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    Prsrt Std

    U.S. Postage

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    Santa Ana, CA

    Permit No. 450Costume Designers GuildLocal 892I.A.T.S.E.11969 Ventura Blvd., First FloorStudio City, CA 91604

    The Official Magazine of the Costume Designers Guild

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    Fall 2008 The Costum

    vo

    COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD

    11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor

    Studio City, CA 91604

    phone: 818.752.2400 fax: 818.752.2402

    costumedesignersguild.com

    COVER

    Tootsie, 1982designed by Ruth Morley

    Photo courtesyof the Academy of Motion Picture

    Arts and Sciences

    Editors Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    Union Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Presidents Letter

    From the Desk of the Executive Director

    Assistant Executive Directors Report

    Labor Report

    The Costume Department. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Meet the Assistants

    History of Dress

    My Favorite Things

    In Focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .The Process: Sketch to ScreenA Look Back at The Hunger

    Boldface Names

    Whats On/Whats In. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    Scrapbook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    DEPARTMENTS

    28

    For screening information:DisneyStudiosAwards.com DisneyEnterprises,Inc.

    FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION

    BEST COSTUME DESIGN

    CAROLINE B. MARX

    FEATURES

    Costume Council, Costume Society . . . . . . .Scholarly organizations

    Fan Frenzy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A passion that begins with costume

    16

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    4 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    hile consumed with the economy and the elections in

    a country moving from turmoil to hope, a theme for

    this issue just never surfaced.Which is why I thought

    wed put a memorable candidate on the cover who

    would at the very least,make us smile.The transformation of Dustin

    Hoffman was made largely in part by Ruth Morleys designs for

    Dorothy Michaels in Tootsie.Morleys passing in 1991 left a legacy of

    some 50-plus films.Morley was nominated for an Oscar(The Miracle

    Worker, 1962) and Emmy (Death of a Salesman, 1985) and a BAFTA Award for

    Tootsie,1982. She designed the contemporary films:The Hustler(1961),The Miracle

    Worker, 1962 & 1979, Taxi Driver (1976),Annie Hall(1977), Kramer vs.Kramer

    (1979),One Fromthe Heart(1982),Tootsie (1982),Ghost(1990),The Prince of Tides

    (1991). If you are interested in further

    exploring Morleys memorable career, her

    estate donated a collection of her scripts,

    correspondence and drawings to the

    Academy of Motion Pictures Margaret

    Herrick Library;all available for reference.

    The launch ofMeet the Assistants is

    finally here. New regular contributor

    JR Hawbaker,an Assistant Designer herself,

    has enthusiastically taken on the task of

    introducing you to the right handof the Costume Designer. I hope you appreciate

    her insights and her style as much as we do.

    Whats On/Whats Outwill now be calledWhats On/Whats In. Why didntwe think of it before? A much more positive headline.

    You may have noticed that Boldface Names has grown into a bear of a column.

    We love collecting your submissions and researching your Boldface news as much as

    you like reading it.News you submit and news we research.It takes four people to

    compile and edit Boldface Names.Help us make it easier by submitting all new work,

    press and new businesses in short concise entries.While we appreciate every detail

    of your project,it makes it harder for us to decide what to print if your entry is more

    suited for a full-length feature than a Boldface entry. Also,you know if youve already

    made it to press. If its been in print, please don t resubmi t. If its a new project,

    new busi ness or a new Des igner, ACD or Illustrator on an existing show,we will

    gladly include it.Please include high-resolution photos whenever possible.Note: we

    cannot include non-union work.

    Deena Appel

    [email protected]

    EDITORS NOTE

    W

    The more one

    pleases everybody,the less one pleases

    profoundly. STENDHAL

    EDITOR/PHOTO EDITORDeena Appel

    ASSOCIATE EDITORAudrey Fisher

    MANAGING EDITORCheryl Downey

    PRESIDENTMary Rose

    [email protected]

    VICE PRESIDENT

    Hope [email protected]

    SECRETARYAnn Somers Major

    [email protected]

    TREASURERMarilyn Matthews

    [email protected]

    EXECUTIVE BOARDSharon Day

    [email protected] Perez

    [email protected] Appel

    [email protected] Chally

    [email protected] De Armond (Asst. Costume Designers)

    [email protected] Sanchez (Illustrators)

    [email protected] Gill (Commercial Costume Designers)

    [email protected]

    BOARD ALTERNATESValerie Laven-Cooper

    [email protected] Nininger

    [email protected] Broughton Ramsey

    [email protected] Butler

    [email protected]

    BOARD OF TRUSTEESPeter Flaherty, Chair

    [email protected] Saint Anne

    [email protected]

    LABOR DELEGATEBetty Madden

    [email protected]

    EXECUTIVE DIRECTORCheryl Downey

    [email protected]

    ASSISTANT EXECUTIVE DIRECTORRachael M. Stanley

    [email protected]

    ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTSuzanne Huntington

    [email protected]

    RECEPTIONIST/SECRETARYCheryl Marshall

    [email protected]

    GENERAL CDG [email protected]

    PUBLISHERIngleDodd Publishing

    ADVERTISING DIRECTORDan Dodd 310.207.4410 x236

    [email protected]

    Reality TV Feature

    The original costume for Princess Leia inReturn of the Jediwas designed by Aggie Rodgers.

    For up-to-the-minute screening information

    and more on this extraordinary film go to:

    www.FilmInFocus.com/awards08

    ARTWORK 2008 FOCUS FEATURES, LLC.ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

    BEST COSTUMEDESIGN

    Danny Glicker

    CORRECTION

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    Fall 2008 The Costum

    Contributors

    AUDREYFISHER

    (Associate Editor & A Look Back)

    joined the Guild in 2000 and is

    currently the Costume Designer

    for the new HBO original series,

    True Blood.Fisher was in her sec-

    ond term representing Assistant

    Costume Designers on the

    Executive Board when she

    reclassified to Designer.

    Associate editing the CDG

    magazine allows me to indulge

    one of my first loves and keeps

    up my writing chops.I appreci-

    ate the creative outlet and the

    opportunity to learn more about

    our colleagues and their designs.

    JRHAWBAKER

    (Meet the Assistants and

    Locations) joined the Guild in

    2006 and currently works as an

    Assistant Costume Designer for

    film and television. Originally

    from Chicago and the Goodman

    School of Drama, she calls Los

    Angeles and the CDG homenow. Excited to be writing

    again, Hawbaker is thrilled to

    contribute to the magazine.

    Our Guild members are all

    storytellers, on screen and on

    the page, and I am only too

    happy to contribute to a maga-

    zine that narrates their stories.

    PHILLIP BOUTTE JR.

    (Fan Frenzy) has been a

    member of the Costume

    Designers Guild since January

    of 2007. Since joining, Phillip

    has produced artwork for

    films such as The Mummy:

    Tomb of the Dragon Emperor,

    Star Trek, Wolverine,Terminator Salvation, Bedtime

    Stories, and the upcoming

    Madonna tour. He loves his

    job and would like to thank

    Robin Richesson for suggest-

    ing the Guild to him. Phillip

    currently lives in North

    Hollywood,Calif.

