TheBrazilianTableYaraCastroRobertsRichardRoberts

THEBRAZILIANTABLEDIGITALEDITIONV1.0

Textexceptpreface©2009YaraCastroRobertsPrefacetext©2009RichardRobertsPhotographs©2009RichardRoberts,pages2,10,14,30–31,38,51,112–13,122–23,146,

150–51,155,192

Photographs©2009MartySnortum,pages55,61,63,65,91,95,97,105,131,135,141,145,163,165,167,181,184,189,191,195,197

AllotherphotographsfromShutterstock,Inc.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedbyanymeanswhatsoeverwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher,exceptbriefportionsquotedforpurposeofreview.

GibbsSmith,PublisherPOBox667Layton,UT84041

Orders:1.800.835.4993www.gibbs-smith.com

LibraryofCongressCatalog-in-PublishingDataISBN-13:978-1-4236-0315-3

ISBN-10:1-4236-0315-X1.Cookery,Brazilian.I.Roberts,Richard,1937–II.Title.

TX716.B6R622009641.5981—dc22

2008042798

Tomyparents,BelitaandEtienne,whorevealedtomehowessentialthetableanditspleasuresare.

Tomygrandchildren,ShaneandMaya:maytheyfollowthetradition.

TheBrazilianTableTableofContents

Foreword

Acknowledgments

Preface

Introduction:BrazilattheTable

BrazilianIngredients

TheCookingoftheAmazon

TheCookingofBahía

TheCookingofMinasGerais

TheCookingoftheCerrado

TheKing’sTable

TheImmigrants’Table

FruitsoftheLand

ResourcesandBibliography

MetricConversionChart

ForewordBrazilisacountrythesizeofacontinent.FromtheAmazonrainforestinthenorthtothePampasinthesouth,thescenerysweepslikeacinemascopecatalogueofbreathtakingbeauty.Thepeopleareasvariedasthescenery:NativeIndians,Portuguese,Africans,Japanese,Italians,Germans,Lebanese,andotherscometogetherdailytomixandmingleandmakeBraziloneofthemostdiversenationsintheworld.IloveBrazil.AndIdelightedinYaraRobert’sloveofhernativelandthefirsttimewemetoveradecadeago.WebothunderstoodthatBrazil’scookingwasasamazingasitshistory.

Brazil’scookingholdsnosecretsforYara.InTheBrazilianTable,shetakesthereaderonaculinarytourofthecountrysheobviouslylovesandknowswell.Fromthepalmoil–hueddishescreatedbytheenslavedAfricansofSalvadordaBahíatothedishesinspiredbythePortugueseroyalcourtspassingthroughthefoodofthenativepeoplesoftheAmazonregion,withagraciousnodtothenation’snewerimmigrants,andasalutetoherhomestateofMinasGerais,Robertsisanabletourguide.Shenotonlytemptsuswithmouthwateringdishes,shealsogivesusaprimeronBrazilianculinaryhistoryandregalesuswithanecdotesfromherchildhoodalongtheway.

Thejourneyisafascinatingonefilledwiththebrighttastesofmangoes,pineapples,andcoconut.ItintriguesthecookwithdishesthatputnewtwistsonfavoritefoodssuchasRoastChicken,King-Style,StuffedwithFarofa,anddelightswithinnovationssuchasCornCrèmeBrûléethatcouldonlycomefromthiscountryofbountyandwonder.ItchallengesthefoodhistorianwithitsrevelationofaculinaryculturethatislittleknowntotheEnglish-speakingworld.Finally,itthrillsarmchairtravelersandculinaryomnivoreswithitsbrilliantphotography,muchofitbyYara’shusband,RichardRoberts.Whetherreadingoreating,TheBrazilianTableoffersasatisfyingmealthatwilldelighteyes,mind,andpalate.

—JessicaB.Harris

Professor,author,andculinaryhistorian

January2009

AcknowledgmentsIwouldliketothankthefollowingpeople:

ToRichard,forhislove,forbeingthebestpartnerthroughoutourlives,andforhisguidanceforthisbook.Tomydaughter,Danielle,andherhusband,Randall,fortheirloveandforthewonderfulfamilytheyhavecreated.

Tomybrother,Marcio,andhiswife,Eliza,andmynieces,ThaísandNatascha,andtheirfamiliesforthejoyfulanddeliciousmealswehavesharedtogether.Tomycousins,Roger,Dee,andHelenRobertsfortheirfondnessandsupport.ToRobertoandJoannaCiruffo,AnneMarieBruno,VivianMester,CeciliaFrigerio,ChristineFox,myheartythanks,andtoallmyfriendsinBrazil,France,Mexico,theUnitedStates,andCanadaforthefun,thecheering,andvitalenthusiasm.

ToJoséAlbertoNemer,andArleteandEduardoAndradeinMinasGerais,forsharingtheir“Minas”withme.TochefBetoPimentelinBahía,whosetouroftherestaurantkitchen“ParaisoTropical”andhisgardenoftropicaldelightsmademytastebudsjump!TochefTeresaPaim,andAnieteLimaandtheirfamiliesfortheirgraciousnessandBahíanhospitality.ToLaísCastroandfamilywhowarmlyhostedRichardandmeinBelém.ToAbelardoBacelarandAndréaGonçalveswhotookusaroundthisamazingcity.ToAnibal,DesiréeandLorenaLimawhomadeusfeelathomeintheirhomeinGoiânia.TochefChrisIsaacforunlockingthesecretsofthecookingoftheCerrado.

ToMarthaCintraLeiteinParaty,anartistandgreatassociate,whocreatesdazzlingtabledecorations,addingmorepleasurestothedinnersatthecookingschool.Toourkitchenassistants,TatianaLemos,MárciaHelenaGomes,andSimonePimentafortheirdedicationandprofessionalexchanges.ToLaurentSuaudeau,CarlaPernambuco,FelipeBronze,RobertaShudback,andDadetteMascarenhasfortheirinspiringrecipes.

Tomyagent,SallyBrady,forherconfidenceandenthusiasm.Andfinally,toGibbsSmithforofferingmeauniqueopportunitytoshareBrazilthroughoutthisbook,andtothetalentedteamwhoproducedanelegantandattractivebook.

PrefaceIt’seightintheevening,“curtaintime.”Withinafewminutes,eightpeoplewillarriveatourhousefordinner.YaraandIdon’tknowthemnordotheyknowus—yet.Westartwithabriefpreviewoftheeveningasweservecaipirinhas,batidas,andsoftdrinks.ThenYarainvitesthosewhoareinterestedtomovetothekitchenwithherandtohelpwithorjustwatchthepreparationofthedinnertocome.Afewminutesaftershebeginstoshowhowtomakeeachdishonthemenu,manyparticipantsdecidetodonaprons,washhands,andjoininthepreparation.Afterahalfhourorso,asenseofplaybeginstoenlivenintheparticipantsadesiretolearn,andthatsetsoffjokes,cheering,andgentleheckling.Ithasbecomefun.

Characteristically,thefoodsheprepareswithourguestsisallfromBrazilianingredients,withrecipesthataretraditional,adapted,orwhollycreatedbyaBrazilian:YaraCastroRoberts—yourchef,writer,andguidethroughthisbook.Duringdinner,shetellsthestoryoffoodinBrazilfromitsearliestdaystothepresent.

Atthetable,theconversationflowsfreelyandrangeswide.GuestswhoarenewtoBraziloftenquestionbothofusaboutwhatit’s“really”liketolivehere,andweanswerfranklyaccordingtotheirinterests.Weloveit,andwecanidentifyandcommunicatewhatweloveaboutit,namely,itspeopleanditsbeauty.WithBrazilians,conversationquicklybecomesoneyouwouldhavewitholdfriends.

We’veentertainedpeoplefromavarietyofbackgrounds,interests,andnationalities.TherehavebeenvacationingbusinessmentouringBrazilonmotorcycles,backpackingstudentsstayingathostels,akingandqueen,nobelauriateauthors,artists,professors,chefs,coupleswithchildren,grandparents,theyoung,andtheold.Afterawhile,wewonderediftherewassomecommonalityinthisvariety.Onedayitdawnedonusthatallourguestshadtwosimplebutsalientqualitiesincommon.First,eachonewascuriousabouttheworldatlarge.Second,eachhadthequalityoffeeling“comfortableinhisorherownskin”(aliteraltranslationfromtheaptFrenchphrase—biendanssapeau).Nowadinnercomposedofpeoplewhosharethosetwoqualitiesisgoingtobe...fun.Andtheyhavebeen.TowardtheendoftheeveningatourBrazilianTable,guestsoftenexchangeaddressesnotjustwithusbutalsowitheachother.WecallwhatwedohereinParatytheAcademyofCooking&Other

Pleasures,and,bythetimetheyleave,guestsunderstandthatwereallymeanitwhenweanswer,“Youare,”whenweareaskedthequestion,“Whataretheotherpleasures?”Ofcourse,thereisalsothevisualpleasureofthetabledecorationthatissettofiteachregion,usingonlyanaturalpaletteofflowers,seeds,fruits,palmfronds,andlocalartsandcrafts.

Wedoallthisinfourlanguageswhentheneedarises,sincewe’rebothfluentinEnglish,Portuguese,Spanish,andFrench.Whenthere’smorethanonelanguageatourtable,peopletendtosettleonsomeformofEnglish,andthenon-Englishspeakersaremorecomfortablesincetheyknowtheycanretreatwithusintotheirownlanguage(aslongasit’snotoneofhundredswedon’tspeak!).

Thefunthateveryonehasatourtableisbasedinsomepartonthefactthatitalllookseffortless.Anditisreally,yetit’sourownparticularsetofskillsandlifeexperiencesthathelpproducethatease.Thatlifeexperienceincludeshavinglivedandworkedinfourdifferentcountriesonthreecontinents.

YaraisBrazilian.ShewasborninBeloHorizonte,thedaughterofamotherwhodirectedacateringbusinessandafatherwhowasanewspaperjournalist.HerprofessionshavespannedballetdancinginBrazil,achilddevelopmentcareerbasedonaspecialistdegreefromtheSorbonneandpracticeinParisandtheUnitedStates,andbeingachefforthelasttwentyyearswithformaltrainingatBostonUniversity.ThefirstarticleaboutherinthepressoccurredmanyyearsagowhenNancyJenkinscoveredherinTheNewYorkTimes.ShewentontodoaseriesofcookingprogramsforWGBHinBostonthatwasnominatedforanEmmy.Sixyearsago,wemovedbacktoBrazilandstartedtheschool.Again,thepresshasbeengenerous,andwe’vebeencoveredinnewspapers,magazines,andtravelguidesintheUnitedStatesandEurope.

IamanAmerican.IwasborninParisofaFrenchmother,wholaterdirectedartgalleriesinNewYork,andanAmericanfather,whoranengineeringcompaniesinthechemicalindustryinEuropeandtheUnitedStates.IwenttotheuniversityandgraduateschoolatPrincetonandYaleandmadeacareerinbusiness.First,Ileddivisionsoflargemulti-nationalcompaniesintheUnitedStatesandinLatinAmerica.ThenIopenedmyownmanagementconsultingbusinessandconcludedthatcareerbyinitiatingamergeroftwomultibillion-dollarcompanies.NowIcananddodevotefulltimetophotography.

Eachofusgrewupinhouseholdswheredinnerwassacred,conversationwasimportant,andguestswereconstantandcherished.Soatdinner,wealwaysdrawoutourguestsandneverleaveanyonesilent,sincewe’relikelytofind

outourguestsandneverleaveanyonesilent,sincewe’relikelytofindsomethingincommonwithalmosteveryone.

WewritethisfrombeautifulParaty—aseventeenth-centurycolonialvillagewithcobblestonestreets,soundsofchildrenplaying,nocarsinitshistoriccenter,andtheclip-clopofthehorse-drawncarriagesthatregularlytourthevillage.Inaddition,thevillageisatthecenterofatwenty-mile-widecirclethatcontainssomeofthemostvariednaturalbeautyintheworld.BehindParatyisthelushandmountainousAtlanticcoastforest(theMataAtlantica)fullofrivers,coolwaterfalls,andwildlife.Alongthecoastarelongwhite-sandbeacheslinedwithfruittrees.Seawardisanarrayofthirtyislandswherewecananchorforadiveintoemerald-greenwater,stopforlunch,andswimwiththefishbetweencourses.Andmostimportantareitsresidents.Theyareafriendlyandtalentedgroup,includingfamilieswhohavelivedhereforgenerations,atruesampleofBrazil.It’sbecauseoftheatmospheretheyhavecreatedthatweboughtahouseheretwenty-fouryearsago.Sixyearsago,afterrebuilding,westartedlivinginitandwenowspendninemonthsoftheyearhere.WewriteofParatywithgratitude,becauseitsbeautyanditsconsequentattractionforabroadrangeofpeopleiswhathasenabledustodowhatwedoandnowforYaratowritethebookyouholdinyourhands.

—RichardRoberts

Tocontactus:

yara@chefbrasil.com

richard@barclayimages.com

Introduction:BrazilattheTableWhateverhappensthroughthehistoryofacountry,regardlessofitssize,richness,orculturalorpoliticalimportance,muchhappensatthetable!

Ofcoursetherearethewars,alliances,andmisalliances;marriagesbetweenkingsandqueens;revolutions;climatechanges;thefallandtheriseofleaders;andtheresettlementofpeoplestobeconsidered.

Sometimesthetablemaynotevenlooklikeatable;itmightbeamatorarugundertheskyorashadytreeorinatent.Inspiteofitsmode,thetableisthescenewhereappealingfactsthatarecloselyattachedtothehistoryofplacesandpeoplesarerevealed.

