THEFOODOFMOROCCO

AuthenticRecipesfromtheNorthAfricanCoast

RecipesandtextbyFatemaHalPhotographybyJean-FrançoisHamonandBrunoBarbey

StylingbyDanieleSchnappContents

PublishedbyPeriplusEditionswitheditorialofficesat1364InnovationDrive,NorthClarendon,VT05759U.S.A.and61TaiSengAvenue,#02-12Singapore534167.

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Publisher:EricOeyAssociatePublisher:ChristinaOngEditors:PhilipTathamandJocelynLauTranslator:VincentVichit-VadakanProduction:VioletWongandChanSowYunPhotocreditsAll foodand locationphotographyby Jean-FrançoisHamonAdditionalphotosbyLaMaisonArabe(ThierryLaureut),p.8;MagnumPhotos(BrunoBarbey),pp.2,6-7,10,12,14-15,17,19-21,24-25,26;andValerieMillet,p.22.

AcknowledgmentsThepublisherwishestothankthefollowingfortheirgenerousassistance:MrHoCheow Teck, Honorary Consul, Consulate of the Kingdom of Morocco,Singapore;BjörnConerding’s,UrsulaHaldimann,andEnijaLunaofRiadEnija;Mohamed Harda (hôtel Le Littoral), N’guyer Hj Mustapha B. Hj Omar(Marrakesh),Liwan, Siècle,Médina,TerredeSable,Raynaud,Christofle,Baya,Mokuba,Colline des Potiers, Fée d’Herbe;MonetteAline, StephanieBertrand,Sandrine Duvillier, Joël Puentes, Fabrizio Ruspoli (La Maison Arabe), andSamualRodany.

ThevalleyofTinerhir,eastoftheHighAtlasMountains.

Contents

PARTONE:FOODINMOROCCOIntroduction

TheRichesofaGenerousPastWomenandDadas

GrandImperialCuisineFoodandReligion

MoroccanHospitalityAllRoadsLeadtotheSouk

PARTTWO:COOKINGINMOROCCOTheMoroccanKitchen

CookingMethodsMoroccanIngredients

PARTTHREE:THERECIPESSoup,Salads,andBreads

MeatPoultryandGameFishandSeafood

VegetablesDessertsDrinks

Index

AnimpressivespreadoftastyMoroccansnacksandappetizers.

T

PartOne:FoodinMoroccoMoroccancuisinehasbeennurturedbycenturiesofMediterranean

influence

hehistoryofMoroccohasalwaysbeencloselyintertwinedwiththehistoryoftheMediterranean.Asaveritablecrossroadsofcivilizations—anasylum

for the Andalousian Jews and Arabs who were chased out of the kingdom ofGrenada at the end of the 15th century; later a French Protectorate until itsindependence in 1956—Morocco offers an exceptional example of generosityand harmony. This multifaceted country reflects diverse regional, ethnic, andsocial influences, all ofwhich left theirmark on its past. It is this variety thatgives Moroccan cuisine its unparalleled reputation. Moroccan cuisine isconsidered to be one the finest in the world and some of its most celebrateddisheshavejustlytakentheirplaceamongtheculinaryclassicsoftheworld.

PortersfromTelouetcarryingcouscousandbreadtoadiffa(banquet).

The “Isle of the Sunset,”Djerirat-al-Maghrib as the firstArab geographersnamed the land that would becomeMorocco, offers the traveler very diverselandscapes.First,thereistheAtlanticOceanlappingtheshoresinthewest;thentherearetheAtlasandRifMountainsthatencloseavastamphitheaterreachingfrom the southwest to the northwest ofMorocco; further south, the immensedesertsthatarestillinhabitedbynomadicpeoples;andfinallythecentralregionsthat spill out to the oceanwhere alternating plateaus, plains, and valleys have

favoredthedevelopmentofcultureandtheriseofgreatcities.ThefirstinhabitantsofMoroccoweretheBerberswhowereinvadedbythe

OmeyyadArabdynastyofconqueringwarriors.TheirempirereachedfromtheIndustotheshoresofnorthwestAfrica.TheybuiltMuslimSpainandcreatedagreat civilization that reignedover the southernhalfof thepeninsulaandoverAndalousiainparticular.

In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the Almoravid dynasty of Berbers,followedbytheAlmohadBerberdynasty,succeededtheOmeyyadsasrulersoftheMuslimterritories inNorthAfricaandSpain,andwereresponsible for theunificationofMorocco.

ThesymbolofMarrakechandofMoroccoasawhole, JemaàelFnaSquarebustleseveryeveningwith foodstalls selling skeweredmeat, soups, snails,andmuchmore. Jugglers, fire-eaters, snakecharmers, storytellers,andmonkeytrainersaddtothenightlyspectacle.

Sub-SaharanAfricaalsoleftitsmarkonMorocco,tradingitsgoldandotherriches: the caravans that converged on the North included large numbers ofwomenfromMaliortheSudanwhowouldbecomethepeerlessdadas,thecookswhoholdthesecretstotheMoroccankitchen.

It is this social andgeographicaldiversity, and thepeaceful cohabitationofdifferentethnicgroups,thathasenabledsuchafinecuisinetoevolve.

From north to south, Morocco offers travelers a wealth of contrasting

landscapes.FromtheharshwintersoftheRifMountainstotheblazingcaressoftheSahara,eachregionhasdevelopeditsownwayswithfood,eveniftherearemany elements that are shared from one province to the next. Mechoui(barbecuedlamb)orkessra(bread)maybefoundineveryregionofthekingdombuttherecipeshavebeenadaptedtosuittheconditionsinwhichtheyaremade.

Take couscous—the national dish—for example. In the countryside, theruggednessofeverydaylifeimposesasenseofhumilityinthepreparationofthedish: dried fava (broad) beans replace garbanzo beans (chickpeas) while driedmeat(gueddid)replacesthetenderer,subtler,andmoreexpensivefreshlamb.

The coastal regions have developed their own original couscous calledkasksoubaddaz,inwhichdriedsweetcornreplacesthetraditionalsemolina.Inaddition,fishfromtheMediterraneanorAtlanticenrichesthedish.

Austeredesertlifealsocontributesitsowntouch.Intheregionswheremanmust often content himself with a few dates and a little milk, couscous isaccompaniedby small freshdates (kuran) that arebakeduntil almost candied.Thereare evenvarietiesof couscousmade frombarleyor rice, again reflectingtheheritageofthedadas.

In the furthermost regions,meat is rare and dishes are invariably flavoredwithspices.Here,visualappearanceisparamount.Allthesensesarecalledupontoappreciatetheseattractivedisheswiththeirheadyaromas.Cooksareasskilledinmarryingtastesastheyareinassemblingcolors.

Theresultisacuisinethatisfestiveandsensual.Someclaimitevenpossessesmedicinalqualities.Arabdoctorshavealwaysmadeuseofcertainfoodstocuretheirpatients,withoutlosingsightofthequestionoftaste.Oneofthem,Al-Rasi,hitupontheideaofcoatingmedicinaldecoctionsinsugartomaketheremedymorepleasant.

ReligionhasalsoplayeditspartinshapingtheeatinghabitsoftheMoroccanpeople. Religious directives addressed the issue of food early on and certainrestrictionscameintoforce.Porkisforbidden,asisanyanimalthathasnotbeensacrificed in a religious rite—Jews refer to this sanctified meat as “kosher,”Muslimscallit“halal.”Despitetheirsolemnity,religiouscelebrationsarealsoatthe rootofanumberoforiginal recipes thatare servedat specific timesof theyear. For example, it is with harira that the fast imposed by the month ofRamadan is broken every evening. This soup, both delicious and nourishing,soothes the hunger of the day andbringsmembers of the family together.On

theseevenings,andmuchtothedelightofthechildrenpresent,pastriessuchasgrioch,shebbakiya,selou,andsfenjiarealsoserved.

It is in the great imperial cities that theMoroccan art de vivre reaches itszenith.Notethewordsofacivilservantfromthefinanceministryin1885:“Thusat last, Great Chamberlain, will the preparations to welcome the Sultan beconcluded. No fewer than thirty-three dishes will follow: salads, couscous,pastilla, tagineofpoultry,meat, fish [...].Scoundrels frombackwaterprovinceswill be left speechless before such abundance andmagnificence and they willadmirewithnearreligiousdevotionthewhitebreadservedfortheoccasion.”

Largemeals,ordiffa,followanimmutableritual:saladsareservedoneafterthe other and thenmake way for the famous pastilla (pie) of pigeon. This isfollowed by mechoui (barbecued lamb), various tagine (stewed dishes), thecouscous,and,finally,mouth-wateringpastries.

ThisshopintheAïtOurirsouk(market)eastofMarrakechofferstaginescookedoverkanounes,akindofdaycauldron.

A flask of scentedwater is always passed among guests so theymaywashtheirhandsandrinsetheirpalates.Finally,guestsenjoyaglassofminttea, thegratifyingconclusiontoanygreatdiffaworthyofthename.

Opening the doors toMorocco,we enter aworld of tastes and colors thatreveal great richness and incomparable skills. In doing so, we perpetuate anauthentictradition,arefinedandunequaledcelebrationofthesenses.

Thediningroomofatraditionalrestaurantlookingontoapatioplantedwithorangetrees.

H

TheRichesofaGenerousPastMorocco’ssumptuoushistoryofcookinghasplaced

thecountryontheworld’sculinarystage

istory has rarely provided a better example of people living in sucheffortless communion thanmedieval Andalousia. Back then, Christians,

Jews,andMuslimssharedthesamelandsandthesamewayoflife.Eachgroupdeveloped its own faith, and art rose to the heights of grace. O blessedAndalousia,foratimetheMediterraneanblewawindofpeaceontoyourshores.Butattheendofthefifteenthcentury,thispeacewasirrevocablyshatteredwhenthe Catholic kings from the north broke the truce and forced the Jews andMuslimstochoosebetweenconversionorexile.

Banished fromSpain, some took refuge inNorthAfrica,perpetuating theirlong traditionofpeaceful cohabitation.Their food,music, anddresswereverysimilar.Admitedly,inthekasbahofAlgiersorinthealleywaysofMarrakech,theJews had separate quarters reserved for them, but everyone lived together ongoodterms.Withtheirsharedhistory, it isdifficult todaytounravel thebondsthatuniteJewsandMuslims.Asareflectionofthishistory,Moroccancuisineisaveritablelessoninsharing,curiosity,generosity,andharmony.

TheregionalcuisineoftheBerberswasalreadyinexistencewhentheMuslimArabsarrived.Later,thedadas(femaleslaves)fromBiladAl-SudanandtheJewswho were banished from Spain each, in turn, enriched the culinary art ofMorocco.Despitethemlivinginclosequartersandaccumulatingculinaryskills,manydishesretainedtheiruniqueness.

I remember thatmymotheradoredeatingrkak (matzo,unleavenedbread)thatour Jewishneighbormade.Wheneverourneighborcould, shewouldgivesome tomymother,whowouldofferherownhomemadebread in return.Asthey enjoyed each other’s breads, they traded their baking secrets. But sinceneither was ever completely successful in making the other’s recipe, theycontinued toexchange theirbreadsas theyhadbefore.Our tablewas richand

varied with Jewish cuisine distinguishing itself through its pastries and thesubtletyofitsbreads.

Unlike in other regions where Ottoman occupation resulted in thedisappearanceoflocalculinarytraditions,Moroccancookingwasgentlyimbuedwith the influences of foreign cuisines. The exiles who arrived from Grenadawerewarmlywelcomedand,inthesamevein,Africanslavesfromthesouthweregenerallywelltreated.

Noborderisimpenetrable.AtthenortheasterntipofMorocco,thetownofOujda faces that of Tlemcen, in Algeria. For centuries, travelers crossed theborder in both directions carryingwith them their foods and culinary skills—their invisible heritage—thus rendering the exact origins of many dishesimpossibletodetermine.

Despite the difficulties in tracing the culinary history ofMorocco, there isoneunwaveringfact:only thecookingof theancientcommunitieshas foundaplace andmadea lasting impressionamong thepeoples it encountered. In thenineteenth century, Europeans imported new utensils and products but theirinfluenceisonlyveryrecentbecause,asitmustberemembered,theirinteractionwiththelocalswaslimitedtopurelyadministrativeaffairs.

ABerbershepherdleadshisflockthroughtheAitBouguemezValleyintheHighAtlasMountains,wheremostofthecountry’ssheepandgoatlivestockcomefrom.

InanAlgeriannovel, a fellah (or farmhand) recallshowhehadnever seensugaraswhiteasthatbroughtbyAmericansoldiersduringWorldWarII.Atthetime,suchaproductwasonlyavailableontheblackmarket.Itwasonly inthe1970s that French cuisine took hold here, with hors d’æuvres, sweets, and

remarkablepastries.Thebakeriesthatmaderoundbreadsawproductiondropinfavor of carefully calibrated baguettes. Even the sfenjis—fritters sold on thestreetswhichchildrendelightedin—havebeensupplanted.

Asinmanycountrieswherecookingbenefitsfromtheprivilegeoftradition,goodrestaurantsarerareinMorocco.Ifatravelerisnotinvitedtothetableinaprivatehome,hewillleavewithanindifferentimpressionofMoroccancuisine.Largehotelsprefertoserveindefinableinternationalcuisinetopleasethemasses,rather thanoffer traditional fare thatmightupset theundiscriminating tourist.Andthatishowthegourmetcouldmisstheroadsthatleadtothedelicateflavorsof a pigeon pastilla or a patiently simmered tagine of apricots and pine nuts.Unless,thatis,hemeetsaMoroccanfamilywhowilltakeituponthemselvestodefendtheculinaryhonoroftheircountry.