    ROBIN RICHESSON

    (History of Dress, Illustrator)

    joined the Guild in 1992 and

    works currently as a costume

    illustrator,a storyboard artist,and

    an educator.I trained for work

    as an illustrator for print (pub-

    lishing) so when the CDG began

    the magazine, I was pleased to

    be asked to illustrate for it.I love

    working in film, but I have to

    admit, I missed seeing my work

    in print! The History of Dress col-

    umn is a great way for me to

    learn more about clothing and

    participate in this publication.

    MARCYFROEHLICH

    (Costume Society & Costume

    Council) joined the Guild in

    1992 fresh in from New York

    and Broadway.She has long had

    an interest in historical costume

    and research,and satisfies much

    of this desire working in the-

    ater. However, for variety, hernext project is the Miss America

    Pageant!

    SUZANNE HUNTIN

    (Boldface Names) cam

    Guild in 2005

    administrative assist

    two years with th

    Guild as their proj

    coordinator. Educa

    working in fine arts

    tainment keeps Hun

    the creative environ

    enjoys. She stays b

    member inquiries,

    special projects, adm

    the CDG website,am

    duties. Its a pleasure

    touch with the mem

    make a contributio

    magazine.

    KARYN WAGNER

    (History of Dress, Copy) A

    Costume Designer for film and

    television, Wagner ran for the

    CDG Board four years ago. I

    wanted to give back a little of

    what the Guild has given me. I

    have found the experience to be

    rewarding and inspiring. I

    trained as a historian, and I love

    to watch the evolution of culture

    and clothing, so I volunteered to

    write the History of Dress col-

    umn. I always learn something

    new and have so much fun writ-

    ing it.

    Phillip Boutt

    Sharen Dav

    Marcy Froehl

    JR Hawbak

    Suzanne Huntin

    Robin Riches

    Felipe Sanch

    Karyn Wagn

    The Kobal Colle

    THANKYOU

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    his October marks the first year anniversary of the new

    CDG Executive Board, Officers and my Presidency.I was

    going to devote my letter to our accomplishments, as there

    is much to report in my view.But as the saying goes best-

    laid plans often go astray!The consequences of a nation

    in chaos and confusion!By the time the fall issue is in your mailbox, our fate and that of

    the country will have been decided with the choice of Barack

    Obama for President.Even with this historic vote for change,there is

    no doubt that we are headed for hard times,the likes of which our generation has never

    experienced. It began this October with the crash of the market, and its uncertain

    when it will improve.

    I grew up in Japan. In 1953, I came to the U.S.,and raised two young children dur-

    ing the Vietnam War with a mothers fear for their future; I especially worried about my

    son, who in a few short years would become eligible for the draft.As recently as 2004,

    my daughter,a mother of two young children herself, was sent to Iraq for 18 months to

    fight this meaningless war.By then,I thought Id seen enough global happenings affect

    so many peoples lives, what more could possibly surprise me? What happened in

    October,t he collapse of the economy worldwide proved that I was wrong! I could

    never have anticipated this. We all have to tighten our belts!is the mantra that we

    will be hearing from everywhere that we must understand and follow.

    If this message sounds like a gloomy and depressing forecast, thats not my inten-

    tion. Its just a warning for all that we do have to be aware of the situation. We have to

    consider what we value and recognize and prioritize what is most important to each ofus.Like many,the CDGs investment values have declined.Still,the CDGs finances are

    intact and quite safe under our watch. Less income from investments maybe, and yet

    new memberships are up.So there is a silver lining.Who can figure?

    Our first Budget Committee meeting was the end of October, and I give you my

    assurance that our Education Committees budget was our highest priority. As you

    know,it is my passion and based on this years success, we may even increase the edu-

    cation budget by making cuts in less crucial areas.Dont call us Scrooges just yet.Cheryl

    Downey and I have already begun to organize our Second Annual Holiday Party

    (December 6) that was such a success last year. This event benefits all members so

    weve made sure to allocate enough to celebrate a new year of HOPE with a great hol-

    iday party to let a little light into our spirits!

    This year,Thanksgiving will have a special meaning for all of us indeed. Have a

    happy and wonderful day of celebration with your families and friends!

    Mary Rose

    [email protected]

    TDear Members,

    PRESIDENTS

    LETTER

    UNION LABEL

    SATURDAY December 6 CDG Holiday Party 5-7 PMMONDAY December 8 Eboard Meeting 7 PMHoliday Hours: Dec. 2426, closed

    Dec. 31January 2, 2009 closedMONDAY January 12, 2009 Eboard Meeting 7 PMMONDAY February 2 Eboard Meeting 7 PMTUESDAY February 17 CDG Awards GalaMONDAY February 23 General Membership Meeting 7 PM

    IMPORTANT DATES

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    10 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    Dear CDG Brothers and Sisters, What Does anAssistant Designer Do?

    e are

    t h r i l l e d

    that our

    Costume

    Designers are seeing the

    benefit of hiring an

    Assistant Designer.TV designers are discovering

    what film designers have known for years; agood Assistant Designer is worth his or her

    weight in gold.Television shows are bigger and

    more demanding than ever and an ACD has

    become a necessity on most shows.

    An Assistant Designer can do anything a

    Designer does under the direction of the

    Designer:

    ACDs can represent the artistic ideals of the

    Costume Designer with all departments

    when the designer is not available

    Research for contemporary and period proj-

    ects, uniforms,and regional costumes

    Assist with script analysis and setting up cos-

    tume charts or boards

    Be an extra set of eyes and ears in fittings and

    production meetings

    Communicate with set dressing, camera,

    stunts, props, hair, make-up, and special

    effects, to let the designer know any special

    requirements and visa versa

    Swatch fabrics and communicate the applica-

    tion of fabrics

    Fit extras or day players when the CD is occu-

    pied elsewhere

    Communicate with principal and extras cast-

    ing and make the calls for sizes

    Be the Designers liaison with the workroom

    Shop for accessories or entire looks under

    the Designers direction

    Contact vendors for product placement

    Every situation and job is unique,but an Assistant

    Costume Designer is a valuable asset to any pro-

    duction. The Costume Designers Guild is proud

    to have 133 talented Assistant Designers to help

    you on your next project.Call the offi ce for a listor go to the website members area to check out

    the available members.The Assistant Designers

    are also featured in a new regular column in the

    magazine starting with this issue.

    In Solidarity,Rachael [email protected]

    W

    Assistant ExecutiveDirectors Report

    est you worry about your MPI pension,let me assure

    you the Plans prudent investment guidelines have

    resulted in losses far smaller than those in other

    defined benefit plans across the country.In fact, the

    MPI Pension Plan is in the top 1% of jointly (labor and manage-

    ment) bargained and managed defined benefit plans. This

    means our MPI Plan solidly exceeds minimum funding guide-

    lines and,for example, 13th- and 14th-month checks are again

    being issued to all retirees for 2008. Do you realize how fortunate we are to havesuch security in these daunting economic times?

    Nevertheless,as of October 10, 2008, the Pension Plans portfolio was down

    19% and the Individual Account Plan was down 15%.Losses and gains are actuari-

    ally spread over several years,which will help to even out this bad news. But the

    Pension Protection Act requires the monies coming into the Plans go first to fund

    the Pension Plan and secondly to fund the Health Plan.To be realistic, this may

    mean that modifications in our sterling Health Plan will be f iscally required.

    This brings us once again to the importance of phoning in every newly land-

    ed non-union job you take.It is essential that you fax us your start paper work,so

    the IA can try to organize the show. Once turnedto a union shoot, benefits get

    paid into the Plans.

