the best of southeast asia - john wiley & sons · pontianak bandar seri begawan johor bharu...

1The Best of Southeast Asia

To the Western visitor, Southeast Asia is an assault on the senses, an immersioninto a way of life utterly unlike that to which we’re accustomed. From bustlingcities like Bangkok, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur to tiny fishing villages andthatched rural hamlet, from the jungles of Malaysian Borneo to the deluxeresorts of Bali, from the temples of Luang Prabang in Laos to the bacchanal ofPatpong in Thailand, Southeast Asia offers a glimpse of the extraordinary, anexplosion of colors, sounds, smells, textures, and life that will send you homewith a wider vision of the human experience. In this chapter, we share our picksof the region’s unrivaled highlights.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences• Making Merit (Thailand). In

Thailand, Buddhist monks do notearn income; they survive on giftsof food and necessary items givenby devoted Buddhists in the laycommunity. But the tonsuredmonk in his gold-colored robeswho walks from house to houseeach morning is not begging forfood; instead, he is offering anopportunity for the giver toreceive merit. In contributing tothe monk’s survival, the giver offood and gifts is supporting thesangha, the monkhood, and there-fore gets closer to Buddhist ideals.If you are interested in makingmerit this way, talk to your hotel’sconcierge. You might be able tojoin kitchen staff as they head to anearby monastery in the earlymorning or wait on the rightbyway to greet and feed a columnof monks. See chapter 4.

• Sailing the South China Sea(Vietnam). With the sky above usa deep, red afterglow, we roundeda buoy marking the shipping laneoff coastal Nha Trang and, withthe wind now at our backs, settled

the Hobie Cat into a perfect fan-tail, the mainsail and jib billowingon opposite sides as the ruddersgave a low moan and the boatgained speed. Riding low swells,we sped toward a coast wheretwinkling lights might havebelonged to a child’s train set, andthe sky continued its show, now inorange. Heavenly. Opportunitiesfor watersports and sailing aremany as you travel along Viet-nam’s coast. Most resorts haveboats for rent, and Nha Trang is agood bet, as is the area off Mui NeBeach near Phan Thiet, which isbecoming a very popular wind-and kite-surfing spot. See chap-ter 6.

• Staying in a Hill-Tribe Villagenear the China Border (Laos).They’re still asking visitors, “Whydo you come here, anyway?” invillages along the NamHa River innorthern Laos. Thanks to thefolks who run the NamHa Pro-ject, these vast tracts of pristinejungle won’t be overrun by touristsanytime soon, and the many eth-nic minority groups who’ve lived

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T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E T R A V E L E X P E R I E N C E S 13

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here in isolation won’t be turnedinto human zoo exhibits. It isheartening to know that themoney you spend on a trek goes tosupport a model of sustainableeco-tour development in a fragileregion. And it is good, hearty jun-gle trekking or river kayak thattakes you through lush jungle ter-rain where you’re likely to seemonkeys and exotic birds. Arrivein villages where kayaks are still anoddity, and spend fun eveningsaround the fire communicating bycharades or stick figures in a note-book. It’s not about the villagesbeing “pristine”; it’s about the factthat your visit is part of a culturalexchange, not about disparate cur-rency exchange rates. You canhave a positive effect on peoplewith your heart and your touristdollars. See chapter 5.

• Participating in a Baci Cere-mony (Laos). The Baci is a touch-ing Lao ceremony used to saywelcome or farewell and to honorachievements. Participants sit in acircle and receive group blessings,after which there is traditionaldancing and lao lao, rice wine. It’sa chance for the ultrafriendly Laopeople to express their hospitalityto you, their honored guest. Seechapter 5.

• Sipping a Singapore Sling in theLong Bar (Raffles Hotel, Singa-pore). Ah, the Long Bar, home ofthe Singapore Sling. I like to comein the afternoons before thetourist rush. Sheltered by longtimber shutters that close out thetropical sun, the air cooled by lazypunkahs (small fans that wavegently back and forth above), youcan sit back in old rattan chairsand have your saronged waitressserve you sticky alcoholic cre-ations while you toss back a fewdainty crab cakes. Life can be sodecadent. Okay, so the punkahs

are electric and, come to think ofit, the place is air-conditioned(not to mention that it costs asmall fortune), but it’s fun toimagine the days when SomersetMaugham, Rudyard Kipling, orCharlie Chaplin would be sittingat the bar sipping Slings and spin-ning exotic tales of their worldtravels. Drink up, my friend; it’s alovely high. See chapter 8.

• Walking the Streets of George-town (Penang, Malaysia). Evi-dence of former British coloniza-tion and early Chinese, Indian,and Arab immigration is apparentin many major cities in Malaysia,but Penang has a special charm. Insome ways, the city still operatesthe way it did half a century ago.The shop houses are filled withsmall businesses—bicycle-repairshops, hardware stores, Chinesemedicine halls, and coffee shops.From upstairs windows, you canstill see laundry hanging on bam-boo poles. Life hums in thesestreets, and for anyone who haswitnessed the homogenization ofSingapore or the modernization of Kuala Lumpur, Penang is acharming reminder of what lifemight have been like in these oldoutposts. See chapter 9.

