the jolly good grub guide 2015
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SO_FoodieGuide15_Cover.indd 1 01/12/2014 14:37
Model shown Kl38 — £27,971* Krieder showrooM — 3 Chapel Place, Tunbridge wells, Kent Tn1 1YQ — 01892 619721 — [email protected] — www.krieder.com
*Price shown includes delivery, cabinet furniture, appliances, worktops and VAT
krieder_May_2014_SO FINAL.indd 2 10/06/2014 09:18Krieder FoodieGuide_SOTW _DPS_Dec14.indd 2 01/12/2014 13:55
Model shown Kl38 — £27,971* Krieder showrooM — 3 Chapel Place, Tunbridge wells, Kent Tn1 1YQ — 01892 619721 — [email protected] — www.krieder.com
*Price shown includes delivery, cabinet furniture, appliances, worktops and VAT
krieder_May_2014_SO FINAL.indd 2 10/06/2014 09:18Krieder FoodieGuide_SOTW _DPS_Dec14.indd 3 01/12/2014 13:55
KRIEDER
RShrager_SOTW _FP_Jan15.indd 1 01/12/2014 13:51
ROSEMARY SHRAGER'.__S c 0 0 K
We offer a wide range of hands-on full
and half day cookery courses where you
will learn prac tical skills that you will
use every day.
Enjoy our Chef's Table Dining
Experience on Friday and Saturday
evenings with a different 5 course
tasting menu each week.
We also provide bespoke,
tailor-made packages for:
Corporate events
Teambuilding
Priva te celebrations
Evening events
Our courses offer the perfect balance
of demonstrations, carried out by our
talented chefs, and hands-on cooking.
Day courses finish with a leisurely
three course lunch accompanied by a
glass of wine.
Chefs Rosemary Shrager and John
R ogers fi rmly believe in supporting
local suppliers and producers, sourcing
the best of the season's produce.
ROSEMARY SHR_AGER'._S COOKERY SCHOOL
The Corn Exchange, The Pantiles,
Royal Tunbridge Wells ,
KentTN2 STE
www.rosemaryshrager.com
Cl @RSCookerySchool
() RSCookerySchool
Telephone: 01892 528700 Enquiries:
school@ rosemaryshrager.com
E R y s c
ARE YOU:
• Aged between 16 and 24?
• Currently out of education,
employment or training?
H 0
• Interested in becoming a qualified chef
in as little as 12 months?
"YES!"
WHY? Because we are looking for enthusiastic,
ambitious, young people who have a passion for food and would like to be trained by
Rosemary Shrager and her team of talented chefs, in our new, state-of-the-art, professional
kitchen in Tunbridge Wells.
We are offering both NVQs and VRQs, Level 2 (& 3), all endorsed by East Kent College.
0 L
~ Apprenticeships
~))) Kent County Council kent .gov.uk
.t'.,.( East Kent ~ College
WE STILL HAVE SPACES, SO APPLY TODAY
Contact us to request an application form:
Email apprentices@rosemaryshrager. corn
or call Nisus on 01892 528700 for more information.
O Shragersapprenticeships O RSApprentices
'"n,;"n,;" .rosemaryshrager.com
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
SANKEY’S PUB, OLD FISHMARKET& FISHMONGERS, TUNBRIDGE WELLSDiscover a surprising menu addition at these
seafood havens
ALEXANDER HOUSE, TURNERS HILLImagination is everything at this acclaimed
restaurant
THE DORSET ARMS, HARTFIELDAward winning cattle and seasonal game add
flavour to the menu
CHAPTER ONE, LOCKBOTTOMEnjoy Michelin-starred dining at affordable prices
THE NEVILL CREST & GUN, ERIDGE GREENMonthly menu changes keep the taste sensations fresh
SALOMONS BISTRO, SOUTHBOROUGHExquisite cuisine in an elegant country house setting
THE GOUDHURST INN, GOUDHURSTWinery collaboration leads to exciting new developments
THE CURLEW, BODIAMFind out why this place is full of star quality
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG,CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAYBe tempted by the chef’s signature dish
of braised lamb
THE CAMDEN ARMS, PEMBURYNew innovations mean the food is really
smoking at this pub
THE KINGS HEAD, SEVENOAKSTry your hand at a delicious dish fit for
royalty
THE MARK CROSS INN,MARK CROSSTravel and great ingredients are the
Head Chef’s inspirations
THE CHASER INN, SHIPBOURNEFresh, local and seasonal – the three
keys to success
SPONSORED BY
contents
SO_FoodieGuide15_Contents.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:40
SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
Award-winningWhen Head Chef Neil Wiggins fi rst arrived at
The Spa, he vowed to raise the standards and
has done just that, as The Spa has recently
received a two-Rosette accolade from the AA.
Two RestaurantsFollowing the expansion of the hotel bar
Zagatos to create a new Brasserie, The Spa
now offers locals a choice of two restaurants.
The Chandelier Restaurant offers guests fi ne
dining in elegant surroundings, while Zagatos
Brasserie offers a more relaxed experience.
The décor has a fun ‘mix ‘n’ match’ feel with
relaxing greens and creams, and while the
service is still fi rst-class, the vibe is very much
home from home.
The MenusGuests in the Chandelier Restaurant can
choose from the à la carte menu, or the
seasonal menu du jour, with classic dishes
such as ‘poached lemon sole with cider
mussels, spring onions and crème fraiche’ and
‘roast cannon of lamb, lamb’s kidney,
dauphinoise potatoes and roasted baby
vegetables.’ Zagatos Brasserie offers all the
posh pub favourites, plus sharing platters and
quality steaks straight from the chargrill.
New for 2015With the success of the new-look Brasserie,
the refurbishments are set to continue into
the New Year and January will see the hotel’s
main lounge completely transformed with
more stylish, contemporary décor, yet
retaining that comfortable homely lounge feel.
Afternoon teas continue to be as popular as
ever and we are really excited about the new
lounge scheme.
Spa by NameOK, it’s not exactly food related, but the most
exciting plan of all is the proposed expansion
and refurbishment of Spa Spa. The top secret
plans are being fi nalised at the moment,
however the idea is to create a spa befi tting
the hotel’s name. Keep an eye on the website
for more info!
the spa hotel - tunbridge wellsThe Spa Hotel in Tunbridge Wells is celebrating the win of a prestigious food award and getting ready for
the New Year with a fabulous makeover and planned expansion. We hear about some of their latest develops
from Ant Scragg (pictured) and how there will be even more for customers to look forward to in 2015
CUISINE: Classically based modern British
ADDRESS: Mount Ephraim,
Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8XJ
TEL: 01892 520 331
WEB: www.spahotel.co.uk
NAME: Proprietor Ant Scragg
AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
SO_FoodieGuide15_Spa Hotel_v3.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:32
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
Hello...
Within these pages
you’ll discover a
mouth-watering array
of gastronomic gems
across West Kent and East Sussex.
Being based in our beautiful part of
the world, chefs have access to some
of the best local produce in the
country, a resource that is put to very
good use at these high quality eateries.
When you add our breathtaking
Wealden scenery to the equation, it all
adds up to a spectacular foodie scene.
So, where will your gourmet
adventures take you this year?
Will you pull up a chair in a
picturesque country pub, ready to
tuck into their local, seasonal game
and traditional British dishes? Or are
you in the mood for elegant European
cuisine in a stunning country house
style setting?
A selection of the country’s most
divine seafood is also on the menu,
while at another village hostelry you’ll
find that great food and great wine go
hand in hand. But why choose? When
there’s such an exquisite food and
drink offering right here on our doorstep,
surely we have a duty to try it all...
Welcome to the latest edition of the Jolly Good Grub Guide – we hope you’re hungry!
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Welcome Intro.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:38
SO
What happened in 2014?2014 was a big year for us – we traded
in The Pantiles during a summer for the
first time. The weather was great, we put
on some great jazz, the markets have been
rejuvenated and the food festivals were the
best ever. At Mount Ephraim
we worked hard improving the business
with things we had learned from
our project in The Pantiles. The Seafood
Brassiere underwent a total refurbishment,
with a brief of increasing the quality of the
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
THE PUB & SEAFOOD BRASSERIE
39 Mount Ephraim, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8AA
facebook.com/sankeys
@sankeysRTW
Tel: 01892 511 422
THE OLD FISHMARKET
19 The Upper Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 5TN
facebook.com/TheOldFishmarketPantiles
@sankeysRTW
Tel: 01892 511 422
THE FISHMONGERS
9 Vale Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1BS
facebook.com/SankeysFishmongers
@sankeyfish
Tel: 01892 511 422
WEBSITE: www.sankeys.co.uk
NAME: Matthew Sankey
SANKEY’S - TUNBRIDGE WELLS
SO_FoodieGuide15_Sankeys.indd 182 01/12/2014 15:37
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
How long have you worked here?