    If you land a job out of town on a union show in another IA Locals jurisdic-

    tion, call our office for its number and Business Rep.When you arrive on location,

    call and introduce yourself to that Business Rep.Technically,the IA Constitution

    requires you receive permission to work in another IA Locals jurisdiction.

    Permission is routinely given and this professional protocol will help you in more

    ways than just local staffing. Make sure that if hired under the Basic Agreement here

    in Los Angeles,your benefits are paid to MPI.Each of you and the Guild office play a vital role in making sure the Plans

    receive all the monies due

    them for our common good.

    Lets count our MPI blessings!

    Speaking of gratitude, a

    sincere thank-you to Karyn

    Wagner and Dana Onel who

    resigned from the Eboard for

    work reasons,and to Marilyn

    Matthews,our new Treasurer,

    and Felipe Sanchez,the new

    Illustrator Board member,who

    are filling their well-worn vol-

    unteer shoes. Come meet

    them at the 2nd CDG Holiday

    Party December 6!

    With Gratitude,

    Cheryl

    cdowney@costume

    designersguild.com

    From the Desk of theExecutive Director

    UNION LABEL

    L

    CDG 2008 Holiday Card

    Illustration by Mirena Rada

  • 8/2/2019 The Costume Designer Fall 08

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    ith new leadership in

    Washington, we may be

    able to fix some of the

    laws that have been hurt-

    ing us for years, and enact new legisla-

    tion that will give workers a fair shot at

    improving their lives,said Thomas Short.

    President Elect Barack Obamas

    theme,Vote for Change,brough t out the volunteer spirit in CDG members to a degree unseen in past

    elections. Members clearly wanted to make a difference in this

    presidential election by phone banking on Thursday evenings at

    I.A.T.S.E. Local 80 and elsewhere. Calls went out to Colorado

    union members who were appreciative of hearing from fellow

    brothers and sisters in the labor movement;especially informing

    them about three anti-worker amendments on the Colorado bal-

    lot. We then turned our attention to another swing state,Nevada,

    whose working families are also struggling in this time of eco-

    nomic turmoil and uncertainty.

    Thank you to Sharon Day for leading the charge as the

    CDG Obama Coordinator, and rousing the membership to

    action.Sharon attended all six phone-bank evenings at Local 80

    and was joined by Betty Madden, Diah Wymont, Beth Pasternak,

    Sandy Ampon,Jacqueline St.Anne,Eric Berg,Terry Gordon,April

    Ferry, Paula Kaatz,Valerie Laven-Cooper, Melissa Meister,Austin

    Myers, Libby Palmer,Laurel Taylor, Louise de Teliga, Dana Woods,

    Cheryl Downey, Rachael Stanley, and Liuba Randolph for phon-ing. Hope Hanafin traveled on her own to help knock on doors

    in Colorado and many more members participated in their own

    ways wherever they were located.

    Thank you all for voting and acting for change. Now lets

    work to bring about that change.

    Labor Delegate,

    Betty Madden

    [email protected]

    UNION LABEL

    W

    Labor Report

    NEW MEMBERS

    Front row left to right: Gloria Shih, Candice Cordella,

    Glenda Maddox, Lucas CulshawBack row left to right:Gersha Phillips, Sarah Burton,

    Elizabeth Jett, Lindsay McKay, Shoshana Rubin,

    Karen Baird, Brandy Lusvardi

    B E S T C OS T U ME D E S I GNL I N D Y H E M M I N G

    F O R Y O U R C O N S I D E R A T I O N

    All ofThe Dark Knightsproduction values are

    first-rate.Kenneth Turan, LOSANGELES TIMES

    All ofThe Dark Knightsproduction values are

    first-rate.Kenneth Turan, LOSANGELES TIMES

    Intelligent and masterfully crafted.It is impeccably executed.

    Claudia Puig, USATODAY

    Intelligent and masterfully crafted.It is impeccably executed.

    Claudia Puig, USATODAY

    The entire production hassuperior technical quality.

    Roger Ebert, CHICAGO SUN-TIMES

    The entire production hassuperior technical quality.

    Roger Ebert, CHICAGO SUN-TIMES

    The haunting and visionaryDark Knightsoars on the

    wings of untamed imagination.Peter Travers, ROLLING STONE

    The haunting and visionaryDark Knightsoars on the

    wings of untamed imagination.Peter Travers, ROLLING STONE

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    I have long enjoyed membership in the Costume Society of America,so Im

    surprised when other Costume Designers havent heard of it. Founded in

    1973, it is primarily concerned with the study of dress.Yes,you could call

    it scholarly,as there are yearly symposiums where papers are presented,

    and many members are from universities or museums, but there are also

    workshops on a variety of subjects which I have found fascinating as a

    designer: a presentation on the costume and research archives of the LA

    County Museum,a tour through a craftsman home where there was a boun-ty of beautiful arts and crafts clothing and embroideries,and a fascinating

    lecture where I learned of the scarcity of a particular red dye in the 17th

    century! And theres always the opportunity for tea or lunch with others

    who just love clothing,very civilized. Yearly dues are $75, which entitles

    you to membership in the international and regional chapter,newsletters,

    and a subscription to the annual publicationDress.

    The Costume Society of America National Office Telephone:

    800-CSA-9447 or 908-359-1471

    [email protected]

    14 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    There is another organization in town that you should know about. The

    Costume Council of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

    The group supports the Costume & Textile Department through fundrais-

    ers for acquisitions.Celebrating its 55th season, the Costume Council is

    now the largest of the 10 Art Councils of LACMA.They also have scholarly

    events, often associated with current exhibitions, which are sometimes

    open to the public.As a member, you have easy access to the Costume

    Research Center.The yearly dues have recently been raised to $400 (and

    there are two tiers above that). Membership is by invitation only.Mark your

    calendars:the next event on November 17 at the Bing Theater focuses on

    burlesque and its influence on fashion,and is open to the public. Dita Von

    Teese will display her costumes and Ava Garter will perform.You cant get

    any better than that for a scholarly event!

    For information on this event, contact

    Brigette 323-857-6013 [email protected]

    General information: [email protected]

    Marcy Froehlich

    [email protected]

    The CostumeCouncil

    TheCostume SocietyofAmerica

    Invitation artwork taken from Liz Goldwyns book,

    Pretty Things.

    Dress, the annual scholarly magazine of the Costume Society

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    Firstly, the duo known as the Hindi Sisters. Hillary and

    Hannah Hindi are quite a pair. After entering a contest

    sponsored by AOL that encouraged teens to send in ideas

    for a Web-based show, they placed third out of almost

    100,000 entries. Though disappointed that they didnt win,

    they bought their own camera and continued to shoot

    webisodes for their newly acquired fan base.

    Their passion became known as The Hillywood Show.

    Imagine Doc fromBack to the Futurerunning into Cap-

    tain Jack Sparrow from Pirates of the Caribbean? Whatwould happen if The Terminator was sent back in time to

    kill Jack Sparrow? The Hillywood Show centers around the

    two sisters as they do impersonations of various characters,

    from a mix of films,interacting together in quirky situations.

    Their attention to detail is what impressed me the most.