ForMoroccancuisineisinfactfamilycooking.Itdemandsthecommunionof familymembers for the traditional dinner at homeor, less frequently, for awedding,abirth,orabaptism.Each familyadds itsownpersonal touch, somejealously guarded secret only handed down frommother to daughter. The artrequiresbothskillandmemory.MostolderMoroccanwomenarenot familiarwiththewrittenword.Moroccobelongstoacivilizationwheregivingone’swordisworthmorethanapieceofpaper,wherespeakingisasurersignaturethancanbemadewiththeinkofapen.

So we run the risk of seeing dishes that formerly enjoyed widespreadadmiration disappear. Tastes change, as do methods of cooking andconservation.Timeworksfasterthanathoroughbredfromtheroyalstables;thedadasaredisappearing,andwiththem,theirvastculinaryknowledge.

ThedominantrolesplayedbyEuropeandtheUnitedStatesintoday’sworldarena greatly influences the way of life in the other continents. If traditionalMoroccanfareisnotoftenfoundinrestaurantsinMorocco,itisbecausewhenMoroccansgoouttoday,theyareseekingfoodthatisnewanddifferent.

Today, rice ispart of thediet inmanyMoroccanhouseholds, andketchupandCoca-Colaalsohavetheirplaceonthekitchentable.Insomeplaces,pastillaisevengarnishedwithChinesenoodles!

It ispointless toremainclosed toall foreign influences—an impossible featanywayinthefaceoftheunstoppableprogressionofglobalization—butchangesshouldbemadewithrespectforthebalanceofadishtopreventitbecominganungainlyamalgamofincompatibleparts.

Out of respect for bread, itmust not be touched by a knife,whichwould be considered anact of violence.Breadshouldbebroken.FoodthathasbeengivenbyGodandblessedinHisnamebeforethemealshouldnotbedegradedbysuchaninstrument.

Apart from a few notable exceptions, it is comparatively difficult to find alargenumberof goodMoroccan restaurantswithin the country.Paradoxically,thesituationisquitedifferentabroad.IntheUnitedStates,France,Britain,andthroughout theworld, therearemanyexcellenteateries that, for themostpart,respecttheMoroccanculinarytraditions.Moroccancuisineis,withoutdoubt,agoodexport.

However, it would be a mistake to claim that one must travel outsideMoroccotoenjoytraditionalMoroccanfood.TheMoroccansarenotedfortheirhospitality, so do accept all invitations to visit Moroccan homes, join theinhabitants at their kitchen tables, and share in their simple, subtle, and verytastyrecipes.

ThegreattraditionofstreetfoodisperpetuatedbythewomenofMorocco.

I

WomenandDadasMoroccancuisineisessentiallyafeminineart

nMorocco, cuisine is first and foremost women’s business. In Moroccanculture,menarestronglyadvisedtostayawayfromovens,orrisklosingtheir

virility.Moroccoisacountryoforaltradition,eventhoughprogressandeducation

aregradually reachingacross the immense territory.Here,knowledge,culinaryor otherwise, is dispensed by word of mouth, from mother to daughter. So,should you be invited into a Moroccan home and the mistress of the houseallowsyoufreereignaftertheindispensablemintteaceremony,youwillnotseeanybooksonthesubjectoffoodandyouwillcertainlynotfindanyrecipebooks.

We have seen thatMorocco is rich in its varied populations. The Berberswere the first inhabitants. Several ethnological studies have shown that Berberwomen worked the land, harvested, picked, and did the cooking themselves.Clearly our culinary roots go back to cultures from pre-Islamic times (NorthAfricawas the larder of theRomanEmpire) and can be traced to local savoirfaire.Sincethattime,Moroccohashadclosecommercial tieswithcountries inthe south of the continent; sub-SaharanAfrica provided gold, salt, and slaves.Trade reached its height under the green banner of Islam and became aflourishingcommercethataffectedthewholesocietyincludingthecuisine.

Desert-dwellingnomadwomenpreparecouscous,thenationaldishofMorocco.

Brutal import of servant populations was quickly replaced by peacefulsolutions,anditwasusuallythroughtradethatabundantsuppliesofslavesweresent to themarket ofDar al-Islam, the house of Islam. InMorocco,male andfemale slaves came primarily from Sudan.Many had been bought byTouaregtradersforafewpiecesofgoldandsomescrapsoffabric;othershadsimplybeenrounded up on the banks of the Niger. They instructed the captives in therudimentsofArabic and theprinciplesof Islam (which increased theirmarketvalue)beforeleadingthemtoMoroccanmarketswheretheyweresold.

Wedonotknowmuchabout the livingconditionsof the first sub-SaharanAfricanslaves.Observersconcludethat,atleastafterthenineteenthcentury,theydidnot suffer at the hands of their employers.Themasters even tended to bemorehumanewithsub-SaharanAfricanslavesbecausethoughoriginallypagan,theyquicklychosetoconverttoIslam.

Femaleslaves,knownasdadas,quicklybecameindispensable,andwereevengiven the chargeof young children, forwhom theirdadas remain an indeliblememory.Boundtoslaveryduringthelifetimeoftheirmasters,someofthedadasstayedoninthehouseoftheheirswhenthelatterdied,tocontinuedoingwhattheydidasslaves,thoughhenceforthasfreewomen.

Mouloud,oneof themost importantMuslimholidays,celebrates thebirthof theprophetMohammed.It ismarkedbyprocessions,dancing,andfeasts.

Almostallfemaleslavesweredestinedtoperformdomestictasks.However,throughtheattentionofamerchantorarichmaster,afew,thoughttobegood

learners,receivedathorougheducationinmusicorevenliterature,beforebeingsenttotheharemsofmanyanOrientalist’sfancy.

Qualified cooks were sold for very large sums. Restrictive and strictregulationsweresetsothatthecooks’instructionconformedtothewishesofthepalace.Overthecourseofseveralyears,thecookswerefed,housed,andtraineduntiltheyperfectedtheirknowledgeandskill.Thetrainingperiodwascrownedby a sort of diploma, a certificate with the slave’s name and her culinaryaptitudes.Itcomesasnosurprisethattheseslavescommandedsuchhighprices.

OtherthantheoriginalcontributionsfromBerberculture,Moroccancuisineis largely made up of the heritage of the dadas whose numbers are nowdwindling.Theheightofironyisthatthesewomenwhoseonlywealthwastheirstatusasaslavehavebecomethemastersofaninestimable,delectabletreasure.When adada is nomore, awhole chapter of our culinary heritage is lost. Toborrow the words of African writer Hampaté Bâ: “When one of them passesaway,itisalibraryburning.”Ithasbecomeurgenttorecordalltherecipesandkitchenhintsof thesewomen inorder topreserve theirmemories,whichhavebeenjealouslyguardedinhouseholdkitchens.

Heiressestoanancientknowledge,thesewomenhaveacquiredrealpowerinthe home. It has been one of the onlymeans at their disposal to demonstratetheircompetenceandthehourstheyhavespenttendingtheirovensmaysoonbelostforever,aswillapartofourculinarymemory.

Untilrecently,womenwerekeptawayfromtheclassroomsotheyderivedtheirpowerfromcooking.

S

GrandImperialCuisineTheartandsplendorofMoroccancookingisinthefabledcitiesofRabat,Fes,Meknes,andMarrakech.

ince the seventeenth century, no fewer than four imperial cities have laidclaim to being the capital of the sherifan empire ofMorocco. Rabat, Fes,

Meknes,andMarrakechareallnamesthatringoutassplendorsofthepast.Eachwasthecapitalinitstimeandtheyhaveneverceasedbeingrivals.Allhavelaidclaimtotheirownstylesofarchitecture,musicand,ofcourse,cooking.

Marrakechwas founded in the eleventh century byBerber horsemen fromsouthern Morocco, under the leadership of Youssef Ibn Tachfine whoestablished the Almoravid dynasty, before being conquered by the AlmohadsultanAbdal-MumininAD1147.ThecityfirstoweditsfametothefactthatitwasonthetraderoutefromTimbuktutothenorth,usedbycaravansladenwithspicesandgoldcoins.Today, thecuisineofMarrakech isnotably richand isareminderofthoseluxurioustimesofold.Itisasomewhatostentatiousfarethatispresentedtoforeignerswhoflowthroughthegatesofcity.

Tanjia marrakshia is a dish made by men for men. This meat dish takes the name of the tanjia, or

eartherwareamphora,inwhichitiscooked.Sealedwithpaperandstring,theamphoraisbakedforaslongasfourhours.

Thesouks(markets)areunforgettable.Theyareburstingwithspicesandyoucanstillpurchaserealraselhanout,thefabulousalchemyoftwenty-sevenspicesthatisalmostimpossibletofindtoday.Itisalsothecityoftanjiamarrakshia,adish initially served only to unmarriedmen, which has gradually become thesymbol of the local cuisine. There is also chickenwith nigella seeds, couscouswithsumach,andmezgueldi,atagineoflambwithcaramelizedonions.Addtothedelightsofthepalatevestigesfromthepast.VisittheKoutoubiamosque,thebeacon of Almohad art, the famed square Jemaà el Fna, the koranic schoolMedersaBenYoussef,thegardensofMenara,andtheoldmedina.

Fes, founded byMoulay Idriss, was the refuge forMuslims and Jews whowereforcedoutofAndalousiabeginningintheninthcentury.ThelastrefugeesarrivedinthelabyrinthinecityinAD1492,asthefinaltearsfellonthecheeksofthelastsultanofGrenada,Boabdil,whowasdefeatedbytheCatholickings.Fesel Jedid, a livingmélangeof cultures,wasdeclared capital of the empire inAD1250. In thedazzlinghomes that conceal theirbeautybehind thehighwallsoftheoldcityofFes,refineddishesarepresentedwithstyleandgrace.ThecuisineofFes resembles thatofTlemcen, a sharedheritage fromAndalousiaofwhichboth cities are proud. Fes has its lamb and squash tagine with honey; itsvermicellicouscouswithpigeons;itsvariousrecipesforcarrots,savory,sweetorwith cumin; its pigeon pastilla; and its partridge couscous. A must-see is theKaraouiyine mosque, the most prestigious Arab Muslim university of themedievalworld,builttothegloryofAllahintheninthcentury,wherepreciousmanuscripts from the libraries of Grenada, Seville, andCordoba found refugeafterSpainfelltotheReconquista.Don’tmisstheDanansynagogue,builtintheseventeenth century in themellah, the Jewish quarter, or the marvelous souk(market).

Riadsareeleganthomesdiscreetlynestledintheheartofmedinas,whichhouseacentralpatiodecoratedwithafountain.

AfountaininanoldresidenceinFes.

Meknes, the former capital ofMoulay Ismael, theAlawite sovereign, is theleast well-known of the four imperial cities as a tourist destination.Modestinsize,Mekneshasretainedthelanguorthatiscustomaryinprovincialcities.Inacity with a large Jewish population, tolerance reigns. And the cuisine is aconsciousreflectionofthisopenness.IfitistruethattheJewishcommunityhasits own recipes, like chicken pâté, potato pastilla or stuffed mutton intestine,MuslimswerealsoproudoftheirowncuisinethatwassimilartothatofnearbyFes.ButinhabitantsofMeknesaresupposedlystingywiththeirwealthanditisnoaccidentthatoneoftheirspecialtiesiscalled“thehenhasflown.”Guestsarepromisedadishofchickenandgarbanzobeansbutwhatasurprisetoseeplatesservedonlywithbeans!Whenthehostisaskedwherethemeatis,heinvariablyrepliesthatthehenhasflownoff.

Rabat, the modem capital, has attracted many guests to its table. If thebazaars are not as showy as those of Fes orMarrakech, it is because the city

preferscalmandmodernity.Herereignsthecuisineofthemakhzen,theofficialcuisinethathastiestoeveryregionofMoroccoandtheneighboringcountries.Home cooking, rich and varied, is in everyway astonishing. Some recipes arecarefullyguardedsecretslikethefamousbalfarkhcouscousmadewithseabass.

Acoastalcity,RabatsharesthesecretsoftheseawiththeothercoastaltownsofAssafiandEssaouira,butRabathasnoequalwhenitcomestocookingshad,afishsimilartothesardine.AssafiandEssaouiraarefamousforservingbaddaz,couscous made from sweet com, garnished with conger eel heads, and friedmorayealwithhoney.

InRabat, youwill also findkaak,adelicious cake,orzemata, adishmadewith seeds (inOujda, the townon theAlgerian border, it ismadewith youngwheat and covered with figs.) Although the city of Tetouan is not strictlyspeakinganimperialcity,itshistoryrendersitindispensable.InitsvastmemoryresidethesplendorsofMuslimAndalousia,itsriches,anditssubtleperfumes.AdirectheirtotheculinarytraditionsofGrenada,TeotouanisalsooneoftheonlyMoroccancitiestohavebeensubjectedtotheinfluenceoftheOttomansasthepresence of bakhlava and ktaifs attests, giving a special accent to border andcoastal towns.We should alsomention the pastilla of chicken with preservedlemons.

Ataroyalwedding,aprocessionaccompaniedbymusiciansbearsthegiftsforthefuturespouse.

A

FoodandReligionAbstinenceandculinaryfeastsinhonorofIslam

nactivememberof the Islamic community,orumma,Moroccoproudlyproclaims its religiousheritage.Theking, in addition tohis role as chief

executive, isalsothespiritualguideforhissubjects.TheAlowitedynasty, fromwhichboththeKingofMoroccoandtheKingofJordanaredescended,isoneofthe branches that traces its roots directly back to the prophet Mohammed.ReligionisverypresentintheheartsofallMoroccans.