I started with Sankey’s in 2004 with a small
sabbatical in 2008.
Describe your culinary background.
I started off as a Kitchen Porter when I was
17 in a 14th century pub, The Blackboys
Inn, where I worked my way up in the
kitchen. I was there for almost 10 years
and was Head Chef by the time I left. I
worked for a few years in Australia and
when I returned Sankey’s were looking for
chefs, so I applied and here I am.
Tell us about your approach to food.
I love using the best ingredients and then
creating something fantastic.
Who’s your food hero?
Keith Floyd – I love him. He was the
original TV chef. Although I suppose he is
to blame for it being fashionable to be a TV
chef these days.
What is your signature dish?
I make a mean Kedgeree, but I like to
consider myself as a very strong all-
rounder. I prefer savoury dishes personally.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people
should try next year?
My burgers! Joking aside, my favourite
thing on our menu is the lobster and crab
platter. Cooked fresh to order, it really is
mouth-watering.
MEET THE CHEFSimon Wilson, Head Chef at Sankey’s The Seafood Brasserie & The Pub Mount Ephraim
dining experience via better service and
environment. It really looks fabulous now.
In the pub we have been at the forefront of
the craft beer revolution in the town, some
of the beers that we have drunk in the last
year have been some of the best I have
ever known!
Did your menu evolve last year and if so, how?Our menus are constantly evolving.
I put this down to three factors: firstly, the
produce we purchase is seasonal and the
fish is wild so we are always at the mercy
of the weather gods and ensuring we are
sustainable. Secondly, our customers’
demands are always changing and we try
to both react to and pro-actively match
this; it’s all about listening to what the
customer wants. Finally, our staff are
constantly developing personally and that
comes across in the food that we produce
for sure.
Tell us about your favourite food discovery of the last twelve months.This might sound strange but I was very
lucky to visit Argentina this year to watch
some rugby and taste some wine.
I stumbled upon the most incredible
burger shop! The place was buzzing and
the burgers were fantastic, they did great
beer too. From a fish side I’ve got to say
that Chefs Harvey and Jack at The Old
Fishmarket have blown me away. I knew
they were good but they have exceeded all
expectations for year one with the quality,
originality and consistency
of their produce.
Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations this year?We are ever so lucky here in
Tunbridge Wells, it’s a vibrant place with
an abundance of food and drinking
establishments to choose from. This
means that we all have to keep on our feet
and make sure the products and service
we are supplying is the very best we can
do and then keep on improving it. There
is no opportunity to lie down here, you
will be eaten alive.
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Sankeys.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:37
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
How long have you worked here?
I joined Sankey’s in November 2013 for the
opening of The Old Fishmarket.
Describe your culinary background.
I trained at Westminster Kingsway, then I
worked in a few restaurants and golf clubs in
the south east honing my skills, before finally
finding my calling here at The Old Fishmarket.
Tell us about your approach to food.
I like to keep it simple. The south east is the
best area for produce so I like it to speak for
itself. However, a little presentation helps it
to get its message across nicely.
Who’s your food hero?
I do love Gordon Ramsey if you’re looking for
a TV chef. But I really admire Georgio
Locatelli as he produces some incredible food.
What is your signature dish?
One of the most popular dishes we have done
at The Old Fishmarket was a steamed Dover
Sole with panko Colchester Rock Oysters
served with a tarragon veloute. It’s all about
balancing the flavours and textures.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people
should try in 2015?
Oysters –100%! I am so lucky to have such a
variety of these amazing pockets of taste
here in my kitchen. It’s not just about the
raw natural oysters, either; they are
incredible when cooked or even smoked.
MEET THE CHEFJack Hone, Sous Chef at The Old Fishmarket by Sankey’s
DIRECTIONS
1) Gently poach the haddock in the milk for about five minutes.
2) Make a roux by melting the butter in a pan, add the flour bit by bit to make a paste and
cook on for about one minute on a low heat.
3) Strain the milk and slowly add it to the roux to make a white sauce. Stir for around 15
minutes or until you get a nice even thick sauce.
4) Then add two handfuls of the grated cheese, stir in and remove from the heat.
5) In a separate pan poach the tiger prawns until cooked – about two mins or until they go orange.
6) In a baking dish (or you can do this individually) layer the spinach on the bottom of the dish, then
7) Add the haddock & prawns before evenly pouring in the sauce. Coat with the remaining
cheese and brown under a hot grill.
8) If you wish you can serve with a poached egg on top.
INGREDIENTS
500g skinless, pin boned
natural smoked haddock
(your fishmongers can
prepare this for you)
200g raw peeled &
deveined tiger prawns
100g unsalted butter
100g plain flour
1pt full fat milk
Palm full of shopped
parsley (flat or curly)
3 handfuls of grated cheddar
4 small handfuls of spinach
Sankey’s Smokie
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF SANKEY’S RECIPES
What’s new for your diners this year?We have a few plans for expansion, but
I’m unable to speak about those right
now. Our pub menu has been developed;
we are known for our fish obviously but
our chefs are very talented and our pub
menu is fabulous. I’ve brought my burger
ideas to the table and Simon and his
team have run with it! I’d strongly
recommend popping in and sampling
our pub menu sometime.
Can you give a food trend prediction for 2015?Whilst earlier I mentioned that we are
so very lucky in Tunbridge Wells, I feel
that there is a trend forming with large
chain restaurants opening up around us.
Whilst this is fantastic for consumer
choice it’s terrible for the local
economy. Local traders buy from local
people, who employ local people who
spend their wages in the local area.
Chains buy from large multinational
suppliers whose profit is not spent
locally at all, and most appear to have
interesting tax schemes too. My concern
is that they can afford to enter a price
war against each other too. Small local
traders cannot. There must be a
balance; whilst there is no law against
competition we must ensure that our
local small traders are looked after by
the local community and authorities.
SO_FoodieGuide15_Sankeys.indd 184 01/12/2014 16:39
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
ALEXANDER HOUSE HOTEL - EAST GRINSTEAD
How long have you worked at Alexander House?I’ve been here for three and a half years.
Describe your culinary backgroundHaving spent over 20 years working in some
of London’s most prominent establishments,
such as The Stafford, I have a deep
appreciation for all elements of food; from
the education in flavours and styles of
cuisine, to the way in which cooking has
evolved over the years and the execution
and delivery of the perfect dish.
Tell us about your approach to foodMy ethos is to champion classic cooking,
which remains at the heart of my food.
I then evolve my dishes with inspiration
that comes not only from the season
but from my present environment.
Imagination is everything and there is
nothing more inspiring than the beautiful
Sussex countryside at my backdoor.
Who is your food hero? My grandmother. She was a pastry chef
who used to visit every Sunday and bake
everything from éclairs to traditional sponge
puddings in winter. She was one of the most
influential people in my life and taught me
to believe in my own standard of cooking
and never be afraid to be playful with
my food.
What is your signature dish?I don’t really have one as it changes all the
time! I like to keep my dishes evolving so
although I have a few favourites, I can’t say I
have one particular signature dish.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try this year? Pork can often be underestimated so
I would definitely recommend our braised
Gloucester old spot pork and crackling,
served in AG’s Restaurant. The meat is slow
cooked in our “big green egg” with bold
ingredients that give this simple dish
a remarkable flavour.
CUISINE: European
ADDRESS: AG’s Restaurant at
Alexander House Hotel, East Street,
Turners Hill, East Grinstead RH10 4QD
TEL: 01342 714 914
WEB: www.alexanderhouse.co.uk
NAME: Mark Budd, Executive Chef
SPONSORED BY
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SO
Tell us about the restaurant’s food ethosOur Head Chef, Simon Brazier, creates
simple yet delicious dishes using as
much local produce as possible. We
source most of our meat from The
Buckhurst Estate. Our fish comes from
Veasey and Sons in Forest Row and is
caught fresh daily from the South Coast.
Describe the type of cuisine on your menuCurrently we have a lot of game, as it’s
in season. We also use award winning
Sussex Cattle and Buckhurst Blue –
Lord De La Warr’s pigs.