    There is an obvious love for the characters they portray,and

    their passion for re-creating the costumes is evidenced by

    their precision. Hillary and Hannah are wildly influenced

    by all things Tim Burtonas well as the chameleon-like na-

    ture that Johnny Depp brings to his characters.When asked

    about Costume Designer Colleen Atwood, the two could

    not have had more admiration for her work in their voices.

    They love her use of desaturated color, the materials and of

    course,Colleens attention to detail.Most of all,they are pas-

    sionate about re-creating them to the best of their ability.

    Thanks to The Hilly-

    wood Show,you really get

    the sense that you are

    watching your most

    beloved characters inter-

    act in ways that you

    could never imagine; and

    central to pulling that off

    are the costumes.

    Explore and enjoy the

    Hindi Sisters artistry at

    thehillywoodshow.com.

    Youre in for an

    imaginative wild ride.

    The second unex-

    pected surprise came in

    the form of the unassum-

    ing Michael Solof.Michael, while clutching

    an artists portfolio,

    waited patiently during

    the meet-and-greet ses-

    sion after the Comic-Con

    panels. He informed me

    Fall 2008 The Costume16 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    FanFrenzy

    We have so little understand-ing of how our costumestouch people. Beyond theexperience in a darkened liv-ing room or Cineplex, ourcostumes can also inspire.There are two stories thatcame out of my experience at

    Comic-Con this year, andthough very different, theyare somehow born through apassion for Costume Design...

    Sween

    eyTodd

    StarWars

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    Fall 2008 The Costume18 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    that the portfolio was not his but that of his late father,

    Charles Solof.

    Charles Solof was a furniture manufacturers rep in the

    1960s. He traveled around selling furniture for various com-

    panies to support his family, like his father did before him. But

    there was another side to his father that Michael always found

    intriguing. Michael remembers finding his fathers secret

    sketches on his furniture orders, the sand castles he sculpted

    at the beach, and his beautiful landscape paintings. Shortly

    before his father passed away, Michael was digging through

    one of his fathers closets when he happened upon a portfo-

    lio. When he opened it, he was stunned by what he found. In

    it, were about 175 costume illustrations he had done when he

    was only 19. Charles explained to his son that he had dreamsof going to New York after high school to become a d esigner

    and that someday, a famous starlet would wear one of his de-

    signs. This dream was never realized because his parents felt

    that costume design was not something a young man should

    do. This, coupled with a young boys doubts about making it

    in The Big Appleled him to go into the family business.

    As I looked at one beautiful sketch after another, I was

    blown away by the innate talent that this man possessed.There

    were socialites and ballerinas, brides and ballroom

    dancers, moms and sweet 16ers. Charles Solof was a natural-

    born Costume Designer. His pas-

    sion was sealed in a box in the

    closet for more than 40 years.

    Michael Solof is now determined

    to find opportunities to share

    these gems with the world.So, what drives the Hindi

    Sisters to pursue their dream of

    one day having a nationwide

    show to share their unique gifts?

    What drove Michael to travel all

    the way to San Diego from Balti-

    more, Maryland, in hopes that

    someone would find value in his

    fathers hidden talents? Passion

    is the wellspring that creative in-

    dividuals tap to nourish their

    very existence. And this passion

    seems to be eternally linked to a

    love of Costume Design.

    Phillip Boutte Jr.

    [email protected]

    EdwardScissorhands

    FearandLoathinginLasVegas

    HindiSisters

    CharlesSolof

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    MEET THE ASSISTANTS

    Before following a boyfriend in a

    band to Los Angeles, Holly Davis

    worked in New York editorial for

    Glamourmagazine and public rela-

    tions for Ralph Lauren. Davis also

    holds a BA in fashion design from

    the University of Missouri. Once in

    Los Angeles, she began working on

    commercials, videos, and MOWs.

    Today, this ACD guru has a

    large body of film work, having

    assisted Costume Designers

    Judianna Makovsky, Kym Barrett,

    Deborah Scott, Marlene Stewart

    and Jacqueline West. Her experi-

    ences have taught her the merit of

    Zen on the job. Stay happy, be

    kind to your co-workers, and if the

    world is exploding around you, it

    becomes super important to stay

    calm and get the job done, Davis

    explains. She strives to relieve the

    pressure of the designers demand-

    ing and ever-growing position.

    Constant script changes, late cast-

    ing, and increased expectations of

    the designers time make the ACD

    crucial; another set of eyes work-

    ing for the designers vision.

    [email protected]

    KRISTINE

    HAAG

    ALLISONL

    EACH

    HOLLY

    DAVIS

    Allison holds an MA in fashion and

    textile design from the University

    of Southampton Netherlands

    Satellite and has studied collection

    development at the Institut

    Francais de la Mode, Paris. Shes as

    versatile as the continents she has

    studied on.

    Her California career began in

    the theater, but she has also worked

    in film, opera, commercials, custom

    bridal, and styling. As an ACD, she

    relies on efficiency, creative sourc-

    ing, pulling confidence, stamina,

    communication, and treasure-hunt-

    ing. She even finds some of her

    best training comes from her col-

    lege waitressing days, which gave

    her the ability to have a 360

    awareness of her responsibility and

    to systematically take care of every-

    one/thing with a delicate dance of

    agility!She suggests making your-

    self indispensable and then learn-

    ing what rejuvenates you so you

    stay charged for the long haul!For

    Leach, that includes a lot of singing

    and laughing even when were in

    the thick of it!

    [email protected]

    Positivity and friendliness are traits

    that this midwestern girl from out-

    side of Akron, Ohio, knows are just

    as important as her background in

    construction and fabrics. Haag

    moved to Southern California five

    years ago, after receiving a fellow-

    ship from UC Irvine, to obtain her

    MFA in costume design. Her under-

    graduate work in fashion and BFA

    in costume design from Kent State

    University helped her get started

    on her path.

    She believes designing is jug-

    gling. An ACD is not merely an

    extra costumer, but rather a design-

    er with an eye for detail and an

    understanding of storytelling, who

    supports the vision of the Costume

    Designer. In this way, the final out-

    come is stronger and richer in its

    complexity. While working as a

    sounding board, shopping, sourc-

    ing, and conveying notes she stays

    professional and friendly. For Haag

    the process of building is the most

    rewarding. If Im not loving it, than

    why am I here?

    [email protected]

    cant live without

    coffeeand good food

    cant live without

    inspirational photos,

    clean car, a great pen and

    my red leather binder

    cant live without

    innersoles, my blackberry,

    jacket pockets for pins,

    sharpies, phone

    JR Hawbaker

    [email protected]

    THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

    20 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

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    22 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

    ail: Flexible material made of interlocking

    metal links or rings; worn under armour for

    added protection until complete plate

    armour was used. The word refers to the

    actual material produced; each garment

    made from it has a specific name. A knee-length shirt is

    called a hauberk, a haubergeon if it comes to themid-thigh, while waist length is a byrnie. Mail

    leggings are chausses, hoods are coif, and mit-

    tens: mitons. One source cites eight different

    types used between the 11th and 13th centu-

    ry: ringed, trellised, rustred (sic), mascled

    (sic), scaled, teglated, banded.

    Maillot:Tight-fitting, one-piece swimsuit.

    Manga: Mexican coverall cloak similar

    to a poncho, not to be confused

    with Japanese anim!

