the cellar door issue 24. wine and sustainability

Cellar Doorthe

Wine and possibi l i t ies by Banvi l le & Jones Wine Co.

Issue 24 June 2016 – September 2016

WINE AND SUSTAINABILITY

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Features

22 It's Not Easy Being GreenMike Muirhead answers your most frequently asked questions about sustainability in the wine industry.

34 Uncertified Genius: A Conversation with Rick BurgeAustralian Rick Burge, of Burge Family Winemakers, talks about what it means to be organic and why he thinks certification is for the birds.

40 Summer BBQMike Muirhead, Saralyn Mehta, and Bobby Mattola serve up the best summer BBQ and wine pairings.

48 Navigating the New CaliforniaAndrea Eby leads us on a tour of Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley in search of the New California.

contents

Cover: Look for the Green Cork logo to find sustainably produced wines, exclusively at Banville & Jones Wine Co.

www.banvilleandjones.com 5

Columns

10 A Message from Tina Jones

12 Ask a Sommelier

16 Banville & Jones and Company

20 Behind the Label Calzadilla Estate

27 Trending Natural Wines

28 Gary’s Corner Wine, Headaches & Sneezes

30 Chef Profile Heather Porteous, Boulevard Bistro & Pub

38 Gluggy All Tapped Out

46 Banville & Jones Wine & Food Events

54 Banville & Jones Wine Institute

58 Sidebar Just Being Reasonable

60 Culinary Partners

61 Shopping List

62 Top Picks

contents

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6 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

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Cellar Doorthe

Editorial DirectorLisa Muirhead

[email protected]

Editorial BoardTina Jones, Andrea Eby, Sylvia Jansen,

Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead

Graphic DesignRyan Germain | [email protected]

Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro

[email protected]

ContributorsTina Jones, Todd Antonation, Chris Beaudin, Pauline Boldt, Jan de Vlaming, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher,

Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Rebecca Lechman, Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson, Paul Martens, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Bobby Mottola, Mike

Muirhead, Rob Stansel, Zackary Zaharia

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In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in

Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. It is located in a three-storey Tuscan-

inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room.

Banville & Jones Wine Co.1616 St Mary’s Rd.

Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7ph. 204-948-9463

www.banvilleandjones.com

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a messagefrom tina jones

Tina Jones

Phot

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Pau

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TINA’S FAVES

Tablas Creek wines, Paso Robles California: A leader in organic and biodynamic methods of wine production, and makers of fabulous Rhône-style wines.

Tolaini: My own family winery has been working for years to move to organic production—and has now achieved organic certification!

Burge Family Winemakers, Barossa Valley Australia: Rick Burge has said numerous times that he should not be asked why he grows his grapes organically, but that others should be asked why they don’t! His wines have a balance and elegance that make them an easy choice by any standard.

Roses de Jeanne Champagne, France: I have recommended Cedric Bouchard’s Champagnes before. He is committed to growing his grapes completely by biodynamic principles, and he is completely capable of taking that great fruit and making magical Champagnes!

Why consider sustainability?

Unlike almost any other consumer product, wine has the ability to link the end consumer with a particular place on the planet and to a moment in time. Wine is the product of agriculture: by enjoying wine, we are connecting with a growing season, with the people who grew that fruit and those who made the wine. And because we can trace its origins, we ask questions about the approaches these people take in what they do.

And maybe because we can ask tough questions of wine producers, we do. This issue tackles some of these. Mike Muirhead explores different degrees of sustainability; Andrea Eby explores California, a leader in sustainability; Gary Hewitt looks at the root of your wine sensitivities; and Sylvia Jansen queries our own attitudes around these subjects.

At home in wine retail, we have other questions to answer about our own practices. We know that our products are liquid stored in glass, packaged in cardboard. So, for our part we try to support sustainable approaches when we buy wine. We buy efficiently, and explore different forms of packaging with our suppliers. We are working with industry leaders to explore keg systems where possible. In business, we do as much as we reasonably can: providing re-usable cloth bags at less than cost, using shredded paper, re-using cardboard wine boxes, and recycling what we can.

So please enjoy this issue! And if any questions are left unanswered, come into the store, or register for one of our classes, and continue the dialogue.

Salut!

F R E E D O M

35 years of helping your family grow, preserve and manage prosperity.

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My partner and I want to plan a wine trip to Italy. What is the best time of year to go if we want to tour a couple of wineries and taste wines?

—Jerry Stills

Dear Jerry,

Italy is an absolutely beautiful country to visit in every season. However, when travelling to wineries anywhere in the world, harvest time is a winery’s busiest time of year and a season when they would probably prefer not to receive guests. Early/late fall is harvest season. In most parts of Italy, harvest starts as early as late August and as late as October (if you are travelling in the Southern hemisphere, February/March is harvest time). With every staff member at the winery pitching in, they work around the clock to get the grapes picked and back to the winery as fast as possible and in perfect condition.

Travelling to wineries in the spring or summer months is usually a great time of year to see the foliage and grapes growing on the vines. Keep in mind: Europeans consider August summer holiday month, and a lot of wineries are closed. Only the larger, mass-producing wineries with large tasting rooms are apt to be open to the public. Although it sounds odd, winter months are a great time to visit wineries. Tourist season is over, so you have the winery staff (and hotels and roads) all to yourself. The last year’s harvest is settling in the barrels or tanks, and winery staff are delighted to spend quality time with you in the quiet winter months, tasting wines and maybe even snacking on local meats and cheeses.

—Jill Kwiatkoski

Is it better to drink Champagne from a flute or Champagne saucer known as a coupe glass?

—Jeff Parker

Dear Jeff,

This question has been getting a lot of press lately and the answer may surprise you! I suggest you save the coupe for your craft cocktails. Despite its recent surge in popularity, the design was originally intended to help dissipate the bubbles from the wine, as bubbles were seen as coarse and uncouth!

So that leaves the flute, right? Not so fast. The traditional flute may still be the go-to glass for celebrations and less-complex bubbly, but experts have begun suggesting an alternative for premium sparkling wines and Champagnes: treat them like the fine wines they are and serve them in a traditional white wine glass. While the classic flute shape helps to preserve bubbles, its narrow shape also restricts the development of aromas. Serving Champagne in a traditional white wine glass will allow more of the surface area of the wine to be in contact with air and will help release complex aromas and flavours.

Next time you pop a premium cork, pour those bubbles into a white wine glass and put this theory to the test!

—Andrea Eby

How important is vintage when buying a bottle of wine, and how can I find out what is a “good” vintage?

—Vivian Giesbrecht

Dear Vivian,

“Vintage” ranges from irrelevant to highly important. Many wines—Champagne, Sherry and Port—frequently do not state a vintage. This practice may reflect a style, but is not an indication of better or lesser quality. Dry, still wines, however, are almost always vintage-dated. Most everyday wines are meant to be enjoyed within 1–3 years of production, so look for recent vintages and avoid older ones. This applies especially to fruity, fresh white wines—drink the youngest available.

Vintage becomes truly important for premium wines, especially those from cool to temperate wine regions where the weather can differ radically by growing season (e.g., Bordeaux). Wine style and age-worthiness reflect the vintage and often account for big price differences.

Vintage charts for major wine regions are readily available free or by subscription (Google: “free vintage chart”). Each vintage is scored (using stars or a point system), and readiness to drink is commonly noted. But beware: vintage charts are broad-brush pictures! Great wines are made in challenging vintages and poor wines in great vintages—the proof is ultimately in the bottle!

—Gary Hewitt

IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION FOR OUR SOMMELIERS, TEXT US BETWEEN 9 AM AND 9 PM AT 204.400.0499 OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER @BANVILLEJONES.

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Dr. Ines Guedes andDr. R. Bruce McFarlane

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Dr. R. Bruce McFarlane likes to use a golf analogy when describing the advances that have been made in the field of orthodontics.

“If you pull out a steel club and try to knock the cover off the ball, the ball doesn’t go very far,” said Dr. McFarlane. “But if you pull out a titanium club with a nice easy swing, a beautiful follow-through and you’re patient, it just sails.”

“I figured that out in orthodontics but not in golf. I still want to knock the cover off the ball!”

The Village Orthodontics Winnipeg office celebrated its 10th anniversary at the Taylor Avenue location in September. Village Orthodontics also has practices in Mississauga, Toronto, Niagara Falls, Guelph, Oakville, Brampton and Thornhill, Ont.

“On a number of different fronts, orthodontic research has allowed us to understand more about the science of tooth movement and one of the big things that has come out is how lower force levels actually move teeth considerably more efficiently, with less possible damage to teeth and supporting structures and with less pain,” said Dr. McFarlane, who graduated with a Doctorate of Dental Medicine from the University of Manitoba in 1984 and from the University of Western Ontario in 1992 as a Specialist in Orthodontics.

“The braces themselves have gotten a lot smaller, less conspicuous and more comfortable, especially with children where we still use a lot of the metal braces on the outside of teeth,” said Dr. McFarlane. “But we also do a lot of tooth-coloured braces and we have tooth-coloured wires as well.”

With the addition of Dr. Ines Guedes in July, the Village Orthodontics Winnipeg office has two orthodontists plus a staff of 10.

“I think we’re on the cutting edge in orthodontics,” said Dr. Guedes, who received her Doctorate in Dental Surgery at the top of her class in her native Brazil before being accepted into the TMJ disorders and orofacial pain Master of Science program at the University of Alberta in Edmonton where she also taught as clinical instructor in the Dental Faculty and TMD/Orofacial Pain Graduate program. “Also we have a staff that is very focused and friendly and attentive to individual patient needs.”

After her time in Edmonton, Dr. Guedes moved to Winnipeg to join the Orthodontic Graduate Program at the University of Manitoba. Dr. Guedes had braces herself when she was younger and the experience inspired her to help both young and adult patients to achieve their dream smiles.

“Braces improved my smile and gave me confidence,” she said. “It was life changing and I wanted to pass that on to (her patients).”

As well as the traditional metal and porcelain braces, Village Orthodontics offers lingual or on-the-tongue-side braces and clear Invisalign® removable aligners which offer dental correction without the ‘tin grin’ stigma.

“We find that (they are popular) especially with adult patients who want to get straight teeth but don’t want to advertise to the world what they’re up to. They’re certainly good for that,” Dr. McFarlane said.

“There’s a lot less stigma attached to (having braces) than when I was a kid for sure.”

Village Orthodontics boasts all of the latest new technologies and innovations. The practice uses optical scanners to create digital images and x-rays which are a lot better for the patient in terms of radiation and exposure.

They also utilize AcceleDent—a simple-to-use hands-free device designed for faster orthodontic treatment which sends vibrations through the bone for 20 minutes a day—as well as Propel, a micro-invasive option able to accelerate orthodontics by stimulating more cellular activity in the bone thus speeding up the movement of teeth.

It’s all about making the process faster and more comfortable.

“We strive to make it a lot of fun around here,” he said. “Nowadays, orthodontics has become less threatening and less painful. We celebrate the final results every day with our patients.”

There’s a lot less stigma attached to (having braces) than when I was a kid for sure.

