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ContentsIntroduction 04

The Power of the Bean 06

Saving the Planet 09

The Wind Factor 10

All You Need to Know 12

How to Buy 12To Soak or Not to Soak? 14Cooking From Scratch 15Making Your Beans Sing 17Storing Cooked Beans 17Perfect Partners 18Sprouting 20Using the Recipes 23

Nibbles, Dips and Purées 24Fritters, Pancakes and Patties 48Soups 68Stylish Starters 96Salads 112Sides 142Vegetarian Mains 170The Full Monty 202Sweet Bits 234Sauces, Salsas and Seasonings 242Basics 248

Beans: The Identification Parade 252

Index 266Acknowledgments 271About the Author 272

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Introduction

Beans, or legumes, are some of my favorite things to

eat, and that’s after a year and a half of cooking and

consuming them almost every day. Yes, you would

hope that I’d be passionate about my subject, but my

family had no choice in the matter as they became

my guinea pigs. So you just can’t imagine how thrilled I was when, after months of legume exposure, my six-year-old daughter opted for the Syrian lentils on a restaurant menu. The exciting thing is that beans, chickpeas and lentils offer such incredible scope, from the comforting creaminess of Italian chickpea soup to the zippy freshness of edamame, crab and noodle salad. You need never tire of them. Legumes are some of the most versatile, delicious and rewarding ingredients in the kitchen. I want to eat beans firstly because they taste fabulous; all the other plus points, and there are so many of them, come as a bonus.

I discovered legumes in Spain as a teenager. My only previous experiences were tinned baked beans and the ubiquitous 1970s’ kidney bean, green pepper and sweetcorn salad. Spanish dishes such as nutty brown lentils stewed with smoked chorizo and melt-in-the-mouth haricot beans with Catalan butifarra sausage were a revelation, a million miles away from the hemp-shirted hippy image that beans still suffered back home. Where the British saw legumes as a vegetarian domain, the Europeans bathed them in pig or duck fat in celebrated meat fests such as Spain’s

fabada and France’s cassoulet. Today the bean is emerging from its tie-dye

teepee. Beans, chickpeas and lentils are still the

mainstay of many vegan and vegetarian diets, but

attitudes and styles have changed. Legumes can be stars in their own right and not just a meat substitute. Why stuff beans in a moussaka when you could be

eating a classic Greek vegetarian dish, gigantes plaki?Vegetarian food has become so varied and exciting with all the Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian

influences we enjoy today, it’s worlds apart from the

bean flan of old, encased in hefty wholemeal pastry.

Nowadays many great restaurants serve up

wonderful legumes. Who would have believed that

the humble lentil could become trendy? But then

camping has dumped its nylon-cagoule image and reinvented itself as glamping, and even that swirly kaftan of your mother’s has become boho-chic. I believe our passion for beans is much more than a fashion. The bean is real food, it’s here to stay, and here’s why.

Most of us are reassessing what we eat for a number of reasons, the first being money. Reducing what you spend on food doesn’t have to mean buying cheap junk food, it just requires some planning and good recipes that you actually use. Beans are remarkably cheap, especially if you buy them dried – but if you’re short of time, even canned beans are very economical. Gingery dal with a spiced tarka tipped over the top, served with some rice or flatbread, is one of my favorite suppers ever and it costs only a few dollars.

I’m not vegetarian but, like so many people I know, I am eating less meat. I did not make a conscious decision to cut down, it’s just that, among other things, I am more cautious nowadays about where my meat comes from. Instead of having cheap meat every day, I’d much rather eat more expensive

but better-tasting meat once a week, or in smaller quantities alongside my beans, knowing that the animal it came from was healthy and well-treated,

and the meat well-hung and butchered with care.

Fish is a treat, but there are sustainability issues and it can be very pricey. However, you can savor a small but exquisite, carefully sourced bit of seafood with

some filling legumes and feel perfectly satisfied. By

cutting down on the meat and fish you eat, you are doing your bit for the planet too.

