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The Best of Ireland from $90 a Day
“The modern American tourist,” wrote historian Daniel J. Boorstin, “has come toexpect both more strangeness and more familiarity than the world naturally offers.”That said, Ireland continues to offer more than its share of both.
At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The language isthe same, only more lyrical; the faces are familiar; the food, recognizable; the stout,legendary. Many visitors, notably Irish Americans, experience their arrival as a kind ofhomecoming. It takes a while for this superficial reverie to wear off. When it does, theother face of Ireland shows itself, and this is when the country becomes truly exciting.
Ireland is a place of profound contradiction and complexity. For one thing, it is atthe same time both ancient and adolescent. Ireland’s age is obvious to anyone with acar. Within a half-day drive of downtown Dublin lie Neolithic tombs, Bronze Ageforts, early Christian monastic sites, Viking walls, and Georgian estates—enoughantiquity to make your head spin, all in plain sight. Centuries-old castles are as commonplace in Ireland as Wal-Mart stores are in the United States. The Irish pastdoesn’t exist just in books; it’s in the backyard. A shovel, digging for peat or potatoes,may well strike a 5,000-year-old grave. Thousands of unexcavated ancient sites litterthe countryside. Any visitor to Ireland who ventures beyond its shops and pubs willsoon be struck by how the country revels in its age.
What is less obvious is how new Ireland is as a nation. The Republic of Ireland, withits own constitution and currency, is barely 50 years old. Mary McAleese, the currentpresident of Ireland, is only the eighth person to hold that office. In political age, Ire-land, for all its antiquity, is a mere pup. Like any adolescent, it’s doing many thingsfor the first time, and at least a few of its contradictions make sense when you keepthat in mind. Compounding Ireland’s youth as a nation is the youth of its people.Roughly half of the population is under 25, and nearly a quarter is under 15. Thismeans that in some homes, those who once fought for Irish independence are livingunder the same roof with those who have never known anything else. In these samehomes, the gap between generations is often seismic. It is indeed curious that in acountry where what happened 1,000 years ago reads like yesterday’s news, it is com-mon to feel old and outnumbered at 30.
Ireland’s past has been remarkably tumultuous, inspiring a tradition of courage,humor, and creativity. Change is nothing new to the island, yet the rate and scale ofthe changes occurring today are without precedent. And that’s where the contradic-tions become so endearing, like the old farmer in a tweed cap who is afraid of com-puters but rings his bookmaker on a cellphone. Like the publican progressive enoughto have a website but traditional enough to not like seeing a woman drinking from a
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pint glass. (Older folks often tsk-tsk that “ladies should drink from half-pint glasses.”)Like the grocer–cum–post office or, better still, the grocer–cum–hardwarestore–cum–pub, both common entities in many a rural town. Like the nationalweather forecasts, which, even with the help of a gazillion satellites, still manage toappear so parochially informal. One radio weatherman actually offered this by way ofa forecast: “It’s dry and clear across most of the country, and let’s hope it stays thatway.” The magic of today’s Ireland lies in these daily slices of life.
1 The Best Websites• Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland.ie):
Bord Fáilte’s site is both easy to navi-gate and extremely informative. Anexcellent place to start gathering ideasfor your trip.
• Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com): If you’vedecided to fly with Aer Lingus, bookyour ticket here. While we don’tendorse any single airline over another,Aer Lingus’s site is exceptional in thatit always offers its lowest fares online.
• Irelandhotels.com (www.irelandhotels.com): What catapults thisaccommodations database ahead ofthe raft of hotel-finding sites is its“detailed search” function. Gottahave a gym? Need to find a babysit-ter? Want an in-room dataport forchecking your e-mail? No problem.Just plug in your requirements, andthe site will spit out a list of hotelsand guesthouses that fit the bill.
• AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie): Planning on driving in Ireland?The route-planning feature of theIrish Automobile Association’s site isbrilliantly simple. Plug in your start-ing point and destination, and you’llget very detailed directions. You can
even tell the database to avoid motor-ways and toll roads.
• Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainment.ie): This handy, exhaus-tive, searchable database includes justabout every event in Ireland, frommuseum exhibitions to rock concertsto hot new plays to nightclub themenights. And it includes well-writtenreviews of them all to boot.
• Irish Family History Foundation(www.irishroots.net): This compre-hensive genealogy resource containsdocumentation from all 32 countieson the island. Much of the archivedinformation is free for your perusal,and you can also hire researchers todo the work for you.
• Newshound (www.nuzhound.com):Hands down, the best single resourcefor keeping up to date on NorthernIreland. It’s a vast, searchable libraryof news articles about developmentsin the North, including a terrifictimeline of key events in the “Trou-bles.” In addition, there’s an impres-sive array of articles on the Republic,including travel and dining reviews.
2 The Best Picture-Postcard Irish Towns• Dalkey (County Dublin): This
charming south-coast suburb ofDublin enjoys both easy access to thecity and freedom from its snarls andfrenzy. It has a castle, an island, amountaintop folly, and a few parks,all in ample miniature. With all the
fine and simple restaurants, pubs, andshops anyone needs for a brief visit ora long stay, Dalkey is a tempting townto settle into. See “Easy Excursionsfrom Dublin,” in chapter 5.
• Carlingford (County Louth): Whata pleasant surprise in lackluster
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Louth: a charming, tiny medieval village with castle ruins right on thebay; excellent eateries; and pedes-trian-friendly lanes filled with color-ful shops, cafes, and pubs. See“County Louth: Where CuchulainnWalked,” in chapter 6.
• Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nestledin the Nore River valley, cupped in thesoft palm of rounded hills, this idyllicriverfront village with two spaciousgreens and a collection of pleasantcafes and pubs is among the most pho-tographed Irish towns. Pronounced“In-ish-teeg,” it was the backdrop forthe film Circle of Friends. It attractshosts of anglers, because fish invari-ably show good taste and love thisplace. See “Kilkenny City & Envi-rons,” in chapter 7.
• Kilkenny (County Kilkenny):Slightly larger than a small town(locals like to think it a city, so that’swhat we call it) but terribly picture-postcard nonetheless, Kilkenny mayoffer the best surviving Irish exampleof a medieval town. The walls, thesplendidly restored castle, and therenowned design center (housed inthe castle stables) draw visitors fromIreland and abroad. Kilkenny, how-ever, is no museum. Many regard it asperhaps the most attractive largetown in Ireland. See “Kilkenny City& Environs,” in chapter 7.
• Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’snarrow streets all lead to the sea,dropping steeply from the hills thatrim the beautiful harbor. This is
undoubtedly one of Ireland’s mostpicturesque towns, but the visitorswho crowd the streets every summerattest to the fact that the secret is out.The walk from Kinsale through Scillyto Charles Fort and Frower Point isbreathtaking. Kinsale has the addedbenefit of being a foodie town, withno shortage of good restaurants. See“Kinsale,” in chapter 9.
• Kenmare (County Kerry): If you’redriving the Ring of Kerry, this is themost charming base camp you couldwish for. The “little nest” has ablessed location at the mouth of theRiver Roughty on Kenmare Bay, andit’s loaded to the gills with flowerboxes, enchanting shops, and placesto eat. See “The Iveragh Peninsula,”in chapter 10.
• Adare (County Limerick): Like a per-fect little medieval town plucked froma children’s book, Adare is a bastion ofthatched cottages, black-and-whitetimbered houses, lichen-coveredchurches, and romantic ruins, allstrewn along the banks of the RiverMaigue. See “Limerick City & Envi-rons,” in chapter 11.
• Westport (County Mayo): It’s nevera surprise in Ireland when someonesays Westport is his favorite town—it’s small and bursting. Someday itmight explode into a city, but for nowWestport remains a hyperactive townthat somehow manages to be asfriendly and welcoming as a village.See “County Mayo,” in chapter 11.
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3 The Best Tiny Seaside Villages• Ardmore (County Waterford): Ard-
more is best known for its complex ofmedieval ruins, including a beautifulround tower and a chapel with aremarkable set of carvings on its gable.The town itself clusters around asandy bay between craggy headlands.
See “Waterford City & CountyWaterford,” in chapter 7.
• Dunfanaghy (County Donegal):Outstanding beaches and coastalscenery are within walking distanceof this resort town on Ireland’s north-ern coast. Don’t miss the Horn Head
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Drive, or the traditional music thatbursts into spontaneous life mostnights in Dunfanaghy or nearby Fal-carragh. See “The Atlantic High-lands,” in chapter 14.
• Glencolumbkille (County Donegal):Modern conveniences, such as electric-ity, came only recently to this village on a tiny cove amid the mountains of
southwest Donegal, and there’s still asense of stepping back in time whenyou enter some of the local pubs andshops. Don’t miss the GlencolumbkilleFolk Park, which preserves the past in areconstructed village of thatched cot-tages. See “The Donegal Bay Coast,”in chapter 14.
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4 The Best Free Attractions & Open Sites• National Museum of Ireland
(Dublin): This is where the nationkeeps most of its archaeological treas-ures: the Ardagh Chalice, the TaraBrooch, the Cross of Cong. There’sno better place to get in touch withDublin’s past, from the first Vikingsettlement to the Easter Rising of1916. On the same block are the(also free) National Gallery and Nat-ural History Museum. See p. 143.
• Trinity College (Dublin): Althoughyou do have to pay to enter the OldLibrary, where the renowned Book ofKells is on display, the rest of this his-toric campus is free and open for youto explore. As soon as you passthrough the gates, you leave thenoises of the city behind and enteranother world. Watch a cricket matchin the College Park, and strollthrough the college’s cobbled squares.See chapter 5.
• Kells (County Kilkenny): This prioryand fortified town is one of Ireland’smost spectacular medieval ruins.Because there’s no visitor center,you’re on your own to explore and tointerpret what you see; a small bookavailable at the town post office offersassistance with the interpretation. See“Kilkenny City & Environs,” inchapter 7.
• Athassel Priory (County Tipperary):The largest medieval priory in Ireland,
Athassel spreads in ruins over 1.6hectares (4 acres). Although it’s not aswell preserved as Kells, there’s still a lotto explore, and the picturesque stonesare sure to excite your imagination.Rarely visited, it’s in the middle of a field, on a quiet back road nearCashel. See p. 249.
• Black Fort (County Galway): Thedramatic 67m-long (220-ft.) wall ofthis promontory fort cuts off accessto a small peninsula on Inishmor.The site is spectacular, and the defen-sive field of sharp stones that makesup its front yard is well worth negoti-ating. See p. 425.
• Carrowkeel (County Sligo): Eerilyisolated atop several steep hills, andconnected by sight with nearbyMaeve’s Tomb atop Knocknarea andthe Neolithic tombs of Carrowmore,this collection of passage tombs isamong the earliest surviving recordsof Ireland’s prehistoric peoples. Avisit here is an experience not to bemissed. See p. 446.
• Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge(County Antrim): Each spring, localfishermen put up this open ropebridge spanning a chasm 18m (60 ft.)wide and 24m (80 ft.) above the seabetween the mainland and a smallisland. It makes for a thrilling walk ifyou don’t fear heights. See p. 533.
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5 The Best Active Vacations• Hiking in the Galtee Mountains:
The gentle contours of Tipperary’sGaltees offer the perfect scenic back-drop for trail riding. Kilmaneen Farm-house, a commodious B&B with anexcellent hiking program, will provideall you need for a trekking holiday. See“Easy Excursions into South Tipper-ary,” in chapter 7.
• Sea Kayaking in West Cork: Withhundreds of islands, numerous invit-ing inlets, and a plethora of sea caves,the coast of West Cork is a seakayaker’s paradise. In Castletownbereon the Beara Peninsula, Beara Out-door Pursuits (& 027/70692; www.seakayakingwestcork.com) specializesin accompanied trips out and around
Bere Island and as far as Glengariff.See “West Cork,” in chapter 9.
• Bicycling in the Southwest: Thepeninsulas and islands of Cork andKerry are perfect for cycling, with lowtraffic and an abundance of beautifulplaces to visit. Roycroft’s Stores inSkibbereen, County Cork (p. 307),rent bikes that are a notch above theusual rental equipment. See chapter 9.
• Walking the Donegal Coast: Thecliff-rimmed headlands of Donegalare the most spectacular in Ireland,and the best way to explore them ison foot. Among the finest walks areSlieve League, Glen Head, and HornHead. See chapter 14.
6 The Best Beaches• Raven Point (County Wexford): The
Raven Nature Reserve, just north ofWexford Harbour, is a place of foresteddunes and uncrowded beaches. Duringthe winter and spring, a large popula-tion of migratory wildfowl makes itstemporary home here. See p. 230.
• Barleycove Beach (County Cork):Barleycove is an inlet at the tip ofMizen Head, a place of great ruggedbeauty. Despite some development inthe form of a hotel and trailer park,the beach doesn’t get too crowded,and it is a great place to walk orswim. See p. 307.
• Inch Strand, Kilmurray Bay, andTrabeg Beach (all County Kerry):The Dingle Peninsula delivers someof the most drop-dead-gorgeousbeaches in the country. When DavidLean filmed parts of Ryan’s Daughteron Inch Strand, he said it was themost beautiful place he’d ever seen.See p. 345.
• Lahinch (County Clare): Overlook-ing a wide-as-the-eye-can-see expanse
of sand in a horseshoe bay, there’s anold-fashioned promenade with ice-cream stalls, surf shops, and summervendors—in short, one of Ireland’squaintest seaside resorts. See p. 371.
• Portacloy (County Mayo): With acurving crescent of white sand, atranquil bay, and a fleet of divingcormorants, this beach is a gem that(surprisingly) doesn’t draw largecrowds. It is strikingly rural andshimmers a silky aquamarine amidstsheep fields and a cluster of farm cot-tages. Come here for a spectacularcliffside walk as well as a refreshingdip. See p. 396.
• Trabane Strand (County Donegal):Donegal has some of the most beau-tiful stretches of unpopulated beachin Ireland, and Trabane Strand nearDunfanaghy is a prime example. Youhave to be willing to walk, as thereisn’t road access, but on a fine day astroll on this glorious expanse of seasand, with the cliffs of Horn Head onthe horizon, will amply reward the
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effort. As for swimming in thesechilly northern waters, it’s best to
leave that to the seals and the trulycourageous. See p. 472.
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7 The Best Natural Wonders• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (County
Kerry): One of several mountainranges on the Iveragh Peninsula,MacGillycuddy’s Reeks boasts Carran-tuohill, at 1,037m (3,404 ft.) the high-est mountain in Ireland. Whethergazed at from afar or explored up closeon foot, the Reeks are among Ireland’sgreatest spectacles. See p. 336.
• The Burren (County Clare): TheBurren (from the Irish Boireann,meaning “a rocky place”) is one of thestrangest landscapes you’re ever likelyto see: a vast limestone grasslandspread with a quilt of wildflowers. Itsinhabitants include the pine martenand nearly every species of butterflyfound in Ireland. See p. 371.
• The Cliffs of Moher (County Clare):Rising from Hag’s Head to the south,these magnificent sea cliffs reach theirfull height of 232m (760 ft.) just northof O’Brien’s Tower. The views of theopen sea, of the distant Aran Islands,and of the Twelve Bens of Connemaraare spectacular. A walk south along thecliff edge at sunset makes a perfect endto any day. See p. 379.
• Croagh Patrick (County Mayo): Ris-ing steeply 762m (2,500 ft.) above theMayo coast, Croagh Patrick is Ireland’sholiest mountain, where Patrick is said to have retreated in penance. The place is biblically imposing. The viewfrom above can be breathtaking ornonexistent, as clouds often wrap the
summit, adding to its mystery. See p. 390.
• The Twelve Bens (County Galway):Amid Connemara’s central mountains,bogs, and lakes rises a rugged rangeknown as the Twelve Bens, crowning alandscape that is among the most spec-tacular in Ireland. Among the peaksthemselves, some are bare and rocky,while others are clothed in peat. Theloftiest of the Bens, Benbaun, reaches730m (2,395 ft.) and lies inside theConnemara National Park. See “Con-nemara,” in chapter 13.
