The Best of Maui

Maui, also called the Valley Isle, is just a small dot in the vast Pacific Ocean,but it has the potential to offer visitors unforgettable experiences: floatingweightless through rainbows of tropical fish, standing atop a 10,000-foot volcano watching the sunrise color the sky, listening to the raindrops in a bam-boo forest.

Whether you want to experience the “real” Hawaii, go on a heart-poundingadventure, or simply relax on the beach, this book is designed to help you cre-ate the vacation of your dreams.

It can be bewildering to plan your trip with so many options vying for yourattention; to make your task easier, this chapter highlights what I consider thevery best that Maui has to offer.

1 The Best Beaches

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• D. T. Fleming Beach Park: Thisquiet, out-of-the-way beach cove,located north of the Ritz-CarltonHotel, starts at the 16th hole ofthe Kapalua golf course (Makalua-puna Point) and rolls around tothe sea cliffs on the other side.Ironwood trees provide shade onthe land side. Offshore, a shallowsandbar extends out to the edge ofthe surf. Generally, the waters aregood for swimming and snorkel-ing, but sometimes, off near thesea cliffs, the waves are big enoughto suit body boarders and surfers.See p. 156.

• Kapalua Beach: On an island ofmany great beaches, this one takesthe prize. A golden crescent withswaying palms protected fromstrong winds and currents by twooutstretched lava-rock promonto-ries, Kapalua has calm waters thatare perfect for snorkeling, swim-ming, and kayaking. Even thoughit borders the Kapalua Bay Hotel,the beach is long enough foreveryone to enjoy. Facilities include

showers, restrooms, and lifeguards.See p. 157.

• Kaanapali Beach: Four-mile-longKaanapali stands out as one ofMaui’s best beaches, with grainygold sand as far as the eye can see.Most of the beach parallels the seachannel, and a paved beach walklinks hotels and condos, open-airrestaurants, and the Whalers Vil-lage shopping center. Summer-time swimming is excellent. Thebest snorkeling is around BlackRock, in front of the Sheraton; the water is clear, calm, and popu-lated with brilliant tropical fish.See p. 157.

• Wailea Beach: This is the bestgold-sand, crescent-shaped beachon Maui’s sunbaked southwesterncoast. One of five beaches withinWailea Resort, Wailea is big, wide,and protected on both sides byblack-lava points. It serves as thefront yard for the Four SeasonsWailea, Maui’s most elegant hotel,and the Grand Wailea ResortHotel & Spa, its most outrageous.

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From the beach, the view out tosea is magnificent, framed byneighboring Kahoolawe and Lanaiand the tiny crescent of Molokini.The clear waters tumble to shorein waves just the right size for gen-tle riding, with or without a board.While all the beaches on the westand south coasts are great for spot-ting whales and watching sunsets,Wailea, with its fairly flat sandybeach that gently slopes down tothe ocean, provides exceptionallygood whale-watching from shorein season (Dec–Apr), as well asunreal sunsets nightly. See p. 160.

• Maluaka Beach (Makena Beach):On the southern end of Maui’sresort coast, development falls off dramatically, leaving a wild, drycountryside punctuated by greenkiawe trees. The wide, palm-fringedcrescent of golden sand is setbetween two black-lava points andbounded by big sand dunes toppedby a grassy knoll. Makena can beperfect for swimming when it’s flatand placid, but it can also offerexcellent bodysurfing when thewaves come rolling in. Or, if youprefer, it can be a place of serenity,with vistas of Molokini Crater and Kahoolawe off in the distance.See p. 160.

• Waianapanapa State Park: Ineast Maui, a few miles from Hana,the 120 acres of this state park offer12 cabins, a caretaker’s residence, apicnic area, a shoreline hiking trail,and, best of all, a black-sand beach(actually small black pebbles).

Swimming is generally unsafe,though, due to strong waves break-ing offshore, which roll into thebeach unchecked, and strong ripcurrents. But it’s a great spot forpicnicking, hiking along the shore,and simply sitting and relaxing. See p. 162.

• Hamoa Beach: This half-moon–shaped, gray-sand beach (a mix ofcoral and lava) in a truly tropicalsetting is a favorite among sun-bathers, snorkelers, and body-surfers in Hana. The 100-foot-wide beach is three football fieldslong and sits below 30-foot black-lava sea cliffs. An unprotectedbeach open to the ocean, Hamoais often swept by powerful rip cur-rents. Surf breaks offshore androlls ashore, making it a popularsurfing and bodysurfing area. Thecalm left side is best for snorkelingin the summer. See p. 162.

• Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): Thisgolden, palm-fringed beach offthe south coast of Lanai gentlyslopes down to the azure waters ofa Marine Life Conservation Dis-trict, where clouds of tropical fishflourish and spinner dolphinscome to play. A tide pool in thelava rocks defines one side of thebay, while the other is lorded overby the Manele Bay Hotel, whichsits prominently on the hill above.Offshore, you’ll find good swim-ming, snorkeling, and diving;onshore, there’s a full complementof beach facilities, from restroomsto camping areas. See p. 294.

T H E B E S T M A U I E X P E R I E N C E S

2 The Best Maui Experiences• Taking the Plunge: Don mask,

fins, and snorkel, and explore themagical world beneath the surfaceof the ocean, where kaleidoscopicclouds of tropical fish flutter byexotic corals; a sea turtle mighteven come over to check you out.

Molokini is everyone’s favoritesnorkeling destination, but theshores of Maui are lined withmagical spots as well. Can’t swim?No problem: Hop on the AtlantisSubmarine (& 800/548-6262)for a plunge beneath the waves

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without getting wet. See “Water-sports” in chapter 6 and “By Air,Land & Sea: Guided IslandAdventures” in chapter 7.

• Hunting for Whales on Land:No need to shell out megabucksto go out to sea in search of hump-back whales—you can watch thesemajestic mammals breach and spyhop from shore. I recommend scenic McGregor Point, at milemarker 9 along HonoapiilaniHighway, just outside Maalaea inSouth Maui. The humpbacksarrive as early as November, butthe majority travel through Maui’swaters from mid-December tomid-April. See “Watersports” inchapter 6.

• Watching the Windsurfers: Siton a grassy bluff or stretch out onthe sandy beach at Hookipa, onthe north shore, and watch theworld’s top-ranked windsurferstwirling and dancing on the windand waves like colorful butterflies.World championship contests areheld at Hookipa, one of the great-est windsurfing spots on theplanet. See “Watersports” in chap-ter 6 and “Driving the Road toHana” in chapter 7.

• Experiencing Maui’s History:Wander the historic streets of theold whaling town of Lahaina,where the 1800s are alive and wellthanks to the efforts of the LahainaRestoration Society. Drive the sce-nic Kahekili Highway, where thepreserved village of Kahakuloalooks much as it did a centuryago. Stand in awe at Piilanihale,Hawaii’s largest heiau (temple),located just outside Hana. See“Lahaina & West Maui” in chap-ter 7.

