the jewelry guide

8/14/2019 The Jewelry Guide

1/27

THE

JEWELRYGUIDE

2009 Michael Sucar


2/27

This Guide will provide you with useful information andguidelines that will assist you in recognizing, choosing

and buying jewelry all over the world.

International Ring Sizing (UK, Europe, Japan, USA)

Jewelry Measurements

Precious Metals

Common Jewelry Terms


3/27

International Ring Sizing

(UK, Europe, Japan, USA)Diameter: internal diameter in millimeters

Circumference: internal circumference in millimeters

UK Europe Japan USA Diameter (mm) Circumference (mm)

0 11.54 36.25

A 11.90 37.38

0 12.00 37.70

A1/2 12.10 38.01

B 12.30 38.64

1 12.37 38.86

B1/2 12.50 39.27

1+1/4 12.58 39.52

C 12.70 39.90

0.15 1+1/2 12.78 40.15C1/2 0.53 12.90 50.53

0.84 1 1+3/4 13.00 40.84

1.00 13.05 41.00

D 1.15 13.10 41.15

1.50 2 13.21 41.50

D1/2 1.78 13.30 41.78

1.88 2 13.33 41.88


4/27

2.00 13.37 42.00

2.13 2+1/4 13.41 42.13

E 2.41 13.50 42.41

2.76 2+1/2 13.61 42.76

2.91 3 13.66 42.91E1/2 3.00 13.69 43.00

3.42 2+3/4 13.82 43.42

F 3.67 13.90 43.67

3.98 4 14.00 43.98

4.00 14.01 44.00

4.14 3 14.05 44.14

F1/2 4.30 14.10 44.30

4.74 3+1/4 14.24 44.74

G 4.92 14.30 44.925.00 14.32 45.00

5.02 5 14.33 45.02

5.40 3+1/2 14.45 45.40

G1/2 5.55 14.50 45.55

6.00 14.64 46.00

6.02 3+3/4 14.65 46.02

6.06 6 14.66 46.06

H 6.18 14.70 46.18

6.68 4 14.86 46.68

H1/2 6.81 14.90 46.81

7.00 14.96 47.00

7.12 7 15.00 47.12

7.34 4+1/4 15.07 47.34

I 7.44 15.10 47.44

7.97 4+1/2 15.27 47.97

8.00 15.28 48.00

I1/2 8.07 15.30 48.07


5/27

8.16 8 15.33 48.16

8.63 4+3/4 15.48 48.63

J 8.69 15.50 48.69

9.00 15.60 49.00

9.20 9 15.66 49.20J1/2 9.32 5 15.70 49.32

K 9.95 5+1/4 15.90 49.95

10.00 15.92 50.00

10.27 10 16.00 50.27

K1/2 10.58 5+1/2 16.10 50.58

11.00 16.23 51.00

L 11.24 5+3/4 16.31 51.24

11.30 11 16.33 51.30

L1/2 11.87 6 16.51 51.8712.00 16.55 52.00

12.34 12 16.66 52.34

M 12.46 16.70 52.46

12.56 6+1/4 16.73 52.46

13.00 16.87 53.00

M1/2 13.09 16.90 53.09

13.16 6+1/2 16.92 53.16

13.41 13 17.00 53.41

N 13.72 17.10 53.72

13.85 6+3/4 17.14 53.85

14.00 17.19 54.00

N1/2 14.35 17.30 54.35

14.44 14 17.33 54.44

14.51 7 17.35 54.51

O 14.98 17.50 54.98

15.00 7+1/4 17.56 55.00

15.48 15 17.66 55.48


6/27

O1/2 15.61 17.70 55.61

15.76 7+1/2 17.75 55.76

16.00 17.83 56.00

P 16.23 17.90 56.23

16.45 7+3/4 17.97 65.4516.55 16 18.00 56.55

P1/2 16.86 18.10 56.86

17.00 18.14 57.00

17.15 8 18.19 57.15

Q 17.49 18.30 57.49

17.59 17 18.33 57.59

17.77 8+1/4 18.39 57.77

18.00 18.46 58.00

Q1/2 18.12 18.50 58.1218.40 8+1/2 18.59 58.40

18.62 18 18.66 58.62

R 17.75 18.70 58.75

19.00 8+3/4 18.78 59.00

R1/2 19.38 18.90 59.38

19.66 9 18.99 59.66

19.69 19 19.00 59.69

S 20.00 19.10 60.00

20.38 9+1/4 19.22 60.38

S1/2 20.63 19.30 60.63

20.73 20 19.33 60.73

20.98 9+1/2 19.41 60.98

21.00 19.42 61.00

T 21.26 19.50 61.26

21.67 9+3/4 19.63 61.67

21.76 21 19.66 61.76

T1/2 21.89 19.70 61.89


7/27

22.00 19.74 62.00

22.33 10 19.84 62.33

U 22.52 19.90 62.52

22.83 22 20.00 52.83

23.00 10+1/4 20.05 63.00U1/2 23.15 20.10 63.15

23.59 10+1/2 20.24 63.59