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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1. Jason Cross, Pedro Chagas, Mike Jones, Greg Fiorentino, Louie Tolaini, John Garcea, winners of a Tolaini Estates vertical tasting at the HSC Foundation Celebrity Human Race; 2. Anastasia Reimer, Jennifer Goreski, and Shirley Martens at the U.N. Luggage annual purse event; 3. Greg Burch, Curt Campbell, Linda Burch, Sarah Hanks-Campbell, Tolaini Estates vertical tasting event; 4. Todd Antonation, Pierre-Charles and Marie-Pierre Dartier of Cailleteau Bergeron, and Gary Hewitt; 5. (clockwise) Tina Jones, Shelly Tolaini, Maria Fiorentino, Mabel Garcea, Correna Bayrak, Lucy Chagas, Tolaini Estates vertical tasting event; 6. Andrea Eby, Kim Antonation of Univins, Josep Maria Pujol-Busquets of Alta Alella Privat, Matt Benger, Rob Stansel, and Jill Kwiatkoski.


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Friends of Banville & Jones Wine Co. 7. Ellen Kroeker, Jesse Oberman, Rick Watkins, Anna Everett taste Tenuta Santa Caterina wines at Smith Restaurant; 8. Tyler Harlton of TH Wines and Sommelier Ken Kasper, Summerland, BC; 9. Tina Jones and the staff of Banville & Jones wish Tom Court all the best in his retirement; 10. Yves Gras of Santa Duc, France; 11. Sébastien Jaume of Alain Jaume and Don Krsinar of Pion Wines show Gary Hewitt the vineyards in Chateauneuf-du-Pape; 12. Smith Restaurant hosts winemaker Giulia Alleva from Tenuta Santa Caterina; 13. Nicolas and Jeanne-Claire Boiron of Bosquet des Papes (France) with Gary Hewitt and Mike Muirhead.

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When Calzadilla Estate family member Alberto Escalona visited Winnipeg last year, he recognized similarities between his Spanish estate and our corner of his market: they are both gems in the middle of vast, seeming “nothingness.” The estate boasts its own “DO Pago” designation, one of only about 15 in Spain. DO Pago is a unique category of exceptionally high-quality, single-estate wines granted their own appellation.

In 1980, the family established Pago Calzadilla, focusing on native Spanish varieties Tempranillo and Garnacha, as well as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. After an enormous 10-year investment of time and energy, Calzadilla released their first wines. Organic methods and hand treatment in vineyard and winery are their signatures.

The estate has 26 hectares, of which 20 are under limited production. The remaining 6 hectares are devoted to lands that support a healthy level of biodiversity. The vineyards also benefit from mists and mild winds that moderate what is otherwise a region of extremes in the Río Mayor Valley of central Spain.

When Alberto explained to us that they treat their grapes with “loving care,” he meant it: grapes are harvested entirely by hand in small 15-kg boxes to ensure that the weight of the fruit does not damage the harvest before it arrives in the winery. At the winery, grape bunches are carefully selected and cooled. Crushing and moving fruit, must, and wines through production are done entirely by gravity, without using pumping systems—a rare practice.

The results of the thoughtful, organic production are remarkable. Pago Calzadilla wines are all rare gems.

Calzadilla 2009 Opta (Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah) $27.99

With intense dark fruits and spices, layered with a freshness of herbal tones and balanced oak, Opta is full, polished and stylish. From tapas to vegetable stew, this is a wine that delivers.

Calzadilla 2009 Calzadilla Classic (Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Syrah) $37.99

The Classic brings quality parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah into the blend, for a ripe, dark red, nuanced with balsamic notes, sweet tobacco, and vanilla. While the wine can evolve in the cellar, it is also delicious now.

Calzadilla 2008 Calzadilla Allegro (Syrah) $37.99

The Allegro Syrah is one of those beautiful examples of warm-climate fruit (ripe, dark fruit, and exotic sweet spice character) and cooling vineyard influences (black pepper notes and balanced acidity). The wine finishes with refreshing finesse.

Calzadilla 2007 Gran Calzadilla (Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon) $84.99

The oldest parcels of Tempranillo vines and the best Cabernet Sauvignon give fruit for the flagship Gran Calzadilla. The wine is matured for 18 months in barrique and at least three years in bottle before release. With tremendous complexity, density, amazing elegance, and a beautiful finish, this is a wine that will raise a steak dinner or cheese board to an art form.


behind the label: Calzadilla EstateBy Sylvia Jansen, CSW, D-WSET, Sommelier

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DADor

GrAD?

Every day, we have customers asking questions about our sustainable wine options. Some want simply to know where our organic wines are kept; some are curious about the link between how a wine is produced and how it affects their health. Whatever your reasons for seeking out sustainably produced wine—be they ethical, health, or environmental—the best way to find the right wine for your needs is to arm yourself with knowledge. We wish to answer the most frequently asked questions about wine and sustainability, and introduce you to our GREEN CORK logo, which will help you find the sustainable wines you are looking for in our store.

What falls under the category “sustainable wine”?

There is so much in that one word: sustainable. When we talk about sustainably produced wine, we break it down into two categories of sustainability: environmental and social. The first is production from an environmentally sustainable perspective. Under this category, we place: Certified Organic, farmed organically, biodynamic, Lodi Rules (California), sustainable winemaking practices, and carbon neutral. Fairtrade (certified) and Lodi Rules (California) fall under social sustainability, which looks after human rights, fair compensation, and labour practices.


Solar panels line the vineyard rows at Lange Twins Family Winery and Vineyards in Lodi, California (photo courtesy of Lange Twins)

it’s not easy bein’ greenBy Mike Muirhead, CMS, Sommelier

Why don’t all producers who make their wines organically become Certified Organic?

Every wine-producing country has an independent body that sets the standards for organic certification, a process that generally takes three years. The winery is audited every year to make sure that producers are within the stated “organic” guidelines. Even after certification, the winery needs to re-certify every year, and if they do not meet certification standards one year, they must start the three-year certification process over again.

If you live in a climate that is not optimal for organic growing, then you may be forced to spray one or two years out of 10 to save your crop. If you knew that there is a good chance that every decade you will have to break your certification to save that year’s harvest, would you pay for a three-year certification process? Many producers farm using organic practices but either cannot be bothered or cannot bear the cost of becoming certified. We categorize these wines “farmed organically.”

Why should I believe that a wine is organic if it isn’t certified?

Because of our close relationship with our producers, we are lucky to know the people and vineyards behind the wine. Many seasoned growers farm with the traditional knowledge of how their family vineyards overcome natural adversity, with the goal of being as organic as possible. Most good winemakers realize that good grapes make the best wines, and those grapes come from farming principles that respect the soil and the environment. We acknowledge that farming organically is the best outcome, but we have visited enough sustainable vineyards to know that, while many factors account for whether a winery might certify, that official process is not the only path to producing a clean, organically grown wine.

I get headaches from wine. Will drinking an organic wine help?

Many people believe that drinking organic wine will minimize headaches, as they have been told that there is less sulfur in the production. Unfortunately, this theory doesn’t really bear out scientifically: making wine organically does not eliminate the addition of sulphur to wines, though it does limit it in some countries. And in fact, very few people are actually allergic to sulfur. Gary’s Corner (page 28) gives a great explanation of what could be causing those reactions to different wines—and it doesn’t have anything to do with being organic. Believe me, we wish the answer was that simple!

I want to buy organic wine, but I am on a budget. Can I find an organic wine under $15?

It can be difficult to balance our desire to be “green” with the realities of our budget. Like organic fruits and vegetables at the market, wine that is organically produced (and certified) costs more. The reason comes down to the realities of agriculture: there is more risk growing without chemical support; there is less production without fertilizers; and organic farming techniques are a lot more labour-intensive. In addition, the certification process itself is expensive and takes time. There certainly are Certified Organic wines in the world that cost under $15—but our first rule about buying wine is that it needs to taste good.

If you are on a budget and want a sustainable option that tastes great, we can find you wine producers making tasty, sustainably produced wine at a great price.

Why do some regions seem to have a lot of organic producers, while others do not?

To answer your question, let’s go to France: On a recent trip through the Rhône valley, we were surprised at how many Chateauneuf-du-Pape producers were Certified Organic. When asked why, most said it was because farming organically is easy to do and the customers liked the certification. Just two hours away in Northern Rhône, we found few who were certified. The region is difficult to farm due to terraced 40-degree slopes, has more moisture problems, and—as one producer alluded—the wines would triple in cost if they tried to keep their certification updated. They would price themselves right out of the market. Simply put, viticultural areas are diverse and organic farming is just easier in some locations than in others.

Biodynamic practices sound a little hokey. Where did these rules come from and is there any science backing them up?

Biodynamic practices were first developed in the 1920s by educator and social activist Dr. Rudolf Steiner. According to the Biodynamic Association, “Biodynamics is a holistic, ecological, and ethical approach to farming, gardening, food and nutrition.” It follows organic farming principles, but with a few extra layers, including farm biodiversity, economic sustainability, and subtle influences of the “wider cosmos.” These more cosmic influences include following moon cycles for vineyard work and scheduling special vineyard preparation on solstices to bring balance back to the soil. While studies have shown that biodynamic practices result in an increase of nitrogen and phosphorus—the building blocks of healthy soil—when compared to simple organic soil, most other observations are anecdotal.

Is there any sort of certification I should look for in terms of social sustainability/equity (like Fairtrade)?

It takes a lot of manual work to produce a bottle of wine. At harvest, dozens of pickers harvest the grapes as quickly as possible. Countries like Canada have rules for minimum pay and working standards, but in some countries, pickers can’t even make a living wage. The most reliable certification for social equity is the Fairtrade International designation, where companies are audited to be sure they conform to modern working standards. Currently, there are only Fairtrade certified wine producer organizations in South Africa, Chile, and Argentina. Other regions have progressive ways of ensuring both social and environmental impacts are positive—or the least intrusive. For example, Lodi Rules in California are unique in that they take into account sustainable and ethical practices in both the physical environment and in social issues like workers’ health and safety.

How can I find organic (or sustainable) wines in your store?

Because we get a lot of questions about organic wines, we have an organic section in the store. These wines are Certified Organic and located beside Best Bets; however, as we explore this topic throughout this issue, you will learn that Certified Organic is just one category of sustainably produced wine. With the launch of this issue of The Cellar Door, we are also launching our new GREEN CORK logo, which will be on all of the products that are sustainable, organically farmed, Certified Organic, biodynamic, Fairtrade, carbon neutral, and Lodi Rules, among others.


Fairtrade-certified Bosman Family Vineyards in South Africa has initiated several social equity projects for the families living on their estates, including the Bovlei Community Preschool. (Photo courtesy of Bosman Family Vineyards)

WHAT IS IT? ESSENTIALS WE SUGGEST:

CERTIFIED ORGANIC

Organic practices shun industrially synthesized herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers, fungicides, and genetically modified organisms. Certification is by a non-governmental organization, which is, in turn, certified by government standards.

• Feeding the soil, not the plant• Organic preparations (fertilizers, sprays, etc) must

also be certified• Minimal intervention in winery*• Requires inspections, monitoring, samples,

registration of land• Requires a three-year conversion period before

certification (and a three-year re-certification if any chemical residues are found)

Angove 2013 Organic Shiraz/Cabernet South Australia ($19.99)

FARMED ORGANICALLY

Our designation of “farmed organically” means that wineries follow all of the practices laid out for organic certification, but opt out of the certification process.

