VOLUME IX, NUMBER 1, FALL 1999

The

Chile Pepper Institute '

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,,,~://www.nmsu.edu/-hotchi lelindex. html E-mail: hotchile@nmsu.edu

Spanish Piquillo Chiles by Dr. Paul Bosland

Recently, the New York Times, Bon Ap- petite, Gourmet, and other food maga- zines have published stories about the "Piquillo" chile. ~ a i ~ of our mem-

. bers have written asking about this chile. The '

piquillo, also known as "Pimientos del Piq- uilli", is grown extensively in Spain. We con- tacted Dr. Julio Muro at the Public University of

[ Navarra in Pamplona to get the authoritative in- r formation about this unique chile.

Dr. Muro described the piquillo as being . similar to the pimiento-pod type chile grown in

the United States. Young pods are green and t . mature to a deep, bright red with a somewhat - slender triangular shape. They are about 4-

i inches long with a curved point (tip); hence, the name piquillo. They are very flavorful and slightly pungent. Presently, only the fruits pre- served in brine are available in the United States.

The Piquillo is a landrace type chile, grown around the area of Lodosa, Navarra. Its popu- larity has increased and it can now be found growing in Portugal and Morocco, although the major production area is still in the province of Navarro. About 800 hectares (2000 acres) are grown in the Navarro area.

Traditionally, the Navarrese farmers save seeds from their plants, or canners provide them with the seeds that are extracted from the processed fruits. Therefore, there is a great amount of genetic diversity among the lan- draces in the region. The University at Navarra has begun a breeding and selection program to improve uniformity and yields of the piquillo, without losing the piquillo's subtle .and unique flavors.

The pods of Piquillo are processed in the tra- ditional way. They are roasted over beech or oak to aid in removing the outer skin. After the pods are roasted, they are skinned by hand; no water is used to wash the skins off as is done in the United States. The organoleptic (taste) properties of the chile are'preserved by not us- ing water. If the pods were steamed or gas flamed roasted and then run through a water bath, many of the subtle flavors associated with the piquillo would be lost.

The processed piquillo pods are canned in brine and have an aroma reminiscent of the wood ovens in which they were roasted. They retain their slightly pungent rich chile flavor, with the wood smoked undertones.

They are best appreciated when stuffed with meat, seafood, or cheese. Although they are de- licious when stuffed, they have an excellent fla- vor when sauteed in olive oil and garlic. We have included a recipe, "Piquillo chiles stuffed with codfish", for your enjoyment*

Celebrity products are nothing new. High- profile celebrity names are on everything from per- fume to clothing to motor oil to shoes. It was only a matter of time before they would discover food, es- peaally the "hot stuff." Salsas and hot sauces are now marketed under the names of comedians and movie stars (sometimes one and the same) and sports stars. While celebrity marketing can be a gimmick for a quick buck, the folks whose pictures are on many hot food products are taking the whole business quite seriously. How did this happen? 'Do these people hide out in their kitchens, stirring up the old family recipes? Do food producers look around for a celebrity to match up with their prod- uct? Or is it the marketers who create these matches made in heaven? The answer to each of these ques- tions is yes, yes, and yes.

Paul Newman, for example, has Newman's Own All-Natural Bandito Salsa. Here is one of the highest-profile celebrities of modern time who does, in fact, whip up recipes in his kitchen. Recipes for the extensive line of Newman's Own products come from either Newman himself, his family, or from someone within the company. Newman's Own Salsa has been on the market for six years and comes in six versions: mild, medium and hot, and peach, pineapple and garlic. Bill Lee, vice president of Newman's Own, says the interesting flavors in the latter three come from the contrast of the hot and the sweet. Paul Newman's favorite? "The hot salsa," says Lee. Newman's Own also markets All Natural Diavolo Sauce for pasta, a very hot sauce used with chicken or fish.

Although the products are marketed nationally, Newman's Own salsas sell the most in the north- eastern part of the country, according to Lee, "be- cause people there do not make their own salsa." Their marketing research indicates that purchasers of their products are college-educated, higher- income families with two or more children. Lee says that at this time, Newman's Own does not have plans to expand their hot foods line.

