The Best of The Bahamas

The Bahamas (that’s with a capital “T”) is one of the most geographically compli-cated nations of the Atlantic. A coral-based archipelago, it is composed of more than700 islands, 2,000 cays (pronounced “keys,” from the Spanish word for small islands),and hundreds of rocky outcroppings that have damaged the hulls of countless shipssince colonial days.

The Commonwealth of The Bahamas came into being in 1973 after centuries ofcolonial rule. After Great Britain granted The Bahamas internal self-rule in 1964, thefledgling nation adopted its own constitution but chose not to sever its ties with itsmotherland. It has remained in the Commonwealth, with the British monarch as itshead of state. In the British tradition, The Bahamas has a two-house Parliament, aministerial cabinet headed by a prime minister, and an independent judiciary. Thequeen appoints a Bahamian governor-general to represent the Crown.

As The Bahamas moves deeper into the millennium, the government and variousinvestors continue to pump money into the tourism infrastructure, especially on Para-dise Island, across from Nassau, as well as Freeport/Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island.Cruise-ship tourism continues to increase, and a more upscale crowd is coming backafter abandoning The Bahamas for many years in favor of other Caribbean islandssuch as St. Barts and Anguilla.

When Hubert Ingraham became prime minister in 1992, he launched the countrydown the long road toward regaining its market share of tourism, which under PrimeMinister Lynden Pindling had seen a rapid decline. Exit polls revealed some first-timevisitors vowing never to return to The Bahamas under the administration of the noto-rious Pindling, whose government had taken over a number of hotels and failed tomaintain them properly.

When Ingraham took over as prime minister, however, he wisely recognized thatthe government wasn’t supposed to be in the hospitality business and turned manyproperties back over to the professionals. After a painful slump, tourism in the post-Pindling era is booming again in The Bahamas, and more than 1.6 million visitorsfrom all over the world now flock here annually. In the capital of Nassau, it’s easy tosee where the government’s money is being spent: on widened roads, repaved side-walks, underground phone cables, massive landscaping, sweeping esplanades, acleanup campaign, and additional police officers walking the beat to cut down oncrime.

Perry Gladstone Christie—who was elected prime minister in the 2002 generalelections—continues to carry out those same policies to better Nassau. Christie is theleader of the Progressive Liberal Party.

Unlike Haiti and Jamaica, The Bahamas has remained politically stable and made thetransition from minority white rule to black majority rule with relatively little tension.

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Miami

WALKER’S CAYSTRANGER’S CAY

Freeport/Lucaya

MarshHarbour

MORES ISLAND

ELBOW CAY

HARBOUR ISLAND

ANDROS ISLAND

Spanish Wells

Governor’sHarbour

Nassau NEWPROVIDENCEISLAND

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Nor thwe s t Prov idence Channel

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BIMINI ISLANDS

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ELEUTHERAISLAND

GREAT GUANACAY

GREAT EXUMA

LITTLEEXUMA

FLAMINGOCAY

JAMAICA CAY

RAGGEDISLANDS

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EXUMAISLANDS

PARADISEISLAND

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The Best Beaches of The Bahamas

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T H E B E S T O F T H E B A H A M A S 5

Freeport

A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

TURKSISLANDS

Deadman’s Cay

CAT ISLAND

SAN SALVADOR

RUM CAY

LONGISLAND

ACKLINSISLAND

CROOKEDISLAND

MAYAGUANAISLAND

LITTLE INAGUA

PROVIDENCIALES

CAICOSISLANDS

GREAT INAGUA

MIDDLE CAICOS

NORTHCAICOS

EAST CAICOS

SOUTHCAICOS

GRANDTURK

ISLAND

Tropic of Cancer

PINE CAY

SALTCAY

CockburnTown

StellaMaris

GraceBay

T U R K S A N D C A I C O SI S L A N D S

( U . K . )

THE BEST BEACHESCabbage Beach 4Cable Beach 3Cat Island’s Beaches 9Pink Sands Beach 5Saddle Cay 6Stocking Island 8Tahiti Beach 2Ten Bay Beach 7Xanadu Beach 1

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Beaches 101: Paradise Island, Cable Beach & More

In The Bahamas, the issue about public access to beaches is a hot and con-troversial subject. Recognizing this, the government has made efforts tointersperse public beaches near private ones, where access would otherwisebe impeded. Although megaresorts discourage nonguests from easy accessto their individual beaches, there are so many public beaches on New Provi-dence Island and Paradise Island that all a beach lover has to do is stop hisor her car (or walk) to many of the unmarked, unnamed beaches that flankthese islands.

If you stay in one of the large beachfront resorts, all you need to do isleave the grounds of the hotel and head for the ocean via the sand in frontthe resort. But if your accommodation is not beachfront or you want toexplore another beach, here are a few details:

Cabbage Beach . On Paradise Island, this is the real showcase, withbroad, white sands that stretch for at least 3km (2 miles). Casuarinas, palms,and sea grapes border it. While it’s likely to be crowded in winter, you canfind a little more elbowroom by walking to the northwestern stretch of thebeach. You can reach Paradise Island from downtown Nassau by walkingover the bridge, taking a taxi, or boarding a ferryboat at Prince GeorgeDock. Cabbage Beach does not have public facilities but you can patronizeone of the handful of bars and restaurants nearby and use their facilities.Technically, you should be a customer even if that means buying only adrink, even a Coca-Cola.

Cable Beach . No particular beach is actually called Cable Beach, yet thisis the most popular beachfront on New Providence Island. Instead of anactual beach, Cable Beach is the name given to a string of resorts andbeaches that lie in the center of New Providence’s northern coast, attractingthe most visitors. This beachfront offers 6.5km (4 miles) of soft white sand,and the types of food, restaurants, snack bars, and watersports offered atthe hotels lining the waterfront vary. Calypso music floats to the sand fromhotel pool patios where vacationers play musical chairs and see how lowthey can limbo. Vendors wind their way between sunblock-slathered bodies.Some sell armloads of shell jewelry, T-shirts, beach cover-ups, and freshcoconuts for sipping the sweet “water” straight from the shell. Others offertheir hair-braiding services or sign up visitors for water-skiing, jet-skiing,and banana boat rides. Kiosks advertise parasailing, scuba diving, and snor-keling trips, as well as party cruises to offshore islands. Waters can be roughand reefy, then calm and clear a little farther along the shore. There are nopublic toilets here, because guests of the resorts use their hotel facilities. If

Economic conditions have slowly improved here as well. You do not see thewretched poverty in Nassau that you see in, say, Kingston, Jamaica, though many poorresidents do still live on New Providence Island’s “Over-the-Hill” section, an area wherefew tourists venture to visit (although the neighborhood is gritty and fascinating).

