the design and technical development workshop under ahvy

THE DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP UNDER AHVY

CONTENTS

Acknowledgement

Introduction

About O/o Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)

Designer’s View

Planning for new design development

Stages of the Workshop

Methodology adopted

Venue of the workshop

Initial Sketches of the Prototype

Photographs of the final prototype

List of prototypes

Performance cum achievement report

New elements introduced

Marketing Possibilities

Conclusion

Designer’s Profile


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Lots of effort has gone into making of this project. I would like to give my sincere

thanks to all those who helped in the completion of this Design & Technical

Development Workshop on Ari and Staple Embroidery craft.

Primarily, I would like to thank related officers of the O/o The DC

Handicraft, Ministry of Textile, who in their tenure have helped me constantly. I

would also thank to SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY IC LTD. NOWPORA

for giving me this opportunity.

Last but not the least, I take privilege to thank all my artisans/craft persons

at Mazhama, who have done such a wonderful job & made my vision into reality.


INTRODUCTION

The government is making continued effort to provide equitable growth

opportunities for women, which is increasingly being reflected among others in

increased participation by women in local government and decision-making

process, promotion of income generation activities and thrift and credit self help

groups (SHG’s) for women. To keep up with the competitions and to abreast them

with the latest of designs and trends and marketing skills, the patrons organize

Design & Technical Development Workshops/Integrated Design & Technology

Development Projects under the capable professional guidance of experts from

institutions like NIFT and NID. During these design workshops, the artisans are

helped to reinvent themselves as per the current trends to make them more

commercially viable and then they are provided with the promotional platforms like

exhibition and craft bazaars etc. which are organized by the Govt. along with the

NGO’s, throughout the country besides the other commercial links.

The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop in Ari Staple

Embroidery craft, sponsored by the O/o the Development Commissioner

(Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, is one such step in this direction.

The programme was organized by Sukhnag Ari Staple Embroidery I C Ltd.,

Nowpora working for the promotion of the art & culture of the society and the

overall upliftment of the underprivileged. A detailed survey of the area was made to

access the existing designs in Ari and Sozni Embroidery craft, the available

materials, technical inputs, production process and marketability of product etc. for

the development of new designs, which can be easily marketed.


In this modern arena, life style has been changed completely and

accordingly, there has been a change in colour and design sense. It has become

artistic & attractive. This artistic change in handicraft items is seen anywhere.

Physical & mental change takes place during young age. During that period

individual selects dress and accessories according to choice of colors, patterns

etc., not according to the family traditions. From this point of view and to get a good

export order and marketable product, it was necessary to have a series of product,

which will suit to the contemporary styles of living. This necessitates designer’s

intervention for finding a new solution to the traditional craft skills in terms of

design, product modification and aesthetics for which, the programme was

proposed.

ABOUT O/o DEVELOPMENT COMMISSIONER (H)

The Handicrafts Sector is able to provide substantial direct employment to

the artisans and others engaged in the trade and employment to many input

industries in recognition of the above facts, the Government of India set-up an

autonomous All India Handicrafts Board in 1952.

The promotion of handicrafts industries is the primary responsibilities of State

Governments. However, the Office of the Development Commissioner

(Handicrafts) has been implementing various departmental schemes at the central

level to supplement state’s activities in the handicrafts sector besides the new

thrust areas.

The Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) functions under

Ministry of Textiles for promotion and exports of handicrafts. The office is headed

by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts). It advices the Government of India

on matters relating to the Development and Exports of Handicrafts and assists the


State Government in Planning and Executing Development Schemes for

handicrafts.

Different schemes of Office of the Development Commissioner

(Handicrafts) are as follows:

Babasahib Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna (AHVY).

Human Resource Development Scheme.

Marketing Support & Services.

Research & Development.

Export Promotion.

Credit Guarantee Scheme.

Bima Yojna for Handicraft artisans.

Mega clusters (Moradabad & Narasapur).

Work shed for Handicraft artisans.

Artisan Credit Cards.