InthewordsofanineteenthcenturyFrenchtraveler,EugèneFromentin,astaken from his journal published in AD 1857 asA Summer in the Sahara, tounderstand that food and thedivine formawhole inMorocco, “youmust seethatinArabbeliefseatingandgivingsomethingtoeataresolemnactsandthatadiffa (feast) is agreat lesson in savoir vivre,generosity, and sharingattentions.Takenote that it isnotdue toanysocialobligations...but invirtueofadivineinspiration, and, to use their words, it is as a messenger from God that thetraveler iswelcomedbyhishost.Theirpoliteness therefore isexplainednotbyconventionsbutratherisbasedonreligiousprinciple.Theypracticeitwiththesamerespecttheyhaveforallthingsthatareholyanddosoasanactofdevotion.Thereforeitisnotatallalaughingmattertoseerobustmen,inwarrior’sattirewith theiramulets round theirnecks, stoicallyperforming the smallhouseholdduties that inEurope fall towomen; seeing their largehands,hardenedby thehandling of horses and the practice of arms, serving at the table, slicingmeatbeforeservingittoyou,showingthebestcutinthebackofamutton,holdingthecarafe or, between each course, offering serviettesmade of hand-woven wool.These attentions, which in our world appear puerile, perhaps even ridiculous,herebecometouchingbecauseof thecontrast thatexistsbetween themanandthehumbletasksheperformswithstrengthanddignity.

Inlargecities,everyneighborhoodhasoneormorepublicbreadovenswhereyoucanleaveyourbread,andevenyourcakesormechoui(barbecuedlamb),tobecooked.

Celebrations such as family visits, weddings, and circumcisions are alloccasionsfortheladyofthehousetoshowoffherculinarytalents.Likewise,forreligiousholidayssuchastheProphet’sbirthday,LaylatalQadr,LaylatalSeghir,Ashoura,andthemonthofRamadan,dailyfaresgivewaytofestiveandculinarycelebrations.

AmongtheFivePillarsofIslam,Ramadanholdsaspecialplace.TheProphetwantedthistotestthefaithoftheconverts,andfastinglasts30days.Itisawayofbringingfamiliestogethertosharethefoodthatwilldeliverthesoulatsunset.

UnlikeChristian fastingwhich isconsideredpenitence,atonement for sins,andabattleagainstnaturalinstincts,fastingduringRamadanisforaMuslimawaytoserveGod,topayhomagetoHim.ThusRamadanhasbecomeaperiodofjoy, and pride for the believer who is given the opportunity to manifest hisbelongingtoIslam.Itisaperiodofcelebrationthatisgivenconcreteexpressionaroundthetableintheformofdeliciousfoods.

Inthemedina,whenthebakerlightshisovens,loavesarebroughtonlargeplattersorboards.Todistinguishoneloafofbreadfromanother,speciallydesignedstampsorfingerprintsaremadeinthedough.

From the timeMuslimsgetup, theymust avoid any transgression;not themerest drop of coffee must taint their empty cup. And because nothing is aspresentaswhatisabsent,mothersoutdothemselvesduringthesacredmonthtoproducealltheirculinarydreamsbothsavory,andespeciallysweet.Everythingistimed and planned. People are purified and pray, they pardon, they enter thekitchenmoreoftenthanusualinanefforttotricktheirhunger.Itisawonderfulmonth,wheredaysextendintothelanguorousnight.Muslimsliveatnightandsleep in the morning. Women create, invent, or reproduce old recipes. Men,unable to go to the café, fill the streets, themosques, and themarkets, whichbecomemorecolorfulthanusual.Atnight,thereisaballetofdishesandsweets,butthequeenofthemonthisharira.Datestooareserved.IsitnotsaidthattheProphet himself broke his fastwith dates andmilk? Round tables, tablecloths,earthenwareandporcelainbowls,glassesofmilk,dates,shebakiya...hewhohasnot visited aMoroccan house at this time has seen nothing, smelled nothing.Never are somany scents, colors, anddesires brought together as they are forRamadan.

After breaking the fast each evening, contented believers throng thealleyways.Nothing is better than a full stomach.Then comes iisha, thedinner

hourandtimeforthelastprayer,andforasecondtimewegobacktothetable:meatandpoultry,asparaguswitheggs,fruits,salads,andofcoursesweetsofallkinds:grioush,zalabiya,halwattourk,Turkishhalva,gazellehornsfromFes,andmakroutfromTlemcen.

Then comes the twenty-seventh day. The day of days that announces theNightofDestiny (orNightofPower)duringwhichanythingcanhappen. It issaidthattheProphetMohammedreceivedhisfirstrevelationinthelasttendaysofthemonthofRamadan,andtheulamas(religiousleaders)decidedtoendtheeventonthetwenty-seventhdayofthemonth.Sincethattime,alambhasbeensacrificedbytherichestfamilies,achickenbythelesswell-to-do,andcouscousispreparedforthemosquewhereitwillbedistributedtotheleastfortunate.Inthelastfewyears,itwouldseemthatduetoaresurgenceoffaith,prayerslastuntildawn. Then comes Laylet al Seghir. All the children wear new clothes.EverywherehousesarefilledwithcakesmadeduringthelastweekofRamadan.Neighbors and cousins meet to blanch and skin almonds or to steam dates.Dozensanddozensofeggsarebroken,sesameseedstoasted,aniseseedsground.Everybodyparticipatestogivethefestivitiesaspecialair.

StreetfoodisaMoroccantradition.Therearetheclassicdishesandtherearethemasterswhopreparethem.Hereisamechoui(barbecuedlamb)“specialist”fromMarrakech.

Each family rivals the next with inventions. One will ask a cousin fromAlgeriaoranotherfromadifferentregionofMoroccoforarecipeunknowninthese parts. On the morning of Laylet al Seghir, all the aromas regain theirrightfulplaceafteramonthofabsence:theboilingcoffeeflowsonceagainintheglassesandwhitecups.

AmongtheotherprinciplesoftheKoran,therearerestrictionsthateveryonemustobey.Porkmeatisdeemedtobeillicit,asisanyanimalthathasnotbeenbled.Ananimalisnotslaughtered,itissacrificed.Bloodrendersfleshimpure.Ifananimalhasnotbeenbledinaccordancewithreligiouslaw,thenit iscarrion(djifa)andbanned.

This rule also applies to game. All wild animals that are not specificallybannedbytheHolyBookmaybeeaten.Whenonewantstokillanimalswhosefleshcanbeeaten,onemustturntofacetheEastandcutitsthroatwhilesaying“AllahuAkbar!”(Godisgreat).Whereanimalsthatliveinwaterareconcerned,thedoctrinesdiffer,dependingonthevariousrites.Someallowtheeatingofallsuchanimals,butothershaveexceptions—frogs,inparticular,arethesubjectofmuchdebate.On theotherhand,cricket flesh is legal,as longas it iscapturedaliveandkilledbyaMuslim.ItissaidthattheProphet’swivesconsideredittobeadelicacy.Themost sacred food inMorocco is bread.GivenbyGod, it is thefoodmostsurroundedbytradition.IfaMuslimMoroccanfindsapieceofbreadon the ground, tradition dictates that he pick it up, kiss it, and place itsomewherewhereitwillnotbesoiled.

W

MoroccanHospitalityAninvitationintothehome

isalwayscelebratedwithaservingoftea

hether very poor or incredibly rich, Moroccans all share a trulyexceptionalsenseofhospitality.It isnotunusualtoseethatafriendof

the family is often better looked after than the family’s own son. The guest,treatedwithrespectandhonoredwithanengagingsmile,mustneverunderanycircumstancesrefusewhatheisofferedorherisksbringingshameonhishosts.Hospitalityissosacredthatmembersofthefamilywillbendoverbackwardstoaccommodateavisitingfriend.

Regardlessofthesetting,eveninthiscarpetbazaar,teaislikelytoaccompanyanydiscussioninMorocco.

ItmustbesaidthatinMorocco,asinmostArabandMuslimcountries,thewhole family comes together formeals,men in one room,women in another,thoughthispracticeisquicklylosinggroundintheurbancentersofCasablancaandRabat.Atmealtimes, eachdiner takeshis or her place around a low table

upon which the couscous or the tagine is served from a common dish, andnimblyusesthumb,index,andmiddlefingersoftherighthandtoservehimselfapieceofmeatoralittlesemolina.

Thesymbolismassociatedwithbreadisverystrong.Ifsomeonetriestoshareapieceofbreadthathasbeengivenhimwithanotherguestatthetable,itmaybethoughtthatheis lookingforafightwiththepersonwhooriginallyservedthebreadtohim.

TraditionalclaytaginepotsareslowlydisappearingfromtheMoroccantableinresponsetochangingtastes.TodayitisnotsurprisingtoseeaChineseservingdishonanembroideredBerbertablecloth.

Theteaceremonyremainsaspecialmomentwhenentertainingguests.Eventhough it is a relatively recent practice—it was probably introduced in theeighteenth or nineteenth centuries—tea is particularly valued and has quicklybecomeoneofthemostpowerfulsymbolsoftheMoroccankingdom.

“Thewholeuniverseisfoundinateapot,”writesAbdallahZrika.“Ormoreaccurately, the sinia (circular platter) represents the earth, the teapot theheavens, and the glasses rain; the heavens by way of the rain is joined to theearth.”

Greatfeasts,diffa,alwaysendwithafireworkdisplayofpastries,servedwithminttea.

Atfirstreservedonlyfortheverywealthybecauseofitsexorbitantcost,theconsumptionofteaquicklybecamewidespread.InthepalacesofMarrakech,on

the slopesof theAtlasMountainsor in theblazingheatofanomad’s tent, theinfusionremainsthedrinkfavoredbyallMoroccans.Teainvariablyconcludesameal and figures in discussions at any sidewalk café. It is served at breakfast,during the morning break, after lunch, as an aperitif, and after dinner. It ispresentateveryhourofaMoroccan’sday.

Preparing and serving the drink is a true art. A layer of tea is placed inglimmering teapots, followedby freshmint leaves,broken lumpsof sugar, andboilingwater.Sometimesabsintheleavesareaddedtogivetheteaaslightlybitteredge.Thehost takes the teapotandpours thepreciousdrink intoasmallglassfromashighashecan.Thecontentsare thenpouredback intotheteapotandthepouringrepeateduntilthemint,tea,andsugarareperfectlycombined.Onlythendoesthesatisfiedhosthandeachguestasteamingglassoftea.

Inthesouk,differentactivitiesare locatedindifferentquarters: thebaboush(Moroccanslippers)souk,thehenna,souk,thesoukoftheluthiers,thecopperwaresouk,andthevegetablemarket.

E

AllRoadsLeadtotheSoukAfestivalofcolorsand

atriumphofthesenses

veryMoroccan cityharbors amedina, theoldquarterwhere thepast stillechoes clearly and the flowof passers-by isnever-ending.Here are found

the craftsmen, the traders, and the gossip that will be the subject of livelydiscussionsinthehammam,ortraditionalsteambaths.

AtreasuretroveworthyofAliBaba,andguardedbymassivegates,thesoukisasuccessionofnarrow,oftencovered,alleyways,withback-to-backshopsthatare barely bigger than a linen cupboard. Tinsmiths, grocers, butchers, pastrychefs, tailors, spice merchants, and cake vendors meet daily and co-exist inindescribablemayhem.

If Moroccan cuisine enjoys such prestige, it is because it has, over thecenturies, learned to refine its judgmentand satisfy thedemandsof thepalate,the eyes, and the nose as few cuisines have. If, aswe have alreadymentioned,Arabdoctorsusedspicesveryearlyonintheirremedies,theyalsoknewhowtogivetheirpatientsasenseoftasteforfinerthings.Spicesplayanimportantrolein their remedies, andareused inpreparing themostastonishing recipes. Inasocietyinwhichrestrictionsabound,thereexistsawholerangeoflocalremediesthat have a powerful following—from love potions to cures for sterility, spiceshold the answer to all our everyday woes. Grandmothers’ recipes live long inMorocco. In the home,women often deploy their imagination, ingenuity, andskill to stay in good health. Swallowing two spoonfuls of cumin to counterstomachflurequiresalittlebravery.Butdoesitmatter,iftheselittletrickshealthebodyandeasethemind?

Moroccoisthebirthplaceoftherareandsurprisingraselhanout,“headofthe shop” in Arabic, the heady mixture of twenty-seven spices, the secret ofwhich is jealouslyguarded in thememoriesofahandfulof shopkeepers in thedarkalleysofthesouksinFesandMarrakech.

In the souk, the merchant, perched atop his colorful displays, calls to thepasser-by. Drunken on the spell of words and smells, transfixed by theshimmering colors, the shopper purchases caraway seeds, cloves, nigella seeds,cinnamon,mace,andcumininlittlefoldedbags.Oncehome,themanhandshiswife the precious sachets with which she will prepare the dishes for the nextmeal.

Theodors, flavors,andscentsplayanimportantrole inMorocco.Theyaresynonymouswithgatesthatleadtothesublime.Ineveryhome,hiddeninsmallcontainersoroldbatteredtins,arethespicesthatgiveMoroccancuisineatouchofcolorandexudetheirdelicateperfume.

PartTwo:CookinginMoroccoAvarietyoftraditionalandmodemcookingutensilsarefoundin

Moroccankitchenstoday

One of the most important kitchen utensils is the tagine. The term taginedescribesboth the food—a long-cooked stew,usuallyof lambor chicken—andtheearthenwarecookingrecipient inwhich it iscooked.A taginehasa round,shallow base and a tall, pointed cover and taginedishes are prepared by longsimmeringoveranopenfireorabedofcharcoal.

AtanjiadescribesboththefoodandtheearthenwareamphorathatisusedtocookthespecialtyofMarrakech,tanjiamarrakshia.Theamphoracontainingthemeatandspicesissimplysealedwithpaperandstringandbakedforseveralhours.

Couscous, thestaple foodofMorocco, resembles tinyballsofdoughwhichare steamed and served like rice, oftenmixedwith a tagine stew. The balls ofdougharemadenotbykneadingbutbysprinklingsaltedwaterintoagasaa—alargedishoncemadeofclayorwoodbuttodaymostlyavailableinstainlesssteeloraluminum—containingflour(fromwheat,barley,ormaize)whilethefingersoftherighthandareslowlyrakedthroughtheflourcausingthedoughtoform

tinyballswhicharethendried.(Agasaaisalsousedtokneaddoughforbread.)Couscous is steamed inaquadrawaalkaskas,orcouscoussier,whichhas twoparts:thelowerpartforcookingthevegetablesandthemeatorfish,andthetop—whichhasaperforatedbottom—forsteamingthecouscous.