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you’re not a guest of the hotel, or not a customer, you are not supposed touse the facilities. The Cable Beach resorts begin 4.8km (3 miles) west ofdowntown Nassau. Even though resorts line much of this long swath ofbeach, there are various sections where public access is available withoutcrossing through private hotel grounds.

Caves Beach. On the north shore, past the Cable Beach Properties, Caves Beachlies some 11km (7 miles) west of Nassau. It stands near Rock Point, right beforethe turnoff along Blake Road that leads to the airport. Since visitors oftendon’t know of this beach, it’s another good spot to escape the hordes. It’salso a good beach with soft sands. There are no toilets or changing facilities.

Delaporte Beach. Just west of the busiest section of Cable Beach, DelaporteBeach is a public access beach where you can escape the crowds. It opensonto clear waters and boasts white sands, although it has no facilities.Nonetheless, it’s an option.

Goodman’s Bay. This public beach lies east of Cable Beach on the waytoward the center of Nassau. Goodman’s Bay and Saunders Beach (seebelow) often host local fundraising cookouts, where vendors sell fish,chicken, conch, peas ’n’ rice, or macaroni and cheese. People swim andsocialize to blaring reggae and calypso music. To find out when one of thesebeach parties is happening, ask the staff at your hotel or pick up a localnewspaper. There is a playground here, plus toilet facilities.

Paradise Beach . On Paradise Island, this is one of the best beaches in theentire area. The white sandy beach is dotted with chikees (thatched huts),which are perfect when you’ve had too much of the sun. Mainly used byguests of the Atlantis Resort (p. 18), it lies at the far western tip of theisland. If you’re not a resident, access is difficult. If you’re staying at a hotelin Nassau and want to come to Paradise Island for a day at the beach, it’sbetter to go to Cabbage Beach (see above).

Saunders Beach. East of Cable Beach, this is where many islanders go on theweekends. To reach it, take West Bay Street from Nassau in the direction ofCoral Island. The beach lies across from Fort Charlotte, just west of ArawakCay. Like Goodman’s Bay (see above), it often hosts local fundraising cookoutsopen to the public. These can be a lot of fun. There are no public facilities.

Western Esplanade (also called Junkanoo Beach). If you’re staying at a hotelin downtown Nassau, such as the British Colonial Hilton (p. 76), this is agood beach to patronize close to town. The narrow strip of sand is conven-ient to Nassau and has toilets, changing facilities, and a snack bar.

Nassau really is the true The Bahamas. You’d think a city so close to the U.S. mainland would have been long since overpowered by American culture. Yet, except for some fast-food chain outlets, American pop music, and Hollywood films,Nassau retains a surprising amount of its traditionally British feel. (By contrast,

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Freeport/Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island has become almost completely American-ized, with little British aura or Bahamian tradition left.)

The biggest changes have occurred in the hotel sector. Sun International has vastlyexpanded its Atlantis property on Paradise Island, turning it into a virtual water world.Even more expansions have been announced, to be completed between now and late2007. The Hilton interests have developed the decaying old British Colonial in Nas-sau, restoring it to life.

And Grand Bahama Island is in an interesting state of flux. Hotels along the entireLucayan strip are being either built from scratch or upgraded.

If there’s a downside to this boom, it’s the emphasis on megahotels and casinos—and the corresponding lack of focus on the Out Islands, which include the Abacos,Andros, Bimini, Cat Island, Eleuthera, the Exumas, Long Island, and San Salvador.Large resort chains, with the exception of Four Seasons and Club Med, have ignoredthese islands; most continue to slumber away in relative seclusion and poverty. Otherthan the Four Seasons megaresort that recently opened in the Exumas—completewith an 18-hole golf course—development in the drowsy Out Islands has been minor.The very lack of progress here will continue to attract a certain breed of adventurousexplorer, the one who shuns the resorts and casinos of Paradise Island, Cable Beach,and Freeport/Lucaya. Little change in this Out Islands–versus-the-rest situation isanticipated in the immediate future, except for the island chain of Eleuthera, which isplanning to open several boutique hotels in the near future.

There’s another trend to note in The Bahamas. After a long slumber, the govern-ment and many concerned citizens here have awakened to eco-tourism. More thanany government in the Caribbean except perhaps Bonaire, this nation is trying to pro-tect its natural heritage. If nothing else, residents realize this will be good for tourism,because many visitors come to The Bahamas precisely for a close encounter withnature.

Government, private companies, and environmental groups have drawn up anational framework of priorities to protect the islands. One of their first goals was tosave the nearly extinct West Indian flamingo. Today, about 60,000 flamingos inhabitGreat Inagua Island. Other programs aim to prevent the extinction of the green tur-tle, the white-crowned pigeon, the Bahamian parrot, and the New Providence iguana.

Although tourism and the environment are bouncing back, many problems stillremain for this archipelago nation. While some Bahamians seem among the friend-liest and most hospitable people in the world, others—particularly those in the touristindustry—can be downright hostile. To counter this, the government is working totrain its citizens to be more helpful, courteous, and efficient. Sometimes this traininghas been taken to heart; at other times, however, it still clearly has not. Service with asmile is not assured in The Bahamas.

Drug smuggling remains a serious problem, and regrettably there seems to be noimmediate solution. Because the country is so close to U.S. shores, it is often used asa temporary depot for drugs shipped from South America to Florida. The Bahamaspreviously developed a tradition of catering to the illicit habits of U.S. citizens, as well;during the heyday of Prohibition, long before cocaine, marijuana, and heroin wereoutlawed, many Bahamians grew rich smuggling rum into the United States. Thingshave improved, but you’ll still see stories in the newspapers about floating bales ofmarijuana turning up in the sea just off The Bahamas’ coastline and such.