• Greeting the Rising Sun fromHaleakala’s Summit: Bundle upin warm clothing, fill a thermosfull of hot java, and drive up tothe summit to watch the sky turn

from inky black to muted charcoalas a small sliver of orange formson the horizon. Standing at10,000 feet, breathing in the rar-efied air, and watching the firstrays of light streak across the sky isa mystical experience of the firstmagnitude. See “House of theSun: Haleakala National Park” inchapter 7.

• Exploring a Different Hawaii—Upcountry Maui: On the slopesof Haleakala, cowboys, farmers,ranchers, and other country peoplemake their homes in serene, neigh-borly communities like Makawao,Kula, and Ulupalakua—worldsaway from the bustling beachresorts. Acres of onions, lettuce,tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, andflowers cover the hillsides. Maui’sonly winery is located here, offer-ing the perfect place for a picnicand a chance to sample the tropicalvarieties of paradise. See “More inUpcountry Maui” in chapter 7.

• Driving Through a TropicalRainforest: The Hana Highway isnot just a “drive” but an adven-ture: Stop along the way to plungeinto icy mountain ponds filled bycascading waterfalls; gaze uponvistas of waves pummeling soaringocean cliffs; inhale the sweetaroma of blooming ginger; andtake a walk back in time, catchinga glimpse of what Hawaii lookedlike before concrete condos andfast-food joints washed ashore. See“Driving the Road to Hana” inchapter 7.

• Taking a Day Trip to Lanai:From Lahaina, join Trilogy Excur-sions’ snorkel cruise to Lanai (& 800/874-2666), or take theExpeditions Lahaina/Lanai Pas-senger Ferry over and rent a four-wheel-drive Jeep on your own. It’sa two-for-one island experience:Board in Lahaina Harbor and

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admire Maui from offshore, thenget off at Lanai and go snorkelingin the clear waters, tour the tiny

former plantation island, andcatch the last ferry home. Seechapter 11.

T H E B E S T A D V E N T U R E S 9

3 The Best AdventuresBranch out while you’re in Maui; dosomething you wouldn’t normallydo—after all, you’re on vacation.Below is a list of adventures I highlyrecommend. Some are a bit pricey, butthese splurges are worth every penny.

• Scuba Diving: You’re in love withsnorkeling and the chance to viewthe underwater world, but it’s justnot enough—you want to getcloser and see even more. Take anintroductory scuba dive; after abrief lesson on how to use the div-ing equipment, you’ll plunge intothe deep to swim with the tropicalfish and go eyeball to eyeball withother marine critters. See “Water-sports” in chapter 6.

• Skimming over the Ocean in aKayak: Glide silently over thewater, hearing only the sound ofyour paddle dipping beneath thesurface. This is the way the earlyHawaiians traveled along thecoastline. You’ll be eye level andup close and personal with theocean and the coastline, exploringareas you can’t get to any otherway. Venture out on your own, orgo with an experienced guide—either way, you won’t be sorry. See“Watersports” in chapter 6.

• Exploring a Lava Tube: Mostpeople come to Maui to get out-doors and soak up some Hawaiiansunshine, but don’t miss theopportunity to see firsthand howvolcanic islands were formed.With Maui Cave Adventures(& 808/248-7308), you can hikeinto the subterranean passages of ahuge, extinct lava tube with 40-foot ceilings—an offbeat adven-ture and a geology lesson youwon’t soon forget. See “Biking,

Horseback Riding & Other Out-door Activities” in chapter 6.

• Seeing the Stars from Inside aVolcanic Crater: Driving up tosee the sunrise is a trip you’ll neverforget, but to really experienceHaleakala, plan to hike in andspend the night. To get a feel forwhy the ancient Hawaiians con-sidered this one of the most sacredplaces on the island, you simplyhave to wander into the heart ofthe dormant volcano, where you’llfind some 27 miles of hikingtrails, two camping sites, andthree cabins. See “Hiking &Camping” in chapter 6 and“House of the Sun: HaleakalaNational Park” in chapter 7.

• Hiking to a Waterfall: There arewaterfalls, and there are water-falls; the magnificent 400-footWaimoku Falls, in Oheo Gulchoutside of Hana, are worth thelong drive and the uphill hike youhave to take to get there. The fallsare surrounded by lush green fernsand wild orchids, and you caneven stop to take a dip in the poolat the top of Makahiku Falls onthe way. See “Hiking & Camp-ing” in chapter 6.

• Flying over the Remote WestMaui Mountains: Your helicopterstreaks low over razor-thin cliffs,then flutters past sparkling water-falls and down into the canyonsand valleys of the inaccessibleWest Maui Mountains. There’s somuch beauty to absorb that it allgoes by in a rush. You’ll neverwant to stop flying over this spec-tacular, surreal landscape—and it’sthe only way to see the dazzlingbeauty of the prehistoric area of

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Maui. See “By Air, Land & Sea:Guided Island Adventures” inchapter 7.

• Taking a Drive on the WildSide: Mother Nature’s wild side,that is—on the Kahekili Highwayon Maui’s northeast coast. Thisback-to-nature experience willtake you past ancient Hawaiianheiau (temples); along steepravines; and by rolling pastures,tumbling waterfalls, explodingblowholes, crashing surf, andjagged lava coastlines. You’ll wan-der through the tiny Hawaiian vil-lage of Kahakuloa and around the“head” of Maui to the Marine LifeConservation Area of Honolua-Mokuleia and on to the resort ofKapalua. You’ll remember this

adventure for years. See “Lahaina& West Maui” in chapter 7.

• Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa:Even if you have only 1 day tospend on Molokai, spend it on amule. The Molokai Mule Ride (& 800/567-7550) trek from“topside” Molokai to the Kalau-papa National Historic Park(Father Damien’s world-famousleper colony) is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. The cliffs aretaller than 300-story skyscrapers,and the narrow 3-mile trailincludes 26 dizzying switchbacks,but Buzzy Sproat has never lostone of his trustworthy mules (orany riders) on the difficult trail.The mules make the trek daily,rain or shine. See “Seeing theSights” in chapter 10.

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4 The Best of Underwater MauiAn entirely different Maui greets any-one with a face mask, snorkel, andfins. Under the sea, you’ll find schoolsof brilliant tropical fish, green sea tur-tles, quick-moving game fish, slack-jawed moray eels, and prehistoric-looking coral. It’s a kaleidoscope ofcolor and wonder.