• Feeding the soil, not the plant• Use of organic preparations only (fertilizers, sprays,

etc)• Minimal intervention in winery*

Tenuta Sette Cieli 2013 Yantra Tuscany, Italy ($27.99)

BIODYNAMIC An environmental approach that nurtures the natural health of vineyards, and seeks long-term balance with people and the planet.

Biodynamics adds to organic principles by: • Approaching the vineyard as a self-sustaining

entity: soil, plants, plant organisms, insects, animals and the environment above the vine are in balance and in good health

• Using herb- and mineral-based preparations to strengthen vineyard health

• Timing key vineyard work (e.g., pruning, ploughing, harvest) to harness formative forces, especially lunar rhythms

Jonc-Blanc 2013 Les Sens du Fruit Bergerac, France ($22.99)

SUSTAINABLE Sustainability is an approach that aims for the long-term viability of land; for many producers it also aims for viability, fairness, and openness with people as well as cultivation in harmony with the environment.

• Using organic treatments• Maintaining crop diversity and biodiversity • Using chemical interventions only when absolutely

necessary • Corporate transparency• Social responsibility towards workers and

community

Ventisquero 2015 Yali Wild Swan Sauvignon Blanc, Central Valley, Chile ($11.99)

CARBON NEUTRAL

Wineries aim to neutralize carbon emissions through the winemaking process, from production to shipping.

• Carbon offsets through tree planting• Protecting wetlands and building bird sanctuaries• Reducing shipping weight

Stratus 2012 Wildass Red Blend Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada ($26.99)

LODI RULES Lodi Rules is a third-party certification in California that includes 101 farming practice standards relating to business, ecosystem, soil, water, pest management, and human rights

• Enhancing biodiversity• Focusing on water and air quality• Prioritizing soil health• Caring for employee and community well-being

Lange Twins 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, California ($19.99)

FAIRTRADE Many small wine growers are struggling to compete with large wine plantations in developing countries that hire workers who are not protected from labour abuses.

Fairtrade certification (currently available in South Africa, Chile, and Argentina) helps farmers cover the cost of production and helps grape growers to maintain ownership of their farms in the face of large business competitors.

• Fairtrade Minimum Price aims to cover costs of sustainable production .

• Fairtrade Premium is an additional sum that producers can invest in development

• Payment in advance is available when producers ask for it.

• Producers sign contracts so they can plan long term and use sustainable practices.

Bosman 2014 De Bos 47 Varietal Rosé, Walker Bay, South Africa ($21.99)

* Regulations differ from country to country. A wine may be certified for “organic grapes” or for “organic wine.” For example, in the European Union, “Organic wine” refers to certified organic viticulture (organic grapes); additions of sulphites are allowed in the winery (most are at least 25% to 35% lower than conventional wines). In Canada, “Organic Wine” means certified organic viticulture (organic grapes); and no added sulphites in winemaking.


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The best conversations among wine nerds often begin with a tasting note. And when someone describes a wine as looking “so hazy, it was like someone dropped a bucket of sand into it,” that's as good an opening salvo as any.

Jesse Oberman was reminiscing about one of those special bottles: not so much the “best wine you’ve ever tasted” kind of bottle, but the kind of bottle that changes how you think about wine. In this case, a wine raised on the slopes of Mount Etna, tended minimally, fermented naturally, and bottled without the modern fanfare of filtration, fining, and sulfur additions. A natural wine.

More of these bottles will be hitting our shelves in the near future, thanks in part to the efforts of Élevage Selections, the brainchild of Jesse and his good friend Taylor Archibald, local boys with deep roots in the city’s culinary scene and a passion for good wine. With a growing portfolio of wines that reflect this minimalist approach, their excursion into the wine trade was a kind of happy accident.

Intent on getting some hands-on experience in the vineyard and in the cellar, Jesse journeyed to Germany in 2015, and soon found himself in the vineyards of longtime friend of Banville & Jones, Rainer Lingenfelder of Lingenfelder Estate in the Pfalz. Rainer’s insistence that “wine is not made, it is farmed” resonated with Jesse’s emerging interest in natural

wine: wine grown with minimal intervention and fermented with minimal interference. From Berlin to Paris to Barcelona, he found bottle after bottle of this often hazy, sometimes spritzy, always interesting stuff.

Back in Winnipeg, Taylor, tired of the palate-assaulting fruit and oak bombs so often encountered in our market, happily joined in the tasting. The dozen bottles that survived the journey home were soon empty. Still thirsty, they scoured Winnipeg’s shelves, with little luck. Winnipeg needed more natural wine, they decided. Élevage was born.

“We want to work with farmers—people who refer to themselves as grape growers—not winemakers,” said Jesse.

Noting that yeast selection is one of the most “controlled” aspects of modern winemaking, Jesse explained that what sets the naturalists apart is their willingness to accept the realities of vintage and bottle variation, and their insistence that such variation isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

“You plant a single clone; you irrigate; you use sulfur throughout the whole process; you use carefully selected yeast. That’s a controlled wine, a made wine, all the way from its birth to its bottling.”

The natural approach to wine, by contrast, is a process of “letting the grapes do what they will,” so-to-speak: guiding, but not controlling the fermentation. In fact, the wild yeast that

lives in the vineyard and on the grapes is not only essential to the fermentation, it is considered by naturalists to be a fundamental aspect of terroir. The wine has its own path; the winegrower is merely a curator. These are the wines that Élevage have sought out. Jesse explains: “What matters most to us is finding expressive wines; wines that are expressive of terroir.”

Jesse and Taylor are working hard to bring their best natural wine finds to the Manitoba market. From France, Banville & Jones carries a Domaine Le Roc Folle Noir red blend, and three from Jean Bourdy: Cremant, Rouge and Blanc. Hailing out of Spain, we have a Pinot Noir and a red blend from Escoda-Sanahuja.

Natural wine is changing how we taste, and how we talk about what we taste. Thankfully for Winnipeg’s wine community, Élevage is now a part of that growing conversation.

Natural Wines

trending By Rob Stansel, Sommelier

Jesse Oberman and Taylor Archibald of Élevage Selections

WILD AT HEART

In their devotion to—and respect for—the spontaneity of yeast, the naturalists are developing an ethos—and an ethics—of drink akin to some in the craft beer community who, willing also to relinquish control of their process, are experimenting with the production of “wild” ales. Eschewing inoculation with traditional brewers’ yeast and mimicking many of Belgium’s most famous and funky beer styles, these mavericks are taking a hands-off approach to fermentation, giving free rein to the yeast and bacteria commonly found in—you guessed it—barrels that once held wine. Unsurprisingly, naturalists have a particular fondness for these barrel-raised “sours.”

WINE, HEADACHES & SNEEZESSome people are sensitive to wine; even more people think they are. Mere mention of a suspect ingredient can cause a reaction. It is a serious matter for those who are truly sensitive, but for those with unfounded fear, it simply detracts from wine’s enjoyment.

Wine contains many naturally occurring and some added chemical compounds, a few of which can give sensitive wine drinkers headaches or what they describe as “allergic” reactions. A true wine allergy is extremely rare. Sensitivity to or intolerance of wine is more common and may result in allergy-like symptoms such as a headache, sneezing, wheezing, flushing, and runny nose.

A line-up of the usual suspects thought to interfere with our enjoyment of wine includes alcohol, sulfites, and histamine.

Alcohol is the biggest problem. Alcohol allergies are extraordinarily rare, but it can exacerbate allergic reactions to other foods. More commonly, alcohol intolerance due to a lack of efficient enzymes for alcohol metabolism can cause face flushing and elevated pulse rate from even small amounts of alcohol.

Major problems arise with the overconsumption of alcohol. Elevated blood levels of alcohol and metabolic products such as acetaldehyde easily cross into brain tissues where they can induce frontal lobe headaches. Loss of inhibitions, fine motor control,

and balance are other well-known effects of overindulgence. The effects of alcohol can be minimized by drinking less, taking food with wine, consuming an equal quantity of water, and extending consumption over a longer period of time.

Sulfites are preservatives added to foods to inhibit microbial spoilage and to limit the effects of oxidation. Currently, more than 99 per cent of commercial wines have added sulfites. Wines with zero sulfites are extremely rare because low levels of sulfite are produced naturally during alcoholic fermentation by yeast.

Sulfite levels in wine are generally quite low and have been declining in recent years. However, the style of wine matters. In general, dry red wines require less protection by sulfites because they have little residual sugar and are naturally protected from oxidation by phenols such as tannins and pigments. Dry white wines often require slightly higher sulfite additions because they have lower concentrations of phenols. Sweet and sparkling wines have higher sugar levels and the greatest need for sulfites. The “contains sulfites” label warns of levels greater than 10 mg/litre (essentially all wines), an amount well below the threshold of 45 mg/litre that commonly triggers a reaction in sulfite-sensitive drinkers.

Organic wines and wines produced from organically grown grapes must meet lower limits and may contain lower sulfite levels. However, producers that start with healthy grapes, practice strict hygiene, and judiciously time sulfite additions also make wines with lower sulfite levels.

If you are sensitive to high-sulfite foods such as dried fruits (apricots, raisins) and fruit juices, you may be sensitive to the much lower levels of most wines.

Histamine is manufactured by our bodies, and we ingest it with food. By far, most people tolerate the histamine levels of a normal diet, but it can trigger allergy-like symptoms in a few.

Red wines in particular have a reputation for histamine, but levels are generally much lower than in high-histamine foods like fermented soy products, cured meats, many cheeses, and tuna. Drinking wine in combination with high-histamine foods could exceed the body’s capacity to metabolize histamine, but any subsequent reaction cannot be attributed to wine alone. In fact, emerging evidence suggests that there is no connection between ingested histamine and wine intolerance for healthy individuals. Instead, other substances release histamine stored in our bodies to trigger an inflammatory response. Histamine-releasing substances may include phenols, especially the tannins of strong red wines, and, perhaps most crucially, acetaldehyde, a product of alcohol metabolism.

If you think that you might have a wine sensitivity or intolerance, try to identify the trigger by keeping track of the wines you drink and the circumstances of its consumption. Patterns may appear that direct your attention to one of the usual suspects. Then you can make informed requests for wines based on your observations. Regardless of specific triggers, folk wisdom may offer the best advice: moderate consumption is the key.

gary’s cornerBy Gary Hewitt, D-WSET, CWE, FWS, SommelierPh

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Leading the industry with sustainability

Viña Errazuriz is one of the first Chilean wineries to earn the Sustainability Certification granted by Wines of Chile in 2012. In 2010 we inaugurated our fully sustainable winery, and today we find ourselves constantly reviewing and improving our practices, always on

the lookout for new and innovative ways to farm sustainably.


chef profileHeather Porteous Boulevard Bistro & Pub Photos by Ian McCausland

Heather Porteous started early. After working in restaurants as a teen, she headed to the Red River Culinary Arts program after graduation. Heather was working at the Gimli Resort and Conference Centre when she and owner Darcy Bruneau struck up a partnership that would become the Boulevard Bistro & Pub. Starting as a 35-seat restaurant, the location expanded into the space next door, creating a spacious pub area with a patio and separate dining room. Heather gained some notoriety when she appeared on Chopped Canada in June 2015, where she made it to the dessert round—further than any other Manitoba chef. In addition to thriving in their first year at Boulevard, Heather has been on the Canadian National Skydiving Team for the past 5 years. She will be competing with her eight-way relative work team at Worlds (her third World competition) in Chicago later this year.

