over the rope (picture 2). Now push an object such as a screwdriver through the knot as in picture 3. This gives you a handle to grab in order to tighten the rope or string. As soon as you remove the object, the knot will disappear.

-1 -2 -3

Notice that this is really just a Slip Knot with an object such as a screwdriver stuck through the loop.

13. Overhand Knot or Thumb Knot or ABOK #519 This is the simplest of all knots (picture 1). It is used as the base formation for a number of other knots (picture 2), such as the Reef Knot, the Granny Knot, and the Shoelace Knots.


Miscellaneous Knots

-1 -2

14. Reef Knot or Square Knot or ABOK #1402 This knot is often referred to as the Square Knot, but its proper name is the Reef Knot (here is a real Square Knot). It is made by tying two Overhand Knots. In the center of picture 1, notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left has crossed over the end of rope which is coming in from the right. When the second Overhand Knot is tied in picture 2, notice that the end of rope which is coming from the right has crossed over the end of rope which is coming from the left. Therefore, some people remember how to tie a Reef Knot by using the phrase, "left over right, right over left."

Here's another way to remember how to tie a Reef Knot. Notice that the end of rope which is coming in from the left in picture 1 (which crosses over the other end of rope) is the same end of rope which crosses over the other end of rope in the second Overhand Knot in picture 2. Therefore, my way of remembering how to tie a Reef Knot is simply to make sure that the same end of rope crosses over the other end of rope in both of the Overhand Knots.

-1 -2

The Reef Knot is perhaps the best known parcel knot, but it does not hold well under a load. It is also the best knot for tying a triangular bandage. Ashley says that it is admirable as a binder knot, "but under no circumstances should it be used as a bend." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.258, #1402).

In other words, the Reef Knot should never be used for tying two ends of rope together. For some secure ways of tying two ends of rope, see the Bends section.

Granny Knot If the Reef Knot is not tied correctly then you will end up with a Granny Knot (which is far inferior to the Reef Knot -- see Budworth's comment below).


Miscellaneous Knots

According to Budworth, "Tying a reef knot around something ensures that the more strain placed upon it, the tighter it is pulled. It is not a bend and is quite weak (reducing the breaking strength of whatever it is tied in to no more than 45%), so avoid using it for ropes or any two bits of mismatched cordage. ... The Ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians all knew this knot and were aware of its superiority over the unreliable granny knot, which both slips and jams." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.134-135, emphasis added).

Now that you know the difference between a Reef Knot and a Granny Knot, try taking a close look at the way you tie your shoelaces. You are either tying them as Reef Knots or as Granny Knots, but notice that the Reef Knot will result in a better shoelace knot than the Granny Knot will. For some interesting variations on tying your shoelaces, see the Shoelace Knots.

15. Running Bowline or ABOK #1117 This is useful if you need a loop which will automatically tighten up under a strain. First tie a Bowline, then push a bight from the main rope through the loop created by the Bowline as in the picture below.

Notice that just about any loop knot can be used to make this type of "running knot," such as an Alpine Butterfly or a Double Dragon.

For making lariats, cowboys generally prefer the Honda Knot.


Miscellaneous Knots

16. Scaffold Hitch or ABOK #200 This hitch is useful for hanging a length of wood (such as for making scaffolding, or a wooden swing, etc.). To tie this knot, wrap the rope three times around the end of the board as in picture 1. The ends of the rope are very short in picture 1, but this is simply for the purpose of making the picture clearer. Now grab the strand of rope on top of the board which is farthest to the left in picture 1, and bring it to the right over the top of the other two strands of rope, then hook it under the board (picture 2). Picture 3 shows the ends of the rope at a more normal length, and now you can tie off one end of the rope with a Bowline (or some other knot such as a Double Dragon as shown in picture 3).

-1 -2 -3

17. Sheep Shank or ABOK #1152 The Sheep Shank can be used to shorten a length of rope, or to isolate a damaged section of rope. To tie this knot, first make three identical loops (picture 1). If you are trying to strengthen your rope by isolating a damaged section of the rope then the damaged section must be in the middle loop, not the outer two loops. Now reach through the outer two loops and pull the middle loop through the outer loops (picture 2). Tighten by pulling on the ends of the rope (picture 3). The knot will only hold as long as both ends of the rope are putting a strain on the knot. When the strain is released, the knot can easily be shaken apart (which can be handy in certain situations but dangerous in other situations).

-1 -2


Miscellaneous Knots

-3

A more secure way to isolate a damaged section of rope is by using an Alpine Butterfly.

A decorative version of the Sheep Shank is called the Sheep Shank Man o' War. To tie this knot, first make four identical loops (picture 1). Reach through the two left-most loops and grab the closest part of the third loop (picture 2), then reach through the two right-most loops and grab the closest part of the next loop (picture 3), then pull your hands back out of all of the loops. Pictures 2 and 3 show these actions as two separate steps, but you would actually do them both at the same time. Tighten the knot by pulling on both ends of the rope (picture 4).

-1

-2 -3

-4

18. Shoelace Knots or ABOK #1214 Try taking a close look at the way you tie your shoelaces. You are either tying them as Reef Knots or as Granny Knots, but notice that the Reef Knot will result in a better shoelace knot than the Granny Knot will.


Miscellaneous Knots

Here are a couple of websites with some interesting variations on the standard shoelace knot:

�❍ Ian's Shoelace Site �❍ The Better Bow

19. Slip Knot or ABOK #529 Many knots can be "slipped," meaning that instead of bringing the end of the rope through the last part of the knot, you actually push a bight (a doubled rope) through instead. This makes it easy to untie the knot by pulling the end of the rope. Notice that the basic Slip Knot (shown in the picture below) is actually a "slipped" Overhand Knot.