DESIGNER’S VIEW

A detailed survey of the area was made to access the existing Hand

Embroidery craft, the available materials, technical inputs, production process and

marketability of product etc. for the development of new designs, which can easily,

marketed. The base line survey got done before starting the design workshop

keeping certain things in the mind such as the present condition of craft and its

practitioners, to know the basic requirement, the problem and its solutions and last

but not the least for the scope & possibilities of the crafts and its practitioners. How

one can get them in the line of current world of competition. What are their needs

and wants, required facilities, and about their habits.

I started the work by keeping basic aspects of the development like

locating the active area i.e. geographically where the craft stands, which level of

skills craftsperson have, basic difficulties lies around the area so that it could easy

to reach and rectify the problem. The result reveals heartening facts. No doubt,

they are skilled and deserve every right to get all the recognition, others enjoying. .


The crafts persons practicing the art for the household needs and for

some small business point. There products of concerned and the designs were of

limited stock, as they do not have exposure to the competition.

The ultimate story is that is that by proper guidance regarding the designs,

ability to judge the trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing

proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices to be built up among

the artisans to enable them to put an overall performance on the craft to ensure

end users satisfaction.

The crafts persons at Mazhama (J&K) practicing the craft were too

lucky compare to others, as the area of concerned was geographically gifted

place and easy access to connect internationally & domestic market itself The

crafts persons were talented and practicing it as earning from this plays a major

part for their bread & butter. The crafts persons practicing, it just for the shake of

their survival not for their growth and business. There products of concerned

and the designs were limited, as they don’t have exposure to the outer world of

competition. They are the highly skilled but raw, easily can be mould into any

shape of desire.

It can be underlined as mention below-

Practiced by females of the family

They lack innovation

Lack the Knowledge of trend due to market exposures

Limited product range and designs

They do not know the techniques to cure, processing & finishing

They don’t have the proper marketing channel & costing method

They are not exploring the craft due to lack of options. The ultimate

story is that is that by proper guidance regarding the designs, ability to judge the


trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing proper

marketing network, refinement of taste and choices could be built up among the

artisans, to enable them to put an overall performance on the crafts to ensure

end users satisfaction.

PLANNING FOR NEW DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

Presently there is not any certain process that they follow as they doing

nothing properly in planned way. They were just doing it on daily basis as

discussed earlier. There is a limited variation in design and products the just

making it as their habit. To achieve something fruitful result, planning is the must

and it should be based on certain facts-

Products - Products need to develop that they can relate their requirement,

usages, and above all the capability in their society they were lagging at.

Costing - As it’s the most important of the development and survival of any

craft, business or species on earth that better and adoptable as per the situation

can only deserve to survive in the competitive world. Increasing productivity,

product and design development, technological up gradation for capacity


building, quality control measures with well defined specifications, effective

packaging, and networking through IT.

Raw material - It should be taken care that those raw materials should be in

used which are easily available at particular place to develop the prototypes. So

that in coming future the craftsperson can easily abler to get them

Marketing - Assimilation of market intelligence, product identification as

per market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up of

business enterprises, relationship management of assisting market outlets, test

marketing through financial exhibitions/fairs, effective publicity through

appropriate media mix.

Financial- Pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit

and external through financial institutions and funding organizations).

According to above mention facts:

I selected &introduced the designs those are relevant with their identification

on world map i.e. Life style/office accessories, utility items etc.

Introduced new techniques so that raw materials can be utilized more without

wasting, which they can incorporate in their practice to save the time and

increase their quality and production without altering their craft and their basic

needs.

Keeping the traditional value in mind I selected the product range and

techniques got little altered from the traditional one as little change can be

acceptable and they get that easily but drastic change can spoil the interest.

STAGES OF THE WORKSHOP


The design workshop for 15 days duration was planned with

various factors of design development like survey and documentation, Problem

analysis, Training to artisans, Introduction of new technique and tools, development

of new prototypes and marketing linkage of the prototypes developed. It is here

now how the whole process of project covered in various stages:

1. In its first stage a market survey and survey about the cluster of

artisans at ‘Mazhama’ was covered on various parameters.

2. In the second stages the artisans were trained on various as pacts of

the craft and knowledge provided about overseas market.

Artisans busy in watching sketches and to

understand and learn about actual design.


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Further artisans were provided the sketches as per the specialization of the

artisans. The artisans were properly explained about the design concepts

given in sketches.