The secret ingredient in your fridge:Fat, as in cream and butter. I don't cook low fat because I like that big flavour.

If you weren’t a chef?I took a few years off of work in the kitchen, went back to school and got a degree in biopharmaceutics. Hated it, and came back to the kitchen. If I were to be anything besides a chef at this point, it would be an interior designer. I decorated everything in Boulevard, from the brick to the lighting. The photographs on the walls were all taken by either me or Darcy.

Favourite childhood meal: Spaghetti Bolognese

Your cooking inspiration:My mom is an amazing cook. She is the type of cook that, every single day, she’s got her cookbooks out. I don’t know if she has even repeated many dishes she served in our house.

Favourite travel destination:I travel a lot with my skydiving team—we are travelling to competitions every two months. I don’t necessarily travel with the specific intention of eating the food of that place. I travel to interesting places, and inevitably there will be food. The last big trip I took was to Rwanda and Uganda. I ate so many plantains, I don’t think I ever want to eat them again.

Favourite current dish on menu:We just brought back the cream cheese and pecan stuffed chicken breast with a bourbon honey cream sauce. Everyone who has tried it loves it.

Favourite wine:I like blended drinks with umbrellas, like our white wine peach sangria in the summer time.

Boulevard Bistro & Pub is located at 3670 Roblin Blvd.

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By Mike Muirhead, CMS, Sommelier

UNCERTIFIED GENIUS:a conversation with Rick Burge

Burge Family Winemakers is located in the Barossa Valley, Australia. It is internationally acclaimed—named one of the world’s greatest wine estates in 2005 by Robert Parker—and is also a local favourite, for the quality of the wines and the incredible person behind them. Winemaker Rick Burge has trekked to Winnipeg three times (he’s a big fan of the Bombers), and we are always charmed by his larger-than-life love for music, family, food, and wine. He has farmed his vineyards using organic and biodynamic practices since 2004. He is very passionate about farming organically—and equally passionate about the reasons why he refuses to pursue organic certification.

Mike Muirhead (MM) Has Burge Family Winemakers always been organic, or did you convert it to organic?

Rick Burge (RB) I went to a biodynamic conference with Nicolas Joly, my priest of biodynamic, in 2004. That was the first biodynamic conference ever in Australia, and that is when a lot of guys changed over. The conference was in November, and I haven’t used a chemical since—about 12 years now. I am organic and “à la carte” biodynamic. Because there is only one of me, I find that I just don’t have the resources to do the cow horn and all that stuff. I believe that you can do a hell of a lot

to help yourself without going whole hog. A friend of mine who is biodynamic does everything biodynamic, except he doesn’t spray silica because we have enough sunshine in Australia. He says: “I don’t do it because we would be overcooking the egg.” Silica is more for solar optimization in Europe, so there is no reason to use it in Australia—but if we don’t, we can’t “certify” biodynamic.

I’m organic in that I use no chemicals. If residual ends up in the dirt, then it’s messing up your fungi and your bacteria that break down humus that releases the amino—the nutrients for the vine. If you look at the make-up of the roots, you’ve got all this fungi and bacteria right next to your feeder roots. The bacteria break down for their own use, but the byproduct is nitrogen, to which the vine says: “Thank you very much.” Vines love nitrogen. If you have soil with heavy residues, the bacteria are affected. I know that’s a bit contentious, and some people say, “No, no, that has no effect”—but it has to. For example, in years like 2007, which was an amazingly dry year, our vines had leaves right up to mid-June, and I’m convinced that organic farming enabled those vines to stay healthy and keep on photosynthesizing. The vine was healthy, and a healthy vine is a strong vine.

GLOSSARYCow Horn: In biodynamic practices, cow horns are filled each fall with different "treatments" and put into various holes in the vineyard to restore balance and nutrients to the soil.

Downy Mildew: A mildew caused by excess moisture in the vineyards.

Dry Farming: Farming vineyards without irrigation in areas of limited rain fall (typically less than 20 inches).

Humus: Dark, organic material forms in soil when plant and animal matter decay

Odium (Powdery Mildew): A fungal disease that causes white powdery spots on the leaves and reduces crop yields.

Photosynthesis: A process used by plants and other organisms to convert light energy into chemical energy that can be later released to fuel the organisms' activities

Tartaric PMS: Tartaric acid is found naturally in grapes and citrus. Potassium metabisulfite (PMS) is the common sulfur compound used in winemaking.

Rick Burge in his Olive Hill Vineyard, Barossa Valley, Australia (photo courtesy Burge Family Winemakers)

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In terms of irrigation, just over a third of our property is dry farmed, the rest is supplementary irrigated, depending on the year. Some years, especially 2011, we don’t use any water at all. This has been a very dry year in the valley, so we used a little bit of water. Everything is very green in the valley, and those leaves will stay on for another couple of months, photosynthesizing, putting starch reserves in the trunk. We handpick, so we’ve kept our leaves—they haven’t been smashed off by a machine harvester. Some of our neighbours lose their leaves a couple of weeks after harvest. Vineyards that are machine-harvested probably were overcropped for the season—those vines look very ill; they are turning colour and dropping their leaves. And then the vines will sit out in the April and May sunshine, just doing nothing. They just sit there dormant, whereas ours are still photosynthesizing—which is how they store chemical energy for the next harvest. We’re always thinking about next year.

MM You are one of the only people I know who knows every vine in his vineyard—from the way you speak of them, I wouldn’t be surprised to find out you have named each of them. How long did it take for you to see a difference when you stopped using chemicals?

RB It’s hard to put a time lapse on it. If you took a shot of the vineyards every month, and looked over 10 years, you would probably see a difference. I think I picked it up from the smell of the dirt. I think it would have been about 4 or 5 years later, I noticed that the soil smelled different. It smelled like it used to when I was a young kid. I also noticed in the bounce-back from 2007—the way the vines handle drought. I didn’t have to use so much water. I think it’s about getting rid of chemicals in the soil. They are not meant to be there. I believe a weak vine can get hit with mildew. If you have no chemical interference, the vine is stronger. I think it probably has a natural resilience that a vine that is struggling doesn’t.

MM Can you imagine a situation so dire that you would use some sort of chemical on your vineyards—just to save the crop?

RB Look, if I were, odium is the worst scenario, and I would probably go to a local cheese factory if I could and I would get whey or I would just buy skim milk and spray milk on them. If I was to get downy mildew, I would probably use a tartaric PMS mixture [potassium metabisulfite] if I had to. I’ve got those up my sleeve. They are both natural, no residues. Tartaric is a natural grape acid and PMS, well, I use sulfur anyway. Sulfur’s not the

big bad bogeyman that everyone makes it out. The body needs sulfur, and we are used to sulfur in preserved foods. It’s just one shot to knock the spores, and there is no residual anyway because it oxidizes.

But you know, if worse came to worse, you just write off that year. We are in a very advantageous grape-growing region. That’s why we are 180 years old, because the Barossa has been a very, very favourable grape-growing region. Every now and again, though, you’re going to strike out.

We’re lucky: we’re not like a cereal farm, because our raw material can be converted into a preserved material (wine!) and if it’s half good, it actually gets better and better, and increases in value. So, diligent wineries always have reserves. The best example of this is the Champagnoises. They need it obviously for blending, but you would never go to a top Champagne house and they’ve only got this year’s and last year’s wine. They wait right off until the season’s end and then if they had a good season, they will sell off any surplus. We’re lucky that we can store it in either barrel or tank. Grape growers can’t—they have to sell it when it hits a certain maturity. If they have a bad year, they get hit really hard.

MM One year when we received our shipment of your wines, you were worried about the labels using the word “organic.” Your labels currently don’t say that you are organic, but you farm that way. What’s the reason behind that?

RB 2009 was a very dry year. I put on the wine label that, through our organic growing regime in the vineyard, we felt we had nullified the effects of the drought. That one word “organic”—even though it was “small-o” organic, no capitals, no larger type—upset the authorities here. And that’s why it had to be stickered over, because

apparently the minute you say “organic,” it has to be certified. Organic growing now is becoming a bit of a contemporary marketing tool. It’s not about that. It’s about sustainability. You concentrate better if you don’t have all those shortcuts and silver bullets. You’re more focused. It’s like swimming in the big ocean without a life jacket on. You have to take care of yourself because you have no buoyancy. Organic growing is a bit like that. There’s no such thing as a lazy organic grower.

MM So why not certify then? Because you are organic.

RB It’s stubbornness on my part, Mike. I’m 25% Scottish and I resent having to pay four or five thousand dollars so that I can say that I haven’t used any chemicals in the vineyard. I find it just stupid. I find it obscene. They justify it by saying, “It costs money to maintain organic certification auditing.” But I use nothing—I gotta pay five grand to tell you? I want people to taste my wines, and then if I want to tell them, I can spell it out further. I say: no weedicides, fungicides, insecticides or synthetic fertilizers are used in our vineyards. Full stop.

Meanwhile, the people that put chemicals on their vineyards have to wear full bodysuits if they don’t have a full cab on their tractor, and are applying chemicals that have withholding periods of four weeks. What about all the natural stuff? What about the bees? What about the birds? We are in a living atmosphere with lots of other things. We have so many lizards in our vineyards. This year, we came across four or five birds’ nests with little eggs and little birds. That makes me feel extremely happy because there are no chemicals. I get a huge kick. What about the things you can’t see—the worms and the microbes? We share this planet. We have hawks that go for the mice in the stubble. The hawks tend to frighten off the starlings, that can eat the berries. I say: let nature work for you.


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All Tapped Out

gluggy By Mike Muirhead, CMS, Sommelier

A trend has been moving our way. It started in close proximity to wine regions, where easy accessibility to wine makes logistics simpler. Then, as technology has improved, the wines have travelled greater distances—and now, wine on tap is arriving in Winnipeg.

We started doing research for wine on tap years ago as a way to offer wine in an alternative format. This format had many upsides. First, the elimination of glass packaging is a double win for the environment: fewer fossil fuels are burned in transporting lighter packaging and refillable or recyclable kegs mean less packaging in our landfills. In addition, restaurants and bars can improve their wines by the glass because wines on tap mean a consistent pour, consistently proper service temperature, and, most importantly, the first glass of wine tastes as good as the last glass without oxidization or spoilage. Consistent quality for the customer and less waste for the purveyor: everybody wins.

The first option available to us was the same kegs we associate with beer kegs. While the stainless steel of the kegs make them ideal for storing wine, their transportation costs make it impossible on a boutique scale. It is just under 2,000 km to our nearest wineries and those kegs need to get here and back again to complete the cycle—the requirement for repeated transportation over that distance is not exactly a “sustainable” option. In addition, though these types of kegs work well in high-volume environments, quality quickly deteriorates if the wine sits too long and the lines aren’t cleaned.