AndBrazilhasnotbeenanydifferent.

Itallstartedinthe1500swiththeencounterbetweenthePortugueseandthenativesincoastalBrazil.ThefactthatthePortuguesedidn’tbringwomenwiththemcreatedanincomparableopportunityforculturalexchanges.

Oneofthoseexchangesoccurredbecausethecunhãs,theIndianwomen,wereinchargeofthecookingforthenewlyarrived.Theycookedinthewaytheyknewbest,whichwastogrill:placingseafood,game,fruits,andvegetablesdirectlyonthemoquém,awoodedplatformabovethefirethattheIndiansusedforcooking.Thefoodwasoftenwrappedinleaves.ThenativesandthePortugueseatetogetheraroundalargewovenmatofpalmtreeleaves.Onit,thefamiliarIndiandishesweresidebysidewiththenewfoodsthePortugueseeitherhadbroughtorhadcultivatedinthenewland,allpreparedbythehandsofthecunhãsandservedwithlargeamountsofhotpeppersandroastedmaniocflour.

Bysharingfoodaroundthisrustictable,astrongculturalassimilationtookplacethatprobablyhelpedtocraftthefusionofracessoimportantintheformationofBrazilianculture.

TheAfricansbeganarrivinginBrazilinthemid-sixteenthcentury.Althoughtheycameasslaves,theyhadbelongedtowell-organized,developedsocietieswithstrongtraditionsandrichculturesexpressedinagriculturalmethods,themanufactureofattractivecookingutensils,andagreatcuisine.

TheAfricanwomenwereskillfulcooks,knowinghowtostewandhowtobake

TheAfricanwomenwereskillfulcooks,knowinghowtostewandhowtobaketopreservefoods.OncelivinginBrazil,theAfricanslaveslookedaround,asgoodcooksandchefsdo,identifyingingredientsthatlookedfamiliar.TheyalsolearnedfromtheIndianwomenhowtousethenativeherbs,fruits,roots,andvegetables.Theythenaddedthefamiliarcoconutmilk,palmoil,peanuts,andokratothecooking...andsoontheyhadtakenovertheirmaster’skitchen.

Inthemaster’skitchen,theAfricanwomanlearnednewdishes,butshealsoslippedinthesameingredientssheusedinherownslavekitchen,enticinghermasterandhisfamily’spalates.Theseingredientsthenbecameindispensabletotheslaveowner’stable.

Inthekitchenofthesenzala(theslaveheadquarters),theAfricanwomancookeddisheswiththeleftoveringredientsfromthemaster’skitchenandenrichedthemwithherfavoritefragrantingredients.Mostofthesedisheswerealsocookedfortheorixás(Africangods)aspartoftheceremoniesofCandomblé,thereligiousritesthathavesinceblossomedinBrazil.

Gatheredaroundtheirrespectivetables,mastersandslavescametoappreciatethesamefoods,andtheirethnicitiesbegantoblendtogether.

Notlongafter,newsofgoldandsemipreciousstonesbeingdiscoveredineasternBrazilspreadtosettlementsandvillagesalongthecoast.Tensofthousandsofpeoplejoinedorganizedgroupstofindwealththousandsofmilesawayfromtheirownhomes.Thismovementinlanddramaticallychangedthewaythecountrydeveloped.PrimitivehamletsdevelopedalongtheeffluentsoftheSãoFranciscoRiverand,toalesserextent,alongtheeffluentsoftheRioGrande.ThisensembleofminesandtheirsettlementswasnamedMinasGerais,orGeneralMines.

Afterdecadesofdifficulttimesinthisregion,includingshortagesoffood,aprosperousperiodfollowedinthemid-1700s.Townssprouted,andrichnessandwealthbegantopavetheroadfortheMinasGeraisregiontobecometheepicenterofcolonialpolitics.

InwealthytownssuchasOuroPretoandDiamantina,someresidentshadaccesstoafewingredientsthatcamefromPortugal,suchasapricots,prunes,andraisins,andspicessuchascinnamon,nutmeg,andcloves.Thepresenceoftheseingredients,usedonlyonspecialoccasions,wasevidencethatsuchapersonhadpoliticalconnectionswithPortugal.

Thetablesettingwasalsorefinedandelegant,withtableclothsembroideredbyhandandmadewithlinenandlace.Crystal,silver,andbeautifulchinawere

handandmadewithlinenandlace.Crystal,silver,andbeautifulchinawerebroughtfromEngland,India,andMacao.

Dishessuchasmarinatedroastedporkloin,wholesucklingpig,bakedstuffedquail,chickenstews,anddazzlingdesserts,allwithstrongPortugueseinfluence,becamepartoftheBraziliantable.TheAfricanwomeninchargeofthecookingpairedwiththePortugueseladiestomastertheuseofsugartomakecandiedfruits,caramelizeddesserts,andsumptuouscakes.

Theseeleganttableswiththerefineddishesmighthavesettheidealstagefortheexchangeofideasaboutpowerandpolitics,oneofthosebeingthefirstmovementsfortheindependenceofBrazil.

OnarainyNovemberdayin1808,thePortuguesePrinceRegentDomJoãoVI,withtheroyalfamilyandthousandsofmembersofhiscourt,hurriedlyleftLisbonandboardedshipsforBrazil.ThemotivewasNapoleon.DuetothealliancebetweenPortugalandEngland,Napoleon’sinvasionofPortugalhadbecomeinevitable.WhenNapoleon’sarmylandedinLisbon,theyfoundthecitypoorandnear-empty,thetreasuryandtheroyaltygone.Byevacuating,theprincehadguaranteedthethroneandavoidedthehumiliationofbeingconquered.

Whatfollowednextweredisagreeabletimesfortheroyalfamilyandtheircourtiers,whofoundthemselvesinthetropicssufferingfromtheheat—andeverythingelse!

RiodeJaneiro,theirfinaldestination,wasadormanttowntotallyunpreparedtowelcomesuchhonorableresidents.ThePaçoImperial—theadministrationcenterandSãoCristovãoPalace—becametheofficialresidence,anditwasnotsuitabletoaccommodatetheroyalfamilyandtheirentourage.Butimprovementsweremaderapidly.Eleganthousesandofficialbuildingswereconstructed,thetownstreetswerecleaneddaily,andsoonRiodeJaneirobecameanattractivetownwiththeaters,publicgardens,pavedstreets,andsquares—allwithEuropeaninfluence.

Withthearrivaloftheroyalfamilyandthousandsofnobles,newfoodingredientssuchasalmonds,tea,andpistachiosbegangracingBraziliantables.Whileblackpepper,wheatflour,oliveoil,wine,andspiritshadbeenavailableearlier,theirsupplyandqualityhadbeenveryinconsistent.Withthearrivalofthecourtthischanged,andregularsuppliesandhigherqualityoftheseproductswereensured.

EventhoughmostofhisfoodcamefromEurope,DomJoãointroduced

EventhoughmostofhisfoodcamefromEurope,DomJoãointroducedBrazilianfoodsuchasguavatothemealsofthepalace.Likewise,hissonPedroIdevelopedapreferenceforthecombinationofriceandbeans.DomJoão’sfavoritedishwasroastchicken,which,apparently,hecouldeatmorethanonceaday.AccordingtothePortuguesehistorianAnaRoldão,amongthemanycookswhocamewiththeroyalfamily,Alvarengawassaidtobetheonethekingpreferredtomakehischicken.

Rio’ssocietybecameusedtotheelegantdinnersgivenbytheroyalfamily,whereimportantvisitorsfromEuropewerealsoentertained.Theroyalcuisineincludedsauces,decorateddishes,theconsumptionofbreads,salads,complexdesserts,andwine—allindicatingastrongFrenchinfluence.Gradually,Brazilianingredientswereincorporatedintothedishes,helpedalongbytheAfricanwomenwhoparticipatedinthecooking,whothrewtheirzestaswellasnewingredientsintotheroyalpotsandpans.

Thecourtbanquetsusuallylastedthreetofourhours,andastrictetiquettecodeandanintimidatingsetofrestrictiveformalitiesdominatedtheaccompanyingceremonials—proceduresunfamiliartoalmosteveryonelivinginBrazil.

Itdidn’ttakelongfortheBraziliansandthePortugueselivingincolonialBraziltoinsinuatetheirnaturalexuberance,spontaneousbehavior,andinformalattitudeintothediningexperience,gracefullycircumventingtheusualhabitsofEuropeanroyaltyandthusredefiningtheBrazilianroyaltable.

ImmigrantsfromothercountriesstartedtoarriveinBrazilattheendof1808,butthegreatmajoritycameinthemid-nineteenthcenturyasaconsequenceofthelong-awaitedabolitionofslavery.

Brazilwasthenayoungrepublicwithaworkforcethatwasinsufficientforthecountry’sgrowth.ThiscoincidedwithawaveofemigrationthatwassweepingEurope.TheBraziliangovernmentattractedGermanandItalianimmigrantstothesouthbygivingawaylandtofamilieswhowouldworkit.LaterimmigrantsworkedintheextensivecoffeeplantationsinthestateofSãoPaulo.

WiththeGermanscamedishesofsmokedporkandcoldcuts,andbeer.TheGermanwomenbroughttheirhomerecipesforpastriesandcoffeecakes,whicharecommonlyfoundtodayinmanybakeriesandcafésalloverBrazil.Beer,themostpopularalcoholicbeverageinBrazil,wasprobablyGermany’smostimportantcontributionandhasbecomeaflourishingindustryinthecountry.

TheItaliansfloodedthecountrywiththeirdown-to-earthculinarytechniquesfrombothnorthernandsouthernItaly:thefabulouspastasandpizzas,cheeses,andicecreamsintheircuisine;thecareofprivatevegetableandherbgardens;andasavoir-fairethatisimprintedtodayinBrazilians’souls!Italiansparticipateddirectlyinthecreationofrobustfoodbusinesses,theearlybasisforthefoodindustryinBrazil.

Inthe1930s,JapaneseimmigrantsarrivedinthestatesofSãoPauloandParanátoworkinthecoffeeplantations.Graduallytheyturnedintosmall-andmid-sizelandownersandnowdominatethefruitandvegetableindustryofthewholecountry.Inrecentyearstheyhavemigratedtourbancenters,wheretheyoccupyimportantpositionsinscienceandserviceindustries.TopicturethecityofSãoPaulowithouttheJapaneseisimpossible,notonlybecauseofthepresenceof1.5millionJapaneseandJapanesedescendants(thelargestJapanesepopulationoutsideJapan),butbecauseoftheirparticipationinallaspectsofBrazilianlife.

ThehighqualityoffreshproduceandflowersfoundinBraziltodayiscertainlyduetothededicationoftheJapaneseandtheirknowledgeoffarming.Theircropsofallkindshaveshapedthecookingofthewholecountry,establishingstandardsofquality.JapanesefoodshopsinSãoPauloareliterallyoneveryothercorner.TheyarecheekbyjowlwithtraditionalBrazilianfoodshops,andsushicountersareespeciallypopularinallthemajorBraziliancities.

TheLebanesestartedtoimmigratetoBrazilattheendofthenineteenthcentury,escapingfromthedifficulteconomicsituationintheircountry.MostwenttoRiodeJaneiroandSãoPaulo,andsmallnumberswenttothestatesofMinasGerais,Amazonas,andPará.Theyinitiallyplayedanimportantroleinthetextiletradeandalsointheretailclothingbusiness.Morerecently,theLebanesehavebecomeprominentinthemedicalworldaswellasinpolitics.

Todaytherearearound7millionLebanesedescendantsinBrazil,ahighernumberthantheLebanesepopulationlivinginLebanon.MostofthemareChristians,butthereisalsoalargenumberofMuslimandJewishLebaneselivingharmoniouslyinBrazil.ArabfoodsorArabingredientscanbepurchasedinalmosteverytowninBrazil.Braziliansperceivethosefoodsandingredientsascommon,ratherthanexotic,andtheyareincludedintheirusualcooking.

TherearefancyLebaneserestaurantswithextensivemenusaswellasfast-foodplacesthatserveArabfingerfoods,whichBraziliansenjoyassnacksbetweenmeals.

ImmigrantstoBrazilhaveplayedaninvaluableroleinthecountry’scultureand

ImmigrantstoBrazilhaveplayedaninvaluableroleinthecountry’scultureandeconomy,andBrazilianshavewelcomedtheminsuchawaythattheimmigrantsdon’tthinkofthemselvesasnon-Brazilian.TheimmigrantswhohavebroughttheirfoodsanddishestoBrazilhaveenrichedforeverthecountry’salreadyfascinatingcuisine.

ArrivinginaBrazilianhomeforatypicalSundayfamilylunch,onemayfindasucculentlasagna,amint-flavoredcrackedwheatsaladnamedtabbouleh,aplatterofcolorfulsushifromatake-outplace,andaflakystrudel—allalternatingwithsalads,aroastporkwithtutuMinasGerais-style,theBahíanchickenxim-ximwithpalm-oilfarofa,andastewedfishwithpirãofromtheAmazoncuisine.Allofthesesavorydishesareplacedonthetableatthesametime;thepresentationisfamily-style.

ThereisnorightorwrongtotheorderinwhichBrazilianfoodiseaten.Eachpersonmakeshisorherownselectionfromthedishespresented—akintoapainterwhochoosesfromapaletteofcolors.Sincethereisnodefinedorderorprocesstotheservingoreatingoffood,itcanbesaidthatthepeopleatthetablearetheultimatechefsattheBraziliantable!