    Mantua: The mantuawas launched in the 18th

    century and dominated it to

    such an extent that dressmakers

    were called mantua makers. It

    was a loose gown without

    stays worn by ladies

    and was introduced as a

    casual dress alternative

    to the heavily struc-

    tured court dress of

    the time. Worn

    with a high

    headdress, it

    imposed a triangular

    shape on the body. The name seems to have

    derived from the Italian dukedom where a

    particularly fine type of fabric was manufactured.

    Merveilleuse: Fashionable youngFrenchwomen of the late 18th century, who were

    the female counterpart of the Incroyable. They

    wore long, sleeveless dresses of fine muslin,

    antique (roman style) sandals and

    affected rather unkempt hair-

    styles, a sort of bed head look.

    Morian/Morion/Murrion: The hel-

    met of the 16th centu-ry, introduced by the

    Spaniards, who had

    copied if from the Moors,

    to the rest of Europe, about

    1550. It was open-faced and

    had no visor.

    Mufti: Street clothing worn by an officer of the Britisharmed forces instead of a uniform.

    Munisak Robe: Purely a female garment worn by theSamarkand (Uzbek) people, the Munisak was originally a sim-

    ple outer garment that later developed as more cere-

    monial. At the end of the 19th and early 20th cen-

    turies, it was worn for such occasions as birth feasts,

    holidays, weddings and family celebrations. It was

    made of woven ikat fabrics, the patterns of which

    implied hope for happiness, fertility and protection

    against the evil eye.

    Murex: Is the mollusk from which purple dyecomes. It is extremely labor intensive to extract

    which makes it very expensive. It was hugely

    popular with monarchs and was largely

    reserved for their use. Especially popu-

    lar with Roman emperors, by 400 AD it

    had been over harvested and was increas-

    ingly rare. One pound of dyed cloth was worth

    $20,000 in modern equivalency. It was also used

    by priests of the temple in Jerusalem where it is

    still used today.

    M

    HISTORY OF DRESS A-Z

    Illustrations by Robin Richesson

    [email protected]

    Text by Karyn Wagner

    [email protected]

    F O R Y O U R C O N S IDE R A T IO N IN A L L C A T E GO R IE S IN C L U DIN GF O R Y O U R C O N S IDE R A T IO N IN A L L C A T E GO R IE S IN C L U DIN GTHE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

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    24 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    F O R Y O U R C O N S IDE R A T IO N IN A L L C A T E GO R IE S IN C L U DIN GF O R Y O U R C O N S IDE R A T IO N IN A L L C A T E GO R IE S IN C L U DIN G

    BEST COSTUME DESIGNANN ROTH

    BEST COSTUME DESIGNANN ROTH

    Please visit www.TWCHighlights.comfor more information

    THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

    FAVORITE THINGS

    Joanna Johnston

    Western Costumes Research

    Library and research in general

    (books, magazines, Corbis and

    Getty Images etc.) Lots of it

    My own script breakdown, done

    by hand, the old-fashioned way

    Sketch materials, foam core and

    snotty tape for presentation

    boards

    My kit: including a pegboard

    system for swatches, stock of

    period undergarments, jewelry

    and period fabric, computer,

    camera, and music that the

    movie inspires

    Mary Zophres

    My personal mini-

    sewing/fitting kit

    My computer

    My 3-hole punch

    My small leather

    shoulder bag for my

    phone or sunglasses

    My coach measuring

    tape (a gift from Faye

    Seville 10 years ago)

    Digital camera

    14x17 acetate presentation

    folders

    Pre Val sprayers

    Spiral sketch notebook

    Coffee Any will do, but ... usually

    Starbucks tall non-fat latte

    Isis Mussenden

    Mark Bridges

    THESEAREAFEWO

    FMY

    Judianna Makovsky

    My library and picture files collected since high

    school for endless inspiration; Western Costumes

    library of hidden treasures and Bobbi who runs it

    Legal-size pocket files and a PTouch machine to

    keep the research organized

    Black and grey watercolor brush end markers,

    the best for quick sketching

    Zagats guides while on location ... must have

    good food.

    And pictures of my pets ..... to make me smile

    Masses of light, in a good space

    One visual kick that starts the job.

    Could be a color, a scrap of fabric,

    a smell, a picture of a mood or a portrait

    The smiles of my crew

    Music too diverse to mention

    My antique sock monkeys who gaze

    happily, watching the costume dept.

    drama!

    I am rather partial to green mesh bags

    and rail dividers

    Susan Lyall

    B&J Fabrics vast selection reminds you that any costume is possible

    Caran d'Ache water-soluble pencils if you are not a brilliant water colorist

    NY Public Library Picture Collection to begin any design process

    Metallic gold pens because they make everything look more interesting

    Acupuncture to undo the stress

    IN FOCUS

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    Fall 2008 The Costume26 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    IN FOCUS

    Materials:mechanical and woodless pencils,technical ink pens,assorted

    markers,specialty pens, gouache paint on fancy paper11x17 & 18x30.

    Sharen Davis and Felipe Sanchez had to create an illustration for theDream-

    girls debut scene to be part of the presentation to green light the film.Both

    Davis and director Bill Condon felt the feathers were the best eye candy

    against the starry,midnig ht sky lighting effect that was planned.

    During the actual design process for the film,Davis tested the idea of asteel grey fabric but felt it wasnt dreamy enough for the scene.After a mas-

    sive fabric hunt, she decided on the frosty white body with the blue facing

    and crystal embellishments (final sketch) that perfectly captured the mo-

    ment on screen.

    Davis: Mr.Sanchez is great at anticipating my thoughts of style,so with

    each film the illustrations are expedited with less discussion.

    At the start, Sanchez works with the designer on choosing poses and facial

    expressions. He also utilizes a variety of different illustration styles, papers

    and materials to find the best way to represent the mood of the project.

    Sanchez completed over 100 illustrations for the costumes,several of which

    were seen on screen during the end credits as well as ten additional

    illustrated posters for the film within the film, Cleopatra.

    DREAMGIRLS 2006Designer: Sharen Davis Illustrator: Felipe Sanchez

    THE PROCESS: SKETCH TO SCREEN

    Final sketch

    Presentation pencil sketch Stee

    Presenta

    DreamWorks/TheKobalCollectio

    n

    IN FOCUSF O R Y O U R C O N S I D E R A T

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    28 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    IN FOCUS

    ony Scotts languid vampire cult hit, The Hunger

    (1983),mates 80s attitude with traditional vampire

    myth and Egyptology. Complications with sun, gar-

    lic and stakes have been conveniently eradicated,

    and The Hungers glamorous daytime creatures

    drain humans once a week with a stiletto encased

    in an Ankh pendant.This stylish,moody and impec-

    cably designed film showcases designer Milena

    Canoneros costumes, especially the sophisticated, 40s-inflected

    look of elegant vampire Miriam Blaylock, played by Catherine

    Deneuve. Since I am currently designing the contemporary

    Southern gothic vampire showTrue Blood, I thought it would be

    inspiring to take a look back at this supernatural horror classic.

    Ancient Miriam has been a vampire since the time of the

    Pharaohs, and we see her in one bloody flashback in a Nefertiti

    crown feeding on a slave.In 18th century France,she took her cur-

    rent lover,John (David Bowie), falsely promising him eternal life.