• Observing Open-Air PublicCremations (Bali). Hindusbelieve that cremation is the onlyway a soul can be freed of itsearthly body and travel to its nextincarnation (or to enlightenment),so cremations are joyous occa-sions, full of floats and fanfare thatcan resemble a Mardi Gras parade.Complicated towers hold thebody, carried aloft by cheeringmen. At the burning ground, thebody is placed in a receptacleresembling a winged lion, a bull,or some other fabulous creature,and is set on fire. It’s beautiful andawesome, a marvelous show of


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pageantry and faith, and yet a nat-ural part of everyday life. Westernvisitors are welcomed. See chap-ter 10.

• The Magic Hour at Angkor Wat(Cambodia). You’ll want to planyour day around it, and templeaficionados all have their favoritespots; but whether from a hillsideoverlooking a glowing templefacade or from the heights of themain temple itself with the hori-zon framed by the famed ancient

towers, be sure to see an Angkorsunset. Sunrise is equally worththe early morning ride. At themore popular viewing spots, likeBakeng Hill, you’ll ooh and aah inconcert with lots of other travel-ers. Nobody likes crowds, butthere is a certain cool onenesshere, and the odd didgeridooplayer or cross-legged character inmeditation is all a nice throwbackto the old hippy-trail days in theregion. See chapter 7.

T H E B E S T T O W N S & V I L L A G E S 15

2 The Best Towns & Villages• Chiang Saen (Thailand). Crum-

bling 11th-century temples takeyou back to the birthplace of theLanna Kingdom, one of Thai-land’s wealthiest and most influ-ential. The nearby GoldenTriangle, a notorious trade pointfor the international opium indus-try, has a new museum and river-side views of Laos, Thailand, andBurma. See chapter 4.

• Hoi An (Vietnam). The small sizeof Hoi An belies its importance toVietnam; it was once a major trad-ing port, with canals leading rightup to merchants’ quarters for easydelivery of goods. The canals arenow peaceful streets, but little elsehas changed. Almost every build-ing in central Hoi An is a historicVietnamese-, Japanese-, and Chi-nese-influenced residence ormeeting hall. See chapter 6.

• Luang Prabang (Laos). Thistown, sanctioned a World Her-itage site by UNESCO for its glo-rious Buddhist temples, is also acharming retreat. Shady lanes arelined with French-style countryhomes that have been restored andconverted to house cafes, galleries,shops, and some quaint guest-houses. The sunset over the lazyMekong is the perfect end to a day

spent in Luang Prabang. See chap-ter 5.

• Ubud (Bali). This is the culturalheart of Bali, bursting with artand greenery and some of the bestfood on the island. Even thoughit’s dependent on tourism and isfar from a typical Bali village, youstill get a sense of a real town, withreal life going on around you.Ubud is the richest region in Balifor art production and, because ofits central location, the town is theperfect base for exploring the restof the island. See chapter 10.

• Phnom Penh (Cambodia). Fewcountries’ capitals could be calledquaint or fall under the categoryof a “town,” and that’s the verycharm of this riverside burg. Theysay you either love it or hate it,that it’s a place for expats and nottourists, but in a short strollthrough the town center, you’llcome across a unique mix. Firstyou’ll encounter a row of touristcafes, streets buzzing with motor-bikes and choked with dust, butturn the corner and find a quietalley, a row of colonials, a lone kidkicking a soccer ball, and a grim-looking grandmother breakinginto a smile as you walk by.There’s something special here.See chapter 7.

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• Chaweng Beach (Koh Samui,Thailand). Chaweng is real fun inthe sun. The beach itself is gor-geous, with bungalows nestled inthe trees just beyond the sand.Behind the beach lies a small townfull of life, from wonderful Thaiand seafood eateries to shoppingand wild nightlife options. Seechapter 4.

• Phan Thiet (Vietnam). Just a fewhours from Saigon, Phan Thiet isthe latest getaway in Vietnam.Oceanside development is in fullswing here, and there are somegreat boutique resorts along thestunning white sands of Mui NeBeach. There’s a golf coursedesigned by Nick Faldo, and thetown of Phan Thiet itself is aninteresting little fishing portworth a wander. The seafood isgood, and there are some great daytrips to enormous remote dunesand smaller fishing villages. Seechapter 6.

• Tanjung Rhu (Langkawi,Malaysia). This huge secludedcove has one of the longeststretches of private beach I’ve ever

seen. Wide with soft sand, thebeach has cooling shady spots pro-vided by palm trees overhead andbeautiful deep blue waters forgood swimming. Best of all,there’s only one resort here (andthe beach is kept picture perfect),so you won’t have to elbow forspace or suffer jet skis. See chap-ter 9.