BrazilianIngredientsManioc

Themanioc,aplantfromtheEuphorbiaceousfamily,oncecalledtheQueenofBrazilbyhistorianLuisdaCâmaraCascudo,isthebackboneofBraziliancuisine.Fromnorthtosouth,easttowest,Braziliansfromallsociallevelsusetheplantinmanywaysandinavarietyofforms,resultinginarangeoffabulousdishes.ThelovestorybetweenBraziliansandmaniocisillustratedinthetaletoldbyanEnglishmantravelingontheNegroRiverin1849:

...wefoundthisnativewhowaslostintheforest.Helookedundernourished,confused,andcoveredwithblisters;hesaidhewasstarvingbecausehedidn’teatfortendayssincetherewasnomaniocflour!Withallthegiftsfromtheforestsandtherivers,thenativedidn’tconsiderthemasfood:iftherewasnomaniocflour,therewasnofood(Cascudo1983).

Themaniocisaperennialshrubbyplantthatcangrowuptotenfeet(threemeters).Ithasjoinedstemsandshiny,darkgreenleaves,anditsthickrootsgrowparalleltotheground,spreadinginalldirectionslikeagigantichandwithwide-openfingers.Therootsareenlargedbythehighconcentrationofstarchandaretheprincipalsourceofnutrientsfortheplant.

ManihotesculentaoriginatedinCentralandSouthAmericamaybefivethousandyearsago,mostprobablyinBrazil.Itlikestropicalclimateswithhighlevelsofhumidity,althoughitmaygrowwildalmostanywhere.Itisamongthetenmostimportantedibleplants,anditisalsothestarchiestone.

ThroughoutBrazil,manioc,whichisalsoknownasaipimandmacaxeira,growsonsmallfarms.JustliketheAmerindianshavebeendoingforhundredsofyears,thefarmerscutstakesfrommatureplants,stickingtheminthegroundonlandsthatarenotsuitabletocultivateothercrops.Althoughtheplantsrequiresufficientmoisturethethreefirstmonths,theycanresistandsurviveextremedrought,beinghighlyadaptabletosoilswithlowfertility.Maniochasalsoproventobeextremelyresilienttobugs,insects,andplagues.

Theplantmaturestoitsharveststagebetweensixandtwelvemonths.Thecropisstillreapedmanually,bycuttingoffthetopthree-fourthsoftheplant,pullinguptheroots,andthenseparatingtherootsfromeachother.Onceharvested,the

uptheroots,andthenseparatingtherootsfromeachother.Onceharvested,therootsneedtobeconsumedimmediatelyorprocessedintoflourorjuicetobeproperlystored.Thefreshrootsstarttodeterioratewithinthreetofourdaysafterharvesting,so,inordertoreachthemarkets,theyhavetobewaxed,packedinplasticbags,orfrozen.

Theleaves,calledmaniva,arealsousedincooking.InBrazil,theyarepickedatanytimeduringthegrowthoftheplant,and,becausetheleavesalsodeterioraterapidly,theyhavetobecookedorpreparedthesameday.SellersinthelocalmarketsinmajorAmazonregiontownsfinelygrindtheleavesinameatgrinderandthenboilthemmanytimesforseveralhourstoremovethetoxinspresentintheplant.Theresultingpaste(maniva)isthensoldtocustomers.Oneexceptionaldishusingmanivaiscalledmaniçoba,whichismadewithvariouscutsofporkandisusuallypreparedforspecialcelebrations.

ThePortuguese,duringthetimeofslavery,tookmanioctoAfrica,firstintheformofaflourprovisionandthentocultivateit.ManiocgrewalongthecoastofWestAfricauntilthe1700s,whenitspreadtoEastAfrica,Madagascar,India,Ceylon,andIndonesia,whereitisknownascassava.

Amongthehundredsofspeciesknowntoday,therearetwomaintypesthatareusedincooking.Thesmall,sweetmaniocrequiresasimpleprocesstoremovethetoxins.Itisusedincookingtomakesoups,purées,dumplings,andstews.Thelarger,bittervarietyisusedtomakeflourorstarchandrequiresalongerprocesstoremovethecyanide.Thisvarietyisusedtomakecakes,breads,anddesserts.

Themaniocrootsarerichinhighlydigestiblecarbohydrate(upto30–35percent),butarelowinprotein(1–2percent)andfat(lessthan1percent).Theyalsohavesignificantamountsofcalcium(50mg/100g),phosphorous(40mg/100g),andvitaminC(25mg/100g).Althoughtherootislowinprotein,theleavesareagoodsourceofit(23percent),plusvitaminsandminerals.

Maniocanditsvariousproductsplayanimportantroletopeoplewhohavewheatallergiesandcoeliac(celiac)disease.Themaniochasbecomeagreatresourcebecauseofitsversatility.Itcanbeusedinavarietyofdishes;thefreshmanioc,forinstance,isusedtomakesoups,salads,stews,andsidedishes.Thestarchyflourcansubstituteforwheattothickensaucesandtobakecakes,pies,andcookies;theroastedcoarseflourmakesdishesthatresembleMoroccancouscousandisusedtostuffvegetables,fowl,fish,andmeat.Thetapiocaisagreatbasicingredientforallkindsofsoupsandfordessertssuchascustards,ice

cream,andtapioquinha,aBrazilianversionofthecrepe.Itwasinallfairnessthat,whentravelinginBrazilinthe1600s,PholcalledtheplantManihotutilissima(themostusefulmanioc).

Byanyofitsnames—mandioca,manioc,yucca,orcassava—therootoncecalledtheQueenofBrazilisnowonitswaytoexpanditssovereigntytotherestoftheworld.Infact,todaymaniocprovidesabout30percentoftheworldwidesupplyofrootsandtubersandisthebasicfoodforover800millionpeoplearoundtheglobe.

HeartsofPalm

Brazil’sIndiansusedthenativepalmtrees,juçaraandaçai,formanypurposeslongbeforethePortuguesearrivedinthe1600s.Itstraditionalusesincludedmakinghousesandstructuresfromthetrunk;weavingrooffabric,baskets,andsievesfromtheleaves;cookingandeatingitsberriesorprocessingtheberries(ornuts)intooilandflour;grindingtherootstomakelarvicide;andusingthinnerstripsofitswoodtomakebows,arrows,spears,andfishweirs.However,theconsumptionofheartsofpalmwasnotcommon.Soonecanimaginethesurpriseofabandofsixteenth-centuryPortuguesetravelersinthecostalrainforestofBrazilwhentheycameuponagroupofIndianseatingatree.Atleastthat’swhatitseemed.TheIndianswere,infact,eatingthesoftinsidesofapalmtree.

Sincethen,theconsumptionofheartsofpalmhasgrownwidelybecauseofitsdelicatetaste.It’satastethathintsofartichokeheart,asparagus,andnuts,andyetiscompletelyunique.TheoriginalsourcehasbeenthebeautifuljuçaraandaçaipalmtreesthatgrowwildinthecostalrainforestofBrazil;theycanreachaheightoffiftyfeet(aboutfifteenmeters),andtheirlongunitaryleavesgiveawispyshadeastheyswayinthewind.

Today,thereisanewsourceofheartsofpalm.Thediscoveryofwildtreeswithpromisingcharacteristicsandsubsequentplantbreedingoverthelastdecadehaveproducedaspeciesofpalmtreecalledpupunha,withcharacteristicsthatmakeitidealforgrowingcommerciallyondedicatedplantations.Thousandsoftreescangrowonjustfiftyacresoffertilevalleyland.Theyarefullerandshorterthantheirwildcousins,perhapsreachingonlytwenty-fivefeethigh(sevenandahalfmeters).

Themaincharacteristicthatmakesthisnewspecieseconomicallyandecologicallyattractiveisthatseveralsmallershootsgrowfromthebaseofits

ecologicallyattractiveisthatseveralsmallershootsgrowfromthebaseofitstrunk.Farmerscancutoneortwoshootsfromeachtreeeverytwelvetoeighteenmonthsandleavethecentraltrunkuntouched,whichwillcontinuetogrowmoreshootsoveritsusefullifeoftentotwentyyears.

Eachcuttingisaboutthreefeetlong(onemeter)andtwotofourinchesthick(fivetotencentimeters).Afterthegreenandhardoutercoveringisstrippedaway,thewrappedconcentriclayersoftheheartofthepalmareexposed.Theselayersare,infact,thefutureleavesofthetreethatwillgrowoutfromtheshootastheplantgrows.Thecuttingisslightlyconical,andspecificusesvarywiththethicknessofthecrosssections.

Theonlyinconvenienceinthenatureofthisfoodisthatithasashortshelflifeafterharvesting.Refrigeratedfreshheartsofpalmhaveamaximumshelflifeoftwoweeks,andinthefieldunderthesuntheymustbebroughttoaprocessingplantwithinafewhours.Processing,withoneexception,consistsofpreservingcutsectionsofheartsofpalminbrineinglassjarsorcans,andsteam-heatingthesecontainerstocompleteandensurepreservationforshipping,exporting,anddistributing.BrazilexportsheartsofpalmtotheUnitedStatesandEurope.

TheexceptionisahappyoneifyoulivecloseenoughtotheplantationsaswedoinParaty,andasdoresidentsofRiodeJaneiroandSãoPaulo.Therewecanbuyfreshheartsofpalm,andthatisatruedelicacy.Thetasteoffreshheartsofpalmismuchmoreintensethanthatofpreserved.ItisreasonenoughtocometoBrazilandtasteityourself.

Meanwhile,thekeytodistributingthefreshproductatlongdistancesisspeedandrefrigeration.Justasfreshseafoodisair-shippedtoJapanfromtheNorthAmericanPacificCoast,freshBrazilianheartsofpalmmayyetbecomeavailableinselectstoresintheUnitedStates.

DendêPalmOil

Dendêoilordendém,asitisknowninAngola,takesusonatripintohistory.WithitsoriginontheAfricancontinent,thepalmoiltreewastakenandsuccessfullygrowninseveralotherregionsintheworldduetoitseasyadaptationtonewenvironments.

Surprisingly,accordingtohistoriansincludingBrazilianCamaraCascudo,insomeAfricanregionsdendêappearstohavebeenusedasabodyoil.Whenappliedexternally,itenhancesthebodywithflatteringreflectivehighlights

appliedexternally,itenhancesthebodywithflatteringreflectivehighlightsduringdanceperformancesandalsoappearstocorrectdiscolorationofdarkerskin.

InsomeareasofAfrica,palmoilhadanestheticuse;inothers,itwasusedincooking.ItwasinthislattercapacitythatitcametoBrazilaround1759,becomingoneofthemostimportantingredientsofBraziliancuisine.

Fordecadesthecommerceofpalmoilwasparalleltotheslavetrade,anditwasshippedtoBrazilinlargeamounts.Apparentlyduring1798,asmanyas1,050gallons(4,000liters)oftheoilwerebroughttoBrazilfromAngolaandtheislandofSãoToméinordertofulfilltheneedsofthevastnumberofAfricanslivinginBrazil.Butitdidn’ttakelongforPalmaspinosatobeplantedinBrazil,and,accordingtoPortuguesehistoricaldocuments,by1802thetreewastotallyacclimatizedinthisland,becomingapermanentelementofthelocallandscape.

Nevertheless,itwasinSalvadoranditssurroundings—withitsdensedemographicconcentrationofAfricanslaves—wherethelargestplantationsofpalmoilgrewtobeindispensabletoBahíancuisineandtheritesofCandomblé.SincetheAfricanslavewomenwereinchargeofmostofthecooking,theyskillfullysucceededinincorporatingdendêintothecuisineoftheirmasters.Thus,dendêbecameapermanentingredientinBraziliancuisine,anditisusedtocookdishesmadewithfish,seafood,andpoultrysuchasthevatapá,Bobó,andxim-xim.

Thepalmoiltreeisimposing,sometimesreachingfiftyfeet(fifteenmeters)high.Ithaslongleavesmeasuringthreefeet(onemeter),whosebasesarecoveredwiththorns.Thepalmoiltreeplantationisbeautiful.Whenthetreesarelinedupinrows,theycreateashadycorridor,and,whenthewindblows,theleavesundulateinagraciousdancewiththesoundofsplashingwaves.

Thelightyellowflowersgrowinlargebunchesunderneaththetopleavesofthetree,andit’sfromthemthatthestunningfruitsblossom.Blackinthebeginning,thefruitturnsintoavibrantreddishorange,indicatingthatthefruitisripe.

Thepalmoilisextractedfromselectedripenutsbypressure,eitherindustrially,withmachinesproducingtheoilonalargescale,orbyanartisanalmethod,whichresultsinamuchsmallerproduction.Regardlessofthemethodused,thefruithastobesiftedthroughalargestrainer,andthenthenutsareboiledslowlytocookthehardcenter.

Intheartisanalmethod,thepressureisappliedbypressingthenutsunderalarge

Intheartisanalmethod,thepressureisappliedbypressingthenutsunderalargestonewheelturnedbyanimalsorbycrushingthenutsinamillturnedbyanelectricengine.Immediatelyafterbeingpressed,thenutsarewashedinalargesink,wheretheyreleasetheiroil.

Afterabitmoreprocessing,theoilisbottledandsoldinmarketsthroughoutBrazil.Thereareseveraloftheseartisanalpalmoilproducersonthe“dendêroute”betweenthetownsofIlhéusandSalvador.DuringthemonthsofJanuarythroughFebruary,whentheoilproductionisatitspeak,thearomaofdendêfillstheair,andhundredsofbottlesofthisdeliciousingredientaredisplayedontheroadsides,wheretheyglowunderthehotBahíansun.