20. Timber Hitch or ABOK #1665 Ashley says that this is "much used in handling cargo, for which it is very convenient, as it practically falls apart when pull ceases." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.290, #1665). This is more of a specialty hitch, which is why I placed it in this section rather than in the section on Hitches. Also see the Killick Hitch.

NOTE: For clarity, picture 2 only shows the end of the rope making a single turn around the main part of the rope. It is much more secure to make at least three turns around the rope instead.


http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/knots.htm

http://www.dsiegel.com/tips/wonk10/bow.html

Miscellaneous Knots

-1

-2

21. Trucker's Hitch When you need to lash something down on a car roof, a truck bed, etc., the Trucker's Hitch is a handy way to get extra force for cinching the items down. It acts like a pulley, which means that for every 10 pounds of pull (as you cinch the items down) you're actually applying roughly 30 pounds of force (remember that friction will rob some of your force).

After you bring the rope over the top of the items to be lashed down, tie a loop in the rope. An Alpine Butterfly or some other mid-line loop will work fine, but many people use a simple Slip Knot as in picture 1. Pass the end of the rope through a ring or some other solid feature on your truck, car, etc., then pass it through the loop which you had tied in the rope (picture 1). You now have an improvised pulley system which will multiply the amount of force that you can apply as you tighten down the load. Then tie off the end of the rope with your favorite hitch.


Miscellaneous Knots

-1 -2 -3

Using a single loop knot such as an Alpine Butterfly or a Slip Knot makes a sharp bend for the rope to go around as you pull on it, which can lower the breaking strength of the rope and shorten the life of the rope. In addition, a Slip Knot can jam under heavy tension. An improved Trucker's Hitch can be made by tying a Slip Knot in a doubled rope (picture 2 above), then passing the end of the rope through some solid feature on your truck (for example), then passing it through the three loops in the doubled Slip Knot (picture 3). Brion Toss refers to this as the Biegner Hitch (The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, p.15).

Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots (this page) ● Decorative Knots


Miscellaneous Knots




Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Miscellaneous Knots" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_Miscellaneous.htm


11/17/2006: Modified the description of how to tie the Jug Sling Hitch. Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites."


01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article. Added the Axle Hitch. Enhanced the description of the Reef Knot. Added a link to the "real" Square Knot. Added the Trucker's Hitch.

07/09/2004: Added links to some interesting variations on the basic shoelace knot.06/13/2004: Added the Honda Knot, added the Running Bowline, and added new pictures of the Barrel

Hitch.05/18/2004: Modified my description of how to tie the Jug Sling Hitch.05/10/2004: Added the Jug Sling Hitch and the Scaffold Hitch, and modified my description of the

Reef Knot.05/04/2004: Added the Blimp Knot.



Miscellaneous Knots






Single-Loop Knots


Single-Loop Knots


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Single-Loop Knots

Single-Loop Knots

A single loop is useful when you need to throw a rope over something such as a post (to tie up a boat, for example), or when you need to attach something to a loop of rope (as in rock climbing), and so on. With some of these loop knots, the end of the rope can first be wrapped around an object (such as passing the rope around a person's waist or around a tree) before tying the knot.

If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use, and how to tie it properly, when you need to tie a loop. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one or two strong knots which you can remember easily. My preferences are the Alpine Butterfly and some form of the Bowline, for reasons which I'll describe throughout this article.


1. Alpine Butterfly or Butterfly Loop or Butterfly Knot or Lineman's Loop or ABOK #1053 The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots.

Method #1 This is my method for tying the Alpine Butterfly. First give the rope two twists as in the first picture, which creates two loops. Put your hand through the upper loop (picture 2), then put your fingers through the other loop (picture 3). Bring the upper loop over to your fingers (picture 4), then grab the upper loop with your thumb and finger and pull your hand all the way out. In picture 5, the loop that you pulled through the knot is now hanging down at the bottom, and notice that the knot looks like two intertwined Overhand Knots. Dress and set the knot (picture 6). This looks a little complicated when it is captured in pictures, but it is actually quite simple and quick to do. If you pull the two ends in opposite directions then the knot will form itself into the configuration which is more familiar to many people (picture 7).

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-4

-5 -6 -7

Method #2 Here is another way to tie the Alpine Butterfly, which is now my favorite method. Start by wrapping the rope several times around your hand so that you have three strands of rope laying on the palm of your hand (picture 1 below). Grab the left-most strand (#1 in picture 1) and bring it all the way to the right over the other two strands (pictures 1 and 2). Once again grab the left-most strand (#2 in picture 3) and bring it all the way to the right over the other two strands (pictures 3 and 4). After bringing strand #2 over the other two strands, push it back to the left under the other two strands (picture 5). Now dress the knot so that strand #2 becomes the loop, keeping strands 3 and 1 in the same order as they are in picture 5. The dressed knot should look like picture 6 above. Since strand #2 will become the loop, you can resize it before you push it to the left under the other two strands. There are other ways to tie an Alpine Butterfly using a method similar to this, but I prefer my variation for two reasons. First, it is easier to remember because you always pick up the left-most strand and bring it all the way to the right over the other two strands. Second, it automatically results in a well-dressed knot because it puts strands 1 and 3 into the proper positions so that you end up with the knot in picture 6 above. This method of tying an Alpine Butterfly also has several advantages over the first method shown above. One advantage is that this method tends to eliminate most of the "twist" in the rope which can happen with the first method. This method is also less "awkward" than the first method. Plus, this same basic method can be used for tying the Double Alpine Butterfly, the Triple Alpine Butterfly, and


Single-Loop Knots

the Alpine Butterfly Bend, which makes it easy to remember how to tie the Alpine Butterfly for different purposes.