• Black Rock: This spot, located onthe Kaanapali Beach just off theSheraton Maui Resort, is excellentfor beginner snorkelers during theday and for scuba divers at night.Schools of fish congregate at thebase of the rock and are so used tosnorkelers that they go about theirbusiness as if no one were around.If you take the time to look closelyat the crannies of the rock, you’llfind lion fish in fairly shallowwater. At night (when a few out-fitters run night dives here), lob-sters, Spanish dancers, and eelscome out. See “Kaanapali Beach”under “Beaches” in chapter 6.

• Olowalu: When the wind is blow-ing and the waves are crashing

everywhere else, Olowalu, thesmall area 5 miles south ofLahaina, can be a scene of totalcalm—perfect for snorkeling anddiving. You’ll find a good snorkel-ing area around mile marker 14.You might have to swim about 50 to 75 feet; when you get to thelarge field of finger coral in 10 to15 feet of water, you’re there.You’ll see a turtle-cleaning stationhere, where turtles line up to havesmall cleaner wrasses pick offsmall parasites. This is also a goodspot to see crown-of-thorns star-fish, puffer fish, and lots of juve-nile fish. See “Watersports” inchapter 6 and “Lahaina & WestMaui” in chapter 7.

• Hawaiian Reef: Scuba divers lovethis area off the Kihei-Waileacoast because it has a good cross-section of topography and marinelife typical of Hawaiian waters.Diving to depths of 85 feet, you’llsee everything from lava forma-tions and coral reef to sand and

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rubble, plus a diverse range ofboth shallow- and deep-watercreatures. See the box “An ExpertShares His Secrets: Maui’s BestDives” in chapter 6.

• Third Tank: Scuba divers lookingfor a photo opportunity will findit at this artificial reef, located offMakena Beach at 80 feet. ThisWorld War II tank acts like a fishmagnet—because it’s the onlylarge solid object in the area, anyfish or invertebrate looking for asafe home comes here. Surround-ing the tank is a cloak of schoolingsnappers and goatfish just waitingfor a photographer with a wide-angle lens. It’s small, but the ThirdTank is loaded with more marinelife per square inch than any siteoff Maui. See the box “An ExpertShares His Secrets: Maui’s BestDives” in chapter 6.

• Molokini: Shaped like a crescentmoon, this islet’s shallow concaveside serves as a sheltering backstopagainst sea currents for tiny tropi-cal fish; on its opposite side is a

deep-water cliff inhabited byspiny lobsters, moray eels, andwhite-tipped sharks. Neophytesnorkelers report to the concaveside; experienced scuba divers, thecliff side. Either way, the clearwater and abundant marine lifemake this islet off the Makenacoast one of Hawaii’s most popu-lar dive spots. See “Watersports”in chapter 6.

• Ahihi-Kinau Natural Preserve:Fishing is strictly kapu (forbidden)in Ahihi Bay (at the end of theroad in South Maui), and the fishseem to know it; they’re every-where in this series of rocky covesand black-lava tide pools. Theblack, barren, lunarlike landstands in stark contrast to thegreen-blue water, which is hometo a sparkling mosaic of tropicalfish. Scuba divers might want tocheck out La Pérouse Pinnacle inthe middle of La Pérouse Bay;clouds of damsel fish and trigger-fish will greet you on the surface.See “Watersports” in chapter 6.

T H E B E S T G O L F C O U R S E S 11

5 The Best Golf Courses• Kaanapali Courses (& 808/661-

3691): All golfers, from highhandicappers to near-pros, willlove these two challenging courses.The North Course is a true RobertTrent Jones, Jr. design: an abun-dance of wide bunkers; severallong, stretched-out tees; and thelargest, most contoured greens onMaui. The South Course is anArthur Jack Snyder design;although shorter than the NorthCourse, it does require more accu-racy on the narrow, hilly fairways.Just like its sibling course, it has awater hazard on its final hole, so don’t tally up your score carduntil you sink your final putt. Seep. 181.

• Kapalua Resort Courses (& 877/527-2582): Kapalua is probablythe best nationally known golfresort in Hawaii, due to the PGAKapalua Mercedes played hereeach January. The Bay Course andthe Village Course are vintageArnold Palmer designs; the newPlantation Course is a strongentry from Ben Crenshaw and Bill Coore. All sit on Maui’swindswept northwestern shore, atthe rolling foothills of Puu Kukui,the summit of the West MauiMountains. See p. 181.

• Wailea Courses (& 888/328-MAUI): On the sunbaked southshore of Maui stands WaileaResort, the hot spot for golf in the

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islands. You’ll find great golf atthese three resort courses: TheBlue course is an Arthur Jack Sny-der design, and the Emerald andGold courses are both by RobertTrent Jones, Jr. All boast outstand-ing views of the Pacific and themid–Hawaiian Islands. See p. 182.

• Makena Courses (& 808/879-3344): Here you’ll find 36 holesby “Mr. Hawaii Golf”—RobertTrent Jones, Jr.—at his best. Add to that spectacular views:Molokini islet looms in the back-ground, humpback whales gam-bol offshore in winter, and thetropical sunsets are spectacular.The South Course has magnifi-cent views (bring your camera)and is kinder to golfers whohaven’t played for a while. TheNorth Course is more difficult butalso more stunning. The 13thhole, located partway up themountain, has a view that makes

most golfers stop and stare. Thenext hole is even more memo-rable: a 200-foot drop between teeand green. See p. 182.

• The Lanai Courses: For qualityand seclusion, nothing in Hawaiican touch Lanai’s two golf-resortofferings. The Experience atKoele (& 800/321-4666),designed by Ted Robinson andGreg Norman, and The Chal-lenge at Manele (& 800/321-4666), a wonderful Jack Nicklauscourse with ocean views fromevery hole, both rate amongHawaii’s best courses. Both aretremendous fun to play, with TheExperience featuring the par-four8th hole, which drops some 150yards from tee to fairway, and TheChallenge boasting the par-three12th, which plays from one cliffside to another over a Pacificinlet—one of the most stunningholes in Hawaii. See p. 298.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M A U I12

6 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts• Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (& 800/

262-8440 or 808/669-6200; www.ritzcarlton.com): With its greatlocation, style, and loads of hospi-tality, this is the best Ritz any-where. Situated on the coastbelow the picturesque West MauiMountains, this grand, breezyhotel overlooks the Pacific andMolokai across the channel. Thenatural setting, on an old coastalpineapple plantation, is the pic-ture of tranquillity. The service islegendary; the golf courses aredaunting; and the nearby beachesare perfect for snorkeling, diving,and just relaxing. See p. 101.

• Sheraton Maui (& 800/782-9488 or 808/661-0031; www.sheraton-maui.com): Offering thebest location on Kaanapali Beach,recent renovations, and a great“hassle-free” experience, the Sher-aton is my pick of Kaanapali

hotels. This is the place for travel-ers who just want to arrive, haveeverything ready for them, and geton with their vacation. (Sheratonhas a “no-hassle” check-in: Thevalet takes you and your luggagestraight to your room, whichmeans no time wasted standing inline at registration.) See p. 92.