Ghorbal Couscoussier Tagines

Indispensable for serving mint tea is the l’barrade, a tin, sliver plate, orstainless steel teapot.Other traditionalkitchenutensils that are still seen todayincludetheghorbal,orsievemadefrompiercedleather,andthechtato,orsilk-lined sieve. Cooking pots and pans include themaqla, or copper skillet, thequardaandtanjir,differentkindsof largecopperstewingpots,andthetanjrawhichwasoriginallyaclaypotalthoughtoday,thestainlesssteelversionismorewidelyused.

CookingMethodsMasteringafewtraditionalcooking

methodsisbothsimpleandrewarding

THREESTEPSTOCOOKINGCOUSCOUS

Couscousisthenamegiventoboththecookeddishandthesemolina.Astaplefood of much of North Africa, couscous is now very popular in Europe andNorth America. Many brands of couscous are marked “instant” and offerinstructions forcooking in themicrowaveoroven. Ifyoudon’twish to followthese instructions, you are encouraged to try the traditionalMoroccanway ofpreparing couscouswhich is easilymastered.All you need towatch for is thesteamescapingfromthecouscoussier.Cookingcouscousoccursinthreestages:•About45minutesbeforeyouwanttoeat,wet1lb(500g)couscouswithalittlewater in a gasaa, or large dish. Every grainmust bemoistened so that it canexpandwhencooked.Placethecouscousinthebasketofthecouscoussier.Covertherimofthelowerhalfofthecouscoussierwithfoiltoformasealsothatthesteamwill not escape from the sides. Place the basket part of the couscoussieroverthesimmeringsauceinwhichthemeatandvegetablesarecooking.Coverandsteamfor30minutes,ensuringthatthesteamisgoingthroughthecouscous.•Pourthecouscous,nowacompactmass,intothegasaa,orlargedish.Usingaforkoraslottedspoon,breakupthe“cake”thathasformed,addingalittlecoldwatertohelpbreakupthelumps.Addsalttotaste.Returnthecouscoustothesteam basket over the stock, cover andwait for the steam to rise through thegrains.•Thecouscousisalmostready.Pouritbackintothegasaa,orlargedish,onelasttime.Takeagenerouspieceofbutter andmix it into the couscous to separateeachgrain.Returnthesemolinatothesteamerandremovefromheatassoonasthesteampenetratesthecouscous.Servehotinashallowdish.Arrangecouscousinadomeandplacevegetablesandmeataroundthecouscous.Servethebrothseparately.

MAKINGSMEN

BeingaBerbertradition,smen,orsaltedbutter,isuniquetothearea.Thebutteris first clarified—it is melted and the solids are removed—then sometimessimmeredwith herbs, strained, and salt added.Smen is often buried and ageduntilitisverypungent.Thisrecipesiseasiertoprepareandismoreacceptabletonon-Maghribipalates.

1teaspoonlarge-grainsemolina2cups(400g)butter2teaspoonssaltInaheavysaucepan,cook the semolina and the butter over very low heat for 5 minutes,stirringregularly.Filterthroughafinesieveandaddsalt.Mixthoroughly.Pourintoanearthenwarebowlandleavetocool.Smenwillkeepforuptooneyear.

MAKINGWAARKA9cups(1kg)all-purpose(plain)flourPinchsalt1tablespoonoliveoil4cups(1liter)lukewarmwaterMixtheflour,salt,andoil,thengraduallyaddthewater,kneadingtoobtainasoft,elasticdough.Placethedoughinabowl,sprinklewith

alittlewater,coverandleavetorestforabout1hour.

Boil water in a pot coveredwith a smooth, flat copper pan or a non-stickbaking sheet.When the metal is hot, reduce heat. In the past, the metal wasrubbedwithanoniondippedineggyolktopreventthedoughfromsticking.

Take a handful of dough.With a regular movement of the wrist, quicklytouch the lumpofdough to thegriddle.Whenthedough touches themetal, itwillleaveathinroundfilmonthemetal.Repeatquicklyseveraltimes,leavingnogaps between each touch, in order to form a large, almost transparent sheet.Removeverycarefullyandkeeppreparedsheetsunderadampclothuntilreadytouse.

This requires a bit of dexterity so, if you don’t have neither the time, buyready-madefilopastryinstead.

FOLDINGBRIWATTES

Cutthesheetsofwaarka intostrips,placeaspoonfuloffillingatoneend,foldthecorneroveratarightangle,thencontinuefoldingatrightangles.Tuckinthelastedgeasyouwouldanenvelope(seephotosbelow).

MoroccanIngredientsMorocco,landofspicesandherbs

Cinnamon Cloves Cumin Driedrosebuds

Ginger Raselhanout Whitepepper

ABSINTHE:This silver-colored plant can be added tomint or can replace itduringthewinter.Itreinforcesthetasteofmintandbringsoutthetasteofteawithaslightbitteraftertaste.Omitifnotavailable.

ANISEED(naaffaadetafilalte):ThetranslationoftheArabicnameofthisspiceis“thatwhichdoesgood.”Itflavorsourpastriesbutalsocertaindishes likeChickenwithAnise.

CARAWAYSEEDS (kerouyademeknes):Similar tocumin inappearance,butvery different in taste. This spice is most often used in preparing certainsalads,andespeciallyinharira,thefamedMoroccansoup.

CHILI(felflaharra):Althoughused ineverydaycooking,chiliesarepracticallybannedfromfestivetables.

CILANTRO(kosbore):Cilanto,orfreshcorianderleaf,isoftenusedwithflatleafparsleytoseasonfishandpoultry.

CINNAMON (farfa): Widely used in Moroccan cuisine. Used in sticks orground,thisseductivespicecanbesmoothorviolent—itisuptoyoutoaddtherightamount!

CLOVES(oudennouar):TheArabictranslationis“woodofflower.”Moroccancooksuseitinsavorydishes,soups,andpastries.

CUBEB (el kebaba):This ismy favorite spice.Alsoknownas tailedpepperorJava pepper, cubeb is native to Indonesia and was introduced to Arabiccooking as early as the tenth century. Cubeb resembles black peppercornswith a little stalk or “tail” protruding from one end. Its taste is subtle,betweennutmegandcloves.Cubeb isused in savorydishesand inpastrieslikemarkouts,littlediamondsofsemolinawithhoneyanddates.

CUMIN:Ground cumin should be used sparingly because it can enliven thetaste of fish, for example, or it can kill all its flavor. It is often used withcarrots,favabeans(boardbeans),andkefta(groundmeat).Cumincanalsobeusedwhole(camounehab).

FENUGREEK (l’halba):These small yellowgrainshave a very intense flavour.Use sparingly to preserve the balance of a dish, not tomake it unbearablybitter.

GINGER(sekinejbire):ItisoftenusedindrypowderforminMorocco.Gingerisalsoconsideredtobeanaphrodisiac.Wisdomdictatesusingitcarefully,orrunningthedangerofmakingadishbitter.

HARISSA: A hot, red paste of chili and other herbs and spices popular inMoroccoandNorthAfrica.Itisoftenmadeathomebyblendingredchilieswithsuchingredientsascaraway,coriander,salt,andoiltoformapastebutit is also readily available in cans from most North African and Arabgroceries.

KHLI’: A kind of preserved meat which is sold in jars and is available fromMoroccanandotherArabgroceries.

LAFT EL MAHFOUR: A very strong flavored turnip, with a slight bitteraftertaste,usedinmakingtaginesandcouscous.

MARJORAM(merdedouche):WalkingthroughthestreetsofaMoroccantown,who could fail to notice the immense pans filled with snail soup? It isprimarilyseasonedwithmarjoram.

MALLOW (bakoula khoubiz): Mallow is our spinach. It grows everywhere.Steamedandseasonedwithpaprikaandcumin,itispresentonallMoroccantables.

MASTICorGUMARABIC:Subtlyflavored,itisusedinpigeonpastilla.

MINT(na’na):It isunthinkabletoendamealwithoutminttea.ThisherbhasoneofthemoststrikingflavorsinMorocco.

NIGELLASEEDS:Theselittleblackseeds(alsocalledblackonionseeds),whicharesofullof flavor,aregrowninMorocco.Theyareoftenfoundonbread,butalsoincertaintagines,liketheTagineofChickeninNigellaSeeds.

NUTMEG (el gouza): A “strong” spice, it is only rarely used.Whole nutmegskeepalmostindefinitely.

PARSLEY(maadnous):FlatleafparsleyisusedinalmostallMoroccandishes.Itisindispensablefortheshermoula(amixtureofherbandspice).

PEPPER (l’bazare): Both black and white pepper is used in the Moroccankitchenwithfreshlygroundblackpepperslightlymoreinevidence.

RASELHANOUT: A finely balanced composition of twenty-seven spices, thesecret of which is closely guarded within the walls of a few select souk(markets). Ras el hanout blends, cardamom, mace, galangal, grains ofparadise, the fruit, and the nut of nutmeg, allspice, Spanish fly, cinnamonand Chinese cinnamon, long pepper, white and black pepper, cloves,tumeric, ginger and white ginger, lavender, iris, rose buds, nigella,belladonnaberries,ashtreenuts,gouzaelasnab,Mlalabachi(thefruitofaperennialshrub),andchasteberry.

SAFFRON(zaafrane):OriginallyfromOuarzazateorSpain,thequeenofspicesispickedwithnearreligiousfervorbeforedawn,whichexplainsitsprice.Be

carefulnottobuy“counterfeits”forthepriceofrealsaffron,sometimesmadewithsilkfromcornhusksandalittleoil!Saffronisusedinbourgeoiscuisineinthecityandinfestivedishes.

SAGE (salmia):Freshordried, sage isused to strengthen tea inwinter, and iskneadedintoBerberbreaddough.

SESAME (jaljlane): Sesame isusedchopped,ground,orwholeand it is averymuchsought-afterseasoninginMorocco.

TURMERIC(elkourkoub):Thankgoodnessforturmeric!Itsparesustheuseofartificial coloring because it adds its color to simmered dishes naturally. Itcanreplacesaffronthoughsadlyithasneitheritssubtletynoritsstrength.

CountryBread(ontop),CityBreadwithSesameSeeds(inmiddle),andCityBread(onbottom).

PartThree:TheRecipesRecipesforsoup,salads,andbreadsprecedethoseformain

dishes,whichbeginonpage46

BREADS

MatoulaCountryBread

In the countryside,matoula is still cooked in a ferrah, an earthenware tagineusedexclusivelyformakingbread.Inthecity,anOujdadish,acastironplatter,ismorecommon.OujdadishescanbefoundinstoresrunbyNorthAfricans.

5cups(1kg)finewheatsemolina1teaspoonsalt

3½tablespoons(25g)yeastor5tablespoonssourdoughstarter2cups(500ml)warmwater1cup(200g)mediumwheatsemolina

Pourthefinesemolinaintoa largeshallowdish.Makeawell inthecenterandaddthesaltandyeastdissolvedinalittleofthewarmwater.

Gradually add the remaining warm water while kneading the doughvigorously.Thedoughshouldbesofterthanregularbreaddough.Ifitistoostiff,addalittlemorewarmwater.

Shape thedough into threeballs. Sprinkle themwith the coarser semolina.Flatten each into a round pancake and place on a clean tea towel, covercompletelywith another tea towel and allow thedough to rise for 1hour in awarmplace.

Heatthedishortagine.Whenit’shot,removethebreadfromtheclothandcookoverlowheat,12to15minutesperside.Itmustcookslowly,otherwisethecrustwillburnandthedoughinsidewillremainuncooked.Anequallydeliciousvariation is to brush the risen dough with beaten egg yolk and sprinkle withsesameseedsbeforecooking.

Measurements

Measurementsinthisbookaregiveninvolumeasfaraspossible:1measuringcup contains 250 ml (roughly 8 oz); 1 teaspoon contains 5 ml, while 1tablespooncontains15mlortheequivalentof3teaspoons.

Servings

Unlessotherwisestated,allrecipesarefor4to6people,aspartofamulti-dishmeal.

Ingredients

Whenarecipe listsahard-to-findorunusual ingredient,seepages32and33forpossiblesubstitutes.Ifasubstituteisnotlisted,lookfortheingredientinaNorthAfricanorArabicfoodmarket.

KhobzEdDarCityBread

Everyday bread is round, but bread for celebrations can rival cakes in beauty:khobzaïtennaïr,forexample,isagolden,slightlysweet,brioche-likebread,madecrunchywithalmondsandseeds,anddecoratedwithhard-boiledeggs,asymboloflifeandtherebirthofthenewyearintheMuslimcalendar.Onthatday,eachchildprepareshisorherownlittlebreadstosharewithfriends.

8cups(1kg)all-purpose(plain)flouror5cups(1kg)linewheatsemolina(foralighterbread)1teaspoonsalt

1½tablespoons(10g)or2tablespoonssourdoughstarter2cups(500ml)warmwater2handfulsflourfordusting

Sifttheflourorsemolinaintoalargeshallowdish,formawellinthecenterandaddsaltandyeastdissolvedinalittlewater.

Mix and then add liquidwhile kneading vigorously. The dough should be

softandelastic.Ifit’snotsoftenough,addalittlemorewarmwater.Dividethedoughintofourequalparts.Rolleachintoaballandsprinklewith

a little flour. Flatten each ball into a disk, place on a clean, floured cloth andallowtorise inawarmplacefor1hour inawarmplace,1½hours inacoolerplace.Ensurethatthedoughhasrisenenoughbypressingitwithyourfinger.Ifthedoughreturns to itsoriginalshapeassoonasyouremoveyour finger, it isready.Ifyouleaveafingerprint,letitriseanother15minutes.Heattheovento400°F(200°C,gasmark6).