    Two hundred hears later,coolly dressed to the nines in 80s fashion

    while the punk band Bauhaus wails Bela Lugosis Dead, the cou-

    ple prowls a downtown NYC club for fresh meat. Miriams costume

    epitomizes 40s/80s haute style: she wears a wide-shouldered

    leather jacket over a belted spandex cat suit,studded leather gaunt-

    let gloves,a sleek cocktail hat,and cat-eye sunglasses. John is more

    subdued,also in dark glasses,wearing a shiny black blazer.The dan-

    gerously chic pair quickly find willing prey:Ann Magnuson,dressed

    as a femme biker chick with one dangle earring, and her leather-clad boy-toy.

    When John begins the irreversible deterioration that Miriams

    lovers are cursed to endure,she seeks help from Dr.Sarah Roberts,

    played by Susan Sarandon,all eyes and spiky auburn hair. Sarahs

    costumes are simple but body-conscious:well-cut grey suits,belted

    at the waist,T-shirts,and pumps. Knowing full well that John will

    soon be a living corpse, Miriam chooses Sarah to be her next

    beloved companion,and the seduction begins.

    For Miriams first advance on Sarah, Canonero designed a

    dramatic ensemble: she appears at Sarahs book signing in a luxe

    cream cashmere overcoat, cinched sharply at the waist with a

    wide patent leather belt, a glittering salamander pin on one lapel,

    and a black cloche with black-and-white dotted veil pulled over

    her exquisitely made-up face. Miriam telepathically signals Sarah,

    who looks up to see this mysterious beauty, and instantly falls

    in love.

    Later the next day,when Sarah arrives at Miriams sumptuous

    upper East Side townhouse, her own costume references the vam-

    pires sudden influence: she wears an uncharacteristic marcasite

    swallow brooch on her lapel.Mir iam seduces Sarah in a sunlight-

    drenched afternoon of sex, and Sarah unknowingly exchanges

    blood with the vampire. Her transformation begins,and later that

    night, when she cannot sleep or satisfy her strange new hunger,

    Sarah sees a vision of Miriam as an 80s black widow, in a leather

    halter dress, beaded gloves and black veil,mour ning the loss of

    John but welcoming Sarah.

    The next day,sick and terrified, Sarah returns to the townhouse

    wearing an unusual golden trench coat,which alludes to an Egyptian

    goddessraiment and signals her mortal days are over.Sarah fights to

    the death with Miriam, who with her usually perfect golden hair

    hanging in her face and Sarahs blood soaking the cream silk of her

    dressing gown,is revealed to be a sadistic killer. In the last mysteri-

    ous shot Sarah,fully healed and dressed in f lowing white,admires the

    view from the balcony of a grand London apartment.Milena Canoneros designs in The Hungerbeautifully mirror

    the plot, guiding the audience as the heartless story unfolds.She

    has imagined for us the costumes of a polished 3000-year-old vam-

    pire who wields her perfect style like a weapon, making us fall in

    love ourselves.

    Audrey Fisher

    [email protected]

    T

    MGM/UA/TheKobalCollection

    Deadly Elegance: Milena Canoneros Costumes in The Hunger

    A LOOKBACKBEST PICTURE

    BEST COSTUME DESIGNANN ROTH

    B A S E D O N T H E P U L I T Z E R P R I Z E - W I N N I N G P L A Y

    FOR UP-TO-THE-MINUTE SCREENING INFORMATION

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    Sat., Nov. 15, 5:00 pm, Wilshire Screening Rm.

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    Sat., Nov. 29, 12:0

    IN FOCUS IN FOCUS

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    30 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    IN FOCUS

    CD Salvador Perez is designing ABCs Castle, a NYC crime

    drama about a novelist and detective trying to solve copy-cat

    murders lifted from the authors books; CDDalhia Schuette

    is working on the show as a costumer. CD Barbara Chen-

    naultis working on the new Comedy Central showChocolate

    Newsand having fun with her team.CD Heidi Kaczenskihastaken the helm atNip/Tuckwhile the shows former CD, Lou

    Eyrich, is designing the pilot of Foxs

    Glee, a new musical comedy set around

    high school glee clubs.The Amazing Mrs.

    Novak, a pilot about a supermarket man-

    ager who becomes the governor of New

    Jersey, is being designed by CD

    Genevieve Tyrrell.Also designing pilots:

    Kelli Jones is onNight and Day; Bob-

    bie Readis designing The Line; and

    Allyson Fangeris working onRuby and

    the Rockits starring brothers David and

    Patrick Cassidy, and produced by Shaun

    Cassidy.

    Jill Ohannesonis designing the drama

    seriesLie to Me for Fox. CD Shawna Tr-

    pcic is currently at work on Joss Whe-

    dons Dollhouse and recently wrapped

    Dr. Horribles Sing-Along Blog, a popular

    webisode on Hulu and iTunes. ABC Fam-

    ilys The Secret Life of the American

    Teenager is being designed by CD

    Sherry Thompson, with CD Sharon

    Sampsonserving as supervisor; the show was honored at

    the Teen Choice Awards for Best Summer Series. CD Liz

    Bassjust wrapped her second season o f CBS comedyRules

    of Engagement, completed the first season of Disneys Wiz-

    ards of Waverly Place, and designed the Nickelodeon pilot

    True Jackson. In her free time, Bass created the on-air looks

    for both the NFL Networks talent and the teen correspon-

    dents onKids Pick the Presidents.Allison Freerhas taken

    the reigns of the new series True Jackson, with ACD

    Andrea Sweetacting as supervisor. Nickelodeon is already

    working on a corresponding retail line based on Freers de-

    signs.

    CDWendy Benbrook is the designer for ABCsOpportunity

    Knocks, a traveling family game show. Carrie Krameris si-

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    IN FOCUS

    multaneously designing three talk shows:Dr. Phil, The Doc-

    tors, and Talkshow With S pike Feresten.Alycia Bellestyled

    the MTV showFN, featuring hot rock stars and music videos.

    CD Erin Lareau is styling the2008 Scream Awards, as well

    as designing the upcoming PBS special Yanni Voices: Live

    From Mundo Imperial. CD and stylist Elle Werlinstyledstars of hit TV shows Gossip Girl,30 Rock,FringeandKings

    for Nylon Magazines September

    issue. This fall,Werlin also styled edito-

    rials forCity Magazine, Vegas Maga-

    zine, plus Nylons October and

    November issues. ForTrace magazines

    fall 2008 issue cover Black Girls Rule!

    CDAne Crabtree styled Joie Lee, who

    was photographed for the piece by her

    brother, Spike Lee.

    CD Judianna Makovsky is in town

    through December designing the next

    M. Night Shyamalan fantasy-adventure

    film The Last Airbender, with illustra-

    tions byChristian Cordella. After her

    September honeymoon in Fiji, ACD

    Elaine Davis began working with CD

    Susan Matheson, who is designing

    the Universal film Couples. CDJacque-

    line Saint Anne recently wrapped the

    feature Christina, and is currently de-

    signing both aHeroeswebisode called

    Create Your Ow n Hero and the opera

    The Rape of Lucretia at USCs Thornton School of Music. CD

    Danielle Hollowellhas begun work on the psychological

    thrillerUnthinkable starring Samuel L. Jackson. CDArianne

    Phillips is prepping The Simple Man, directed by former

    Gucci guru Tom Ford. This fall in Napa and Lo s Angeles, CD

    Miye (Mimi) Matsumoto designed the Japanese remake of

    Alexander Paynes Sideways.