Cheech Marin, a powerhouse entertainer whose credits include acting, directing, writing, music and art collecting, is a celebrity who does not mix his own hot sauces but who throws himself into the joy of tasting and eating them. Some of us will recall his hilarious run as part of the duo Cheech and Chong, others as a star of the CBS show "Nash Bridges," and anybody who goes to movies has seen him in nu- merous high-powered films. He also provides voice-overs in blockbuster children's animated films and has recorded bilingual children's albums. The list goes on and on, and the question that comes to mind is: "Why hot food? Don't you have enough on your plate?" "Well," says the Cheech, "they asked me." The "they" consists of his artist friend Alan Aldridge, and the hot food manufacturer and marketer Figueroa Brothers, Inc. They asked the right person, as Marin is really into food. "I cooked for hotels and restaurants during my youth," he says. "I cook every day when I'm home. I love it! From my Mexican heritage I know a lot about chiles, and I wanted habanero, and I wanted it (my prod- uct) to have a whang." Taking into account some of his requests, Figueroa Brothers experimented with sauces and sent bottles to Marin to taste. "I'd gather a bunch of friends and we'd go to a restaurant or my house to taste. You can weed out some right away, and after that it comes down to what your taste is as well as making some allowances for the taste of the general public. Through that process we came up with the intensity and flavors that I like. My favor- ite is the Mojo Mango." Typically, people associate hot sauces with Mexican food, says Marin, but hot sauces cross over into many cuisines. He likes the mango sauce with shrimp and chicken and with Asian ingredients like beef with noodles, bean sprouts, mint and cilantro.

Continued on page 3 . . . The Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter Danise Coon, Production Lilly Domingug Contributing Editor Printed by TaCom Printing Services

The Chide Pepper Institute NMSU, Box 30003, MSC 3Q, Las Cruces, NM 88003 (fOS) 646-3028 E-mail: hotchile@nmsu.edu World Wide Web site: http://www.nmsu.cdd-ho~hile.html

A Non-Profit, International Organization Devoted to the Study of Capsicums - - - .

Paul W. Bosland, Director Danise Coon, Administrative Assistant

The Chile Pepper Institute Board of Directors Emma Jean Cervantes, Chair,

Cervantes Enterprises, Inc., Vado, NM Louis Biad, Bind Chile Co., Las Cruces, NM Paul W. Boaland, NMSU, Las Cruces, NM Dave DeWitt, E I Food Magazine,

Albnquerque, NM Javia Vargas, NMSU, Las Cruces, NM -

Ron Gurley, NMSU, Las Cruces, NM Wendy Hamilton, NMSU, Las Cruces, NM James Volk, President/Director & C.E.O. of

State National Bank

New Mexico State University ex officio Directors Dr. Jerry Schickedanz, Interim Dean, College

of Agriculture and Home Economics Dr. James Fisher, Interim Department Head,

Agronomy and Horticulture Dr. Gary Cunningham, Director, Agricultural

Experiment Station

There are three The Cheecha hot sauces: Gnarly Garlic (habaneros, carrots, onions, "much garlic and a splash of lime juice"), Smokin' Chipotle (jalapenos, cayenne, tabasco and habanero together with molasses, sugar cane vinegar, and a little rum), and Mojo Mango (mangoes and habaneros). Figueroa Brothers president David 0. Figueroa feels that Marin, the gourmand, has provided the company with the opportunity "to do its best work!, The products have been available only on the inter- net at www.thecheech.com, but following food show exposure in California this January, Ma- rin hopes to see his products "everywhere!, Their nationally targeted retail markets include specialty gourmet stores, Latin American and Mexican stores and grocery stores. A hot mar- keting campaign employs unforgettable T- shirts, posters, and counter displays. "I hope that everyone has a lot of fun with these prod- ucts," Marin says, "They taste good and are good for your health. Later on we'll probably do more foods. We're trying to take our time and make sure that these are real quality prod- uct~!~