What are your ‘must try’ dishes?The Scotch egg with mustard
mayonnaise. It’s made with eggs from
the estate and Buckhurst sausage meat,
then cooked to perfection and still gooey
in the middle. Other favourites include
crab on toast and venison steak served
with stilton mashed potato, glazed
parsnips and a redcurrant jus. Plus,
there’s the venison burger with blue
cheese and pommes frites or grilled
flat iron chicken with rocket salad and
frites, in addition to whole lemon sole
with samphire, brown shrimps and
pommes frites.
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
CUISINE: Traditional English
ADDRESS: Buckhurst Park, Withyham,
Hartfield, East Sussex TN7 4BD
TEL: 01892 770 278
WEB: www.dorset-arms.co.uk
NAME: Bar Manager Alex Bishop
and Restaurant Manager Charlie Blundell
“Our Head Chef, Simon Brazier,
creates simple yet delicious
dishes using as much local
produce as possible”
THE DORSET ARMS - WITHYHAM
SO_FoodieGuide15_Dorset Arms.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:30
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
DIRECTIONS
1) Bring a pan of water to the boil and boil the eggs for six minutes
2) Refresh the eggs by placing in cold water, then peel
3) Wrap with 100g of sausage meat each, making sure you have even
covering all the way around each egg
4) Flour, egg and breadcrumb the sausage-covered eggs
5) Deep fry for eight minutes (this will leave the middle of the egg a little runny)
6) To serve, cut in half and accompany with baby leaf salad and mustard mayonnaise
Scotch eggMakes 4 eggs
INGREDIENTS
4 eggs, plus 1 for egg wash
400g Buckhurst sausage meat,
rolled out to 1cm thick
200g breadcrumbs (chef
recommends Panko)
200g fl our
Splash of milk for egg wash
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
MEET THE CHEFSimon Brazier
How long have you worked here?
I’ve been here since November 2013.
What was your fi rst experience of cooking?
I remember baking with my Nan when I was
a child.
What inspired you to become a chef?
I was motivated into this career by my love
of food.
Where did you train?
At the Royal Wells Hotel, Tunbridge Wells
and day release at Butler’s Wharf Chef
School in London.
What was your fi rst job in the industry?
I became a trainee chef at The Royal
Wells Hotel.
Has a particular chef infl uenced your
career?
I would say Robert Sloane, who is proprietor
and Head Chef at The Royal Wells Hotel.
Have you or your restaurants won
any awards?
The George and Dragon at Ightham
won Best Gastro Pub 2010 in the
South East.
Do you have any specialist skills?
Timing, consistency and prioritising are
among my strengths – I would say I’m a good
all-rounder.
What’s your signature dish?
Ballotine of partridge with celeriac and blue
cheese panna cotta – a special from the
beginning of this year. And the warm pigeon
salad on our current menu.
Is your cooking infl uenced by any
particular region or style?
Not really, I do quite a few classical dishes
but I usually just use whatever style
necessary for the dish I am creating.
What has been the highlight of your career
so far?
When one of my trainee chefs made it to the
fi nals of MasterChef: The Professionals.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
Producing good food and the feedback that
goes with it.
To be a great chef you need to be…
Dedicated and passionate! Food is a
science and you need to be interested
in it to succeed.
“Food is a science
and you need to be
interested in
it to succeed”
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Dorset Arms.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:30
Okay, let’s start with a little
quiz. Where can you get
lunch at a Michelin-starred
restaurant for less than you
might pay at your local gastro pub?
The answer is, not far away: at Chapter
One in Farnborough, Kent. The menu
du jour is just £19.95, but even a normal
three-course lunch can be ordered from
the à la carte menu for just £27; dinner is
£38.50 on Fridays or Saturdays and, on
Sunday evenings, £33.50.
It goes without saying that the food is
exemplary; in fact, I had my favourite
starter of the year there not long ago, but
more of that later.
What really interests me is the quality
of the service. It is, quite simply, better
than many lauded West End restaurants
and hotels, not because Chapter One is
less busy – it does 1,500 covers a week,
which is seriously hard work with a kitchen
brigade of 16 – but because the training is
rigorous and the staff are well chosen.
Our waitress, Karina, a Latvian, floats
through the restaurant and around the
tables, always alert, always relaxed like – to
quote award-winning restaurant manager,
Fred Sirieix – “a gazelle on Red Bull”. When
I ask her where she has worked before, she
names one of my favourite restaurants in
London: Galvin’s Bistrot de Luxe on Baker
Street. It figures.
And so to that starter – jugged hare (£5).
Yes, jugged hare, usually a heavyweight
main meal, gamey and strong, often
matched by a good claret (a Berry Brothers
& Rudd Good Ordinary will do nicely,
thank you). I last had jugged hare at Rules
in Covent Garden, so long ago that I smoked
If you long to dine in a Michelin-starred restaurant, you don’t need to travel to London – Chapter One in Farnborough Common, Kent, offers an award-winning culinary experience right here on our doorstep. And fine dining doesn’t have to cost a fortune, as Erik Brown discovers
Start a new chapter
SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
SO_FoodieGuide15_Chapter One Review.indd 182 01/12/2014 15:27
a cigar afterwards – at the table, in the
restaurant. I haven’t smoked in more than
a decade.
At Chapter One, the jugged hare is
presented in a glass with an espume of
mashed potato on top and with three sticks
of hare satay alongside. It looks like an Irish
coffee and it tastes divine.
Jugged hare is a quintessentially British
dish. Its earthy flavour is up there with the
white truffle as a gastronomic experience.
I adored it as a starter and, at just a fiver, it
was cheaper than the first courses in most
of the pubs I use in Kent and Sussex.
The jugged hare is preceded by an
off-menu sweet and foamy parsnip soup
as an amuse bouche and followed by a thin
terrine of foie gras with duck, macadamia
nuts, fig purée, celeriac purée and tiny
shimeji mushrooms and toasted fruit bread
(£7.95). And that’s before the roast Yorkshire
grouse and pithivier of leg with creamed
curly kale, Jerusalem artichokes and sloe
gin and grouse jus (£17).
Now, it’s really hard to run a Michelin-
starred restaurant. The quality of the food
has to be consistent; the quality of the
napkins, cutlery and crockery has to be
top-end; the front of house staff have to be
exquisitely well trained, and there have to
be a lot of them; and the kitchen brigade has
to consist of trained chefs – not one trained
chef and some guys on an hourly rate – but
all trained chefs.
If you’re trying to do that in Central
London, with London rents, it’s actually
quite difficult to make money at all, which is
why so many chefs become celebrities. They
have to make money out of their brand with
books first, then with TV programmes and,
eventually, a few of them open restaurant
chains emblazoned with their names.
So, how does Chapter One’s Chef
Patron Andrew McLeish manage to run
a Michelin-starred restaurant inside the
M25 at pub prices?
Well, first of all, he and his team work like
crazy. If 16 chefs sounds like a lot, you have
to realise that Chapter One is a seven day
a week operation. And then Andrew goes
for the tastier, less expensive cuts – often
shooting game for the pot himself. The menu
is seasonal too, with damsons and cob nuts
accompanying a warm salad of local wood
pigeon (£5) on the day I was there. So, he
shops cleverly and he shops locally.
So many restaurants these days –
especially chain restaurants, or whatever
they are called – are production lines
in which pre-prepared ingredients are
assembled by a chef and some assistants.
Hold that thought and let’s just go back to
that pithivier of grouse leg and the sloe gin
and grouse jus. You’d have to be a pretty
serious chef to put that together. That’s
not an assembly job; it takes skill, care and
talent. And it’s wonderful, with the pastry
crust on the pithivier as thin as a credit card
and as crisp as a biscuit and the grouse leg
inside savoury and light.
The jugged hare is the standout course for
me, but it nearly loses out to a peanut butter
panna cotta with golden lime sorbet and
morello cherry foam (£5). At the beginning,
the panna cotta is very light and sweet
with just a hint of the salty peanut butter
that strolls slowly in like a bouncer, until
it hits the taste buds with surprising force.
He knows his desserts, Andrew McLeish –
there’s a touch of genius in every one.
Chapter One
Farnborough Common,
Locksbottom, Kent, BR6 8NF
01689 854 848
www.chapteronerestaurant.co.uk
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SOSPONSORED BY
The panna cotta is very light and sweet with just a hint of the
salty peanut butter that strolls slowly in like a bouncer,
until it hits the taste buds with surprising force
THE JUGGED HARE
ROAST GROUSE
PANNA COTTA
SO_FoodieGuide15_Chapter One Review.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:28
SO
What was 2014 like for your pub?It was a busy year for us here at The Nevill
Crest and Gun. We couldn’t wait to start
the New Year as our Christmas in 2013 was
slightly tainted by a six-day power cut
caused by the huge storms. Our customers
were excellent, though – very
understanding and sympathetic. It was
a bit like a soup kitchen here on Christmas Day as we gave away what food we
could to diners who had nothing for
Christmas lunch!