Next on the block were KeyKegs—a brilliant idea of fully recyclable kegs. KeyKegs store food-grade bags (much like your classic bag-in-box wines) within a plastic and cardboard “keg” that can be broken down after use and fully recycled, thus eliminating return logistics, cleaning, and keg deposits. KeyKegs are now being used by wineries all over the world, with quite

a bit of success. These cover almost all of the criteria for great wine dispensing, with the one holdout of temperature control. KeyKegs are mostly showing up in pubs and casual eateries where the whites are kept in the beer fridge (too cold) and the reds kept out at room temperature (which, in any restaurant I have been in, is too warm). The lines from the keg to the taps tend to be quite long too, meaning that wine is wasted when the restaurants change the keg.

The latest system that is coming online across North America is the Torr Keg system. This system eliminates the plastics found in the KeyKeg system and instead requires the one-time purchase of a stainless steel Torr Keg and dispenser that remains on site. Bags of wine are then shipped from the winery as needed. The Torr Keg dispensing unit has dual climate-controlled cabinets directly below the taps to minimize the amount of wine in the lines and keep the temperatures consistent. When I tried a glass of Canadian Gewürztraminer that had been on keg for eight months, it tasted like a bottle had been freshly cracked.

This year, Joey and Earls are rolling out Torr Kegs across Canada, arriving in Winnipeg this fall. As a consumer, this means fresh wine served at the correct temperature all the time. Good news for lovers of fresh wine—and good news for the environment!

Wines on tap (photo courtesy of Torr Industries)

Sustainable Dining at the Heart of It All

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BRUTBRUTBRUT

By Mike Muirhead, Saralyn Mehta and Bobby Mottola Photos by Ian McCausland

Summer BBQ


Summer food is best when it is quick, easy, and fresh. For our summer BBQ, Mike breaks out a one-pot favourite that is perfect for the BBQ or oven: chicken with Brussels sprouts, bacon and mushrooms. Mike’s wife, Maureen, finishes off the meal with the best citrusy, garlicky kale Caesar salad you will have this summer. Saralyn brings us a deceptively easy cedar plank salmon with green beans. Our BBQ guest, Bobby Mottola, owner of hotspots Merchant Kitchen and Pizzeria Gusto, shows us how to

do a BBQ grilled pizza right, with the perfect balance of sweet, savoury, salty and fresh herbs: peach, prosciutto and Cambozola pizza with balsamic reduction.

We love supporting local businesses, and have given you suggestions (in bold) about where to source local ingredients. For our photoshoots, we always make a stop at Vic’s Fruit Market, where you can get locally grown herbs and veggies all year round.

10 bone-in chicken thighs4 pieces of Rich Lane Farms thick cut bacon cut into 1/2-inch pieces2 lbs Loveday white or crimini mushrooms, halved16 Brussels sprouts, halved6 large cloves of garlic, smashed and skinned5 sprigs of thyme2 tbsp fresh oregano leaves, chopped3 tbsp olive oil6 oz tomato paste salt and pepper

Preheat BBQ to 400°F. Place all ingredients in a large, shallow roasting pan, toss with olive oil, and place over a low burner. Transfer between direct and indirect heat to brown bacon and chicken. Stir with a spatula every 15 minutes. Cook for 45 minutes or until chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165°F. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with additional thyme sprigs and serve family style.

For the Kale Caesar Salad:2 tbsp + 1.3 cup olive oil, divided 4 cloves garlic; 3 minced, 1 smashed1 tsp hot chili flakes2 slices Sleepy Owl Bread day-old sour dough bread, cubed½ cup grated parmesan1 tbsp Dijon mustard1 small lemon, juice and rind2 to 3 anchovy fillets½ tsp Worcestershire sauce1 large bunch of kale, tough stems removed, cut into thin ribbons shaved parmesan to garnish salt and pepper

Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté 1 clove of smashed garlic and the red chili flakes for 30 seconds and discard the garlic. Pan fry the cubed bread, stirring frequently until crispy.

In a food processor, combine grated Parmesan, lemon zest and juice, 3 cloves minced garlic, Dijon, anchovies, and Worcestershire. Puree until the mixture is smooth, 15 to 20 seconds. With the processor running, gradually add 1/3 cup olive oil. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Toss the kale with dressing, croutons, and parmesan shavings.

MIKE’S ROAST CHICKEN WITH BACON, MUSHROOMS, AND BRUSSELS SPROUTSServes 4–6

PAIR WITH:Quinta dos Roques 2012 White Blend Dao, Portugal $17.99Some Young Punks 2013 Double Love Trouble Adelaide

Hills, Australia $29.99Aster 2009 Crianza Ribera del Duero, Spain $31.99

Winnipeggers Paul and Shirley Martens first visited South Africa in 1996. Thus began a love of the South African people, culture, and their imminently drinkable wines! They formed Blend Imports and return each year to explore South Africa’s boutique and family-focused wineries, bringing the most interesting and a�ordable wines back to Manitoba to share with you.

DeBos 47 Varietal Rosé($21.99)

SecateursChenin Blanc($22.99)

Cape Hangklip Sauvignon Blanc ($13.99)

Simonsig SauvignonBlanc/Semillon($13.99)

Bouchard Finlayson Blanc de Mer ($23.99)

4 salmon filets, about 2 inches thick1 tbsp Dijon mustard4 tbsp Frescolio traditional balsamic vinegar4 tbsp maple syrup1 lb green beans2 tbsp butter3 cloves garlic cedar planks

Soak cedar planks in water overnight. Mix mustard, balsamic vinegar, and maple syrup together and pour over salmon in a shallow pan or ziplock bag. Marinate overnight (or a minimum of 4 hours), turning to coat every few hours.

Pre-heat BBQ to 375°F. Place cedar planks on the grill as the BBQ is preheating, approximately 15 minutes. Place salmon on planks and brush with marinade. Cover BBQ and cook for 15 minutes.

Blanch green beans for 2 minutes in a pot of boiling water until bright green and still crisp. Drain and shock in a bowl of ice water to stop from cooking. Heat a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, garlic, and beans and sauté 5 minutes.

SARALYN’S CEDAR PLANK SALMON AND GREEN BEANSServes 4

PAIR WITH:AA Badenhorst 2015 Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland,

South Africa $22.99Alice May 2012 Crosswinds Syrah Santa Ynez Valley AVA,

California $31.99Hindsight 2011 Pinot Noir Napa Valley, California $45.99

2 cups Frescolio white balsamic vinegar½ cup sugar½ cup cornmeal4 tbsp herb oil (recipe follows)1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped2 peaches, pitted and sliced100 g prosciutto½ cup Cambozola cheese1 cup mozzarella cheese1 cup baby arugula

Pizza dough:

1 package active dry yeast1½ cup warm water500 g all-purpose flour3 tbsp olive oil2 tsp salt

Combine salt and flour. In a mixing bowl, combine yeast and water. Mix for 1 minute. Add oil, then dry ingredients, and mix or knead by hand for another 5 minutes. Remove from bowl, brush lightly with oil, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest for 10 minutes. Divide into four portions and cover. Using semolina on the work surface, stretch or roll the dough to desired size and thickness. The dough is now ready for the toppings. Note: Dough can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours as long as it is properly covered. Let dough come to room temperature before using.

White balsamic reduction: mix white balsamic vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan; reduce by two thirds on low heat.

Herb oil:

1 litre olive oil2 sprigs rosemary5 sprigs thyme3 bay leafs

Put all ingredients in a pot and heat on low until the oil just starts to bubble. Turn off and let sit till cool, then strain and discard herbs. Leftover oil can be refrigerated for up to a month.

Preheat a cornmeal-covered enamel pizza stone in a covered BBQ on high (450°F) for 20 minutes. Spread pizza dough onto a cornmeal-covered pizza paddle or rimless pan. Brush herb oil on the pizza dough and sprinkle with rosemary. Cover with wedges of peaches and small chunks of Cambozola cheese. Top with mozzeralla and cover the top with sliced prosciutto. Transfer pizza to the pizza stone, cover BBQ and cook for 5 minutes. The pizza is done when the bottom of the dough is golden brown. When it comes off the BBQ, top with arugula and drizzle with white balsamic reduction.

BOBBY’S PEACH, PROSCIUTTO AND CAMBOZOLA PIZZA WITH BALSAMIC REDUCTIONServes 4

PAIR WITH:Donnafugata 2013 Lighea Zibibbo Sicily, Italy $27.99Zyme 2014 Rêverie Valpolicella Veneto, Italy $27.99Tolaini 2011 Al Passo Tuscany, Italy $34.99


W W W . D U F R E S N E . C A | W I N N I P E G | 1 7 5 0 E L L I C E A V E N U E | 8 8 0 N A I R N A V E N U E

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Wine & Food EveningBanville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairings! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience.

Cost: $85.99 per person

Thursday, June 30: Café Dario

Thursday, July 14: The Merchant Kitchen

Thursday, August 4: Pizzeria Gusto

Wednesday, August 24: Amici Restaurant

Thursday, September 8: Fall Favourites

Friday, September 30: Coast to Coast

Cooking DemoLearn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers invite Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings.


Thursday, August 11: BBQ with Craig Guenther

Luxury TastingTaste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialties cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures.


Friday, June 10: Pinot for All!

Friday, September 16: The Wonderful World of Port!

WINE & FOOD

EVENTS SCHEDULEJUNE 2016 THROUGH SEPTEMBER 2016

The Cheesemongers Fromagerie: Special event and POP UP shop!Banville & Jones is extremely excited to be partnering with Courtney and Meg of The Cheesemongers Fromagerie! Courtney and Meg have travelled and trained in several countries spanning North America and Europe, and are now bringing their skills home as the first specialty cheesemongers in the city. The Cheesemongers Fromagerie store front will launch in the fall of 2016. The Cheesemongers currently offer gift crates, boards for special events, cheese wheel cakes, and are launching their Cheese of the Month Club in May. For more information check out there website at thecheesemongers.ca or email at [email protected].

In the meantime, Banville & Jones will be featuring their cheeses and hosting a bi-monthly POP UP shop at our tasting bar!

The Cheesemongers POP UPStarting June 9, 2016, and popping up every second Thursday from 4:00–6:30 pm

Special EventWine & Cheese Seminar

Hosted by cheesemongers Courtney Dhaliwal and Meg Gifford along with Sommelier Andrea Eby. Discover the art of selecting and pairing wine for any occasion, with a focus on classic pairings.

When: June 9, 2016, 7:00–9:00 pm Where: The Tuscan Room, 2nd floor at Banville & Jones


Click on the Events and Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Wine and Food Events.To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 204.948.9463.

• Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event.

• Events begin at 7 pm and take place in the 2nd floor Tuscany Room unless otherwise noted.

• Prices do not include taxes.


If the early buzz about Interstellar Rodeo 2016 is any indication, the festival of music, wine, and food is set to exceed the rave reviews garnered by last year’s inaugural Winnipeg lineup.

Taking place August 12–14 at the festival stage at The Forks—in the heart of the city and with the Canadian Museum for Human Rights as a backdrop—this year’s roster features critically acclaimed artists from across the globe, with an emphasis on contemporary roots, Americana, and singer-songwriters.

Headliners this year include Chicago’s Wilco, super-group case/lang/viers (featuring Neko Case, k.d. lang and Laura Veirs), and Serena Ryder, with a deep selection of bands and musicians rounding out the roster: The Strumbellas, Margo Price, Wintersleep, Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats, Lee Fields and the Expressions, Whitehorse, Skydiggers, The Wet Secrets, and more.