Pulse_001_023cor.indd 4 04/10/2013 15:10

Introduction

Beans, or legumes, are some of my favorite things to

eat, and that’s after a year and a half of cooking and

consuming them almost every day. Yes, you would

hope that I’d be passionate about my subject, but my

family had no choice in the matter as they became

my guinea pigs. So you just can’t imagine how thrilled I was when, after months of legume exposure, my six-year-old daughter opted for the Syrian lentils on a restaurant menu. The exciting thing is that beans, chickpeas and lentils offer such incredible scope, from the comforting creaminess of Italian chickpea soup to the zippy freshness of edamame, crab and noodle salad. You need never tire of them. Legumes are some of the most versatile, delicious and rewarding ingredients in the kitchen. I want to eat beans firstly because they taste fabulous; all the other plus points, and there are so many of them, come as a bonus.

I discovered legumes in Spain as a teenager. My only previous experiences were tinned baked beans and the ubiquitous 1970s’ kidney bean, green pepper and sweetcorn salad. Spanish dishes such as nutty brown lentils stewed with smoked chorizo and melt-in-the-mouth haricot beans with Catalan butifarra sausage were a revelation, a million miles away from the hemp-shirted hippy image that beans still suffered back home. Where the British saw legumes as a vegetarian domain, the Europeans bathed them in pig or duck fat in celebrated meat fests such as Spain’s

fabada and France’s cassoulet. Today the bean is emerging from its tie-dye

teepee. Beans, chickpeas and lentils are still the

mainstay of many vegan and vegetarian diets, but

attitudes and styles have changed. Legumes can be stars in their own right and not just a meat substitute. Why stuff beans in a moussaka when you could be

eating a classic Greek vegetarian dish, gigantes plaki?Vegetarian food has become so varied and exciting with all the Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian

influences we enjoy today, it’s worlds apart from the

bean flan of old, encased in hefty wholemeal pastry.

Nowadays many great restaurants serve up

wonderful legumes. Who would have believed that

the humble lentil could become trendy? But then

camping has dumped its nylon-cagoule image and reinvented itself as glamping, and even that swirly kaftan of your mother’s has become boho-chic. I believe our passion for beans is much more than a fashion. The bean is real food, it’s here to stay, and here’s why.

Most of us are reassessing what we eat for a number of reasons, the first being money. Reducing what you spend on food doesn’t have to mean buying cheap junk food, it just requires some planning and good recipes that you actually use. Beans are remarkably cheap, especially if you buy them dried – but if you’re short of time, even canned beans are very economical. Gingery dal with a spiced tarka tipped over the top, served with some rice or flatbread, is one of my favorite suppers ever and it costs only a few dollars.

I’m not vegetarian but, like so many people I know, I am eating less meat. I did not make a conscious decision to cut down, it’s just that, among other things, I am more cautious nowadays about where my meat comes from. Instead of having cheap meat every day, I’d much rather eat more expensive

but better-tasting meat once a week, or in smaller quantities alongside my beans, knowing that the animal it came from was healthy and well-treated,

and the meat well-hung and butchered with care.

Fish is a treat, but there are sustainability issues and it can be very pricey. However, you can savor a small but exquisite, carefully sourced bit of seafood with

some filling legumes and feel perfectly satisfied. By

cutting down on the meat and fish you eat, you are doing your bit for the planet too.

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introduction 5

Beans are, without a doubt, wonderfully good for

you and, with cases of obesity reaching record levels,

we really do need to rethink what we’re consuming.

I love food and I love cooking, so I quite naturally

gravitate towards simple unadulterated ingredients. Legumes, whether dried, canned or frozen, are just that; you know what you are getting. It’s up to you whether you prepare them as an indulgent feast or as a healthy salad.

Millions of legume dishes are cooked every day. Beans are a staple in much of the developing world and they have played a vital role in the Western diet for centuries too, so every continent, country and region has its own classic ways. This book is not a collection of the most traditional or even the most famous recipes (I know that I will have offended many a bean enthusiast by omitting their local dish), but an eclectic mix of dishes using accessible ingredients that I love to cook, share and eat.