• Juara Bay (Tioman Island,Malaysia). This beach is whatthey meant when they coined theword isolated. Be prepared to livelike Robinson Crusoe—in tinyhuts with cold-water showers andmany with no electricity. But, oh,the beach! A wide crescent ofpalm-lined sand hugs the clearestblue water, with very few otherpeople in sight. See chapter 9.

• Lombok (Indonesia). The purewhite-sand beaches of Lombok,with clear aqua-blue water lappingagainst them, are sometimes soprivate that you can have one allto yourself. And Lombok is just ashort hop from neighboring Bali.See chapter 10.


3 The Best Beaches

4 The Best Outdoor Adventures• Phang-nga Bay (Thailand).

From the island of Phuket, seacanoe operators guide visitorsthrough the caves hidden deepinside the craggy island-rocks ofPhang-nga Bay. Outside, theislands thrust up to the sky, theirjagged edges laced with scatteredtrees. Lie flat in your canoe to slipthrough the small cave openings,inside which you’ll find magnifi-cent chambers believed to haveonce hidden pirate operations. Seechapter 4.

• Sea Kayaking in Halong Bay(Vietnam). The more than 3,000

arresting limestone karst forma-tions rising out of Halong Bay’speaceful blue-green waters providea natural obstacle course for pad-dling. Moving among them, you’llpass in and among intriguinggrottos and caverns. Nights arespent camping out in naturalparks or on the deck of a mothership. See chapter 6.

• Hill-Tribe Village Treks in Sapa(North Vietnam). Dressed inelaborate costume of leggings,tunic, and headdress, Hmong andYao people (among other groups)gather to sell their weavings, fine

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dyed clothing, or crude but intri-cate metalwork in the central mar-ket. In fact, the town of Sapa isfamed for an ephemeral “LoveMarket,” where people from sur-rounding villages converge to findthat special someone. A trip toSapa means that the hill tribescome to you, but don’t limit yourtrip to the town; be sure to get offinto the countryside and trek inthe shadow of Fansipan, the high-est mountain in the region.Among lush terraced rice fields,you can visit many villages in eventhe shortest trek and experiencedifferent hill-tribe traditions andcultures. See chapter 6.

• Caving and Kayaking in VangVieng (Laos). Countless cavesand caverns are hidden in themagnificent mountains surround-ing Vang Vieng, a small villagealong the Nam Song River. Someof them are well known and someare barely on the map. Kayaktours on the Nam Song includesome fun caves that you’ll swiminto and can test your mettle onnatural mud slides. Spend yourdays exploring and evenings talk-ing about it over drinks in thislaid-back little backpacker town.See chapter 5.

• Jungle Trekking in TamanNegara (Malaysia). With suitableoptions for all budgets, levels of

comfort, and desired adventure,Malaysia’s largest national parkopens the wonders of primary rainforest and the creatures who dwellin it to everyone. From thecanopy, walk high atop the forestto night watches for nocturnallife. This adventure is as stunningas it is informative. See chapter 9.

• Hiking Gunung Agung (Bali).Bali’s highest mountain/volcano,Gunung Agung (3,014m/9,886ft. high), is sacred to the Balinese,whose traditions call it “the centerof the world.” Climbing thesteaming peak is a serious trek thatcalls for a guide and proper sup-plies. Most hotels can arrange forit, but you will have to start out inthe middle of the night or veryearly in the morning to make thetop by sunrise. Nearby GunungBatur is a less strenuous and noless rewarding half-day climb. Seechapter 10.

• Born to Be Wild (Cambodia). Ifyou ride motorbikes, get yourmotor runnin’ and head out onthe dirt-track back roads. RuralCambodia is just opening up forexploration, and the pioneers hereare leading the way to the back ofbeyond on dirt bikes (find a bikewith the best suspension). It’s cer-tainly a choice for the hearty and agreat adventure. See chapter 7.

T E M P L E S , S H R I N E S , PA L A C E S & A R C H A E O L O G I C A L S I T E S 17

5 The Most Intriguing Temples, Shrines,Palaces & Archaeological Sites

• The Grand Palace & Wat PhraKaeo (Bangkok, Thailand).These two places are number oneon every travel itinerary toBangkok, and rightly so. Thepalace is indeed grand, with mix-tures of traditional Thai and Euro-pean Victorian architecture. WatPhra Kaeo, the royal temple thathouses Thailand’s revered andmysterious Emerald Buddha, is a

small city in itself, with a dozen ormore picturesque outer buildingsand monuments that devour rollsof film. See chapter 4.

• Ayutthaya (Thailand). BeforeBangkok, there was Ayutthaya.This was the thriving capital ofSiam that the first Europeans saw when they visited amazingThailand. Ruling a rich and pow-erful kingdom of over a million

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inhabitants, the monarchy sup-ported the arts, especially litera-ture. As the city grew,international trade was encour-aged. All that remains are brickremnants of a grand palace andmany temples that were sackedduring the Burmese invasion. It’sbest to hire a guide who can walkyou through and point out thesignificance of each site. See chap-ter 4.