Like last year’s festival, each artist will be paired with a feature wine sourced through three of Manitoba’s private wine stores—Banville & Jones Wine Co., Kenaston Wine Market and The Winehouse. Stores are once again working with Interstellar Rodeo wine curator Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson to create perfect pairings for each artist.

It’s an idea that’s new to Winnipeg, as is the fact that guests can enjoy the wine paired with each of the artists in any area of the outdoor festival. Whether guests are sitting on the grass and enjoying the atmosphere or standing up front watching a festival fave, Interstellar Rodeo servers circulate with the wine paired with the artist on stage, which can be enjoyed in the festival’s custom Govino stemless wine glass.

So how do you pair wine and music? Take Australia’s Vance Joy, who played last year’s Interstellar Rodeo, as an example. Joy’s catchy hit Riptide was blowing up at the time; the featured wine

paired with Joy was Majella’s The Musician, a Shiraz-Cabernet blend also from Australia that, like Joy’s music, is approachable and made in a style that’s widely liked.

In addition to wine and music, those attending Interstellar Rodeo can choose from a wide array of food trucks, purchase band/festival merchandise on-site, and meet some of their favourite artists at the merchandise tent before or after they tear up the stage. Need a break from the wine? There’s beer, cider, margaritas, coffees and much more to enjoy.sp

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For more lineup information and tickets visit interstellarrodeo.com.

THE INTERSTELLAR RODEO

Photos by Mike Latchislaw


Chardonnay vines on the slopes of Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma (photo by Jasmine Hirsch).

Napa’s devotion to wines of extraction and exclusivity has helped to build an empire, but it has also created an undercurrent of rebellion and renaissance. Napa’s dense, extracted, high-alcohol wines largely redefined what North Americans thought constituted a “good wine”: people assumed if a wine wasn’t big and jammy then it couldn’t be good. This philosophy served Napa well for many years, but by the early 2000s, the result was an entire generation of wine lovers and winemakers that had all but written Napa off as passé and pretentious. But things are changing.

Passionate individuals have begun buying grapes from world-class plots and rediscovered vineyards. Many of their vines are dry-farmed, an increasingly important issue in drought-plagued California. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts and made without acidification, deacidification, additives, and extracts. They are sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but they might just as likely be Ribolla Giallo or Mourvèdre. Often lower in alcohol, they aim to reflect the balance so admired in many European wines; in essence, a return to the California of the 1970s when terroir was king.

Considered fringe wines less than 10 years ago, these wines have amassed a loyal following, and America’s most influential Sommeliers fight to secure allocations. The avant-garde winemakers are producing the “New California Wine,” a term made popular by author Jon Bonné in his book of the same name. Regardless of where your own preferences lie, the revival of a philosophy of balance has brought a much-needed revitalization to California wine.

A Couple of Days In ParadiseWhen a friend from Italy moved to Napa to work in the wine industry, it proved the perfect excuse to visit. Armed with a copy of Jon Bonné’s book, we set off in search of the “New California Wine.” We widened our search to include both Napa and Sonoma, which also offers a wealth of opportunities for the adventurous wine lover. Here I share some of the best off-the-beaten-track spots to unearth the other side of the North Coast.

Great food is just as much a part of any great vacation as great wine! Fuel yourself for a day of winetasting by

NAVIGATING THE NEW CALIFORNIAAndrea Eby, D-WSET, CMS, Sommelier


stopping in at Gott’s Roadside in St. Helena, a Napa institution. The roadside diner features American classics such as hamburgers, fries, and shakes—but ups the ante. Locally sourced ingredients take centre stage, and ahi tuna burgers and fish tacos are welcome additions to the typical drive-in menu.

Producers such as Matthiasson are leading the charge to produce wines that offer a California alternative. Originally from Winnipeg, Steve Matthiasson now lives in Napa and consults for some of the valley’s biggest names, including Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. When he is not working at his day job, he can be found tending his small plots of eclectic grape varieties. His wines have garnered much praise and press, and he is often heralded as the poster boy for the “New Napa.” A visit to his humble establishment on the outskirts of Napa confirms that, for Matthiasson and his wife Jill, winemaking is a labour of love.

“We don’t make wines in the typical Napa Valley style,” explains Jill. “And some of our wines are not typical Napa varieties. We see wine as a drink to wash down food, so we prefer wines that are lower in alcohol and have fresher flavours that pair well with the fresh foods we harvest from our garden. Also, since we drink wines from all over the world, we are exposed to a lot of different styles and varieties of wine. And since Napa has an ideal climate for growing several different varieties, we like to explore the diversity of what we can produce here in the valley.”

Heading toward Sonoma, make time for a stop at the ultra-trendy and hipster-approved Scribe. This unassuming winery is bringing the valley to a new generation of wine drinkers. The Mariani brothers are best known for their skin-fermented Chardonnay that is classified as an orange wine.

“The California ethos is very alive in the wine world,” extolls Andrew Mariani. “There is more interest in true California terroir and less on European replication. There’s so much experimentation happening here: different varietals, a wide range of traditional and new techniques, a more non-interventionist approach in the cellar. It has been led by both producers and consumers searching not only for deliciousness but distinction and singularity. Prohibition reset the California wine industry almost 100 years ago now, and we are still at the exciting new-ish frontier of developing an identity here.”

There is no fancy visitor centre at Scribe, but somehow the picnic tables that dot the bucolic landscape seem even more luxurious than the most opulent tasting room. If you are lucky, you might even score an invite to one of the brothers’ legendary parties, where the food is as amazing as the wines poured straight from the barrel.

Driving north through Sonoma County, one begins to sense how Napa might have looked 20 years ago, with a slightly more rural feel and a slower pace. Wineries still dot the roadside, but many hint at more humble origins. Many of today’s brightest stars have set up camp in the most extreme areas of the Sonoma Coast. Wineries

Night harvest at Scribe Winery, Sonoma (photo courtesy of Scribe)Gott's Roadside, St Helena (photos by Andrea Eby)

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such as Hirsch have positioned their vineyards on the brink; perched on the edge of the Pacific Ocean and the San Andreas Fault, there is nothing pedestrian about the terroir. Fog is a constant companion and the chilly Pacific air keeps temperatures on the cool side. Varieties such as Pinot Noir thrive in this razor’s edge climate. Visits to the winery are limited and by appointment only, but if you are up for the winding drive it is worth the trip. If driving into the wilds of the North Coast is not your style, then be sure to book a private tasting of the Hirsch wines at their tasting room in Healdsburg.

After a long day of driving and tasting, spend the night in Healdsburg at the newly opened H2 Hotel. This LEED-certified hotel features an array of eco-friendly design options, from the green roof to the drought-tolerant native plants used in the landscaping. The hotel provides bicycles for its guests, perfect for discovering all that the charming town of Healdsburg has to offer. If you can, carve out a day to explore the countryside, be it hiking, ballooning or floating down the Russian River on an inflatable.

As you make your way back toward Napa, don’t miss a chance to check out The Barlow in Sebastopol. This former apple cannery is home to a selection of artists, chefs, winemakers, brewers, and distillers. The area encompasses over 12 acres of refurbished warehouses, patios, and gardens. I recommend you stop in for lunch at Chef Mark Hopper’s Vignette. Hopper, a former Thomas Keller protégé, has devoted himself to the pursuit of the perfect pizza dough. Diners are treated to simple, yet exquisitely prepared Italian dishes and a view of “The Dough Room” where Hopper kneads his magic.

At the end of a day packed full of tasting and touring, we were left craving some quiet and calm. Locals urged

us to check out the rooftop terrace at Ninebark, and I encourage you to do the same. Outfitted with oversized lounge chairs, the open-air bar is bathed in the soft glow of patio lights and offers beautiful views of Napa Valley. Away from the hustle and bustle of the street below, with craft cocktails and a well-curated wine list, Ninebark is the perfect spot to end a couple of days in paradise.

Above: Coastal fog rolls in over the Hirsch Vineyard, Sonoma (photo by Jasmine Hirsch); Below: H2 Hotel (photo courtesy of H2)

A STAYCATION TO THE NEW CALIFORNIA

The California renaissance is not limited to Sonoma and Napa and in fact may be even more evident in some of the state’s less famous wine regions. Many of the wineries listed below produce tiny quantities of wine and few opportunities exist to taste them outside of their home state. Banville & Jones has managed to assemble a small collection of wines that have been crafted in pursuit of balance and with sustainability in the forefront. Enjoy a wine tour of the New California here in Manitoba.

NAPA Matthiasson 2013 Napa Valley White

$48.99Dominus 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley $256.99

SONOMA Scribe 2013 Carneros Chardonnay

$62.99Arnot-Roberts 2013 Syrah North

Coast $69.99

MENDOCINO Marietta Cellars Lot 62 Old Vine

Red $29.99

LODI Bokisch 2013 Verdelho Vista Luna

Vineyard $28.99

STA. RITA HILLS Sandhi 2013 Sanford & Benedict

Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills $103.99

Zotovich 2010 Pinot Noir Santa RitaHills $59.99

PASO ROBLES Tablas Creek 2011 Cote de Tablas

Blanc Paso Robles $34.99

The rooftop patio at Ninebark overlooks Napa Valley (photo by Garrett Rowland).


Banville & Jones Wine Co.1616 St Mary’s Rd, Winnipeg

banvilleandjones.com

M-F 10-8Sat 10-6

Sun & Holidays 11-6

Red or White Case $129.99 (four different wines; three bottles of each)

Mixed Case: $169.99 (three different whites, three different reds, and a 13th bottle specially selected by our Sommeliers)

Save up to $50 per case

Available from May long weekend to the end

of August.

Julia remembered the wine!Save the day with summer cases!

BANVILLE & JONES COTTAGE CASES

Order Online banvilleandjones.cornervine.com | By email [email protected] | By phone 204.948.9463Delivered to your door! Within city limits: $12 delivery charge

Many of us have dreams of returning to our roots, but few do it in the spectacular fashion

of Pierluigi Tolaini, proprietor and moving force behind the Tolaini Winery in Tuscany. Pierluigi kept his dream alive for 40 years after his emigration to Canada at 20 years old in 1959. Then a successful career in transportation gave him the means to return to Tuscany, look for a winery, and live the next dream: to make one of Italy’s best wines, no less.

Four years of research eventually led to the acquisition of an estate in the prime Chianti Classico producing area of Castelnuovo Berardenga, south of Florence and east of Siena. Tolaini has obvious potential: just one look at the ampitheatre vineyards tells you that. Experts have likened the Castelnuovo Berardenga area in style terms to Pauillac in Bordeaux, producing wines with rare power and intensity.

To make the best wines possible, the first necessity is the suitability of the vineyards, since it is a truism of winemaking that wines are only as good as the grapes that the soil produces—“the best fruit produces the best wine” is the fundamental principle of the Tolaini estate. In fact, the property produces fruit of unsurpassable quality, and its fruit is evident in every sip of the estate’s four wines.

The second necessity is people to provide their expertise, which led Pierluigi to put together a highly

qualified team of professionals, who share his vision about making the best wines possible in this unique terroir. Diego Bonato runs the winery, but the most recent recruit is Ruggero Mazzilli, who is the founder of the Experimental Station for Sustainable Viticulture in nearby Gaiole in Chianti and now Tolaini’s consulting agronomist.

