THE EVOLUTION OF THE EVOLUTION OF BEAUTY THROUGHOUT BEAUTY THROUGHOUT

HISTORYHISTORY

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

There are five concepts of beauty There are five concepts of beauty throughout History: beauty, aesthetic throughout History: beauty, aesthetic experience, art, artistic creation and a experience, art, artistic creation and a reality copy.reality copy.

The sense which Greeks gave to these The sense which Greeks gave to these concepts were very different from the concepts were very different from the concepts of nowadays. Even if the words are concepts of nowadays. Even if the words are similar, their meaning is different.similar, their meaning is different.

Part of these concepts were developed Part of these concepts were developed before they were used by philosophers later before they were used by philosophers later on.on.

We must not forget the tastes of the time We must not forget the tastes of the time and work of arts belong to aesthetic history.and work of arts belong to aesthetic history.

EGYPTEGYPT

Nowadays scientists have Nowadays scientists have different opinionsdifferent opinions about about how the concept of beauty has developed over how the concept of beauty has developed over the years.the years.

Ancient Egypt: Cleopatra and other kings of Egypt Ancient Egypt: Cleopatra and other kings of Egypt were improving their were improving their cosmeticcosmetic over the years. They over the years. They used different kind of products such as oils, used different kind of products such as oils, perfumes…. Many oils were also used as sun perfumes…. Many oils were also used as sun protectors for the inhabitants.protectors for the inhabitants.

Egyptians also had diets. Egyptian women such as Egyptians also had diets. Egyptian women such as dancers, handmaids… also shaved their hair off dancers, handmaids… also shaved their hair off their arms, legs and other parts of their body. their arms, legs and other parts of their body. Their bodies shone because they used lots of oils Their bodies shone because they used lots of oils and creams which also protected them from and creams which also protected them from insects. To have their skin soft and supple, insects. To have their skin soft and supple, workers of the empire were sometimes paid with workers of the empire were sometimes paid with cosmetics. (Oils, creams …) They ate more cosmetics. (Oils, creams …) They ate more vegetables, fruits and less meat than we do vegetables, fruits and less meat than we do today. They watched their weight carefully. today. They watched their weight carefully.

Many people think that Egyptians’ concept of Many people think that Egyptians’ concept of beauty was better than it is now. beauty was better than it is now.

The king representations were enormous, the king The king representations were enormous, the king was very important for the Egyptians.was very important for the Egyptians.

THE CLASSICAL GREEK THE CLASSICAL GREEK AND ROMAN WORLDAND ROMAN WORLD

Ideal aesthetics in the Classical period were Ideal aesthetics in the Classical period were based on the sculpture. Beauty was conceived based on the sculpture. Beauty was conceived as a result of mathematical calculus, as a result of mathematical calculus, measured proportions and symmetry. measured proportions and symmetry.

The pioneer of the Greek theory about bThe pioneer of the Greek theory about b eauty eauty was Polyclitus, who made the “Cannon”, was Polyclitus, who made the “Cannon”, nowadays lost. The male beauty and the nowadays lost. The male beauty and the female beauty were based on symmetry, female beauty were based on symmetry, which says that the body is beautiful when all which says that the body is beautiful when all the parts are proportional to the whole figure. the parts are proportional to the whole figure. But there are small differences between male But there are small differences between male beauty and female beauty.beauty and female beauty.

POLYCLITUS :POLYCLITUS :Polyclitus, was a Greek sculptor who formulated an artistic Polyclitus, was a Greek sculptor who formulated an artistic cannon, a collection of rules, elaborated with mathematical cannon, a collection of rules, elaborated with mathematical calculus whose aim was the perfect representation of human calculus whose aim was the perfect representation of human body.body.The main objective of the book was to study the proportion of The main objective of the book was to study the proportion of the different parts which form the anatomy.the different parts which form the anatomy.The most well-known proportions are the measure of the head, The most well-known proportions are the measure of the head, this must be seven times smaller than the one of the body. this must be seven times smaller than the one of the body. In In the the Doríforo, Polyclitus showed the idealized image of a naked Doríforo, Polyclitus showed the idealized image of a naked athleteathlete

Doríforo, Polyclitus

■LISIPO: THE CANON’S VARIATION LISIPO: THE CANON’S VARIATION The Greek sculptor Lisipo (IV bC) was The Greek sculptor Lisipo (IV bC) was

the the sculptor of Filipo II and Alexander the sculptor of Filipo II and Alexander the great. great. His sculpture the “Apoxiomeno”, His sculpture the “Apoxiomeno”, (the one (the one who takes off the oil) represents who takes off the oil) represents a young a young athlete who is naked and athlete who is naked and standing, who after standing, who after the competition the competition takes the dust with the takes the dust with the “strigilis”(a type of “strigilis”(a type of plant).plant).