• The Cao Dai Holy See (TayNinh) (North of Ho Chi Minh,Vietnam). This is the spiritualhome base of the Cao Dai reli-gion, a faith characterized byphilosophical inclusion and influ-ence gathered from all beliefs,including the world’s great scien-tists and humanitarians. Its head-quarters is like a fantasyland ofcolored mosaic and elaboratepainting. Followers are dressed inwhite turbans during the pictur-esque daily procession. It’s quiteunique. See chapter 6.

• Tomb of Khai Dinh (Hue, Viet-nam). Khai Dinh was an egotisti-cal, eccentric emperor who wasbad for the people of Vietnam butgreat for the tomb he left behind.A gaudy mix of Gothic, baroque,and classical Chinese architecture,the exterior is remarkable. Thestunning interior is completelycovered with intricate glass andceramic mosaic work. See chap-ter 6.

• Wat Xieng Thong (Luang Pra-bang, Laos). The glittering XiengThong, built in 1560, sits grandlyon a peninsula jutting out into theMekong River. The facades of twoof its buildings are covered by glit-tering glass mosaics; anotherbuilding contains an ornate char-iot with the heads of seven drag-ons and the remains of a king.About a dozen English-speakingmonks roam the premises; all are

excellent conversationalists. Seechapter 5.

• Plain of Jars (Xieng Khouang,Laos). How did hundreds of hugestone urns, some measuring 2.7mtall (9 ft.), come to be placed on afew meadows in northern Laos?No one really knows, and that’swhat’s fun here. The most preva-lent explanation is that the urnswere made by prehistoric folk inthe area about 2,000 years ago tobe used as sarcophagi, but there’slots of room for conjecture. Seechapter 5.

• Thian Hock Keng (Singapore).One of Singapore’s oldest Chinesetemples, it is a fascinating testi-mony to Chinese Buddhism com-bined with traditional Confucianbeliefs and natural Taoist princi-ples. Equally fascinating is themodern world that carries on justoutside the old temple’s doors. Seechapter 8.

• Jame Mosque (Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia). Built at the centralpoint of the city, this is one of theoldest mosques in Kuala Lumpur.It is the heart of Malay Islam, asevidenced by the Muslim shops,eateries, and daily activities carriedon in the streets surrounding it.See chapter 9.

• Jalan Tokong (Malacca, Malay-sia). This street, in the historicalheart of the city, has a Malaymosque, a Chinese temple, and aHindu temple living peacefullyside by side—the perfect exampleof how the many foreign religionsthat came to Southeast Asiashaped its communities andlearned to coexist in harmony. Seechapter 9.

• Basakih Temple (Central Bali,Indonesia). Built in homage ofGunung Agung, the island’s feisty,smoke-belching creator, theBasakih Temple does justice to theawe and grandeur of the Balinese


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creation myths surrounding thevolcano. The spires of individualfamily shrines and temples aresomething like Chinese pagodas,and the place is always abuzz withlocal worshippers. You’re likely toget pulled into a ceremony. Seechapter 10.

• Angkor Wat (Cambodia). Oneof the world’s man-made wonders,Angkor Wat is the Disneyland oftemples in Asia. This ancient city

was known to the Western worldonly in myth until it was rediscov-ered and hacked free of jungleovergrowth in the late 1800s. Themagnificent temples are arrayedover a 97-sq.-km (37-sq.-mile)compound that dates from the riseand fall of the mighty AngkorCivilization (A.D. 802–1295). Avisit here is unforgettable. Seechapter 7.

T H E B E S T M U S E U M S 19

6 The Best Museums• National Museum (Bangkok,

Thailand). From prehistory torecent events, this museum—theformer palace of the brother ofKing Rama I—answers manyquestions about Thai history andculture through the ages. Insidebuildings that are themselvesworks of fine Thai design, you’llfind Buddha images, ancient arts,royal paraphernalia, and fine arts.Rama’s sister also lived here, andher house is decorated in the samestyle as it was in the late 1700s.See chapter 4.

• Vietnam National Museum ofFine Arts (Hanoi, Vietnam).Proper art museums are few andfar between in the region, and thislarge colonial house is a nice col-lection of newer works and histor-ical pieces. You’ll find nothing toocontroversial or groundbreaking,but some good examples of lac-quer and silk painting, wood-block, and folk and expressivework in oil. If you see anythingyou like, you’re sure to find goodcopies in any of the city’s manygalleries. See chapter 6.

• The Cham Museum (Danang,Vietnam). This open-air colonialstructure houses the largest collec-tion of Cham sculpture in theworld. Not only are relics of thisancient Hindu-inspired culture

rare, but the religious artworkitself—more than 300 pieces ofsandstone—is voluptuous, capti-vating, and intense. See chapter 6.