4. Development of prototype – Here it begun the actual progress with

development of prototypes. Initially a trial of each product was made and the

artisans were explained about the finer points and then actual prototype was

prepared.

5. Training to artisans – Artisans was trained on various other aspects of

Hand Embroidery work.

6. Hand Embroidery Market Linkage – A proper market linkage program

was undertaken during the final stages of project and even after formal

closing ceremony of the project.


Day By Day Progress of the Workshop

First Phase (2 nd to 4 th July

2012) Workshop get inaugurated,

than a brief introduction regarding

the purpose of the workshop and

whole planning regarding the work

discussed. After inaugural speech

to understand the skills level of craft

women , paper & fabric swatches

distributed to the women to know

their knowledge and skill about the

craft.

Then design of six set of the prototypes were taught & imprisoned on respective

base material on which prototypes suppose to get developed with all the details

.Placement of the designs on base material got done and were distributed among

them.. Work started on respective prototypes at the same time.

Second Phase (5 th to 8 th July. 2012) One set of the few prototypes i.e. ladies

suits, stole, shawl etc. got completed. At the end of this phase other set of designs

of prototypes were got traced onto the respective base material.

Third Phase (9 th to 14 th July 2012)


In this phase

some small

prototypes were got

completed. Rest of

designs some heavy

work prototypes were

targeted. At the end of

this phase due to fine

and heavy work as

well as short time

period, fifteen set of

sample got finished.

Fourth Phase (15 th to 16 th July 2012 ) All the prototypes developed were finished

that means thread cutting, hemming washing & stitching get done. At concluding

day CTO A.M Malik and TAC A.Chasti from Office of the Marketing & Service

Extn. Center Srinagar visit the workshop and appreciate designer and artisans

efforts.


Product Development:

The artisans were provided the sketches on paper with proper details of work technique and colour scheme etc. The artisans were also explained about the concept of each prototype to be developed. The sketches were divided among the artisans while understanding the creativity level of each artisan.

Basic raw material i.e. the Different types of yarns was arranged for the workshop in different colour combination.

Fabric: lk. Cotton, wool stole and shawl, Crepe sari as base material.

Threads:

Woolen Embroidery: With 1-ply or 2-ply woolen yarn, this type of embroidery is worked on thick cotton “dosooti” fabric. Other background fabrics embroidered this way include organza, velvet, jute and linen. It is always done using a large crochet.

Cotton Embroidery: Staple cotton embroidery work is found on suede bags and purses, woolen shawls, jackets, silk sarees, cotton, silk and woolen salwar kameez, kurtis and other apparel. It is done using a medium crochet or small crochet. A finer staple cotton thread is used in needlepoint embroidery.Silver and gold embroidery: Locally called “tilla”, this type of embroidery work is found on ladies cloaks (“pheron”), shawls and salwar kameez. It is done in needlepoint.


Tools

In Kashmir colorful embroidery work done on all kinds of apparel and fabrics - Shawls, Jackets, Saris, etc. There are many different types of embroideries employed by Kashmiri artisans. These are based on:

(i) Type of the embroidery tool:

1. Crochet embroidery (locally “Aari”): This is futher of 3 types

–a) Small crochet: Fine cotton thread is used for embroidery work with this type of crochet. Mostly used for embroidery work on suede leather items like bags, purses and jackets.

b) Medium crochet: This type of crochet uses the same cotton thread as above. It is used for embroidery on woolen and silk jackets, shawls, sarees, salwar kameez and other apparel.

c) Large crochet: Also called the “Crewel” crochet, this type of crochet uses woolen or art-silk thread for embroidery. It is used for crewel embroidery work on cotton, organza, velvet, linen and jute.

2. Needlepoint embroidery (locally “Sozni”): Done using a fine needle, “sozni” is worked on Pashmina shawls, woolen shawls, jackets, salwar kameez and sarees. Work done on pashminas is comparatively much finer (close stitches) than other fabrics (cotton, silk and wool).

METHODOLOGY ADOPTED TO DEVELOP PROTOTYPES

A market survey is undertaken to look into whether the products made by them have proper market or not and how it can be improved. How it can be made into international market with the improvement of


certain things. Ultimately the focus should be on to design some products of international standard in terms of finish, pricing etc. The new designed products should find buyers for which it has been planned. This will improve the quality of life for the artisans.