In January we hosted our first Burns
supper with a bagpiper, whisky tasting and,
of course, lots of haggis. We were fully
booked and a great night was had by all;
many sore heads were nursed the next day!
Our next big event of the year was our
Vintage weekend in August. The weekend
was full of excitement, with all the staff
getting on board with some great uniforms
and outfits. Some 30 real ales and ciders
were showcased, along with a gin tea party
on Sunday. The weekend was finished in
style by the kings of swing, The Jive Aces.
The gardens here have been looked after
with passion and style, all thanks to
Graham, our gardener. As the seasons have
changed, the gardens have been mowed
with precision and the borders have been
bursting with colour.
There have been several additions to our
dynamic team here, including our first
Welsh lass, Rebecca Bowen from Loch
Fyne, and Ben Cox, who joins as a career
change from a nine-to-five office job! The
kitchen team continue to be motivated and
led by our Head Chef Jason and Sous Chef
Paul, who bring lots of experience and
knowledge to the table.
How has your menu evolved?It changes monthly and we constantly work
with our suppliers to get the best out of
seasonal produce. We have a traditional
pub-style menu with some more unusual
dishes thrown in for the more adventurous.
Tell us about your top food discovery of last yearMy personal favourite would definitely be
Ras el hanout, which is a spice mix from
North Africa. It’s fantastic in rich, meaty
tagines!
THE NEVILL CREST AND GUN - ERIDGE GREEN
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
CUISINE: British
ADDRESS: Eridge Road, Eridge Green,
Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 9JR
TEL: 01892 864 209
WEB: www.brunningandprice.co.uk/
nevillcrestandgun
NAME: Chef James Hodgson
SO_FoodieGuide15_NevillCrest&Gun.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:25
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
TO SERVE
Panfry the lamb rump in a hot pan, add the
cake and tomato and finish off in the oven.
Reheat The broccoli and plate as pictured.
METHOD
1) Score the lamb, marinade in garlic and
rosemary and place in the fridge ready for service
2) Cut eight beef tomatoes in half, scoop out the
middle and concasse the other two. Finely dice
the shallots and garlic, chop the herbs and
sweat down in a pan with a little vegetable oil.
Once cooked, add the concasse, check the
seasoning and fill the tomatoes with the
mixture. Place in a tub labelled for service
3) Cook the potatoes for mash and, when
ready to crush, add the butter at the same
time. Check the seasoning and add five
tablespoons of chopped mint, mould into 140g
balls and press into cakes. Tray up ready for
service. Blanch once chilled and tub up ready
for service
4) Cook tender stem broccoli
5) Jus. Sweat down the onion, garlic and
thyme and add the red wine. Reduce down by
half, add the stock and reduce down again by
half. Check the consistency, taste and alter
where needed
6) Add all the reduction ingredients into a pan
and reduce by two thirds
INGREDIENTS
1 x 6-7oz square cut lamb rump
10 plum tomatoes
3 shallots
4 cloves garlic
4 sprigs thyme
4 sprigs rosemary
3tbsp chopped parsley
5kg peeled potatoes
3 packs butter
Seasoning
Chopped parsley/mint
Broccoli
10 litres good beef stock
1 litre red wine
2 shallots
2 cloves garlic
MEET THE CHEFJason Hodgson
How long have you worked here?
I’ve been at The Nevill since it opened in
December 2010.
Describe your culinary background
Having trained at York Technical College in
the good old days of City & Guilds, I worked
in a local hotel in the city until I spread my
wings over to the Channel Islands, where I
met up with our Executive Chef, Mike Carney.
Returning to the UK, I worked at Saughton
Hall in North Wales in a fine dining hotel and
restaurant, then moved on to Brunning and
Price, working my way up to Head Chef at
three of our pub/restaurants. I left for a few
years to further ventures at Whiting &
Hammond before re-joining four years ago.
Tell us about your approach to food
Very focused; things are constantly changing
within the industry, so there’s never a dull
moment and no day is ever the same.
We’re constantly changing the menu for
the healthier and allergy friendly diners
and keeping the traditional dishes for the
loyal customers.
Who’s your food hero?
It has to be Rick Stein for his pioneering
approach of selling to the country what a lovely
array of home-grown fish and shellfish we have
to try on and around our shores.
What’s your signature dish?
A nice pink rump of lamb with colcannon
mash, accompanied by tender stem broccoli
and Chantenay carrots.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people
should try in 2015?
More local produce from within our
surrounding county and more unusual
food items.
2014 summer lamb rumpRoast lamb rump with minted potato cake, tender stem broccoli, herb tomato and mint gravyServes 1
Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations?Customers are definitely much more
interested in the healthier foods and we’ve
seen a bigger demand for vegetarian meals,
even by meat eaters. It’s always a challenge
to constantly introduce new, exciting
vegetarian dishes while trying to avoid
goat’s cheese or risotto!
What’s new for your diners in 2015?We’re introducing a more comprehensive and
transparent approach to customers who are
affected by food allergies. The Government
will be expecting all premises to do the same,
but our approach will allow customers to go
online and view our menu and the dishes
with their allergens displayed. This will help
give them peace of mind before they arrive.
Can you give a food trend prediction for the coming year?Our insatiable appetite for new foods and
cultures will continue. I’m a huge fan of low
and slow cooked barbecue meats and grills
and I reckon we’ll see a lot more chefs
experimenting with it.
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_NevillCrest&Gun.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:25
SO
Tell us about the restaurant’s food ethosThe Bistro offers a wide range of
traditional and contemporary dishes
that appeal to all taste preferences.
The Head Chef sources fresh, local
ingredients wherever possible and
uses seasonal vegetables.
Describe the type of cuisine on your menuExotic delicacies such as pan-fried wood
pigeon and lightly spiced duck sit
alongside more traditional dishes like coq
au vin and beer battered cod, while the
dessert menu features perennial
favourites like warm chocolate brownie
and sticky toffee pudding.
From the Bistro’s grill you can select
from a choice of steaks and sauces, or
perhaps try Salomons Estate’s homemade
gastro burger, with smoked Applewood
cheese, spicy tomato chutney, a brioche
bun, pickles and gastro chips. Meanwhile,
the light bites menu includes lighter
options such as a smoked salmon and dill
cream cheese bagel and a Parma ham,
rocket and pesto ciabatta.
What are your ‘must try’ dishes?One dish that comes highly
recommended is our braised belly of pork
in cider, which is accompanied by potato
gratin, roasted apples, braised red
cabbage and a cider jus. Another dish
that has proved popular with diners is the
pan seared salmon with polenta chips,
chargrilled asparagus and gremolata.
SALOMONS ESTATE - TUNBRIDGE WELLS
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
“The atmosphere at Salomons
Estate is a winning combination
of old-world charm and
friendly, attentive service”
CUISINE: Popular European dishes,
sourced locally wherever possible
ADDRESS: Salomons Estate,
Broomhill Road, Southborough,
Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 0TG
TEL: 01892 515 152
WEB: www.salomons-estate.com
NAME: Franck Bellavoine
If you want to savour exquisite cuisine in an elegant setting, look no further than the Bistro at Salomons
Estate, a country house-style venue set in 36 beautiful acres of grounds.
SO_FoodieGuide15_Salomons.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:26
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
MEET THE CHEFDan Yardley
How long have you worked here?
I’ve been at Salomons Estate for over 10
years, beginning as a Chef de Partie. Having
worked under three different head chefs,
I was invited to step into the position
myself in 2014.
Describe your culinary background
On leaving catering college, I did events
catering for the Chelsea Flower Show,
Hampton Court, Wimbledon and Henley
Regatta before fl ying over to the Paris Air
Show, where I worked alongside Albert Roux.
I then spent two years at the fi ve-star
Lanesborough Hotel in Hyde Park. It was an
absolute buzz because you’re all there for the
same reason – your passion for food. It’s
made me who I am today; I’d jumped about
three levels by the time I returned to
Tunbridge Wells.