Slide the loaves into the oven and bake until golden, approximately 25minutes.Fora slightlydifferentpresentation,brushwitheggyolkandsprinklewithsesameseedsjustbeforebaking.

RollsScentedwithNigellaSeeds

2cups(250g)all-purpose(plain)flour1¼cups(250g)linesemolina1teaspoonnigella(blackonion)seeds3tablespoons(20g)yeast1cup(250ml)warmwater1teaspoonsalt1tablespoonsugar

½cup(100g)butter(orsmen,seepage31)2eggs,beaten1eggyolk,lightlybrokenup2tablespoonsall-purpose(plain)flour

Inagasaa,or largemixingbowl,mix the flourandthesemolina, thenaddthenigellaseedsandmixwell.

Inasmallbowl,dilutetheyeastwith2or3tablespoonsofwarmwater.Pourtheyeastinawellinthemiddleoftheflourmixture.Addthesaltandsugarandmix.Addthemeltedbutterorsmenandstiragain.Addthetwobeateneggs,andmixin.Finally,sprinklewithalittlewaterbeforebeginningtoknead.Kneadthedough for about 10 minutes, regularly spraying with more water. Divide thedoughintosixequalpieces.Sprinklethemwith2tablespoonsofflour,placeonacloth,cover looselyandallow thedough to rise forabout1½hours inawarmplace.Next,flattenaballofdough.Brushoneggyolk.Repeattheprocessfortheotherfiveballs.Prickeachloafafewtimeswithafork.Heattheovento400°F(200°C,gasmark6)andbakefor10minutes.Serveimmediately.

BriwattesBaJbenCheeseTriangles

In the past, well-off familiesmade briwatwith sweet jben.Here is a deliciousvariation:sweetenthejbenwithsugartotaste,and,inafoodprocessor,blenditwith¼cup(50g)meltedbutteror1tablespooncrèmefraîche—orheavy(double)cream—and1teaspoonorangeflowerwater.Followtherecipebutomittheeggs.

6½oz(200g)jbenorfreshgoat’scheese¼cup(50g)butterPinchofsaltandgroundblackpepperFewthymeleaves3eggs,beaten

10sheetswaarkaorfilopastryOilfordeep-frying

Putthejben(orgoat’scheese),thebutter,salt,pepper,thyme,andbeateneggsina saucepan. Cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, until mixturethickens.

Cuteachsheetofwaarka(or filo) into four longstrips,placeaspoonfuloffillingatoneshortend, foldthecornerdowntoformatriangle, thencontinuefoldingatrightanglesuntil theendofthestripisreached.Tosealthetriangle,tucktheendintothelastfoldlikeanenvelope(seepage33).

Inalargepan,heattheoilovermediumheat.Deep-frythecheesetriangles,turningregularly,untilgolden,about3to4minutes.Drainonpapertowelsandservehot.

Briwattesb’ArrozRiceTriangles

2cups(500ml)water2cups(500ml)low-fat(semi-skimmed)milkPinchofsalt1tablespoonsuperfine(caster)sugar

¾cup(150g)short-grain(pudding)rice,washed½cup(100g)butter1tablespoonorangeflowerwater2teaspoonscinnamon

6sheetswaarkaorfilopastryOilfordeep-frying

¾cup(100g)almonds, fried inoil6-8minutesthenroughlychoppedBringthewaterandmilk to a boil in a saucepan. Add the rice, salt, sugar, and cook,uncovered, 10 minutes. Add the butter and continue to cook for 10minutes.Removefromheatwhenriceisdoneandleavetocool.Addtheorangeflowerwaterandhalfthecinnamon.

Cuteachsheetofwaarka(orfilo)into4strips,place1teaspoonofcooked,cooled rice at one end, fold down the corner to form a triangle and continuefoldingatrightangles,thentucktheendintothelastfoldtoseal(seepage33).Continueuntilallthewaarkahasbeenused.

Fry the rice triangles in hot oil until they are completely golden, about 5minutes,thenremovewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowels.Arrangethetrianglesonaplateandsprinklewithremainingcinnamon.

Bride’sFingers

2tablespoonsoil

3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with a little water to form a paste 1 bunch fresh cilantro(coriander)leaves,chopped½teaspoonsalt

PinchcuminpowderJuiceof½lemon1tomato,peeled,seeded,andfinelydiced8oz(250g)shrimp(prawns),peeled1greenchili(optional)

12sheetswaarkaorfilopastry1eggyolkOilfordeep-frying

Heat2tablespoonsoilinapanoverhighheatandsautéthegarlic,cilantro,salt,cumin,andlemonjuice.Stirwithawoodenspoonfor3minutesoverhighheat.Lowertheheat,addthetomatoandcookfor7minutes.Addtheshrimpandchili(ifusing)andcookforanother3to4minutes,thenremovefromheatandcool.

Cutthesheetsofwaarka(orfilo)inhalf.Inthemiddleofeachsheet,place1tablespoonfilling,foldinbothsides,thenrolltoformneatcigarshapes.Sealandbrushwitheggyolk.

Heatoil inapanand,whenhot,deep-fry thepastriesuntilbrown,about5minutes.Servehot.

CrispyMoroccanCrêpes

2cups(250g)all-purpose(plain)flour½teaspoonsalt1cup(250ml)water5tablespoonsoliveoil

1tablespoonkhli’,chopped1clovegarlic

Sift the flour into a mixing bowl with a pinch of the salt. Add water, 2tablespoonsoftheoil,andkneaduntildoughbecomeselastic.Letthedoughrestfor20minutes.

In themeantime, heat the remaining oil in a saucepan and sauté thekhli’,crushedgarlic,andremainingsalt.Simmer15minutes.

Divide the dough into approximately ten pieces, each the size of a tabletennisball.Flatteneachoneonanoiledsurfacetoformadisk.Place1teaspoonoffillingoneachdisk.Foldinthesidestoformasquare.Brushthetopwithoilandsetaside.Heatapanandbrownthesquares,3minuteseachside.

SALADS

ShladaBalfelaflaMeshouiaRoastedBellPepperSalad

2greenbellpeppers(capsicum)2redbellpeppers(capsicum)1tomato,peeled,seeded,andcubed1clovegarlicPinchsaltandpepperPinchcuminpowder4tablespoonsoliveoil

Grill or broil the bell peppers in the oven, approximately 30minutes, turningregularly, until the skin is completelyblistered.Place in a sealedplasticbagorwrap in aluminum foil and allow to cool.When cool enough to handle, peel,

removeseeds,andrinseinwarmwaterthenpatdry.Slicepeppers intothinstripsandarrangeonaplate.Addthetomatocubes

andsprinklewithchoppedgarlic.Seasonwithsalt,pepper,andapinchofcumin.Drizzlewitholiveoil,thentossandservewarmorcold.

ShladabaDanjaleEggplantSalad

2 lb (1 kg) small eggplants (aubergines), stemsdiscarded, sliced lengthways into 4 to 6 pieces1smallbunchflat-leafparsley,stemsdiscarded,leavesfinelychoppedLargepinchsalt

2tablespoonsvinegar3tablespoonsoliveoil1teaspoonpaprika1pinchofcuminpowder3clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed

Blancheggplantsfor10minutesinsaltedwater.In a mixing bowl, combine parsley, salt, vinegar, oil, spices, and garlic to

formthedressing.Whentheeggplantiscooked,drainit, thendipeachpieceinthesauceand

arrangeonaservingplatter.Servehotorcold.

ShladabaKhizouwaLimouneCarrotSaladwithOrangeJuice

Thisrecipeisassimpleasitissurprising.

3mediumcarrotsJuiceof1juicyorange1teaspoonsugar½teaspooncinnamonpowder1teaspoonorangeflowerwater3½oz(100g)shelledwalnuts

Inamixingbowl,combinethegratedcarrot,orangejuice,sugar,cinnamon,andorangeflowerwater.Mixwell.Garnishwiththewalnutsandservewellchilled.

ZaaloukEggplantPuree

2lb(1kg)eggplants(aubergines)5tablespoonsoliveoil2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves finely chopped 1 bunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves, finelychopped8oz(250g)tomatoes,peeled,seeded,andcubed½teaspooncuminpowder

½teaspoonpaprika½teaspoongroundblackpepper1teaspoonsalt

1lemon,onehalfjuiced,theothercutinwedges12blackolives

Preheatovento500°F(250°C,gas10).Slicetheskinoftheeggplantslengthwisetopreventthemfromburstingwhilecooking.Placethemonabakingsheetandbakefor40minutes,turningoccasionally.Allowtocool,thenremovethestemsandskin.Cutthefleshintocubesandcrushwithafork.

Heattheoil inpanandsautétheeggplant,garlic,choppedherbs,tomatoes,spices,salt,andlemonjuice.Cookforafurther30minutes.

Servehotorcoldgarnishedwiththelemonwedgesandblackolives.

ShladabalGharaaZucchiniSalad

2lb(1kg)zucchini(courgettes),stemsremoved,cutinhalftheneachhalfquateredlengthways3tablespoonsoliveoil

4clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed1bunchflat-leafparsley,chopped1teaspoonsalt1teaspooncuminpowder1teaspoonpaprikaJuiceof½lemon

Blanchzucchiniinsaltedwaterfor5to8minutes.Drainandreserve.In a pan, heat the olive oil and sauté the garlic, parsley, salt, cumin, and

paprika.Stirwithawoodenspoonfor3to5minutes.Addthezucchiniandstirgentlyforafurther5to7minutes.Addthelemonjuice.Thissaladmaybeservedhotorcold.

ShladaBalFouleFreshFavaBeanSalad

2lb(1kg)fava(broad)beansinthepod,shelledtoyield1lb(500g)beans2quarts(2liters)water2tablespoonsoliveoil1teaspooncuminpowder3clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed1teaspoonsaltChiliflakes,totaste

Wash the beans and remove the germ but don’t peel them. Blanch for 5 to 8minutesinsaltedwater.Drainandplaceinasaladbowl.

Addtheoliveoil,cumin,garlic,salt,andchiliandmixthoroughly.Servehot.You can vary this recipe bymashing the beanswith a fork.Also, topwith anadditionalspoonfulofoliveoil.Delicious!

ShladaB’KhizouWalCamouneCarrotandCuminSalad

4oz(250g)carrots,peeled,halvedandthenquateredlengthwise2tablespoonsoliveoil2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed½bunchflat-leafparsley,chopped½teaspoongroundblackpepper½teaspooncuminpowder

Juiceof½lemon

Blanchcarrot insaltedwater for8 to10minutes.Drain.Heatoil inapanandsauté thecarrots,garlic,parsley,pepper,andcumin. Justbeforeserving,hotorcold,addthelemonjuice.Thesaladwillkeepforupto3daysintherefrigerator.

LimesM’RakadeSaltedPreservedLemons

2lb(1kg)lemons1lb(500g)salt

Clean the lemons thoroughly with a brush under running water. Slice eachlemon into quarters without going all the way through the base. Salt themgenerously,rubbingthesaltintothecuts.

Transferthelemonstoalarge,sterilizedjar,placeaweightontopandleavethemtomarinate3days.The lemons shouldbe soaking in theirown juices. Ifhereisnotenoughjuice,addalittleboilingwatertocoverthefruit.Sealthejarand set aside for 1 month (away from any source of light or heat). Lemonspreservedinthiswaykeepformonths.

MateshaM’aaslaTomatoJam

RosepetalscanbefoundinanyArabgrocery.

¼cup(50g)butter

2lb(1kg)veryripetomatoes,peeled,seededanddiced1teaspoonsalt1teaspooncinnamonPinchofnutmeg1¾oz(50g)powderedrosepetals3½oz(100g)honey2teaspoonsconfectioners’(icing)sugar⅓cup(50g)sesameseeds

Meltthebutterinapot,thenaddthetomatoes,salt,spices,androsepetals.Mixoverhighheat,thenreduceheatandsimmerfor40minutes,stirringfromtimetotime.Addthehoneyandsugar.Mixwellandcontinuecookingforafurther15minutes.Thisjamisdeliciousonbread(page35)orplaincouscous.

MOUROUZIYALambConfitwithRaisinsandAlmondsInthepast,thisconfitwouldbekeptformonthsinearthenware

jars.

½teaspoonsalt1pinchsaffron threads2 teaspoonsraselhanout (seepage33)4cups (1 liter)water6 lambshanks,or6pieces taken fromashoulderof lamb2 tablespoonspeanutoil2onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon smen (see page 31) or 5 tablespoons saltedbutter1cup(150g)almonds,blanchedandskinned2cups(300g)sultanasorcurrants½cup(100g)honey6Dadezrosebuds,togarnish⅓cup(50g)sesameseeds,toasted,togarnishInabowl,combinethesalt,saffron,raselhanoutand1cup(250ml)ofthewaterandmixwell.Rubthemeatwithhalfofthisspicemixture.Reservetheremainingspicemixtureforlater.

Placethemeatinacastironpottogetherwiththeoil,theremaining3cups(750ml)water,theonions,smen(orbutter),andalmonds.Cook,covered,overlowheatfor2hours.Checktheliquidfromtimetotimeandaddalittlewaterifnecessary.

Meanwhile,soaktheraisinsinwarmwater.Aftertwohours,drainandaddtothemeat,alongwiththereservedspicemixture.Cookafurther20minutes,thenadd the honey and continue to cook, uncovered, until the raisins and thealmondsstarttocaramelize.

Servehotwithbreadandgarnishthedishwithrosebudsandtoastedsesameseeds.