    ACD Monique Longjust wrapped the Sci-Fi channels Star-gate Atlantis on location in Las Vegas. Also in Vegas, CD

    Louise Mingenbachis designing Todd Phillips The Hang-

    over, a comedy about three groomsmen who lose their

    groom during a drunke n misadventure. In New Mexico, CD

    Michael Wilkinson just wrapped Terminator Salvation:

    The Future Begins and has now started Disneys sci-fi TR2N,

    BOLDFACE AT WORK

    Fringe stars styled by CD Werlin

    http://www.katieojewelry.com/
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    which will be shot in stereoscopic 3D. CD Frank Helmeris

    traveling to Atlanta to design The Preachers Kidfor Warner

    Premiere. CDs Marie France and Brie Harris are in Michi-

    gan designing the office comedyDemoted. CD Jeffrey Kur-

    landis off to Detroit and Philadelphia to shoot the thriller

    Law Abiding Citizen starring Gerard Butler and Catherine

    Zeta-Jones.

    Indie dramedyPaperMan, which focuses

    on an unlikely friend-

    ship between a failed

    writer and a Long Is-

    land teen, features

    costumes by CD

    Juliet Polcsaand was

    filmed in Montauk.

    CD Michael Kaplan

    is slated to design Dis-

    neys The Sorcerers

    Apprentice, starring

    Nicolas Cage as a sor-

    cerer who seeks out

    an apprentice in New

    York. CDAmy West-cottis in NYC design-

    ing the dark drama 13. CD Maria Schickerhas started work

    on Friendship!, prepping in Berlin and Los Angeles,

    and shooting in New York, New Mexico, Las Vegas, and

    San Francisco. CD

    Ane Crabtree is now

    shooting the film

    Every Dayin

    NYC. Crabtree just

    wrapped The Futur-

    ist, a folk tale about

    the music industry

    shot in Echo Park, for

    which she served as

    both CD and associate

    producer.

    CD Isis Mussenden

    will be traveling

    abroad to design the

    next Narnia install-

    ment, The Voyage of

    the Dawn Treader,

    32 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    BOLDFACE NAMESBOLDFACE AT WORK

    The Futurist, CD Ane Crabtree

    Mussenden designed costumefor Chevy

    IN FOCUS

    http://www.katieojewelry.com/http://www.gladsonltd.com/
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    Mackie,Gaynor/BryantphotoscourtesyGettyImages,WireImage

    34 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    slated for release in 2010. Recently,Mussenden and ACDKim-

    berly Adams Galligancreated costumes for mythological

    creatures in a Chevy commercial. CD Louise Frogleyis on lo-

    cation in Puerto Rico,once again designing for George Clooney

    in the historical drama,The Men Who Stare at Goats. The film

    also stars Jeff Bridges, Ewan McGregor and Kevin Spacey. CD

    Bonnie Stauchis designingAmsterdam, shooting in Los An-

    geles, Bulgaria and Amsterdam, and she recently did a SelectComfortmattress commercial. In the UK, Joanna Johnston

    has reteamed with director Richard Curtis on The Boat That

    Rocked,which chronicles pirate radio stations in 1966.Colleen

    Atwoodis currently prepping the next Rob Marshall musical

    extravaganzaNinewith ACD Colleen Kelsalland Tim Bur-

    tonsAlice in WonderlandwithChristine Cantellaserving

    as ACD.

    Correction: Genevieve Tyrellwas the CD forRace to Witch

    Mountain;Monique Longwas mistakenly listed as the CD in

    the Spring 2008 issue.

    The Hollywood Life, Hollywood Style Awards honored leg-

    endary designerBob Mackie as Costume Design icon, and

    BOLDFACE HONORS

    Icon Bob Mackie and presenter Mitzi Gaynor

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    IN FOCUS

    BOLDFACE AT WORK

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    Fall 2008 The Costume

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    his dear friend, Mitzi Gaynor, presented him with the award.

    That night, CDJanie Bryantalso took home the award for

    Most Stylish Show,Mad Men. At this years Hollywood Film

    Festival, a black-tie gala at the Beverly Hilton, Changeling

    director Clint Eastwood presented CD Deborah Hopper

    with the Hollywood Costume Designer of the Year Award.

    CD Marcy Froehlichwas nominated again this year for

    two Ovation Awards for Costume Design forBus Stop and

    Picasso at the Lapin Agile, both at the Rubicon Theatre in

    Ventura. CD Maggie Morgans designs will be featured in

    the New York Public Library for the Performing Arts Cur-

    tain Call: Celebrating a Century of Women Designing for

    Live Performance . The exhibit in Linc oln Center Plaza will

    run through May 2009.

    Though CD Caroline MarxwrappedHSM3, the merchan

    dising marches on. In addition toHSM3 dolls, wax figures of

    Zac Efron are being produced for Madame Tussauds Wax

    Museums (London, Vegas and Hollywood) where Disney

    BOLDFACE ENTREPRENEURS

    HSM3 dolls, costumes by Caroline Marx

    Bryant accepts her stylish awardMackie,Gaynor/BryantphotoscourtesyGettyImages,

    WireImage

    BOLDFACE HONORS

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    CostumeRentals offers year-round acceGuthrie and The Childrens Theatre Co

    combined inventory of extraordinary costu

    PHOTO CREDITS (L TO R) : JENNIFER BLAGEN (MICHAL DANIEL), ROBERT CUCCIOLI (T CHARLES ERICKSON), CHRISTINA B

    Over 30,000 costumesDesigns by leading theatrical designe

    Storybook and fantasy characters

    Shoes, hats, masks and accessorie

    Costume Rentals Manufacturing Prep

    Tel: 818.954.1297 Fax: 818.954

    COSTUMEDESIGNCE

    and 2008 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All rights reserved

    Fall 2008 The Costume

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    negotiated plaques crediting M arx as CD. CD Erin Lareaus

    Pav Crystal Art and Accessories are being showcased at the

    Borata Hotel in Atlantic

    City and at Erin

    Lareau.com.

    CD Sandy Ampons

    Happy Hearts Beads

    sell spiritually themed

    Buddhist prayer beads

    made with gemstones,

    designer glass and

    Swarovski crystals.

    Check out her designs

    at happyhearts

    beads.com. New mem

    ber and CD Kerrie Ko

    rdowski is expanding

    her side business, Opal

    Moon Designs, which offers one-of-a-kind clothing pieces,

    jewelry, and unique Pocket Belts.During the multi-city Gap

    Silver Event Tour, Commercial StylistsTanya GillandJen-

    nifer Radewere hired to offer fashion advice to customers

    working with Gaps new fall merchandise.

    Hear CDAlexandra Welkers interview onA Day in theWork Life, a regular feature on NPRs Marketplace: http://

    marketplace.publicradio.org/display/web/2008/09/19/ditl/.

    This September,Entertainment Weekly featured CD Mona

    Mayand herHouse Bunny designs in Do the Bunny Shop.