V 23.77 20.30 63.77

23.87 23 20.33 63.87

23.99 20.37 63.99

24.28 10+3/4 20.46 64.28

V1/2 24.40 20.50 64.40

24.91 24 20.66 64.91

24.97 11 20.68 64.97W 25.00 20.69 65.00

25.60 11+1/4 20.88 65.60

W1/2 25.66 20.90 65.66

25.97 25 21.00 65.97

26.00 21.01 66.00

26.22 11+1/2 21.08 66.22

X 26.29 21.10 66.29

X1/2 26.92 10+3/4 21.30 66.92

27.01 26 21.33 67.01

Y 27.51 12 21.49 67.51

28.02 21.65 68.02

28.05 27 21.66 68.05

Y1/2 28.20 12+1/4 21.71 68.20

Z 28.77 12+1/2 21.89 68.77

28.99 21.96 68.99

29.12 28 22.00 69.12

Z1/2 29.43 22.10 69.43


8/27

29.49 12+3/4 22.12 69.49

Z+1 29.99 22.28 69.99

30.15 29 13 22.33 70.15

Z+1+1/2 30.69 22.50 70.69

30.81 13+1/4 22.54 70.8131.00 22.60 71.00

31.19 30 22.66 71.19

Z+2 31.31 22.70 71.31

31.47 13+1/2 22.75 71.47

Z+2+1/2 32.01 13+3/4 22.92 72.01

32.26 31 23.00 72.26

Z+3 32.57 23.10 72.57

32.76 14 23.16 72.76

33.01 23.24 73.01Z+3+1/2 33.20 23.30 73.20

33.32 23.34 73.32

33.29 32 23.33 73.29

33.42 14+1/4 23.37 73.42

Z+4 33.83 23.50 73.83

33.98 14+1/2 23.55 73.98

34.33 33 23.66 74.33

Z+4+1/2 34.46 23.70 74.46

34.71 14+3/4 23.78 74.71

34.99 23.87 74.99

Z+5 35.08 23.90 75.08

35.40 34 15 24.00 75.40

Z+5+1/2 35.71 24.10 75.71

36.00 15+1/4 24.19 76.00

Z+6 36.34 24.30 76.34

36.43 35 24.33 76.43

36.69 15+1/2 24.41 76.69


9/27

Z+6+1/2 37.00 24.51 77.00

37.31 15+3/4 24.61 77.31

37.47 36 24.66 77.47

Z+7 37.60 24.70 77.60

38.00 16 24.83 78.00Z+7+1/2 38.23 24.90 78.23

38.54 37 16+1/4 25.00 78.54


10/27

JEWELRY MEASUREMENTS

All Jewelry Dimensions are in millimeters unless noted otherwise.

Rings


11/27


12/27

Pendants


13/27

Necklaces


14/27

Earrings


15/27

Brooches


16/27

PRECIOUS METALS

PLATINUM

The platinum group metals (PGM), comprise six closely related metals: Platinum,

Palladium, Rhodium, Ruthenium, Iridium and Osmium. Platinum has a deep luster and a rich,

white color. It is rarer, heavier and denser than all precious metals and considered to be more

valuable than gold.

Platinum is often used to set the most valuable gems to produce the finest jewelry because it

holds gemstones most securely and it neutral color enhances the brilliance and depth of

diamonds and precious stones.

In the United States platinum is usually marked: PT or PLAT

In Europe, it is marked: 950 or PT950


17/27

Platinum Group Metals (PGM):

Palladium (Pd)

It is a relatively rare and soft, silvery white metal. When used in jewelry, it is alloyed with gold tocreate white gold. It is also used to make setting.

Rhodium (Rh)

It is a brilliant silvery white metal that is used as a plating agent on platinum and white gold to create

a white very hard coating.

Ruthenium (Ru)

It is a grayish-white metal that has a high resistance to wear and is used in the manufacture of jewelry,

porcelain, etc.

Iridium (Ir)

It is a white, brittle and extremely hard metal. The alloy, which contains about 10 percent iridium and 90%

platinum, is much harder than pure platinum. Alloys containing larger percentages of iridium are used in

making precision and standard instruments, surgical tools, pen points.