Allofthepalm-oilhistorycomestogetherbysixo’clockintheafternoononthestreetsofSalvador:groupsofwomenalldressedintheirtypicalBahíanaoutfitsfryacarajésinpuredendêoil.Whenallthestovesarelitandthedendêoilishot,onefeelsinebriatedbythearomareleasedfromallofthefryingpans.PeoplefromallwalksoflifelineuptoenjoyanacarajépreparedbytheirfavoriteBahíana!

Dendêoilisthemost-usedoilinBrazilaftersoybeanoil.ItisrichinvitaminA(fourteentimesmorethancarrots),butitlosesthispropertywhenitisusedtocookathightemperatures.

ItscompositionalsoincludesthevitaminBcomplexandtheantioxidantvitaminC.Althoughithasnocholesterol,itisveryrichincalorieswithasaturatedfatcontentthatdoesn’tactagainstLDL,the“badcholesterol.”

Thepalmtreeplanthasanatypicalcharacteristic:nothingfromtheplantgoestowaste.Anorange-coloreddendêoilisextractedfromthepulpofthenutandisusedtocooktraditionalAfricandishes.Thesameoil,whenrefined,becomesclearandodorlessandisappropriatetouseinsaladsandinthefoodindustry.Anotherclearoilisextractedfromtheseedfoundinthenutandisusedtoproducemargarineandoil.Theoutsideskinofthenutisutilizedtoproduceasphaltandfertilizer,and,finally,thefiberleftafterallofthepreviousprocessingisusedtofirefurnacesformachineboilers.

Cachaça

AssisValente,oneofBrazil’sbestandmostpopularcomposers,wroteasongdescribingayoungBrazilianmanwhogoesoutearlyinthemorningwearingashirtwithbrightstripesandholdingatambourineinhishand.Heswingshisbodyashewalksdownthestreet.Hestopsinthelocalbarand,insteadofhaving

bodyashewalksdownthestreet.Hestopsinthelocalbarand,insteadofhavinghisregularmorningrepastoftoastedbread,butter,andtea,heasksforastraightshotofcachaça!

OneofthemostpopularCarnivalsongsdescribeshowcachaçaisindispensabletolife:apersonmaylackeverything,frombreadtoriceandbeanstoevenmoneyandlove...butnowayonecansurvivewithoutcachaça.

CachaçaisnotonlythenationaldrinkinBrazil,butitisalsoaconceptandanentity.Braziliansmakereferencetoitasifithasamagiccharmandpowertowhichonemustbowandeventuallysurrender.CachaçaisessentialtoCandomblérites,andtherearesomepeoplewhosaythatitattainsone’ssoul.TheworditselfhasbecomepartofthevernacularandBrazilianpopularculture.Whensomeoneenjoysanactivityoranavocationorshowsaninfatuationwithsomeone,wesayinBrazilthat“(it)hasbecomehisorhercachaça.”Itsignifiesasortofsurrenderdependency.

Cachaça—calledaguardente,pinga,orparatyindifferentregionsofthecountry—istheproductofthedistillationoffermentedsugarcanejuice,withanalcoholstrengthbetween38and48percentbyvolume.ItisthemostpopularalcoholicbeverageinBrazil,andlegallytheterm“cachaça”isreservedforthesoleuseofproductmadeinBrazil—thesamewaythattheFrenchreserve“champagne.”

Historically,cachaçaisdirectlylinkedtotheintroductionofsugarcaneandtheproductionofsugarinBrazilduringthemid-1500s.Theslaveswhowereworkingatthesugarmillsdiscoveredthatthegarapa,thecookedsugarcanejuicethatwasleftstanding,wouldferment,turningintoanalcoholicbeverage.Apparentlyinthebeginning,thebeveragewasgivenonlytoslavesattheendoftheirworkday,butsoonitbecameapopulardrinkconsumedbyalltypesofpeople.Withtheincreaseofdemand,cachaçadistilleriesproliferated,andcachaçaturnedintothefavoritealcoholicdrinkofthewholecolony,becomingathreattobagaceira,aPortuguesebrandymadewithgrapes.

InMinasGeraisduringthegoldrush,forexample,theconsumptionofcachaçawassuchthataroyalcourtorderof1743prohibitedthedistilleriesinallMinasGerais,probablystartingcachaça’sfirststepsonitslongsocialundergroundhistory.(Onlyinthe1990sdidcachaçaexitthissocialstigmatogainstatusandnationalandtheninternationalrecognition.)

Withtheexcuseofproducingsugar,peoplecontinuedtosecretlyproducecachaça,whichpromptedthecourttoattachhightaxationontheBrazilianbeverage.

beverage.

Later,duringthefirstmovementsforindependence,cachaçawasconvertedtoapoliticalstatementwhenBraziliansserveditinsteadofPortowineduringimportantreceptions.

TodaytherearetwowaysofmakingcachaçainBrazil:artisanalandindustrial.Thetwodiffermarkedly,intermsofmanufacturingprocessandquality.Artisanalcachaçasareproducedandsoldunderfourthousandbrandsbyoverthirtythousandsmalldistilleriesspreadacrossthecountry.Eachartisanalproducermakesbetweentwoandeightthousandgallons(7,600to30,300liters)peryear,andit’samongtheseproducersthatonenormallyfindsthebettercachaças.Artisanalcachaçaaccountsforlessthan10percentofthetotalBraziliancachaçaproductionof360milliongallons(1.4billionliters)peryear.

Tomakeagood-qualityartisanalcachaçaandtoavoidthedeteriorationofitsjuice,thesugarcanehastobeusedwithintwenty-fourtothirty-sixhoursafterbeingcut.Toextractthejuice,thestemsarewashedandthenpressedthroughlargemetalrollerstoseparatethejuicefromthebagasse.Thejuiceisthenfilteredandfermented.Sometimesaleaveningsuchasfubá(cornmeal)isused;ricebranasaflavorenhancerisalsosometimesaddedbeforefermentation.Thefermentationlastsbetweenonetothreedays,andthentheliquidisdistilled,cooled,andfilteredagain.

Duringthedistillationprocess,thefirstliquidstoappear,calledthe“head,”carrythemostvolatileby-productsandthispartisoftendiscarded.Asthedistillationcontinues,thesecondpart,calledthe“heart,”iscollected.Theheartcomprisesthequalitycachaçathatisbottledand/oraged.Thethirdparttocomefromthedistillationiscalledthe“tail,”whichcomprisestheleastvolatilepartandisusuallydiscarded.

Theagingofthecachaçagivesthefinaltouchtothedrink.Themostappropriatematerialinwhichtostoretheagingcachaçaiswoodbecausewoodenhancestheoxidationthatoccursbetweentheinteriorandtheexterior.ThemostusedwoodsareEuropeanoak,Europeancedar,andtheBrazilianwoodsumburana,freijó,andjequitibá.Theidealagingtimeiseighteenmonths,althoughafewveryspecialcachaçaareagedfortenormoreyears.Thequalityofthewoodbarrelsandtheagingprocessfinishthecachaça,promotingasmoothertaste,adistinctaroma,andarangeofcolorsgoingfromclearwhitetogoldenyellow.Eachartisancachaçahasitsproducer’suniqueandunmistakablecharacteristics,justlikeanartpiece.

Theotherkindofcachaçaproductionisindustrial.Here,thesugarcaneispressedmultipletimesandissometimessteam-treatedtoremovethelastofitssugarcontent.Chemicalcatalystsareusuallyaddedtothefermentationsteptoimprovetheyieldofalcoholfromthesugarandtoreducethefermentationtimetoanhourorso.Thedistillationstepiscontinuousratherthanbatch,usingtalldistillationcolumnsthatreceivethefermentedliquidfromaseriesoffermenters.Thecolumnseparatesthehigh-andlow-vaporpressureproductsandisusedforsubsequentchemicalextractionoftheremainingalcohol.Giventhemethod,industriallyproducedcachaçaismuchmoreeconomicalthanartisanal,and,whileitcanbequitegood,itgenerallydoesn’treachthehigher-qualitylevelsoftheartisanalcachaça.

Therearetwowaysofdrinkingcachaça.Oneistodrinkitasacocktailmixedwithfruitandice;theotheristodrinkitwithoutembellishment.

Thebest-knowncocktailwithcachaçaisthecaipirinha,thenationaldrinkmadewithcrushedlimes,ice,andsugar.Althoughtherearemanyversionswithotherfruits—pineapple,mango,kiwi,cashewfruit,orstarfruit—theclassiccaipirinhaismadewithlimes.

Inaway,caipirinhahasliberatedthecachaçafromitssocialundergroundstatusbytakingittotheBrazilian“salons,”thefancybarsandrestaurants.Fromthereithasgonetotheworld;caipirinhatodayhasbecomeoneofthemostpopulardrinksfoundinbarsandrestaurantsallovertheworld.

Theothercocktailisthebatida,alsomadewithallkindsoffreshtropicalfruitsortheirfrozenpulp,sugar,andlotsofice,allmixedinablenderandservedsupercold.Inbothcasestheappropriatecachaçaisanonagedone.

Thetraditionalwaytodrinkcachaçaisinitspureform.Cachaçaservedpuremustbefromareputabledistillerythatusesahigh-qualityagingprocess.Itistraditionallyservedinsmall2-ounce(50milliliter)clearglasses.Toreallytasteandappreciatethedrink,onetakesasipandletstheliquidlingerinthemouthforacoupleofminutes...thenletsthecachaçaslidearoundthetongue...andslowlyswallowsit,feelingthearomaandsavoringtheaftertaste.Cachaçaservedwithamealharmonizessurprisinglywellwithsomedishesandingredients.Storingitinthefreezerandservingitcoldgivesitapleasantliqueur-liketexture.

TheincreaseoftheconsumptiontogetherwiththepopularityoftheBrazilianalcoholpromptedthegovernmenttoimposeregulatorymeasuresinordertoprotecttheindustry.Asaresult,PresidentFernandoHenriqueCardoso(inoffice

protecttheindustry.Asaresult,PresidentFernandoHenriqueCardoso(inoffice1995–2003)signedalawinFebruary2001establishingtheword“cachaça”asthenametobeusedexclusivelyforsugarcanealcoholmadeinBrazil.ThisactwasfinalizedbyanotherlawinJune2006signedbyPresidentLuisInáciodaSilva(inoffice2003–2011),whichcontainsbetterspecificationsonthecachaçaandthecaipirinhadrink.

ItappearsthattherestoftheworldisgettingreadytojoinBraziliansinsingingtheeulogytothecachaçaandclaiminghowirresistibleitis.

CachaçaisBrazil'snationaldistilledspirit.

Pequi

OnasunnymorningsometimeduringthemonthofJanuary,acertainperfumefloatsintheairandaflusterhappensintheCerrado:beescomeflyingfrommanydirections;birdsofallkindsandsizesapproach,singingwithpassion;and

themammalsoftheCerrado(coatis,armadillos,anddeer)unexpectedlycomeoutfromtheirhabitats.Next,peoplebegintoassembleingroupsaswholefamiliesgettogetherwiththeirfriendsfortheexpectedgreatday:thepickingofthepequi.

Thepequi(sometimespelledaspiqui)isanativefruitoftheCerradoandwasinusebythelocalIndianswhentheearlyPortugueseandbandeirantes(Brazilianexplorers)arrived.Itisaroundfruitthesizeofasmallorangewithabrightyellowcolorlikearicheggyolk.

Whatcharacterizesthepequiisthestrengthofitsdistinctivearomaandtaste.Botharesopowerfulthatpequiproducesequallystrongreactionsforconsumers.Somelovepequiandfinditadelicacy;otherssimplycannotstandit.

Thepequizeiro,orpequitree,isthesymboloftheCerrado.Itmayreachthirtyormorefeet(tenplusmeters),presentingauniquecanopyeasilyrecognizedfromfaraway.Thetrunkandthebranchesaretwistedandcoveredbyathickbarkofanashygreycolor.Theeight-inch(twentycentimeter)leavesgrowthreetoastem,arehardwithirregularends,andarecoveredbyashinydown.

Thepequizeiro,whichisapleasuretoviewatanytime,becomesmagnificentwhenitblossomsduringthemonthsofSeptemberthroughDecember.Theflowersarespectacular.Amixoffivepinkandlightyellowindependentpetals—aboutthreeinches(eightcentimeters)indiameter—surroundspistilsthatburstbrilliantlyfromthecenterlikefireworksinanightsky.

AroundOctobertheflowerturnsintofruit.ByFebruarythepickingofthematurefruitisatapeak,andpequifloodsthemarketsofGoiásandMinasGerais.Vendorsimprovisestalls,piletheyellowcoreinapyramidshape,andsellthepequibymeasuringitoutinone-litertincans.Ortheytakethewholepequifromabasket,openitwithalargeknife,andfreshlydeliverthefruittopequiexperts.

Onthosedays,insomecitieshundredsofmilesawayfromthedistantCerrado,thestrongaromaofthisexoticfruitisnoticeable.

ThepequitreegrowsalmostanywhereintheCerrado,but,accordingtoinhabitants,thetreesthatareisolatedseemtoproducemorefruit.Thereisapopularsayingthatthepequitreepreferslonelinessratherthantobeclosetoothertrees.

Thepequiisdeeplyrootedintheregion’spopularculture.TheIndiantribes

Thepequiisdeeplyrootedintheregion’spopularculture.TheIndiantribesfromtheXinguRiverregionsaythatthehummingbirdsandcaimansarethetrueownersofthepequi.