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-5

Method #3 For another way to tie the Alpine Butterfly, see Animated Knots

Method #4 To tie an Alpine Butterfly around an object, first tie an Overhand Knot (picture 1 below), then pass the end of the rope around the object and insert the end of the rope into the Overhand Knot to form a Slip Knot (picture 2). Bring the end of the rope over the main part of the rope and around the knot (picture 3), then behind the loop (picture 4), then insert it into the knot so that it follows the other end of the rope (picture 5). After you dress and set the knot (picture 6), it should look similar to picture 6 above.



Single-Loop Knots

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The Alpine Butterfly is fairly easy and quick to tie, and it is generally considered to be as strong and secure as the Double-Knotted Bowline and the Figure-Eight Loop. Dressing this knot is quick and easy, and it is fairly easy to untie after it has held a load (unlike the Figure-Eight Loop).

Ashley says that "It has an excellent lead and is strong, secure, and easily tied; a better knot in every way than the Harness Loop." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.190, #1053).

According to Budworth, the Alpine Butterfly "can be pulled in two (or even three) directions at once without distorting or capsizing. ... 'If the Bowline is "the King of Knots",' wrote John Sweet in his book Scout Pioneering (1974), 'this must surely be the "Queen".'" (The Complete Book of Knots, p.86-87).

Budworth also says that if your rope is damaged, you can isolate the damaged area by tying an Alpine Butterfly around it (The Complete Book of Knots, p.86).


Single-Loop Knots

The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots that can be tied in the middle of a rope or at the end of a rope. It can be pulled in two or three directions without distorting, and it can be used to strengthen a damaged rope by isolating the damaged area. The Alpine Butterfly can also be tied as a double-loop or a triple-loop knot (to use it as a rescue sling, for example), it can be used to tie a rope around an object, and it can be used as a bend (to tie two ends of rope together, even if they are different thicknesses). These things make the Alpine Butterfly a very versatile and valuable knot to know, and it is now my preferred loop knot along with some form of the Bowline.

2. Bowline or ABOK #1010 The Bowline has been called "the King of Knots," and it is used around the world in one form or another. Here is the basic way to tie a Bowline, and we'll see a number of variations on the Bowline in this section and in other sections. First make a small loop so that the rope crosses over on top of itself, then bring the end of the rope up through that small loop (picture 1). Bring the end of the rope around behind the main part of the rope and insert it into the small loop (picture 2). Dress and set the knot (picture 3).

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Method #2 Here's a quick method of tying a Bowline. First pass the end of the rope around an object, then make a loose Half Hitch around the main part of the rope as in picture 1 below (notice that the end of the rope crosses over on top of itself as it forms a loop). Pull on the end of the rope, and the Half Hitch will be transferred to the main part of the rope (picture 2). You should now have the same configuration as in picture 1 above.


Single-Loop Knots

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Method #3 Here's another quick method of tying a Bowline. First form a loop, making sure that the end of the rope lies on top of the main part of the rope (picture 1 below). Grab the rope where it crosses itself, with your thumb underneath and your fingers on top (picture 2). Flip your hand over so that your fingers and the end of the rope go inside the main loop (picture 3). You should now have the same configuration as in the original picture 1 above.

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Method #4 Here's an interesting way to tie a Bowline. Pass the end of the rope around an object, then tie a loose Slip Knot in the main part of the rope. Make sure that the Overhand Knot is formed using the end of the rope (rather than the main part of the rope), as in picture 1 below. Pass the end of the rope through the Slip Knot in the direction shown in picture 2. Pull on the main part of the rope, and the knot will capsize into a Bowline!


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Some people feel that the Bowline weakens a rope too much, but other people say that they have been using the Bowline for years with no problems, even when towing heavy loads or when lifting (or lowering) injured people to safety. However, the Bowline can loosen up when there is no load on it (especially in some synthetic ropes), which increases the possibility of it coming undone or distorting. For a discussion of some ways to "lock" a Bowline to make it more secure, see the forum topic called Simple lock for the bowline at the International Guild of Knot Tyers. Also see the Water Bowline.

According to Ashley, "Properly tied in ordinary rope, there is little or no danger of a Bowline Knot's capsizing before the breaking point of the rope itself is reached. It is so good a knot that the sailor seldom uses any other Loop Knot aboard ship." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.186, #1010).

Budworth says that "It is far from the strongest loop knot, reducing the breaking strength of any stuff in which it is tied by as much as 40%. Nor is it very secure, particularly when the rope is stiff or slippery, when it has been known to capsize (if excessively loaded) or alternatively to spring or shake itself apart (when unloaded). Nevertheless the bowline can be used for a wide range of jobs, from securing the string before tying a parcel, to outdoor pursuits such as climbing. When I was a Metropolitan Police frogman in the 1960's, my colleagues and I tied the line around our waists with a simple bowline. The working end (deliberately made long) was then tucked several times around the adjacent part of the loop to secure it. Climbers' manuals advise their readers to finish off such tucks with one or two half-hitches (made in the opposite direction to the twist) for even greater security and peace of mind." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.36).

The Bowline has a long history and a long track record of safe use when properly tied, and it is useful in a wide variety of situations (see for example the Axle Hitch, the Bale Sling Hitch, and the Barrel Hitch). The Bowline can also be tied as a double-loop or a triple-loop knot (to use it as a rescue sling, for example), it can be used to tie a rope around an object, and it can be used as a bend (to tie two ends of rope together, even if they are different thicknesses). These things make



Single-Loop Knots

the Bowline a very versatile and valuable knot to know, and the Double-Knotted Bowline is considered to be one of the strongest and most secure forms of the Bowline.

For the average person who only wants to learn one or two strong loop knots, my choices would be the Alpine Butterfly and some form of the Bowline.