• Kaanapali Alii (& 800/642-6284 or 808/661-3330; www.kaanapali-alii.com): The height ofluxury, these oceanfront condo-minium units (right on KaanapaliBeach) combine all the amenitiesof a luxury hotel (including a 24-hr. front desk) with the conven-ience of a condominium. One-bedroom units (1,500 sq. ft.) startat $350 for four. The beachsiderecreation area includes a swim-ming pool, plus a separate chil-dren’s pool, whirlpool, gas barbe-cue grills and picnic areas, exercise

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rooms, saunas, and tennis courts.See p. 92.

• Hyatt Regency Maui (& 800/233-1234 or 808/661-1234; www.maui.hyatt.com): Spa-goers willlove Hawaii’s only oceanfront spa.The 806 rooms of this fantasyresort have undergone $19 mil-lion in renovations. Spread outamong three towers, the roomshave very comfortable separate sit-ting areas and private lanais witheye-popping views. This hugeplace covers some 40 acres; even ifyou don’t stay here, you mightwant to walk through the expan-sive tree-filled atrium and theparklike grounds. See p. 89.

• Four Seasons Resort Maui atWailea (& 800/334-MAUI [6284]or 808/874-8000; www.fshr.com):This is the ultimate beach hotel forlatter-day royals, offering excellentcuisine, spacious rooms, graciousservice, and Wailea Beach—one ofMaui’s best gold-sand beaches—right outside the front door. Everyroom has at least a partial oceanview from a private lanai. The lux-ury suites are as big as some Hon-olulu condos, and full of marble anddeluxe appointments. See p. 110.

• Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa (& 800/888-6100 or808/875-1234; www.grandwailea.com): There’s nothing subtle orunderstated about it, but manytravelers adore this over-the-topfantasy resort. It has 10,000 tropi-cal plants in the lobby; a fabulouspool with slides, waterfalls, andrapids; Hawaii’s largest spa; plushoceanview rooms; and a superblocation on a gorgeous stretch ofbeach. See p. 111.

• The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui(& 800/659-4100 or 808/875-4100; www.kealani.com): This all-suite luxury hotel in Wailea has

840-square-foot suites featuringkitchenettes with microwaves andcoffeemakers; living rooms withhigh-tech media centers and pull-out sofa beds (great if you have thekids in tow); marble wet bars; andspacious bedrooms. The oversizemarble bathrooms have separateshowers big enough for a party.Large lanais off the bedrooms andliving rooms overlook the poolsand lawns, with views that sweepright down to the white-sandbeach. See p. 110.

• Hotel Hana-Maui (& 800/321-HANA or 808/248-8211; www.hotelhanamaui.com): PictureShangri-La, Hawaiian-style: 66acres rolling down to the sea in aremote Hawaiian village, with awellness center, two pools, andaccess to one of the best beaches inHana. This is the atmosphere, thelandscape, and the culture of oldHawaii set in the latest accommo-dations of the 21st century. Awhite-sand beach just a 5-minuteshuttle away, top-notch wellnesscenter, and numerous activities(horseback riding, mountain bicy-cles, tennis, pitch and putt golf )all add up to make this one of thetop resorts in the state. See p. 121.

• The Lodge at Koele (Lanai; & 800/321-4666; www.lanai-resorts.com); The Lodge, as folkshere call it, stands in a 21-acregrove of Norfolk Island pines at1,700 feet above sea level, 8 milesinland from any beach. The 102-room resort resembles a grandEnglish country estate. Inside,heavy timbers, beamed ceilings,and the two huge stone fireplacesof the Great Hall complete thelook. The guest rooms continuethe English theme with four-poster beds, sitting areas (com-plete with window seats), flowery

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wallpaper, formal writing desks,and luxury bathrooms with over-size tubs. There are plenty of

activities here and at the sisterresort down the hill, on the ocean,the Manele Bay Resort. See p 288.

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7 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Napili Kai Beach Resort

(& 800/367-5030 or 808/669-6271; www.napilikai.com): Nes-tled in its own private white-sandcove, this property gives you achance to experience what Mauiwas like 30 years ago. Composedof a range of units (from hotelrooms to 2-bedroom suites),Napili Kai has all the comforts ofhome (including full kitchens),plus a restaurant on the property,and it’s within walking distance toKapalua’s top restaurants, shops,golf, and tennis. Prices start at$190. See p. 94.

• Kahana Sunset (& 800/669-1488 or 808/669-8011; www.kahanasunset.com): This is a greatchoice for families, featuring aseries of wooden condo unitsstair-stepping down the side of ahill to a postcard-perfect white-sand beach. The units feature fullkitchens, washers/dryers, largelanais with terrific views, andsleeper sofas (starting at $130 for 4). See p. 97.

• Lahaina Inn (& 800/669-3444or 808/661-0577; www.lahainainn.com): If the romance of his-toric Lahaina catches your fancy, astay here will really complete theexperience. Built in 1938 as a gen-eral store, it has been restored as a charming, Victorian antique–filled inn right in the heart oftown, with rooms as low as $119.Downstairs you’ll find one ofHawaii’s most popular storefrontbistros, David Paul’s LahainaGrill. See p. 86.

• Plantation Inn (& 800/433-6815 or 808/667-9225; www.theplantationinn.com): Attentionromantic couples: You need look

no further. This charming Lahainahotel looks like it’s been here 100years or more, but looks can bedeceiving. The Victorian-style innis actually of 1990s vintage—anartful deception. The rooms areromantic to the max, tastefullydone with period furniture, hard-wood floors, stained glass, ceilingfans, and four-poster canopy beds.The rooms wrap around the largepool and deck; also on-site are aspa and an elegant pavilion lounge,where breakfast is served, all start-ing at $157 double. See p. 87.

• Maui Coast Hotel (& 800/895-MAUI or 808/874-6284; www.mauicoasthotel.com): This off-beach mid-rise is one of the onlymoderately priced hotels in Kihei(though the Kihei area has lots ofaffordable condo complexes). Onechief advantage of this hotel is itslocation: It’s about a block fromKamaole Beach Park I, withplenty of bars, restaurants, andshopping within walking distance(Jamison’s Grill & Bar is nextdoor). A $2.5 million renovationof all the furniture and soft goodsin the rooms plus the remodeledpublic areas (lobby, pool, restau-rant, bar) have made this moder-ate hotel into a luxury resort witha reasonable price tag (starting at$165). See p. 105.