The estate is young, not even 20 years old in its current incarnation, but the results are already beginning to come in. Gambero Rosso, Parker, Suckling, and Wine Spectator have voiced

their approval for the four red wines Tolaini produces:• Picconero – Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 5% Petit Verdot. The top wine produced only in the best years• Valdisanti – Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, with 5% Cabernet Franc• Al Passo – a Supertuscan blend of Sangiovese with 15% Merlot• Chianti Classico Riserva – the cru version ”Montebello Vigneto 7” has been awarded the new superior status: Gran Selezione

TolainiBoutique Wines in Tuscany

Tolaini – Press Awards

Vinous: Picconero 2011

93 ptsValdisanti 2011

91 ptsChianti Classico Reserva 2010

92 pts

Robert Parker: Picconero 2010


93 ptsAl Passo 2010

92 ptsGran Selezione 2011

91 pts

James Suckling:Picconero 2010


92 ptsAl Passo 2011, 2010

91 ptsGran Selezione

92 pts

Wine Spectator:Picconero 2010


91 ptsAl Passo 2011, 2010

91 pts

Gambero Rosso:Picconero 2010, 2009

Valdisanti 2008

Right: Pierluigi Tolaini, winery owner and entrepreneur, with his daughters Lia Banville and Tina Jones

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www.tolaini.it

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CERTIFICATION PROGRAMSProfessional Sommelier Program

CAPS and ASI Certified

What does it take to become a Sommelier? To become a Sommelier requires passion. Study. Tasting. Dedication. To become a Sommelier brings together people who are deeply interested in the study of wine, spirits, and beverages, and applies a rigorous course of study, practical and project work. To become a Sommelier is to immerse oneself in these subjects, to hold to a demanding schedule, and to maintain the passion that started it in the first place.

The Professional Sommelier Program involves intensive classroom time, with full classes on Mondays (not including holidays) from:

January–June 2017(June to August break to enable stage practicum) September–November 2017 January–February 2018

Successful graduates of the Professional Sommelier Program hold comprehensive knowledge of the world of wine, spirits, beer, and beverages in hospitality. Sections include viticulture and winemaking; sensory and wine styles (including tasting theory, food, and wine harmonies); Old World wines; New World wines; spirits, sake, beer, and other beverages; and sommelier management. In addition to full-day classes each week, the program includes in-depth tastings, case studies, term exams, and practical projects.

A 60-hour stage practicum in a restaurant setting is also required, and is best completed during the June-August class break. The program concludes with a two-day Sommelier certification exam that includes theory, service, and blind tasting. The coveted Sommelier Diploma is recognized in all 50 countries of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI).

For more information and full application details, contact us at [email protected] or visit the website.

Cost: Advance registration by November 1, 2016: $4,500 plus GST (payable by deposit and installments) Registration after November 1, 2016: $4,750, plus GST (payable by deposit and installments) Program begins January 2017

WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits

The internationally renowned Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET®) introductory course gives candidates excellent all-round product knowledge. The course focuses on key grape varieties and regions of the world, principle varieties of spirits, and the basics of service. WSET® Level 2 is designed for anyone with an interest in wine and spirits, and does not require previous wine knowledge. We recommend early registration.

Cost: Registration fees include all materials, WSET exam fees, and a set of tasting glasses. Advance registration 2 weeks in advance of start date: $850 plus GST Registration within 2 weeks of start date: $950 plus GST

Regular session: Tuesday evenings, starting September 13, 2016 Regular session: Tuesday evenings, starting January 17, 2017

For more details, see banvilleandjones.com


Banville & Jones is proud to announce Andrea Eby’s completion of all requirements for the prestigious Wine & Spirits Education Trust Diploma. Andrea’s graduation With Distinction places her in the very top tier of graduates. She will attend the graduation ceremony in London in January 2017.

Congratulations, Andrea!

ANDREA EBY GRADUATES WITH WSET DIPLOMA!

WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines

WSET® Level 3 provides in-depth analysis of the principal wines of the world. Candidates also benefit from in-depth tastings where they will learn to identify product style and quality. The course is excellent for those in the food and beverage industries, or for wine lovers who want to learn about wines in a structured and rigorous course. WSET® Level 3 is a prerequisite course for entry to the Professional Sommelier Program.

Cost: Registration fees include WSET® Study Pack, exams, and all materials. Advance registration 2 weeks in advance of start date: $1,550 plus GST. Registration within 2 weeks of start date: $1,750 plus GST

Course offerings: Intensive (1 day/week): September 12, 2016 start (full day sessions, exam October 31) Regular session: Wednesday evenings, starting February 15, 2017 (15 classes, plus final exam)

For more details, see banvilleandjones.com.

WSET® Level 2 Award in Spirits

This specialized qualification focuses on spirits and liqueurs, their production methods, tasting evaluation, major brands, and their place in the market. This course is valuable for those working as bartenders or sales representatives, for those planning to enter the Professional Sommelier Program, or for anyone with a fascination for spirits.

Cost: Registration includes WSET® exam fees, all materials, and a set of tasting glasses. Advance registration 2 weeks in advance of start date: $850 plus GST. Registration within 2 weeks of start date: $950 plus GST

Course offerings: see banvilleandjones.com for details

Wine Scholar Guild: French Wine Scholar

The Wine Scholar Guild offers study and certification programs on the wines and wine regions of France and, in the near future, Italy and Spain. We present the French Wine Scholar (FWS) program, a focused experience where lesser-known regions such as the Jura and Savoy share the stage with the famous regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy. Those aiming for the Professional Sommelier Program will find this course an excellent stepping stone to the next level.

Cost: $900 plus GST Course offerings: Wednesday evenings, starting September 21, 2016

See banvilleandjones.com for details

DRINK APPRECIATION COURSES (NO EXAMS!)Essentials of Wine

Do you have two evenings for a few essentials on the magic of wine? You will walk away with a new understanding of price and quality in wine, a better understanding of your own palate, and a structured approach to tasting that makes sense! No previous knowledge or experience is needed. Classes run in the 2nd Floor Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones.

Cost: $79.99 plus GST Course offerings: see banvilleandjones.com for details.

Essentials of Wine 2

Take your wine knowledge to the next level. With our engaging instructors, taste wines that represent classics and new approaches. The instructors will help you learn to reflect on your tasting observations and link them to climate, country, winemaking, and more. Over the course of two evenings, you will find your true wine tasting talents and feed your fascination of wine! Essentials 2 will be of interest to all wine lovers. Essentials 1 is helpful, but no previous courses or knowledge is required. Classes are 7:00 to 9:00 pm, in the 2nd Floor Tuscan Room at Banville & Jones.

Cost: $89.99 plus GST Course offerings: see banvilleandjones.com for details.

Beer Essentials

We are proud to launch our Beer Essentials course! Beer Essentials is an excellent preparation for anyone headed to the Professional Sommelier Program, and is perfect for anyone passionate about bubbly barley beverages!

Cost: $79.99 plus GST Course offerings: Saturday, August 20, 2016, 10:00–2:00.

For course updates and schedules, click on the Events & Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com.

For course updates and schedules, click on the Events & Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com.

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cwbank.com/wellness

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Let me tell you my dirty little secret. About gardening. If someone were to ask me right now whether I have any insect sprays or plant-growth-boosters in my possession, I would have to say guilty. Mainly, they are just at the ready in case of extreme circumstances, mind you, but yes.

Generally speaking, I try to take a sustainable approach. I use home compost as much as possible. Weeds are pulled by hand, without spraying. We use a push mower on grass. But according to organic certifying bodies, if my garden were a vineyard, I would not qualify. Moreover, it would take three years from this moment to become “Certified Organic.” I would need to get rid of the just-in-case supply of insect spray and nitrogen-enriched fertilizer. I would submit to regular (or surprise) inspections from the certifier. Any plant boosters would need the Certified-Approved-Organic stamp. And chemical drift from a neighbour’s spray could wreck everything.

So it is with vineyard owners and wine producers. Remember, the great majority of the world’s wine comes from the vineyards of small landholders: growers who farm a few plots (maybe totalling the size of a football field or two) and make their own wines; or growers of even smaller plots who sell their produce. They might sell to local co-ops, neighbours who produce wine, or larger regional producers—or even to world-famous brands and big companies. For most people, wine is a living more than it is a business. “Organic” can be a steep order. The certification process can be complex: chemical drift from neighbours is not a trivial issue, and then there are the influences of weather.

Now, I believe that a really good wine is one where the place sings from the glass; where influences of sun, heat, wind, and harvest weather all combine to create a flavourful

harmony. It may not be exactly the same wine from vintage to vintage, but it will be an honest wine. We also know there are wines produced from a regular schedule of chemical inputs in the vineyard, and a generous share of tinkering in the winery. These wines will be predictable and consistent, but will not really sing of place and time.

Having said all that, though, the matter is rarely this clear. Consider for a moment the small vineyard holder who is facing the third week of cool, wet, cloudy weather mid-summer, and whose entire crop could be ruined without a fungicidal spray. If I were asked: “Should this grower forgo income this year in order to qualify as organic?”—I would have to say I want the grower to have some income this year.

The French have a saying: la lutte raisonnée, the approach of “reasoned struggle.” Vine growers who subscribe to these principles will farm their vines close to organic principles (or meeting organic principles) but will use chemical interventions when necessary. These wines can sing of place and time, but will never be labelled “Certified Organic.”

Proponents of organic certification argue that la lutte raisonnée is just a name without responsibility. However, we should remember that most wine growers depend on their vineyards to be in good health—sustainable—for a long time (hopefully for future generations). It is reasonable to expect them to be wise and sensible. As well, if I apply the same standard to the wine grower as I apply to myself, I need to acknowledge that there may come a time for extreme measures. For wine, the final test will be in the glass.

So here’s to you, reasonably.

sidebarBy Sylvia Jansen, D-WSET, CSW, Sommelier

Just Being Reasonable


204.925.8550 • AJGcanada.comHead Office: 100 Scurfield Blvd. Winnipeg

Ranger Insurance will be changing its name to Arthur J. Gallagher. Our local knowledge and client-first approach remains unparalleled as our global reach expands.

Our values continue to define our business. At the heart is a focus on people, not products. We will continue to play an active role and provide support in the community.

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New Name...Same local service. Cheers!

Elevated, made-from-scratch comfort food in a trendy atmosphere, located in the heart of downtown. DT has the only interactive, dedicated oyster bar in the city. Fresh oysters and seafood are prepared before your eyes at the oyster bar, or enjoy items from the Urban Kitchen menu—everything from sliders, wings, and burgers to reserve Angus rib eye cooked rotisserie style and a 20-oz monster rib.

295 York Ave204. 896.7275

culinary partners

529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. 529 has become a world renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez!

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared old world dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

Located just 2 blocks south of the MTS Centre, La Roca combines authentic Mexican cuisine and a captivating ambiance to provide a unique evening experience. Open Tuesday–Saturday, 3:00 pm till late. Enjoy happy hour with friends, evening dining, or a late-night fiesta. La Roca has it all.

155 Smith Street204.615.9605

Mango’s restaurant offers a variety of exciting food and beverages. Everything from our well-known Surf & Turf, Prime Rib or Brunch buffets to our daily changing breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets. We offer a food selection that is one of a kind in Manitoba. Mango’s offers great daily promotions for Ocean Club members, as well as special event days.