• Slieve League (County Donegal): TheSlieve League peninsula stretches for48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic andis 19km (12 miles) across at its widestpoint. Its wonderfully pigmented cliffsare the highest sea cliffs in Europe, andare visible from Carrigan Head or asyou walk along them, if you dare.From below or above, Slieve Leagueserves up some of the most dazzlingsights in Ireland. See p. 467.
• The Giant’s Causeway (CountyAntrim): In case you lose count,roughly 40,000 tightly packed andmostly hexagonal basalt columns aresaid to comprise the giant FinnMcCool’s path from the Antrim head-land into the sea toward the Scottishisland of Staffa. This volcanic wonder,formed 60 million years ago, can bemarveled at from a distance or negoti-ated cautiously on foot. See p. 534.
8 The Best Castles• Cahir Castle (County Tipperary):
One of the largest of Ireland’s castles,Cahir is in an extraordinary state ofpreservation. Tours explain some fasci-nating features of the castle’s military
architecture, and you’re free to roamthrough a maze of tiny chambers, spiral staircases, and vertiginous battle-ments. See p. 249.
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• Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny):Although parts of the castle date tothe 13th century, the existing struc-ture has the feel of an 18th-centurypalace. There have been many modi-fications since medieval times,including the addition of beautifullandscaping. See p. 261.
• Blarney Castle (County Cork):Despite the mobs of visitors thatbesiege the castle daily, this majestictower house is worth a visit. Whileyou’re here, check out the BadgerCave and dungeons at the tower’sbase, as well as the serpentine pathsthat wind through the castle gardens,set in a picturesque rocky glen. Needwe mention the Stone? You sidle inunder the upper wall with your headhanging over a 10-story drop, andthere it is. You kiss it. It’s a thing peo-ple do. See p. 285.
• Charles Fort (County Cork):Located on a promontory in stun-ning Kinsale Harbor, the fort’s mas-sive walls enclose a complex array ofbuildings in varying states of repair.At the entrance, you’re handed a map
and then left on your own to explore,discover, and almost certainly get lostin the maze of courtyards, passages,walls, and barracks. See p. 292.
• Parke’s Castle (County Leitrim):Once an important citadel in thispart of the country, the masterfullyrestored castle commands great views over Lough Gill. Exhibitsdemonstrate the life and activities ofcastle inhabitants, and the tea shopserves up some admirable pastries.See p. 449.
• Carrickfergus Castle (CountyAntrim): This fortress on the bank ofBelfast Lough is the best-preservedNorman castle in Ireland. It consistsof an imposing tower house and highwall punctuated by corner towers.See p. 525.
• Dunluce Castle (County Antrim):The castle ruins stand atop a razor-sharp promontory jutting into thesea. This was no doubt a highlydefensible setting, and the castle wasn’t abandoned until a large sectioncollapsed and fell into the breakersone day in 1639. See p. 533.
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9 The Best of Ancient Ireland• Newgrange (County Meath): Poised
atop a low hill north of the RiverBoyne, Newgrange is the centerpieceof a dramatic megalithic cemeterydating from more than 5,000 yearsago. Archaeological speculation is thatthis massive, heart-shaped moundand passage tomb were constructed asa communal vault to house the cre-mated remains of the dead. Thetomb’s narrow passage is so perfectlyaligned that the central chamber, deepwithin the mound, is marvelouslyilluminated at each year’s winter sol-stice. See p. 210.
• Loughcrew (County Meath): At thislittle-known site, not far from New-grange, a series of cruciform passage
tombs crowns two hills. On the easthill, visitors can take a tour (summeronly) or admit themselves with a key.Better yet, hike up the west hill to asecond, more solitary series of tombs,where the connections between ruinand imaginative reconstruction arethe ones you make. See p. 210.
• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of rit-ual significance from the Stone Ageto the Christian period, Tara has seenit all and kept it all a secret. This wasthe traditional center and seat of Ire-land’s high kings, who could look outfrom here and survey their realm.Although it’s only 156m (512 ft.)above sea level, from the Tara hill youcan see each of Ireland’s four Celtic
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provinces on a clear day. The site ismostly unexcavated and tells its storyin whispers. It’s a place to walkslowly, with an imagination steepedin Ireland’s past. See p. 209.
• Lough Gur (County Limerick): Thisfascinating lakefront archaeologicalsite will convince you that theNeolithic farmers of Ireland had anestimable sense of real estate. Inhab-ited for more than 4,000 years, thisancient farming settlement offers anumber of prehistoric remains, themost impressive of which is thelargest surviving stone circle in Ire-land, consisting of 113 stones. Accessto the site is free, so bypass the lack-luster museum and explore on yourown. See entry for Lough Gur VisitorCentre (p. 365).
• Dun Aengus (County Galway): Noone knows who built this massivestone fort, or when. The eminentarchaeologist George Petrie calledDun Aengus “the most magnificentbarbaric monument in Europe.” Fac-ing the sea, where its three stone rings
meet steep 61m (200-ft.) cliffs, DunAengus stands guard over the south-ern coast of the island of Inishmor,the largest of the Arans. See p. 424.
• Carrowmore and Carrowkeel(County Sligo): Located on the Cool-era Peninsula, these two megalithiccities of the dead may have once con-tained well over 200 passage tombs.The two together—Carrowmore in avalley and Carrowkeel atop a nearbymountain—convey an unequaledsense of the scale and wonder of theancient megalithic people’s reverencefor the dead. Carrowmore is well pre-sented and interpreted, while Car-rowkeel is left to itself and to thosewho seek it out. See p. 449 and 446.