• Punahoa Beach Apartments(& 800/564-4380 or 808/879-2720; www.punahoa.com): Thissmall ocean-side Kihei condocomplex is hidden on a quiet sidestreet; the grassy lawn out frontrolls about 50 feet down to thebeach. You’ll find great snorkelingjust offshore and a popular surfingspot next door, with shopping and

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restaurants all within walking dis-tance. Every well-decorated unitfeatures a lanai with fabulousocean views, from $94. See p.106.

• Paniolo Hale (Molokai; & 800/367-2984 or 808/552-2731;www.paniolohaleresort.com): Thisis far and away Molokai’s mostcharming lodging, and probablyits best value. The two-story OldHawaii ranch-house design is airyand homey, with oak floors andwalls of folding-glass doors thatopen to huge screened verandas.The whole place overlooks theKaluakoi Golf Course, a green

barrier that separates these condos(which start at $95 for two) fromthe rest of Kaluakoi Resort. See p. 256.

• Hotel Lanai (Lanai; & 800/795-7211 or 808/565-7211; www.hotellanai.com): Lanai’s onlybudget lodging is a simple, down-home, plantation-era relic that hasrecently been Laura Ashley–ized.The Hotel Lanai is homey, funky,and fun—and, best of all, a realbargain (starting at $105 for two)compared to its ritzy neighbors.See p. 289.

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8 The Best Bed & Breakfasts• Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono

(& 800/305-4899 or 808/244-5897; www.mauiinn.com):Located in historic Wailuku, themost charming town in centralMaui, this restored 1924 formerplantation manager’s home is theplace to stay if you’re looking for anight in the old Hawaii of the1920s. The guest rooms are wideand spacious, with exotic ohia-wood floors and traditionalHawaiian quilts, starting at $120.The morning meal is a full gour-met breakfast served on theenclosed back lanai, or on a traydelivered to your room if you pre-fer. See p. 83.

• Guest House (& 800/621-8942or 808/661-8085; www.mauiguesthouse.com): This is one of thegreat bed-and-breakfast deals inLahaina: a charming inn offeringmore amenities than the expensiveKaanapali hotels just down theroad. The spacious home featuresfloor-to-ceiling windows, parquetfloors, and a large swimming pool.Guest rooms have quiet lanais andromantic hot tubs. Breakfasts are agourmet affair. All units are $129double. See p. 89.

• Two Mermaids on the Sunny-side of Maui B&B (& 800/262-9912 or 808/985-7488; www.bestbnb.com): Two avid scuba diversare the hosts at this very friendlyKihei B&B, professionally deco-rated in brilliant, tropical colors,complete with hand-painted art ofthe island (above and below thewater) in a quiet neighborhoodjust a short 10-minute walk fromthe beach. Comfy rooms from$115 with breakfast. See p. 109.

• What a Wonderful World B&B(& 800/943-5804 or 808/879-9103; www.amauibedandbreakfast.com): Another one of Kihei’sbest B&Bs offers a great centrallocation in town—just a half mileto Kamaole II Beach Park, 5 min-utes from Wailea golf courses, andconvenient to shopping andrestaurants. All rooms boast cook-ing facilities and private entrances,bathrooms, and phones. A family-style breakfast (eggs Benedict,Alaskan waffles, skillet eggs withmushroom sauce, fruit blintzes) isserved on the lanai, which hasviews of white-sand beaches, theWest Maui Mountains, andHaleakala. From $75. See p. 109.

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• Nona Lani Cottages (& 800/733-2688 or 808/879-2497; www.nonalanicottages.com): Picturethis: a grassy expanse dotted witheight cottages tucked amongpalm, fruit, and sweet-smellingflower trees, right across the streetfrom a white-sand beach. This isone of the great hidden deals inKihei. The cottages are tiny butcontain everything you’ll need. At $75 a night, this is a deal. Seep. 108.

• Wild Ginger Falls (& 808/573-1173; www.wildgingerfalls.com): This cozy, romantic, inti-mate cottage, hidden in MilikoGulch, just outside of Haliimaile,overlooks a stream with a water-fall, bamboo, sweet-smelling gin-ger and banana trees. It’s perfectfor honeymooners, lovers, andfans of Hawaiian art. You will bedelighted at the carefully placedmemorabilia throughout this 400-square-foot artistically decoratedHawaiian cottage (with additional156-sq.-ft. screened deck). Pricedat $125 double. See p. 118.

• Olinda Country Cottages & Inn (& 800/932-3435 or 808/572-1453; www.mauibnbcottages.com): Breathe the crisp, clean airof Olinda at this charming B&B,located on an 81⁄2-acre protea farmon the slopes of Haleakala andsurrounded by 35,000 acres ofranch lands (with miles of greathiking). The 5,000-square-footTudor mansion, refurbished andoutfitted with priceless antiques,has large windows with incrediblepanoramic views of all of Maui. Inaddition to the guest rooms in thecountry house, two cozy cottagesand a romantic country suite arealso available. From $140 withbreakfast. See p. 113.

• Malu Manu (& 888/878-6161or 808/878-6111; www.maui.net/~alive): Tucked into the side ofHaleakala Volcano at 4,000 feet,

in the Kula region, is this oldHawaiian estate. It offers a single-room cabin with a full kitchen,fireplace, and antiques for just$150. Built as a writer’s retreat inthe early 1900s, it’s one of themost romantic places to stay onMaui, with a panoramic view ofthe entire island from the frontdoor. See p. 114.

• Kili’s Cottage (& 800/262-9912or 808/985-7488; www.bestbnb.com): If you’re looking for a quietgetaway in the cool upcountry elevation of Kula, this sweet three-bedroom cottage with a largelanai, situated on 2 acres, is theperfect place. The price is right(just $105), and the numerousamenities make this a great placefor families: full kitchen, gas bar-becue, washer/dryer, even toys forthe kids. See p. 116.

• Ekena (& 808/248-7047; www.ekenamaui.com): Situated on 81⁄2acres in the hills above Hana, thisHawaiian-style wooden polehouse, with 360-degree views ofthe coastline, the ocean, andHana’s verdant rainforest, is per-fect for those in search of a quiet,peaceful vacation. Inside, the ele-gantly furnished home featuresfloor-to-ceiling sliding-glass doorsand a fully equipped kitchen(starting at $185 for two); outside,hiking trails into the rainforeststart right on the property.Beaches, waterfalls, and pools aremere minutes away. See p. 121.

• Hamoa Bay Bungalow (& 808/248-7884; www.hamoabay.com):This enchanting retreat sits on 4 verdant acres within walkingdistance of Hamoa Beach, justoutside Hana. The romantic, 600-square-foot, Balinese-style cottagehas a full kitchen and hot tub.This very private place is perfectfor honeymooners. The price? Just$250. See p. 122.