As per the survey, report reveals that what the major factors were playing around the area it got needed different strategy to follow. First of all they were need to convince about the market and its changing nature as per the time, required adaptation on that basis methodology adopted were as folows-

Identifying there area of interest and specialization i.e. technique wise. Different sources introduced to get the new design and ideas. Let them taught the planning process and its importance. Introduce them to concept development process. Introduced them with modern tools and designs and different product options. Different techniques to utilize the raw material to maximum extents. Different finishing and packaging techniques. Finally, the method to take care of the products.

VENUE OF THE WORKSHOP

2nd of July 2012 to 16th of July 2012 Total 15 (fifteen) days at

Mazhama

The clusters in the area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have been producing export quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this vocation. Technical guidance were to been offered. The craftsmen are suffering from difficulties of raw materials and being the victims of middleman ship. The area has less population and new generation is getting away from the craft because of proper guidance about the craft and its growing future.


Sl No : 01

Product Name: SALWAR SUITProduct Code:

ARI/SUKHNAG/01-2012

Sl No : 02Product Name: SALWAR SUIT

Product Code:ARI/SUKHNAG/02-2012


Sl No : 03Product Name: SALWAR SUITProduct Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/03-2012



Sl No : 07Product Name: SALWAR SUITProduct Code: SOZNI/SUKHNAG/07-2012

Sl No : 08Product Name: JACKETProduct Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/08-2012


Sl No : 11Product Name: STOLEProduct Code: SOZNI/SUKHNAG/11-2012

Sl No : 12Product Name: STOLEProduct Code: SOZNI/SUKHNAG/12-2012


Sl No : 13Product Name: CUSHION COVERProduct Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/13-2012

Sl No : 14Product Name: CUSHION COVERProduct Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/14-2012

Sl No : 15


Product Name: CUSHION COVERProduct Code: ARI/SUKHNAG/15-2012

List of Prototype Developed at Design and Technical Development Workshop in Ari Staple Embroidery Craft At Mazhama Dist. Baramula (J&K) From Date 2th to 16rd July 2012

Organized by Sukhnag Ari Staple Embroidery I C Ltd Nowpora, Dist. Baramula (J&K)

Sl Product Name Product Code Size or Price Product


no.

Material Consumed

Developed

01 Salwar Suit Ari /Sukhnag/ 01-2012 4.5mtrs Fabric

1350/- 02


1250/- 02


1350/- 02


1350/- 02


1150/- 02


1350/- 02

07 Salwar Suit Sozni /Sukhnag/ 07-2012 4.5mtrs Fabric

1500/- 02

08 Jacket Ari /Sukhnag/ 08-2012 22” x 18” 900/- 02


1300/- 02


1350/- 02

11 Stole Sozni/Sukhnag/ 11-2012 88” x 26”

1150/- 02

12 Stole Sozni /Sukhnag/ 12-2012 88” x 24”

1150/- 02

13 Cushion Cover Ari /Sukhnag/ 13-2012 18” x 18” 450/- 02




ACHIEVEMENT CUM PERFORMANCE REPORT

On commencement of the workshop, the trainees were introduced with-

Existence of the craft and its importance towards its heritage culture. Importance of colors in craft. Importance of the planning before starting the work. Importance of the design and their use. To embellish 1them with the modern look. Methods of transferring a design. Presentation and care of the craft. Tools and material used. Craft and its possibilities. How to adopt as per the market requirements. To utilize raw material to maximum extent by minimizing the wastage.

Under the guidance on day-to-day basic, the trainees learnt designing,

various techniques to translate the design as per desire and finishing part of

prototypes development. As the workshop processed, the trainees were also given

practical training to implementation of various designs & techniques along with the

knowledge about pre and post production planning and strategy.

NEW ELEMENTS INTRODUCED

The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop with the craft persons/artisans of ‘SUKHNAG’ was held at Mazhama. The design workshop came to be very successful. All the artisans learned a lot during the workshop. The designer introduced them with various techniques and tools for hand embroidery craft.