3. Double Dragon The Double Dragon was shown to me by Paul Kruse, who is an engineer at an industrial rigging shop.

The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots, and in Paul's experience and testing at his rigging shop, the Double Dragon seems to rival the Alpine Butterfly in strength, security, reliability, and so on. They use this knot quite frequently at his company (although not yet for hanging scaffolding, pending approval by an Engineering Review), and Paul has submitted it to the online forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers for identification in order to determine if it is known by another name. The general consensus on that forum is that this knot has never been named before.

Method #1 To tie this knot, first create two bights as in picture 1, then wrap the end of the rope twice around the lower bight to create a big loop on the left and a small loop on the right (picture 2). Bring the big loop (on the left) over the knot and push it through the small loop on the right (picture 3), then dress and set the knot (picture 4).

-1 -2

-3




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-4

Method #2 This is my variation for tying a Double Dragon around an object. After you wrap the end of the rope around an object (picture 1), make a loop around your fingers with the main part of the rope (picture 2). Flip the loop over (grab the bottom of the loop and bring it towards you and up until it is now the top of the loop) and place it back onto your fingers to form a bight around the end of the rope (picture 3), then thread the end of the rope back through that bight (picture 4). Now bring the end of the rope over the top of the upper two sections of rope on your fingers (picture 5), and wrap the end of the rope twice around those two upper sections of rope (picture 6). Dress and set the knot (picture 7).

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One nice thing about tying the Double Dragon around an object is that it does not require tying any kind of knot before passing the end of the rope around the object (similar to the Bowline, but unlike the Alpine Butterfly and the Rethreaded Figure-Eight Loop).

Method #3 Here is my "quick" version of the Double Dragon, which can be used when tying a Double Dragon at the end of a rope or around an object. It's difficult to describe this in pictures, but with practice you'll get the hang of it. First make a loop, holding it with your right index and middle fingers and with your thumb on top of the point where the rope crosses itself (in picture 1 the right thumb is not directly over the spot where the rope crosses itself, but this is simply to make the picture a little clearer). The end of the rope should cross on top of the main part of the rope. Place your left index and middle fingers under the main part of the rope (picture 1). Now bring your left hand over to the right so that it crosses over on top of the loop (picture 2). Notice in picture 2 that your right index and middle fingers should be inside a small loop. Put your left index and middle fingers into the small loop where your right index and middle fingers are (picture 3). Now transfer the knot to your left hand (use your left thumb to hold it in place) and remove your right hand, and you should have the same configuration as in picture 5 above. Finish tying the knot as above. Again, it's difficult to describe this in a few pictures, but as you play with it you'll be able to do this smoothly and quickly, especially if your right hand takes more of an active role in transferring the knot to your left hand.


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-1

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The Double Dragon is fairly easy to remember how to tie, it is easy and quick to tie, and it seems to be as strong and secure as the Alpine Butterfly and the Double-Knotted Bowline and the Figure-Eight Loop (which are all generally considered to be equal in strength).

Paul Kruse also pointed out that if you tie a Double-Knotted Bowline and pass the end of the rope back through the top of the knot (so that it follows the path of the main part of the rope), then you have tied a reversed Double Dragon.

Budworth says that if your rope is damaged, you can isolate the damaged area by tying an Alpine Butterfly around it (The Complete Book of Knots, p.86), and the same might be true for the Double Dragon. However, there has been some discussion on the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning the use of the Double Dragon as a mid-line loop because this might cause the knot to jam and be difficult to untie (for example, see the forum topic called Double Dragon vs. Double-tucked Angler).

The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop



Single-Loop Knots

knots that can be tied in the middle of a rope or at the end of a rope, and the Double Dragon appears to rival the Alpine Butterfly in many respects. The Double Dragon can also be tied as a double-loop or a triple-loop knot (to use it as a rescue sling, for example), it can be used to tie a rope around an object, and it can be used as a bend (to tie two ends of rope together, even if they are different thicknesses).

However, for the average person who only wants to learn one or two strong loop knots, my choices would be the Alpine Butterfly and some form of the Bowline.

4. Double-Knotted Bowline or Double Bowline or Round Turn Bowline or ABOK #1013 Adding a second small loop (an extra turn) to a basic Bowline gives it essentially the same strength rating as the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure-Eight Loop. Some people refer to this knot as the Double Bowline, which can be confusing because "Double Bowline" is also a good description of the Bowline on the Bight (which has two loops, just like the other double-loop knots).

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According to Budworth, "If the [bowline] will have to withstand rough treatment, tie the double bowline (figs 8-9). This has a breaking strength of 70-75% and is therefore stronger and far more secure than a basic bowline." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.37, brackets added).

Also see the Water Bowline, which is similar to the Double-Knotted Bowline except that the upper small loop in picture 1 (above) is the lower small loop in the Water Bowline.

For a discussion of some ways to "lock" a Bowline to make it more secure, see the forum topic called Simple lock for the bowline at the International Guild of Knot Tyers.



Single-Loop Knots

Again, the Bowline is a valuable knot to know, and the Double-Knotted Bowline increases the Bowline's strength up to the level of the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure-Eight Loop.


5. Figure-Eight Loop or Figure-Eight on a Bight or Flemish Loop or ABOK #1047 People who are not comfortable with the basic Bowline often prefer the Figure-Eight Loop. The Figure-Eight Loop is generally considered to be 10-15% stronger than the basic Bowline and essentially the same strength as the Alpine Butterfly and the Double-Knotted Bowline. To tie this knot, simply double the rope and then tie a basic Figure-Eight Knot (picture 1). Make sure to dress the knot properly so that all of the strands of rope are parallel to each other and don't cross over each other (picture 2).