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• Heavenly Hana Inn (& 808/248-8442; www.heavenlyhanainn.com): Just a stone’s throw fromthe center of Hana is this tinyJapanese-style inn, where noattention to detail has beenspared. Flowers are everywhere,ceiling fans keep the rooms cool,and the delicious gourmet break-fast is served in a setting filledwith art. The 2 acres of groundsare impeccable, with tiny bridgesover a meandering stream andJapanese gardens. Rooms start at$190. See p. 123.

• Aloha Beach House (& 888/828-1008 or 808/828-1100; www.molokaivacation.com): Nestledon the lush East End of Molokailies this Hawaiian-style beachhouse sitting right on the white-sand beach of Waialua. Perfect forfamilies, this impeccably deco-rated two-bedroom, 1,600-square-foot beach house has a huge openliving/dining/kitchen area thatopens out to an old-fashionedporch for meals or just sitting inthe comfy chairs and watching theclouds roll by. Just $220 for up tofive. See p. 256.

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9 The Best Resort Spas• The Health Centre at the Four

Seasons Resort Maui (& 800/334-MAUI [6284] or 808/874-8000; www.fshr.com): Imaginethe sounds of the waves rolling onWailea Beach as you are sooth-ingly massaged in the privacy ofyour cabana, tucked into thebeachside foliage. This is the placeto come to be absolutely spoiled.Yes, there’s an excellent workoutarea and tons of great classes, buttheir specialty is hedonistic indul-gence. See p. 110.

• Spa Grande at the Grand WaileaResort Hotel & Spa (& 800/888-6100 or 808/875-1234;www.grandwailea.com): This isHawaii’s biggest spa, at 50,000square feet, with 40 treatmentrooms. The spa incorporates thebest of the Old World (romanticceiling murals, larger-than-lifeRoman-style sculptures, mam-moth Greek columns, huge Euro-pean tubs), the finest Easterntraditions (a full Japanese-styletraditional bath and various exotictreatments from India), and thelure of the islands (tropical foliage,ancient Hawaiian treatments, andisland products). This spa haseverything from a top fitness

center to a menu of classes and isconstantly on the cutting edge ofthe latest trends. See p. 111.

• Spa Kea Lani at The FairmontKea Lani Maui (& 800/659-4100 or 808/875-4100; www.kealani.com): This intimate, ArtDeco boutique spa (just a littleover 5,000 sq. ft., with nine treat-ment rooms), which opened in1999, is the place for personal andprivate attention. The fitness cen-ter next door is open 24 hours (a rarity in Hawaiian resorts) witha personal trainer on duty some14 hours a day. See p. 110.

• Spa Moana at the Hyatt RegencyMaui (& 800/233-1234 or 808/661-1234; www.maui.hyatt.com):The island’s first oceanfront spa, a9,000-square-foot facility, openedrecently with a $3.5 million pricetag. The new spa offers an open-air exercise lanai, wet treatmentrooms, massage rooms, a relax-ation lounge, sauna and steamrooms, a Roman pool illuminatedby overhead skylights, and a duettreatment suite for couples. See p. 89.

• Spa at Ritz-Carlton Kapalua(& 800/262-8440 or 808/669-6200; www.ritzcarlton.com): Book

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a massage on the beach. The spaitself is welcoming and wonderful,but there is nothing like smellingthe salt in the air and feeling the

gentle caressing of the wind inyour hair while experiencing atrue Hawaiian massage. See p. 101.

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Pampering in Paradise

Hawaii’s spas have raised the art of relaxation and healing to a newlevel. The traditional Greco-Roman–style spas, with lots of marble andbig tubs in closed rooms, have evolved into airy, open facilities thatembrace the tropics. Spa goers in Hawaii are looking for a sense ofplace, seeped in the culture. They want to hear the sound of theocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. Theywant to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatmentsthey can get only in the islands.

The spas of Hawaii, once nearly exclusively patronized by women,are now attracting more male clients. There are special massages forchildren and pregnant women, and some spas have created programsto nurture and relax brides on their big day.

Today’s spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. There is no longerplain, ordinary massage, but Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aromather-apy (with sweet-smelling oils), craniosacral (massaging the head), shi-atsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncture points), Thai(another oilless massage involving stretching), and hot stone (withheated, and sometimes cold, rocks). There are even side-by-side mas-sages for couples. The truly decadent might even try a duo massage—not one, but two massage therapists working on you at once.

Massages are just the beginning. Body treatments, for the entirebody or for just the face, involve a variety of herbal wraps, masks, orscrubs using a range of ingredients from seaweed to salt to mud, withor without accompanying aromatherapy, lights, and music.

Moments

10 The Best Restaurants• Mañana Garage (& 808/873-

0220): It’s great fun dining here,and the food is fantastic, too. Tuckinto fabulous arepas (cornmeal-cheese griddle cakes with smokedsalmon), fried green tomatoes,excellent ceviche, and a host ofnew flavors in an ambience ofspirited color and industrial edge.You’ll dine among vertical garagedoors, hubcap table bases, cobaltwalls, and chrome accents, withBuena Vista Social Club on thesound system and very hip serverswho will bring you the best

desserts in this neck of thewoods—Kahului, of all places!The chef, Tom Lelli, came herefrom Haliimaile General Store.See p. 125.

• A Saigon Cafe (& 808/243-9560): Jennifer Nguyen’s un-marked dining room in an oddcorner of Wailuku is alwayspacked, a tribute to her clean,crisp Vietnamese cuisine—andthe Maui grapevine. Grab a roundof rice paper and wrap your ownVietnamese “burrito” of tofu, noo-dles, and vegetables. Lemongrass

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shrimp, curries, and Nhung Dam,the Vietnamese version of fondue,are among the solid hits, but thespicy, crisped Dungeness crab istops. See p. 127.

• Café O’Lei (& 808/661-9492):The delicious, creative cuisine ofDana Pastula, who managed fancyrestaurants on Lanai and in Waileabefore opening her own, has tworestaurants serving her fresh,healthy cuisine: Café O’LeiLahaina (p. 132) and the Ma’alaeaGrill (p. 144). For reasonablypriced, interesting, and memo-rable meals, don’t miss the chanceto eat at the O’Leis.

• David Paul’s Lahaina Grill(& 808/667-5117): Tirelesslypopular and universally appreci-ated for its high quality, DavidPaul’s is still most folks’ favorite

Maui eatery—even without DavidPaul. No one seems to tire of thekalua duck he turned into a Mauiinstitution, or the Kona coffee–roasted rack of lamb, or the much-imitated tequila shrimp. Themenu changes often, but thankgoodness the room doesn’t; itspressed-tin ceilings and 1890sdecor continue to intrigue. See p. 129.