The new elements which the designer introduced during the 15 days Design & Technical Development Workshop are as follows:


Importance of different tools that can be used by the artisans during the process of making hand embroidery craft Different techniques of hand embroidery craft were introduced. Artisans use to make hand embroidery craft with their old technique. Designer helped them to do weave and design with some new techniques for easy and faster work. Importance of the different designs and their practical use in day-to-day life.

Introduction with different types of embellishment materials used in hand embroidery craft

Different methods were introduced for transferring a design from graph on to the hand embroidery craft

Introduction to the marketing possibilities of the products made by the artisans. Knowledge about the fashion forecast which is necessary for the export market. To utilize raw material to maximum extent by minimizing the wastage.

Introduction about the colour forecast according to the market requirement, especially for the export market

SUGGESTIONS

As a designer, I want to convey the message that to promoting Indian handicrafts by developing handicrafts artisan cluster and cells into professionally managed and self-reliant community enterprises on the principles of affective member participation and mutual co-operation. The thrust of the scheme is on a projected need based integrated approach for craft persons leading their empowerment.

The main objective should be as-

Make empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to domestic & overseas markets. Upgrade artisan’s skill through appropriate design and technology intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value-added items. Provided adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity and to enable artisan’s access to a larger market segment, both domestic and international.


Ensure effective collective participation of all members involved in production and marketing process for optimal growth in human resource, production, and income. Create centers of excellence (based on the philosophy of collective enterprises) with well integrated linkagesAt last, I want to wish the artisans very all the best of luck for their future.

CONCLUSION

The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop with the artisans

of SUKHNAG ARI STAPLE EMBROIDERY I C LTD. NOWPORA has been an

insightful process.

The work that has emerged, through the collective effort of the crafts women,

NGO team and the Designer, reveals the great potentials that the traditional hand

embroidery craft practices by the artisans. The products created by the crafts

person, supposedly low skilled, are neat and well executed and have made us

rethink about their potential. It is heartening to see that the entire process, from the

conception of the designs, converting those designs into hand embroidery craft

products and finishing the product, has been highly participatory one, and

everybody enjoyed every moments of it.


Résumé

Tripti singh

41, surbhivihar

Roopsagr road

Udaipur (Raj)

Phone : 9950848233

Mail at [email protected]

Empanelled Designer with The O/o Development Commissioner (Handicraft), Ministry of Textile, New Delhi

Empanelled with Rajsthan Dastkar Protshan Sansthan, Jaipur

Qualification

Diploma in Textile Design 2000-03

From Govt. Women’s Polytechnic College, Udaipur

Graduation

B.Com

From Mohanlal Sukhadia University, Udaipur

Currently engaged in

Visiting Faculty for Design courses for diploma and undergraduate level.

Conducting training programmes for rural artisans.

Developing design for various Ngo’s in craft sector

Work experience:

Worked as a guest faculty at Govt. Women’s Polytechnic College udaipur (Raj)

Worked as a fashion and cultural reporter with Dainik Bhaskar Uaipur

Design Development in various craft with O/o The Development Commissioner (Handicraft)


Currently engaged in

Visiting Faculty for Design courses for diploma and undergraduate level.

Conducting training programmes for rural artisans.

Developing design for various Ngo’s in craft sector

Work experience:

Worked as a guest faculty at Govt. Women’s Polytechnic College udaipur (Raj)

Worked as a fashion and cultural reporter with Dainik Bhaskar Uaipur

Design Development in various craft with O/o The Development Commissioner (Handicraft)

Projects

Designed a range of products with patch and appliqué craft

Developed products range of home furnishing and apparels in Phulkari craft

Developed different products with various Ngo’s in Hand Embroidery

A range of home furnishings and bags was designed, prototypes were printed and dyed with natural dyes.

Designed a coordinated collection of home furnishings, office table accessories using different printing techniques.dyes and material were explored for achieving different looks.

Designed a wall of restaurant with papier-mâché and mirror work

Discotheque and a furniture designed with paper collage.

Skills Acquired

A thorough understanding of the hand block printing trough hands on experience in field.

Also having experience of screen printing.

Fabric construction techniques.

Basic knowledge of embroidery stitches.

Basic knowledge of Coral Draw and Photoshop.

the design and technical development workshop under ahvy

Documents

new design development

development of new designs

design sense

design workshops

workshop methodology

technical inputs

ari staple embroidery

workshop initial sketches