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Though this illicit trade rarely affects the casual tourist, it’s important to know thatit is a factor here—and so, armed with this knowledge, don’t agree to carry any pack-ages to or from the U.S. for a stranger while you’re visiting. You could end up takinga much longer vacation on these islands than you had ever imagined.

1 The Best Beaches

T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 9

See also “Beaches 101: Paradise Island,Cable Beach & More” box on p. 6.

• Cable Beach (New ProvidenceIsland): The glittering shoreline ofCable Beach has easy access to shops,casinos, restaurants, watersports, andbars. It’s a sandy 6.5km-long (4-mile)strip, with a great array of facilitiesand activities. See p. 81.

• Cabbage Beach (Paradise Island):Think Vegas in the Tropics. It seemsas if most of the sunbathers dozing onthe sands here are recovering from theprevious evening’s partying, and it’slikely to be crowded near the mega-hotels, but you can find a bit moresolitude on the beach’s isolated north-western extension (Paradise Beach),which is accessible only by boat or onfoot. Lined with palms, sea grapes,and casuarinas, the sands are broadand stretch for at least 3km (2 miles).See p. 136.

• Xanadu Beach (Grand BahamaIsland): Grand Bahama has 97km (60miles) of sandy shoreline, but XanaduBeach is most convenient toFreeport’s resort hotels, several ofwhich offer shuttle service to Xanadu.There’s more than a kilometer ofwhite sand and (usually) gentle surf.Don’t expect to have Xanadu to your-self, but if you want more quiet andprivacy, try any of the beaches thatstretch from Xanadu for many milesin either direction. See p. 167.

• Tahiti Beach (Hope Town, the Aba-cos): Since the beach is so isolated atthe far end of Elbow Cay Island, youcan be sure that only a handful ofpeople will ever visit these cool watersand white sands. The crowds stay

away because you can’t drive to TahitiBeach: To get there, you have to walkor ride a rented bike along sand andgravel paths from Hope Town. Youcan also charter a boat to get there,which isn’t too hard, since the Abacosare the sailing capital of TheBahamas. See p. 218.

• Pink Sands Beach (Harbour Island):Running the entire length of theisland’s eastern side, these pale pinksands stretch for 5km (3 miles) past ahandful of low-rise hotels and privatevillas. A coral reef protects the shorefrom breakers, making for some ofthe safest swimming in The Bahamas.See p. 247.

• Ten Bay Beach (Eleuthera): Ten BayBeach lies a short drive south of Pal-metto Point, just north of SavannahSound. Once upon a time, the exclu-sive Cotton Bay Club chose to builda hotel here because of the fabulousscenery. There may not be facilitieshere, but now that the hotel hasclosed, the white sands and turquoisewaters here are more idyllic and pri-vate than ever. See p. 240.

• Saddle Cay (the Exumas): Most ofthe Exumas are oval-shaped islandsstrung end to end like links in a209km (130-mile) chain. Onenotable exception is Saddle Cay, withits horseshoe-shaped curve near theExumas’ northern tip. It can bereached only by boat, but onceachieved offers an unspoiled settingwithout a trace of the modernworld—and plenty of other cays andislets where you can play RobinsonCrusoe for a few hours if you like. Seep. 260.

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• Stocking Island (the Exumas): Oneof the finest white-sandy beaches inThe Bahamas lies off Elizabeth Har-bour, the main harbor of the archi-pelago, close to the little capital ofGeorge Town. You can reach Stock-ing Island easily by boat from Eliza-beth Harbour, and the sands of thisoffshore island are rarely crowded;snorkelers and divers love to exploreits gin-clear waters. In addition to itsbeach of powdery white sand, theisland is also known for its “blueholes,” coral gardens, and underseacaves. See p. 269.

• Cat Island’s Beaches: The whitesandy beaches ringing this island arepristine, opening onto crystal-clearwaters and lined with coconut palms,palmettos, and casuarina trees—and

best of all, you’ll practically have theplace to yourself. One of our favoritebeaches here, near Old Bight, has abeautiful, lazy curve of white sand.Another fabulous beach lies 5km (3miles) north of New Bight, site of theFernandez Bay Village resort. Thiscurvy, white-sandy beach is setagainst another backdrop of casuari-nas, and is idyllic and unusually tran-quil. Another good beach here is thelong, sandy stretch that opens ontoHawk’s Nest Resort & Marina on thesouthwestern side. None of the CatIsland beaches has any facilities(bring everything you need from yourhotel), but they do offer peace, quiet,and seclusion. See “Cat Island,” inchapter 10.

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2 The Best Diving• New Providence Island: Many ships

have sunk near Nassau in the past300 years, and all the dive outfittershere know the most scenic wrecksites. Other attractions are underwa-ter gardens of elkhorn coral anddozens of reefs packed with underwa-ter life. The most spectacular dive siteis the Shark Wall, 16km (10 miles)off the southwest coast of New Prov-idence; it’s blessed with incredible,colorful sea life and the healthiestcoral offshore. You’ll even get to swimwith sharks (not as bait, of course).See p. 101.

• Grand Bahama Island: The island isringed with reefs, and dive sites areplentiful, including the Wall, theCaves (site of a long-ago disasterknown as Theo’s Wreck), and Trea-sure Reef. Other popular dive sitesinclude Spit City (yes, that’s right),Ben Blue Hole, and the Rose Garden(no one knows how this one got itsname). What makes Grand BahamaIsland a cut above the others is the

presence of a world-class dive opera-tor, UNEXSO (the UnderwaterExplorer’s Society; & 800/992-DIVE or 242/373-1244; www.unexso.com). See p. 172.

• Andros: Marine life abounds in thebarrier reef off the coast of Andros,which is one of the largest in theworld and a famous destination fordivers. The reef plunges 1,800m(5,904 ft.) to a narrow drop-offknown as the Tongue of the Ocean.You can also explore mysterious blueholes, formed when subterraneancaves fill with seawater, causing theirceilings to collapse and exposingclear, deep pools. See p. 201.

• Bimini: Although Bimini is mostfamous for its game fishing, it boastsexcellent diving, too. Five kilometers(3 miles) of offshore reefs attract mil-lions of colorful fish. Even snorkelerscan see black coral gardens, blueholes, and an odd configuration onthe sea floor that is reportedly part ofthe lost continent of Atlantis (a fun

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legend, at any rate). Divers can checkout the wreck of a motorized yacht,the Sapona (owned by Henry Ford),which sank in shallow waters off thecoast in 1929. See p. 188.