• Images of Singapore (SentosaIsland, Singapore). No one hasdone a better job than thismuseum in chronicling for thepublic the horrors of the Pacifictheater and Japanese occupationin Southeast Asia. Video andaudio displays take you on achronological journey throughSingapore’s World War II experi-ence. The grand finale is the Sur-render Chambers, life-size waxdioramas of the fateful events.There’s also dioramas depictinghistorical figures throughout Singapore’s early development, aswell as depictions of traditionalcultural festivals. See chapter 8.

• National Museum (PhnomPenh, Cambodia). Don’t missthis repository for the statues andrelief sculpture that have beenrecovered from the Angkor tem-ples and other ancient sitesthroughout Cambodia. Organizedin a convenient chronology, it’s ashort course in Khmer art history.Later pieces are particularly quiteexpressive. See chapter 7.

• Tuol Sleng, Museum of Geno-cide (Phnom Penh, Cambodia).Be warned that a visit here is quite

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intense—too much for some. Themuseum is simply the shell ofCambodia’s largest prison from1975 to 1979, when the entirecountry was turned into a concen-tration camp. Originally a highschool, Tuol Sleng was the site of

horrible atrocities and, thoughthere are some exhibits of photos,the experience of the museum isin wandering the small cells andlearning the tragic tale from expe-rienced local guides. See chap-ter 7.


7 The Best Festivals & Celebrations• Chinese New Year (Singapore).

If you’re in Southeast Asia aroundthe end of January or the begin-ning of February, hop up to HongKong or down to Singapore forthe festivities. It’s a 3-day party,with parades (complete with drag-ons and stilt walkers) and fire-works. See chapter 8.

• Songkran (Thailand). Every yearfrom April 13 to 15, Thais wel-come the New Year (according totheir calendar). Because Songkranfalls in the middle of the hottestseason in an already hot country,how do you think people cele-brate? Every Thai heads out intothe streets with water guns andbuckets of ice water (sometimeslaced with talcum powder, just toadd to the mess), and spends thenext 3 days soaking each other—and you. Foreigners are especiallyfavorite targets. Don’t get mad—arm thyself: Water bazookas areon sale everywhere. Have a ball!See chapter 4.

• That Luang Festival (Vientiane,Laos). Thousands of Buddhistfollowers from all over the coun-try, and even a few neighbor-ing countries, converge on the

spectacular That Luang temple inVientiane. There are alms-givingceremonies and flower proces-sions, and then the whole affairdissolves into a carnival thatstretches over several days. Seechapter 5.

• Bun Song Hua/Dragon BoatRaces (Laos). Celebrating the endof Buddhist Lent, Dragon Boatraces are held in every riversidetown in Laos (and that’s mosttowns, really). The races are excit-ing, the betting is frenzied, andthere’s always a small carnival withhandmade rides and the standardrigged skill games. See chapter 5.

• Thaipusam (Singapore andMalaysia). Around the end ofJanuary and the beginning of Feb-ruary, Hindus celebrate Thai-pusam. Men give thanks forprayers answered by carryingkavadis, huge steel racks attachedto their bodies with skewers pierc-ing the skin. Cheeks are pierced,and fruits are hung from the skinusing sharp hooks. A parade ofdevotees carry these things in adeep trance—and the next daythey wake up virtually unharmed.See chapters 8 and 9.

8 The Biggest Cultural No-Nos• Photographing a member of a

Hill Tribe Without Permission.There’s nothing a visitor wantsmore than to take away indelibleimages of the colorful, rusticlifestyles of the Vietnamese ethnicminorities. However, many rural

people are superstitious aboutphotographs or might resent theintrusion of privacy. Ask first. See“Etiquette Tips,” in chapter 2.

• Losing Your Temper in Laos orThailand. The Lao and Thai peo-ple follow Buddhist traditions in

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their daily life, approaching evenunfortunate events with calmcheerfulness. They would beshocked and dismayed at anger orill temper, and raising your voicewon’t achieve any purpose whatso-ever. No matter how frustratedyou become, keep it under wraps,or the people around you will seeto it that you never get where youneed to go. See “Etiquette Tips,”in chapter 2.

• Looking (or Being) Poor in Singapore. You probably won’trun into too many cultural fauxpas in cosmopolitan Singapore,but poverty is the pits in this city.Bring your smartest clothes if youwant to impress people here. Seechapter 8.

• Using Offensive Body Languagein Bali, Malaysia, Thailand, orLaos. Muslims, Hindus, and Bud-dhists all reserve the left hand for“unclean” toilet duties, never forpointing at anyone or anything,handing objects to others, eating,or touching other people. Simi-larly, in Buddhist and Hindu

cultures, the head is revered as themost sacred part of the body,while the feet are the lowest.Never touch another person’s heador shoulders, not even a child’s.Never point or gesture with yourfeet or use your feet to performany tasks other than walking. See“Etiquette Tips,” in chapter 2.

• Hanging Clothes out to Dry inBali. Or otherwise out in public(off hotel balconies and chairs andthe like).