Jefl Foxworthy pursued another route to product development. David Womick, CEO of Redneck Foods, was approached by comedian Jeff Foxworthy's agent about starting a restau- rant with Foxworthy's name on it. "I thought it was one of the greatest ideas I ever heard," he says, "Everyone readily identifies with Jeff!' Thus, Jeff Foxworthy's Backyard Bar-B-Q was born, and with it the generation of five barbe- cue sauces including Redneck Hot and Extreme Hot.

sauce. Also in the line are Tangy Mustard and Carolina Bourbon. Extreme Hot, says Womick, "came from knowing that we needed a very hot sauce in our restaurants. It's papaya with ha- banero, and is great with catfish, pork, or chicken!, Womick notes that although the sauce is hot, it enhances food rather than masks it." He points out that barbecue is a very re- gional taste, so their line of sauces offers people either what they want or the opportunity to try something new. And yes, Jeff Foxworthy has his hand deeply in the pot - - sauces are devel- oped from his own recipes and he has been on the promotion train, including national talk shows. "He's committed to be out there," says Womick.

This is only the beginning for Foxworthy, the largest-selling comedy recording artist in history, TV star, and writer of nine best-selling books. Jeff Foxworthy's Backyard Bar-B-Q and its full service partner Jeff Foxworthy's Smokehouse Grill are "going to grow explosively" in Florida, North Carolina, and Georgia, according to Redneck Foods marketing director Dave Bonyun ("The Marketing Guy"). The sauces will also be available in supermarkets within the next two to three years and who knows, there might be more hot sauces on the way.

Newman, Marin, and Foxworthy are but only a few of the celebrities with their own special commodity. These celebrities know what they like, their personal taste stamps the product, and they are out there telling everybody about it. Perhaps your favorite superstar will be the next! w

Prize-winning Redneck Hot is a spicy ver- sion of the original molasses-based barbecue

Really Chile Festival The Really Chile Festival, honoring the New

Mexico chile as proclaimed by Governor Gary Johnson, took place at Eaves Ranch (twenty minutes from the Santa Fe plaza) on September 18, 1999. Eaves Ranch, a cowboy town with eight stores, was filled with an assortment of delicious food (tapas, fajitas, frito pies, goat cheese and roasted green chile on grilled tortil- las) and unusual chile products, i.e. chile golf clubs, chile shrines, etc. The two Chileyille sa- loons served beer, including chile beer, from four micro breweries. Entertainment took place in the saloons from high noon till sundown and included Sharon Wagner of Abiquiu, tejano music, and recorded music: reggae and songs

by Willy Nelson as well as Stevie Wonder. Reining over Chileville were King Nic Carson, president of the chile growers association, and Queen Josie Gallegos, owner of the famous Santa Fe Restaurant, "Josie's!' They were crowned by Congressman Tom Udall, who also gave the coveted Really Chile Humanitarian Award to Darby McQuade of Jackalope for his compassionate deeds over the years. The town was dripping in chile ristras that were for sale and a vendor who roasted green chile so that all could fill their freezers with New Mexico green for the millennium. Authors signed their chile books at the Chile Bookstore while the sheriff of Chileville performed weddings and renewed

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vows in the Chile Chapel. A raffle for one-year of chile supplies was held with a percentage of the prof- its from the raffle going towards Christmas gifts for the children of those who lost their chile crops to the rain. Also, a percentage from the sale of Really Chile tee shirts was donated to The Chile Pepper Institute for chile research. The event was produced by the owner of Really Chile, Annette Adams, a New Mexico resident for 24 years. If you would like to purchase a Really Chile tee shirt ($16) or would like more infor- mation on Really Chile, call 505--820--1726 and ask for Annette "Chileo." w

Oleoresin Oleoresin, prepared from chiles, is popular

among food processors and other industries needing a concentrated pungency or red color additive. When pungent chiles are used in the extracting process, the resulting product is called "oleoresin capsicum." This product is used by medicinal and food industries. The use of non- pungent (paprika) chile in the extracting process results in a product called "oleoresin paprika." Oleoresin is available in two basic forms: oil soluble and water soluble.

Oleoresin is obtained from dried chile pricarp ,

by extraction with a volatile non-aqueous solvent (often hexane), which is subsequently removed from the oleoresin by evaporation at moderate temperatures and under partial vacuum. Oleoresin contains the aroma and flavor of the concentrated form of paprika or other chile types and is usually viscous liquid or semisolid material.