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Method #2 An alternate way to tie the Figure-Eight Loop is called the Rethreaded Figure-Eight Loop or the Rewoven Figure-Eight Loop or the Retraced Figure-Eight Loop or the Figure-Eight Follow-Through. First tie a basic Figure-Eight Knot in the rope (picture 1 below), then you can pass the end of the rope around an object (picture 2). Now thread the end of the rope back through all of the twists and turns of the Figure-Eight Knot (pictures 3 and 4). If you do it properly then you will end up with a Figure-Eight Loop. Make sure to dress the knot properly so that all of the strands of rope are parallel to each other and don't cross over each other (picture 5).


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The Rethreaded Figure-Eight Loop is not exactly difficult, but it's not a "quick" knot to tie. It has all of the strength and security of the Figure-Eight Loop, and it is used frequently by climbers. However, people have had serious accidents by not properly rethreading the Figure-Eight Knot (for example, see SILT HAPPENS #99-2 and do a Find on "Figure 8's vs. Bowlines").

Ashley says that this knot is "perhaps stronger than [the Overhand Loop]. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.190, #1047, brackets added).

According to Budworth, "the figure eight knot layout is a versatile alternative to a bowline, a bowline in the bight or a triple bowline ... Remove any twists so that paired parts of the knot are parallel with one another. For maximum strength, climbers recommend that the standing bight [the first turn from the main part of the rope] ... should lie on the outside of the bend" (The Complete Book of Knots, p.88, brackets added).

This knot is easy to remember how to tie, it is easy to tie, and it is generally considered to be strong and secure. However, this knot has some disadvantages. For one thing, dressing the knot properly is not always a quick thing to do. If the knot is not properly dressed (in other words, if the rope crosses over itself unnecessarily) then it will weaken the rope more than you might


http://www.gcsar.org/silt/1999/2/99-2.htm

Single-Loop Knots

realize (see the Home Page for more on "dressing" a knot). Another big disadvantage is that this knot is difficult to untie after it has held a load.

The Figure-Eight Loop can also be tied as a double-loop or a triple-loop knot (to use it as a rescue sling, for example), it can be used to tie a rope around an object, and it can be used as a bend (to tie two ends of rope together).

However, for the average person who only wants to learn one or two strong loop knots, my choices would be the Alpine Butterfly and some form of the Bowline.

6. Inline Figure-Eight Loop or Directional Figure-Eight Knot or Single Bowline on the Bight or ABOK #1058 This is another form of a Figure-Eight Loop.

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The Inline Figure-Eight Loop can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends of the rope, it is less bulky than the Figure-Eight Loop, and it passes more easily over a pulley or an obstruction. However, there isn't much data to indicate how strong or reliable this knot is.


7. Left-Hand Bowline or Dutch Marine Bowline or Cowboy Bowline or ABOK #1034.5


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Ashley says that this is distinctly inferior to the basic Bowline (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.188, #1034.5).

However, it has been said that the Dutch navy prefers this form of the Bowline, hence the name "Dutch Marine Bowline." I haven't been able to verify that the Dutch navy uses this knot, and I am waiting for a reply to an email which might answer this question. I also have not been able to determine where the "Cowboy Bowline" name comes from. It is possible that this knot is more secure in shock cord than the basic Bowline, as mentioned on the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers.

For the average person who only wants to learn one or two strong loop knots, my choices would be the Alpine Butterfly and some other form of the Bowline.

8. Manharness Loop or Harness Loop or Artillery Loop or ABOK #1050 This is another loop knot which can be tied in the middle of a rope or at the end of a rope. In the first picture, the end of the rope is completely underneath the loop (in other words, this is not an Overhand Knot in picture 1).




Single-Loop Knots

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Ashley says that the Alpine Butterfly is "a better knot in every way than the Harness Loop." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.190, #1053).

This knot is very similar to the Tugboat Bowline.


9. Overhand Loop or ABOK #1009 This is another loop knot which can be tied in the middle of a rope. To tie this knot, simply double the rope and then tie an Overhand Knot.


Single-Loop Knots

-1 -2

Ashley says that the Figure-Eight Loop is "perhaps stronger than [the Overhand Loop]. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie." (The Ashley Book of Knots, p.190, #1047, brackets added).


10. Perfection Loop (Angler's Loop, ABOK #1017, ABOK #1035) and Tugboat Bowline (Flying Bowline) Since the Perfection Loop and the Tugboat Bowline are so similar to each other, I'll show them both here in order to make the differences easier to see. There appear to be two main knots which are sometimes referred to as the Tugboat Bowline, so I'll call them "Tugboat A" and "Tugboat B." Tugboat A is actually the "single" form of the Double Dragon (in other words, it is a Double Dragon in which the end of the rope only wraps around once instead of twice).

These three knots are shown in the order of "worst" (Tugboat A) then "better" (Tugboat B) then "best" (Perfection Loop).

To tie these knots, start as in picture 1 and then wrap the end of the rope once around by bringing it down behind the rest of the rope and back up over the rope (picture 2). You now have a loop on the left and a bight on the right. Grab the loop and bring it to the right over the end of the rope, then tuck it through the bight on the right (picture 3) to become the main loop (picture 4).

Tugboat A (pictures 1, 2, and 3):


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Tugboat B (pictures 1, 2, and 3):

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Perfection Loop (pictures 1, 2, and 3):

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Tugboat A (front and back):

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Tugboat B (front and back):

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Perfection Loop (front and back):

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The Perfection Loop is said to be stable as shown above. However, it has a tendency to jam (i.e. it can become difficult to untie), which is necessary for fishermen but not always a good thing in rope. Tugboat A is prone to deforming and capsizing, so it needs to have the end of the rope wrapped a second time around in order to be stable (forming the Double Dragon, which is a strong and secure knot). Tugboat B benefits from a second wrap as well:

Tugboat A with a second wrap (i.e. the Double Dragon):

Tugboat B with a second wrap:

The Tugboat Bowline is apparently referred to as the Speed Bowline in Knot Throwing by Bill Fry and Becky Rosada.