Tell us about your approach to food
From a very young age I was accompanying
my mum to bakeries and fruit and veg stalls,
so she was defi nitely an early infl uence on
me. That’s one of the reasons I introduced a
‘market menu’, where I’ll source local, fresh
produce, new cuts of meat and fi sh, plus
whatever vegetables are in season.
Who’s your food hero?
I became very interested in the Roux family,
but I’d say that my real role model is Paul
Gayler. He was Head Chef at the
Lanesborough Hotel, where my career took
me just before my 18th birthday.
What’s your signature dish?
My seared red snapper with saffron fondant,
broad bean truffl e purée and a bouillabaisse
sauce. It’s a dish I’m very proud of and it was
a popular choice at the Bistro over the
summer months too.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people
should try in 2015?
If I had to recommend just one dish
from the current menu, I’d probably
say the lightly spiced duck breast
with sweet potato dauphinoise,
roasted bok choi, red plum and
port jus. It has to be experienced
to be believed!
“From a very young age I was
accompanying my mum to
bakeries and fruit and veg
stalls”
Spiced duck breast with sweet potato dauphinoise, bok choi, plums and a red wine jusServes 4
DIRECTIONS FOR THE SWEET
POTATO DAUPHINOISE
1) Finely chop a small bulb of garlic
2) Lightly fry this in a saucepan and add one litre of
cream, then season
3) Line one deep baking tray with parchment paper
4) Peel and thinly slice two sweet potatoes. Layer the
sweet potato in the baking tray until it is about one
inch deep, pour the cream over the potato and place
in the oven at 170°C for about 20 minutes
DIRECTIONS FOR THE SPICED DUCK BREAST
1) Lightly spice the duck breast with aromatic spices
and seasoning
2) Heat one teaspoon of olive oil in a frying pan until
it is almost smoking
3) Fry the duck breast for one minute on each side and
place in the oven for about 15 minutes
4) Just before you serve the meal, oil and season the halved
plum and bok choi. Place under the grill for fi ve minutes
INGREDIENTS
5kg chicken bones
5kg veal bones
2 litres red wine
2 onions
3 carrots
1 head of celery
1 small bulb of garlic
2 sweet potatoes
1 litre cream
1 duck breast
1 tsp olive oil
Aromatic spices
1 head of bok choi
1 plum
What sets your place apart from other eateries?As well as the exquisite quality of the
food and the exceptional level of
service, what really sets the Bistro
apart is its spectacular setting.
Recently refurbished, the Bistro serves
breakfast, lunch and dinner seven
days a week and, when the weather is
fi ne, guests can dine on the broad
terraces and enjoy the stunning views
overlooking the lake. When it’s slightly
more inclement, diners can still
admire the landscaped grounds from
the comfort of the conservatory.
Can you describe the atmosphere?Intimate, elegant, yet refreshingly
unstuffy. The atmosphere at Salomons
Estate is a winning combination of
old-world charm and friendly,
attentive service.
Sum up your restaurant ina few wordsExquisite cuisine in a beautiful setting.
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Salomons.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:27
SO
What’s been happening in the last year?
For a third year running we’ve secured a listing in
the Michelin Eating Pub Guide 2014, which
celebrates the top 550 pubs in the UK – we think
that’s pretty good! Alongside this, we continue to
build The Goudhurst Inn into a sustainable and
successful rural business.
We continue to focus on food and the
surroundings; the terrace looks out over one of
the most beautiful views of the Weald, and our
cosy indoor log fires will keep you warm in winter.
With such versatile space inside and out, we’ve
also catered for weddings, anniversaries, birthday
parties, office events and family get-togethers. We
love hosting a good party, whatever the time of year!
In August 2014 The Goudhurst Inn became
part of Hush Heath Winery, bringing together
two great local businesses that support and
invest in local talent. The coming year promises
to be an exciting time, as further investment is
planned and we will be working to develop the
great food that has always been on offer, while
also building on the wine, restaurant and
hospitality links that promise something
different in this part of England. Watch this
space for what Hush Heath has to bring to the
next stage of The Goudhurst Inn…
THE GOUDHURST INN - GOUDHURST
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
How long have you worked here?
One year.
Describe your culinary background
Modern English with a classic French twist.
Tell us about your approach to food
Fresh and local quality raw ingredients. I’ve spent
a lot of time over the last year training up young
chefs to build on our talent base.
Who’s your food hero?
Alfred Portale from Gotham Bar and Grill in New
York City – a pioneering American chef who blew
my mind and hooked me on the importance of
presentation.
What’s your signature dish?
Pork belly and sticky toffee pudding – need I say
more!
What’s the one dish or delicacy people should
try in the coming year?
I think foodies will continue to try something
new and local and Kent has great things to offer.
Our specials are continually changing, so I’m sure
we’ll have a few unusual offerings in 2015.
MEET THE CHEFIan Hickmott, Head Chef
CUISINE: Modern British / European
ADDRESS: Cranbrook Road,
Goudhurst, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 1DX
TEL: 01580 212 605
WEB: www.thegoudhurstinn.com
NAME: General Manager Lois Dignan
& Head Chef Ian Hickmott
SO_FoodieGuide15_Goudhurst Inn_v2.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:33
How has your menu evolved?
The classic dishes remain firm favourites, but
we continue to evolve with the seasons, using
the best of what our little part of Kent has to
offer: asparagus from Ladysden Farm in the
spring, lamb and beef from Spratsbourne
Farm and game from Taywell Game. There’s
something new every season.
Tell us about your favourite food
discovery of 2014
We continue to be surprised by what
our local producers and craftsmen
provide us with, whether it’s helping
us make our great black pudding,
apple ice cream or fruit juice for
daquiris.
Have you seen any trends or changes
in customer expectations over the
last year?
Diners are loving our sharing boards, be it
meat, fish or vegetarian and our Scotch
eggs continue to be a winner. Customers
expect quality food at a good price and we
strive to deliver this, from our kids’ meals
and Sunday roasts to our bar snacks and
sharing platters.
What’s new for your diners?
Our menus will continue to evolve and
our plan is to build the links with Hush
Heath; having more wine-led dinners
within a specific area of the restaurant
(soon to be expanded and re-modelled),
where you can have a similar experience
to food offerings at the great French
vineyards. We also have plans to extend
the terrace area with pizza all year round
and barbecues for the long, hot summers
(we can always dream!).
Can you give a food trend prediction
for 2015?
Fads and fashions will come and go, but
enduring classic food will remain the
cornerstone and foundation that the food
industry will be built on for a long time to
come. We’re in the Garden of England and
we embrace all things local.
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
Sticky toffee puddingMakes 1 x 1/1 gastronorm tray - Divide by three to make 10 to 12 darioles
DIRECTIONS FOR PUDDING
1) Bring the dates, water and bicarbonate of soda to the
boil, remove from the heat and leave to sit
2) Cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy
3) Beat in the eggs one at a time until combined, then
gently mix in the flour
4) Bring the dates back to the boil and then pour into the
egg, flour and sugar mix, stirring immediately and mix until it
turns into a thick batter
5) Pour into a tray lined with parchment and bake at 160°C
for 40 minutes
DIRECTIONS FOR SAUCE
1) Place all the ingredients in a pan and simmer until it coats the
back of a spoon, then cut the pudding, pour on the sauce and
serve with custard or ice cream – simple, traditional and delicious!
INGREDIENTS
FOR PUDDING
24oz pitted dates,chopped
3 tsp bicarbonate of soda
30 fl oz water
18oz butter, softened
18oz dark, soft brown sugar
3 eggs
24oz self-raising flour
BUTTERSCOTCH
SAUCE
100g butter
100g dark, soft brown sugar
500ml double cream
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Goudhurst Inn_v2.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:33
Chefs are just amazing, aren’t
they? There’s this photo I
have of Andrew Scott, Head
Chef of The Curlew and in it,
he’s smiling, his blue eyes are clear and the
only lines on his face are laughter lines,
those little crow’s feet at the sides of the
eyes. The photograph was taken within
minutes of him telling me that he’d just
worked 13 days of cripplingly long shifts
and that one of his commis chefs had
“disappeared into thin air” because a
relative was sick.
“It’s been hard work,” he had said. And
he looked as fresh as a man just back from
a three-week spa holiday. I guess it’s the
love of the job that does it.
There’s a favourite question I like to
ask chefs: “What are you working on?”
It seems so simple that it’s almost banal,
but if the chef is any good, you can relax,
sit back and listen. And Andrew Scott is
very good indeed.
“I’m trying to do a baked
Alaska,” he says. “I want to
make it fashionable again.