Oleoresin, because of its concentrated traits, is used for standardizing the pungency, color, and flavor of food products. Due to its high concentration, oleoresin cannot be incorporated

into food products unless it is diluted. The dilution is usually achieved by dissolving the oleoresin in an appropriate solvent to make an essence. The paprika oleoresin is usually diluted with soybean oil.

Oleoresin capsicum, made from the most pungent pod types, is used for pharmaceutical products, anti-mugger sprays, etc. Color content is unimportant for these products, but they do require a concentrated pungency. This product has limited use in modifying the pungency level of food products.

Oleoresin extractors are located in many countries around the world. Facilities for producing high pungency oleoresin are located in India, Africa, and China near the production areas of low cost, very pungent pepper pods. Paprika oleoresin is produced in several countries with Spain, Ethiopia, Morocco, Israel, India, U.S.A., Mexico, and South Africa leading the list of top producers of the product.

Health Benefits of Chile For all of you who suffer from migraine

headaches, stomach discomfort or a variety of other illnesses, relief may be on the way via the almighty chile pepper. Dave DeWitt, Melissa Stock and Kellye Hunter have compiled "chile pepper recipes and folk remedies for better health and living in their new book," The Healing Power of Peppers. Peppered with personal testimonials from satisfied users of this amazing medicinal wonder, the book includes "a wealth of scientific and medical information!' Dr. Andrew T. Weil, M.D., who wrote the Foreword praises the authors as having "done a monumental job of collecting that information and making it available in a readable, accessible form, complete with recipes."

The book takes you on a "pepper tour" detailing information from chile cures," to "chile chemistrv!'

It talks about "hot healing- how the chile works" and "cayenne as a curative." It offers advice on "short circuiting the pain," pains such as "back pain, rheumatism, arthritis," "healing the skin," and other afflictions. It even includes information on "spicing up your life," by describing "the chile effect," and providing "hot and healthy recipes."

The Healing Power of Peppers offers a little something for everyone, whether it is healing an ailment or "spicing up your life." The authors, Dave DeWitt, Melissa Stock and Kellye Hunter represent the editing staff of Fiery Foods Magazine. Collectively, they have authored more than twenty- five cookbooks and resource books on chile peppers.

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Page 4 Chile Pepper Institute

Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Codfish This is one of the most typical ~ ; s ~ u e dishes

on the menu at Manchu. Piquillo peppers-- slightly sweet and spicy-are a delicacy grown predominantly in the Basque province of Alava and in Navarre. The peppers are handpicked and roasted in brick ovens before being peeled and preserved in brine, In the United States, these bottled peppers are available at specialty food stores or by mail order from Zingerman's Delicatessen (422 Detroit St., Ann Arbor, MI 48104: 313-769-1625). You can substitute fresh pimientos or small red bell peppers.

Dried salt cod is a staple of Basque cooking. Before it is cooked, it must be soaked to eliminate excess salt and to rehydrate. In this recipe, allow 36 hours for soaking.

SERVINGS: 4 115 pound skinless, boneless salt cod, prefera-

bly a thick center-cut piece 4 M tablespoons ol- ive oil 1 M tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups milk

16 roasted piquillo peppers (from two 6- ounce jars),drained

I Spanish onion (about 8 ounces), coarsely chopped 1 medium carrot, thinly sliced cross- wise 1 fresh parsley sprig plus I tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 M table- spoons dry sherry Kosher salt

1. In a large bowl, soak the salt cod in plenty of fresh water in the refrigerator for 36 hours, change the water at least 5 times. Drain. Cut the

cod crosswise into 114 -inch strips.

2. In a medium saucepan, warm 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over moderate heat. Add the salt cod a d cook, stirring gently, to heat through, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the flour until incorporated. Gradually mix in the milk. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring of- ten, until mixture has thickened, about 25 min- utes. Cool to room temperature.

3. Keeping the roasted peppers intact, remove any seeds and carefully stuff each pepper with a heaping tablespoon of the cod mixture.