• Legananny Dolmen (CountyDown): This impressive granite dol-men (Neolithic tomb) on the southernslope of Slieve Croob is one of the most photographed dolmens inIreland. The massive capstone seemsalmost weightlessly poised on its threesupporting uprights. See p. 527.
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10 Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins• Glendalough (County Wicklow):
Nestled in “the glen of the two lakes,”this important monastic settlementwas founded in the 6th century by St.Kevin. Its setting is disarmingly sce-nic—exactly the opposite of theharsh environment you’d expect asce-tic medieval monks to have soughtout. Although quite remote, Glen-dalough suffered numerous assaultsby the Vikings and the English, and iteventually dwindled into insignifi-cance. Today, its picturesque ruinscollude with the countryside to createone of the loveliest spots in Ireland.See p. 186.
• The Rock of Cashel (County Tipper-ary): In both appearance and name(cashel or caiseal means “fortress” in
Irish), “the Rock” suggests a citadel, aplace more familiar with power thanwith prayer. Physically, it is a huge out-cropping—or, rather, upcropping—oflimestone topped with some of themost spectacular ruins in Ireland,including what was once the country’sfinest Romanesque chapel. Socially, theplace was the seat of clerics and kings,a center to rival Tara. Now, however,the two sites vie only for tourists. See p. 250.
• Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny):Jerpoint is perhaps the finest repre-sentative of the many Cistercianabbeys whose ruins dot the Irishlandscape. Visitors are drawn to Jer-point’s splendid cloister, the mostrichly carved in Ireland, and its
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impressive tomb sculptures. Theabbey’s tower is the tallest of its kindin Ireland. See p. 258.
• Skellig Michael (County Kerry):This stunning crag of rock, dedicatedto the Archangel Michael, stands13km (8 miles) offshore from theIveragh Peninsula and rises sharply218m (714 ft.) out of the Atlantic.Early Irish monks in pursuit of self-imposed hardship and exile chose thisspot to build their austere hermitage.Today, the journey to Skellig acrosschoppy seas and the arduous climb toits summit are challenging and unfor-gettable. See p. 320.
• Inishmurray (County Sligo): Thisuninhabited island nearly 6.5km (4miles) off the Sligo coast is home to astriking monastic complex, sur-rounded by what appear to be the wallsof an even more ancient stone fort.Despite its remoteness, this outpost of
peace-seeking monks was a target ofthe Vikings, who destroyed it in A.D.802. Today, its circular ruins and thesurrounding sea present a stunningsight, well worth the effort required toreach it. See p. 447.
• Clonmacnois (County Offaly): Thiswas once one of Ireland’s most impor-tant religious, artistic, and literarycenters, a place of pilgrimage and highculture. Founded in the mid–5th cen-tury at the axis of the Shannon Riverand the medieval east–west thorough-fare known as the Eiscir Riada, Clon-macnois thrived for centuries until itsprime riverfront location nearlyproved its undoing. In the 830s,Vikings sailed up the Shannon fromLimerick and brought havoc thatreturned many times in the ensuingcenturies. Today, even in ruins, Clon-macnois remains a place of peculiarbeauty and serenity. See p. 494.
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11 The Best Literary Spots• Newman House (Dublin): Cardinal
John Henry Newman was the firstrector of the Catholic University inDublin, housed in two buildings onSt. Stephen’s Green in the center ofthe city’s south side, and worked inthat capacity from 1852 to his retire-ment in 1859. The Catholic Univer-sity later became University CollegeDublin, where Gerard Manley Hop-kins arrived in 1884, as a professor ofGreek; after 5 years of teaching here,Hopkins died at the age of 44. JamesJoyce studied here from 1899 to1902. See p. 148.
• Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin):Besides being the setting for part of thesixth episode of Ulysses, this is the rest-ing place of Joyce’s parents and severalother members of his family. TheEnglish-born poet Gerard ManleyHopkins is also buried here, in theJesuit plot. Maud Gonne, the Irish
nationalist and longtime Dublin resi-dent who is said to have inspired Yeats’splay Cathleen ní Houlihan, is buriedin the Republican plot. See p. 150.
• North Dublin: The streets north ofthe Liffey are home to many of thecharacters in James Joyce’s stories andnovels; Joyce lived in this part ofDublin and had a special affinity forit. Much has changed since Joyce’stime, and Bloom’s house at 7 EcclesSt. has been replaced by a new wingof the Mater Private Hospital, butmany mementos of the city as it wasin 1904 survive. Tours of the areabegin from the James Joyce Centre.See “Seeing the Sights,” in chapter 5.
• County Sligo: It seems at times thatevery hill, house, and lake in thecounty is signposted to note its rela-tion to the poet W. B. Yeats, whosewriting was informed by the land-scape, mythology, and people of this
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region. Many of the natural and his-toric monuments of Sligo appear inYeats’s poetry, including Lough Gill,Glencar Lake, Benbulben Mountain,and Maeve’s tomb atop KnocknareaMountain. There are also severalmuseums housing first editions, pho-tographs, and other memorabilia,and of course Yeats’s grave in Drum-cliffe. See “Sligo & Yeats Country,” inchapter 14.
• The Aran Islands: John MillingtonSynge set his play Riders to the Sea onInishmaan and wrote an account of lifeon the islands titled simply The AranIslands. Native islander Liam O’Fla-herty, known for his novel Famine, isfrom the island of Inishmor. See “TheAran Islands: Inishmor & Inisheer,” inchapter 13.