Or Arctic roll. That’s what
I’m working on. For two
people to share.”
Then he’s off, speaking
with passion and clarity
for about five minutes
straight. The conversation is
suddenly strewn with strawberry
bombes, melon pressed with different
alcohols, “posh” chicken, mascapone cream
with black pepper sugar and a lobster cocktail
in a martini glass with an espuma of Marie
Rose. One thing is clear: the affable and
talented Andrew Scott has found a natural
home at The Curlew and he’s obviously loving
every minute of it.
Developed by Mark and Sara Colley – a
former City broker and a research analyst –
The Curlew has only been open in its current
form for four years and Andrew and his sous
chef Neil Bennett have been there for just 10
months. But for those in the know (and
happily, I am one of them), it is already an
institution. It is, in fact, the only place where
the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it again
for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé – it
kind of works at both ends of the meal).
The Colleys got to know Michelin-starred
chef Graham Garrett of The West House,
Biddenden, when they were
running their first hotel/
restaurant, The George
at Cranbrook and they
invited him in as
consultant to help launch
chef Neil McCue to
position The Curlew.
The restaurant picked up
a Michelin star in the summer
of 2011 and after two and a half
years, Garrett told them, “You don’t
need me anymore” and moved on. McCue
followed him last year and Scott came in
from Michelin-starred Mallory Court outside
Leamington Spa, bringing his sous chef
with him.
Scott had previously worked with Simon
Rogan at L’Enclume Cumbria and at Lords
of the Manor in Upper Slaughter,
Gloucestershire. So, he had previous, as the
catering industry likes to say.
“My background is classical,” Scott says.
“But I do like to present things in a modern
way, not chintzy old school. So I keep to the
seasons and I try to use as much local
produce as possible.”
What that means is that his dry goods
supplier is just up the road at Hawkhurst,
his fish come from Rye (he gets to pick the
best as the supplier passes on his way to
Billingsgate fish market), he uses a local
There are tens of thousands of restaurants in the UK, but only 162 have earned one or more prestigious Michelin stars. The Curlew in Bodiam is the only starred restaurant in East Sussex. Erik Brown went along to find out what makes this eatery one of the elite
This place has star quality
SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
SO_FoodieGuide15_Curlew Review.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:31
butcher who can get him “anything” and a
veg man so committed to the cause that
he’s growing Scott some coriander plants,
just for the flowers; coriander is usually
harvested before the flowers develop.
Even the wine list has a local flavour,
with sparkling wine from Appledore in
Kent and Bluebell Estates in East Sussex
and the first ever English bio-dynamic
wine, from the Sedlescombe vineyard just
five miles away.
Mark and Sara are clearly enthusiastic
about Scott’s cooking: “I’ve never worked
with such an energetic and talented group
of people,” Mark says. But they’re quite
modest about the Michelin star. Glad to
have it, of course, but it’s “not what defines
us”, Mark says. “It’s a family business,” he
adds, “serving the local community.”
If it has also become a destination
restaurant, great – the Colleys are really
proud of that. But they like to keep their
feet on the ground too.
So, to the food. I have a starter of perfectly-
cooked mackerel with pressed cucumber (the
cucumber-iest I’ve ever tasted, in fact), smoked
mackerel parfait, oyster and – what was that? – oh
yes, the faintest hint of wasabi (£9). Now, that by
itself is an impressive stunt. Wasabi doesn’t usually
hint at anything; it just hits you somewhere in the
respiratory tract. This is subtle stuff.
My wife orders the potted crab with fennel
cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit
(£9.50). Not given to emotional outbursts, she
nevertheless whispers an audible “oh” when she
tastes the pickled mooli and ginger.
Then for me, the pork fillet and belly with
caramelised onion, walnut and rosemary gnocchi
(£20.50) with tiny, upright cylinders of something
sharp and green – ah yes, local apple – providing
acidity to offset the fatty pork belly and crispy
crackling. Beautifully done.
My wife goes for the Sussex lamb with
cardamom, yoghurt and saag aloo purée (£21).
The lamb, she says, is tender and delicious and
the cardamom yoghurt refreshing and tasty. She
struggles a little with the saag aloo purée – not
really her thing. So, I taste it and like it
a lot; it has a kind of earthiness, an umami flavour,
that complements the meat perfectly.
Then not one, but two desserts: the one
I order (off the “short menu” – £20 for two
courses, £25 for three), olive oil cake with
mascarpone mousse and lemon sorbet, and the
one Scott wanted me to have, mango macaroon
with mascarpone, compressed mango, pineapple
and Szechuan pepper sorbet (£8.50).
The first is excellent, with a lovely light, lemony
sponge and a sharp sorbet. The second is a
standout dish, with the pineapple and pepper
sorbet cutting through the sweetness of the
macaroon and pressed mango. Stunning. Mrs B
agrees – then tucks into a delicious cheesecake of
white chocolate, poached cherries and pistachio
ice cream (£8.50).
Oh, and I indulge in a glass of the Sedlescombe
First Release East Sussex 2011 (£8), so bright and
fresh and fruity that after lunch I drive to the
estate and buy three bottles from the woman
whose husband made it. Don’t you just love this
part of the world?
The Curlew is half an hour from Tunbridge
Wells and the only Michelin-starred restaurant in
East Sussex.
The Curlew, Junction Road,
Bodiam, East Sussex, TN32 5UY
01580 861 394
www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk
The potted crab with fennel cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit (£9.50).
It’s the only place where the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it
again for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé – it kind of works
at both ends of the meal)
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SOSPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Curlew Review.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:31
SO
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG - CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAY
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
How long have you worked here?
I’ve worked for Whiting & Hammond for over fi ve years but
I’ve been at the current site for two months.
Describe your culinary background
I took a two-year Btech National Diploma in hospitality and
catering, and a three-year HND in culinary arts management
at Birmingham University. I’ve worked as a chef in hotels,
banqueting, pubs and restaurants.
Tell us about your approach to food
I use fresh ingredients from local suppliers of the highest
quality, to deliver the best food possible to the consumer.
Who’s your food hero?
Gordon Ramsay, prior to his television corruption.
What’s your signature dish?
Braised lamb breast served with dauphinoise potatoes, red
cabbage and apple, pea puree and red wine reduction.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015?
If anyone gets the chance, they should try pineberries. These
are like strawberries but are white and they taste of pineapple.
MEET THE CHEFSteven Ednie, Chef
CUISINE: British
ADDRESS: Chiddingstone Causeway,
Tonbridge, Kent TN11 8JJ
TEL: 01892 870 318
WEB: www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk
NAME: Chef Steven Ednie
I’ve worked for Whiting & Hammond for over fi ve years but
I took a two-year Btech National Diploma in hospitality and
catering, and a three-year HND in culinary arts management
at Birmingham University. I’ve worked as a chef in hotels,
What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015?
If anyone gets the chance, they should try pineberries. These
are like strawberries but are white and they taste of pineapple.
SO_FoodieGuide15_LittleBrownJug.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:25
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
Rolled braised minted lamb breastServes 4
INGREDIENTS
1 large lamb breast
300g minced lamb
2tbs mint sauce
Seasoning
100g butter
4 sprigs of rosemary
BRAISING STOCK
1 onion, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
1 leek, chopped
1 head of celery, chopped
Bulb of garlic, crushed
300g tomato puree
2 litres beef stock
SAUCE REDUCTION
1 bottle of red wine
Small handful of fresh
mint leaves
DIRECTIONS
1) In a bowl mix together the mint
sauce and minced lamb meat, and
season.
2) Place the lamb breast, skin side
down, onto a chopping board. Along
the centre of the lamb, in a sausage
shape running from left to right,
place the minced lamb mix, leaving
enough space either side so that the
breast will roll later without being
overfi lled.
3) Start to roll the breast from top to
bottom in a long cylinder shape and
tie together with butcher’s string,
repeating along the breast until
tied securely.
Tip: Do not over tighten the string, so
as to force fi lling out.
4) Season the outside and place
in an oiled hot pan. Add the butter
and rosemary and colour each side
of the lamb.
5.) Once the breast is nicely
coloured, put to one side until the
braising stock is ready.
6) To make the stock put all the
ingredients (except for the beef
stock) into a large roasting tray and
cooking over a medium heat for
eight to 10 minutes.
7) Place the lamb breast into the
roasting tray on top of the
vegetables and cover with the beef
stock. Seal tightly with tin foil.
Carefully place into a pre heated
oven at 190 for 3 – 4 hours until lamb
is soft to the touch.