4. In a large nonreactive skillet, warm the re- maining 1 % tablespoons olive oil over moder- ately low heat. Add the onion, carrot, parsley sprig and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about12 minutes, Blend in the remaining % tablespoon flour and then stir in 1 cup of water, Bring to a boil, cover and cook for 1 0 minutes to blend the flavors. Uncover, stir in the s h m y and simmer for 3 minutes- Transfer the mixture to a food processor and puree until com- pletely smooth. Pour the sauce back into the skillet. Season with kosher salt.

5. Carefully place the stufSed peppers in the sauce. Cover and simmer gently over low heat until the peppers are heated through, about 3 minutes. Transfer the peppers to seruing plates and spoon the sauce around them. Sprinkle the chopped parsley on top and serve at once.

--Teresa Barrenechea

Food & Wine, July 1996, page 103

Capsicum News Geaes for Gqmakhd Ibqmthesis fram Chlk

A study entitled Genes for Capsaicinoid Biosyn- thesisfrom Chile, by J. Curry, et al. Of the Depart- ment of Agronomy and Horticulture, Molecular Biology Program, at New Mexico State University, will show how capsaicinoids are synthesized in the epidermal layer of the placenta. The goal of this project is to isolate and characterize the genes re- sponsible for capsaicinoid biosynthesis. To date, the group has cloned, sequenced and characterized

eight structural genes and one regulatory gene from habanero chile. These molecular tools will be used to 1) understand the environmental effects on capsaicinoid accumulation in chile, 2) engineer capsaicinoid synthesis, and 3) understand the regu- lation of plant secondary metabolism. w

Source: Fiery Foods & Barbecue Business, No. 13, May/ June 1999

Growers Overlooking Ethnic Markets

According to Irvin Widders, a vegetable specialist at Michigan State University, Lansing, growers traditionally have not produced much for ethnic markets and may be missing an opportunity to diversify their crops. There is a need for Hispanic items, such as hot and sweet specialty peppers, including serranos, jalapenos and cubanels; Chinese vegetables; produce for Italian dishes; such as white and painted eggplants; etc. "Marketers and their suppliers need to be receptive to their customer's needs for ethnic items," said Brian Kloet, Controller for Superior Sales, Inc., Hudsonville, Michigan. If somebody wants

serrano peppers, 'We'll get them for them,"' he said. "We're selling more jalapenos than ever, said Jerry Van Solkema, president of Van Solkema Produce Inc., Byron Center, Michigan. Steve Krampe, Sales Manager for Van Singe1 Farms Produce Marketing LLC, Grant Michigan, recommends that perhaps it would be worthwhile for younger growers to explore new crops for new markets, experimenting on a limited basis in the hopes that large production could come later." w

Source: i%e Packer, June 29,1999

improvements of Cayenne Cultham for New Mexico

Improvements of Cayenne Cultivars developing one with both of these for New Mexico is the theme of a study characteristics. Evaluated in the study conducted by Mary K. Riley and Paul are three low yielding but early matur- Bosland, Department of Agronomy ing cultivars and three cultivars that and Horticulture at New Mexico State are late maturing but high yielding. University. New Mexico has become a These cultivars are representative of leading producer of cayenne chiles, those grown in New Mexico. Yield and meeting the demands of cayenne data was combined from both harvests. growers in New Mexico requires high Field yields and market yields were yielding cultivars. In addition, culti- much higher for the late maturing cul- vars with early maturing pods would expand the tivars than for the early maturing cultivars. Mesilla harvest season, ultimately resulting in higher and Durkee Number 8 rated the highest yields. w yields. Unfortunately, there is no cayenne cultivar that is both high yielding and early maturing, and Source: Fiery Foods & Barbecue Business, No. 13, familiarity with existing cultivars is necessary for May/ June 1999

Jalapeiio Revolutionizes Entire Salsa/Picante Industry

The TAM, mild jalapeno (TMJ-I), revolution- a leading hot variety. Subsistence farmers ized the entire salsalpicante industry (with an esti- throughout the world will now be able to grow mated worth of $1 billion in 1997), which outsold these peppers with more security and at less loss. tomato catsup in terms of dollar value in 1991. Increased food production is accomplished utiliz- More TMJ-1 seed is sold than any other jalapeno ing fewer chemicals and less acreage, making it variety, and the hot TAM-Veracruz jalapeno is now easier to maintain environmental quality. This has