• Harbour Island (Eleuthera): In addi-tion to lovely coral and an array ofcolorful fish, divers can enjoy someunique experiences here, such as theCurrent Cut, an exciting underwatergully that carries you on a swiftlyflowing underwater current for 10minutes. Four wrecked ships also lienearby, at depths of less than 12m(39 ft.), including a barge that wastransporting the engine of a steamlocomotive in 1865, reportedly afterthe American Confederacy sold it toraise cash for its war effort. See p. 254.

• Long Island (The SouthernBahamas): Snorkeling is spectacularon virtually all sides of the island. Butexperienced divers venturing intodeeper waters offshore can visitunderwater cages to feed swarms ofmako, bull, and reef sharks. Dive sitesabound, including the Arawak “greenhole,” a blue hole of incomprehensi-ble depth. See p. 288.

• Lucayan National Park: This parkon Grand Bahama Island is the site ofa 9.5km-long (6-mile), underground,freshwater cave system, the longest ofits type in the world. The largest cavecontains spiral staircases that lead

visitors into a freshwater worldinhabited by shrimp, mosquito fish,fruit bats, freshwater eels, and aspecies of crustacean (Spelionecteslucayensis) that has never been docu-mented elsewhere. On the 16-hectare(40-acre) preserve you’ll find exam-ples of the island’s five ecosystems—pine forests, rocky coppice, mangroveswamps, whiteland coppice, and sanddunes. Pause to sunbathe on a lovelystretch of sandy beach, or hike alongpaths where you can spot orchids,hummingbirds, and barn owls. Seep. 173.

• Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park:Known for its undersea caves, seem-ingly endless coral reefs, and abun-dant plant and marine life, this park,13km (8 miles) north of CherokeeSound at Great Abaco Island, is ahighlight for scuba divers. See p. 212.

• Exuma Cays National Land andSea Park: A major attraction of TheBahamas, this park is the first of itskind anywhere on the planet. The35km-long (22-mile), 13km-wide (8-mile) natural preserve attracts scubadivers to its 453 sq. km (177 sq.miles) of sea gardens with spectacularreefs, flora, and fauna. Inaugurated in1958, it lies some 35km (22 miles)northwest of Staniel Cay or 64km(40 miles) southeast of Nassau and isaccessible only by boat. See p. 269.

T H E B E S T S N O R K E L I N G 11

3 The Best Snorkeling• New Providence Island/Paradise

Island: The waters that ring denselypopulated New Providence Islandand nearby Paradise Island are easy toexplore. Most people head for theRose Island Reefs, the Gambier DeepReef, Booby Rock Channel, theGoulding Reef Cays, and some easilyseen, well-known underwater wrecksthat lie in shallow water. Virtuallyevery resort hotel on the island offers

equipment and can book you onto asnorkel cruise to sites further off-shore. See p. 100 and 137.

• Grand Bahama: Resort hotels on theisland can hook you up with snorkel-ing excursions, such as the onesoffered by Ocean Motion WaterSports Ltd. (& 242/374-2425; www.oceanmotionbahamas.com), which isthe best outfitter for snorkeling. Inaddition, the outlet can connect you

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with any number of other water-sports, from banana boating to water-skiing. The clear water around GrandBahama is wonderful for snorkelingbecause it has a rich marine life.Snorkelers are fond of exploring Ben’sCave, a stunning cavern that’s part ofLucayan Caves, as well as the coralbeds at places like Silver Point Reefand Gold Rock. See p. 172.

• Bimini: Snorkelers are enthralledwith the black coral gardens that areeasily accessible from shore, and thecolorful marine life around the island.Sometimes when conditions areright, snorkelers enjoy frolicking witha pod of spotted dolphins. Off NorthBimini, snorkelers are attracted to acluster of huge, flat rocks that jutfrom 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.) out of thewater at Paradise Point. The mostimaginative snorkelers claim theserocks, which seem hand-hewn, arepart of a road system that once tra-versed the lost continent of Atlantis.See p. 188.

• Long Island (The SouthernBahamas): Shallow bays and sandybeaches offer many possibilities forsnorkeling, and the staffs at bothmajor resorts will direct you to thefinest conditions near their stretchesof beach. The southern end of theisland is especially dramatic becauseof its unique sea cliffs. Many east-coast beach coves also offer fantasticsnorkeling opportunities. See p. 290.

• Elbow Cay: With its 209km (130-mile) string of beautiful cays, andsome of the best beaches in TheBahamas, the Abacos are ideal forsnorkeling, especially in the watersoff Elbow Cay. Visibility is often

great because the cay lies close to thecleansing waters of the Gulf Stream.Mermaid Beach, a particularly color-ful reef, is a favorite. Froggie’s OutIsland Adventures (& 242/366-0431; www.froggiesabaco.com) pro-vides equipment and the best snor-keling advice. See p. 219.

• Stocking Island: George Town is thecapital of the Exumas, which is cele-brated for its crystal clear waters sobeloved by yachties. From GeorgeTown, Stocking Island lies acrossElizabeth Harbour, which is only 1.6km (1 mile) away. Stocking Island is along, thin, barrier island that attractssnorkelers who explore its blue holes(ocean pools of fresh water floatingon heavier saltwater). The island isalso ringed with undersea caves andcoral gardens in stunning colors.You’ll also find that Stocking Islandhas some of the most gorgeous white-sand beaches in the SouthernBahamas. See p. 270.

• San Salvador: Following in the wakeof Columbus, snorkelers find a richparadise on this relatively undiscov-ered island, with its unspoiled andunpopulated kilometers of beachesthat are ideal for swimming, shelling,and close-in snorkeling. A week’s stayis enough time to become acquaintedonly with some of the possibilities,including Bamboo Point, FernandezBay, and Long Bay, which are allwithin a few kilometers of Cockburn(the main settlement) on the westernside of the island. At the southern tipof San Salvador are some of ourfavorite places for snorkeling, SandyPoint and nearby Grotto Bay. Seechapter 10.