ForthepeoplelivingintheCerrado,thepequidoesnotbelongtoanyonebecauseitbelongstoall.Everyonehastherighttopickit,whetheritgrowsinpublicorprivateland,fencedorunfenced—infact,that’sthereasonpeoplesayitshouldneverbefenced.ThepequiisasspecialastrufflesinFranceandItaly;itispartoftheenvironment,and,recently,peopleareseeingthecommercialvalueofpreservingandincreasingtheproductionofthefruit.

ThetraditionaldishesmadewithpequiarethecenterpiecesofcookingintheCerrado,andtheyarefoundatalltables,regardlessoftheperson’ssocialstatus.Besidesitsgastronomicandculturalvalues,thefruitalsohaslinkstopopularmedicine.Thepit,whenprocessed,isconsideredtobeanaphrodisiac,anditisalsousedtotreatasthma,bronchitis,andcolds.

Todaytheindustryofthepequihaschangedagreatdeal,fromthefarmingoftheplanttothemanufacturingofavarietyofproductsmadewithitsfruit,convertingthepequiintothe“newgoldoftheCerrado.”

Theproductsmadewithpequiincludeoilextractedfromitspitandusedinsmallamountstosautéfoods,toperfumesavoryandsweetsauces,andtoseasonmeats.Thecreamofpequihasamoredelicatetasteandisaddedtostewsandcakes.Itisoftensoldinsmallglassjars.Theliqueurofpequiisappropriateforflambéingandisusedtoenrichfruitsaladanddesserts.Theyellowfleshofthefruitispreservedinfinebrineandisstoredandsoldintallglassjars.Itisusedinmoresubstantialdishesthataskforthetextureofthefruitandastrongertaste.Nexttofreshpequi,thefreshestformofpequitobuyisfrozenpulp,whichisusedinsavorydishes,sweets,andadeliciousicecream.

AmongthepequiloversanddefendersisClovisJosédeAlmeida,whosecompanyworkswiththefruitsoftheCerrado,includingpequi.HiscompanyshipstheproducttothelargestsupermarketsandgourmetstoresinBrazil,anditisnowintheprocessofsellingtothemarketsofItaly,Germany,andJapan.

Byincreasingthedemandfortheproduct,ClovisandseveralothercompanyownersareconvincingpeopleintheregiontofarmthismajesticplantinanenvironmentallyfriendlywaytopreservethisamazingproductoftheBraziliansavannah.Peopleareencouragedtoeitherpreservethepequitreestheyalreadyhaveontheirlandand/orgiveawayseedlingstoplantmore,thusincreasingthenumberofpequitrees.

TheCookingoftheAmazon

JeandeLèry,aFrenchmantravelinginBrazilin1557,appearedperplexedwiththepungencyofnatureandthemanycuriousspeciesofBrazilianflora.Hewroteabouthowmuchhewasintriguedbythenewworldhewasdiscovering.Nothingseemedtohaveescapedhisaccurateobservation.

Hesaw,forinstance,thatnativesharvestededibleberriesfromtheaçaipalm

Hesaw,forinstance,thatnativesharvestededibleberriesfromtheaçaipalmtree.Todayharvestingisstilldonewithaclimb.

TheMagicRoot

DeLeryalsowroteaboutanunusualplanttheBraziliannativescultivated:“Thisplanthasasoftstemanditlooksfragilelikeahempplant.ThemostadmirablethingaboutthisplantisthefactthattheIndiansbreakapieceofit,digaholeintheground,andcarelesslyplantit:threemonthslaterthisplanthasgrownimpressivethickroots”(Cascudo1983).OthertravelerssuchasHansStadenandGabrielSoaresdeSouzamentionedatuberthattheynameda“yam,”duetoitsappearance,thattheysawtheIndianseat.Infact,iftheyhadaskedtheIndiansaboutthetuberthatwasindispensabletotheirdiet,theywouldhavebeentolditwasmanioc.

Allchroniclersofthetimesexhaustivelywrote,described,narrated,andregisteredminisculedetailsaboutthepreparationofthecountlessflours,porridges,broths,andcakes,allmadefromthistuberthatPohlhadclassifiedinthesuperlativeasManihotutilissima.

Ifthecultivationofmaniocwasunchallengingandfast,theprocessofmanufacturingthevariousproductsdemandedtime,patience,andorganization.Itwastheprocess,notthecultivation,thathaddeterminedthesedentarylifetheBrazilianIndianshadadopted.

ManiochadbeenvitaltothedietoftheBraziliannativeandhadbeentheaxisaroundwhichIndianlifeturnedforoverfivethousandyears.Givenitscentrality,italsobecameasubjectofmythandlegend.

Therearemanylegendstoldaboutthemanioc.TheoneIpreferredtohearwhenIwasgrowingupisthesameIchoosetotelltodaytomygrandchildrenandgrandnephewsforitsmagicalsimplicity.

Alongtimeago,inthemiddleoftheAmazonforesttherewasatribelivinginacommunityofocas(tallhuts),whichformedataba(Indianvillage).Onedaythetuixau,thechiefofthetaba,learnedthathisdaughterwaspregnant,althoughshedidn’thaveahusband.Herfatherbecameveryangryanddemandedthatthegodssomehowpunishhisdaughter.

NinemonthslatertheyoungIndiangavebirthtoabeautifulgirl,who,tothesurpriseofthewholetaba,hadverywhiteskinandbegantotalkandwalk

surpriseofthewholetaba,hadverywhiteskinandbegantotalkandwalkimmediatelyafterbirth.ThebabygirlwasnamedMani,whichmeans“white”intheTupilanguage.Mani’sbirthmadethewholetribehappy,andthatyeartherewerenowars,andtherewasanabundanceoffood.

ThenwhenManiwasonlyoneyearold,shesuddenlydied!Shewasn’tillandnoaccidenthadhappened;shejustclosedhereyesandneveropenedthemagain.

Thewholetribebecamesadandunhappy,warseruptedagain,andthefishandgamedisappeared.

Maniwasburiedinsidethesameocawhereshehadlived.Everyday,followingthetribetradition,hermotherwenttotendMani’stomb.

Aftersometimehadpassed,somethingextraordinaryhappened:aplantnoonehadseenbeforestartedtogrowonMani’stomb!Everybodywasamazedtoseetheplantgrowingandgrowingandgrowing...

Thewholetribewasquitedisturbedanddecidedtoconsultwiththeirpajé(shaman).Afterthemeetingwasover,thepajéorderedthatMani’sbodyberemovedfromthatsiteandburiedsomewhereelse.

Everybodygatheredaroundthetomb.TheelderIndiansopeneditandfoundtotheirsurprisethatMani’sbodywasnotinside!Rather,astheydug,intheplaceofMani’sbodytheyencounteredthickroots.Therootswerelargewithacoarse,darkskinthatcontrastedwiththeinside,whichwasimpeccablywhite.

Theydecidedtoboiltheroot,and,astheytastedit,theyconcludedthatsuchasweetanddeliciousrootwasagiftfromthegodTupã!Mani’srootswerethengrowntofeedtheIndiansandavoidayearoffamine.

TheIndianscalledtherootMani-oca,orMani’splant,becausetheplantgrewfromMani’stomb.

ThisnarrativeofthewaythisextraordinaryplantdevelopscloselyreflectsthewaythedailylifeofagroupofIndiansunfolds,howtheyusetheirtime,andhowtasksaredistributedamongtheresidentslivinginthetaba.

ThemethodIndiansusetodaytoprocessmaniocismuchthesameasitwascenturiesbefore,anditsmanyproductsarestillusedforthesamekindofcooking.Itiscommontofindcharmingandrusticcasasdefarinhaincommunitiesaroundtheregion,wherepeoplebringtheirownmaniocand,by

usingthetraditionalprocessinheritedfromtheIndians,makethevariousproductsfromthisgeneroustuber.

Thecommercialprocessinginvolvesthesamestepsbutusesdifferent(and,ofcourse,bigger)equipmentforeachstep.Inparticular,thestepofseparatingtheliquidcontentofthemaniocisdonebylargepressesthatbeardownonthemaniocchips,leavingthemalmostdry,beforetheyaremovedintothegas-firedtoastingpans.

Themaniocplantgrowsyearroundandhasproventobeextremelyresilientagainstdiseaseandinsects.Theplanthasathin,leafystalkandgrowsfiveorsixfeet(1.5to1.8meters)high.Therootoftheplantisthemaniocitself,anditgrowshorizontallyunderonlyafewinchesoftopsoil.Onehasonlytopulltheplantoutofthesoilbyitsstalktorevealandharvestthemanioc.

Asinoldentimes,todaythewholetribeisinvolved,insomecapacity,withmanioccultivationandproduction.

Themaledecideswheretoplant.Hepreparesgardensofmaniocbycleaningtheundergrowth,cuttingthetrees,andburningthedriedwood.Thewomenbringthestalkstheytookfromapreviousgardenandplantthemintheground,leavingabouttwofeet(.6meters)ofspacebetweeneach.

Lessthanayearlater,themaniocfromtheseplantsisreadytobeharvested.That’sthemomentwhenthetribegetsorganizedandbeginsgatheringeverythingnecessarytoprocessthemanioc.Thetribewillstopworkingonlywhentheyhaveprocessedallofit.

Thewomenareinchargeoftheharvestingand,workingtogether,theydigouttheroots,peelthem,andwashthepeeledmaniocsintheriver.

Afterthat,theytakethemanioctothehousetobegrated.There,youngwomenjointhegroupsittingonthefloor,andallgratetheroots,usinglargegratingboardsmadefromshells,whichtheyplaceacrossthemouthofaceramicpotoragourd.Thesloppymashiscollectedinthepot.

Therearedifferentwaystopresstheliquidout,andoneofthemisbyusingtheinterestingIndiantooltipiti.Thetipitiisafive-foot-long(1.6meters)cylinderaboutfiveinches(12.7centimeters)across.Itismadeofbias-wovenstripsofpalmleaf.Thiscombinationofmaterialandgeometryallowsthetipititoconstrictwhenitispulledlengthwise,sortoflikeagiantChinesefingerpuzzle.

Gratedmaniocisstuffedintothetipiti,whichisthensuspendedfromarafter

Gratedmaniocisstuffedintothetipiti,whichisthensuspendedfromarafterandattachedtoahundred-poundweightatitsbottomend.Thusconstricted,thegratedmaniocemitsaliquidstarch,whichstreamsoutthebottomofthetipitiintoagourd.Thegourdsarethenstoredwetinbeautifulbasketskeptintheocas.Nowtheprocessofdecantingthejuicestarts.Themaniocjuiceisboiledwithfragrantnativeherbsformanyhoursinalargeceramicpotoveranopenfireinordertoremoveanycyanoticacid.

Whenthedecantingprocessisdone,menremovethepotfromthefireandplaceitintheopenairtocool.Withgreatenthusiasmeverybodygathersaroundthepot,andthemenpourthecooledliquidintosmallindividualgourds.Traditionally,theyofferitfirsttothewomenandthentoalltheothermenpresentatthissocialoccasion,celebratingthefirstgiftofthismagicplant.Therestoftheliquidisthenstoredtobelaterusedinvariousdishesandbeverages.Whatisleftatthebottomofthegourdbecomesaviscous,starchy,gumlikeproductthatwillbeprocessedseparately.

Thenthewomenremovethefibermassofgratedmaniocfrominsidethetipitiandtakeittothetribe’siapuna(oven)tobedriedandroasted.Likealltheotherutensilsusedtocookandeat,thewomenmanufacturetheirowniapuna,whichisalarge,roundearthenwaretrayonaroundbaseunderwhichafireislit.

Usingatoolthatresemblesahoe,awomanpatientlypushesthefiberslowlyinever-largercirclessothemaniocisuniformlyroasted.Thisprocessofdryingandroastingmakesthemaniocflour,anddrivingoutthewaterisessentialforitslong-termstorage.

Thelaststepinprocessingmaniocisthemakingofthetastytapioca,obtainedfromthestarchcollectedfromthebottomofthegourdsthatwasstoredinthebaskets.

Thewetstarchishand-pressedthroughasquare,wovenpalm-leafstrainerthatformsthestarchintolittleballs.

Thestrainedlittleballsarecollectedbelowonawoodentrayandarebroughttotheiapunatobecookedanddried.Theminusculelittleballspopwiththeheatastheyreleaseadelicatesweetaromathatimpregnatesthewholeplace.Thissoundisidenticaltothesoundofroastingpopcorn.Theproductofthisroastingistapiocaflour,sometimescalledbeiju.Tapiocaisusedtopreparesoups,porridges,anddesserts.Itisalsousedtomakedeliciousthincrepescalledtapioquinha,servedforsnacksandbreakfast.

Attheendofthislongandcarefulprocess,thefamilieshavefourpreciousmaniocproducts.Theseproductsserveasabasefortheirfoodovermostoftheyear.Indeed,thestaplethemaniocprovidesisthesourceofnumerousdishesthathavemadeIndiancookingdistinctiveandunchangedthroughoutcenturies.Onedishispirão,asortofporridgemadewiththeroastedmaniocflour,fishbroth,andtheherbnhambi,akindofcoriander;anotherisfarofa,asidedishbasedonmaniocflourtowhichalmostanyextrafoodthatishandythatdayisaddedandthenfriedorroastedinthemanioc.Inquitayamaniocisamixofhotpeppersandarusticformofsaltcollectedfromseawater(thisiseatenbythenativeslivingonthecoast),andpaçocaisapoundeddryfishmealmixedwithmaniocflour.Thentherearesoupsandstewsmadewithfreshhotpeppersandtucupi,theuniquebrothproducedwiththejuiceextractedfromthemaniocwiththetipiti.