TAGINEBELGHALMIWALSFARGELLambTaginewithQuince

3lb(1½kg)shoulderoflamb,cutinto8-12pieces½cup(100g)butter1stickcinnamon

4teaspoonsgroundginger

3teaspoonspowderedsaffronor10strands1onion,peeledandthinlysliced½teaspoonsalt

2lb(1kg)ripequinces,halved,coresandseedsremoved3tablespoonshoney

1teaspoongroundcinnamon1cup(250ml)water

1lb(500g)okra(ladies’fingers),stemsremovedInatagineorlargepot,combinethemeat, butter, cinnamon, ginger, saffron, onion, and salt. Add water tocover themeat, and cook over low heat for 1 hour.When themeat isdone,takeitoutofthepotandreserveitinacoveredbowl.Discardthecinnamonstickbutretainthepotofliquid.

Place the quinces in the pot of liquid together with the honey, groundcinnamon,andwater.Stirgently,bringtoaboilandsimmer,covered,untilthequincesaretender,about15minutes.

Return themeat to the pot, alongwith any juices it releases, then add theokra.Cookforafurther10minutes.Donotovercooktheokraoritwillbecomeslimy.

Arrangeinaservingdishandservewithbread.

MAQUABAJEBLANEWAKORNILamb,Pea,andArtichokeStew

2lb(1kg)lamb(preferablyfromtheneck)2onions,peeledandslicedthinly2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed2tablespoonsoliveoil

1teaspoonsalt500ml(2cups)water½teaspoonpaprika¼teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoongroundpepper

1lb(500g)artichokes(seehelpfulhint)1lemon,onehalfjuicedtheotherhalfcutinquarters3cups(500g)freshshelledpeasInalargepan,placethemeat,onions,garlic,oil,andsalt.Sautefor3to4minutestocolorthemeatevenly.Pourthewaterover themeatandadd thespices.Bring toaboil, thenreduceheatandsimmer,covered,for1hour.

Meanwhile, prepare the artichokes by breaking oft the stem and removingthe toughest outer leaves. Trim off the top two-thirds, and remove the fuzzychoke,thendropintoamixingbowlfilledwithwater,thejuiceofhalfalemonand the other half cut into quarters. This will prevent the artichokes fromdiscoloring.

Afterthemeathascookedfor1hour,addthepeas.Fiveminutes later,addtheartichokes.Simmerforafurther15minutes.Ifyoulikeyourvegetableswelldone,donothesitatetoleavethepotsimmeringforanother10minutes.

Toserve,firstarrangethemeatinadish,thentheartichokesandpeas,andfinallyaddthesauceandenjoyitwithgoodMoroccanbread(seepage35).

Helpfulhint:Trytolookforthesmallpoivradevarietyofartichoke.Ifyouusethelargeglobevariety,removetheouterleaves,clean,andquarterthem.

TAGINEMAKFOULLambTaginewithOnions

3tablespoonsoliveoil

1tomato,peeledandsliced2½lb(1¼kg)lamb,neckorshoulder1teaspoonsalt

3stickscinnamon½teaspoonsaffronthreads½teaspoonwhitepepper

2 lb (1 kg) yellow onions (preferably small), peeled and sliced into think rings2 cups (500ml)water

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

Ina tagineorpot (seehelpfulhint),place theoliveoil, tomato,meat, salt, andspices—except the ground cinnamon,whichwill be used as garnish. Place theonionsontopofthemeatandaddthewater.Coverandcookoverlowheatfor1hour(1½hoursifyouareusingacastironpot).

Taste and correct the seasoning. Serve directly from the tagine if you areusingoneorarrangethemeatonaservingplatter.Coveritwiththesauce,thengarnishwiththeonions.Sprinklethewholedishwithcinnamon.

Helpfulhint:Theuseofanearthenwaretagineisrecommendedforthisrecipe.Ifyoudonothaveone,acastironpotmaybeused.

YoumaysubstituteredonionsthatarefoundthroughouttheMediterraneanforthesmallyellowonionsifnecessary.

KASKSOUTFAYALambCouscouswithOnions

2lb(1kg)lamb,neckorshoulder2lb(1kg)onions,peeledandfinelychopped½teaspoongroundginger

3stickscinnamon

4cloves½teaspoongroundpepper

1teaspoonsalt1bunchfreshcilantro(coriander)leaves

1bunchflat-leafparsley6cups(1½liters)water2lb(1kg)fine-graincouscous1cup(200g)currantsorsultanas

2tablespoonsorangeflowerwater

1tablespoonsmenor5teaspoonssaltedbutter1tablespoonsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamon

2pinchesgroundsaffron

6½oz(200g)almonds,peeled,brownedinoilandchopped3hard-boiledeggs,halved,togarnishIn the bottom of a couscoussier, place the meat, onions, ginger,cinnamon sticks, cloves, pepper, salt, cilantro, parsley, and the water.

Bringtoaboilandsimmerfor30minutes.Tasteandcorrectseasoningasnecessary.

In themeantime,prepare thecouscous (seepage30 for instructions.)Soakthecurrantsforabout10minutesincoldwaterwith1tablespoonoftheorangeflowerwater.

Removeonions,herbs,andaladleofstockfromthecouscoussier.Pourthemintoaheavypanwiththesmen(orbutter), thesugar,remainingorangeflowerwater and the ground cinnamon and stir until the onions start to caramelize.Add the currants. Simmer for 10 minutes until all the water has evaporated.Discardtheherbs.

Form a ring of couscous on a serving platter and place the meat in themiddle.Placethecurrantsandtheonionsonthecouscous.Moistenwithalittlestock.Sprinklewithchoppedalmonds.

Servetheremainingstockinatureenandplaceitinthemiddleofthetable,for guests to serve themselves.Youmaygarnish thedishwithhard-boiled egghalves.

TAGINEBALGHALMIWAALFOULLambTaginewithFavaBeans2½lb(1¼kg)shoulderoflamb,cutintobite-

sizedpieces

1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonpepper

3tablespoonsoliveoil

3clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushedwithalittlewatertoformapaste2cups(500ml)water½teaspooncumin½teaspoonpaprika

3 lb (1½kg) fresh fava (broad) beans, or 2 lb (1 kg) frozen beans, shelledSeason themeatwith salt andpepper.Heat oil in a largepot andbrown themeat for 5minutes.Addthegarlic,water,andspices.Bringtoaboil,thenlowerheatand simmer for 35minutes. Add the beans and cook for a further 15minutes if you like them firm. In Morocco, the beans should bethoroughlycooked,atleast20minutesormore.Removefromheat.

Arrangethemeatonaplatter.Addthesauceand,tofinish,thebeans.

MARQUABALKASTELDIALTLEMCENTlemcenChestnutStew

ThisrecipeoriginatesfromTlemcen,aprettyAlgeriantownsome50miles(80km)fromtheMoroccanborder.Ifyouareusingdriedchestnuts,youmustwashandsoakthemincoldwaterthedaybeforeyouintendtocook.Alternatively,usevacuum-packedorcannedchestnutswhichdonotneedtobepresoakedandarefastertocook.

3tablespoonsoliveoil

2 ½ lb (1¼ kg) lamb shoulder, cut into bitesized pieces 2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced½teaspoonsalt

¼teaspoonsaffronthreads¼teaspoongroundnutmeg

1stickcinnamon,brokenintwo1cup(250ml)water

13 oz (400 g) dried chestnuts, or 1 lb (500 g) vacuum-packed or canned chestnuts1 tablespoonsugar

1tablespoonorangeflowerwater

Ina largepot,heat theoil, thenadd themeatandbrown foraminuteor two.Addtheonions,salt,spices,andwater,thenstir,andbringtoaboil.

Ifusingpresoaked,driedchestnuts,addtothepan,reduceheatandsimmer45minutes.Ifusingvacuum-packedorcannedchestnuts,allowthemeattocookfor30minutesbeforeaddingthechestnuts.Checkfromtimetotimeandaddanextra½cup(125ml)waterifthesaucehasevaporated.Checkfordoneness:thechestnutsshouldbesoftandthemeattender.

Nextaddthesugarandtheorangeflowerwater.Reducethesauceoverlowheatuntilitthickens.

Arrangethemeatinaservingdish,coverwiththechestnuts,andpouroverthesauce.

DAL’AAM’AMRAB’KASKSOUWATMARShoulderofLambwithCouscousandDateStuffing

1teaspoonsalt

1shoulderoflamb,about3lb(1½kg),bonedandbutterfliedreadyforstuffing¼teaspoonsaffronthreads

½teaspoonpepper

1tablespoonbutter

1tablespoonsmen,or5tablespoonssaltedbutterStuffing½cup(100g)raisins

1tablespoonorangeflowerwater8oz(250g)cookedcouscous½cup(100g)butter,melted½cup(100g)sugar

1teaspoongroundcinnamon

¾ cup (100 g) almonds, peeled and chopped 1 cup (150 g) dates, pits (stones) removed, diced

Garnish6-8almonds,peeledandtoasted

6-8dates,pits(stones)removedRubthesaltintothemeatandsteaminthetopofacouscoussierfor1hour,checkingregularlythatthewaterhasnotboiledoff.

Toprepare the stuffing, soak the raisins inwaterwith½ tablespoonof the

orange flowerwater for15minutes.Thencombinethecouscous(seepage32),meltedbutter,soakedraisins,sugar,cinnamon,choppedalmonds,dates,andtheremainingorangeflowerwater.Setaside.

Inahowl,mixthesaffron,pepper,butter,andsmen.Removethemeatfromthesteamerandcoatitwiththepreparedsaffron-buttermix.Stuffthelambwiththestuffingand,usinganeedleandstrongcookingthread,sewtheopeningshut.Roastfor30minutesinanovenpreheatedto250°F(180°C,gas4).

Whilethemeatisroasting,preparethegarnishbystuffingeachdatewithatoastedalmond.

Placetheroastonaservingplatter,thencutthethreadtoallowthestuffingtospillout.Garnishthemeatwiththestuffeddates.

Helpfulhint:Useacoloredthreadtosewthemeatsoitiseasiertolocatewhencarving.

TAGINEBELGHALMIWALBARKOUKWAGELJLANE

LambTaginewithPrunesandSesameSeeds3lb(1½kg)shoulderor

neckoflamb,cutinto6-8pieces5tablespoonsoliveoil

1stickcinnamon

3teaspoonsgroundsaffronor10saffronthreads½teaspoongroundblackpepper2onions,peeledandthinlysliced

1teaspoonsalt11½oz(350g)prunes½cup(100g)sugar

1teaspoongroundcinnamon½cup(100g)butter½cup(125ml)water

Garnish1¼cups(150g)almonds,peeledandtoasted(seepage40)Handfultoastedsesameseeds

Placemeat ina largepotwithoil,cinnamonstick,saffron,pepper,andonions.Addsalt,coverwithwater,bringtoaboil,andsimmer1hour.

When themeat isdone, remove it fromthepotandkeepcovered.Discardthecinnamonstick.

Addtheprunes,sugar,groundcinnamon,andbuttertothepot.Stirinthe½cup water, mix and simmer, covered, until the sauce thickens to a syrupy

consistency.Returnthemeat tothepotalongwithany juice ithasreleasedandsimmer

forafurther15minutes.Serve themeat ina largedishwith the sauceandprunes,andgarnishwith

toastedsesameseedsandasprinklingofalmonds.

MECHOUISpit-mastedLamb

Therearenumerouswaystoprepareamechoui.TownsfolkinMoroccogenerallytakethemeattothelocalbakertobecookedinhisbreadovenbuttraditionallyitisroastedonaspit intheopenair.Alargeholeisdugintheground1½yards(1½m)long,2feet(60cm)wide,and1½feet(50cm)deep.Awoodenfireislitintheholeandthecookswaitforemberstoform.Thewholelambisthreadedontoaspitandbalancedonforkedpolesthathavebeenplacedoneithersideofthepit.Thelambisthencookedforabout6hoursduringwhichtimeitisbastedfromtimetotimewithmelted,saltedbutter.

For those unsure about digging up their garden,mechoui can be rotisseriegrilledabovealargebarbecuegrillorroastedinaconventionaloven.

1youngmilk-fedlamb,15-20lb(8-10kg)forrotisseriegrillingaboveabarbecuegrill,or1legorshoulderoflambforroasting1½cups(300g)butter,meltedandmixedwith1tablespoonsalt

Condiments2tablespoonssalt2tablespoonsgroundpepper

2tablespoonscuminpowder

Ifusingalargebarbecuegrill,lightthecharcoal(arrangethecoalsintwopilesateachendsotheyarebelowtheshoulderandthighs)andruntheturnspitthroughthelamb,startingfromtherear.Insertthetwo-prongedskewersateachendtohold the lamb in place and use wire to fasten the lamb to the turnspit ifnecessary.Rub the lambwith the salted butter, then attach the turnspit to therotisserieBasteitwiththeremainingsaltedbutterevery30minutes.Afterabout2hoursrakesomeofthecoalstothecenterofthepitforcookingthebellyofthelamb.Afterabout3to3½hourscheckfordoneness.Themeatisdonewhenthe

outsideisdarkbrownandcrispy,themeatisbeginningtosplit,andtheinternaltemperatureisabout170°F(80°C).Removethelambfromabovethefireandrestfor15minutesbeforetakingouttheturnspit.

Ifusingaconventionaloven,cookthebastedlegorshoulderat500°F(250°C,gas 10) for 30mins then reduce heat to 300°F (150°C, gas 2) and continue tocook,bastingoccasionally,untilthelambisdone(about25minsper½lb/1kg.)Fill three small bowlswith salt, pepper, and cumin. Place the lamb on a largeservingplatter,andserveitaccompaniedwiththecondiments.Amechouicanbeservedwitheggplant,zucchini,andbellpeppersalads(seepages40to42).Serves12.

TAGINEKEFTABALBEIDMeatballTaginewithEggs

5 cups (800 g) ground veal (or any cut of beef for mincing) 1 large onion, peeled and finelychopped1bunchfreshcilantro(coriander)leaves,chopped

1teaspoonsalt½teaspoongroundpepper1teaspoonpaprika

5tablespoonsoliveorpeanutoil2largetomatoes,peeled,seeded,androughlychopped

6eggs

Inamixingbowl, combine theveal,onion, choppedcilantro, salt,pepper, andpaprika. Rinse your hands in cold water, then shape the balls by rolling themixturebetweenthepalmsofyourhands.Moistenyourhandsbetweenrollingeachmeatball.