8) Remove from the oven once
ready and leave to cool.
9) When the lamb is at handling
temperature remove the string and
place onto a large piece of cling fi lm
and tightly roll, sealing at both ends.
10) Place in the fridge until set.
11) Strain the braising stock, then
place in the fridge until fat on top
has set and can be removed.
Tip: The method this far can be
made in advance and left in the
fridge over night.
12) Pour the bottle of red wine and
mint leaves into a pan and heat on
high, reducing the liquid by two
thirds.
13) Add the lamb stock to the red
wine reduction and reduce further
until thickened and coats the back
of the spoon. Strain the sauce.
14) Pre heat oven to 190C.
15) Portion the lamb into four
whilst still in the cling fi lm and
place upright in a lined baking
tray. Heat in the oven for 25
minutes. Remove from the oven,
remove cling fi lm and serve with
the sauce.
16) Serve with potatoes and
vegetables of your choice.
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
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SO_FoodieGuide15_LittleBrownJug.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:26
SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos when it comes to foodWe have always offered quality food but
now we are really striving to use as much
local produce as possible in our dishes, not
only to support our local community and
economy but because Kent has some of
the best produce on offer. Everything is
prepared fresh and is the result of
inspiration and product availability - not
process, so the menu changes frequently
depending on what has been grown,
picked or delivered that day.
We have promoted local produce here at
the Camden Arms and we already utilise a
lot of Kent’s best items and we will be adding
much more to our new menus in 2015.
How and when did you get involved in this place?We – James and Carol Cunningham – have
been proprietors at the Camden Arms for
over 12 years and have been in the
catering industry over 40 years. Located
in the centre of the village of Pembury, the
Camden Arms was a challenge when we
first took it over but building its reputation
has been very rewarding. With the
addition of a 15-room accommodation
wing five years ago, this 17th century
coaching inn could again call itself “The
Camden Arms Hotel”.
The hotel brings guests from all over the
world and we have added a few continental
dishes to our menu in appreciation of our
short staying guests. Today James and
Carol are very much at ‘the helm’ but
we’re proud that it is a family run
business, with true family values.
Describe the type of dishes on your menuSimple, stylish dining. Our restaurant
offers a variety of dishes to complement
Kentish produce. We pride ourselves on
creating excellent food using fresh local
ingredients. In the summer months,
you can enjoy dining al fresco on our
sun terrace.
Our menu is available daily between
noon and 9pm and offers simplistic dining
in a casual atmosphere and on Sunday,
we offer a three-meat carvery. No problem
whether you are gluten free, vegan or
The Camden Arms - pemburyCUISINE: Traditional with
international influences
ADDRESS: 1 High Street, Pembury,
Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 4PH
TEL: 01892 822 012
WEB: www.camdenarms.co.uk
NAME: Manager James Cunningham
SO_FoodieGuide15_Camden Arms.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:35
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
vegetarian, just let us know when making your room or
table reservation, as nothing is too much trouble for Chef
and his team.
What are your ‘must taste’ dishes?The Camden Arms’ bestseller is the Sunday carvery – at
under £11 it’s a good reason not to cook a Sunday roast!
But our ‘must taste’ dishes have to include the Sizzling
Fajitas, served with either beef or chicken; the smell as
they are brought sizzling to the table is only the prelude
to the effect on the taste buds!
We are also proud of our homemade puddings and pies,
deeply filled and cooked to order.
What sets your place apart from the others?A good menu, fresh produce and good service are words
used by everyone in this publication and whilst very
important, they are prerequisites for any successful
restaurant. What sets us apart is our whole business ethos:
Innovation – the desire to present local meat, vegetables
and fruit ingredients in new and exciting ways; Quality –
every product we make is made to the highest quality and
standard of presentation; Sustainability – our food is
locally sourced wherever possible, from ethical and
likeminded suppliers; Relationships – we strive to build
good relationships with our customers, colleagues and
suppliers; Enjoy – we simply love food. We want you to
enjoy your experience with us at The Camden Arms Hotel.
Can you describe your restaurant in five words?No, just one – great!
WHAT’S COOKINGin 2015
We are always experimenting with new ingredients, to produce different
taste experiences with classic pub food. Our menu changes monthly to
ensure we’re the first to offer fresh local produce as and when it is
picked or harvested, together with other ingredients sourced from as
far away as France. (Yes, we really do go monthly to French markets.)
We are going back to basics, enhancing and improving our classic pub
dishes, with an emphasis on ‘fresh and seasonal produce’. Returning for
the winter months will be our homemade pies and puddings, with six
different fillings, homemade soup and flavours changing daily. As spring
approaches, locally reared lamb will be on the menu in various
mouth-watering dishes. Our local fish supplier will ensure we have the
prize of the catch, all sourced from the waters of the South Coast.
Summer will see a variety of colourful salads on the menu including
a crab and avocado and a superb salad Nicoise. These will be on the
menu alongside our customers’ favourites, such as the rack of ribs,
with smoked Mississippi or spicy chilli sauce and our home ground
steak burgers.
What changed last year was the installation of a hot and cold smoker,
which we envisage using to develop our menu this year with more
home smoked products. We intend to install a wood burning grill in the
next year and develop more grilled dishes, which we believe is in line
with market trends – local food at good prices.
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SO_FoodieGuide15_Camden Arms.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:35
SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
THE KINGS HEAD - SEVENOAKSCUISINE: British
ADDRESS: Westerham Road,
Bessels Green, Sevenoaks,
Kent TN13 2QA
TEL: 01732 452 081
WEB: www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk
NAME: Head Chef Jonny Gain
MEET THE CHEFJonny Gain
How long have you worked here?
I’ve been here since the pub opened in March 2014.
Describe your culinary background
I had only a few years’ experience as a chef before joining
Whiting & Hammond in 2006, so I’ve learned pretty much all
of my knowledge through the chefs I’ve worked with in the
company. I fi rst joined the group at The Plough, working under
Colin Gilbert, and have moved around different sites since then.
Who’s your food hero?
It would have to be Keith Floyd. I loved his passion for
fl avours and classic cooking techniques.
What’s your signature dish?
I wouldn’t say I have one, but I love making classic British
winter dishes. You can’t beat a nice suet pudding.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people should
try in 2015?
I think everyone should try brawn. It’s basically
all the meat from a pig’s head, plus jelly, which is
then pressed into a mould – delicious!
“I think everyone should
try brawn. It’s all the
meat from a pig’s head,
plus jelly, which is then
pressed into a mould”
SO_FoodieGuide15_Kings Head.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:28
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
Braised oxtail ravioliin tomato pasta, salt beef and fi re roasted red pepper ragù, carrot crisps
Serves 4
DIRECTIONS FOR THE FILLING
1) Dice the carrots, celery and onion
into 5mm cubes
2) Braise the oxtail slowly with the
carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf and
beef stock until you can just pull it
from the bone. Reserve the cooking
liquor and strain
FOR THE PASTA
1) Add all the ingredients into a food
mixer with a dough hook attached
and mix until smooth and elastic.
Leave in the fridge for an hour
before using
2) Cut the pasta in half. Feed each
half through a pasta machine
(setting 0, or as thin as possible) so
that you are left with two long
strips (you will have to work quickly
here to stop the pasta drying out,
so organisation is key)
3) On one strip place 250 to 300g
portions of the oxtail at spaced
intervals and brush around the
portions with egg wash. Lay the
other strip of pasta over the top
and use a pastry cutting ring to cut
out your raviolis. These will need to
be cooked in rapid boiling salted
water for four to fi ve minutes
FOR THE RAGÙ
1) Roast the peppers over an open
fl ame until the skins turn black,
then remove
2) Sweat down the shallots and the
garlic for two to three minutes, then
turn up the heat and add the salt
beef. Fry for two minutes, stirring
continuously, then add the chopped
tomatoes, sliced roasted peppers
and oxtail stock and reduce until a
thick ragù consistency is achieved
3) Add the torn basil just before
you serve and fi nish with the butter
to give the sauce a velvety fi nish
FOR THE CARROT CRISPS
1) Peel the carrots and use the
peeler to slice long, thin strips. Cut
these in half lengthways and fry at
140°C until crispy
Serve and enjoy!