OtherelementsoftheIndiandietthathavesodeeplyinfluencedBraziliancuisinearefishandgame,heartsofpalm,corn,sweetpotatoes,somebeans,and,mostofall,anextraordinarynumberoffantasticfruitsandhotpeppers.

TraditionalCooking

AccordingtoPeroVazdeCaminha(thescribefortheKingofPortugal),whenthePortuguesearrivedinthe1500s,theywereamazedwiththevariety,fragrance,taste,andcolorsofthefruitstheysawinthenewland.Healsoreportedextensivelyaboutthequalityandquantityofredandyellowhotpeppers,thepopularchilies.Thesechilies,fromtheCapsicumbaccatumfamily,areusedabundantlyindishesfromtheAmazonregion,andtheyarecommonlyusedalloverBrazil.InBrazil,however,hotspicesareusuallyservedonthesidesothattheiruseisoptional,contrastingwithcountrieslikeMexicoandIndiawherehotspicesareusuallyalreadyincorporatedintothedishandarethusunavoidable.

TheheartoftheAmazonianIndianhouseistheirbarbecue,knownbythemasthemoquém.AlmostallEuropeans,whotraveledinBrazilfromthesixteenthcenturyonatemealspreparedbythecunhãs(Indianwomen)onthisnativebarbecue.Again,itwastheFrenchmanJeandeLèrywhodescribedthemoquémindetail:

Ateachcornerofafour-foot-longsquare,Indiansplantaforkedpoleaboutthreefeethigh.Thentheymakeafour-foot-squarehorizontalgridfromsticks

spacedoneinchapart.Vinessecurethesesticksandthenthegridisfixedatopthefourpoles.Eachfamilyhasitsownmoquém.Usingselecteddrywoodstoavoidsmoke,theylightalowfireandslowlystartgrillingthemeatsbyturningthemaroundeveryquarterofanhouruntiltheyarethoroughlycooked.Sincetheydonotusesaltaswedo,thisistheonlywaybywhichtheyseemtobeabletopreservetheirfood(Fernandes2002).

Themoquém,aneffectivetoolusedtocookallkindsoffoodsfromgame,fish,andfowlstovegetablesandfruits,isalsoextremelyefficientinfixingtheflavorandcolorofthefoodandpreservingthefood’scharacter.

Thecunhãs,praisedbythePortugueseasbeinggoodcooks,usedinterestingstrategiestogrillfoodsonthemoquém.Oneofthemwastowrapthefoodinlargeleavessuchasthepacova(anativebanana)andplaceitonthemoquémtobecooked.Thetravelersofthetimesclaimedtheresultwastrulysuccessful:foodnotonlykeptitsnaturalmoisture,butthetastewasintensifiedandtheleavescouldbeeatenaswell.Interestingly,thenativesspreadcopiousamountsofhotpeppersontheirfoodthatapparentlymademanyEuropeanssicktotheirstomachs.

Anothernativewayofcookingwasusingclaypotsandgourds.Thecunhãspreparedsoupswiththetucupi,suchasquinhapiraandtacacá,aswellashotalcoholicbeverageslikecaxiriintheclaypots.

Thegourds,usedcommonlyaseatingutensils,haveremainedpopularandarestilllargelyusedtoday.Theycomefromafruitthatgrowsonarobustvine,andtheirshaperesemblesaroundsquashlocalscallcuias.

Duringthe1600s,JesuitstravelinginthenewlandnotedintheirjournalsthatBrazil’sindigenouspeoplehadanobviouspreferenceforliquidfoods,preferredtoeatmanysmallmealsaday,andthattheyintenselydislikedsalt.

Thetacacá,adelicioussoupservedingourds,isextremelypopulartoday.Thistypicalnativedish,thatseemsnottohaveequivalentinanyothercuisine,ismadewithtucupi,garlic,theherbjambu,driedshrimp,andthestarchymaniocflour.Byfiveo’clockintheafternoon,vendorsareonthestreetsinmanyneighborhoodsofBelémandManaussellingtacacá.Residentshavetheirfavoritecartswheretheystopfortheirafternoontacacá.

Belém

InthebeautifulcityofBelém,onefeelstransportedtoanotherworldwheretropicaltemperatures,luxuriantforests,andriversflowingfromeverywhereformaremarkableestuaryfullofallsortsoflife!

ThedocksontheGuamáRiverdatetothelatenineteenthcenturyandhavebeenbeautifullyrestoredtoday.

SomeoftheriverboatscomingandgoingfromBelém’sdockscarrypassengers,whileothersareloadedwithfish,vegetables,andfruitscomingfromdistantshorestobedeliveredtothemarketVeroPeso.ThisastonishingmarketistheheartofthecityofBelém,andasaheart,itseemsthatitneverstopspumping!

Asearlyasthreeo’clockinthemorning,hundredsoflargeandsmallboatsaretightlypackedfourdeepalongtheright-anglepier.Theboatsarriveloadedwithaprofusionoffishandshellfish,caughtinthegenerouswateroftheriversoftheAmazonbasin,whichwillbeshippedandsoldtofishmarketsincitiessuchasNewYorkandLondon.

Oncethere,thefishtakeonnewnames:pargobecomesCaribbeanredsnapper,ciobaiscalledredtail,andcatuáisstrawberryfish.Hundredsofmenworkfreneticallyintheopen-airmarketliftingwoodenboxesfilledwithheavymassesoffish.

Amazingly,theycarrytheheavyloadsskillfullybalancedontopoftheirheads.Walkingfast,theytaketheboxestobeweighedontheold-fashionednineteenth-centuryscalesalongthepier.

Moneychangeshandsrapidlyasthetradersdecidethevaluesofthemerchandiseoftheday.Thefisharesoldatpricesthatvaryaccordingtothequantity,thusfollowingtheoldlawofsupplyanddemand.

Oncethetransactionsarefinished,thestrongportersdeliverthecontentstothenumeroustrucksthathavebeenwaitingacrossthesquare.Thesevaluablefisharelaidonthickbedsoficeonthefloorsofthetrucks,thusassuringthat,afteralongjourney,theyarrivefreshattheirfinaldestination.

VeroPeso

Tothesideofthefishmarketisthelate-nineteenth-centurybuildingoftheVeroPeso.Consideredahistoricallandmark,itisalsothecity’siconwithitsunmistakabletwosteeple-liketowersandironstructure.

Infrontofthetowersarehundredsofstalls,displayingafantasticarrayofregionalfruit,hotpeppers,herbs,andthevariousmaniocproducts.

Thefruitfillsthemarketwithanextraordinaryvarietyofcolorsandaromas.Ononesidearepilesandpilesofaçaípresentedinattractivebaskets.Cashewfruit,yellowandred,arebeautifullyarrangedinacircularshape,exhalingtheirinimitablefragrance.

Thegrotesque-lookingfruitcupuaçúisalsosold.Itisteninches(25.4centimeters)longandweighsabouttwopounds(.9kilograms),butithasarichpulpthatisusedinconcoctingfinedessertslikesorbetsandmousses.Andfromitsfattynuts,itispossibletoextractapaste(similartothecacao),whichproducesadeliciouschocolate!

Enthusiasticmerchantsgiveallkindsofinformationandadviceabouttheproductstheysell,tellingstoriesandmythsthatlendamagicaltouchtothetransaction.

AwholesectionoftheVeroPesoisreservedforthemultiplicityoffreshherbsandgreens;sometimesusedasmedicines,theyarealsoindispensableingredientstothesplendidregionaldishes.Amongthemanyherbs,themostusedarethejambuandatypeofcoriandercalledchicória.

Thejambu,alsoknownasthewatercressofPará,isanintriguingherbthat,besideshavingaslightbittertaste,givesafunnysensationofnumbnessinthemouth.Thechicória,orParácoriander,hasasimilartastetocorianderanditsuseisessentialinthepreparationoftucupi.

VeroPesoalsohasaseriesofstandsdisplayingahugevarietyofhotpeppersofallkindsandcolors,fromdeepredtoyellow,pink,green,andpurple;eachonehasadifferenttasteanddegreeofpiquancy,andsomearedangerouslyhot.

Hundredsofbottlesofvibrantyellowtucupiareuniformlylinedalongacounteratthemarket.Eachbottleliststhenameofthetucupiproducer.Itseemsthatsomepeoplewillonlybuytucupifromaspecificsource.

Themaniocflours—moundsofwhite,starchygoma;sacsofshiny,roastedyellowandwhiteflour;crunchytapioca—areallmadeinthemaniocmillsacrosstherivers.Itisinterestingtoobservethelocalbuyerstastingtheflours:theyputaspoonfulintheirhandandliterallythrowitintotheirmouths.Itdefinitelytakessomeskillnottohavetheflourfallingalloverone’schinandclothes.

clothes.

Itisremarkabletofollowthewaysfoodshavebeendisseminatedaroundtheworld!

WhenRichardandIaresittingaroundourBraziliantablewithourguests,itisalwaysfuntoseetheirsurprisedexpressionswhenItellthemthatthetapiocaflour,sopopulararoundtheworld,originallycamestraightfromthebackyardsofBrazilians.Asearlyasthemid-sixteenthcentury,thePortuguesebroughtitfromBraziltoGoaandMacao,andfromthereitspreadtoSouthAsia,Europe,andtheUnitedStates.Andtheyareenlightenedthateventheword“tapioca”isfromtheTupilanguage.

GuestsaresurprisedtolearnthattheAfricanswhoreturnedhomefromBrazilinthenineteenthcenturybroughtwiththemsomeofthedishesthataresopopularinNigeriatoday.ThesedisheswerecreatedduringtheslaveryperiodbyAfricanwomenwhocookedwithnativeIndianingredientsonBrazilianstoves.

TheylovetohearthatthecashewnutwemunchonforsnacksandappetizersandthatisusedinAsiancuisineistheprincipalpartofafragrantandcolorfulfruit.TheIndianscallitacauí,andlikethetapioca,itwasfirsttakenfromBraziltoAfricaandIndiabyPortugueseships.

TheyaredelightedtofindoutthatthechiliessocommontodayinThaicuisineoncecamefromAmazonIndians’gardens!

TheRecipesoftheAmazon

AppetizersandSalads

BrazilianGardenSalad

Serves6

Vinaigrette

1tablespoonsalt1teaspoonblackpepper1teaspoonnutmeg2tablespoonslimejuice5teaspoonsorangeflowerblossom(optional)Juicefromorangesections(below)1teaspoonorangezest6tablespoonsoliveoil

Salad

1cuppeeledandjuliennedchayote4cupslettuce,washedanddried2cupswatercress,picked,washedanddried1cuppeeledandsectionedorange,savingthejuice1(14-ounce)canheartsofpalm,drainedandcutcrosswisein1/2-inchslices

Vinaigrette

1.Inasmallbowl,mixthesalt,pepper,andnutmegtogether.Whiskinthelimejuice,theorangeflowerblossom,thejuicefromtheorangesections,andtheorangezestuntilyouobtainahomogeneousmixture.Addtheoliveoil,whiskinginvigorously.

Salad

2.Inamedium-sizebowl,pourin3teaspoonsofthevinaigretteandaddthechayote.Tossgently.Presstoremovetheexcessandreserve.Proceedinthesamewaywiththelettuceandthewatercress,tossinggently.

3.Onalarge,flatservingdish,spreadtherestofthevinaigretteinthecenterofthedish.Placeapileofthegreensinthemiddleofthedish,makingitashighaspossible.Arrangethechayotearoundthegreens,andthendecorate,alternatingtheorangesandtheheartsofpalmontopofthechayote.

4.Pourtheremainingdressingaroundthesalad.

ShrimpSoupwithBrazilNutMilk

Serves6

4-1/2cupsmilk,divided2cupsshrimpbroth,divided1/2cuptapiocaflour1cupBrazilnuts1/2cupmedium-hotwater,divided2ripetomatoes,peeledandseeded1cupchoppedonion,divided(1/2cupfinelychopped)1/2cuppeeled,seededandchoppedredbellpepper2tablespoonsoliveoil2garliccloves,peeledandchopped2poundsmedium-sizeshrimp,peeled,deveinedandwashed1bouquetgarni(2sprigsparsley,1bayleaf,2sprigsscallions)Salttotaste1-1/2teaspoonsbutter1teaspoonachiotepowder

1.Heat1cupmilkand1cupshrimpbroth.Placethetapiocainatrayandpourthehotliquidoverit,mixinggentlywithafork.Coverandreserve.

2.Placethenutsinafoodprocessororblenderwithjustenoughhotwatertocoverthem.Processfor2–3minutesoruntilitbecomesapaste.Placethepasteinacleannapkinandplaceoveraglassmeasuringcup.Pourtheremaininghotwateroverit.Withonehand,holdthecornersofthenapkintogethertightlyandtwistthenapkinwiththeotherhand.Twistthenapkinasyoupressthebottomofthenapkinwherethepasteis.Presshardto“milk”thegratedBrazilnut.Youshouldgetabout1/2to1cupofBrazilnutmilk.Reserve.

3.Inafoodprocessororablender,processthetomatoes,onion,andbellpepperuntilitturnsintoapaste.