Heat the oil in a tagine or other earthenware dish and sauté themeatballsovermedium-highheatfor15minutes.Halfwaythroughcookingthemeatballs,addthetomatoandmixwell.

Break the eggs over the meatballs as you would for fried eggs. Cover thetagineandcookforafurther3minutes.Servehot.Delicious!

Helpfulhint:Topeeltomatoes,scorethebasecrosswise,thentransfertoapan(off the heat). Pour boiling water over the tomatoes and leave for 1 minute.Drainand,whencool,slipofftheskins.

MARQUABALLA’GELWACHIFLOREVealStewwithCauliflower

Watertoboilcauliflower

2teaspoonssalt1headfirmcauliflower,brokenintoflorets

3tablespoonsoliveoil2½lb(1¼kg)stewingveal1onion,peeledandthinlysliced

2teaspoonspepper½teaspoonsaffronthreads

2bayleaves2cups(500ml)water

6eggs

2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed3tablespoonsall-purpose(plain)flourOilfordeep-frying

Bring a pot of water with 1 teaspoon of the salt added to a boil. Add thecauliflower,cookfor15minutes(orless,totaste),thendrain.

Inalargepot,place3tablespoonsoliveoil,theveal,onion,remainingsalt,1teaspoonofpepper,saffron,bayleaves,and2cups(500ml)water.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,taste,correctseasoning,andcover.Reduceheatandsimmerfor

45minutes.Meanwhile,breaktheeggsintoamixingbowlandbeat.Addtheremaining

pepper,mix,addthegarlic,mixagain,andsetaside.Puttheflouronaplateandsetaside.

Heattheoilinafryingpan.Takeacauliflowerfloret,dipfirstinegg,theninflour, then fry inoil, ensuring that eachpiece is evenlybrowned, about 5 to 7minutes. Drain on paper towels. Cook all the cauliflower in this way, addingmoreflourifnecessary.Removethevealfromtheheat.Transferit toaservingdishandarrangethecauliflowerontop.

MARQUABALBARANIAForeigners’ChickenandEggplantStewIwasborninabordertownwhere“immigration”wasacommonword.Recipesalsoemigrate,settle,

andmoveon,sometimesdepartingunchanged,sometimesaltered,ontheirwaytomoredistanthorizons.Thisisonesuchrecipethatwasjustpassingthrough.

1onion,peeledandthinlysliced1free-rangechicken,cutinto6pieces1cup(250ml)water1garlicbulb,leftwhole3tablespoonsoliveoil1teaspoonsalt

1teaspoongroundblackpepper1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonpaprika1bunchflatleafparsley,chopped1bunchfreshcilantro(coriander)leaves,choppedOilfordeep-

frying

2lb(1kg)eggplant(aubergines),sliced¾in(2cm)thick,wipedcleanGarnish1preservedlemon,chopped(seepage43)Inalargepot,puttheonion,chicken,water,

wholeheadofgarlic,oil,salt,spices,andherbs.Bringtoaboil,thenlowerheat,andsimmer,covered,for45minutes.

Heat theoil fordeep-frying in apananddeep-fry the eggplant slices, thenremovewithaslottdespoonanddrainonpaper towels.Slice theeggplant intothinstrips.

Arrangethechickenonaplatter,makealittlenestofeggplantoneachpieceofchicken,thengarnishwithchoppedpreservedlemon.

TAGINEBALGHAMIWAKARMOUSSEChickenTaginewithFigs

Chicken

2tablespoonsoliveoil

1free-rangechicken,cutinto8pieces2onions,peeledandsliced2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed½teaspoongroundginger½teaspoonsaltSeveralsaffronthreads

1bunchfreshcilantro(coriander)leaves,chopped1cup(250ml)water5tablespoonsbutter

1tablespoonhoney

5tablespoonsbutterorsmen(seepage31)Figs

1teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoongroundginger½teaspoonnutmeg½teaspoongroundpepper½teaspoonsalt

1tablespoonwater2lb(1kg)freshfigs

Garnish6½ oz (200 g) shelled and halved walnuts To prepare the figs, in a mixing bowl,

combine the spices, salt, and water. Add the figs, toss gently, andmarinatefor1hour.

Meanwhile, in a cast ironpot, place theoil, chicken,onions, garlic, ginger,salt, saffron,andcilantro.Add thewater,bring toaboil, thenreduceheatandsimmerfor45minutes,stirringfromtimetotime.

Preparetwoskillets.Melt5tablespoonsbutterinone.Drainthefigs,placeinthepanwiththehoneyandcookgentlyfor7minutes.

In the other pan,melt the remaining 5 tablespoons butter or smen.Drainchickenandbrowneachpiece.

Whenallthechickenhasbeenbrowned,arrangethepiecesonaplatterandpour the warm cooking juices over the chicken. Garnish with the figs andsprinklewithwalnuthalves.

TAGINEDJAJEBAZITOUNEWAL’HAMED

ChickenTaginewithOlivesandPreservedLemons1free-rangechicken

4tablespoonsoliveorpeanutoil½teaspoonsaltPinchofgroundpepperPinchofgroundgingerPinchofsaffronthreads

1 stick cinnamon or½ teaspoon ground cinnamon1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced1 tomato,peeled, seeded and chopped 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 bunch fresh cilantro(coriander)leaves,chopped4clovesgarlic,whole

2cups(500ml)water

6½ oz (200 g) olives, preferably purple 1 preserved lemon (see page 43) In a heavy pot,brownthechickeninoilwiththesalt, spices,andonion, for7minutes,stirringthemeattocolorevenly.Addthetomato,herbs,andwholegarliccloves. Add the water, bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for 45minutes.

Whenthemeatiscooked,takealadleofstockfromthepotandheatitinasmallsaucepanwiththeolivesandlemons.Reducestockforatleastfiveminutes.

Whenserving,arrangethechickeninatagine,coverwithsauce,olives,andlemons.Servebreadasanaccompaniment(seepage35).

TAGINEBADJAJEWAMACHMACHEWALOUZ

ChickenTaginewithDriedApricotsandPineNutsChicken

1free-rangechicken,cutinto6pieces4tablespoonspeanutoil

1teaspoonsalt½teaspoongroundpepper¼teaspoongroundgingerPinchofsaffronthreads

1stickcinnamon

2smallonions,peeledandthinlysliced1cup(250ml)water3½oz(100g)pinenuts,toastedina

drypan(donotbum)Apricots1lb(500g)driedapricots,rinsed1cup(250ml)water½cup(100g)sugar

1teaspooncinnamon½cup(100g)butter

Topreparetheapricots,placetheminasaucepanwithwater,sugar,cinnamon,andbutter.Bringtoaboil.Cookover lowheat,uncovered,until the liquidhasreducedtoasyrupyconsistency.

In a large pot, brown the pieces of chicken in hot oil. Season with salt,pepper,ginger,saffron,andcinnamonstick.Addtheonionsandwater.Simmer

for 30minutes, coveredover lowheat.When the chicken is done, arrange thepiecesofmeatwiththesauceonaservingplatter.Garnishwithapricotsandpinenuts.

L’HMAMEMAARARB’KASKSOUCouscous-stuffedPigeon

⅔cup(100g)darkraisins2cups(500ml)water

1tablespoonorangeflowerwater

1¼cups(250g)fine-graincouscous5tablespoonssmenorsaltedbutter¾cup(100g)almonds,blanchedandpeeled,sautéedinoiluntilgolden,choppedPinchofnutmeg

½teaspoonsaffron

1tablespoonhoney

6 pigeons, cleaned and prepared by the butcher 2 onions, peeled and cut in thick slices 3tablespoonsoliveoil

1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonwhitepepper½teaspoongroundginger3cloves

2cinnamonsticks2cups(500g)water

Soak the dark raisins in 2 cups (500ml) ofwater and 1 tablespoon of orangeflowerwaterfor1hour.Drainwell.

Preparethecouscousaccordingtotheinstructionsonpage30.Placeit inalargemixingbowl.Add the smenorbutter, choppedalmonds,drained raisins,

nutmeg,saffron,andhoney.Mixwell.Stuffthepigeonswithhalfofthemixtureandsewthemshutusingalargeneedleandthread.

Placetheonionsinalargepotwith3tablespoonsoliveoil.Placethepigeonson top. Seasonwith salt and pepper and the remaining spices and add 2 cups(500ml)water.Coverandcontinuecookingoverhighheat fora fewminutes.Taste and correct seasoning. Lower the heat and cook for 1 hour. Check thesauceandaddanadditional½cup(125ml)water, ifneeded.Meanwhile,heatthereservedcouscous.

Arrangethepigeononadish,removethestringandservewiththeadditionalcouscous.

B’STILLABALHOUTEMoroccanSeafoodPie

1quart(1liter)mussels,washed3tablespoonsoliveoil3 clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed2plumptomatoes,peeledanddiced1onion,peeledandcut

intothickslices1lemon,cutinhalf,onehalfjuicedandtheotherhalfdiced(withpeelon)1teaspoonsalt

½teaspoongroundpepper½teaspoongroundpaprika½teaspoongroundcumin

10oz(300g)mushrooms,wipedcleanandsliced2carrots,grated6½oz(200g)squid,cutinstrips6½oz(200g)Europeanpollack(pollock)orothercod-likefish,

cutinlargechunks11½oz(350g)mediumshrimps(prawns),washed1cup(200g)butter20 sheetswaarkaor filo pastry2hunches fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves, chopped2hunches

flat-leafparsley,chopped1eggyolk6blackolivesLemonshoestogarnish

Place themussels in a largepot, cover, and cook for 7 to 9minutes overhighheat.Themusselsshouldopen.Removethemeatanddiscardtheshells,aswellasanyunopenedmussels.Setasideinamixingbowl.

Inthesamepot,heattheoilandaddthegarlic,tomatoes,onion,lemonjuice,dicedlemon,salt,pepper,paprika,cumin,mushrooms,andgratedcarrots.Cookovermedium-highheat,covered,5to8minutes.

Addthesquidandcontinuetocookfor10minutes;addthefishandshrimpsandcooka further10minutes.Turnoff theheat and remove the shrimps.Setaside about 18 shrimps for garnish, two-thirds of them peeled, the rest leftunpeeled.Peeltheremainingshrimpsandreturntothepot.

Brushthebutterononesideofeachsheetofwaarka(orfilo).Buttera15-in(35-cm) baking pan. In the middle of the pan, place 4 sheets of pastry,

overlapping.Arrangeanother8sheets inaringextendingoutover theedgeofthepan.Fillthepanhalf-fullwiththeseafoodmixture,drainedofitssauce.Foldthe overhanging leaves towards the middle, and cover with a second layer offilling.Coverwiththeremainingsheetsandformaseamwiththepastryovertheedges.Sealwitheggyolk.Bakefor20minutesat400°F(200°C,gas6).Unmoldontoaservingdishandgarnishwithshrimps(unpeeledandpeeled),olives,andlemonslices.

TAGINEBALHOUTFishTagine

InMorocco,weenjoyeatingshadandpandorafish.Allisshadisoftendifficulttofindandcautionshouldbeexercisedwheneatingitbecauseof itsmanybones.To make this tagine, you can use European pollack (pollock) instead of thepandorafish.

3tablespoonsoliveoil3 lb (1½ kg) European pollack (pollock), pandora, or any cod-like fish, cut into 6½-oz (200-g)

pieces3plumptomatoes,peeledandcutinrings1greenhellpepper(capsicum),cutinrings3clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed1preservedlemon,cutinwedges(seepage43;youcanalsosubstitute½ofafreshlemon,hutthetastewillhedifferent)6½oz(200g)olives

½teaspoongroundpepper½teaspoongroundcumin2cups(500ml)water

1 hunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 hunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves, chopped In aneathernwaretagineorlarge,cast-ironpan,heattheoilandaddthepiecesoffish,tomato,greenbellpepper,garlic,preservedlemoncutintowedges(or half fresh lemon), olives, pepper, cumin, andwater. Simmer for 35minutesifusingapot,45minutesifusingatagine.

Serveinthetagineorarrangethefishinadish,garnishedwiththetomato,pepper,olives,lemon,parsley,andcilantro.

SARDINEMAAMRINEStuffedSardines

Allow three sardines per person and try to find the smaller, less oily,Mediterraneansardines.

2lb(1kg)sardines,bonedandcutinhalflengthwaysbythefishmonger

2tablespoonsoliveoil½lemon,thinlysliced½teaspoonsalt½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongroundcumin

¼teaspoongroundwhitepepper2plumptomatoes,peeled,seeded,andchopped2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed

4tablespoonswater3½cup(100g)olives

Stuffing1 bunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves, chopped 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped 2 cloves

garlic,peeledandcrushedJuiceof½lemon

1tablespoonrice½teaspoonsalt½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongroundcumin¼teaspoongroundwhitepepper

2tablespoonsoliveoil

Toprepare the stuffing, combine thecilantro,parsley, garlic, lemon juice, rice,salt,turmeric,cumin,pepper,andoil.Mixwellandsetaside.

Placehalfasardineonaplate,coverwithatablespoonofstuffing,thencoverwiththesecondfillet.Stuffallthesardinesthesameway.

Onabakingtray,spreadtheoil,lemonslices,salt,thespices,tomatoes,andgarlic.Youmayalsoaddanyleftoverstuffing.Arrangethesardinesneatlyoverthismixtureandadd4tablespoonsofwater.Bakeat400to425°F(200to220°C,gas6to7),for20minutes.

Serveonaplatterwiththebakedlemonsandolives.