Many of my friends, and the students on my cooking courses, seem rather lost when it comes to beans. They have only a few ideas up their sleeve when it comes to preparing them at home. This book should help you decide what to buy from the ever-increasing selection of beans on offer in health food shops, delis and supermarkets. More and more households have mixed eating habits too, so it’s useful to have dishes in

your repertoire to keep the vegetarians and, with some minor tweaking, the carnivores happy too. I aim to demystify all the soaking and cooking conundrums –

legumes really are a cinch to cook. Above all, I hope

these recipes will inspire, get you cooking and leave you, quite literally, full of beans.

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104 stylish starters

... using streaky bacon instead of

the chorizo.

... adding some shards of crisped

prosciutto (see p.250).

... serving the purée with grilled fish

or lamb.

Scallops are, without a doubt, one of my desert island dishes. I’m so predictable,

I just can’t ignore them on a restaurant menu. The combination with pea purée

is a classic and tastes even more wonderful with a bit of pork thrown in. Do try

to find the soft cooking chorizo if you can, otherwise the result can be quite

leathery (if you can only find the firmer, hard-cure chorizo, I would dice it finely

before frying).

Seek out diver-caught scallops whenever possible: their harvesting is kinder

to the seabed than those caught in drag nets. Fresh is best too, as many frozen

scallops are plumped with huge amounts of water, which makes their texture

mushy and the surface impossible to sear and caramelize.

Pan-seared scallops with chorizo and pea purée

Remove and discard the white muscle and frill from around the outside of the

scallops and cut off the crescent of orangey coral. Toss the scallops and coral in

the olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Set aside in the fridge.

Heat a large heavy-bottomed frying pan over a low heat and cook the chorizo

gently for about 5 minutes. You won’t need any oil if you go slow, as the fat in

the sausage will render. Keep the chorizo warm in a low oven and leave the bright

orange cooking oil in the pan.

Heat the chicken stock in a pan and throw in the peas with a good pinch of salt.

Bring to the boil and then add the mint. Drain and then purée the peas in a

food processor or using a hand-held blender, add the extra-virgin olive oil, taste

and season.

Heat a griddle pan or a heavy-bottomed pan until smoking hot. Add the scallops

and sear for about a minute on each side, resisting the temptation to poke and

move them around. You may need to cook them in 2 batches (if too crowded

they’ll steam rather than fry). Sear the coral too.

Spoon some pea purée onto 4 warmed plates, top with the scallops, coral and

the chorizo.

Add the sherry vinegar to the chorizo cooking oil along with a tablespoon of water,

swirl over a high heat and then spoon over the scallops. Serve at once.

Serves 4

12 scallops – or 8 if they are particularly large

1 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

100 g/31⁄2 oz mild, soft chorizo cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces

200 ml/7 fl oz/3⁄4 cup chicken stock

250 g/9 oz/13⁄4 cups frozen peas,

ideally small green peas

3 or 4 fresh mint leaves

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp sherry vinegar

How about?

Pulse_096_111cor.indd 104 04/10/2013 15:13

Pulse_096_111cor.indd 104 09/05/2013 12:24

104 stylish starters

... using streaky bacon instead of

the chorizo.

... adding some shards of crisped

prosciutto (see p.250).

... serving the purée with grilled fish

or lamb.

Scallops are, without a doubt, one of my desert island dishes. I’m so predictable,

I just can’t ignore them on a restaurant menu. The combination with pea purée

is a classic and tastes even more wonderful with a bit of pork thrown in. Do try

to find the soft cooking chorizo if you can, otherwise the result can be quite

leathery (if you can only find the firmer, hard-cure chorizo, I would dice it finely

before frying).

Seek out diver-caught scallops whenever possible: their harvesting is kinder

to the seabed than those caught in drag nets. Fresh is best too, as many frozen

scallops are plumped with huge amounts of water, which makes their texture

mushy and the surface impossible to sear and caramelize.

Pan-seared scallops with chorizo and pea purée

Remove and discard the white muscle and frill from around the outside of the

scallops and cut off the crescent of orangey coral. Toss the scallops and coral in

the olive oil and sprinkle with pepper. Set aside in the fridge.