PRAXITELES: THE PRAXITELES: THE FEMALE IDEAL OF FEMALE IDEAL OF BEAUTYBEAUTY

The most estimated piece The most estimated piece of art of Praxiteles is his of art of Praxiteles is his nude sculpture of nude sculpture of Aphrodite, which was in Aphrodite, which was in the city of Cnidus. The the city of Cnidus. The goodness of Love had goodness of Love had been always represented been always represented with clothes, like this with clothes, like this appears at the appears at the Parthenon's frieze. Parthenon's frieze. Praxiteles surprised her, Praxiteles surprised her, when she was getting out when she was getting out of the bathroom, she has of the bathroom, she has on a side the jar of the on a side the jar of the perfumes and the sheet perfumes and the sheet folded to wrap.folded to wrap.

Cnidus Aphrodite by Praxiteles

THE MIDDLE AGESTHE MIDDLE AGES

In The Middle Ages we find a beauty icon In The Middle Ages we find a beauty icon set in the barbarian invasions, which showed set in the barbarian invasions, which showed the Nordic beauty of nymphs and knights. the Nordic beauty of nymphs and knights.

Christian faith and morality imposed a strict Christian faith and morality imposed a strict model in clothing and it nearly led to the model in clothing and it nearly led to the disappearance of make up, which was disappearance of make up, which was against God’s creation. The ideal medieval against God’s creation. The ideal medieval woman painted by Jan van Eyck, showed woman painted by Jan van Eyck, showed paleness in the skin, blond hair, small and paleness in the skin, blond hair, small and rosy lips, thin torso and the bone structure rosy lips, thin torso and the bone structure like the Nordic women. As for men, they like the Nordic women. As for men, they were represented as the way of the were represented as the way of the authentic fighter knights: long hair, which authentic fighter knights: long hair, which indicates strength, freedom and virility; tall indicates strength, freedom and virility; tall and thin men, strong and vigorous, slender and thin men, strong and vigorous, slender and graceful, wide chest and shoulders.and graceful, wide chest and shoulders.

MODERN AGEMODERN AGERENAISSANCERENAISSANCE

The renaissance culture represents the return to The renaissance culture represents the return to rationalism and the study of the nature. The rationalism and the study of the nature. The nationalist feeling re-arises.nationalist feeling re-arises.

The renaissance spirit is sometimes contradictory: The renaissance spirit is sometimes contradictory: the beauty is between a realistic conception of the beauty is between a realistic conception of imitation of the nature and an ideal vision of imitation of the nature and an ideal vision of supernatural perfection. Making the visible world supernatural perfection. Making the visible world the way for ascend to a very the way for ascend to a very sensitive dimension.sensitive dimension.

According to Leonardo Da Vinci, According to Leonardo Da Vinci, the gloom is the body and the the gloom is the body and the light is the spirit, they light is the spirit, they are together.are together.

Mannerism started the modern Mannerism started the modern art: things were represented as art: things were represented as the artist saw them. The beauty the artist saw them. The beauty is relative, it passes from the is relative, it passes from the only beauty of the renaissance, only beauty of the renaissance, and which is stocked in science, and which is stocked in science, many concepts of beauty in the many concepts of beauty in the mannerism, derive from nature.mannerism, derive from nature.

For the mannerists the classic For the mannerists the classic beauty is empty, without spirit, beauty is empty, without spirit, opposing a spiritual, subjective opposing a spiritual, subjective and not regulated beauty.and not regulated beauty.

Ii is a period of scepticism, Ii is a period of scepticism, relativism where the human is relativism where the human is not the centre of the universe.not the centre of the universe.

MANNERISMMANNERISM

Mannerism is a period of European art that Mannerism is a period of European art that emerged from the later years of the Italian High emerged from the later years of the Italian High Renaissance around 1520. It lasted until about 1580 Renaissance around 1520. It lasted until about 1580 in Italy.in Italy.

La tempestad(Giorgione

They emphasise on personal conduct, They emphasise on personal conduct, appearance, reflecting an appearance, reflecting an active, elegant, refined, active, elegant, refined, exaggerated to take the exaggerated to take the name of “préciosité”.name of “préciosité”.

Rubens was one of the most Rubens was one of the most important painters in his time. In important painters in his time. In “The Three Graces” (1638) “The Three Graces” (1638) he showed three he showed three women who were women who were dancing and naked. dancing and naked.

BAROQUEBAROQUEThe baroque is the heir of the mannerism The baroque is the heir of the mannerism scepticism which is reflected in the authors of the scepticism which is reflected in the authors of the time. The beauty searches new ways of expression time. The beauty searches new ways of expression and emerging new aesthetics concepts like acuity, and emerging new aesthetics concepts like acuity, ingenuity, and insight.ingenuity, and insight.