In picture 3 of Tugboat A (above), if you take the main loop and give it a twist then you'll have the Artillery Loop.

In picture 1 of Tugboat B (above), if you give the loop a twist then you'll have picture 1 for the Perfection Loop.

Notice that the Perfection Loop and the Tugboat Bowline(s) can be tied "in the bight," which means that they can be tied in the middle of the rope without using the ends of the rope.

For a discussion of these knots, as well as some instructions on a "flying" (i.e. quick) method of tying the Tugboat Bowline, see the forum topic called Tugboat Bowline(s) and Perfection Loop at the International Guild of Knot Tyers.


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11. Tugboat Bowline (Flying Bowline)

See the Perfection Loop.

12. Water Bowline or ABOK #1012 Adding a second small loop to a Bowline (picture 1), then passing the end of the rope through that small loop (picture 2), adds more security to the Bowline. It also makes the Bowline less likely to jam when wet, hence the name of this knot. Draw up the second small loop snugly against the main knot (picture 3), but don't be concerned if the second small loop separates from the main knot during use.

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For a discussion of some other ways to "lock" a Bowline to make it more secure, see the forum topic called Simple lock for the bowline at the International Guild of Knot Tyers.

Also see the Double-Knotted Bowline, which is similar to the Water Bowline except that the upper small loop in picture 1 (above) is the lower small loop in the Double-Knotted Bowline.

Again, the Bowline is a valuable knot to know, and the Water Bowline adds security and jam-resistance to a Bowline.



Single-Loop Knots


Summary

The Inline Figure-Eight Loop (Directional Figure-Eight Knot) is used by some climbers, but there's not much data to indicate how strong and secure it is. The Left-Hand Bowline is often regarded as being less secure than the basic Bowline. The Manharness Loop (Harness Loop, Artillery Loop) is not as good as the Alpine Butterfly, according to Ashley. The Overhand Loop is sometimes used for quick and simple loops, but it is difficult to untie if it has held a heavy load.

The Perfection Loop (Angler's Loop) and the Tugboat Bowline (Flying Bowline) are very similar to each other, and there appear to be two main knots which are sometimes referred to as the Tugboat Bowline. The Perfection Loop is said to be stable. However, it has a tendency to jam (i.e. it can become difficult to untie), which is necessary for fishermen but not always a good thing in rope. Tugboat A is prone to deforming and capsizing, so it needs to have the end of the rope wrapped a second time around in order to be stable (forming the Double Dragon, which is a strong and secure knot). Tugboat B benefits from a second wrap as well.

The three single-loop knots which are mentioned the most often by climbers, cavers, rescue workers, etc., as having the highest strength ratings and usefulness are the Alpine Butterfly, the Bowline, and the Figure-Eight Loop. There are differences of opinion about the strength and security of the basic Bowline, but it seems to be generally agreed that the Double-Knotted Bowline has essentially the same strength as the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure-Eight Loop. Therefore, all three of these are valuable knots.

The Figure-Eight Loop (Figure-Eight on a Bight, Flemish Loop) is easy to tie, but it tends to require more time to dress properly than the other two popular loops. If you don't dress and set it properly then it can weaken the rope more than you might realize. It is also difficult to untie after it has held a load. One advantage with this knot is that it can be tied in the middle of a rope (when you don't have access to the ends of the rope), unlike the Double-Knotted Bowline. This is a popular knot among climbers, but it has some disadvantages which the Alpine Butterfly does not have.

The Double Dragon appears to be as strong and secure as the Alpine Butterfly. It is fairly quick and easy to tie and dress, and it doesn't require any kind of initial knot when it is tied around an object (similar to the Bowline, but unlike the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure-Eight Loop). However, it appears to jam (i.e. it can be difficult to untie) if both ends of the rope are under a strain. This makes the Double Dragon less useful as a mid-line loop or a bend than the Alpine Butterfly.

The Bowline (the "King of Knots") has a long track record, and it is used in some form throughout the


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world. However, it has a tendency to loosen up if it is not holding a load (especially in certain synthetic ropes), which can cause it to capsize or fall apart. There are many variations of the Bowline, and the Double-Knotted Bowline and the Water Bowline are two ways of increasing the strength and security of the basic Bowline. The Bowline is a useful knot to know.

The Alpine Butterfly (Butterfly Loop, Butterfly Knot, Lineman's Loop) is easy to remember, it is quick and easy to tie and dress, and it is fairly easy to untie after it has held a load. It can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends of the rope, or it can be tied at the end of the rope. The Alpine Butterfly can handle a pull in any direction, according to Budworth, and it can be used to help strengthen a damaged rope. It is generally regarded as being one of the strongest and most secure loop knots.


The purpose of this series of articles is to try to boil the thousands of knots down to just a few of the best rope and string knots that can safely be used for a wide variety of purposes. People such as climbers, sailors, search-and-rescue workers, etc., have their preferred knots, but for the average person it is probably "overkill" to try to learn and remember a variety of single-loop knots. For all of the above reasons, the Alpine Butterfly and some form of the Bowline are my choices for the best single-loop knots to learn. If you are an "average person" who doesn't need specialized knots (such as the kind that climbers, sailors, and so on, might need), then the Alpine Butterfly and Bowline families of knots (single-loop, double-loop, triple-loop, and bends) should serve you well in a variety of situations.

For other people's preferred knots, see the forum topic called "Best of breed" knots? at the International Guild of Knot Tyers.