Osmium (Os)

It is a bluish-white, brittle metal. Osmium and platinum alloy is used for standard weights and measures.


18/27

GOLD

Gold is a beautiful and imperishable metal. It was one of the first metals to be mined

because it commonly occurs in its native form (100% Pure) Pure (100%) gold is too soft, and it

is usually mixed with other metals (gold alloys) to make it stronger and more usable for

jewelry. The metals that are mixed with pure gold for strength can also modify the color of goldresulting in different shades of yellow, white, and pink.

KARATS Indicates the pure amount of gold in the metal. Abbreviation: kt

USA: 37.5% 41.7% 58.5% 75% 100%

USA: 9kt 10kt 14kt 18kt 24kt

World Wide 375 417 585 750 999


19/27

PRICE- The following are some of the factors that determine the value of a gold jewelry

piece.

weight: gold is sold by weight - grams(gr) or pennyweights(dwt), the heavier the piece, the

higher the gold content, therefore it is more expensive.

design: designer jewelry is more expensive, especially if it is a one of a kind piece.

finish: special finishes to the metal such as matte, or sand-blasted finish add to the cost of thegold jewelry piece.


20/27

SILVER

Silveris the most reflective and affordable of the precious metals.

Sterling silveris the standard of quality for articles containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper.

Vermeil is a gold plated sterling silver.

MARKS- percentage of pure silver

General -Sterling Silver

American - 925

European - 935

French - 800

Russian - 88 or 84


21/27


22/27

Cloud

Minor inclusion appearing milky rather than dark or ash like, only minimally detracting from the

stone's appearance.

Color

measures the tint or internal color of a diamond, ranging from colorless to light brown or yellow.

Crown

refers to the upper domed surface above the girdle of a cut diamond. The angle of the crown

between the girdle and the table is considered acceptable at between 30.0-37.0 degrees. Crown

height is considered acceptable when between 11.0-16.2% of the girdle's diameter.

CT or CTS

Stands for total carat weight of singular stone.


23/27

CTW

Indicates the total diamond carat weight of the jewelry item.

Culet

is the end point of the pavilion, finer being considered better, however a sharp point is susceptible

to chipping.

Cut

refers the shape (round, square, emerald, pear, oval, marquis, etc.) and proportions of a cut

diamond.

Depth

is the vertical height of the diamond from the table to the cutlet. Considered acceptable when

between 57.0 to 65.0% of the girdle's diameter.


24/27

Eye Clean

Diamond appears to be free of surface blemishes and inclusions to the naked eye. Diamonds

graded SI-2 or better will appear to be eye clean.

Facets

are the small polished plane surfaces of a cut gem stone. A brilliant (round), full-cut diamond has

56 facets, while stones under 3 points can have as few as 16 (single cut).

Finish

Refers to the quality of the diamond's polish and symmetry.

Fire

Describes the intensity and diversity of the light spectrum (rainbow colors) emanating from a

diamond.


25/27

Fluorescence

Refers to the emission of photoluminescence by a diamond detectable under a black light. Blue

fluorescence can enhance a diamonds color, but other colors are considered less desirable.

Girdle

refers to the edge where the crown and pavilion of a cut diamond meet, marking the maximum

diameter or width of the diamond. A girdle width of between 2.0-4.0% of the girdle's diameter is

considered acceptable. Too sharp or thin a girdle increases the likelihood of chipping.

Girdle Diameter

is the diameter of the diamond at the point where the crown and pavilion meet. Other dimension

characteristics of a cut diamond are expressed as a percentage (%) of the girdle diameter.

Included

refers to the internal defects of a diamond, appearing as ash like flakes, cracks, clouds, or other

imperfections.


26/27

Make

Describes the diamond's cut and proportions.

Pavilion

is the tapered under half or base of a cut diamond below the girdle. The angle of the pavilion from

the girdle to the cutlet is considered acceptable when between 39.7-41.7 degrees. Pavilion depth

is considered acceptable when between 41.5-45.5% of the girdles diameter.

Point

is a unit of weight equal to 1/100 of a carat, 100 points equaling one carat, and written as 1.00

carat.

Polish

Describes the luster of a diamond's exterior finish.


27/27

Symmetry

Describes if the diamond is true to its desired shape and is in balanced proportions.

Table

is the flat top surface of a cut diamond. Table diameter is considered acceptable when between

51.4-66.0% of the girdle's diameter.

2009 Michael Sucar

the jewelry guide

Documents