LAS MENINAS By Diego Velázquez

EMPIRCISMEMPIRCISM The empiricism was developed in The empiricism was developed in

the United Kingdom. It is the the United Kingdom. It is the opposite of the French rationalism opposite of the French rationalism putting emphasis in the feelings. putting emphasis in the feelings. The empiricists defend the The empiricists defend the subjectivity of taste which has to subjectivity of taste which has to get free of the external rules to be get free of the external rules to be perceived by the human perceived by the human who is who is the one who interprets the the one who interprets the aesthetic judgments with his own aesthetic judgments with his own standards of opinion. According to standards of opinion. According to their argument, beauty is not their argument, beauty is not inherent in things but it is in the inherent in things but it is in the mind of the viewer, so they lay mind of the viewer, so they lay the foundations of aesthetic the foundations of aesthetic relativism.relativism.

Beauty is not a quality of the Beauty is not a quality of the things: It only exists in the mind of things: It only exists in the mind of the beholder and each mind the beholder and each mind perceives a different beauty.perceives a different beauty.

The Madonna with the long Neck by Parmigiano

ILLUSTRATIONILLUSTRATION The 16th century is based on a dual trend: the The 16th century is based on a dual trend: the

French Cartesian rationalism, which gives a French Cartesian rationalism, which gives a regulated aesthetics rules, and the empiricism, regulated aesthetics rules, and the empiricism, which offers an imaginative aesthetic. which offers an imaginative aesthetic.

The illustrated The illustrated aesthetic aesthetic focuses on focuses on issues of issues of human human physiology, physiology, making making aesthetic aesthetic feelings.feelings.

Felipe 5th´s family.

By Van Loo

20th 20th andand 21st CENTURY 21st CENTURY

1900´s:1900´s: The shape was previously The shape was previously

established because of the established because of the use of corset; tight skirts on use of corset; tight skirts on hips to bell-shaped widening hips to bell-shaped widening up to the ground.up to the ground.

The work world is beginning The work world is beginning to incorporate tailored suits to incorporate tailored suits with an influence of male cut with an influence of male cut for women.for women.

Lace and feathers were all the Lace and feathers were all the rage in dresses, highlighting rage in dresses, highlighting big hats very decorated.big hats very decorated.

1910´s:1910´s: The silhouette of women was completely smooth The silhouette of women was completely smooth

on top, so the unisex or androgynous look became on top, so the unisex or androgynous look became widespread. It completely eliminates the long skirt widespread. It completely eliminates the long skirt of the previous decade and the overskirt that was of the previous decade and the overskirt that was alone, lost his flight. They wore dresses with fringe alone, lost his flight. They wore dresses with fringe and whole small purses. It shortened the clothes and whole small purses. It shortened the clothes above the ankle, and the decade ends with the above the ankle, and the decade ends with the haircut ETON.haircut ETON.

1920´s:1920´s: Clothing was becoming much more practical. Again, Clothing was becoming much more practical. Again,

you change the shape of the waist down in you change the shape of the waist down in anatomical position, marking the waist and anatomical position, marking the waist and widening the shoulders. He popularized the suit widening the shoulders. He popularized the suit jacket to go out and party dresses were chosen jacket to go out and party dresses were chosen with great cleavage on the back and alone coat with with great cleavage on the back and alone coat with fur. In the decade shorts skirts are included. Hats fur. In the decade shorts skirts are included. Hats disappear and turn to let your hair grow.disappear and turn to let your hair grow.

1930´s:1930´s: This was a decade of war This was a decade of war

and it damaged fashion. and it damaged fashion. The look is militarized, The look is militarized, tissues became poor tissues became poor because of these girls are because of these girls are wearing the uniform of a wearing the uniform of a city, ie business suit. The city, ie business suit. The long stood below the long stood below the knees popularizing the knees popularizing the tights, although they were tights, although they were scarce. They wore scarce. They wore Toppling shoes, cork and Toppling shoes, cork and tiny hats that were very tiny hats that were very simple, or simply head simple, or simply head scarves.scarves.

1940´s:1940´s: It was the splendour, triumph of the new look of It was the splendour, triumph of the new look of

Christian Dior. Once again the shape pushed back Christian Dior. Once again the shape pushed back with a narrow waist and it took their shoulders and with a narrow waist and it took their shoulders and chest volumes. It increases the flight of their skirts chest volumes. It increases the flight of their skirts but it remained below their knees. It started the but it remained below their knees. It started the cult of beauty, women were tired of masculine cult of beauty, women were tired of masculine style and that is why we turned the corners. The style and that is why we turned the corners. The shoes are styled making them more pointed, shoes are styled making them more pointed, women wore cloth coats, purses to the elbow and women wore cloth coats, purses to the elbow and the most elegant hats. the most elegant hats.