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4 The Best Fishing• New Providence: The waters around

New Providence teem with game fish.In-the-know fishermen long ago

learned the best months to pursuetheir catch: November to Februaryfor wahoo found in the reefs, June

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and July for blue marlin, and May toAugust for the oceanic bonito andblackfin tuna. Nassau is ideal forsportfishing. Most boat chartersallow their passengers to start fishingwithin 15 minutes after leaving thedock. The best outfitter is Born FreeCharters (& 242/393-4144); anchor-ing and bottom-fishing are alsooptions. See p. 99.

• Grand Bahama: The tropical watersalong Grand Bahama lure anglers insearch of “the big one,” because theisland is home to some of the biggestgame fish on earth. Off the coast theclear waters are good huntinggrounds for snapper, grouper, yellow-tail, wahoo, barracuda, and kingfish.Many fishermen catch dolphin (wemean the mahimahi kind, not Flip-per). And Deep Water Cay is a fish-ing hot spot. The best outfitter isReef Tours, Ltd. (& 242/373-5880). See p. 170.

• Green Turtle Cay: The deep-sea fish-ing possibilities off the coast of thiscay draw anglers from all over theworld. An abundance of giant gamefish as well as tropical fish live inthese beautiful waters. Both dedi-cated fisherman and more casualanglers come to the little island seek-ing yellowfin tuna, a few dolphinfish,and the big-game wahoo, amongother catches. Green Turtle Cayboasts some of the best fishing guides

in The Bahamas, weather-beaten menwho’ve spent a lifetime fishing thesurrounding waters. The best place tohook up with one of these guides isGreen Turtle Club (& 242/365-4070). See p. 231.

• Treasure Cay: In the Abacos, some ofthe best fishing grounds are in the seabordering this remote island. At theTreasure Cay Marina (& 242/365-8250), fishermen from all over theworld hire experienced skippers totake them out in their search for bar-racuda, grouper, yellowtail, snapper,tuna, marlin, dolphinfish, andwahoo. Deep-sea, bottom-, and driftfishing are yours for the asking. Thecay’s own bonefish flats are just ashort boat cruise from the marina.See p. 225.

• The Exumas: Anglers from all overAmerica descend on this beautifularchipelago for deep-sea or bottom-fishing. Fishermen hunt for kingfish,wahoo, dolphinfish, tuna, and bonitoin the deepest waters off the coastlineof the Exumas. Many visitors also flyhere just to go bonefishing. Amongother outfitters who can hook you upwith fishing outings is Club Peace &Plenty (& 800/525-2210 or 242/336-2551), which rents the necessaryequipment and can arrange experi-enced guides to accompany you. Seep. 264.

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5 The Best Sailing• Marsh Harbour and Hope Town

(the Abacos): Known among yachtiesfor their many anchorages, shelteredcoves, and plentiful marine facilities,the Abacos are considered one of themost perfect sailing areas in theworld. You can charter boats of allshapes and sizes for a week or longer,with or without a crew. See “The

Active Vacation Planner,” in chapter 2,and p. 212 and 218 in chapter 7.

* The Exumas: Yachties head to thesebeautiful sailing waters to see some ofthe most dramatic coastal scenery inThe Bahamas. The Family IslandRegatta, the most popular boatingspectacle in The Bahamas, is held hereannually. Most of the recreational

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boating is in the government-pro-tected Exumas Cays Land and SeaPark, an area of splendid sea gardensand rainbow-hued coral reefs thatstretches south from Wax Cay toConch Cay. You can rent motorboatsat Minns Water Sports (& 242/336-3483) in George Town. Seep. 269.

• New Providence Island: Althoughsailing in the waters off New Provi-dence Island isn’t the equal of thoseyachting favorites, the Exumas and theAbacos, boaters can still find manydelights. More organized boatingexcursions are offered in New Provi-dence than anywhere else in TheBahamas, especially by outfitterssuch as Barefoot Sailing Cruises(& 242/393-0820; www.barefootsailingcruises.com) and MajesticTours Ltd. (& 242/322-2606). Youcan also choose from an array of sun-set cruises, such as the ones FlyingCloud (& 242/363-4430) featuresaboard its fleet of catamarans. Themost popular—and the most sce-nic—trip is sailing to tranquil RoseIsland, which is 13km (8 miles) eastof the center of Nassau and is reachedafter sailing past several small, unin-habited cays. In addition, BlueLagoon Island, 4.8 km (3 miles)northeast of Paradise Island, is a mag-net for boaters, offering seven whitesandy beaches along with seasidehammocks. The drawback to this

island, however, is that cruise-shippassengers flock here and many beachbuffs like to come over on day trips.See p. 98.

• Grand Bahama Island: On thebeautiful waters off this large island,you can go sailing aboard OceanWonder (& 242/373-5880), which issupposedly the world’s largest twin-diesel engine glass-bottom boat. Thisvessel offers the best and mostpanoramic picture of underwater lifeoff the coast of Grand BahamaIsland—a view most often reservedfor scuba divers. You can also go sail-ing aboard Bahama Mama, a two-deck 22m (72-ft.) catamaran on aRobinson Crusoe Beach Party. Thecatamaran also sails at sunset on abooze cruise. Superior Watersports(& 242/373-7863; www.superiorwatersports.com) operates this cata-maran. See p. 169.

• Marsh Harbour: One of the finestanchorages in the Out Islands isfound in Marsh Harbour, which iscalled “The Boating Capital of TheBahamas.” The Moorings (& 888/952-8420 or 242/367-4000; www.moorings.com) is one of the leadingcharter sailboat outfitters in theworld, and rents boats to sail thewaters of the Abacos. Passengers dis-cover white-sand beaches and snuganchorages on uninhabited cays. Sail-ing here is one of the great experiencesof visiting The Bahamas. See p. 208.

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6 The Best Golf Courses• Cable Beach: The main draw is the

Cable Beach Golf Course (& 242/327-1741). The oldest golf course inThe Bahamas, this par-72 green wasthe private retreat of British expatri-ates in the 1930s. Today, it’s managedby a corporate namesake of ArnoldPalmer and owned by Cable Beachcasino marketers. Small ponds and

water traps heighten the challenge,amid more than 7,040 yards of well-maintained greens and fairways. See“The Active Vacation Planner,” inchapter 2, and p. 100.