• Showing Too Much Skin(Regional). Except perhaps inHong Kong, Singapore andBangkok or other heavily touristedareas, modest Southeast Asiansaccept beachwear at the beach,revealing vacation clothing atresorts, and sexy attire at discos.Everywhere else, dress with respectfor the locals and their traditions.See “Etiquette Tips,” in chapter 2.

• Wearing Shorts or Short Skirtsto a Temple or Mosque (Region-al). It’ll get you tossed out. See“Etiquette Tips,” in chapter 2.

T H E B E S T R E S O R T S & L U X U RY H O T E L S 21

9 The Best Resorts & Luxury Hotels• The Oriental (Bangkok, Thai-

land). The original address inThailand, The Oriental has seenmodernization detract from itscharms of yesterday, but there’sstill ambience all around. See p. 109.

• Rayavadee (Krabi, Thailand).This seductive bungalow resort inexquisite Thai style will thrill eventhe most discerning guests. See p. 206.

• The Regent (Cha-Am, Thai-land). Luxurious Thai-style suites,excellent restaurants, a multitudeof activities, and the most amaz-ing swimming pool you’ve everseen await you. Don’t forget tomeet the resident water buffalo

family—they work the resort’s pri-vate rice paddies. See p. 156.

• Sofitel Metropole (Hanoi, Viet-nam). The history of the Metro-pole, one of Vietnam’s premiergrand dames, tells the history ofthe last tumultuous century inVietnam. If the walls could onlytalk. Though everything is luxuri-ous and comfortable and you’re ina prime downtown location, you’llcertainly feel like you’ve walkedinto old Indochina. See p. 309.

• Ana Mandara (Nha Trang, Viet-nam). The details are perfect inthis small-scale resort, from theincense burning in the open long-house-style lobby to the smallsigns identifying tropical fish in

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the lobby’s pond. Each stylishroom has the air of a secluded hutwith its own verandah, manyoverlooking the palm-lined coast.Both the food and the staff ’ssmiles are perfect. Also check outthe new Evason Hideawaynearby. See p. 361.

• Sofitel Dalat Palace (Dalat, Viet-nam). It’s real old-world colonialopulence in the king’s former cas-tle in Vietnam’s Central High-lands. Private spaces are decoratedin a cool colonial baroque, andlobby and service are, in short,kingly. See p. 370.

• Settha Palace (Vientiane, Laos).Once the address of note for visi-tors to the French colony, the Set-tha Palace only recently returnedfrom obscurity and is now one ofthe finest hotels in the region. It’sa nice marriage of colonial ele-gance and modern comfort. See p. 256.

• La Résidence Phou Vao (LuangPrabang, Laos). Lording it overthe town in boutique luxury, thegardens and large suite rooms ofthe Phou Vao (formerly thePansea) are comfort and atmos-phere done to a T. This is typicalof other Orient Express proper-ties in the region. See p. 271.

• Raffles Hotel (Singapore). Forold-world opulence, Raffles is sec-ond to none. This is a pure fantasy

of the days when tigers still lurkedaround the perimeters. See p. 468.

• Four Seasons Hotel (Singapore).Elegance and warmth combine tomake this place a good bet. Con-sider a regular room here beforeyou book a suite elsewhere. See p. 474.

• The Regent (Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia). For my money, theRegent offers the smartest decor,best service, and best selection offacilities in the whole city. See p. 554.

• Four Seasons (Jimbaran, Bali).With its individual bungalowsand plunge pools overlooking theblue sea and its famous Four Sea-sons pampering, this is one of the great hotels in the world. Seep. 621.

• Amandari (Ubud, Bali). Its indi-vidual bungalows overlook a deepgreen gorge, and the Amandarioffers another sybaritic Bali expe-rience. If you can afford it (or theFour Seasons Jimbaran), do. Evenif you can’t, do. See p. 626.

• Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor(Siem Reap, Cambodia). A clas-sic Indochine colonial, the Grandis indeed grand. With fine servicesto connect you to nearby AngkorWat, a great central pool andspa/massage facility, and beautifulrooms, it doesn’t get any better.See p. 436.


10 The Best Hotel Bargains• The Atlanta (Bangkok, Thai-

land). Located in a prime spot offof central Sukhumvit, the Atlantais the oldest hotel in Bangkok(without structural renovation)and quite quirky and atmospheric.See p. 119.

• Tamarind Village (Chiang Mai,Thailand). If you’re going totravel on a budget, do it withstyle—and style is what Tamarind

Village has wrapped up in its quietcourtyard in the middle of OldTown. Rooms are new and ratherspartan in concrete and rattan, buteverything is tiptop. See p. 219.

• Spring Hotel/Mua Xuan (Saigon,Vietnam). Not especially luxuri-ous, rooms in this privately owneddowntown property (one of fewnongovernment places in Saigon)start at $34. It’s light on amenities

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but very comfortable, convenient,and friendly. See p. 394.