1950´s:1950´s: This decade is out for the revolution. They used This decade is out for the revolution. They used

resulting and youthful clothes. Fashionable clothes resulting and youthful clothes. Fashionable clothes become extravagant. The prints were of butterflies become extravagant. The prints were of butterflies and flowers. The silhouettes make it smooth again and flowers. The silhouettes make it smooth again and began to quickly impose worldwideand began to quickly impose worldwide

1970´s:1970´s: There was a fury There was a fury

towards the retro. towards the retro. Flowers were the main Flowers were the main symbol in clothes and symbol in clothes and hair, and represented hair, and represented illusory ideology that illusory ideology that guided the called guided the called Revolution of Flowers. Revolution of Flowers. Stocks were the suits Stocks were the suits and dresses that showed and dresses that showed off in tight pants. Cotton off in tight pants. Cotton was replaced by lucre, was replaced by lucre, heeled boots or shoes heeled boots or shoes were worn, as the were worn, as the Swedish type. Swedish type.

1960´s:1960´s: The concept of different clothes emerged original, The concept of different clothes emerged original,

funny and bizarre. The hair is short and used funny and bizarre. The hair is short and used geometric cuts. Both men and women began to geometric cuts. Both men and women began to wear bellbottoms and imposing cotton blouseswear bellbottoms and imposing cotton blouses

1980´s:1980´s: Fashion brought very positive changes. The new Fashion brought very positive changes. The new

style was characterized by the use of visible style was characterized by the use of visible underwear, with lace straps as it has never been underwear, with lace straps as it has never been seen in the past. This was synonymous of liberation seen in the past. This was synonymous of liberation for women. Thanks to this trend, today women can for women. Thanks to this trend, today women can wear comfortable shirts without worrying about the wear comfortable shirts without worrying about the slides or the straps of bras. Women feel free but slides or the straps of bras. Women feel free but slimness is still fashionableslimness is still fashionable

1990´s:1990´s: This time was based on the This time was based on the

variety of trends, that tried to variety of trends, that tried to get them feel more comfortable get them feel more comfortable without giving much importance without giving much importance to the views of others. It is the to the views of others. It is the time of the Free Expression. time of the Free Expression. They wore the shirt of The Clash They wore the shirt of The Clash or they could let their hair loose. or they could let their hair loose. The big change was the The big change was the appearance of these piercing, appearance of these piercing, tattoos and hair dye.tattoos and hair dye.

Nowadays:Nowadays: Today fashion has Today fashion has

changed according to changed according to different urban tribes, different urban tribes, that distinguish each that distinguish each other clothing as other clothing as exclusive brands, exclusive brands, namely to keep certain namely to keep certain logo or symbol pattern logo or symbol pattern for a dress accessory or for a dress accessory or different colours. Men different colours. Men and women both take and women both take the jeans for all types the jeans for all types of work or occasion. of work or occasion. Fortunately, being Fortunately, being extremely thin is not extremely thin is not fashionable any more.fashionable any more.

ESTETIC IDEALS IN 20th CENTURYESTETIC IDEALS IN 20th CENTURY The The twentiethtwentieth century shows century shows

different tendencies which depend different tendencies which depend on the economic motivations and on the economic motivations and what they mean: they have what they mean: they have voluminous bodies because they voluminous bodies because they don’t want to make people think don’t want to make people think that they’re starving. In fact, they that they’re starving. In fact, they try to transmit their status of life try to transmit their status of life which allows them to choose their which allows them to choose their food; they worried about their food; they worried about their image and went to the gym. image and went to the gym.

In the 60’s the trends changed: thin In the 60’s the trends changed: thin and tall bodies, flat stomachs, and tall bodies, flat stomachs, voluminous hair, big eyes, small voluminous hair, big eyes, small nose, beefy lips, symmetrical and nose, beefy lips, symmetrical and solid bosoms, long and thin legs, solid bosoms, long and thin legs, marked but not excessive hips and marked but not excessive hips and tanned and young bodies were tanned and young bodies were popular.popular.

ESTETIC IDEALS IN 21st CENTURYESTETIC IDEALS IN 21st CENTURY

Today the media don’t Today the media don’t show just one model of show just one model of beauty. They can beauty. They can recover all the different recover all the different styles of the 20’s, 30’s, styles of the 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 50’s in 40’s and 50’s in publicity just for a short publicity just for a short period of time. period of time. Nowadays the tolerance Nowadays the tolerance and the polytheism in and the polytheism in beauty are all the rage.beauty are all the rage.

The evolution of body image in the 21st century is The evolution of body image in the 21st century is wandering and uncertain, the wish to stand out has wandering and uncertain, the wish to stand out has brought about the punk fashion.brought about the punk fashion.

Anti-aging products are fashionable. Today people Anti-aging products are fashionable. Today people live more than in the past. All of us want to become live more than in the past. All of us want to become old but with a good health and a good physical old but with a good health and a good physical appearance too. appearance too.