• Paradise Island: Tom Weiskopfdesigned Ocean Club Golf Club(& 242/363-3000; www.oneandonlyresorts.com), an 18-hole, par-72

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course, and it’s a stunner. With chal-lenges that include the world’s largestsand trap and water hazards (mainlythe Atlantic Ocean) on three sides,the course has received praise fromJack Nicklaus and Gary Player. Forthe best panoramic ocean view—good enough to take your mind offyour game—play the par-3 14thhole. See “The Active Vacation Plan-ner,” in chapter 2, and p. 137.

• Grand Lucaya, Grand BahamaIsland: Designed by Robert TrentJones, Jr., The Reef Course (& 242/373-1333) opened in 2000. The

Bahamian press called it a bit like aScottish course, “but a lot warmer.”The course boasts 6,920 yards oflink-style greens. See p. 170.

• The Exumas: At long last the South-ern Bahamas has a world-class golfcourse: Four Seasons Resort Emer-ald Bay Golf Club opens onto thewaters of Emerald Bay (& 242/366-6800). The par-72, 18-hole coursewas designed by Greg Norman, whocreated six oceanfront holes. Thecourse is challenging, yet not daunt-ing, so that it appeals to golfers ofvarious skills. See p. 269.

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7 The Best Tennis Facilities• Paradise Island: Well-heeled tennis

buffs check into the One&OnlyOcean Club (& 242/363-2501;www.oneandonlyresorts.com). Manyvisitors go there just for tennis, whichcan be played day or night on theirsix Har-Tru courts. Guests bookedinto the cabanas and villas of the clubcan practically roll out of bed ontothe courts. Although beginners andintermediate players are welcome, thecourts are often filled with first-classcompetitors. Tennis is free for guestsof the One&Only Ocean Club. Thetennis complex at the Atlantis

(& 242/363-3000; www.atlantis.com) is more accessible to the generalpublic, with 10 courts (six regularasphalt and four hydro quartz), somelit for night games. See p. 125 and123.

• Freeport (Grand Bahama Island):Freeport is another top choice fortennis buffs. The best tennis courtson the island are at the Ace TennisCenter at the Westin & Sheraton atOur Lucaya Resorts, Royal PalmWay (tel. 242/373-1333), with fourcourts, including one that’s grass. Seep. 172.

8 The Best Honeymoon Resorts• Sandals Royal Bahamian Hotel &

Spa (Cable Beach, New ProvidenceIsland; & 800/SANDALS or 242/327-6400; www.sandals.com): ThisJamaican chain of couples-only, all-inclusive hotels is a honeymooners’favorite. The Bahamas’ branch of thechain is more upscale than many ofits Jamaican counterparts, and itoffers 27 secluded honeymoon suiteswith semiprivate plunge pools. Staffmembers lend their experience andtalent to on-site wedding celebra-tions; Sandals will provide everything

from a preacher to flowers, as well aschampagne and a cake. It’s moreexpensive than most Sandals resorts,but you can usually get better pricesthan the official “rack rates” througha travel agent or a package deal. Seep. 84.

• One&Only Ocean Club (ParadiseIsland; & 800/321-3000 in the U.S.only, or 242/363-2501; www.oneandonlyresorts.com): It’s elegant,low-key, and low-rise, and it feelsexclusive. The guests include manyolder honeymoon couples. With

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Eco-Tourism Highlights of The Bahamas

The Bahamas spreads over 258,998 sq. km (101,010 sq. miles) of the AtlanticOcean. The largest oceanic archipelago nation in the tropical AtlanticOcean, it offers miles of crystal-clear waters rich with fish and other marineresources. Its natural attractions include a series of underwater reefs thatstretch 1,224km (759 miles) from the Abacos in the northeast to Long Islandin the southeast. It has the most extensive systems of blue holes and lime-stone caves in the world.

And, unlike Puerto Rico, Jamaica, Barbados, and other Caribbean islandnations, The Bahamas also possesses large areas of undeveloped naturalmainland. It all adds up to plenty of opportunity for getting up close andpersonal with nature.

Start with the reefs. Lying off the coast of Andros, The Bahamas includesapproximately 2,330 sq. km (909 sq. miles) of coral reef, comprising the third-largest barrier reef system in the world. Rich with diverse marine life, the reefattracts green moray eels, cinnamon clownfish, and Nassau grouper. Whenofficials realized that long-line fishing threatened this fragile ecology, TheBahamas became one of the first Caribbean countries to outlaw the practice.

The nation’s Parliament also passed the Wild Birds Protection Act toassure preservation of rare bird species. That law has made a big difference:Great Inagua Island now shelters more than 60,000 pink flamingos,Bahamian parrots, and a large portion of the world’s population of reddishegrets. These birds live in the government-protected, 743-sq.-km (290-sq.-mile) Inagua National Park.

And that’s not all. The islands of The Bahamas are home to more than1,370 species of plants, plus 13 species of mammals; the majority of them, itmust be said, are bats, but wild pigs, donkeys, raccoons, and the Abaco wildhorse also roam the interiors of the nation’s islands. You’ll see whales anddolphins, including humpback and blue whales and the spotted dolphin,swimming in the sea.

To keep an eye on all this natural wealth, and share it with the public, theBahamas National Trust administers 25 national parks and more than283,279 hectares (699,699 acres) of protected land.

waterfalls, fountains, reflecting pools,and a stone gazebo, the Ocean Club’sformal terraced gardens were inspiredby the club’s founder (an heir to theA&P fortune) and are the mostimpressive in The Bahamas. At thecenter is a French cloister, with carv-ings from the 12th century. Seep. 125.

• Old Bahama Bay (Grand BahamaIsland; & 800/444-9469 or 242/350-

3500; www.oldbahamabay.com): Per-fect for honeymooners seeking aquiet hideaway in a boutique-stylehotel with cottages adjacent to amarina. The casinos, entertainment,shopping, and dining of Freeport/Lucaya are 40km (25 miles) away,but here you can sneak away to lux-ury, solitude, and romance. Seep. 157.

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• Kamalame Cay (Staniard Creek,Andros; & 242/368-6281; www.kamalame.com): You’ll need deeppockets to afford one of the mostexclusive resorts in the Out Islands, aperfect honeymoon retreat for thecouple who want to escape casinos andresorts. With its 5km (3 miles) ofwhite-sand beaches in both directions,this pocket of posh specializes in lux-ury and comfort. And don’t worry ifyou’ve already taken your honeymoon;this is the perfect place to take a sec-ond one, or even a third. See p. 196.