• Gerard’s (& 808/661-8939):Proving that French is fabulous,particularly in the land of sushiand sashimi, Gerard Reversade isthe Gallic gastronome who deliv-ers ecstasy with every bite. Fromthe rack of lamb to the spinachsalad and oyster mushrooms inpuff pastry, every meal is memo-rable. The fairy lights on theveranda in the balmy outdoor

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After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an arrayof water treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and anassortment of colored crystals, oils, and scents.

Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer arange of alternative healthcare like acupuncture, chiropractic, andother exotic treatments like ayurvedic and siddha from India or reikifrom Japan. Many places offer specialized, cutting-edge treatments,like the Grand Wailea Resort’s full-spectrum color-light therapy pod(based on NASA’s work with astronauts).

Once your body has been pampered, spas also offer a range of fit-ness facilities (weight-training equipment, racquetball, tennis, golf,and so on) and classes (yoga, aerobics, step, spinning, stretch, tai chi,kickboxing, aquacize, and so on). Several even offer adventure fitnesspackages (from bicycling to snorkeling). For the nonadventurous, mostspas have salons dedicated to hair and nail care and makeup.

If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, not to worry; all the spas inHawaii have individual consultants who will help you design an appro-priate treatment program to fit your individual needs.

Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. Massages aregenerally $95 to $130 for 50 minutes and $145 to $180 for 80 minutes;body treatments are in the $120 to $165 range; and alternative health-care treatments can be as high as $150 to $220. But you may think it’sworth the expense to banish your tension and stress.

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Lahaina setting are the icing onthe gâteau. See p. 130.

• Swan Court (& 808/661-1234):For a romantic setting with can-dlelight, a Japanese garden, andswans gliding by serenely, this isthe ticket. It isn’t often that I finda fine dining experience in a hotelthat is terrific, but this is theexception to the rule. In additionto excellent seafood, impeccableservice, and a dreamy ocean view,Swan Court is a wonderful changeof pace, a year-round Valentinedinner where you can dress upand impress your date. See p. 137.

• Roy’s Kahana Bar & Grill/Roy’sNicolina Restaurant (& 808/669-6999; www.roysrestaurant.com): These sibling restaurants arenext door to each other, offer thesame menu, and are busy, busy,busy. They bustle with young, hipservers impeccably trained todeliver blackened ahi or perfectlyseared lemongrass shutome (broad-bill swordfish) hot to your table,in rooms that sizzle with cross-cultural tastings. See p. 140.

• Vino (& 808/661-VINO): Prob-ably the best Italian food on Mauiis served at this exquisite restau-rant, overlooking the rolling hillsof the Kapalua Golf Course. Thesurprise is that it’s run by twoJapanese guys—D.K. Kodama,chef and owner of Sansei SeafoodRestaurant and Sushi Bar (p. 142)and master sommelier ChuckFuruya. The two teamed up tocreate a culinary adventure forfoodies. Every dish is perfectlypaired with wine (the wine listalone features more than 150selections, many of them estatewines exclusive to Vino). Themenu changes constantly butalways has homemade pastas andseafood masterpieces. See p. 143.

• The Bay Club (& 808/669-8008): The first thing you noticeis the remarkable view: The sunsets behind the rolling surf ofKapalua Bay, with the island ofMolokai in the background. Theview alone would be worth eatinghere, but luckily, the food, espe-cially the seafood, promises amemorable dining experience.This intimate restaurant (with apiano bar at one end) featuressuch culinary masterpieces assteamed Kona lobster in bananaleaf; ahi and cured salmonsashimi; macadamia-nut-crustedmahimahi with papaya pineapplesalsa and passion fruit salsa; andHawaiian seafood bouillabaisse.Not to be missed. See p. 141.

• Sansei Seafood Restaurant andSushi Bar (& 808/669-6286 in Kapalua and 808/879-0004 inKihei): Relentlessly popular, Sanseiserves sushi, and then some: handrolls warm and cold, udon andramen, and the signature Asianrock-shrimp cake with the oh-so-complex lime chili butter andcilantro pesto. This Kapalua choiceis flavor central—simplicity is notthe strong suit, so be prepared for some busy tasting. Anotherbranch has opened in Kihei. See p. 142.

• Plantation House Restaurant(& 808/669-6299): At Planta-tion House, there are teak tables, afireplace, open sides, mountainand ocean views, and chef AlexStanislaw’s love for Mediterraneanflavors and preparations. It’s afriendly, comfortable restaurantwith great food from breakfast todinner, from sublime eggs Mediter-ranean to polenta, crab cakes, sev-eral preparations of fish, pork ten-derloin, filet mignon, and otherdelights at dinner. The ambienceis superb. See p. 141.

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• Joe’s Bar & Grill (& 808/875-7767; www.joesbarandgrill.com): The 360-degree view spansthe Wailea golf course, tenniscourts, ocean, and Haleakala—aworthy setting for Beverly Gan-non’s style of American homecooking with a regional twist (alsosee Haliimaile General Storebelow). The hearty staples includeexcellent mashed potatoes, lobster,fresh fish, and filet mignon, butthe meatloaf (a whole loaf, likeMom used to make) seems toupstage them all. See p. 147.

• Moana Bakery & Café (& 808/579-9999): In the unlikely loca-tion of Paia, the Moana gets high

marks for its stylish concretefloors, high ceilings, booths andcafe tables, and fabulous food.Don Ritchey, formerly a chef atHaliimaile General Store, has cre-ated the perfect Paia eatery, acasual bakery-cafe that highlightshis stellar skills. It may not looklike much from the outside, butdon’t be fooled. This innovativeeatery serves breakfast, lunch, anddinner, and offers live entertain-ment at night. See p. 153.

• Haliimaile General Store(& 808/572-2666): More than adecade later, Bev Gannon, one ofthe 12 original Hawaii RegionalCuisine chefs, is still going strong

T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T S 21

A Night to Remember: Maui’s Top Luau

The Old Lahaina Luau (& 800/248-5828 or 808/667-1998) has alwaysbeen at the leading edge of cultural entertainment in Hawaii; it’s one-third entertainment, one-third good food, and one-third ambience. Atits new and more spacious location at the northern end of Lahaina,there’s more of everything, particularly those qualities I’ve come tolove: authenticity, intimacy, hospitality, cultural integrity, and sheerromantic beauty. This is Maui’s top luau and one of my two favoritesin the state. With the expansion of the luau in its 1-acre site just ocean-side of the Lahaina Cannery, what was peerless has become even better.

Local craftspeople display their wares only a few feet from theocean. Seating is provided on lauhala mats for those wishing to dineas the traditional Hawaiians did, but there are tables for everyone else.Staging has been thoughtfully planned, so that the audience faces the ocean as well as the show; hidden underground dressing rooms allow the dancers dramatic entrances and exits. Thatched buildings,amphitheater seating, and the backdrop of a Lahaina sunset areamong the event’s unforgettable features.