    This October in The O.C. Register(http://www.ocregis-

    ter.com/articles/morgan-catherine-costume-2191310-

    costumes-hats#). CD Maggie Morgandiscussed creating

    BOLDFACE PRESS

    CD AmponsHappy Hearts Beads

    CD Kordowskis Opal Moon Designs

    BOLDFACE ENTREPRENEURS

    38 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    http://www.tvccleaners.tv/
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    40 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    BOLDFACE PRESS

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    1850s period costumes for South Co ast Reps upcoming pro-

    duction ofThe Heiress. On September 19, Varietys V Plus

    Emmy Style/Fall Fashion section was choc-a-block with arti-

    cles featuring C DG members. FIDMs Outstanding Art of Tele-

    vision Costume Design exhibit was highlighted. The show is

    always a huge success and was beautifully curated this year by

    our own CDG President, Mary Rose. In another piece, The

    Women Share a Common Thread,CD John Dunnwas inter-

    viewed about his Costume Design for Diane Englishs recentadaptation ofThe Women. The last article, Emmy Nominees

    Suit Up, has CDs Amy Westcott, Shelly Levine, Tom

    Broeckerand Carey Bennettdiscuss their choice of suits

    for their male leads on their respective shows, demonstrating

    that the suit really does make the man. Read more at:

    h t t p : / / w w w . v a r i e t y . c o m / i n d e x . a s p ? l a y o u t

    =awardcentral&jump=features&id=emmystyle. This fall, the

    L.A. TimesImage section ran some fabulous costume-centric

    features. On August 10, Denim Is Dona Granatas Canvas

    spotlighted the

    character develop-

    ment and process be-

    hind the famous

    jeans ofThe Sisterhood

    of the Traveling Pants

    2.And the September21 piece, Keira

    Knightley, Fashion

    Chameleon,featured

    the actress best-

    known costumes and

    appropriately cred-

    ited all her Costume

    Designers including

    Penny Rose and

    Jacqueline Durran.

    CDAnya Sarre ,who designs bothEntertainment Tonight and

    The Insider, has a weekly fashion cam segment on The In-

    sider. This fall, Sarre was featured in a documentary photo ex-

    hibit by the fashion charity Little Black Dress and honored at

    the Bel Air Film Festival for her achievements as a designer.

    Teen Vogue selected CD Mandi Line to speak about fashions

    from The Clique at Fashion University this October. Early in

    2009, Line will head back to NYC to design The Clique 2 & 3.

    Dona Granatas Traveling Pants

    continued on page 43

    WORKc

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    http://www.tvccleaners.tv/
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    Fall 2008 The Costume

    costume departmentHigh-EndContemporary Clothing& AccessoriesMensandWomensVintagethru Modern

    545 Circle Seven Drive Glendale, CA 91201 818.553.4800 (p) 818.545.0468 (f)Monday - Friday 8am-6pm

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    Labels

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    for a future label cover!

    BOLDFACE PRESS

    BOLDFACE NAMES

    CDArianne Phillips designed

    the costumes for style icon

    Madonnas Sticky and Sweet

    Tour, withPhillip Boutte illus-

    trating. Sketches of Madonnas

    costumes were previewed on

    both Womens Wear Dailys and

    Perez Hiltons websites. CD Bob

    Mackie strikes again: Perez

    Hilton also featured Mackiessketch of a sexy chocolate

    brown creation for Tina Turners

    World Tour.

    Compiled by

    Suzanne Huntington [email protected]

    Rachael Stanley [email protected]

    Audrey Fisher [email protected]

    Deena Appel [email protected]

    WWD showcases CD Phillips,Illustrator Boutte

    WHATS ON WHATS

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    Worst Week

    Costume Designer:

    FLORENCE-ISABELLEMEGGINSON

    44 The Costume Designer Fall 2008 Fall 2008 The Costume

    WorstWeekCBS/MontyBrinton,TheMentalistCBS,TheCleanerA&E,PrivilegedTheCW/PatrickEcclesine,90210TheCW/ArtStreiber,FringeFOX/PatrickHarbon,Tru

    eBloodHBO,MyOwnWorstEnemy

    NBC/MitchellHaaseth,Kath&KimNBC/MitchellHaaseth,GaryUnmarriedCBS/MontyBrinton,E

    leventhHourWarnerBros.Television/AdamTaylor,CrashStars

    Privleged

    Costume Designer:NICOLE GORSUCH

    Assistant Designer:

    ALEXANDRA BECRAFT

    90210

    Costume Designer:DEBRA MCGUIRE

    Eleventh Hour

    Costume Designer:

    JOLIE ANDREATTA

    Kath & Kim

    Costume Designers:

    MARIO MARTINES &JESSICA REPLANSKY

    Gary Unmarried

    Costume Designer:SUSAN MICHALEK

    The Mentalist

    Costume Designer:JULIA SCHKLAIR

    The CleanerCostume Designer:

    JOSEPH PORRO

    Fringe

    Costume Designer:

    MARIE ABMA

    True Blood

    Costume Designer:

    AUDREY FISHER

    Assistant Designer:

    ANDREA SWEET

    My Own Worst Enemy

    Costume Designer:

    KATHRYN MORRISON

    Crash

    Costume Designer::

    AMY STOFSKY

    Assistant Designer:

    ERIKA WALTHALL

    Justice

    Costume Designer:

    KATHLEEN DETORO

    Milk

    Costume Designer:DANNY GLICKER

    Asst. Designer (LA prep):

    AUDREY FISHER

    Twilight

    Costume Designer:WENDY CHUCK

    Assistant Designer:JORDANNA FINEBERG

    High School Musical

    3: Senior Year

    Costume Designer:

    CAROLINE MARXAssistant Designer:BRIE HARRIS

    Illustrator:KAREN YAN

    Quantum of Solace

    Costume Designer:LOUISE FROGLEY

    Changeling

    Costume Designer:

    DEBORAH HOPPER

    The Sp

    Costume D

    MICHAEL DE

    Marley & Me

    Costume Designer:

    CINDY EVANS

    The CuriousBenjamin

    Costume D

    JACQUELINAssistant D

    MARJORIE M

    The Brothers BloomCostume Designer:

    BEATRIX ARUNAPASZTOR

    ShanghaiCostume Designer:

    JULIE WEISS

    Assistant Designer:MICHAEL CROW

    Four Christmases

    Costume Designer:

    SOPHIE CARBONELL

    Assistant Designer:

    MARIAN TOY

    Illustrator:

    JACQUELINE WAZIR

    WHAT S ON WHAT S

    QuantumofSolaceColumbia/M

    GM,TheSpiritLionsgate/OddLotEntertainment,Marley&MeFOX/BarryWetcher/SMPSP,MilkFocusFeatures/PhilBray,TwilightSummitEntertainment,

    TheCuriousCaseofBenjamin

    ButtonParamountPictures,TheBrothersBloomSummitEntertainment/SlobodanPikula,ShanghaiTWC/MurrayClose,ChangelingUniversalStudios/TonyRivetti,

    Jr.,

    YesManWarnerBros./Melissa

    Moseley,HighSchoolMusical3:SeniorYearDisneyEnterprises/FredH

    ayes,FourChristmasesNewLine/JohnP.Johnson

    Yes M

    Costume D

    MARK BRAssistant De

    KIMBERLY& ANITA C

    SCRAPBOOK

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    46 The Costume Designer Fall 2008

    SCRAPBOOK

    CourtesyoftheAcademyofMotionPictureArtsandSciences,MargaretHerrickLibrary

    Dustin Hoffman and Ruth Morley, Tootsie,1982.