• Green Turtle Club (Green TurtleCay, the Abacos; & 242/365-4271;www.greenturtleclub.com): Roman-tics appreciate this resort’s winningcombination of yachting atmosphereand well-manicured comfort. It’ssmall (31 rooms) and civilized in anunderstated way; the charming, clap-board-covered village of New Ply-mouth is nearby, accessible by motorlaunch or, even better, a 45-minutewalk across windswept scrublands.See p. 228.

• Abaco Inn (Elbow Cay, The Abacos;& 800/468-8799 or 242/366-0133):For barefoot elegance and romance inthe sands, this sophisticated littlehideaway is one of the gems of theyachting haven known as the Abacos.Luxury villa suites with sunrise andsunset views are the way to go. Youand your loved one should seek out ahammock in the gardens. See p. 215.

• The Bluff House Beach Hotel(Green Turtle Cay, the Abacos;& 800/745-4911, or 242/365-4247;www.bluffhouse.com): This placewas named because of its locationatop a 24m (80-ft.) cliff towering

over a pink sand beach. Its 4.8hectares (12 acres) front the Sea ofAbaco on one side and the harbor ofWhite Sound on the other. Theaccommodations are very private,with a rustic, seafaring decor that hasits own elegance. In addition torooms, the hotel offers beach andhillside villas, and colonial suites withprivate balconies that overlook thewater. See p. 227.

• Pink Sands (Harbour Island,Eleuthera; & 800/OUTPOST or242/333-2030; www.islandoutpost.com/PinkSands): You can have aspectacular getaway at this eliteretreat on an 11-hectare (27-acre)beachfront estate owned by ChrisBlackwell, the founder of IslandRecords. Its location on a 5km(3 mile) stretch of private pink sand,sheltered by a barrier reef, is just oneof its assets. You can ask for a bed-room that evokes an upscale bordelloin Shanghai to put you in a romanticmood, and you can also enjoy thebest meals on the island. See p. 249.

• Stella Maris Resort Club (LongIsland, the Southern Bahamas; & 800/426-0466, 242/338-2051, or 954/359-8238; www.stellamarisresort.com): Right on the Atlantic, built onthe grounds of an old plantation,Stella Maris has become a social hubon Long Island. Sailing is importanthere, as are diving and getting awayfrom it all. Many of the guests hailfrom Germany, and they lend theplace a European flair. The sleepyisland itself is one of the most beauti-ful in The Bahamas, and honey-mooners fit into the grand scheme ofthings perfectly. See p. 290.

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9 The Best Family Vacations• Radisson Cable Beach Hotel (Cable

Beach, New Providence Island;& 800/333-3333 or 242/327-6000;

www.radisson-cablebeach.com): Afamily could spend their entire vaca-tion on the grounds of this vast

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resort. There’s a pool area that fea-tures the most lavish artificial water-fall this side of Tahiti; a health club atthe nearby Crystal Palace that wel-comes both guests and their children;Camp Junkanoo, with supervisedplay for children 3 through 12; and along list of in-house activities thatincludes dancing lessons. Majorchanges and redevelopment areplanned for this resort. See p. 85.

• Atlantis Paradise Island Resort &Casino (Paradise Island; & 800/ATLANTIS in the U.S., or 242/363-3000; www.atlantis.com): This is oneof the largest hotel complexes in theworld, with endless rows of shops andwatersports galore. Both children andadults will enjoy the 5.6-hectare (14-acre) sea world with waterslides, alagoon for watersports, white sandybeaches, and underground grottoesplus an underwater viewing tunneland 240m (787 ft.) of cascadingwaterfalls. Its children’s menus andinnovative, creative children’s pro-grams are the best in The Bahamasand perhaps even in the Caribbean.See p. 123.

• Best Western Castaways Resort &Suites (Grand Bahama Island; & 800/WESTERN in the U.S., or 242/352-6682; www.bestwestern.com): Here’sa good choice for families on abudget. The pagoda-capped lobby isset a very short walk from the ice-cream stands, souvenir shops, andfountains of the International Bazaar.Children under 12 stay free in theirparent’s room, and the in-houselounge presents limbo and fire-eatingshows several evenings a month. Thehotel offers a babysitting service and afree shuttle to Xanadu Beach. Seep. 149.

• Regatta Point (George Town, GreatExuma; & 800/688-0309 in theU.S. or 242/336-2206; www.regattapointbahamas.com): This resortoffers efficiency apartments at mod-erate prices. On a palm-grove cay, it isfamily friendly, with its own littlebeach. Bikes are available, and Sun-fish boats can be rented. There’s alsoa grocery store nearby where you canpick up supplies. Many units are suit-able for families of four or five. Seep. 266.

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10 The Best Places to Get Away from It All• Green Turtle Club (Green Turtle

Cay, the Abacos; & 242/365-4271;www.greenturtleclub.com): Secludedand private, this sailing retreat con-sists of tasteful one- to three-bed-room villas with full kitchens. Itopens onto a small private beach witha 35-slip marina, which is one of themost complete yachting facilities inthe archipelago. Many rooms openonto poolside, and there’s a diningroom decorated in Queen Anne style.See p. 228.

• Rock House Hotel (Harbour Island,off the coast of Eleuthera; & 242/333-2053; www.rockhousebahamas.com):A glamorous and stylish inn—really,

a glorified B&B—this posh littlehideaway is drawing more and moreof the glitterati to its shores. Set on alow bluff above the harbor, it is tran-quillity itself with whimsically deco-rated bedrooms. No one will find youif you decide to hide out here. Seep. 250.

• Club Med–Columbus Isle (San Sal-vador, the Southern Bahamas; & 800/CLUB-MED or 242/331-2000; www.clubmed.com): This was the firstlarge resort to be built on one of TheBahamas’ most isolated islands, siteof Columbus’s first landfall in theNew World. It’s unusually luxurious,and unusually isolated, for a Club

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Med, and it occupies a gorgeousbeach. The sheer difficulty of reach-ing it adds to the get-away-from-it-allmystique. See p. 283.