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"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Single-Loop Knots" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_SingleLoops.htm


11/17/2006: Added a link to my new page called "Dave Root's Websites."03/27/2006: Method #2 for the Double Dragon made a reference to a non-existent "picture 5 above." I

simply made Method #2 and Method #3 swap places, and now the descriptions are correct. No other changes were made to the text or pictures.


07/02/2005: Added a link to another method of tying an Alpine Butterfly. Added some comments about the "Dutch Marine Bowline." Added the Perfection Loop. Added a couple of candidates for the Tugboat Bowline.



Single-Loop Knots

01/26/2005: Added a better way to tie an Alpine Butterfly. Special thanks to my 10-year-old son Michael for lending a hand!

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article. Added pictures of how to tie the Alpine Butterfly, the Double Dragon, and the Figure-Eight Loop around an object. Added a couple of links to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning ways of "locking" a Bowline to make it more secure. Added some quick and interesting ways of tying a Bowline (special thanks to my 4-year-old daughter Stephanie for lending a hand!). Added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers concerning the possibility of the Double Dragon jamming when there is a strain on both ends of the rope. Added the Water Bowline. Changed my preferred loop knots to the Alpine Butterfly and some form of the Bowline, and added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers in which other people have described their preferred knots.

06/13/2004: Updated the section on the Double Dragon in order to point out an interesting similarity between the Double Dragon and the Double-Knotted Bowline.

04/22/2004: Added links to some alternate methods for tying the Alpine Butterfly, Double Dragon, and Figure-Eight Loop.

04/15/2004: Added a new knot called the Double Dragon. Special thanks to my 9-year-old son Michael for lending a hand or two!

09/01/2003: Added new pictures of the Alpine Butterfly (i.e. for the first method which is described). Special thanks to my 9-year-old son Michael for lending a hand!






Triple-Loop Knots


Triple-Loop Knots


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file:///C|/Users/Buse%20Family/Downloads/Knots/UsefulRopeKnots/Knots_TripleLoops.htm (1 of 10) [3/12/2010 9:38:43 AM]


Triple-Loop Knots

Triple-Loop Knots

Sometimes it can be handy to tie a knot which has three loops in it. In a rescue situation, for example, you can put the injured person's legs through two of the loops and then put the third loop around his back.

If you don't tie knots in rope very often then it might be difficult to remember which knot to use, and how to tie it properly, when you need a triple-loop knot. Therefore, it's a good idea to learn one strong knot which you can remember easily. My preference is the Triple Alpine Butterfly, for reasons which I'll describe throughout this article.


1. Birmingham Bowline This variation of the basic Bowline creates two (or more) loops. To tie the Birmingham Bowline, first tie a basic Bowline (picture 1) and then continue around to tie a second Bowline (picture 2). You can add as many more loops as you desire. Dress and set the knot (picture 3).

-1 -2 -3

If you are familiar with the basic Bowline then the Birmingham Bowline is easy to remember how to tie, it is fairly easy to tie, it is fairly easy to dress, and it is easy to untie after it has held a load. Also, it is versatile because it can either be tied before the loops are put to use, or else you can pass the end of the rope around an object as you create the knot. One disadvantage of this knot is that it can't be tied in the middle of a rope (when you don't have access to the ends of the rope).


Triple-Loop Knots

I haven't been able to find any strength ratings for this knot, but if you absolutely need to pass the rope around an object while tying a triple-loop knot then this might be a knot to consider.

However, for the average person who only wants to learn one strong triple-loop knot, my choice would be the Triple Alpine Butterfly.

2. French Bowline or Portuguese Bowline or ABOK #1072 This is another variation of the basic Bowline which can create any number of loops.

-1 -2 -3

The French Bowline is slightly easier to tie than the Birmingham Bowline, and it seems to have basically the same advantages and disadvantages as the Birmingham Bowline. One disadvantage with the French Bowline is that it is fairly easy for one of the loops to get bigger and another loop to get smaller. This can potentially pose a hazard when hoisting or lowering people or heavy objects because it might allow the load to shift.

The French Bowline is also called the Portuguese Bowline in some books and websites, but I have seen other websites (such as this one) which describe the Portuguese Bowline slightly differently. Rather than bringing the end of the rope through the small loop in picture 1, you bring the end of the rope on top of the small loop. According to some people, this is the difference between the French and Portuguese Bowlines. I haven't been able to find any strength ratings for the French or Portuguese Bowlines, but they would appear to have a similar strength rating as the basic Bowline because the core knot configuration is the same.

For the average person who only wants to learn one strong triple-loop knot, my choice would be the Triple Alpine Butterfly.


http://131.230.57.1/knots/port_bl.htm

Triple-Loop Knots

3. Triple Alpine Butterfly This is now my favorite method for tying a multi-loop Alpine Butterfly. Start by wrapping the rope several times around your hand so that you have five strands of rope laying on the palm of your hand (picture 1 below). The three strands in the middle (strands 2, 3, and 4) will become the loops, so make them as big as they need to be (as in picture 1). Grab the left-most strand (#1 in picture 1) and bring it all the way to the right over all of the other strands (pictures 1 and 2). Now grab the three left-most strands (#2, #3, and #4 in picture 3) and bring them all the way to the right over all of the other strands (pictures 3 and 4). After bringing strands 2, 3, and 4 over the other strands, push those three back to the left under the other strands (picture 5). Dress the knot as in picture 6.

-1 -2

-3 -4

-5 -6

For the average person who only wants to learn one strong triple-loop knot, my choice would be


Triple-Loop Knots

the Triple Alpine Butterfly.