Heat a large heavy-bottomed frying pan over a low heat and cook the chorizo

gently for about 5 minutes. You won’t need any oil if you go slow, as the fat in

the sausage will render. Keep the chorizo warm in a low oven and leave the bright

orange cooking oil in the pan.

Heat the chicken stock in a pan and throw in the peas with a good pinch of salt.

Bring to the boil and then add the mint. Drain and then purée the peas in a

food processor or using a hand-held blender, add the extra-virgin olive oil, taste

and season.

Heat a griddle pan or a heavy-bottomed pan until smoking hot. Add the scallops

and sear for about a minute on each side, resisting the temptation to poke and

move them around. You may need to cook them in 2 batches (if too crowded

they’ll steam rather than fry). Sear the coral too.

Spoon some pea purée onto 4 warmed plates, top with the scallops, coral and

the chorizo.

Add the sherry vinegar to the chorizo cooking oil along with a tablespoon of water,

swirl over a high heat and then spoon over the scallops. Serve at once.

Serves 4

12 scallops – or 8 if they are particularly large

1 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

100 g/31⁄2 oz mild, soft chorizo cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces

200 ml/7 fl oz/3⁄4 cup chicken stock

250 g/9 oz/13⁄4 cups frozen peas,

ideally small green peas

3 or 4 fresh mint leaves

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp sherry vinegar

How about?

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204 the full monty

You might like to garnish the top of this dish with a few whole, shell-on shrimp,

but don’t underestimate the flavor you will get by making a stock with most

of the heads. True seafood lovers suck and chew the heads with gusto, while

most people just shove them to the side of the plate – it’s a crime to see all that

flavor go to waste.

Smoky shrimp with chickpeas and aioli

Remove the heads from the shrimps and place them in a small saucepan with

1 tablespoon of the oil. The tails are up to you: shell-on will be messier to eat

but give you juicier shrimp, shell-off will be a more elegant dining experience

(and the shells can join the heads in the pan).

Fry off the heads until they begin to turn pink and then add 3 tablespoons of

water. Now you need to crush the heads to release all the fabulous flavor. You

can use a mouli legumes, a potato masher and then push the juices through a

sieve, or a potato ricer, which looks like a giant garlic press. Set aside the deep

orange, shrimp juices.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan, ideally something you can put on the

table, and cook the onion until soft. Add the diced potatoes, chickpeas, a pinch of

salt and the shrimp juices, and stir around carefully. Leave over a low heat.

Sprinkle the shrimp with the paprika. Heat the remaining oil in your largest

frying pan and throw in the shrimp. As soon as you can really smell the paprika,

it’s time to add the wine and the tomatoes. Cook until the shrimp are just firm

and the flesh is opaque.

Tip the shrimp, tomatoes and juices over the chickpeas, sprinkle with parsley,

taste and season.

Serve with a slice of lemon and generous quantities of aioli. You can worry about

the garlic later (Campari works wonders).

... replacing the shrimp with squid or

cuttlefish; just add a dash of fish stock

instead of the shrimp juice.

How about?

Serves 4

16–24 shell-on raw shrimp

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, diced

2 old-crop potatoes, diced and cooked

until tender

500 g/1 lb 2 oz home-cooked or 2 x 400g/

14 oz cans of chickpeas (garbanzo beans)

salt

1 tbsp hot smoked paprika

75 ml/2½ fl oz/5 tbsp dry white wine

200 g/7 oz cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

TO SERVE

4 lemon slices

aioli (see p.242)

Pulse_202_233cor.indd 204 04/10/2013 15:17

204 the full monty

You might like to garnish the top of this dish with a few whole, shell-on shrimp,

but don’t underestimate the flavor you will get by making a stock with most

of the heads. True seafood lovers suck and chew the heads with gusto, while

most people just shove them to the side of the plate – it’s a crime to see all that

flavor go to waste.

Smoky shrimp with chickpeas and aioli

Remove the heads from the shrimps and place them in a small saucepan with

1 tablespoon of the oil. The tails are up to you: shell-on will be messier to eat

but give you juicier shrimp, shell-off will be a more elegant dining experience

(and the shells can join the heads in the pan).