• Day Inn (Vientianne, Laos). Soit’s just a few notches above youraverage guesthouse, but there’s acomfortable, laid-back feel hereand many long-stay visitors can’tbe wrong. You’ll find rooms for$25. See p. 257.

• RELC International Hotel (Sin-gapore). For a safe and simpleplace to call home in Singapore,RELC can’t be beat. You mightwonder how they keep costs solow when their location is sogood. See p. 479.

• Traders Hotel (Singapore).“Value for money” is the name ofthe game, with all sorts of promo-tional packages, self-service laun-derettes, vending machines, and acheckout lounge—just a few ofthe offerings that make this themost convenient hotel in the city.See p. 479.

• Swiss-Inn (Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia). Tucked behind themarket tents in Chinatown, thisbargain find has the look of ahigher-quality hotel, but in mini-size. If you plan on spending your

time out exploring the city, whypay more for empty space? See p. 557.

• Heeren House (Malacca,Malaysia). Bargain or no bargain,this boutique hotel in the heart ofthe old city is the place to stay inMalacca if you want to really get afeel for the local atmosphere. Seep. 566.

• Telang Usan Hotel (Kuching,Malaysia). An informal place,Telang Usan is homey and quaint,and within walking distance ofmany major attractions in Kuch-ing. See p. 588.

• The Home Stays/Losmen ofBali. These small-time accommo-dations will give you a large, com-fortable (though no-frills) room orbungalow with a big, often fancybreakfast for about $5 a night fortwo. See chapter 10.

• Goldiana (Phnom Penh, Cam-bodia). It’s no frills but friendlyand cheap here in a quiet neigh-borhood south of the town center.It’s popular with long-staying visitors and NGO workers. See p. 426.

T H E B E S T L O C A L D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E S 23

11 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Street Food (Bangkok, Thai-

land). On every street, downevery alley, you’ll find someonesetting up a cart with an umbrella.Noodles, salads, and satay arefavorites, and some hawkers set uptables and stools on the sidewalkfor you to take a load off. This isThai cafe life! See chapter 4.

• Pho (Vietnam). Don’t leave thecountry without sampling one, ifnot many, bowls of this delicatenoodle soup, made with vermi-celli-thin rice noodles, chicken(ga) or beef (bo), and several freshaccompaniments, according to thechef ’s whim or local flavor: basil,

mint, chile peppers, and beansprouts. See chapter 6.

• Ngon Restaurant (Ho ChiMinh, Vietnam). It’s a restaurant,but really like the classroom forVietnam Cuisine 101. It’s loudand busy, but diners have theirchoice of food from the manyauthentic street stalls that line thecentral courtyard. Locals eat here;though they have an Englishmenu, go with a Vietnamesefriend or ask for a recommenda-tion from the friendly (but alwaysbusy) staff. See p. 398.

• Kua Lao (Vientiane, Laos). KuaLao is traditional Lao cuisine in a

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similar setting, including music.Situated in a restored colonial,with a series of dining rooms, it isthe premier Lao restaurant in thecountry. The extensive menu goeson for pages. There is an entirepage of vegetarian entrees andanother entire page of somethingyou don’t see often: traditionalLao desserts. See p. 260.

• Hawker Centers (Singapore).Think of them as shopping mallsfor food—great food! For localcuisine, who needs a menu withpictures when you can walkaround and select anything youwant as it’s prepared before youreyes? See chapter 8.

• Gurney Drive (Penang, Malay-sia). Penang is king for offering a

variety of Asian cuisine, from Chi-nese to Malay, Indian, and every-thing else in between. Visiting thislarge hawker center by the sea islike taking Intro to Penang 101.See p. 577.

• Balinese Warungs (Bali). Just alocal cafe, the Balinese equivalentof the greasy-spoon diner inAmerica, warungs can be found onevery street corner. Our favorite isSatri’s in Ubud. With 24-hoursadvance notice, Satri’s will cookyou a smoked duck or bananachicken feast, a whole bird, plusthree plates of salad or fabulousvegetables, rice, and fruit fordessert, for about $7 for two. Seep. 632.


12 The Best Markets• Chatuchak Weekend Market

(Bangkok, Thailand). One worddescribes it: huge. You can easilyget lost and certainly spend hourswandering this labyrinth. Don’tbuy anything until you spend atleast a half-day wandering downthe endless aisles eyeballing themultitude of merchandise avail-able. See chapter 4.

• Night Bazaar (Chiang Mai,Thailand). Most of those gor-geous handicrafts you find all overThailand are made in the north,and at Chiang Mai’s sprawlingNight Bazaar, you’ll find thewidest selection, best quality, andbest prices. See chapter 4.

• Central Market (Hoi An, Viet-nam). On the banks of the busyPerfume River lies this entire cityblock of narrow, roofed aisles.Produce of every description is forsale inside—handicrafts, house-hold items, and services such asfacials and massages. On the out-skirts, an entire warehouse isdevoted to silk and silk tailoring.See chapter 6.