4. Triple Bowline If you know how to tie the basic Bowline then the Triple Bowline is easy to remember because it is tied exactly like a basic Bowline. The only difference is that you tie the knot using a doubled rope (a long bight), then you extend the end of the bight until it becomes a third loop.

-1 -2 -3

The Triple Bowline can be tied in the middle of a rope even when you don't have access to the ends of the rope, but I have not been able to find any strength ratings for this knot.

According to Budworth, "The triple bowline can be used to make a sit sling, chest sling or full harness." (The Complete Book of Knots, p.92).


5. Triple Double Dragon This is my variation of the Double Dragon which turns it into a triple-loop knot. First begin tying the normal Double Double Dragon as in pictures 1, 2, and 3. To make this a triple loop, simply take the end of the loop which is on the left in picture 3 and bend it back to the right and push it through the knot (pictures 3 and 4). As picture 4 shows, you now have three loops on the right (these are the main loops) and two loops on the left. At this point I find that it is helpful to tighten the knot a bit before continuing (picture 5). Now take the two loops which are on the left in picture 5 and bring them over to the right and around the three main loops until they are behind


Triple-Loop Knots

the three main loops (picture 6). This is similar to the way that the Double Double Dragon is formed. Bring those two loops all the way around until they lay below the knot (picture 7). You can now change the sizes of the loops fairly easily before dressing and setting the knot (picture 7).

-1 -2

-3 -4

-5 -6

-7

This method makes it easy to convert a single-loop Double Dragon into a double-loop Double Dragon, and to convert a double-loop Double Dragon into a triple-loop Double Dragon.


Triple-Loop Knots

For an alternate method of tying the Triple Double Dragon which allows you to create three or more loops around an object while you tie the knot (rather than after you tie the knot as with the method above), see the alternate method for tying the double-loop Double Dragon.


6. Triple Figure-Eight Loop This is a triple-loop version of the Figure-Eight Loop. To tie this knot, you essentially start with a "slipped" Figure-Eight Loop (pictures 1 and 2), which creates two loops where there would normally have been only one loop (for more on a "slipped" knot, see the Slip Knot). Then take the end of the doubled rope which is sticking up at the top in picture 2 and bring it up and around the main part of the rope and tuck it through the same opening in which you had tucked the other two loops (picture 3). Dress and set the knot (picture 4). Make sure to dress the knot properly so that all of the strands of rope are parallel to each other and don't cross over each other.

-1 -2 -3


Triple-Loop Knots

-4

The Triple Figure-Eight Loop can be tied in the middle of a rope even when you don't have access to the ends of the rope, but I have not been able to find any strength ratings for this knot.


Summary

I haven't seen anything written about the strength and security of the Birmingham Bowline or the French (Portuguese) Bowline, but they have an advantage in that the rope can easily be passed around an object while tying the knot. They have another potential advantage in that you can easily create any number of loops with these knots. One disadvantage is that these knots cannot be tied in the middle of a rope (when you don't have access to the ends of the rope). Another potential disadvantage with the French/Portuguese Bowline is that some of the loops might accidentally change size, which can allow the load to shift dangerously.

The Triple Alpine Butterfly, Triple Bowline, and Triple Figure-Eight Loop are all based on strong knots, so any of these would be a good triple-loop knot to know. However, the Triple Bowline is based on the weakest of these three knots. The Double Dragon seems to rival the Alpine Butterfly in many respects, and the same appears to be true with the Triple Double Dragon as well.


The purpose of this series of articles is to try to boil the thousands of knots down to just a few of the best rope and string knots that can safely be used for a wide variety of purposes. People such as climbers,


Triple-Loop Knots

sailors, search-and-rescue workers, etc., have their preferred knots, but for the average person it is probably "overkill" to try to learn and remember a variety of triple-loop knots. Just as the Alpine Butterfly is my preferred single-loop knot, and the Double Alpine Butterfly is my preferred double-loop knot, the Triple Alpine Butterfly is my preferred triple-loop knot. Sticking with the same basic knot (such as the Alpine Butterfly) makes it easier to remember how to tie a single-loop knot or a double-loop knot or a triple-loop knot when you need them. If you are an "average person" who doesn't need specialized knots (such as the kind that climbers, sailors, and so on, might need), then the Alpine Butterfly family of knots (single-loop, double-loop, triple-loop, and bends) should serve you well in a variety of situations.


Site Map


● Home Page ● Knots Index ● Single-Loop Knots ● Double-Loop Knots ● Triple-Loop Knots (this page) ● Hitches ● Bends ● Miscellaneous Knots ● Decorative Knots


You'll find a Christian ministry with dozens and dozens of articles and answers to many questions that I have received over the years (please feel free to send me your questions and prayer requests!); plus a



Triple-Loop Knots

collection of some of the best self-working card tricks around (no sleight-of-hand required!); plus a bunch of amazing/funny/fascinating/interesting videos from around the Web which are all clean and family-friendly; plus lots of reviews of numerous fun and educational (and free!) computer games that you can download; plus a huge collection of cool science tricks and other fun stuff to try (using things around the house), and more!


Hope you like 'em!

"The Most Useful Rope Knots for the Average Person to Know -- Triple-Loop Knots" URL: http://www.Layhands.com/Knots/Knots_TripleLoops.htm




01/29/2005: Added a new method for tying a Triple Alpine Butterfly. Special thanks to my 10-year-old son Michael for lending a hand!

01/13/2005: Modified some of the wording throughout the article. Changed my preferred triple-loop knot to the Triple Alpine Butterfly, and added a link to the forum of the International Guild of Knot Tyers in which other people have described their preferred knots.

05/10/2004: Added a new method for tying the Triple Double Dragon.04/15/2004: Added a new knot called the Triple Double Dragon.12/10/2002: New article.






the most useful rope knots for the average person to know

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