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12 The Best Gardens• Powerscourt Gardens (County Wick-
low): This is one of the most grandioseof Irish gardens, set amidst the naturalsplendor of the northern WicklowHills, yet it’s only 19km (12 miles)from Dublin. The gardens and nearbywaterfall make a great day’s outing anda welcome respite from the noise andcongestion of the city. See p. 191.
• Kilruddery House & Gardens(County Wicklow): A grandiose for-mal garden whose initial plan waslaid out in the 17th century, Killrud-dery draws its appeal from places likethe beech hedge pond and the orna-mental dairy. The house is also full ofcurious treasures. See p. 191.
• Butterstream Gardens (CountyMeath): Butterstream is renownedfor its splendor in spring and sum-mer. It is a series of delightful gardencompartments whose variety atteststo the skill of its designer, JimReynolds. His manipulation of floralcolor and texture yields spectacularresults, from an austere white gardento the floral fireworks of brilliantherbaceous borders. See p. 209.
• Altamount Gardens (County Car-low): Altamount is a sumptuous gar-den. Lush plantings set up a sequenceleading from a formal garden to arugged forest, rock-walled glen, andriverbank walk. See p. 189.
• Creagh Gardens (County Cork):Meandering paths lead the visitorpast a sequence of exquisite vistaswith many hidden corners to explore.The garden sits on a beautiful estuary.See p. 304.
• Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferryconveys visitors from a lovely, rhodo-dendron-rimmed bay in the town ofGlangarriff to Garinish Island, theunlikely site of a fine Italianate gar-den. The formal garden, with theCasita at its center, connects to a“wild garden” that showcases a collec-tion of rhododendrons, azaleas, andrare trees. See p. 305.
• Heywood Garden (County Laois):Heywood is one of just four gardens inIreland designed by English architectEdward Lutyens. Its rows of lime trees,tall iron fountain, and walled gardencreate a tranquil enclave in a country-side that is already calm, green, andsoft. The house for which Heywoodwas built has burned down; the gar-den recalls its elegance. See p. 497.
• Mount Stewart House (CountyDown): This 18th-century house onthe eastern shore of Strangford Loughmay be noteworthy for its art collec-tion, but it’s the world-class gardens,with their unrivaled collection of rareand unusual plants, that have earnedit a nomination as a potential WorldHeritage Site. See p. 527.
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13 The Best Attractions for the Whole Family• The Ark: A Cultural Centre for
Children (County Dublin): Aunique chance for kids to have ahands-on learning experience in art,music, and theater through workshopsessions with artists. There are alsoexcellent theater productions for fam-ilies. See p. 151.
• Dublin’s Viking Adventure (CountyDublin): This is a fun learning experi-ence where kids can travel back in timeand be part of Viking life with “realVikings” while working and interact-ing in a model Norse town on theactual site where the Vikings madetheir home in Dublin. See p. 152.
• Dublin Zoo (County Dublin): Kidslove this 12-hectare (30-acre) zoo,with its array of creatures, animal-petting corner, and train ride. Thesurrounding park has room to run,picnic, and explore for hours (ordays!). See p. 153.
• Irish National Heritage Park(County Wexford): Nearly 9,000years of Irish history come alive herein ways that will fascinate visitors ofevery age. The whole family will becaptivated by the story of ancient Ire-land, from its first inhabitants to itsNorman conquerors. See p. 221.
• Fota Island Wildlife Park &Arboretum (County Cork): This isn’tany ordinary zoo. Wherever possible,the animals roam free with no obvi-ous barriers, mixed with other speciesand with human visitors. Rare and
endangered animals have the run of16 hectares (40 acres) of grassland. Acoffee shop, a small amusement parkfor young children, a tour train, pic-nic tables, and a gift shop are on thegrounds. See p. 301.
• Muckross House & Gardens(County Kerry): This stunning Vic-torian mansion with exquisite gar-dens is also home to skilled artisans atwork. Nearby is a series of recon-structed traditional farms, completewith animals and docents, providinga gateway to rural Ireland as it was forcenturies. See p. 331.
• Fungie the Dolphin Tours (CountyKerry): Every day, fishing boats ferryvisitors out into Dingle Bay to seeFungie, the friendliest dolphin you’reever likely to meet. Fungie really doesswim up to the boat, and the boat-men stay out long enough for amplesightings. You can even arrange anearly-morning dolphin swim. See p. 345.
• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park(County Clare): Kids are enthralledby this great restored medieval castleand re-created 19th-century village.It’s complete with a school andloaded with active craftspeople. See p. 372.
• Marble Arch Caves (County Fer-managh): Adventurous families travelby boat through well-lit undergroundwaterways to explore caves and viewamazing stone formations. See p. 561.
14 The Best Pubs• Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): A
short outing from Dublin center, theAbbey Tavern is the perfect place torecover and refuel after exploringHowth Head, Ireland’s Eye, and theattractive fishing and yachting villageof Howth on the northern tip of
Dublin Bay. The Abbey is known farand wide for its ballads as well as itsbrew. See p. 174.
• Brazen Head (County Dublin):Nearly qualifying as one of Ireland’sancient sites, the Brazen Head, com-missioned by Charles II, is more than
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300 years old, and its stout is as freshas it comes. Among its illustriousalums are Wolfe Tone, Daniel O’Con-nell, and Robert Emmet, who plannedthe Dublin rising of 1803 under theHead’s low timbers. In fact, Emmetwas hanged not far from here wheneverything went wrong. See p. 169.