Fry off the heads until they begin to turn pink and then add 3 tablespoons of

water. Now you need to crush the heads to release all the fabulous flavor. You

can use a mouli legumes, a potato masher and then push the juices through a

sieve, or a potato ricer, which looks like a giant garlic press. Set aside the deep

orange, shrimp juices.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan, ideally something you can put on the

table, and cook the onion until soft. Add the diced potatoes, chickpeas, a pinch of

salt and the shrimp juices, and stir around carefully. Leave over a low heat.

Sprinkle the shrimp with the paprika. Heat the remaining oil in your largest

frying pan and throw in the shrimp. As soon as you can really smell the paprika,

it’s time to add the wine and the tomatoes. Cook until the shrimp are just firm

and the flesh is opaque.

Tip the shrimp, tomatoes and juices over the chickpeas, sprinkle with parsley,

taste and season.

Serve with a slice of lemon and generous quantities of aioli. You can worry about

the garlic later (Campari works wonders).

... replacing the shrimp with squid or

cuttlefish; just add a dash of fish stock

instead of the shrimp juice.

How about?

Serves 4

16–24 shell-on raw shrimp

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, diced

2 old-crop potatoes, diced and cooked

until tender

500 g/1 lb 2 oz home-cooked or 2 x 400g/

14 oz cans of chickpeas (garbanzo beans)

salt

1 tbsp hot smoked paprika

75 ml/2½ fl oz/5 tbsp dry white wine

200 g/7 oz cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley

TO SERVE

4 lemon slices

aioli (see p.242)

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174 vegetarian mains

Today’s recipes often call for all sorts of weird and wonderful ingredients destined

to languish in the back of the pantry until they reach their ‘best before’ date. You

might consider this sweet-and-sour pomegranate molasses to be one of them.

Think again. The syrup makes a fabulous Middle Eastern dressing with a touch of

lemon juice and plenty of olive oil, and can be brushed on roasting chicken, duck

or lamb for a glorious glaze, is fantastically refreshing when mixed with chilled

fizzy water and seems to keep ad infinitum. Naturally sweet root vegetables and

chickpeas make a great combination with the yogurt, but it’s the pomegranate

molasses and spices that lift this dish onto another plain.

Roasted roots with chickpeas

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas mark 6.

Toss the carrots and parsnips in a large roasting pan with 2 tablespoons of the

olive oil and a little salt. If the pan is large enough, use a small corner for the beets

and toss that in the remaining oil; otherwise you will require a separate pan. Try

not to toss the beets with the other vegetables at any stage, otherwise your entire

dish will turn a rather unappetizing, lurid pink.

Roast the vegetables for about 15 minutes, then add the chickpeas. Turn the

vegetables carefully and roll the chickpeas around to pick up any oil in the pan.

Roast for a further 10 minutes, then tip over the molasses and scatter with

the spices. Turn the vegetables in the sticky syrup and roast for a further

5–10 minutes, until just tender, but not soft, and starting to brown. Season

well with salt, a bit more chili or pepper, some lemon juice and a dash of extra-

virgin olive oil.

Pile the vegetables on a large platter and scatter with the herbs. Serve hot or warm,

with a bowl of yogurt to spoon out at the table.

... adding pumpkin, sweet potato

or celery root to the mix.

... piling the roots and chickpeas on

top of some cooked wheat berries,

barley or spelt (see p.18) for a really

nutritious hearty meal.

... serving this as a side dish with lamb

or chicken.

How about?

Serves 4

400 g/14 oz carrots, preferably small ones, halved if large

3 parsnips, quartered lengthwise, woody core removed

4 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

300 g/10½ oz beets, peeled and cut into quarters

or bite-sized chunks

250 g/9 oz home-cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans)

or 1 x 400g/14 oz can of chickpeas

4 tbsp pomegranate molasses

1 tsp caraway seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp chili flakes or milder Aleppo chili flakes

juice of 1 lemon

extra-virgin olive oil

large handful of flat-leaf parsley, cilantro (cilantro)

or a mixture of both, chopped

250 g/9 oz Greek-style yogurt

Pulse_170_201cor.indd 174 04/10/2013 15:16

174 vegetarian mains

Today’s recipes often call for all sorts of weird and wonderful ingredients destined

to languish in the back of the pantry until they reach their ‘best before’ date. You

might consider this sweet-and-sour pomegranate molasses to be one of them.