1 Ocean Drive, Scanterbury 204.766.2100

Across the BoardAmici RestaurantBeaujena’s French TableBlack Rabbit Bistro LoungeBomboliniBoulevard Pub and BistroCafé 22Café DarioChewClementineD-Jay’s RestaurantDeluca’s Cooking School and Restaurant

Diana’s Cucina and LoungeDona OnestaEarl’s Restaurant and BarElementsElkhorn ResortEnotecaEra Bistro at the Canadian Museum for Human RightsHotel Fort Garry Hy’s SteakhouseJane’s Restaurant and Red River CollegeJoey Kenaston

Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only SeafoodLa RocaLe Cercle MolièreMáquèMano a Mano/Teo’sMere HotelMon Ami LouisOlive Garden Italian RestaurantPizzeria Gusto Prairie’s EdgeSabai Thai

SegoviaSouth Beach Casino & ResortSt. Charles Country ClubSwiss ChaletThe Merchant KitchenThe Victoria Inn Tony Roma’sTR McCoy’s Italian RestaurantUrban Prairie CuisineVera CucinaVG Restaurant at the FairmontWasabi SabiThermëa Spa

Fine fare, done right. SMITH is a new culinary experience built on craftsmanship and a dedication to the finer points located in the Inn at the Forks. Celebrate the truth of honest food created from the diversity of the lands and waters of our great country.

75 Forks Market Road 204.944.2445

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of all products, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co.

� AA Badenhorst 2015 Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa $22.99....................................................................…43

� Alice May 2012 Crosswinds Syrah Santa Ynez Valley, California, USA $31.99............................................................................42

� Angove 2013 Organic Shiraz/Cabernet South Australia, Australia $19.99................................................................................25

� Arnot-Roberts 2013 Syrah North Coast Sonoma, California, USA $69.99.............................................................................50

� Aster 2009 Crianza Ribera del Duero, Spain $31.99...............................................................................................................41

� Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars 2012 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, Canada $25.99........................................................62

� Bokisch 2013 Verdelho Vista Luna Vineyard Lodi, California, USA $28.99................................................................................50

� Bosman Wines 2014 De Bos 47 Varietal Rosé Walker Bay, South Africa $21.99.......................................................................25

� Château Angueiroun 2014 Réserve Cuvée Virginie Rosé Côtes de Provence, France $26.99.....................................................62

� Calzadilla 2008 Calzadilla Allegro Syrah Pago Calzadilla, Spain $37.99....................................................................................20

� Calzadilla 2007 Gran Calzadilla Pago Calzadilla, Spain $84.99..................................................................................................20

� Calzadilla 2009 Calzadilla Classic Pago Calzadilla, Spain $37.99.................................................................................................20

� Calzadilla 2009 Opta Pago Calzadilla, Spain $27.99...............................................................................................................20

� Cottage Cases: Red or White $129.99; Mixed $169.99...............................................................................................................51

� Domaine Le Roc 2014 Folle Noire Rouge South West, France $18.99......................................................................................27

� Dominus 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California, USA $256.99............................................................................50

� Donnafugata 2013 Lighea Zibibbo Sicily, Italy $27.99..........................................................................................................44

� Escoda-Sanahuja 2013 La Llopetera Pinot Noir Conca de Barbera, Spain $30.99.........................................................................27

� Escoda-Sanahuja 2013 Les Paradetes Red Blend Conca de Barbera, Spain $30.99.........................................................................27

� Hindsight 2011 Pinot Noir Napa Valley, California, USA $45.99..............................................................................................43

� Jean Bourdy nv Cremant du Jura, France $22.99........................................................................................................................27

� Jean Bourdy 2011 Blanc Cotes du Jura, France $25.99..............................................................................................................27

� Jean Bourdy 2011 Rouge Cotes du Jura, France $28.99..............................................................................................................27

� Jonc-Blanc 2013 Les Sens du Fruit Bergerac, France $22.99.....................................................................................................25

� Justino’s Madeira Wines 5 Year Old Reserve Fine Medium Rich Madeira, Portugal (375ml) $17.99..........................................62

� Lange Twins 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi, California, USA $19.99......................................................................................25

� Leaning Post 2014 The Fifty Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula, Canada $28.99........................................................................62

� Marietta Cellars Lot 62 Old Vine Red California, United States $29.99...................................................................................50

� Matthiasson 2013 White Blend Napa Valley, California, USA $48.99......................................................................................50

� Quinta dos Roques 2012 White Blend Dao, Portugal $17.99.....................................................................................................41

� Sandhi Wines 2013 Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills, California, USA $103.99..............................................50

� Santa Venere 2013 Ciró Gagliopo Rosato Classico Calabria, Italy $17.99...................................................................................62

� Scribe Winery 2013 Carneros Chardonnay Sonoma, California, USA $62.99...........................................................................50

� Some Young Punks 2013 Double Love Trouble Nebbiolo/Cabernet Adelaide Hills, Australia $29.99........................................41

� Stratus 2012 Wildass Red Blend Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada $26.99.......................................................................................25

� Tablas Creek 2011 Cote de Tablas Blanc Paso Robles, California, USA $34.99..........................................................................50

� Tenuta Sette Cieli 2013 Yantra Tuscany, Italy $27.99.................................................................................................................25

� TIME Estate Winery 2013 Sundial White Blend Okanagan, Canada $24.99................................................................................62

� Tolaini 2011 Al Passo Tuscany, Italy $34.99.................................................................................................................................44

� Ventisquero 2015 Yali Wild Swan Sauvignon Blanc, Central Valley, Chile $11.99.........................................................................25

� Zyme 2014 Rêverie Valpolicella, Italy $27.99..............................................................................................................................44

� Zotovich 2010 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills, California, USA $59.99........................................................................................50

shopping list


BEN MacPHEE-SIGURDSON

Leaning Post 2014 The Fifty Chardonnay, Niagara Peninsula,

Ontario, $28.99

Winnipeg-born winemaker Ilya Senchuk is doing great work over in Niagara, as this generous and elegant Chardonnay demonstrates. There’s lots of up-front fresh fruit here—think red apple, peach, and lemon—as well as an impressive richness and complexity thanks to aging on yeast lees and some fermentation in oak barrels. Try it with mild to medium cheeses, fettuccine carbonara, crab cakes or grilled chicken.

TODD ANTONATION

Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars 2012 Chardonnay

Okanagan Valley, Canada $25.99

From one of the most beautiful vineyards in Canada, the Mavety family has farmed this property since 1971 and in 1991 created the winery. With a commitment to sustainable viticultural practices and using exclusively estate-grown grapes, this Chardonnay has complex flavours and aromas of tropical fruit salad, lemon curd, and butterscotch. Perfect with barbequed wild salmon marinated in olive oil and orange slices.

GARY HEWITT

Château Angueiroun 2014 Reserve Cuvée Virginie Rosé Côtes de

Provence, France $26.99

“Angueiroun” means “little eel” in Provençal and refers to an endangered species that this estate helps protect. This is a classic Provence rosé with pale salmon colour and delicate powdered strawberry aromas and flavours. It’s elegantly crafted with a silky mouthfeel and a gently persistent intensity. Ideal for sipping and sensational with sushi or sashimi. Drink now—I mean it!—as it’s not suitable for aging.

SARALYN MEHTA

Santa Venere 2013 Ciró Gagliopo Rosato Calabria, Italy $17.99

There is nothing better than sitting on the deck with a glass of rosé, enjoying the beautiful summer months. This Gagliopo Rosato is perfect with grilled chicken and eggplant. It is structured enough to hold up to bold flavours, but fruity enough to enjoy on its own. Think strawberries and sunshine, and you will know what to expect from this, my new house wine. (And it’s organic to boot!)

JAN DE VLAMING

Justino’s Madeira Wines 5-Year Old Reserve Madeira DOC,

Portugal (375ml) $17.99

This fabulous wine is a real treat! Not many people have tried Madeira, a fortified wine from Madeira Island, and this one is a great place to start. This wine is a beautiful amber colour with honey and dried apricot on the nose. You will taste flavours of orange peel, honey, dried fig, walnut, and a touch of sweetness—perfect for dessert or just sipping.

REBECCA LECHMAN

TIME Estate Winery 2013 Sundial White Blend Okanagan

VQA, BC $24.99

Okanagan icon Harry McWatters has a new venture: TIME Estate Winery. The 2013 vintage delivers Sundial, an intriguing blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Fleshy and full bodied, the stone fruit flavours remind you that this is from orchard country. Stainless steel fermentation ensures enough crisp acidity to balance the weight of this wine. Pair with pork tenderloin on the grill served with a bright fruit chutney.

top picks*

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FalerniaPedro Ximenez

Pale straw yellow in color, brilliant, very attractive nose with floral and tropical fruit flavors, nice medium body with balance of acidity and an attractive minerality, coupled with a long, crisp and refreshing finish.

Falernia-Number One-Cabernet Sauvignon -Syrah & CarménèreDeep ruby color, clear nose of red berries, vanilla and chocolate. Full bodied on the palate, good red fruit character, a blend of pepper, white chocolate and vanilla.

FalerniaSyrah ReservaBright purple in color; elegant nose with black pepper and floral notes. It is full bodied, well balanced with very soft tannins, spicy and nice fruit character.

FalerniaCarménère ReservaBrilliant and deep inky violet color. Nose is very intense and fruity with vanilla and white chocolate notes. The wine shows incredible softness in the mouth with velvety structure.

FalerniaPinot Noir ReservaThe wine has a delicate aroma of black cherry, raspberry and strawberry, with well integrated French oak. Medium bodied wine with elegant and silky tannins on the palate.

For more information visitour website:

www.falernia.com

Above: Aldo Olivier and Girgio Flessati - cousins and winemakers

Viña Falernia began as an innovative venture in 1998, as Chile´s most northerly wine estate. Over the past 20 years it has built a reputation as a high quality wine producer. Owner Aldo Olivier Gramola created Viña Falernia with his cousin Giorgio Flessati, a seasoned winemaker from the Trentino region in Northern Italy. Locat-ed in the Elqui Valley, Falernia remains one of Chile’s northernmost wine estates at 530 km North of Santiago. The Elqui Valley provides natural advantages to the growing process including dramatic contrasts between night/day temperatures and high quality of light.

Viña Falernia spans over 320 hectares of vineyards, with the territories being divided into 4 distinct vineyards. First, the Titon vineyard lies at an altitude of 350 meters above sea level, 18 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean. The second and third sites, Puclaro and Pedregal, move further into the valley and reach up to 560 meters above sea level. Final-ly the fourth vineyard nestled in the Andes Mountains, Huanta, contin-ues as one of the highest in the world at 2070 meters above sea level.

FalerniaCarmenere Syrah ReservaBright and deep color. The wine shows a good fruit concentration and on the nose black pepper, red fruit and dark chocolate. Great body with soft tannins on the palate.

El�� V�� - A ��i�� e� ��e�e� �� na��

NEVERCOMPROMISE

showhomes: bridgwater lakes • south pointe • sage creek • st. boniface • pritchard farm southlands village

204-339-2035 • marichomes.com

MARIC HOMES

the cellar door issue 24. wine and sustainability

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