• The Long Valley (County Cork): Foranyone who knows and loves Cork,this is a place of pilgrimage—oneendless, low-slung room with a barrunning its full length; doors takenfrom an ocean liner; barmen in whitebutchers’ coats; and a selection ofdelectable sandwiches. A little slice ofheaven. See p. 289.
• An Bodhran (County Cork): Ahangout for UCC (University Col-lege Cork) students serious abouttheir traditional music and stout, AnBodhran has a lot of old-style charac-ter, which recent renovations haveonly enhanced. See p. 288.
• McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin, adot of a town on the Clare Coast, is amagnet for traditional Irish musi-cians—and consequently a wonderfulspot to hear impromptu sessions ofIrish music. Gus O’Connor’s, downthe road, is more famous but alsothicker with tourists; McGann’s
remains the genuine article withoutthe hype. See p. 384.
• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (CountyGalway): Famed for its seafood, thiscenturies-old thatched-cottage pubon the weir also draws a perfect pint.This may well be the oyster capital ofIreland. It’s 19km (12 miles) out ofGalway and well worth the drive—orthe walk, for that matter. See p. 422.
• Smuggler’s Creek (County Done-gal): This place would be worth astop just for its spectacular clifftopviews of Donegal Bay. Stone walls,beamed ceilings, open fires, excellentfare, and the brew that’s true areamong the charms proprietor ConorBritton has on tap. See p. 465.
• Hargadon’s (County Sligo): This isthe epitome of the Irish pub. Conver-sation and the gentle sipping ofGuinness reign supreme: No televi-sions, radios, or stereos disrupt anatmosphere of quiet enjoymenthoned over more than 100 years ofpulling pints. See p. 453.
• Crown Liquor Saloon (CountyAntrim): This National Trust pub,across from the Grand Opera Housein Belfast, is a Victorian gem. Yourmouth will drop open at its antiquepublican splendor even before you liftyour first pint. See p. 522.
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15 The Best Restaurants You Can Afford• Aya @ Brown Thomas (County
Dublin; & 01/677-1544): Thisbuzzy, fashionable annex to Dublin’sposhest department store (it’s justacross the street on Clarendon St.) isvery much a good-time destination forchic Dubliners, with its conveyor-beltsushi bar. Bypass the tables, where thea la carte menu is pricier, and headstraight for the bar for afternoon“Happy Time” specials. See p. 129.
• Juice (County Dublin; & 01/475-7856): It started as a vegetarian’s
hangout, but the wonderful foodsoon made Juice a favorite of hipsterswho simply like to eat well. Yummycoffees, fresh-squeezed juices, organicwines, and late weekend hours add tothe allure of this modern, casualeatery. See p. 130.
• Mimo Cafe (County Dublin; & 01/674-6712): This chic little cafe in thetony Powerscourt Townhouse mini-mall is a wonderfully classy and sur-prisingly budget-minded place tostop for terrific salads, pasta dishes,
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and inventive sandwiches. A pianoplayer is a civilized touch on Thursdayand Friday afternoons. See p. 131.
• Adele’s (County Cork; & 028/28459): This unassuming eatery onMain Street in Schull is a bakery dur-ing the day, serving great sandwichesof herbed Italian bread and deliciouslocal cheese. The real revelationcomes in the evening, when the mealsare simple and astonishingly good.See p. 314.
• Purple Heather (County Kerry; & 064/41016): This lovely littleeatery is the place to lunch in charm-ing Kenmare. The food is all abouttearoom classics with a gourmettwist: wild smoked salmon or prawnsalad, smoked trout pâté, vegetarianomelets, and Irish cheese platters, aswell as homemade soups. See p. 327.
• Da Tang Noodle House (CountyGalway; & 091/561443): Spicy,spicy, spicy. This is where the Galwaylocals slip in for a quick bite. Steam-ing bowls of noodles are spiked withcilantro and chile, and you won’twant to put down your chopsticksuntil you’ve slurped up every bit. Seep. 410.
• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (CountyGalway; & 091/796113): A shortdrive from Galway center, thisseafood mecca is worth a drive fromDublin. For six generations, theMorans have focused on what theyknow and do best, and they have amenu—the same menu, all day everyday, featuring seafood and nothingbut—that brings the point home.You may not find better oysters andsalmon anywhere, and surely not atthese prices. See p. 422.
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16 Where to Forget Your Budget: The Best Places to Eat• One Pico (County Dublin; & 01/
676-0300): Eamonn O’Reilly’s flag-ship venture is a sophisticated,grownup, classy place with excellentservice and fantastic food. Expect sur-prising combinations of tastes andtextures, and a very memorable meal.See p. 133.
• The Motte (County Kilkenny): Slowdelectation is the requirement at theMotte. Everything demands it—fromthe dimly glowing dining room to thethoughtful staff to the exquisitelyprepared food. Chef Alan Walton’sconcoctions of cream and fresh herbsand rich dark chocolate desserts defyspeed, making a delicious, lingeringevening the only real possibility. Seep. 269.
• Jacob’s on the Mall (County Cork; & 021/425-1530): Housed in whatwas once the city’s old Turkish bath-house, this eatery, which showcases
Mercy Fenton’s confident, harmo-nious cooking, is the talk of the town.The place is truly lovely, with tall win-dows that flood the dining room withlight. See p. 281.