• Fernandez Bay Village (Cat Island,the Southern Bahamas; & 800/940-1905 or 242/342-3043 or 954/474-4821; www.fernandezbayvillage.com):The dozen stone and timber villas ofFernandez Bay Village are the closestthing to urban congestion Cat Island

ever sees. There’s a funky, thatch-roofed beach bar that’ll make you feellike you’re in the South Pacific—agreat place to enjoy a cold beer eachafternoon after you leave the stun-ning sands and turquoise watersbehind for the day. There’s only onephone at the entire resort, and yourbathroom shower will probably opento a view of the sky. See p. 279.

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11 The Best Restaurants• Chez Willie (Nassau, New Provi-

dence Island; & 242/322-5364):This is one of the newest, but also theclassiest, restaurants on New Provi-dence Island, overshadowing its com-petitors on Cable Beach. It’s athrowback to the grandeur of OldNassau in its cafe society heyday. Yourhost, Willie Armstrong, oversees asmoothly run operation serving someof the best French and Bahamian cui-sine found on the island. See p. 89.

• Buena Vista (Nassau, New Provi-dence Island; & 242/322-2811; www.buenavista-restaurant.com): Over-looking Nassau Harbour, this restau-rant retains the elegance that the cityhad when the Duke and Duchess ofWindsor were in the governor’s man-sion. Its take on both continental andBahamian cuisines still attracts seri-ous foodies drawn both to the cuisineand the expert service by tuxedo-cladwaiters. See p. 89.

• Dune (in the One&Only OceanClub, Paradise Island; & 242/363-2501, ext. 64739): The most cutting-edge restaurant in either ParadiseIsland or Nassau, Dune is the cre-ation of French-born restaurant guruJean-Georges Vongerichten, the mov-ing force behind several of New YorkCity’s top dining spots. Every dishserved here is something special—from shrimp dusted with orange

powder to chicken and coconut milksoup with shiitake cakes. See p. 131.

• Bahamian Club (Paradise Island;& 242/363-3000): A notch downfrom the superb Dune, this establish-ment is one of the leading restaurantsin The Bahamas and our favorite atthe sprawling megaresort of Atlantis.Strictly upscale, it presents superbFrench and international cuisineagainst a backdrop that evokes theBritish Colonial era. The restaurantserves the island’s finest cuts of meats.See p. 130.

• Villa d’Este (in the Atlantis ParadiseIsland Resort and Casino, ParadiseIsland; & 242/363-3000): This isthe finest Italian restaurant on Par-adise Island, with nothing in Nassauto top it, either. The setting is gra-cious, tasteful, and Old World, butit’s the food that keeps visitors andlocals alike clamoring for reserva-tions. All the old favorites are here,including veal parmigiana and fettuc-cine Alfredo as fine as any you’d findin Rome. Fresh herbs add zest tomany dishes, and the pasta dishes areparticularly good. See p. 133.

• Mangoes Restaurant (Marsh Har-bour, the Abacos; & 242/367-2366):For the best and most authenticBahamian food in the Abaco chain,head for this welcoming spot, whereboth visiting yachties and locals flock

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for the fine cuisine. Order up a conchburger for lunch, then return in theevening for the catch of the day—straight from the sea and grilled toyour specifications. The namesakemango sauce really dresses up a plateof grilled pork tenderloin. See p. 210.

• The Landing (Harbour Island,Eleuthera; & 242/333-2707; www.harbourislandlanding.com): Thisattractive restaurant at the ferry dockhas awakened the sleepy taste buds ofEleuthera. Brenda Barry and daugh-ter Tracy feed you well from a choiceof international cuisines, often pre-pared from recipes gathered duringworld travels. Under mature trees in

their garden, you feast on deliciouspasta dishes, freshly made gazpacho,pan-fried grouper, or a warm ducksalad. See p. 251.

• Rock House Restaurant (HarbourIsland, Eleuthera; & 242/333-2053;www.rockhousebahamas.com): Onthe increasingly chic Harbour Island,the restaurant in the Rock HouseHotel serves a superb internationalcuisine. Its hip bodega aura evokesMiami, but it’s thoroughly groundedon the island. At lunch you can get arock lobster sandwich, but at nightthe chefs display their culinaryprowess with an array of satisfyingdishes. See p. 253.

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12 The Best Nightlife• Cable Beach: Cable Beach has a lot

more splash and excitement thanNassau, its neighbor on New Provi-dence Island, and wandering aroundCable Beach is also much safer thanexploring the back streets of Nassauat night. The main attraction is theWyndham Nassau Resort & CrystalPalace Casino (& 242/327-6200;www.wyndhamnassauresort.com),with an 800-seat theater known forstaging glitzy extravaganzas and agaming room that will make youthink you’re smack dab in the middleof Vegas. One of the largest casinoson the islands, the Crystal Palace fea-tures 750 slot machines, 51 blackjacktables, nine roulette wheels, sevencraps tables, and a baccarat table (wethink the Paradise Island casino hasmore class, though). Despite all theglitter, you can still find cozy bars andnooks throughout the resort if you’dprefer a tranquil evening. See p. 118.

• Atlantis Paradise Island Resort &Casino: Paradise Island has theflashiest nightlife in all of TheBahamas, hands down. Not evennearby Nassau and Cable Beach can

come close. Nearly all of the actiontakes place at the incredible AtlantisParadise Island Resort & Casino(& 242/363-3000; www.atlantis.com), where you’ll find high rollersfrom Vegas and Atlantic City along-side grandmothers from Iowa whoplay the slot machines when familyisn’t looking. It’s all gloss, glitter, andshowbiz, with good gambling (thoughsavvy locals say your odds of beatingthe house are better in Vegas). For aquieter night out, you can also findintimate bars, discos, a comedy club,and lots more in this sprawling behe-moth of a hotel. See p. 123.

• Grand Bahama Island: If you wantto gamble, and gamble seriously, headfor either Cable Beach outside Nas-sau or Paradise Island. There is alsogambling at Lucaya on GrandBahama Island. But it’s less elaborate.Action takes place at the Isle of Capri,at the Westin & Sheraton at OurLucaya Resorts, Royal Palm Way(& 242/373-1333). The facility alsocontains a bar and restaurant. Seep. 177.

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