KASKOUBELHOUTFishCouscous

3tablespoonsoil2onions,peeledandsliced

2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed2smallwholeeggplants(aubergines)3carrots,peeledandcutinhalf3turnips,peeledandcutinhalf1lb(500g)squash(marrow),peeledandcutinhalf2tomatoes,peeledanddiced

½lemon

1teaspooncumin

1 hunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves 4 cups (1 liter) lightly salted water 3 good-sized seabream,scaled,gutted,andrinsedclean6piecesEuropeanpollack(pollock)orseabassPinchsalt

5cups(1kg)fine-graincouscous½teaspoongroundsaffron

Inapot,placetheoil,onions,garlic,andvegetables.Addlemon,cumin,cilantro,and 4 cups (1 liter) salted water. Cover and cook over medium heat for 25minutes.Dropthefishintothestock,cookfor10minutes, thenremove.Bringthestockhacktoaboil,addthesalt,anddiscardthecilantro.

While thevegetablesarecooking,make thecouscousas instructedonpage30,addingthesaffrontocolorandflavorthegrains.

Servethecouscousinadishwiththefishinthemiddle,surroundedbythevegetables.Ladlealittlestockoverthedishandserveextrastockontheside.

BTATAB’FLIOUWildThymePotatoes

Thissimpledishissurprisinglytastyandcanhepreparedveryquickly.

1bunchwildthyme3tablespoonsoliveoil

1onion,peeledandthinlysliced1teaspoonsaltPinchofwhitepepper1cup(250ml)water

3 lb (1½ kg) new potatoes (alternatively use roseval or any other firm, waxy variety) 2 plumptomatoes,peeledandslicedQuicklyrinsethethyme,reserveafewwholesprigsforthegarnish,andremovetheflowersandleavesfromtheothersprigs.

Inalargepot,preferablycastiron,heattheoilandsautétheonionfor5to7minutesuntilgolden.Addsalt,pepper,andwaterandbring toaboil.Add thepotatoes and tomatoes, cover, reduce heat, and cook for 10minutes. Add thethymeleavesandflowers,coveragain,andcookforafurther15minutes.Tasteandcorrectseasoning,ifnecessary.

Transfertoaservingdish.Thepotatoesshouldhecookedthrough,hutfirm.Addthesauceandgarnishwiththereservedthyme.

KASKOULAKDAR“Green”Couscous

1lb(500g)zucchini(courgettes),blossomsattachedifpossible1onion,peeledandquartered

1teaspoonsalt½teaspoonwhitepepper½teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoonsaffronthreads

Harissa or other chili paste (see page 32) 1 bunch fresh cilantro (coriander) leaves 6 cups (1½liters)water

3tablespoonsoliveoil

11½oz(350g)freshfava(broad)beans(or3½oz/200gfrozen),shelled8oz(250g)freshpeas(or5 oz/150 g frozen), shelled 5 cups (1 kg)medium-grain couscousWash the zucchini,reservesixforthegarnish,andcuttheothersinquarters.

Inalargepot,placetheonion,salt,spices,cilantro,andwater.Bringtoaboil,tasteandcorrecttheseasoning.Andtheoil,beans,peas,andzucchini.Cookfor20minutesoverlowheat.

Meanwhile, cook the couscous according to the instructions on page 30.Serve in large, shallow dish, preferably in earthenware. Make a dome ofcouscous. Flatten the top of the dome and place the vegetables in themiddle.Pourthestockoverthevegetables.

Helpful hint:Connoisseurs should use fine couscous. If you enjoy spicy food,omittheharissaandservewithfreshgreenorredchilies.Harissaisamixtureofchilies and spices that can overpower the subtle flavors of this vegetablecouscous.

BISSARADALFOULLYABESSFavaBeanPurée

Bissaraisapauper’sdishthathasbecomethefoodofkings.Itissucculentandcanbeservedasafirstcourseorasasoupwiththeeveningmeal.

2tablespoonsoliveoil

1lb(500g)driedfava(broad)beans6clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundpaprika

2teaspoonssalt2quarts(2liters)water

Garnish1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundpaprika

1tablespoonoliveoil

In a large pot, heat the oil and cook the beans, uncovered, overmediumheatwiththegarlic,cumin,paprika,salt,andwater.Stirfromtimetotime.

Whenthebeansareverywellcooked,about1hour,putthroughafoodmill,thenreheatforafewminutes.Pourintoashallowdish.

Enjoy yourbissarahot or cold,with a sprinkling of cumin, paprika, and adrizzleofoliveoil.

HARBELWheatPudding

8oz(250g)whole-grainwheat,soakedin2cups(500ml)waterwith1½teaspoonssaltfor1hour2cups(500ml)water½teaspoonsalt

4 cups (1 liter) milk 1 tablespoon superfine (caster) sugar 1 tablespoon orange flower water

Garnish4 tablespoons honeyDrain the wheat, then bring to a boil in 2 cups (500ml)

waterwith½teaspoonsalt,andsimmerfor35minutes.Drainagain.Bringthemilktoaboilandaddthewheat,sugar,andorangeflowerwater.

Simmerforanadditional10minutes.Servehotlikeasoupwithhoneyontop.

MHANCHATheSnake

Almondpaste1 lb (500 g) almonds, blanched and peeled⅔ cup (150 g) superfine (caster) sugar 1 teaspoon

groundcinnamon

2tablespoonsorangeflowerwater

¾cup(150g)butter,softenedPastry20sheetswaarkaorfilopastry

1eggwhite½cup(100g)butter3½oz(200g)honey

Preparethealmondpastebyputtingthealmondsandthesugarthroughafoodmill (or a food processor). Add the cinnamon, orange flower water, and softbutter.Mixuntilthepasteholdsitsshapeinaball.Thenrollthepasteintolongsnake-likerolls.Setaside.

On your work surface, place the sheets ofwaarka in a long row, slightlyoverlapping.Sealtheseamsbetweenthesheetswithslightlybeateneggwhite.

Preheatovento400°F(200°C,gas6).Lineupthesnakesofalmondpastealongthelengthofthepastry,thenroll

thepasteinthepastry.Carefullycoilthesnakeintoaspiral.Transfer the snake to a buttered, round baking dish. To make the pastry

crisp,evenlydistributelittlepiecesofbutteroverthesurfaceofthepastry.Bake10minutesuntilgolden.

Remove from oven and cover with slightly warmed honey. Cool beforeserving.

SEFFACinnamonRicePudding

2¾cups(600g)short-grain(pudding)rice

1tablespoonoil2cups(500ml)milk¾cup(150g)butter

1teaspoongroundcinnamon

2teaspoonsconfectioners’(icing)sugar3½oz(100g)almonds,blanchedandpeeledOilfordeep-frying

Inamixingboil, coat thericeevenlywith theoil.Steamin theupperhalfofacouscoussierfor10minutesaboveboilingwater.

Rinse therice incoldwaterandreturnto themixingbowl.Sprinklewithalittlemilk,andsteamforanother10minutes.Repeattheprocess7times.

Theseventhtimeyousteamtherice,foldinthebutter,separatingthegrainsofrice.

Ona servingdish,makeadomewith the rice. Starting from the top,drawlinesofsugarandcinnamonontherice.Garnishwithalmondsandservehot.

KNAFFALayeredCustardStacks&LayeredMilkStacksLAYERED

CUSTARDSTACKS

4cups(1liter)milk

1¼cups(200g)superfine(caster)sugar2eggs,beaten3tablespoonsorangeflower(orrose)water12sheetswaarkaorfilopastry5tablespoonsbutter10dates

18shelledwalnuthalves

Tomakethecustard,bringthemilkjusttoboilingpointinasaucepan,addthesugarandmixwell.Removefromheatandaddtheeggsoneatatime,whiskingthoroughly.Returntoheat,stirringconstantly.Bringtoaboil,removefromheatandaddtheorangeorrosewater,thenleavetocool.

Paste two sheetsofwaarka togetherwitha littlebutter.Thiswillmake thelayersmore stablewhen assembling. In a frying pan over lowheat, toast untilgoldeninalittlemorebutter.Cookallthepastryinpairsinthesamemanner.

When ready to serve, alternate layers of pastry with the custard. Decoratewithdatesandwalnuts.

LAYEREDMILKSTACKS

1lb(500g)almonds,withtheirskins

2tablespoonspeanutoil

⅔cup(150g)superfine(caster)sugar12sheetswaarkaorfilopastry

5tablespoonsbutter

2cups(500ml)milk

½ tablespoon orange flower waterNowadays, you will find that this recipe oftenreplacestheoneforlayeredcustardstacks,asitiseasiertoprepare.

Blanchandpeelthealmonds,thenfryintheoil,drainonpapertowels,andchop.Addthesugartothealmondsandmix.Setaside.

Preparethewaarkaasintherecipeforlayeredcustardstacks.Onaservingplatter,place the firstpairofwaarkasheetsandsprinklewith

almond/sugarmixture.Continue stacking, alternating layers, and finishwith alayerofpastry.Justbeforeserving,pourwarmmilkflavoredwithorangeflowerwateroverthedish.

ASSIRLOUZTraditionalAlmondMilk&EnrichedAlmondMilk

TRADITIONALALMONDMILK

4¾cups(600g)almonds4cups(1liter)water

1 cup (250 g) superfine (caster) sugar1 teaspoon orange flowerwater (optional)Fill a largesaucepan with water. Bring to a boil. Add the almonds and cook 5minutes. Drain the almonds, rub them in your hand to remove skins,thenwipedry.Poundintoasmoothpaste.

In a food processor, place the almonds, water, and sugar, and mixthoroughly.Addorangeflowerwaterandserveverycold.

ENRICHEDALMONDMILK

4¾cups(600g)almonds

4 cups (1 liter) low-fat (semi-skim) milk 1¼ cups (300 g) superfine (caster) sugar 1 teaspoonorangeflowerwater(optional)Prepareasforthepreviousrecipebutinsteadofwater,usemilk.Itisricher,butitisverygood!

ATAIBANANAGreenMintTea

4cups(1liter)water1teaspoonGunpowdertea,orotherChinesegreentea4-6lumpsofsugar

1bunchfreshmint

Start by boiling thewater. Put the tea in a small teapot.Add 1 or 2 glasses ofboilingwater,thendiscardthewater,makingsuretoleavethetea leavesinthepot.Washandpatdrythemintandaddtotheteapot.Ofcourse,themoremintyouuse,themorefragranttheteawillbe.Filltheteapotwithboilingwater,notsimmeringwaterasyouwouldforblacktea.

Addthesugar.Closethelidandpouroutaglassoftea.Pourthecontentsoftheglassback into the teapot and repeat3or4 timesuntil the ingredients arecompletelymixed.Serve.

IndexNote:Pagenumberscorrespondtotheprintedition.

BreadsandSnacksBride’sFingers38BriwattesB’arroz37BriwattesBa37CheeseTriangles37CityBread36CountryBread35CrispyMoroccanCrêpes38KhobzEdDar36Matoula35RiceTriangles37RollsScentedwithNigellaSeeds36

DessertsAlmondTriangles112AlmondCigars112BarwatBaLouz112CigarsBaLouz112CinnamonRicePuddingGazelleHorns114Harbel104KaabElGhozal114Knaffa110LayeredCustardStacks110LayeredMilkStacks110Mhancha106Seffa108TheSnake106WheatPudding104

DrinksAssirLouz116AtaiBaNa’na118EnrichedAlmondMilk116GreenMintTea118TraditionalAlmondMilk116

FishandSeafoodB’stillaBalHoute88FishCouscous94FishTagine90KaskouBelHout94L’houtBaLouzWaTmare96MoroccanSeafoodPie88RockCodwithAlmondsandDates96SardineMaamrine92StuffedSardines92TagineBalHout90

MeatDal’aaM’amraB’kasksouWatmar62Foreigners’ChickenandEggplantStew72KasksouTfaya54LambConfitwithRaisinsandAlmonds46LambCouscouswithOnions54LambTaginewithFavaBeans56LambTaginewithOnions52LambTaginewithPrunesandSesameSeeds64LambTaginewithQuince48LambTaginewithZucchiniandMint62Lamb,Pea,andArtichokeStew50MaquaBaJeblaneWaKorni50MarquaBalBarania72MarquaBalKastelDialTlemcen58

MarquaBalLa’gelWaChiflore70MeatballTaginewithEggs68Mechoui66Mourouziya46ShoulderofLambwithCouscousandDateStuffing62Spit-roastedLamb66TagineBalGhalmiWaAlfoul56TagineBalGhalmiWaGharaaWaNa’na’60TagineBelGhalmiWalBarkoukWaGeljlane64TagineBelGhalmiWalSfargel48TagineKeftaBalBeid68TagineMakfoul52TlemcenChestnutStew58VealStewwithCauliflower70

PoultryandGameB’stillaBalHmame86ChickenTaginewithDriedApricotsandPineNuts80ChickenTaginewithFigs74ChickenTaginewithOlivesandPreservedLemons78Couscous-StuffedPigeon84DjajeBaSanouj76DjajeMfewar82L’hmameMaararB’kasksou84MoroccanPigeonPie86NigellaSeedChicken76StuffedSteamedChicken82TagineBaDjajeWaMachmacheWaLouz80TagineBalGhamiWaKarmousse74TagineDjajeBaZitouneWaL’hamed78

SaladsCarrotandCuminSalad42CarrotSaladwithOrangeJuice41EggplantPuree41EggplantSalad40FreshFavaBeanSalad42LimesM’rakade43MateshaM’aasla43RoastedBellPepperSalad40SaltedPreservedLemons43ShladaB’khizouWalCamoune42ShladaBaDanjale40ShladaBaKhizouWaLimoune41ShladaBalFoule42ShladaBalGharaa42ShladaBalfelaflaMeshouia40TomatoJam43Zaalouk41ZucchiniSalad42

SoupHariraBaKarouia44MoroccanCarawaySoup44

VegetablesGreenCouscous100BissaraDalFoulLyabess102BtataB’fliou98FavaBeanPuree102KaskouLakdar100WildThymePotatoes98