Page 6 Chile Pepper Institute

important implications for more efficient pro- duction of other food crops in a sustainable ag- ricultural system. w

Source: Fiery Foods & Barbecue Business, No. 13, May/June 1999

BURNING ~UEEiTION3 ANSWERED

Question: I have read that the hot taste of peppers comes from a substance called capsanthin ,r capsaicin which can vary in strength. There are people who advertise their ability to eat the hottest peppers, and I would like to know whether it is pos- sible to mix the capsanthin in such concentrated amounts that it could be harmful to the palate, throat, or stomach of even the most daring and ex- perienced hot food lover?

- John

Answer: The compounds that cause heat are called capsaicinoids with capsaicin being one of them. Capsanthin is one of the red pigments in chiles. Yes, it is possible to take pure capsaicin and make a solution so hot that it can blister the tissue of any body part. People that can eat hot foods are called "non--tastersN because they have few taste buds or receptors for tasting and, therefore, do not feel the same heat as a "taster!' Each individual is different and will build up a tolerance to a certain level of heat. Capsaicin is used in animal repellents and "pepper sprays!"

Question: Do most chiles self-pollinate?

- David, TX

Answer: Chiles are usually considered a self-- pollinated crop and their ability to cross-pollinate is tremendously greater than expected. A study at New Mexico State University in 1984 showed cross--pollination rates up to 42% with bees as the + main pollenator.

Question: I am interested in preserving the fruit of chiles as dry artifacts. I have seen pictures of dried peppers strung up and I am aware that they have different names. Are they air dried or smoked?

-Andrew, Comwall

Answer: Stringing chiles and hanging them to dry originates from a very old tradition here in New Mexico. From the middle of September until the first frost, chile matures and turns red; traditionally, these chiles are strung up to dry and are called "ristras!' Chiles (usually jalapeiios or any other thick meated chiles) smoked with wood chips in an oven or outside smoker are called "chipotle."

Question: r am from Las Cruces but I am currently living in Australia. I am growing some NuMex Big Jim chiles from New Mexico in my back yard. Hopefully they will grow and ripen before the weather turns cold here. A few are getting pretty big; however, I don't want them to turn red on the plant. How do I know when to pick them?

-Mike Edwards

Answer: As chiles ripen, the pods become more firm. A gentle squeeze on the fruit is the best method. With a little practice, you will become a professional chile picker. Pick chiles before any redness appears, this helps when trying to remove the skins after being roasted or blistered. Red skins seem to stick to the pod.

Page 7

Rezolex, Ltd. Co. is an oleoresin paprika and custom extract processing plant owned and op- erated by the Biad family of New Mexico. Lo- cated in Radium Springs, deep in Southern New Mexico, Rezolex was constructed in 1992 and supplies paprika oleoresin to users interna- tionally. The plant's ideal location, "in the heart of a major @owing region," facilitates solvent extraction within hours of harvest.

Rezolex "prides itself on 'accessibility' to the customer," and is able "to provide immediate support to specific requests." Their technical - *.

and management personnel are "just a call away." Along with paprika oleoresin, Rezolex provides custom processing, They are also

The Chile Pepper Institute NMSU, Box 30003, MSC 3 4 Las Cruces, NM 88003 (505) 646-3028

directing their efforts toward developing their ; ability to extract other products, and are . "currently working to develop mechanical means to compliment their solvent extraction capabilities!'

"The key to Rezolex's continued success lies with the company's access to the raw product!' Along with Rekolex, the Biad family owns and operates extensive farming opepations and three major chile de-hydrating plants, strategically placed within the major growing &eas of the southwest. For information regarding Rezolex, send correspondence to 3200 Southwind Road, Las Cruces, NM 88005, call i

them at (505) 527-1730, or fax them at 527-0221. , w

A ~ o n i ~ r o f i t , International Organization Devoted to the Study of Capsicums