4.Inamedium-sizesaucepan,warmtheoliveoilandsautéthegarlicuntilthegarlicislightlygolden.Addtheshrimp,theprocessedvegetables,andthe

garlicislightlygolden.Addtheshrimp,theprocessedvegetables,andthebouquetgarni.Seasonwithsalt.Stirwellandallowtocookabout5minutesoruntiltheshrimpturnspink.Removefromtheheatandreserve.

5.Inastockpot,heatthebutterandsautéthe1/2cupfinelychoppedonionuntilsoft.Addtherestofthemilkandshrimpbrothandallowtoboilgentlywhileaddingtherestoftheingredients.

6.Rubthetapiocamixturebetweenthepalmsofyourhandstocrumbleituntilitbecomestender.Additslowlytothestockpot,stirringwell.Foldintheshrimpwiththeblendedvegetables.Removebouquetgarni.RemovefromheatandslowlywhiskintheBrazilnutmilk.Salttotaste.Pourthesoupinto6servingbowlsandsprinkleachioteontopofthesoup.

7.Serveatonce.

Tacacá(AmazonSoupwithShrimpandManiocStarch)

Serves6

1bunchescarole3bunchesjambuor2cupswatercress,washedanddried6cupstucupi1tablespoonsalt,plussaltforboiling5garliccloves,peeledandsmashed1bunchcoriander1gallonwater1poundmaniocstarch(polvilho)3hotchilies2poundssmallshrimp,deveined,washed,andblanched

1.Washanddrytheescaroleandfreshjambu.Cutinchiffonadeandreserve.

2.Inalargesaucepan,bringthetucupitoaboil.Lowertheheat;addthesalt,garlic,escarole,andcorianderandsimmer,covered,for30minutes.Reserve.

3.Ifthejambuisfresh,chopitupandcookwithwaterfor1/2hour.(Ifitisfrozen,blanchfor3minutes.)Drainandpresstoremovetheexcessliquid.Reserve.

4.Inastockpot,bring1gallonofwaterandsalttoboil.Lowertheheatandaddthestarchslowlythroughyourfingersasyouwhiskquicklytopreventlumps.Thismaytake10–15minutes.Letsimmerforanother15minutes,stirringwithaspoonuntilitturnsintoathickporridge.Removefromthestove,butkeepwarm.

5.Inasmallservingbowl,crushthechilieswith4tablespoonstucupiandreserve.

6.Toserve,pour1/2ladleofporridgeintoagourdorsoupbowl;add1cupoftucupiandthegreensovertheporridgeandthenacoupletablespoonsofjambu.Add5shrimpandservewiththehotsauceontheside.

PatonoTucupi(TucupiDuckSoup)

Serves6

2garliccloves,peeledSaltandfreshlygroundpeppertotasteJuiceof2limes1bayleaf,crumbled2poundsduck,washed1/2cupwater5cupstucupijuice1/2cupjambu,sorrel,orwatercress,washedanddrained2cupschicory,washedanddrained,cutinchiffonade

1.Preheattheovento300degreesF.Inalargebowl,crushthegarlic,salt,pepper,limejuice,andbayleaf.Addtheduck;turntocoat.Coverandmarinateintherefrigeratorfor2hours,turningtheduckonce.

2.Placetheduckonarackinaroastingpan.Pourremainingmarinadeand1/2cupwaterintothepan.Placethepanonthelowerovenrackandroastfor1houroruntiltheskiniscrispandjuicesrunclearwhenthethighisprickedwithafork.

3.Coolandcutinto6pieces,removingthebackboneandwingtips.

4.Placetheduckinalargenonreactivesaucepanandbarelycoverwithwater;cookgentlyfor1hourovermediumheat.Addthetucupijuiceandsimmerfor30minutes.

5.Bringapotofwatertoaboilandplungeinthejambuorsorrelfor2minutes.Drainandchopthejambu,andaddtothetucupisoup.Ifusingsorrelorwatercress,adddirectlytothetucupi.Removetheduckpiecesfromthepan,separatethemeatfromthebones,andshredthemeatintosmallpieces.

6.Toserve,takeasoupbowlandplace1/2cupchicoryonthebottom,followedby5tablespoonsoftheshreddedduckand2cupsofthebroth.

7.ServeasafirstcourseorasamaindishwithriceorFarofa.

MainCourses

CaldeiradadePeixedoPará(ParáFishStew)

Serves6

4poundsmonkfishfilets6garliccloves2tablespoonschoppedcilantroJuiceof4limes3tablespoonsfreshchilies2tablespoonssalt6largenewpotatoes1bunchscallions,divided1bunchparsley,divided8cupsfishstock6tablespoonsoliveoil1poundmedium-sizewholefirmtomatoes1poundmedium-sizewholeonions,peeled1poundshrimp,withoutshells6boiledeggs,peeled4sprigscilantro,forgarnish

1.Washthefishfiletswithwater.Inamortar,crushthegarlic,cilantro,limejuice,chilies,andsalt.Placethemarinadeandfishinabowl,cover,andmarinatefor1hour.

2.Peelthepotatoes;placetheminabowlofcoldwaterandreserve.Tie1/2ofthescallionsand1/2oftheparsleytogetherwithstringtomakeabouquetgarni.

3.Inanearthenwarepotorabraiserpan,boilthefishstock,oliveoil,andthebouquetgarnifor10minutes.

4.Putinthepotatoes,lowertheheat,andcookthepotatoesfor8minutes.Distributethefish,thetomatoes,andtheonionsaroundthepanandtopwiththerestoftheherbs.Letitsimmergently,uncovered,for5minutes.

restoftheherbs.Letitsimmergently,uncovered,for5minutes.

5.Arrangetheshrimparoundthepanandcookforanother5minutes.Cuttheboiledeggsinhalf,arrangethemaroundthepan,andsimmerforanother3minutes.

6.ServeatoncewithwhitericeorScaldedPirão.Decoratewithcilantrosprigs.

AmazonStyleFish

Serves6

TomatoSauce

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1cupchoppedonions6garliccloves,peeledandchopped3tablespoonschoppedcilantroSaltandpeppertotaste1poundtomatoes,peeled,seeded,andquarteredor1(16-ounce)canwholetomatoes,quartered

2teaspoonsTabascosauceor1malaguetapepper,crushed

Fish

8teaspoonssalt,divided2tablespoonslimejuice6cupswater,divided6largeshrimp,peeledbutwithtailson6squaresofbananaleaf(foundinAsianfoodstores)or1–2wholeyoungbananaleaves(ifusingawholefish)

3poundswholetilefish,bonedandopeninbutterfly(headandtailon)or6fishfilets

FarofaGrilledBananasOnionConfit

TomatoSauce

1.Inamediumsaucepan,heatthevegetableoilandsautétheonionsovermedium-lowheatuntiltheysoften.Addthegarlic,mixingwell,andthenthecilantro.Stiracoupleoftimes.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.Addthe

cilantro.Stiracoupleoftimes.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.AddthetomatoesandtheTabascoormalaguetapepper.Cookfor3minutesandsetaside.

Fish

2.Preheattheovento325degreesF.Inasmallbowl,combine4teaspoonssaltandthelimejuice.Reserve.

3.Inasmallsaucepan,bringtoboil2cupswaterwith4teaspoonssalt.Place2shrimpatatimeinthepanandcookthemfor2–3minutes.Removefromthepanandimmerseinicewater.Drainandreserve.

4.Ifusingfreshbananaleaves,inamedium-sizefryingpan,boil4cupswater.Usingtongs,carefullyimmerseonebananaleafsquareandblanchfor1–2minutes.Removeandstrain.Theleafisnowshinyandgreen.Repeatwithotherleavesandreserve.

5.Ifusingawholebananaleaf,passitrapidlyoveranopenflameuntiltheleafturnsshinyandsoft.

6.Placethebananaleafopenonthecounterandsprinklewith1teaspoonofthesaltedlimejuice.Placethefishfiletontopofthebananaleafandsprinkleagainwithanotherteaspoonofthesaltedlimejuice.Usingadessertspoon,spreadthetomatosauce1/2inchwidelengthwiseinthecenterofthefilet.Ontopofthat,buildalengthwisemoundoffarofa.Cutacoupleofpiecesofgrilledbananaandplacethemontopofthefarofa.Alternatewith2onionconfit;pressdownslightlywiththepalmofthehand.Gentlyrollupthefishsothecontentsremaininplace.Ithelpstocupyourhandsaroundthesideoftherollandpressinasthoughyouweremakingasnowball.Foldthebananaleafaroundthefishasifyouwerewrappingapresent,andpineachendwithatoothpick.

7.Ifyouareusingawholefish,youneedalargebananaleaf.Placethefishopenontopofthebananaleaf.Spread2–3tablespoonsofsaltedlimejuiceontheleafandplacethewholefishontheleaf.Fillthefishinthesamewayasdescribedabove.Closethefishandwrapitwiththebananaleaf,tyingitwithapieceofstringorusingatoothpick.

8.Placethewrappedfishinabakingdish.Pour1cupwateronthebottomofthepanandbakefor20minutes,or30minutesifmakingawholefish.

9.Toserve,openthebananaleaf,foldingitunderthefishfilet.Place1teaspoonofthetomatosauceontopofthefish.Carefullyplaceamedium-sizeshrimp

ofthetomatosauceontopofthefish.Carefullyplaceamedium-sizeshrimpencirclingthetomatosauce.Place1tablespoonoffarofaontheplate,encirclingthefish,andbesideitplace2grilledbananasand2onionconfit.Servewithmalaguetasauceontheside.

ShrimpJuquitaya

Serves6

Paste

1/2teaspooncoarsesalt6teaspoonsurucumorachiote1/2teaspooncayenne1/2teaspoonmalaguetapepper,seeded1tablespoonoliveoil1/2teaspoonlimejuice

Shrimp

1poundlargeshrimp,peeled,deveined,andwashed(leavethetailon)3poundspumpkin2cupswater1tablespoonsalt1cuporangejuice6piecesorangepeel1/2cupbutter4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided3tablespoonslimejuice,divided3cupswatercress,picked,washed,anddried,fordecorationSaltandpeppertotaste6teaspoonsurucumorachiote,forgarnish

Paste

1.Inamortar,grindtogethersalt,urucumorachiote,cayenne,andmalaguetapepper.Addtheoliveoilandlimejuiceandmix,makingapaste.

Shrimp

2.Rubtheshrimpwiththepasteandletmarinatefor1hour.

3.Cutacircle1-1/2incheswidefromthelargestpartofthepumpkin.Inabraiserpan,boilenoughsaltedwatertocoverthepumpkinring,andcookthepumpkinringfor8minutes.Drainthepumpkin.Cleantheinnerpartofthecircle,removinganyfiberthathasremainedfromthecookingprocess.

4.Cuttherestofthepumpkinintolargechunks.Bringwater,salt,orangejuice,andorangepeeltoaboilinalargesaucepanandcookthepumpkinpiecesuntiltheybecomesoft.Drainandsave1cupoftheliquid.Peelthepumpkinand,usingapotatomasher,mashthepumpkintomakeapurée.Foldinthebutter,addsomeofthecookingliquid,andbeatwithaspoonuntilitbecomessmooth.Keepwarm.

5.Inaskillet,heat2tablespoonsoilandseartheshrimponbothsidesfor3–4minutes.Inthesameskillet,add2tablespoonslimejuiceanddeglazethepan,shakingacoupleoftimes.Keepitwarmandreserve.

6.Placethepumpkincircleinthemiddleofanattractiveplate.Filltheinteriorofthecirclewiththepuréeandarrangethegrilledshrimparoundthecircle.

7.Tossthewatercresswith1tablespoonlimejuice,2tablespoonsoliveoil,salt,andpepperandarrangeitaroundthepumpkincircle.

8.Sprinkleachioteorurucumaroundtheplateandserveatonce.

FishBrochettewithPineapple

Serves6

2poundsfishsteaks(yellowtail,hake,orseawolf)2tablespoonsurucumorachiote2tablespoonscoarsesalt4tablespoonsoliveoil1medium-sizepineapple6skewers

1.Removetheskinsfromthefishandcuteachfishsteakinto2-inchsquares.Reserveandkeepcold.

2.Inasmallbowl,mixtheurucumwiththesaltandoliveoil.

3.Peelthepineappleandcutinto4pieces,lengthwise.Takeoutthecoreandcutthepineappleinto2-inchcubes.

4.Inalargebowl,tossthefishsquareswiththeseasonedoil.Drainthefishandreserveanyleftoveroil.Skewerthefishandthepineapple,alternatingthecubes.

5.Placetheskewersinabarbecuepreheatedto300degreesF.Grillfor4minutes.Beforeturningtheskewers,brushthemwiththeremainingoil.Whenthefishiscooked,servethebrochetteswithFarofaorManiocwithSautéedOnions.

StuffedTomatoeswithManiocFlourandCashewNuts

Serves4

2largetomatoes,ripe2teaspoonssugar1/2cupcashewnuts,roasted1-1/2cupsFarofa4-1/2tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1/3cupcrumbledbluecheese1/2cupscallions,divided(1/4cupchoppedfinely)1cupwatercressandarugula,washedanddriedSaltandpeppertotaste

1.Washanddrythetomatoes.Cutoffasmallslicefromthetopofeachtomato.Placetomatoescut-sidedownonthecuttingboard.

2.Usingthepointofaparingknifeinaverticalposition,makeacircularincision1/2inchdeepand2incheswide.Youshouldendupwith2niceconicaltomatopieceswithapointattheend.Reservefordecoration.Corethetomatoes.

3.Sprinkletheinsideofthetomatoeswithsugarandturnthemupsidedownonaplate.Thetomatoeswillreleasesomewater.