• Morning Market (Vientiane,Laos). Laos’s famous market isthree huge buildings with tradi-tional tiered roofs. Silver handi-crafts, fabrics, jewelry, electronics,books, and much, much moreoccupy each building’s severalfloors. The aisles are wide andmade for wandering and pokingthrough the wares, and the propri-etors are friendly, gentle bargain-ers. See chapter 5.

• Arab Street (Singapore). Sure,Singapore is a shopper’s paradise,but it needs more places like ArabStreet, where small shops liningthe street sell everything from tex-tiles to handicrafts. Bargaining iswelcome. See chapter 8.

• Central Market (Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia). This is one-stop shop-ping for all the rich arts and hand-icrafts Malaysia produces—andit’s air-conditioned, too. See chap-ter 9.

• Central Market (Phnom Penh,Cambodia). This is where it allhappens in Phnom Penh. Themain building is a massive Art

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Deco rotunda with wings extend-ing in all directions. It’s an anthillof activity on any given day, and

you can get some interesting bar-gains and unique finds. See chap-ter 7.

T H E H O T T E S T N I G H T L I F E S P O T S 25

13 The Best Shopping Bargains• Antiques (Thailand). Before you

head out on vacation, visit someAsian galleries in your homecountry and take a look at theprices of the items you like. Onceyou’re here, you’ll be amazed athow little these things really cost.Most places will be glad to packand ship purchases for you, andyou’ll still come out ahead. Seechapter 4.

• Tailored Silk Suits (Thailandand Hanoi, Hoi An, and Saigon,Vietnam). For a fraction of whatyou’d pay at home, you can have alined silk (or wool) suit tailored ina day or less, including a fitting ortwo. Bring pictures of yourfavorite designer outfits for aclever copy, and an empty suitcaseor two for the trip home. Seechapters 4 and 6.

• Silver or Lacquer Handicrafts(Vietnam). The workmanship istops and the prices low through-out Vietnam, particularly for lac-quer ware. Bargain hard and makesure that the silver is genuine. Seechapter 6.

• Hand-Woven Textiles (Laos).The Laos hand weave texturedfabrics piece by piece on primitivewooden looms. Such painstakingwork costs more than a few dol-lars, but, ranging from sophisti-cated silk to gaily colored ethnicprints, the designs are pure art anduniquely Laotian. See chapter 5.

• Silver Filigree Jewelry (Malay-sia). This fine silver is worked intodetailed filigree jewelry designs tomake brooches, necklaces, brace-lets, and other fine jewelry. Seechapter 9.

• Pewter (Malaysia). Malaysia isthe home of Selangor Pewter, oneof the largest pewter manufactur-ers in the world. Its many show-rooms have all sorts of items tochoose from. See chapter 9.

• Fabric and Woodcarvings (Bali).Even with the “rich man’s tax” fortourists in Bali, just about any-thing you buy on the island is abargain compared with the samestuff back home. Commissionedfabric and woodcarvings are a par-ticularly good deal. See chap-ter 10.

14 The Hottest Nightlife Spots• Patpong (Bangkok, Thailand).

Yes, that Patpong. If go-go barsand sex shows aren’t your style,you’ll still find plenty to do. Afteryou’re finished shopping in thehuge night market, you’ll findplenty of restaurants, pubs, anddiscos that cater to folks who pre-fer more traditional nightlife. Seechapter 4.

• Saigon (Vietnam). From thetawdry to the socialite scene,you’ll find it in Saigon. With

rooftop garden bars like Saigon-Saigon and cool spots like Q-Bar,Saigon has a rollicking scene.Most evenings begin with an ele-gant (but very reasonable) Frenchor Vietnamese dinner; then it’sbar-hopping time in the city’scompact downtown, minglingwith trendy locals and fun-lovingexpats. See chapter 6.

• Disco Lives! (Laos). Go to adisco . . . any disco. It’s like a badjunior high dance and just as

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innocent. In the basement ofVientiane’s Lao Plaza Hotel is areasonable big-city facsimile, butask around in any small town forwhat’s on. The music is Asian pop,but it’s refreshing to watch younggentlemen ask the ladies to thefloor with a bit of pomp and cir-cumstance, and then it’s cheek-to-cheek or stilted boogie until thebig cheer when the music stops. Ithearkens to an America of the1950s. See chapter 5.

• Singapore. Nightlife is becomingincreasingly sophisticated in Sin-gapore, where locals have more

money for recreation and fun.Take the time to choose the placethat suits your personality. Jazzclub? Techno disco? Cocktaillounge? Wine bar? Good old pub?It has it all. See chapter 8.

• Bangsar (near Kuala Lumpur,Malaysia). Folks in KualaLumpur know to go to Bangsarfor nighttime excitement. A cou-ple blocks of concentrated restau-rants, cafes, discos, pubs, and winebars will tickle any fancy. There’sgood people-watching, too. Seechapter 9.


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