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE FILLING
1.5kg braised oxtail
2 carrots, 4 stalks of celery
1 Spanish onion
1 bay leaf
1.5 litres beef stock
FOR THE PASTA
250g type 00 fl our
8 large egg yolks
1 tsp tomato purée
1 tsp basil oil
FOR THE RAGÙ
2 shallots
4 cloves of garlic
300g salt beef
500g chopped tomatoes
2 red peppers
400ml oxtail stock
Half a bunch of basil
2 tsp butter
FOR THE CARROT
CRISPS
2 carrots
Preparation time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 2-3 hours
Note: This recipe requires the pasta to be placed in the
fridge for 1 hour before cooking
“This dish is packed with intense fl avours. The ravioli itself is the
classic beef and tomato combination, which works amazingly well
with the sweet and salty ragù, while the salt beef adds lovely
texture and gives it a great meaty fl avour. We garnish the dish
with basil and carrot crisps for a nice crunch – it has proved very
popular on our menu when the sun comes out to play!”
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Kings Head.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:29
SO
THE MARK CROSS INN - NR TUNBRIDGE WELLS
SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
CUISINE: British
ADDRESS: Mark Cross, Nr Tunbridge
Wells, Crowborough, East Sussex
TN6 3NP
TEL: 01892 852 423
WEB: www.themarkcross.co.uk
NAME: Head Chef Ed Molesworth
MEET THE CHEFEd Molesworth
How long have you worked here?
I’ve been working for Whiting & Hammond as a
sous chef since we opened The Kings Head in
Sevenoaks back in April. I took over at The Mark
Cross Inn as Head Chef at the beginning of October.
Describe your culinary background
I’ve done many things in my life, all of which have
revolved around this industry. I’ve travelled and love
cooking Oriental foods and utilising spices and
techniques I’ve picked up from India, China and other
parts of South East Asia. I’ve run my own pub and
hotel in the past, but I wanted to get back into the
kitchen full time, which is where my passion lies.
Tell us about your approach to food
It should be natural; you see something and you
want to cook it. I never have a shopping list – I go
to a market and, if I like the look of something, I
then build my dish or menu around that.
Who’s your food hero?
Mrs Beaton.
What’s your signature dish?
I don’t have one. I have a lot of dishes I like and,
depending on the time of year, I bring out an old or
new trusted favourite. I’m particularly fond of
cooking game, especially with it being so plentiful
in the area. I also love Indian cuisine.
What’s the one dish
or delicacy people
should try in 2015?
Venison – it’s great
value, has great fl avour
and is very versatile.
SO_FoodieGuide15_Mark Cross.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:24
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
DIRECTIONS FOR THE PARFAIT
1) Preheat the oven to 125°C. Pour the port into a saucepan and
add the thyme. Place on a high heat and boil to reduce the port to
100ml. Strain off the thyme from the thickened port
2) Place the cleaned livers in a blender with the reduced port and
juniper berries. With the motor running, add the yolks, eggs and
warm clarified butter. Season with the sea salt and black pepper.
Pass this mix through a fine sieve, discarding any lumps
3) Line a standard loaf tin or individual Kilner jars with plastic wrap,
leaving plenty overhanging. Fill with the liver mix
4) Place the tin in the centre of a deep oven dish and carefully pour
in hot water to three quarters of the way up the sides of the tin.
Cover the lot tightly with tinfoil and place in the oven. Cook for 20 to
25 minutes, then peel back the foil and check the parfait
5) It’s cooked when it’s just set, but still a little nervous in the centre.
If not ready, cover again tightly and return to the oven, checking
every five to 10 minutes until done. Remove and leave to cool on a
rack for one hour, then refrigerate until required (at least six hours
or overnight)
DIRECTIONS FOR THE APPLE JELLY
1) Place the vinegar in a saucepan and boil to reduce to around
one tablespoon. Add the apple juice and boil again to reduce to
250ml (1 cup)
2) Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for one minute, then
remove and add to the hot, reduced apple juice. Stir until combined,
then add the calvados. Pour onto the set parfait and allow to set.
Pheasant liver parfaitServes 4
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE PARFAIT
600ml port
5 sprigs fresh thyme
500g pheasant livers,
trimmed of sinew
4 juniper berries
4 egg yolks
2 eggs
500g clarified butter,
melted and still warm
3/4 tbsp sea salt (half the
amount if using regular salt)
1/4 tsp fresh, finely ground
black pepper
CALVADOS APPLE JELLY
100ml cider vinegar
250ml clear apple juice
(reduced from 1 litre)
1/4 recipe pheasant
consommé (250ml)
3 gelatine leaves
1 tbsp calvados
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Mark Cross.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:24
SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E
There’s nothing worse than
eating a dish that has so many
flavours going on that you can’t
tell one from the other
CUISINE: British
ADDRESS: Stumble Hill,
Shipbourne, Tonbridge,
Kent TN11 9PE
TEL: 01732 810 360
WEB: www.thechaser.co.uk
NAME: Head Chef Daniel Curtis
THE CHASER INN - SHIPBOURNE
MEET THE CHEFSimon Brazier
How long have you worked here?
One year and three months.
Describe your culinary background
I started cooking back when I was 15; I was doing
an apprenticeship in a pub and going to college one
day a week. I then moved on to hotels and
eventually went back into gastro-style pubs, always
working with fresh food. I had my fi rst head chef
position when I was 29.
Tell us about your approach to food
It’s always been the same – fresh, local and
seasonal. I try to keep my food simple, not trying to
overcomplicate it and letting the produce speak for
itself. There’s nothing worse than eating a dish that
has so many fl avours going on that you can’t tell
one from the other.
Who’s your food hero?
It has to be Gordon Ramsay. I just love his style of
cooking and the presence he brings into his
kitchens. Plus, I almost swear as much as he
does!
What’s your signature dish?
I’ve never really had a signature dish as such,
but something I do like is game. A dish that
I’ve cooked quite a few times is confi t duck leg
with creamy mashed potatoes, red wine sauce
and crispy seaweed.
What’s the one dish or delicacy people
should try in 2015?
Everyone should try oysters. Not being a great
lover of fi sh, I tried them myself for the fi rst
time recently and they have a simplicity about
them that goes along with my own style of
food – nice and simple. Did I like them? Let’s
just say they’re not for me, but that doesn’t
mean you won’t enjoy them. Put a little
Mignonette (shallots and white wine vinegar)
on them and a squeeze of lemon to help bring
out the fl avour.
“Food is a science
and you need to be
interested in
it to succeed”
SO_FoodieGuide15_Chaser Inn.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:34
G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO
Slow braised ox cheek ragùServes 4
DIRECTIONS
1) In a large ceramic dish, seal off the ox cheek in a little oil.
Once sealed, remove from the pan and place to one side
2) Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook until just
softening. De-glaze the dish with the bottle of wine and add
the chopped tomatoes and bay leaves. Bring to the boil and
add the ox cheek back to the pan. Cover and place in a low
oven at 140°C for three to four hours until tender and falling
apart
3) Once cooked, remove the ox cheek and place the liquor
onto the stove to reduce down to a sauce consistency. Shred
the ox cheek and add back to the sauce. Remove the bay
leaves and season with salt and pepper to taste
4) For the mash, boil the potatoes for 22 to 30 minutes until
soft, then strain, add the butter and mash or put through a
ricer. Add cream, salt and pepper to taste
5) Blanch the parsnips for fi ve minutes in boiling water, then
transfer to a hot oven dish with oil, drizzle with a little honey
and roast for 20 minutes in a hot oven until golden-brown
with a little crisp
6) Cook the kale straight from the bag in a pan with a few
knobs of butter and sauté until bright in colour and starting
to go crispy. Serve the mash, kale and parsnips next to a
good sized portion of the ox cheek ragù
INGREDIENTS
1 ox cheek
1 onion, chopped
2 carrots, roughly chopped
2 sticks celery, roughly chopped
1 bottle red wine
2 tins chopped tomatoes
(home size)
2 bay leaves
Salt and pepper to taste
6 large potatoes
1 pack butter
Cream to taste
4 large parsnips
Honey
1 bag ready prepped kale
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 3 to 4 hours for
the ox cheek, 1 hour for the rest
of the dish
“I enjoy nothing more than a rich
casserole or stew made with the
cheaper cuts of meat that you can
slow braise and then reduce the
liquor to a rich, dark, full-on sauce.
This is a perfect example of what can
be done to a cheap cut to make it
amazing in taste and feed a family for
very little cost. It’s best enjoyed on a
cold, rainy day after a walk to the
pub, drying off in front of the fi re and
sipping on a quality Barossa Shiraz.”
NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES
“Food is a science
and you need to be
interested in
it to succeed”
SPONSORED BY
SO_FoodieGuide15_Chaser Inn.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:35
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