The luau begins at sunset and features Tahitian and Hawaiian enter-tainment, including ancient hula, hula from the missionary era, mod-ern hula, and an intelligent narrative on the dance’s rocky course ofsurvival into modern times. The sophisticated entertainment is botheducational and riveting, even for jaded locals, and the top-qualityfood is as much Pacific Rim as authentically Hawaiian, served from anopen-air thatched structure. No watered-down mai tais, either—theseare the real thing. You won’t soon forget the genuine hospitality andenthusiasm of the staff. The cost is $82 for adults, $52 for children 12and under, plus tax.

Moments

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at her foodie haven in the pineapplefields. You’ll dine at tables set on oldwood floors under high ceilings.The food, a blend of eclectic Amer-ican with ethnic touches, bridgesHawaii with Gannon’s Texas rootsand puts an innovative spin onHawaii Regional Cuisine. Exam-ples include sashimi napoleon andthe house salad—island greens withmandarin oranges, onions, toastedwalnuts, and blue-cheese crumble.See p. 149.

• Casanova Italian Restaurant(& 808/572-0220): Yes, I still loveCasanova in upcountry Makawao,and for more than one reason: gar-lic spinach topped with Parmesanand pine nuts, polenta with radic-chio, tiramisu, and the spaghettifradiavolo. This is pasta heaven andthe center of night-life on this halfof the island. See p. 149.

• Henry Clay’s Rotisserie (HotelLanai, Lanai City; & 808/565-7211): Henry Clay Richardson,

a New Orleans native, has madesome welcome changes to Lanai’sdining landscape with his rusticinn in the middle of Lanai City.The menu focuses on Frenchcountry fare: fresh meats, seafood,and local produce in assertivepreparations. The decor consistsof plates on the pine-paneledwalls, chintz curtains, peach table-cloths and hunter-green napkins,and a roaring fireplace. See p. 292.

• Pele’s Other Garden (& 808/565-9628): You do not have tospend a fortune at the high-pricedeateries at the two resorts onLanai; this charming bistro in theheart of Lanai City has a full-scaleNew York deli (yummy pizzas),and you can also get box lunchesand picnic baskets to go. Dinner isnow served on china, not paper,with tablecloths under sconces—areal dining room! See p. 293.

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11 The Best Shops & Galleries• Summerhouse (& 808/871-

1320): Bright and sassy tropicalwear, and the jewelry and acces-sories to go with it, are a cut above at Kahului’s Summerhouse.T-shirts are tailored and in day-to-evening colors, while dresses aregood for either the office or anight out. See p. 226.

• Bailey House Gift Shop (& 808/244-3326): You can travel Hawaiiand peruse its past with the assemblage of made-in-Hawaiiitems at this museum gift shop in Wailuku. Tropical preserves,Hawaiian music, pareus, prints byesteemed Hawaiian artists, cook-books, hatbands, and magnificentwood bowls reflect a discerningstandard of selection. Unequaledfor Hawaiian treasures on Maui.See p. 226.

• Brown-Kobayashi (& 808/242-0804): At this quiet, tasteful, andelegant Asian shop in Wailuku,the selection of antiques and col-lectibles changes constantly butreflects an unwavering sense ofgracious living. There are old andnew European and Hawaiianobjects, from koa furniture (whichdisappears fast) to lacquerware,Bakelite jewelry, Peking glassbeads, and a few priceless pieces ofantique ivory. Every square inch isa treasure trove. See p. 227.

• Sig Zane Designs Wailuku (& 808/249-8997): This Hiloicon didn’t skip a beat in winningthe hearts of Maui residents whenhe moved to Wailuku. Located onWailuku’s Market Street, his newshop of aloha wear and Hawaiian

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lifestyle treasures is a boon to his-toric Wailuku. See p. 227.

• Hui No’eau Visual Arts Center(& 808/572-6560): Half theexperience is the center itself, oneof Maui’s historic treasures: a strik-ingly designed 1917 kamaaina(native-born or old-timer) estateon 9 acres in Makawao; two ofMaui’s largest hybrid Cook andNorfolk pines; and an art centerwith classes, exhibitions, anddemonstrations. The gift shop isas memorable as the rest of it.You’ll find one-of-a-kind works bylocal artists, from prints to jewelryand pottery. See “UpcountryMaui” in chapter 8.

• Village Galleries (& 808/661-4402 in Lahaina, or 808/669-1800 in Kapalua): Maui’s oldestgalleries have maintained highstandards and the respect of apublic that is increasingly impa-tient with clichéd island art. Onexhibit are the finest contempo-rary Maui artists in all media, witha discerning selection of hand-crafted jewelry. In Lahaina, thenew contemporary gallery has alarger selection of jewelry, ceram-ics, glass, and gift items, as well aspaintings and prints. See p. 230and p. 232.

• Viewpoints Gallery (& 808/572-5979): I love this airy, well-designed Makawao gallery and itshelpful staff, which complementthe fine Maui art: paintings,sculpture, jewelry, prints, woods,and glass. This is Maui’s only fine-arts cooperative, showcasing thework of dozens of local artists. See p. 236.

• Hana Coast Gallery (& 808/248-8636): This gallery is a goodreason to go to Hana: It’s anesthetic and cultural experiencethat informs as it enlightens.

Tucked away in the posh hide-away hotel, the gallery is knownfor its high level of curatorshipand commitment to the culturalart of Hawaii. The 3,000-square-foot gallery is devoted entirely toHawaiian artists. Dozens of well-established local artists displaytheir sculptures, paintings, prints,feather work, stonework, andcarvings in displays that are sonatural they could well exist insomeone’s home. The award-winning gallery has steered clearof trendiness and unfortunatetastes. See p. 237.

• Dis ’N Dat (& 866-DISNDAT or808/565-9170, www.disndatlanai.com): This is my favorite shop onLanai, where Barry (Dis) and Susie(Dat) have collected the unusual,the bizarre and the hilariouslyfunny. You’ll find everything fromfinely-crafted teak and exotic woodsculptures and carvings to mobilesand wind chimes (the more outra-geous, the better), plus an impres-sive line of hand-made jewelry,stained glass, and more. See p. 303.

• The Local Gentry (& 808/565-9130): This wonderful boutique,on the island of Lanai, featuresclothing and accessories that arenot the standard resort-shop fare.You’ll find fabulous silk alohashirts by Iolani; Putumayo sepa-rates (perfect for Hawaii) in easy-care fabrics; a fabulous line of silkaloha shirts by Tiki; top-qualityhemp-linen camp shirts; inexpen-sive sarongs; fabulous socks; andthe Tommy Bahama line for menand women. There are also greatT-shirts, swimwear, jewelry, bathproducts, picture frames, jeans,chic sunglasses, and offbeat san-dals. The most recent additionsare wonderful children’s clothes.See p. 304.

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