Think again. The syrup makes a fabulous Middle Eastern dressing with a touch of

lemon juice and plenty of olive oil, and can be brushed on roasting chicken, duck

or lamb for a glorious glaze, is fantastically refreshing when mixed with chilled

fizzy water and seems to keep ad infinitum. Naturally sweet root vegetables and

chickpeas make a great combination with the yogurt, but it’s the pomegranate

molasses and spices that lift this dish onto another plain.

Roasted roots with chickpeas

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas mark 6.

Toss the carrots and parsnips in a large roasting pan with 2 tablespoons of the

olive oil and a little salt. If the pan is large enough, use a small corner for the beets

and toss that in the remaining oil; otherwise you will require a separate pan. Try

not to toss the beets with the other vegetables at any stage, otherwise your entire

dish will turn a rather unappetizing, lurid pink.

Roast the vegetables for about 15 minutes, then add the chickpeas. Turn the

vegetables carefully and roll the chickpeas around to pick up any oil in the pan.

Roast for a further 10 minutes, then tip over the molasses and scatter with

the spices. Turn the vegetables in the sticky syrup and roast for a further

5–10 minutes, until just tender, but not soft, and starting to brown. Season

well with salt, a bit more chili or pepper, some lemon juice and a dash of extra-

virgin olive oil.

Pile the vegetables on a large platter and scatter with the herbs. Serve hot or warm,

with a bowl of yogurt to spoon out at the table.

... adding pumpkin, sweet potato

or celery root to the mix.

... piling the roots and chickpeas on

top of some cooked wheat berries,

barley or spelt (see p.18) for a really

nutritious hearty meal.

... serving this as a side dish with lamb

or chicken.

How about?

Serves 4

400 g/14 oz carrots, preferably small ones, halved if large

3 parsnips, quartered lengthwise, woody core removed

4 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

300 g/10½ oz beets, peeled and cut into quarters

or bite-sized chunks

250 g/9 oz home-cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans)

or 1 x 400g/14 oz can of chickpeas

4 tbsp pomegranate molasses

1 tsp caraway seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp chili flakes or milder Aleppo chili flakes

juice of 1 lemon

extra-virgin olive oil

large handful of flat-leaf parsley, cilantro (cilantro)

or a mixture of both, chopped

250 g/9 oz Greek-style yogurt

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ON SALE APRIL 2014

To order book, scan here

sterlingpublishing.com

Beans are among the healthiest, most delicious foods on earth—and The Better Bean Cookbook is the essential modern guide to preparing them. This stunning volume features an illustrated guide to all dried beans, chickpeas, and lentils, along with advice on buying and cooking them to achieve the utmost flavor and nutrition. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will enjoy the enticing dishes.

Jenny Chandler teaches regularly in London and Bath and currently runs the Plum Cooking School in Bristol. She has made several television appearances on the BBC, HTV, and Carlton Food Network in Britain. She is a highly respected consultant on Spanish food for restaurants in London, Barcelona, and Madrid. Her cookbooks include The Food of Northern Spain and The Real Taste of Spain (both published by Pavilion). Jenny lives in Bristol, England.

DISCLAIMERReviewers are reminded that changes may be made in this uncorrected proof before books are printed. If any material from the book is to be quoted in a review, the quotation should be checked against the final bound book. Dates, prices, and manufacturing details are subject to change or cancellation without notice.

For more information, contact Blanca Oliviery at (646) 688-2548 or boliviery@sterlingpublishing.com

APRIL 2014Culinary/Healthy Cooking$24.95 ($26.95 Can) • Hardcover with Jacket7 ¾ x 10 • 272 pages all in color978-1-4549-1161-6

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