• The Chart House (County Kerry; & 066/915-2255): In this invitingbistro, everyone comes for LauraBoyce’s confident, simple cooking.Think wonderful comfort food witha flair—the kind of food you nevertire of. See p. 351.
• Brown’s Bar and Brasserie (CountyDerry; & 028/7134-5180): Behindthe unassuming exterior of thisWaterside-area row house, you willfind some of the finest food in DerryCity. The innovative menu blends thebest of modern Irish, Italian, andThai influences with an emphasis onfresh and, when possible, organicingredients. See p. 553.
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17 The Best B&Bs• Lennoxbrook Country House
(County Meath; & 046/45902):Lennoxbrook is a thoughtful, well-crafted place. The rooms are beauti-ful, with bay windows overlooking atangled forest and a magnificentbeech tree. Guests are invited to pullup a chair in the Mullan family’s sit-ting room. See p. 212.
• Buggy’s Glencairn Inn (CountyWaterford; & 058/56232): Ken andCathleen Buggy have an incredibletalent for getting the details right.Their guest rooms are chock-full ofcovetable auction finds; the beds arelike something out of a fairy tale; andthe restaurant is a foodie’s destinationin itself. See p. 245.
• Ballinatona Farm (County Cork):Set in a quiet and underrated cornerof West Cork, this modern farm-house commands astonishing viewsof the surrounding hills. Jytte Stormand Tim Lane, the energetic and out-going hosts, will direct you to theCoomeenatrush Waterfall and otherbeautiful spots within walking dis-tance of the house. See p. 310.
• The Captain’s House (County Kerry;& 066/915-1531): You won’t getbetter value for the money in Dingle.Jim and Mary Milhench own and runthis friendly, dapper little B&B smackin the middle of town. Everythinghere is done with an eye for orderly,shipshape detail, and the breakfastsare outstanding. See p. 348.
• Rosturk Woods (County Mayo; & 098/36264): Though it’s welllocated on the road between Newportand Achill Island, you won’t realizehow close it is to the sea until youreach the end of the long driveway.
Rooms are spacious, prettily deco-rated, and comfortable, with king-size beds and power showers in thebathrooms. See p. 397.
• Bruckless House (County Donegal;& 074/973-7071): This mid-18th-century farmhouse, restored withimpeccable taste, has many charms,including award-winning gardensand a stable of Connemara ponies.Spacious, welcoming, and comfort-able, Bruckless House feels like home(or better) after only a very shorttime. See p. 469.
• Rhu-Gorse (County Donegal; & 074/972-1685): The views ofLough Eske from this eminentlycomfortable modern guesthouse arenot to be believed. If you have themakings of a convert to Donegal, itwill happen here. See p. 460.
• Ross Castle and House (CountyCavan; & 049/854-0237): A towerroom in a centrally heated, hauntedcastle—with what’s likely the longestbathtub you’ve ever seen—awaits youat Ross Castle. It won’t take too big abite out of your wallet, either. Itmight not be elegant, but it isunquestionably memorable. Warm,comfortable Ross Castle and nearbyRoss House are great places to relaxbeside Lough Sheelin, a noteworthysource of trout and pike. See p. 502.
• Slieve Croob Inn (County Down; & 028/4377-1412): Whether youwant to drop anchor and set up ahome away from home in a self-cater-ing cottage or just spend a night in amagically stunning landscape, itdoesn’t get much better than this per-fectly tasteful hideaway in the magi-cal Mournes. See p. 542.
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18 Where to Forget Your Budget: The Best Places to Stay• Molesworth Court Suites (County
Dublin; & 01/676-4799): Hatehotels? Then consider an apartment.Molesworth Court is 5 minutes onfoot from Stephens Green and yet iscountry quiet. These tastefully deco-rated, comfortable apartments offereverything you need to set up yourown base in Dublin, whether for anight or a week. See p. 120.
• Ballinkeele House (County Wex-ford; & 053/38105): This grandIrish manor B&B, built in 1840 andin the Maher family for four genera-tions now, is a wonderful place toappreciate Irish country-house living.Rooms are old-fashioned in thegrandest way, with four-poster orhalf-tester beds and period toucheseverywhere. See p. 232.
• Iskeroon (County Kerry; 066/947-5119): David and GeraldineHare’s wonderfully light, CapeCod–style B&B occupies an arrest-ingly beautiful setting in a 1.8-hectare (41⁄2-acre) tropical gardenoverlooking the sailboats of Derry-nane Harbour and the Skelligsbeyond. It’s the best of both worlds:tranquil and yet just a short walkfrom the beach, a lovely pub, or the
pier (for island cruises). Breakfasts areexcellent, too. See p. 324.
• Delphi Lodge (County Galway; & 095/42222): This was once thecountry hideaway for the marquis ofSligo, and now it can be yours, too.Inside, the emphasis is on clean,bright simplicity in perfect taste; out-side, the grounds and environs areamong the most beautiful in Ireland.Tranquillity, comfort, and fishing arethe operative words here. By renting acottage for a week or more, you canmake this indulgence more afford-able. See p. 438.
• Temple House (County Sligo; & 071/918-3329): The house sits onthe shores of Temple House Lake, onan estate of some 400 hectares (1,000acres), with a gorgeous walled gardenand elaborate coach houses. SandyPercival’s family has lived in TempleHouse for more than 300 years, andSandy has many a story to tell of theirexploits. The evening meal, preparedby Deborah Percival, is a memorableexperience. The atmosphere of casualelegance and affable unpretentious-ness is truly seductive, and chancesare you’ll want to spend more than 1night. See p. 452.
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