4.Select4beautifulcashewnutsandsavethemfordecoration.Coarselycrushtherestofthecashewnutsandreserve.

5.Justbeforeyoufinishcookingthefarofa,mixin3tablespoonsoliveoil,thecrumbledcheese,thecrushedcashewnuts,and1/4cupfinelychoppedscallions.Mixwellandreserve.

6.Turnthetomatoes,placethemonthecounter,andsprinklewithsalt.Usingaspoon,filleachtomatowith1/2ofthefarofamixture,pressinglightly.Topwiththerestofthefarofamixture,awholecashewnut,andacoupleofpiecesofscallion.Arrangeonasaladplatewiththetomatointhecenter.

7.Inamedium-sizebowl,tossthewatercressandarugulawithremainingoliveoil,salt,andpepper.Arrangearoundthetomatoes.Placeroundtomatotopby

oil,salt,andpepper.Arrangearoundthetomatoes.Placeroundtomatotopbytheside.

SideDishes

OnionConfit

Serves6

5-1/2cupswater,divided3cupssmallyellowwholeonions1tablespoonvegetableoil6tablespoonsbutter5teaspoonssalt

1.Bring5cupswatertoboilinapotandblanchtheonionsfor2minutes.Whentheyarecoolenoughtohandle,peeltheonionsandreserve.

2.Heatoilandbutterinaheavyskilletoverlowheat.Placetheonionsintheskilletandturnthemastheybecomegolden,shakingthepanconstantly.Addmorebutterifneeded.Keepshakingtheskillettomovetheonionsaroundinordertomakethemgolden.Itwilltakearound15minutes.

3.Whentheonionsaregoldenandcooked,turnofftheheatandlettheskilletcool.Pour1/2cupwaterandthesaltintotheskilletandsimmer,shakingtheskilletwellandscrapingthebottomofthepan.Letitcoolcompletelyandthenplacetheonionsinajar.Coveronionswiththeliquidfromtheskillet.Refrigerateupto3weeks.

Farofa

Serves6

4tablespoonsoliveoilorbutter4garliccloves,finelychopped2cupsmaniocflour(preferablytheyellowkind)Saltandpeppertotaste

1.Inamedium-sizeskillet,heattheoilorbutteroverlowheatandsautéthegarlic.Whenthegarlicissoft,pourthemaniocflourthroughyourfingersasyoustirslowly,mixingitwiththebutter.

2.Whenallthefatisabsorbedbytheflour,gentlymixwithaspatula,movingtheflourfromonesidetotheothertoroastit.Thefarofaisreadywhenitchangescolorfromlightyellowtoamorevividyellow.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

GrilledBananas

Serves6

8bananas,firmbutnotgreen2tablespoonsvegetableoil4tablespoonsbutterOR6tablespoonsoliveoil

1.Peelthebananas.Placeabananaonacuttingboardand,usingonehandtosecureit,gentlyslicethebananainhalflengthwisewithasharpknife.Dothesamewiththeotherbananas.Reserve.

2.Inaheavyskillet,warmthevegetableoilandbutterortheoliveoil.Whenitstartsfoaming,place2halvesofthebananaatatimeintheskilletandgrillononesidefor3–4minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Turnthebananagentlywithaspatulaandgrilltheotherside.

3.Removethebananasfromtheskilletandplacetheminaservingdish.

4.Serveatonceorheatintheovenonmedium-highheat,coveredwithfoil,for5minutes.

ManiocwithSautéedOnions

Serves6

2poundsmanioc,peeled(freshorfrozen)1gallonwater3tablespoonssalt6tablespoonsbutter2cupsjuliennedonionBlackpeppertotaste2tablespoonsfinelychoppedparsley

1.Cutthepeeledmaniocinto4-inchcubes.Inalargepan,boilwaterwithsalt.Whenitcomestoahighboil,placethemaniocpiecesinthepan.Lowertheheattomedium-highandcookthemanioc,covered,untiltheybecomesoftbutnottothepointofdismantling.Removethemaniocfromthepan,reserving1cupofthecookingliquid.Keepthemaniocwarmandcoveredwithsomeofthecookingliquid.

2.Placethebutterinalargesautépanandsautétheonionsuntiltheyturnsoftandtransparent.Addthecookedmanioctothepanandshakeacoupleoftimestocoatthepieceswiththebutterandtheonion.Addthereservedcookingliquidandadjustforsalt,ifnecessary.Arrangethemaniocpiecesinaservingdishandcoverwiththeonionandthesauce.Sprinklewithblackpepperandchoppedparsley.

3.Serveasasidedishwithmeats,poultry,andfish.

PirãoCozido(CookedManiocFlourPorridge)

Serves4

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1/2cupchoppedonion4garliccloves,chopped1/2cupchoppedredbellpepper1/2cupchoppedtomato1cupscrapsoffishSalttotaste2cupsoffishbroth1cupwater3/4cupmaniocflour1/4cupchoppedcilantro

1.Inamediumsaucepan,heattheoilandsautétheonionandthenthegarlic.Stir.Addbellpepper,tomato,andfish,mixingalltheingredients.Seasonwithsaltandletitcookfor3minutes.Removefromheatandplaceinfoodprocessor,addingthefishbrothlittlebylittle.Processuntilalltheingredientsarewellblended.

2.Inamediumbowl,mixtogetherthewaterandthemaniocflour.

3.Inamedium-sizesaucepan,placetheprocessedsauceoverlowheatandgentlypourthedissolvedmaniocintothepanandwhiskwell.Simmerfor5–8minutes,stirringconstantly.

4.Placethepirãoinaservingbowlandsprinklewithchoppedcilantro.

PirãoEscaldado(ScaldedManiocPorridge)

Serves4

6cupsfishbroth4cupsmaniocflourSalttotaste1/4cupchoppedcilantro

1.Heatthefishbrothbutdonotboil.Placethebrothinashallowbowlandpourthemaniocflourslowlythroughyourfingersintothecenterofthebowl.Mixwithafork,makingcirclesuntiltheflourbecomeswetasitabsorbstheliquid,about2–3minutes.Salttotasteandsprinklewithchoppedcilantro.

2.Thisisasidedishservedwithstews.Itcanalsobepreparedonindividualplates.Inthiscase,eachpersonmakeshisorherownpirão.

Desserts

AçaíMousse

Serves6

1/2cupplus2tablespoonscoldwater,divided2teaspoonsunflavoredgelatin4eggs,separated2tablespoonslimejuice3/4cupsugar1cupfrozenaçaípulp2tablespoonsaçaíliqueurPinchofsalt2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar6sprigsmint,forgarnish

1.Place1/2cupwaterinabowlandsprinklethegelatinoverit.Letsitfor5minutessothegelatinexpands.Placetheeggyolksinaseparatebowlandbeatthemvigorously.Whiskin2tablespoonswaterasyoucontinuetobeat.Addthelimejuiceandkeepwhiskinguntilitfoamsandbecomeswhite.

2.Placethegelatinmixtureinamedium-sizesaucepanoverlowheat,mixingwithaspoonuntilitdissolves.Addthesugarallatonceandmixwelltocombinealltheingredients.Slowlyaddtheeggyolkmixture,whiskingwelltopreventtheeggsfromcurdling.Letsimmergentlyuntilitfoams.Turnofftheheatandkeepwhiskingfor3moreminutes.

3.Pourthemixtureintoabowlandallowtocoolfor10minutes.

4.Blendtheaçaípulpwiththeliqueur.

5.Whenthegelatinmixturehascooled,foldintheaçaímixture,gentlymixingthemtogether.Placethebowlinthefreezerfor15minutesoruntilthesidesoftheaçaicongealandthecenteroftheaçaiissoft.

6.Beattheeggwhiteswithapinchofsaltintoastiff,shinypeak.Addtheconfectioners’sugarandbeatagainfor10seconds.Taketheaçaibowloutofthe

confectioners’sugarandbeatagainfor10seconds.Taketheaçaibowloutofthefreezer.Gentlyfold1/3ofthebeateneggwhitesintotheaçaímixture,makingcircularmotionswithaspatula.Addanother1/3oftheeggwhitesandfoldingently.Now,reversetheprocessandslowlypourtheaçaímixtureintothebowlwiththeeggwhitesandfoldinthesameway.

7.Take6wineglassesorservingbowlsanddistributethemousseequally.Refrigeratefor1hourandgarnishwithmintsprigs.

BrazilNutCookies

Yields35

1/4poundBrazilnuts1/2cupbutter,softened1/2cupsugar,plus1cuptocoatthecookies1/2cupflour1/2cupcornmeal

1.Gratethenutsandreserve.

2.Inalargebowl,mixthebutterwith1/2cupsugar.Inanotherlargebowl,combinetheflourandnutswiththecornmeal.Addthecombineddryingredientstothefirstbowlandworkwellwithbothhandstomixtheingredientsuntilalargeballisformed.

3.Preheattheovento375degreesF.Coveracookiesheetwithparchmentpaper(donotgreasethecookiesheet).Place1cupsugaronaplate.

4.Rollatablespoonofcookiedoughintoaballthesizeofalargestrawberry.Rollthecookiesinthesugarandarrangetheminarowonthecookiesheet.

5.Bakefor10minutesoruntiltheyarelightgoldenbrown.Servethecookiesatroomtemperature.

PudimdeTapioca(CaramelizedTapiocaFlan)

Serves8

2/3cupunsweetenedcoconutmilk1/2cupmilk1-1/4cupstapiocaflour5wholeeggs1(12-ounce)cancondensedmilk1tablespoonbutter1-2/3cupscream

Caramel

2cupssugar4tablespoonswater

1.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthecoconutmilkandmilk.Placethetapiocaflourinatrayandpourthehotmilkontopofit.Usingafork,gentlymakeacoupleoflinesinordertoallowtheliquidtogothroughthetapiocagrains(donotmixit).Letitsoakfor2hours.

2.Usinganelectricbeater,beattheeggsvigorouslyuntiltheyfoam.Addthecondensedmilkandthenthebutter.Asyoucontinuebeating,addthecreamandfinallythesoakedtapioca.

3.Forthecaramel:Placethesugarandwaterinasaucepanoverlowheatandsimmerthesugarslowly,watchingcloselysoitdoesn’tburn.Whenitbeginstoturnagoldencolor,turnofftheheat.Takeanovenproofmoldlargeenoughtohold5cupsandcoatitcompletelywiththecaramel.Setitaside.

4.Preheattheovento350degreesF.Gentlypourthetapiocabatterintothecaramelizedmold.Placealargerbakingpanintheovenandcarefullypour6cupsofboilingwaterintoit.Gentlyplacethecaramelizedmoldwithbatterinthecenterofthepanandbakefor50minutes.Checkdonenessbyplacingatoothpickinthecenteroftheflan:ifitcomesoutdry,theflanisdone.Allowtocool.

cool.

5.Invertthemoldontoaservingplateandallowcaramelfromthemoldtoflowovertopoftheflan.

CupuaçúIceCream

Serves8

1poundfrozencupuaçúpulp(youmayuseanyotherfrozentropicalfruitpulp)2-1/4cupscondensedmilk2tablespoonslimejuice

1.Inablender,combinethefrozenpulpandthecondensedmilk.Blendfor3to4minutes,stoppingacoupleoftimestounblockthefrozenpulpifnecessary.Addthelimejuiceandblendsomemore.

2.Pourthemixtureintoatransparentservingdishorstainlesssteeltrayandplaceinthefreezerforacoupleofhours.Servewithfruitsalad,cakes,orladyfingercookies.

TapiocaBlinis

Serves8

3/4cuptapioca2eggyolks,lightlybeaten3eggwhites,lightlybeaten4-1/2tablespoonscoconutmilk1-1/2cupsmilk4-1/2tablespoonscachaça2tablespoonssugar2tablespoonsbutter

1.Spreadtapiocaevenlyinathinlayeronamedium-sizetray.

2.Inamediumbowl,combinetheeggyolks,eggwhites,andcoconutmilk.Mixwellandreserve.

3.Inasmallsaucepan,bringthemilk,cachaça,andsugartoaquickboil.Totempertheeggs,add1/4cupofthemilktothebowlwiththeeggsandwhisk.Gentlypourthetemperedeggsintothesaucepan,whiskingrapidly.

4.Pourtheliquidoverthetapiocaand,usingafork,makecirclesarounditsotheliquidsoaksintotally(donotmix).Coverandletsitfor2hours.

5.Cut3-inchcirclesinthetapioca.Justbeforeserving,heatamedium-sizeheavyskillet.Whentheskilletishot,placeadollopofbutterinit.Usingaspatula,place2circlesatatimeintheskillet.Searthetapiocablinisonbothsidesuntiltheyturngolden.

6.Place1blinionanindividualplateandserveimmediatelywithicecreamorsorbet.Garnishwithflowersormint.

PineappleAluá

Serves8

1medium-sizeripepineapple8cupswaterSugar(optional)Mintleaves

1.Washthepineapplewell.Removetheskinbycutting1/4inchintothefruitsothepeelhasalayerofthefruit.Placethepineapplepeelsinsideanattractivetransparentjarandaddwater.Mixlightlyandletsitfor3hours.

2.Cutoutthecoreofthepineappleandcutthepineappleintosmallsquares.Placethepineappleinablenderandprocessuntilitbecomesliquid.

3.Usingajarandstrainer,straintheprocessedpineapplebypressinghardtogetthemaximumoutofthefruit.Addsugar,ifusingit.

4.Pourthejuiceintoicecubetraysandfreeze.

5.Toserve,pourthestrainedpinea